How I solder a joint VERTICALLY and why | GOT2LEARN
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 2 май 2023
- Join my plumbing forum for FREE!
got2learn.freeforums.net/
FULL VIDEO: • How to CORRECTLY Solde...
Amazon affiliate links to all the products I used in this video:
AutoCut Pipe Cutter 1/2": amzn.to/2XlyqAn
AutoCut Pipe Cutter 3/4: amzn.to/2GZFrkf
Superior Tool 1/2" Cleaning Attachment: amzn.to/2kwBMBK
Pencil Torch: amzn.to/2U3OTaa
Handheld Torch: amzn.to/2VhGujo
Fitting Wire Brush 1/2": amzn.to/2BOlNVc
Fitting Wire Brush 3/4": amzn.to/2U33enp
Propane gas(Blue bottle): amzn.to/2BOhnh7
Propene gas(Yellow bottle): amzn.to/2BPcdBl
Lead-free tinning flux: amzn.to/2U3abEW
Lead-free flux(water soluble): amzn.to/2XjaYn9
Flux brushes: amzn.to/2T8ROBc
Lead-free solder: amzn.to/2yPvjso
Flame protector: amzn.to/2Vh8q7o
Flint striker: amzn.to/2XiuX5y
Abrasive pads: amzn.to/2NnA9QP
Pencil reamer: amzn.to/2tBuhKW
All-in-one deburring tool: amzn.to/3B9dLUv
DISCLAIMER: Got2Learn is NOT responsible for any damage done to a property of which the plumbing wasn't done by a professional, I do not recommend doing your own plumbing if you are unsure about what you are doing, always hire a LICENSED contractor when doing any type of plumbing so you can be covered by insurances if something does happen, these videos are for entertainment purposes only!
This is such a great channel. I feel fortunate that I found it, it inspired me to practice soldering and to get an intuition for how it works.
Very gratifying, thank you so much 🙏
Great channel!
I learned how to solder with this channel when I was replacing my shower valves. Saved me $2500 from what the plumber quoted me when I chose the to do the work myself. This channel is great.
😇😇😇
I was taught to wipe the flux away before you solder to prevent drips, it helps
If you want to work out how much solder to use. Bend the end of the solder 90 degrees. Same width as pipe. And you good to go. That's what we learnt when we were apprentices
Underrated comment
I have used your information on soldering several times...everything is still working properly.
Thanks a million
This video has engineering education level quality. Very good! I wish my bosses were like you!
Not a plumber and probably never going to attempt this this is a fantastic demonstration
Great video, cut-away, and graphics, but I've never seen copper get unwetted of solder.
I always unroll about a foot of solder and form it between my fingers into a wave pattern, with the waves being about an inch or so high. This helps me gauge how much solder I’m going through per joint. It also helps me reach around the back side of the joint to ensure even application of solder all around the joint
Your explanations have gotten better and better as you make these videos. 👍😁
I used this yesterday to fix my water heater piping and it worked! I just follow his theory of the solder is attracted to heat. And no leaks!
Self taught myself how to solder with RUclips and trial and error.
Wish you were around 9 years ago!!!!
rule of thumb... 1/2" pipe = about 1/2" of solder. 3/4" pipe = about 3/4" of solder. Improper cleaning, uneven heat, and using more solder is what causes problems. Like taking a crap... always wipe when done!
Exactly many do not now this. More isn’t better.
These explanations are paramount. No beating around the bush.
🔥🔥🔥
You do post insightful videos. Clear explanations. Easy to follow. Easy to see and visualize.
🙏
ABSOLUTE PROFESIONALISM EXPERIENCE WILL HELP MILLIONS...THANKS G2L
You always have such great advice and explain techniques very well. Keep it up. ❤
😇🙏
excellent detailed explanation...all about teaching a man to fish, as the saying goes
Yes, exactly!!!
Lord that was lot soldier you should be able to do 1/2 coupling with 3/4 of a inch of soldier too
The tubing and the fitting must be at the same temperature to make a good solder joint. (Obvious whenever soldering anything over 3/4 inch.) The flux cleans the joint, AND provides a medium for the solder to flow through, the heat from the torch directs the flow of the solder. Preparation (cleaning tubing & fitting, along with properly fluxing the joint), & controlling the heat are most important. Skip any of those steps, and even the best solderer in the entire world, (ME), would have a hard time making a good joint. I can do it though!
Have a nice day, and try to stay dry.😂
I was always tought to heat where you want the soder to go.
Again I was wondering why I had leaks everywhere 😂 thank you so much broski
Happy to help!!
When you think about it you probably require at the most one drop of solder to fill the incredibly thin space between the fitting and the pipe, two drops if you want to be sure. Then wipe away the excess molten solder with your flux brush for a neat and professional looking soldered joint. Don’t forget to wipe away excess flux and carbon deposits with a dry rag. Wiping away any excess flux will help prevent it from continually eating away at the copper over a few years, until it develops a pinhole leak.
That's why you always work from the bottom up because heat rises. Most of the time you don't need to heat the top of the fitting nearly as much because the heat from the bottom has already risen.
Good tip 👍
This actually isn’t true. Hot air rises above cool air because warm air is at a lower density than cool air. “Hot air rising” has more to do with the properties of air than heat itself. Copper isn’t air, the heat just travels to where heat can be transferred, whether that’s up, down, sideways, whatever.
@@zgrif there is air inside the pipe that is being heated as well that helps with the transfer of heat.
@@shanefoster3076 this is true, but the thermal conductivity of air is very very low. We use air gaps to insulate homes, for example. The thermal conductivity of copper is so much higher than that of air, enough that the effects of air in the pipe are mostly negligible from a heat transfer standpoint.
It’s just 1/2” copper, once it flashes it’s all flowing everywhere, let’s not over engineer something that’s been perfected decades ago.
I like your videos my friend i really hope i can go to america and be a plumber or drywall and painting thank a lot
Somewhere along the way I had drilled into my head “don’t heat the solder; heat the work”. Don’t torch the solder with the direct flame, instead, heat the area where you want to solder to be sucked up into, that is, into the joint.
I always heat the pipe just before the fitting, once the pipe starts to turn color then move heat to fitting and the solder will take. Vertically I would start from the top pipe and joint, then heat the lower pipe and move up to bottom joint...
Your advices are awsome
always heat in the direction you want the solder to flow...and NEVER start at the top rookie!!!!
Bottom first and finish on top. This not very critical smaller on diameter pipe but is a good habit to get into for larger pipe. On larger dia pipe, you need good heat control. Starting on the bottom and working around the pipe. The top is now preheated and will take less heat while the bottom is starting to cool.
Do any bend the solder so as not using too much for the joint?
This sounds like wild conjecture to me
thanks and I like too the original vidéo
😇😇😇
Wisdom, science!
Start on the bottom
Oatly 95 brother. Pre tinning flux. Just makes an easy job, easier!
I'm a retired pipe fitter I'm 71 years old, If I could only get a dollar for every solder joint that I made i would not be relying On medicare and social security, I'm barely getting by😮😮😮
PS, You definitely know how to solder copper, God speed
🙏🙏🙏🤜🤛
Why thank you 🙏🏾
Cool, whatever works.
I soldier lower portion first and the top will be hot when I get there.
Each their own.
Same here, heat rises.
@@chrismoreno3224 not in solids like copper. You're thinking of air
Forgot to explain why the bottom one goes towards the middle
Great in theory but I have yet to find a torch that can focus your heat with "pen point" accuracy. Proper experience is needed to control your heat. Basically practice, practice, practice.
Cream brûlée torch
@@krazykyle393lmao you gonna spend five-ten minutes heating each joint?
Best practice I’ve found while being an apprentice is to take old copper from the scrap pile and take off the old fittings just to solder them back on. Sure it’s a waste of solder but I guess it’s better than flooding a customers house lol
*Heat attracts the Solder* Wait, what? Why would that be?
It doesn't. That's a myth that a lot of people believe. The solder is attracted by capillary action, not by heat. *BUT*, the capillary action isn't going to work unless there's enough heat to keep the solder liquid. So, that has the appearance to some people that it's the heat whcih is attracting the solder, but it's not.
Very cool thank you
🤜🤛
Ive been liberal with my solder, but i didn't see any solder inside the pipes when i cut them open. Its hit and miss with solder.
If your pipe fit is good and clean and fluxed (without being burned off) it's pretty hard to flood through a joint without serious overheating.
The heating on the bottom doesn’t attract the solder. Using too much localized heat reduces the surface tension of the solder too much, to where the solder cannot climb against gravity because of the reduction in surface tension. This looks like overflow but it is not, the solder just goes in to the gap part way and won’t fill anymore.
The heat doesn't attract the solder. It is drawn in because of the surface tension of the liquid solder, which creates capillary action between the inner surface of the coupling and the outer surface of the pipe.
The heat creates the condition that allows all this to happen.
And if the heat is not placed properly, it does not flow to where we desire it.
@@TimeSurfer206 Yes, that condition being that the solder is liquid.
@@keithprocter141 Not without the heat.
@@TimeSurfer206 Heat melts solder but it doesn't attract it. You don't know what you are talking about...
@@billymacktexasdetective5827 The heat lowers the viscosity...
Liquids wick to areas of lower viscosity better.
This is why Candle wax can go UP a wick.
Sweat the bottom half of the fitting first. Heat rises.
So on larger you still have to break it up into two spots for heat, correct? Good to know.
Yes!
Great .
😎
A quick scour of the relevant YT vids and I can't find anything on cutting such a small length off a pipe end when it's just a little too long. A junior hacksaw and a file I guess ?🤔
Old timer taught me just use a wet rag around the seam and make it look good 😂
That causes rapid cooling, which can cause cracks in the solder. He has a video on exactly this. I've even seen it happen myself.
@@BackYardScience2000 I didn't say he taught me right...lol
I seriously thought I had done most everything right until I found this channel a couple years ago. This man has taught me a whole lot. Love the content
Start from the bottom. Heat rises work your way up.
The manual says you have to move the torch to heat the pipe evenly on as many sides possible. Heat rises and these joint are really close together. Heat the bottom joint on all sides first and solder, then move to the top joint and heat on all sides and solder. Just like the manual says.
Heat "rising" is inconsequential. The conductive transfer is much too fast for that to matter.
@@ObservationofLimits
Is that what the manual says? Let me know what manual you found that in.
@@bdog0720 it's in the countless physics classes regarding material sciences.
The conductive properties of metal on metal grossly outweigh the convection of "warm air". Air is an insulator to begin with and bad at transfer. The hot air will carry and transfer almost as much heat 6 inches up.
Air transfer is irrelevant outside the flame.
@@ObservationofLimits
So the answer is NO.
You sound very technically minded. Can you reference 1 physics book, from the countless, I can use to look up this info?
@@bdog0720 Copper - 398 W/m•K.
Air - 2.623−6.763 × 10^-2 W/m•K.
Wow a factor of FOUR
You actually do the bottom first I then the top if brazing
You should expplain cappilaryaction
Whole video on that subject right here: ruclips.net/video/bCTBVoPvnok/видео.htmlsi=SHAse_TWHVjF87g5
Well for one, you always go from bottom up. Never do the top first.
1995 we did that… 😂😂
That’s what I do.
What is a soder?
Can you use the same principle with brazing?
You don’t even need to really, silfoss doesn’t drip like solder does. Brazing is more about evenly heating the fitting and pipe vs soldering
Pro press > *
fuck me, once I tried 3 times to solder, like this and always dripped than soldered a small tap between the two end and never understand why was wrong, lost three hours thanks a lot
Shark bites and pex. This is the way.
never solder from the top down. Always solder from the bottom up, heat rises. you preheat the upper joint. Also, you need to use 1 1/2 times the solder, 1/2 " joint you need 1 1/2"s of solder, 3/4" you need 1 1/8" of solder.
Spoken like a solder salesman
Oh for fuck sake this is Basic knowledge.. cmon ppl
Very good information 👍
I think it may depend on the temperature of the pipe prior to soldering, as heat rises, so your theory isn't necessarily going to be correct. Many plumbers only add heat to one side of the joint, anyway, which I somewhat disagree with, as well.
I totally disagree with only heating one side.
Heat "rising" isn't going to have any noticeable effect compared to conduction transfer.
@@ObservationofLimits same principle
Just do it all from the top
Learning how to say solder would be good for you to
Thank you for doing this video. Now I can tell the plumber he did it wrong and I had to fix it later when he left.
Another great tip. Thx for posting 👍
On another note, it sounds like all those jackass comments from shallow, typical 'muricans got you to evolve your pronunciation of "solder".
Bollox . Your not a plumber . You can feed the joint from the top . And wait to see a ring of solder. At the bottom of the joint. No runs happy day. Clean joint. So it doesn't turn green from the old flux.. and your soldering depends on what blow lamp you've got. I recommend the rothenberger superfire 2. Your not s trades person.
Could someone please explain the physics behind the widely held belief that solder flows towards the heat?
Doesn't solder have lead?
If solder gets inside the pipe and water sits with lead in the pipe...
Doesn't the lead leach into the water supply?
The answer is yes.
Thanks for playing 😂
Not the new lead free solder.
@@Got2Learn good point 👍
However, what chemical is it made of and that chemical can still leach even though it might not be that toxic.
@@talkntrash It's made of tin and antimony, to what degree are they toxic, this I cannot answer, but I do know that lead solder isn't sold anymore, which is a good thing.
I don’t know where you live but in the states We’ve been using lead free solder for decades, it’s the law
What are your pipes made out of? Plastic? Not sure how that is any safer.
Your over thinking it ! Heat it up ! Solder both right after another! Then back of heat and cap! No burgers! If so , wipe away with solder! Next!
No shit. It's called sweating a fitting.
The L is NOT silent.
SOAL-DER
It is too! Just like you should be!
Ridiculous, that is not a 1/2 inch to 1 inch joint. And lead solder like that hasn't been used for decades.
hii 😍😍💖💖
Why is he saying sauder instead of solder. There’s an L in that word
did you ever solder in real life? these effects never happen. a good joint should have no more then 0,5mm space so the solder doesn't run out of the joint.
I'm using pex system no heat 4me 😅😅😅Novice I'm pro Now
Yea bro uhhh in reality the whole thing gets hot😂…… maybe if this was brass on brass or maybe even copper to brass 😊
That's hard to believe your gonna pull the solder out of the other joint by hearing the bottom of the other
No shitttttt!
Sol-der, not soder, and repeat
Soď-der-ing
Grammar Nazi....
“Saw-der” is correct
@@MrFitness94 sawl der, sod der sōl der Tōmătō
It's called brazing
Its called Sole - durrr
Not sawder ffs
Not how this works
Incorrect….