F5 Mandolin Rim and Block Set Assembly

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Комментарии • 10

  • @TradIrishHarper
    @TradIrishHarper 6 лет назад +10

    How I wish this fixture was still available

  • @dr.chandrakantt.morephysic1901
    @dr.chandrakantt.morephysic1901 10 месяцев назад

    What is the thickness of the sides?

  • @dr.chandrakantt.morephysic1901
    @dr.chandrakantt.morephysic1901 10 месяцев назад

    Very nice work

  • @coolrayfruge
    @coolrayfruge 2 года назад

    Where do you get the F5 mandolin Rim and block clamp set? can you buy the block and clamps somewhere. I have a F5 mandolin kit. with the top, bottom and the rims already assembled. Just need to a line the rim and glue it in place. Which that would help me to do .

  • @shecky308
    @shecky308 5 лет назад

    roger,you have a blueprint for a 17 inch wide archtop guitar..?let me know.

  • @fingerstyle-guitars
    @fingerstyle-guitars 7 лет назад +1

    why not using Titebond 2 or 3 for the rim section?

    • @tothepoint7258
      @tothepoint7258 4 года назад +1

      2 and 3 are water resistant. Original will come apart with heat and steam. Much harder with 2 and 3

    • @fingerstyle-guitars
      @fingerstyle-guitars 4 года назад +1

      @@tothepoint7258 thank you for your (late) answer ;). Actually I see no reason losen the blocks apart - ever. If I would have a repair-job which needs to remove the top, back or the neck I don´t want to worry about these joints. Usually I use Titebond 3 for parts I don´t want to come apart and/or need some extra time (longer assembly time then Original Titebond). For joints which might need to come aparte easier, like the neck joint (neck-reset) I use hide glue. When reglueing a Titebond joint you always have to remove at least a little of the wood to have a good bond because Titebond does not glue on (old) Titebond...

  • @VinodJadavani
    @VinodJadavani Год назад +1

    GOOD OK