Dave I grew up watching Stacey David Sunday morning. My brother and I would watch every weekend. I now watch your videos on the weekend with two boys. We have been very slowly working on our 1975 f100 lack of cash and time you know life. Thanks for the videos
Same, loved his programs. That guy is very talented. Dave, you are also very talented. Keep it up, you give me hope and you seem like such an awesome man. Wish we had mountains here in the DFW area, TX!
I remember watching a guy named Bud Lindemann and he had a show called, "Car and Track." It was on around the late 60s early 70s. Great show but not much building or creating. Thatscwhere you succeed Dave. Thanks for taking us into your lair!!!
It is hard to believe that there are still people in the world that don't know the name Dave Chappelle. What a legend. I have an 06 F250 that tried to kill me on the interstate because of the death wobble. At 75mph I hit a pothole, it was bad enough to break my steering box internally. Id like to do a similar conversion and high steer setup. Cant wait to see the finished product.
@@thedirtheadshedI'm just glad to see that I'm not the only one that doesn't figure out stuff perfectly the first time when fabricating on the fly. I feel like most people at your level or exposure leave their issues on the editing room floor. Thank you for the honesty and awesome video! You helped me figure out some steering issues that I've been working through .
Tig tip for situations like your knuckle where you had nowhere to rest your hand, bring in one of your tall jack stands to rest your hand on. For your rosette welds, you need to massively bevel the hole on the tube to allow you to get down to the bottom of it with your torch then start at the bottom and spiral your way out.
I love my step drill. I never knew my real drill.. that's a dumb joke. But anyways, I use countersinks to over size holes. They are not snaggy and leave a perfect fit and finish. For drilling big holes, I absolutely always go to annular cutters. They are a game changer. I was taking a break from working on trucks to watch you work on trucks. You and Fred inspired me to build, break, repeat, from an early age, and I see you as family. I love the any budget builds. You don't need a $80k rig to do Pritchett canyon. I've done it with $3k. I also have a mini truck toyota, an f350, a 2nd gen 4runner, a 94 sas and locked pickup on 35's, and a 1st gen sequoia that's just been wrecked but gonna be sick. The superbowl was dumb. I was also in the garage. Doing a transfercase swap and high pinion front diff on the 94.
Self inflicted problems are the worst, but you hung in there and used the tried and true thread clean out method! 😂 great job man. Love watching the process of putting it all together with different brackets you already had at the shop. Can’t beat the PSC stuff!
@thedirtheadshed I will! It's a 67 that's been swapped to a '68 472. I've had it running, but now I'm painting the top half. Needs put back together so I can actually enjoy it
Dave, I removed tie rod ends and ball joints over the years of wrenching by hitting with a sledge hammer like you did but I never removed a pitman arm joints by banging it toward the steering box ( If the steering box is going to be reuse) because there is a tendency you could pit the sector shaft with the sector shaft needle bearings. That's what I learned and also my opinion. Great VID. Keep it coming.
I freaking love your intro.. gets me pumped everything. Dave if you are ever near Charlotte NC and need a place to work on something or need to fab something you are more then welcome to stop in by my house. I have a nice little shop here at home where I build my hot rods.
Dont get me wrong I loved DED, but ever since you've been doing Dirthead Shed I cannot wait to watch the videos! I love how you are technical and explain things in your videos. I have learned a ton just by watching your videos, since you always explain everything and go into depth. Thank you for throwing these videos together since I know youtubing isnt easy haha. Love the videos Dave keep it up!
Once again, I liked the episode. It gives me confidence that banging with the big hammer is something that everyone experiences. I have converted to a puller too early too many times. Liking the logic that you go through knocking out issues as they come. I can add them to my own arsenal. Thanks again and keep them coming.
@@thedirtheadshed Just finishing up on a 2021 Jeep Gladiator Mojave 3 1/2 lift, sway bars, 37 in tires, front locker install, and regear to 5.13 for a trip to Sand Hollow for Matt's off-road get-together. Next comes a tube chassis with a Cummings 4-cylinder crate motor.
If you take a torch and soot the threads it will keep from any slag or anything from messing up the threads. I have to install threaded pipe fittings into threadolets and weldolets and and old timer showed me this trick. Turn the torch where it has a real sooty flame then soot up the threads
How do you do it? Your working a day Job and then manage to produce weekly videos--your the MAN! Regarding the threads on the steering links, I build One Ton steering replacement links for Full Size Jeeps and I quickly found that all that heat distorts the threads. So, I let the link cool and then chase the threads with a tap. It's way too easy to ruin a Bung and Tie Rod. I Love Your videos. Very fun, informative and clean--no cursing.
Another great video. I’m glad to see that I’m not the only one who causes myself more work 😅 really liking the longer videos. I can’t wait to see what’s coming for the Jeep. Keep up the good work!
Hitting the pitman arm or tie rod ends squish the cast steel and pushes the TRE out like squeezing a tube of toothpaste. When taught that, I always get that visual... don't know why that brings me such joy, but I figured I'd share anyway.
The scope of that just blew up hey? I'm sure in hindsight it's for the best, but I know that feeling when you're geared up for a breezy install and realize it'd be dumb not to just do it right. On the brights, you get a way better truck in the end, and we get rad content :D
I love unibits sooooooo much!!! I built a gmc 2wd using superduty axles and doubler from ORD, but i really want to build a f350 with 7.3 or 6.2 gas for my next truck!
Looks great! Not doubting your work but knowing my own failures with the whole Cast to steel thing in general ... im sure you know but American Iron makes some pretty rad knuckles for that.
Your drag link needs to be moved forward to the same bolt as the tie rod. With it back the way you have it it’s going to move at a different rate than the tie rod and it doesn’t have as much turning leverage.
Oi! on the central coast between morro and slo. got a 1st gen tundra with an arb bar not technically for it. Also have an emu 2.5" lift for the truck as well. Trying to find a spot to work on it.
Your a great fabricator and I love watching your work I'm a welder/fabricator and machinist so I can respect the work but I'm wondering why your not putting the drag link directly over the tie rod? Seems you would gain more clearance for the pan hard bar
Yep, the one and only time I tried plug welding an insert it did the same thing. And yes the one left handed tap cost as much as the whole kit from Harbor Freight...😅
Watching Dave tap those 7/8"s threads with that reverse thread makeshift tap I couldn't help but yell at the screen "get a wrench bigger than 12" Dave! What are you doing?" xD
Next time your welding close to heat sensitive parts wrap it in a room temp water filled rag. Then as you weld add cold water rags or water depending on how much heat your adding
My dad was a front end guy for Ford for about 15 years, and he used to carry around the 6 pound blue point. And he would start reforming steel... on those pesky ball joints and front end components
So when I was watching you on UA in Louis and the 4wd guys on their Rubicon trip (in the Jeep), I wondered the whole time if the tie rod (bar) could be fabricated to kick up after the tie rod end before going across to keep it from bashing on oncoming rocks. Am I all wet on that train of thought? I realize the pressure on bar with the rough shape of a cooler handle might flex, but maybe with some gusseting in the corners? Edit: Viewer request, can you Puh-leeeez get with the rest of the UA guys and invite the Aussie guys from 4wd 24/7 on the next trip? That would be the most amazing mash up ever!
I would love to do a trip with those fellas. You could bend the bar up. Yes it would be a little weaker. It would also want to flop down. So the heim joints or tie rod ends would always be maxed out one way which could cause premature wear
DIRT HEAD DAVE question for you how ar the maxxis razor Mt on Louie? I want to put some on my TJ I'm in north Oregon coast area wheel alot at browns camp. 👍 love your wheeler builds
"It was pretty fun", but you have to tell us more about your speeding ticket!! Ya, I've had my "interactions" with the Idaho State Police more than once LOL.
Its hard to tell through video but would it work better if you ran the drag link to the top side of where the tie rod attaches? Just use a longer bolt and you could basically tripple shear it if you felt necessary. The geometry looks goofy with the drag link crossing over and i am wondering how the steering will feel with the point of leverage being that far back. Im sure it will be real fast and responsive but might be kinda hard to turn off road.
Since you have so much knowledge just lying around.....I have a question lol. I have a 2000 jeep xj with a Rubicon Express 4.5in lift which is actually about 6in. Got more than I paid for I think but now my jeep is higher than I wanted lol. It also had trailforged crossover steering with heim joints and the lift is fully adjustable with trackbar heim too. I'm still running the stock trackbar bracket and after installing the new 4.7l stroker engine it developed death wobble all of a sudden. I can't find anything loose at all but o do THINK I see the trackbar bracket flexing kinda like a spring. You ever seen that cause death wobble? I've been an auto tech for 23 years but I'm new to the 4x4 stuff especially owning one. I got a new bracket and brace kit on the way from cavfab and new upper control arm bushings on the axle side as well. Just wanted an opinion on if that's even possible coz the stuff I'm running only has 3k miles on it and mostly highway and none of it loose.im definitely out of money from the engine swap. That came outta nowhere. My rig was down a year coz of the engine and I only put 1k miles on it before the death wobble and it's parked again.
It’s likely in the track bar or track bar bracket. Also, look at the skyjacker soft ride springs for the front of it. Could lower it down a little for like $200
I’m pretty anti bent track bar. Once you bend a tube it wants to continue to bend. That being said. My old amigo has a track bar in it with two bends and it’s lasted for 15 years
@@thedirtheadshed got it. Technically speaking, a bent track bar is stronger than a straight one. The bending work hardens the steel. As the outer portion of the tube does stretch as you bend it and gets thinner and slightly weaker, but the inner portion compresses and overall increases the strength of the bar. This assumes small bends and is a function of wall thickness. If you have ever looked at an stress-strain curve of a material, what you are doing when you are bending material is straining it. Strain = stretch. As you stretch it, the yield strength in creases as can be seen by the curve. When you stretch it past the point where it no longer returns, the portion of the tube that is trying to spring it back to its original position is in tension, and at a higher yield strength than original. The rest of the tube that is no longer trying to spring it back to its normal shape is usually marginally below the nominal stress and so if you sum up the post bent tensioned portions that are stronger with the portions that are weaker, your left with more strength than you started with. This assumes you’re not tearing the tube or anything like that. Hope this makes sense. With that said, modifying that crossmember doesn’t look too hard lol.
I’m planning to replace my front u-joints as well on my ‘06 f250. What I wanted to ask is if those dust seals are reusable or do I have to get new ones ahead of time? I’m trying to do more and more of my own maintenance as my schedule allows and I need to be prepared. Thanks for all the awesome videos!
Why wouldn't you run the draglink to the same bolt as the tierod? You have quite the angle going to the back of the truck now. Moving to the tierod hole would straighten it out.
Hey Dave, chev sterring better than ford? Everyway. My superduty was like steering a boat w/o any cables. Finally got steering box that steers like my wife’s 72 c20.
Hey Dave love what you do but I'm a big Ford guy and mini truck guy I'm concerned about the mustang 2 haven't seen it lately and I don't even see it in the garage. Please tell me she's okay 😊
I've fought through a few custom high steer set ups, the struggle is real. I've not used a Barnes kit- was there something preventing you from moving the tierod to the rear holes and the drag link to the front (where the tie rod was/ is)? Seems like it would have solved the interference issues and made the links more parallel. Cheers, Chris
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
Dave I grew up watching Stacey David Sunday morning. My brother and I would watch every weekend. I now watch your videos on the weekend with two boys. We have been very slowly working on our 1975 f100 lack of cash and time you know life. Thanks for the videos
Stacy David is such a knowledgeable guy. Hopefully I’ll get to work on a project with him sometime
@@thedirtheadshed we'd watch for sure
Same, loved his programs. That guy is very talented. Dave, you are also very talented. Keep it up, you give me hope and you seem like such an awesome man. Wish we had mountains here in the DFW area, TX!
@@wysurvivorStacy David has a podcast out that’s pretty good covering a range of car guy topics.
I remember watching a guy named Bud Lindemann and he had a show called, "Car and Track." It was on around the late 60s early 70s. Great show but not much building or creating. Thatscwhere you succeed Dave. Thanks for taking us into your lair!!!
It is hard to believe that there are still people in the world that don't know the name Dave Chappelle. What a legend.
I have an 06 F250 that tried to kill me on the interstate because of the death wobble. At 75mph I hit a pothole, it was bad enough to break my steering box internally. Id like to do a similar conversion and high steer setup. Cant wait to see the finished product.
That’s sketchy!! I hope this works well
Dave, You are a gifted fabricator/builder. Can't wait to see LVT finished. Stay safe.
Thanks! Should be fun to drive
@@thedirtheadshedI'm just glad to see that I'm not the only one that doesn't figure out stuff perfectly the first time when fabricating on the fly. I feel like most people at your level or exposure leave their issues on the editing room floor. Thank you for the honesty and awesome video! You helped me figure out some steering issues that I've been working through .
Tig tip for situations like your knuckle where you had nowhere to rest your hand, bring in one of your tall jack stands to rest your hand on. For your rosette welds, you need to massively bevel the hole on the tube to allow you to get down to the bottom of it with your torch then start at the bottom and spiral your way out.
Good tips. Thanks
Your fabrication skills are becoming much more nuanced. It's really cool to see you continually going after it. Nicely done, as always.
Thank you very much!
I love my step drill. I never knew my real drill.. that's a dumb joke.
But anyways, I use countersinks to over size holes. They are not snaggy and leave a perfect fit and finish.
For drilling big holes, I absolutely always go to annular cutters. They are a game changer.
I was taking a break from working on trucks to watch you work on trucks. You and Fred inspired me to build, break, repeat, from an early age, and I see you as family.
I love the any budget builds.
You don't need a $80k rig to do Pritchett canyon. I've done it with $3k.
I also have a mini truck toyota, an f350, a 2nd gen 4runner, a 94 sas and locked pickup on 35's, and a 1st gen sequoia that's just been wrecked but gonna be sick.
The superbowl was dumb. I was also in the garage. Doing a transfercase swap and high pinion front diff on the 94.
You stay busy!! Keep at it man! And yeah. The joke had me laughing
Self inflicted problems are the worst, but you hung in there and used the tried and true thread clean out method! 😂 great job man. Love watching the process of putting it all together with different brackets you already had at the shop. Can’t beat the PSC stuff!
Tell me about it. All we do it create problems then fix em
you have a knack for instruction, love your videos Dave! I share them with my sons. I hope they listen to you. LOL
I appreciate you passing it on as well
Great work Dave! It’s always fun getting steering and suspension to clear everything. Look forward to the next part.
Same here! I need this thing off the lift!
Dave, you've been a huge inspiration to me to get my 67 cadillac deville project painted and on the road
Right on! Keep enjoying that caddy
@thedirtheadshed I will! It's a 67 that's been swapped to a '68 472. I've had it running, but now I'm painting the top half. Needs put back together so I can actually enjoy it
"Rad upgrade." Always nice when your rig turns. Love dirt! Thanks
These fords need all the help they can get
I bet you had wicked bump steer with that track bar angle.
It wasn’t bad with the stock steering. But it would have been terrible with the high steer
Hi Dave, that’s a nice set up!! Definitely have that in mind for the future 👍🏻
I’ll know shortly how it works!
That turned out great! Cross member redo seems easy compared to all the steering geometry. Looking forward to seeing it completed.
Right! Me too
Dave, I removed tie rod ends and ball joints over the years of wrenching by hitting with a sledge hammer like you did but I never removed a pitman arm joints by banging it toward the steering box ( If the steering box is going to be reuse) because there is a tendency you could pit the sector shaft with the sector shaft needle bearings. That's what I learned and also my opinion. Great VID. Keep it coming.
I should invest in some tie rod removal tools. I don’t really like hammering on this stuff either
Great Video Dave, Really enjoy the way you explain what you are doing an why. always enjoy your videos thanks for shaing.
Glad you are enjoying the videos . They are fun to make
I bought a 7/8 left hand tap on Amazon for around $30. It is made in Japan and seems to work pretty well.
I need to utilize amazon for more stuff
I always learn a bunch watching your vids. Thanks for doing these!
No problem. Thanks for watching. Tell your friends
I do love this truck. I cannot to wheel with it again!
It might be my Moab rig.. still deciding
I freaking love your intro.. gets me pumped everything. Dave if you are ever near Charlotte NC and need a place to work on something or need to fab something you are more then welcome to stop in by my house. I have a nice little shop here at home where I build my hot rods.
I appreciate the invite! Have a rad weekend
Dont get me wrong I loved DED, but ever since you've been doing Dirthead Shed I cannot wait to watch the videos! I love how you are technical and explain things in your videos. I have learned a ton just by watching your videos, since you always explain everything and go into depth. Thank you for throwing these videos together since I know youtubing isnt easy haha. Love the videos Dave keep it up!
Thanks for watching them. It’s definitely a ton of work. But it also pushes me to work on my stuff
Once again, I liked the episode. It gives me confidence that banging with the big hammer is something that everyone experiences. I have converted to a puller too early too many times. Liking the logic that you go through knocking out issues as they come. I can add them to my own arsenal. Thanks again and keep them coming.
Get out there and make some progress this weekend!
@@thedirtheadshed Just finishing up on a 2021 Jeep Gladiator Mojave 3 1/2 lift, sway bars, 37 in tires, front locker install, and regear to 5.13 for a trip to Sand Hollow for Matt's off-road get-together. Next comes a tube chassis with a Cummings 4-cylinder crate motor.
Those are big moves!!
@@thedirtheadshed Life is short. Time for new adventures.
Really cool Tom thanks for sharing!!
I think you’ve got the wrong guy
@@thedirtheadshed yeah sorry not sure what I was thinking. I follow Tom from Matt's off-road recovery.
I had the same problem with the weld in bungs when I welded them with a 7018 stick rod learned the hard way I had to get new ones
Yeah. Certain ones are affected worse than other brands
If you take a torch and soot the threads it will keep from any slag or anything from messing up the threads. I have to install threaded pipe fittings into threadolets and weldolets and and old timer showed me this trick. Turn the torch where it has a real sooty flame then soot up the threads
Challenge accepted
How do you do it? Your working a day Job and then manage to produce weekly videos--your the MAN! Regarding the threads on the steering links, I build One Ton steering replacement links for Full Size Jeeps and I quickly found that all that heat distorts the threads. So, I let the link cool and then chase the threads with a tap. It's way too easy to ruin a Bung and Tie Rod. I Love Your videos. Very fun, informative and clean--no cursing.
I’m working part time. So this week worked the first 2 weeks, then took 2 off. It’s still super rough at times
That was intense! Thanks to the production team on this one!!! Keep up the great work!
“Production team…”” that’s just me on this one. Thank you
Looking great Dave!!! Can’t wait for the next episode.
Thanks! I’m happy with how it’s coming together
Story of most of my projects, "Fix it until it is" good.
Yep. That’s all you can do
Always excited to see when you've posted a new video. By the time it's done, I'm ready to go work on one of my rigs! Thanks Dave!
Right on. Hopefully you can get out there this weekend
Great video, Dave. I'm really enjoying watching you fabricate on Louie
Glad you dig it. Thanks
This is sick Dave. And I also like the angle of the drag link to track bar to help with your bump steer! Good job bro!!
Thanks. Trying to keep it all in check
Dude!!! Great video!!! Way to figure out multiple steering problems!!! And making it Entertaining to watch!!!✌️
Thanks! I was so tired of editing! I wasn’t sure if it would be watchable or not
Once again Boss, looks like you're killing it!
Thanks! I feel like I’m moving at a snails pace, but it’s getting there
Another great video. I’m glad to see that I’m not the only one who causes myself more work 😅 really liking the longer videos. I can’t wait to see what’s coming for the Jeep. Keep up the good work!
Thanks for the feedback ! Always more work than anticipated… I’m still working on it
Hitting the pitman arm or tie rod ends squish the cast steel and pushes the TRE out like squeezing a tube of toothpaste. When taught that, I always get that visual... don't know why that brings me such joy, but I figured I'd share anyway.
I can’t unsee thet
All kinds of cool stuff in this one! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for all of your videos. I learn more with each one!
Thanks for continuing to watch them. !
Lois ViTen is a really cool truck!
Thanks! Looking forward to driving again!
This video is awesome. Keep up the good work Dave!
Thanks. Glad you enjoyed it
The Ford PS pump drone sound from 80-96 OBS trucks definitely live in the HOF for recognizable car sounds
I remember changing a pump on an Aerostar like 4 times before we got a good one
Support
Thank you
Best thumbnails in the industry😂
What wall thickness?
I try… but it’s hard to make shop work Look exciting
1.5” .250 dom
@@thedirtheadshed thank you
The scope of that just blew up hey? I'm sure in hindsight it's for the best, but I know that feeling when you're geared up for a breezy install and realize it'd be dumb not to just do it right. On the brights, you get a way better truck in the end, and we get rad content :D
It totally snowballed! I’m still working on this thing. …. But it’s gonna be rad
Dude because Ford! They feel the strange need to mess up good plans… that truck is looking great either way!
Thanks! It’s putting up a good fight
I’ve done that to my heim joints before, so with my last tie rod I stuffed a wet rag on the treads while I welded it and it seemed to work for me.
That’s a technique I haven’t hear of
Love the in-depth tech. They skipped so much of the good stuff on Dirt Every Day. 🤙🏻
So much!! That was frustrating for me
It’s looking pretty sweet!
Thanks! Ready to get it off the lift
Holy snowballs! Old butter jeep is looking sad in the snow.
I know!! It needs attention
There is always something to learn from your content, Dave. Fine work. Amy, chance you and Fred will work on a project again?
I hope to. We shall see
I love unibits sooooooo much!!! I built a gmc 2wd using superduty axles and doubler from ORD, but i really want to build a f350 with 7.3 or 6.2 gas for my next truck!
That would be rad. Gotta pay up for those newer ones though
I need to do all of this on my F250... So awesome!
If all goes well I will be able to show it in action next Friday
@@thedirtheadshedSweeeeeeet! Fingers crossed!
Looks great! Not doubting your work but knowing my own failures with the whole Cast to steel thing in general ... im sure you know but American Iron makes some pretty rad knuckles for that.
I need to look those up
Good job man I don't know how you do it my brain hurts and I'm just watching lol! I can't wait to see how it works on the trail👍👍
Haha. It’s a lot of back and forth. But it’s better to spend the time now. Nothing worse than redoing something
Very cool!!! Love it and cant wait to see you put some big air bags on Louis ViTen lol
Believe me, it’s on my mind
Dave,
you're rad and i always love your videos! i have a V10 Super Duty and i dig it too ...but its not as cool as Louis. keep up the good work!
Thanks ! This one is pretty cool. But frustrating at times too
Your drag link needs to be moved forward to the same bolt as the tie rod. With it back the way you have it it’s going to move at a different rate than the tie rod and it doesn’t have as much turning leverage.
The added leverage comes from the hydraulic assist ram that gets installed
Oi! on the central coast between morro and slo. got a 1st gen tundra with an arb bar not technically for it. Also have an emu 2.5" lift for the truck as well. Trying to find a spot to work on it.
I’m not sure who the go-to shops are in that area. I would call Poly Performance and ask them who they recommend
@@thedirtheadshed was wonderin if fred needed some content :)
Try to rest your arm in a tie-down strap while welding that area, Dave. Also, when are we to be expecting “Uni-bits rule” t-shirts??
Or use the transmission jack!
Hahah. I freakin love those things
The transmission jack is for holding the go pro
Your a great fabricator and I love watching your work I'm a welder/fabricator and machinist so I can respect the work but I'm wondering why your not putting the drag link directly over the tie rod? Seems you would gain more clearance for the pan hard bar
Drag link needs to pivot where I pivot in the hole where I put it so it can get full steering angle. Farther out will lessen that
"Chevy style". VWs have had that style pump since the 80s 😎
Some things just work
Excellent video
Thank you very much!
Yep, the one and only time I tried plug welding an insert it did the same thing. And yes the one left handed tap cost as much as the whole kit from Harbor Freight...😅
It’s a bummer when that happens!
Watching Dave tap those 7/8"s threads with that reverse thread makeshift tap I couldn't help but yell at the screen "get a wrench bigger than 12" Dave! What are you doing?" xD
Hahah.. working with what I’ve got!!
If you offer a welding class I’d definitely sign up 👌🏻
I need to take one, not teach one! Thanks for the compliment
Next time your welding close to heat sensitive parts wrap it in a room temp water filled rag. Then as you weld add cold water rags or water depending on how much heat your adding
Thanks for the advice
My dad was a front end guy for Ford for about 15 years, and he used to carry around the 6 pound blue point. And he would start reforming steel... on those pesky ball joints and front end components
Got to have the right touch. Bigger hammer isn’t always better
Hey Dave!
Hey. Thanks for watching
So when I was watching you on UA in Louis and the 4wd guys on their Rubicon trip (in the Jeep), I wondered the whole time if the tie rod (bar) could be fabricated to kick up after the tie rod end before going across to keep it from bashing on oncoming rocks. Am I all wet on that train of thought? I realize the pressure on bar with the rough shape of a cooler handle might flex, but maybe with some gusseting in the corners? Edit: Viewer request, can you Puh-leeeez get with the rest of the UA guys and invite the Aussie guys from 4wd 24/7 on the next trip? That would be the most amazing mash up ever!
I would love to do a trip with those fellas. You could bend the bar up. Yes it would be a little weaker. It would also want to flop down. So the heim joints or tie rod ends would always be maxed out one way which could cause premature wear
It’ll be good🎉
Let’s hope so
I love your videos Dave. Keep up the great work!
Thanks so much
DIRT HEAD DAVE question for you how ar the maxxis razor Mt on Louie? I want to put some on my TJ I'm in north Oregon coast area wheel alot at browns camp. 👍 love your wheeler builds
I like them a lot. Good road and rock tire, not sure about mud
How do you keep it all straight without going crazy? Great video as always👍
I’m going crazy. But it’s actually about done now. Wheeling Sunday if all goes well
@@thedirtheadshed Rad!!!
Hell yeah. Thanks that was great. I learned and was entertained! Could you call that Edu-tainment?! lol
Nice!! That’s the goal
"It was pretty fun", but you have to tell us more about your speeding ticket!! Ya, I've had my "interactions" with the Idaho State Police more than once LOL.
He was all business…. I paid it
Cool vid. The wife walks in and says "who sings that theme song? Voice sounds so familiar " lol. So, question fir the day...
It’s Howl by the Darkness I believe
run your drag link on top of your tie rod share the bolt and make it double sheer
It wouldn’t get full steering angle with it out there
Its hard to tell through video but would it work better if you ran the drag link to the top side of where the tie rod attaches? Just use a longer bolt and you could basically tripple shear it if you felt necessary. The geometry looks goofy with the drag link crossing over and i am wondering how the steering will feel with the point of leverage being that far back. Im sure it will be real fast and responsive but might be kinda hard to turn off road.
You could. But it would lose a ton of steering angle going to that point
Since you have so much knowledge just lying around.....I have a question lol. I have a 2000 jeep xj with a Rubicon Express 4.5in lift which is actually about 6in. Got more than I paid for I think but now my jeep is higher than I wanted lol. It also had trailforged crossover steering with heim joints and the lift is fully adjustable with trackbar heim too. I'm still running the stock trackbar bracket and after installing the new 4.7l stroker engine it developed death wobble all of a sudden. I can't find anything loose at all but o do THINK I see the trackbar bracket flexing kinda like a spring. You ever seen that cause death wobble? I've been an auto tech for 23 years but I'm new to the 4x4 stuff especially owning one. I got a new bracket and brace kit on the way from cavfab and new upper control arm bushings on the axle side as well. Just wanted an opinion on if that's even possible coz the stuff I'm running only has 3k miles on it and mostly highway and none of it loose.im definitely out of money from the engine swap. That came outta nowhere. My rig was down a year coz of the engine and I only put 1k miles on it before the death wobble and it's parked again.
It’s likely in the track bar or track bar bracket. Also, look at the skyjacker soft ride springs for the front of it. Could lower it down a little for like $200
Would you consider bending your track bar instead of cutting away that crossmember? Seems like it might be less work.
I’m pretty anti bent track bar. Once you bend a tube it wants to continue to bend. That being said. My old amigo has a track bar in it with two bends and it’s lasted for 15 years
@@thedirtheadshed got it. Technically speaking, a bent track bar is stronger than a straight one. The bending work hardens the steel. As the outer portion of the tube does stretch as you bend it and gets thinner and slightly weaker, but the inner portion compresses and overall increases the strength of the bar. This assumes small bends and is a function of wall thickness.
If you have ever looked at an stress-strain curve of a material, what you are doing when you are bending material is straining it. Strain = stretch. As you stretch it, the yield strength in creases as can be seen by the curve. When you stretch it past the point where it no longer returns, the portion of the tube that is trying to spring it back to its original position is in tension, and at a higher yield strength than original. The rest of the tube that is no longer trying to spring it back to its normal shape is usually marginally below the nominal stress and so if you sum up the post bent tensioned portions that are stronger with the portions that are weaker, your left with more strength than you started with. This assumes you’re not tearing the tube or anything like that. Hope this makes sense.
With that said, modifying that crossmember doesn’t look too hard lol.
I’m planning to replace my front u-joints as well on my ‘06 f250. What I wanted to ask is if those dust seals are reusable or do I have to get new ones ahead of time? I’m trying to do more and more of my own maintenance as my schedule allows and I need to be prepared. Thanks for all the awesome videos!
Those probably should be replaced if you have the vacuum actuated hubs. Otherwise re use yours
Love hate with the unit bearing set up
Totally they seem to be winning the battle though
Why wouldn't you run the draglink to the same bolt as the tierod? You have quite the angle going to the back of the truck now. Moving to the tierod hole would straighten it out.
Going out to that hole would lessen the amount of steering angle quite a bit
Hey Dave, chev sterring better than ford? Everyway. My superduty was like steering a boat w/o any cables. Finally got steering box that steers like my wife’s 72 c20.
They have always been pretty bad
I just replaced the box on my f350, I tried every puller I could find, every pry bar, heat, gave up and bought a new pitman arm.
You almost had it
according to the pictures on barnes web site you have the passenger side links backwards. draglink in front of the tie rod.
I think you’re looking at the 09-up
@@thedirtheadshed they show 2 2005-2008 kits, one runs the drag link in front
Yep.
Thanks
When you are building and measuring everything are you doing it with a suspension fully drooped or compressed?
Usually mid travel or ride height
22:35 You mean you missed Taylor Swift?
Looking forward to your feedback of this steering system. It looks beef!
Yep! Me too. Need it off the lift
Hey Dave love what you do but I'm a big Ford guy and mini truck guy I'm concerned about the mustang 2 haven't seen it lately and I don't even see it in the garage. Please tell me she's okay 😊
Oh yeah. It’s fine. I just need to get back on the body and paint. Cruising season is soon
The Mustang is in a lot of this video.
Did you paint those knuckles or just clean them? They looked brand new when you installed the new tie-rod.
Just spray painted
How dare you go wheelin without giving us a video? Glad to hear that you don't watch that sports ball finale, either!
I did film it. That was last weeks wheeling in mom’s Spaghetti
I've fought through a few custom high steer set ups, the struggle is real.
I've not used a Barnes kit- was there something preventing you from moving the tierod to the rear holes and the drag link to the front (where the tie rod was/ is)?
Seems like it would have solved the interference issues and made the links more parallel.
Cheers, Chris
Ther is only a rear hole on pass knuckle. It’s designed that way to keep full steering angle
@@thedirtheadshed ah gotcha, closer to the same length/ swing radius as the pitman.
Yep!
Lookin great, sir. What brand and model is your blue box/pan brake that’s in the fab table?
The finger brake is from Eastwood. The table is a CertiFlat from weldtables.com
Thanks Dave!
Tittle Text Here 😂 great video!
Did I screw up an overlay?? Go figure
@@thedirtheadshed It happens.. just keep being awesome!
1:12
Another fine episode of "Dirthead Dave's Creepers and Crawlers"
Thanks for checking it out
No alu grips for vise tube use?
I’m not rich
Do you disconnect the ECU while welding on a vehicle or just disconnect the battery?
I just disconnect the battery
Great video Dave
I would love to do this with my truck, but cannot imagine doing it without a lift.
Yeah. It is a struggle on the ground
Any plans on rear steer in the future since it's s big rig
No, not on this. Maybe if I built a buggy
@@thedirtheadshed :) u would build a siiick buggy