I can’t get over how well you present this subject. I’m a single mom of three that own a 2000 National Tropical gasser. It’s not been maintained in the last couple of years but I have slowly been performing my own maintenance thanks to you and Joanie. I appreciate everything the both of you teach us and help us Rvers with. I’m able to spend quality time with my children while traveling with the military. I’m grateful for you both! Excellent presentation!
Hey Martin, I'm somewhat new to the rv lifestyle. But I'm not new to being able to maintain and fix things. I have watched, and learned an amazing amount of information from you, with the assistance of Jonie. I want to thank you for the service that you provide on RUclips. You are a treasure trove of information. Keep up the good work. Jonesy
@19:00 we don’t get tired of you mentioning that you clean out your water heater and have a water softener. Keep reminding us. It keeps newbie RVers like me conscious of those things. Keep it up
I don't usually make comments in social media but your presentation and way of communicating is top notch. After 18years of civilian schools and then military you are in the top 1% of my former instructors. Thank You
I do want to do it myself ! With your videos I believe I have the advantage I need to accomplish my goal! Thank you very kindly for your diligence and clear instructions. Shalam
Wow, I never knew what I didn't know about my water heater until I saw this video! This is excellent preventive maintenance. With the cost of a replacement water heater you can't afford to not do this. Keep the great videos coming Martin, and kudos to Joanie's camera work!! BTW, the new logo is great....and spot on.
hey people , do as martin states , he knows his stuff , and if your atwood water heater has moto aid , a system were engine coolant heats the water in the water heater , as well as 110 /LP / heating, take care of your water heater , the atwood company was bought out by dometic , and they have no water heaters with a heat exchangers/ motor aid , a very poor idea on the dometics part if you ask me, so listen to martin, in my book, he walks on water
I can’t thank you enough for these videos. We recently bought a 2008 Winnebago Sightseer 30B. We got it home and found it needs a ton of work (most of which is just servicing and maintenance) so I took it to the professionals for this (since there were no service records). Now that these items have been done by the pros, I have things that I am learning from you for PM and repairs and upgrades. You have superior videos with fantastic instructions for newbies like me. Thank you and Joanie for your work! Cheers
Glad my vid's have helped you. You can to do 80% - 90% of the maintenance needed on your RV and save a boat load of money. I can't thank you enough for watching. Always happy to help other RVer's. 👍 BTW....have you seen this PLAYLIST yet? ruclips.net/p/PLkQXtMp9xodR-PDUkTg936iZAeMuOqwnj
Oh, I forgot to add to my previous comment that I am also 76 years old and have multiple sclerosis and severe arthritis. But God has been good; I can still basically function. That’s why I enjoy your videos so much because you take your time. I live alone and do not have any family close by to help out. And yes I do climb on top of my motorhome. I loved the video on maintaining the air conditioner that was wonderful!Thank you again!
Wow thank you for the video, I've drained the water heater a couple of times in the last two years (It's a 2018 RV) and definitely had seen minerals come out but thought that was good enough. Did it your way and got out the same kind of junk as in your video. Now that I know how to do it thanks to you it will be on my maintenance list.
I am very grateful for your videos. Mainly because I’m on a very fixed income; I am a very arthritic female and I cannot afford to have other people do these things for me. However I have a 1991 Ford E350 7.5 L engine Class C and it has been worked on by so many different people for so many years that wiring isn’t correct ; new appliances were not always installed correctly, and things are just not correct with systems. I have finally managed to get the engine in tiptop shape and new tires and new shocks but there’s so many other problems that I just have to trial and error fix them by myself. I just had paid someone $300 to install a 1500 W inverter on my auxiliary battery. Within two months the converter did not work because he had sold me a rain damaged converter as new. So it’s stuff like that that has just so disheartened me. I cannot afford a new motorhome. I have to continue to piecemeal this one. Your videos and the equipment you use and the supplies you use have been extremely helpful. The part of your videos that I would love to see more information is the size of the tools wrenches or whatever that you use for the different size nuts and bolts and whatever. I have diminished eyesight and it’s extremely hard for me to tell at a glance what size I’m using. And I like to paint the size on the socket or ranch itself. But it would be helpful to know exactly what size wrench you’re using or socket etc.I hope to watch many more videos in the years that I have left! Most of my systems do not match up with these newer systems therefore I have a lot of difficulty trying to figure out exactly what wire goes to what system so forth and so on. However I do find your videos very informative and I have been able to utilize quite a few of them with a lot of hunting and pecking on my part, so to speak. Anyway I’m very grateful that you publish these for people like me that do not have the funds to buy everything that is needed. I make do with a lot of things and I do very well and I can usually get something fixed. But your information has been extremely helpful and I appreciate the close-ups of everything that don’t have your hands in the way. So thank you very much. I have subscribed to your channel and I hope I can see many more great videos! Now if you could just show how to fix structural damage like a hole or some rotted areas I would be even more grateful! :) Again, thank you very much!
WOW, what can I say Carolyn. Thank you for sharing your story. Your comment once again reinforces to me who a lot of our audience is and how we need to shoot these video's. Slow, close up, explain well what I'm doing and why. I promise I'll always try to keep these in mind when putting future videos together. Just going out to our coach and fixing something is easy. Fixing it, shooting it and explaining it on camera is a whole different animal. I have to constantly keep in mind what people want and need to see. When I read this: "Within two months the converter did not work because he had sold me a rain damaged converter as new". That kinda stuff makes me mad. That's just not right. But I will say, your tenaciousness to get done what your able to get done is admirable. I'm glad our channel has played a small part in helping you figure things out. 💗
I bought a used RV. I am cooking mine now . Will flush out in the.morning. really is easy to do. The pressure release valve was the original and it was a bear to remove. Got new one. Thanks for the video Martin.
Absolutely fantastic tips and tricks! I have a subscription to another site that I pay for that has a very large video library and your hot water maintenance video is far superior in so many ways. Nobody covers all the little details like you do. Keep doing what you!!
Martin, I really enjoy your DIY videos and tips. This comment has nothing to do with any of your ideas or upgrades. There are many videos that suggest "must haves" for your RV but none mention what I consider a must have. I carry a AED, automatic external defibrillator. The camp grounds we stay in rarely have one at the office or camp store, and we are usually quite a distance for EMS folks to travel. I have a sticker on the front windshield indicating that we have an AED for fellow campers if it might be needed. Yes it is expensive... but it could save a life... mine or a fellow RV'er
just did the tank followed your instructions. for a guy who cannot hammer two pieces of wood together. This project went perfect. Everything you said happened. . When you come to Canada the Ribbeyes are on us. Thanks
After adding the water softener this past season (per your recommendation - my hard water pieces were greatly reduced!). Thanks for all the good tips. Safe Travels as you head out this season!
Another great educational video! Well done. Timely for me While traveling we experienced the regular weekly RV component failure this past weekend. Most times we use the electric side for water heating. This week though I wanted to run the gas side to expedite water heat recovery. Naturally it did not come on and work as I seem to need to have something go wrong with the rig each week LOL!. Never could get it to fire. I think I'm not getting spark. So today's project is to clean and overhaul the water heater to see if I can get her to fire up. Ours is an Atwood 10 gal. On ours, WBGO decided to make access to the WH so attractive with an outside swing up body panel covering and blocking the WH. Its so nicely designed to raise up above the WH to access the inner door panel so that it will fall on your head whenever working on the component. In my case water heater repair and maintenance is hard hat work!! Safe travels. Thank you Joanie and Martin for your good work on these videos!
Martin, I watched the first one and found it helpful. I watched this one and found it to be 100% better. So much more informative and by including the borescope you gave first hand evidence of how well this works. We got a new class C in December and I thought I'd give it a try. Couldn't be that bad right after only 9 months right? WRONG!!! I was shocked at the amount of little white turds I got out of my water heater tank. You convinced me mate. Now a part of my quarterly maintenance routine. OBTW I did take your advice and bought the air compressor from your store. So just wanted to say thanks. Happy travels my friend.
I know right. Those mineral deposits build up fast and especially if you don't have a water softener. Good Job! 👍 And thank you Chief so much for supporting us using our Amazon Store. It means more to Joanie & I than you know. 🙏
@@RVstreet can I ask a question? In your previous vid on this topic you spoke of replacing the nylon plug with a brass plug. This one you went back to the nylon plug. Is there a reason? I hope you don't mind me picking your brain but your info is so helpful, your like my go to encyclopedia for RV maintenance. Thanks in advance Martin.
@@chief7839 In the first video I showed the brass plug because at the time I couldn't get the nylon one to seal properly. In the 2nd video I showed how I discovered mineral deposits that we're embedded in the threads and once I cleaned those out I could go back to the nylon plug and it seated properly. The nylon plug is the 3rd safety feature of the Atwood water heater. It's designed to blow if the other two safety features I covered fail if to much pressure builds up in the water heater. It's a special hollow nylon plug and yes they are in my Amazon Store.
Great info and I have never done this so Ill do it in the next 2 weeks. its a 3 year old water heater and I never have done this but its now on my schedule every 6 months. Thanks
This is the same annual service you'd perform on a Suburban Water Heater-EXCEPT-with a Suburban, you'd also replace the anode rod. An Atwood water heater does NOT use an anode rod. If your interested in the camera I used to inspect the water heater-which I also use in many other applications-you can find it in my Amazon Store in the TOOLS category. www.amazon.com/shop/rvstreet The Atwood Water Heater tank has a clad aluminum lining that protects against corrosion therefore doesn’t require a anode rod. A Suburban Water Heater does require an anode rod because it’s made of steel. This feature alone makes the Atwood a much better choice in my opinion and is one less thing to buy and change out periodically. However, both the Atwood and the Suburban Water Heater still need this flushing with white vinegar and service of the other areas I covered, to keep them in top working order and extend their life. “You guys can do this”. Now go get your water heater “MARTINIZED”. 👍 Concerning the Nylon Plug being the 3rd safety feature. I didn't mention what it actually does like I did on the other 2 safety features. Don't know how I missed that but.... The nylon plug is a backup safety feature. The plug is hollow on the inside so it's designed to blow out if the primary safety feature-the high pressure valve-fails for whatever reason. As I showed in this video, since I have cleaned and removed the debris that was causing my initial leak in the water heater threads where the nylon plug screws into, I have gone back to the Nylon Plug and now do not experience any leaks.
Very informative. Just a heads up on Dielectric grease: it is non-conductive and should be added after connections are made. This will help prevent corrosion and still keep fittings easier to dis/connect.
Way to go Joni! A steady hand with the camera! And Martin .... you sir are like a hot water tank surgeon! But ya kinda of remind me of a actor off a series show🤔..... Walter ! Except we’ll change the name to Breaking Mineral Water Deposits! 👍🇨🇦stay safe you guys we just love the info on all your tips of keeping our homes on wheels working !
@@RVstreet awesome Martin! Are you and Joni staying at home for now? As for us our 5er is ready to come home from the dealership, it’s been there since November ugh , we had book two weeks at our favourite private camp ground but due to the travel restrictions that our provincial government just put in place we had to cancel ! There goes another year! The both of us are city transit drivers and can only book holidays based on seniority once a year and a year in advance ! As we all hope and pray for this covid 19 to be done with you two should plan on a cross country trip and come up to our beautiful British Columbia province ! Our dream trip is head up to the Yukon & Alaska some day LOL ! Stay safe Dr. RV Walter! 👍🇨🇦
@@johnmclaren7059 Well we're always home 😜 We're full timers in our coach remember? So ya we're staying home alright. 😝 We left RGV about 2 weeks ago and we're now in SC and heading to Maine for the summer. Will be there in July. You said: our 5er is ready to come home from the dealership, it’s been there since November...OMG yeah no, that would never work for us. Someday we'd like to make our way up to BC. We'll C.
@@RVstreet thanks for the reply Martin! Happy that you and Joni are still rolling on the road! As for us it’s a staycation here since our province has a travel ban , once our 5er Jenny is ready to come home we will see if the ban will be lifted and we can get back into rving again! Stay safe guys !👍
Great video. In version 1.0 you had changed to a brass plug, but in version 2.0 you are back to using the plastic plugs. What’s the reason for going back to the plastic?
Thank you,good video and very informative. I have been having problems with the plastic drain plug leaking, going to check to see if it is the threads on the tank that are clogged up like you suggested.
Argh, so glad I came across this video how-to. No idea, I just figured I had to replace the anode, oh wait, my Dometic doesn't have an electrode, Yeah I'm good to go! But wait not so fast. I checked out the manual and sure enough there is a flush sequence in the manual, but not really listed as a periodic maintenance item, just something to do to get rid of rotten egg smell. So now on to cleaning and flushing. I take it once you pour in the vinegar and hot up the heater for the 24 hour chemical soak, you never use hot water in your coach for the soak period, that would cause the solution to get diluted, correct. Thanks again.
The vinegar doesn't need to sit and cook for 24hrs. 8hrs. is enough. And no it won't get diluted. The 50/50 mix will stay 50/50 thru out the process. As I said in the video, what I normally do is after dinner and all dishes and everything else is pretty much done for the evening, THEN I add the vinegar, turn on the water heater and let it cook all night while were sleeping. Then in the morning I drain and finish up everything else. Doing it this way we don't experience any hot water disruption. The manual may not list this as a PM item but trust me it is. If you don't treat it as a PM item it won't last nearly as long as it should and won't work nearly as efficient.
You make me glad I have a Suburban water heater rather than an Atwood. Easier maintenance due to the anode/drain plug. Just clean the burner tube, flush out the tank and keep a spare anode handy. Scale forms quickly so why bother with vinegar treatments? Just flush it often. I can stick my finger in the drain hole and keep flushing it until I can't feel any more scale, and the deposits I get up here in NY seems to be mostly calcium, some magnesium, and light brown sand.
Q) Scale forms quickly so why bother with vinegar treatments? A) Because those mineral deposits will form and stick to the walls of the water heater and other places too. The vinegar acidity breaks it all apart and thoroughly cleans the water heater. Vinegar is an essential step to clean the water heater correctly. thx William 👍
Hi Martin. I clean and flush my Atwood heater annually. I would di it more frequently if we used our trailer frequently. My suggestion is that instead of using 2 of the flushing attachments, I drain the vinegar solution and then remove the high pressure valve again and flush from the top down as well as from the drain plug. It seems to get a better flush for me.
Good for you. That's a great practice. Ya I suppose you could do that. What ever it takes to remove all the dissolved sediment works for me. There's always more ways than one to accomplish the desired goal. 🔧 👍
Excellent- as always! I have a 24 year old Dutchstar with a 6 gallon water heater, I have tried to flush it out and replaced the anodise rod, now its going to get the Martinizing treatment next with white vinegar, am a little concerned at whether I will have a water heater at all when its finished with the vinegar! Thanks Again! Dsl Dr
Thanks for the video! Just got done cleaning out my tank. I did the air gap thing but now when I shut off my water pump then turn on the water it flows without the pump on. I made sure the pump is off because no motor sound. What the heck is going on? Do I need a new pressure valve?
Thanks Martin, Can you tell me why do I hear a high pitch sound from my water heater when I turn it on NOW after putting in a New heater Element ? W.G.
WOW - tank heater servicing is complete and boy did it spit out some serious brine/sentiment build up. My asphalt driveway looks like someone put salt rocks on it.
Help needed… my water heater relief valve looks like it is glued in with pipe cement or something brown . I couldn’t get the relief valve removed. I got the vinegar and water in through the winterizing system on my RV.
HEB sells a 9% white vinegar which I used in my last flush vs the standard 5%. I took the fundamentals course at the NRVTA in Athens, Tx and the instructor said to use 2 gallons of 30% with 4 gals of water. But 30% is $20 per gal at Home Depot. Not being a full timer, I went with the 9% stuff.
Ya I hear ya, but personally, I don't think strength really matters much and especially when you do it often like I do and have a water softener. Traveling around the country, I never know what strength I'll be able to find. I just grab what's available. Usually @ Walmart, $5 or so for 3 gallons, but I have picked up what you did at HEB when we're in Texas. We love HEB. So using a 50/50 mixture and cooking it for 24hrs. with that acidity and the heat, it always comes out clean as the camera verifies. thx for your input Charles 🔧 👍
You do a Great job explaining the process. It was very detailed and I learned a couple things. I own a endoscope and never thought about using it for checking out my water heater! Did you use regular white vinegar or the stronger cleaning type of white vinegar? Thankyou!
Thank you for the video. Looking at purchasing the endoscope but wonder if I should get one for viewing on an iPhone. I am also a Mac computer user, too. Wondering if the bigger image on the Mac would be more beneficial than a smaller one on the iPhone.
Just wondering if i sould replace our atwood relief valve because of the calcium deposit around the relief valve spring. Can i put a dometic relief valve or should i use an atwood product.We just bought our 1995 vectra 34a in mint condition and we want to make sure that i don't damage the water tank lol thanks Martin
I'd just replace it. They're cheap. Just remove the HP valve, take it to Home Depot, match it up with same type and replace it. Be sure to turn the water heater off, let it cool down, relieve any pressure by opening any hot water side faucet inside the coach until no water comes out and then remove it. Remove the old one put a little teflon tape on the new one and install.
Ref. the 2nd wand: Is there some reason you simply didn't take out the relief value and use the original wand to flush, as the relief valve is on the "other side" from the drain plug?. Seems like a 2nd wand and all the bending is much more difficult than just doing that. Am I missing something...?
Spray on protectant for what? Do you mean for the electrical connections? If so that is in the "Sealants, Lubes and Protectants" category in my store. When you go to any page in my Amazon store like you said there's a lot of products there that I use. In the lower right hand corner of each product just hover over the little info box and my description text will explain what I use that product for. My main store link: www.amazon.com/shop/rvstreet Here's a short cut link for now for those 2 electrical protectant products so you don't have to go back and read each product: • Spray protectant: www.amazon.com/dp/B0013J7RAI?linkCode=ssc&tag=onamzrvstreet-20&creativeASIN=B0013J7RAI&asc_item-id=amzn1.ideas.3TFZBP7BI1XMD&ref_=aip_sf_list_spv_ofs_mixed_d_asin • Dielectric grease - www.amazon.com/dp/B0788Y4SN8?linkCode=ssc&tag=onamzrvstreet-20&creativeASIN=B0788Y4SN8&asc_item-id=amzn1.ideas.3TFZBP7BI1XMD&ref_=aip_sf_list_spv_ofs_mixed_d_asin thx Rhoda for letting my clarify that for you and others that may read your question 👍
Fabulous information. I had no idea we were supposed to do this stuff. You mention a water softener. Do you have one for your RV or are talking about your home softener? Do you also filter the water before filling up the fresh water tank?
Thanks Guy, Yes and OH YES. We don't have a house anymore. We are full timers so our RV is our home. I really emphasize having safe, clean, good tasting water throughout the RV. Having a water softener is essential in an RV or it's only a matter of time before hard water and mineral deposits begins to wreak havoc on the entire plumbing system and appliances. Here's a link to one of my PLAYLIST page that covers everything about water: ruclips.net/p/PLkQXtMp9xodT-mrqODN1IH_B2ZAJJ--1c Here's another link to all all my PLAYLISTS where videos are in different categories: ruclips.net/user/RVstreetplaylists My YT Channel home page: ruclips.net/user/RVstreet
I saw a video from someone that said the RV appliance makers state that we shouldn't be installing insect screens on these appliances like water heaters, furnaces, and refrigerators, because they disrupt the air flow to them. He showed a demo how placing one of these water heater insect screens in front of a fan and it reduced the air flow by more 30% as I recall. I was all set to install them on my rig until I saw that video. What are your thoughts on this?
Nonsense. If he wanted to prove air disruption, why didn't he do it with the fridge and water heater door which would be easy to do. If you don't install screens you'll have a much bigger problems. Just look at other RVers around you.
Well, I explained that briefly in the video but futrther explained why I went back in the very first comment that I pinned under the video. But here it is again: Concerning the Nylon Plug being the 3rd safety feature. I didn't mention what it actually does like I did on the other 2 safety features. Don't know how I missed that but.... The nylon plug is a backup safety feature. The plug is hollow on the inside so it's designed to blow out if the primary safety feature-the high pressure valve-fails for whatever reason. As I showed in this video, since I have cleaned and removed the debris that was causing my initial leak in the water heater threads where the nylon plug screws into, I have gone back to the Nylon Plug and now do not experience any leaks. thx Rob 👍
Martin- I have watched both videos and have implemented the same regimen. Thanks for updating with more info on cleaning the electrical contacts. Just did it today. Worked like a charm. I have a question, what is the best practice regarding the water heater- turn on 15-20 minutes before use or leave on constantly? I have an Atwood with both the electric and propane options. I mainly use electric as we are in RV Parks 90% of the time. Thank you ahead of time for your answer.
Well ya know....there's a lot of opinions about that. Some people will say, "do you turn your water heater OFF at your house when not using it"? Which IMO opinion is a short sighted answer. It's not comparing apples to apples. Most RV water heaters are a lot smaller than a house one and a different type. If a water heater goes out at the house it's usually very accessible and quite easy to replace. With an RV....not so much. So for those reasons alone we don't leave the water heater on all day. There's no need to be keeping it ON all day which is also using the heating element and other components. Our practice usually is, if we're going to take a shower, we'll turn it ON with electric for about 20-30 minutes in the morning, then turn it OFF. For showers, we'll adjust accordingly. We have hot water all day and into the evening till bed. We rarely use propane because you know I don't like using propane. I like to make my propane tank last as long as possible. Even while boon docking or mooch docking I still use electric to heat the water heater.
Man, do you guys make good How-To videos! Question, in the first video you showed a brass drain plug. Is there a reason you switched back to using the OEM type plug?
Another awesome video which was really enhanced by the endoscope demonstrating the effectiveness of the treatment. However,there are specific products made to clean electrical contact points but I noticed that you prefer the brake cleaner by CRC. Have you had any issues with using CRC to clean electrical contact over time? Do you use the brake cleaner to clean the power cord contacts on your rig? Thanks, and enjoy your coffee.
I know there are specific products made to clean electrical contact points, but I've been using brake cleaner on electrical contacts for years and have never experienced any issues. I use it for many different things. That way I only have to carry one type of cleaner. On my power cord I don't use any cleaner, brake cleaner or otherwise. But about twice a year, I use a piece of 120 grit sand paper, and gently clean the prongs and then apply a thin coat of dielectric grease. I do the same thing with all my reducers (dog bones) and extension cords.
I have two questions. 1) in your prior video on cleaning the tank, you had switched from a nylon plug to a brass plug. In this video, you have a nylon plug, is there a reason you switched back to the nylon? 2) could I use white cleaning vinegar? it has 1% more acidity but is supposed to be 20% more effective.
In the first video I showed the brass plug because at the time I couldn't get the nylon one to seal properly. In the 2nd video I showed how I discovered mineral deposits that we're embedded in the threads and once I cleaned those out I could go back to the nylon plug and it seated properly. The nylon plug is the 3rd safety feature of the Atwood water heater. It's designed to blow if the other two safety features I covered fail if to much pressure builds up in the water heater. It's a special hollow nylon plug and yes they are in my Amazon Store. www.amazon.com/shop/rvstreet Yes you should use white vinegar like I did in the video.
Hey, Martin. Great video. I am following your instructions now but have a question. I am at the step where I added the three gallons of vinegar. My question is: to fill the remainder with water, do I need to have my bypass valves open to fill it? I am not quite sure what to do next. I turned my bypass valves on because when I drained, I left them open, and water kept pouring out. Thanks for any help you can provide. You have a new subscriber.
You leave the valves in the normal position. You don't want to bypass. Once vinegar is added just turn on the city water until the water heater is full of water. If you want to verify that the water heater is full, turn on any faucet on the hot side in the RV and you'll smell vinegar as water starts to come out. Once the water heater is full of water & vinegar turn it ON and let it cook.
I purchased a used Itasca Sunrise Motorhome. Trying to follow your instruction, I discovered that I have a metal anode rod plug rather than a plastic plug as you describe. Am I supposed to be using a plastic water heater plug? I do have an Atwood 10 gallon water heater.
Atwood water heaters DO NOT have an anode rod. The previous owner didn't know what he was doing. Yes you should have the proper Nylon plug in there because it's also acts as a safety feature if pressure should ever get to high and other safety features fail. If you want, I have the proper plugs in my Amazon Store in the "Everything Water and Sewer" category. www.amazon.com/shop/rvstreet EDIT: I don't know if you have your manual or not but I thought I'd give you a link to one JIC. manuals.heartlandowners.org/manuals/Plumbing/Wtr_Heater/Atwood/Atwood%20Water%20Heater%20Service%20Manual.pdf
Martin, the manual for my suburban water heater says not to remove the pressure valve. Do u recommend an alternative method of filling it with vinegar/water, or can I go ahead & fill it through the top, pressure regulator hole?
I don't know why they would say that. Servicing that HP valve is a PM item. Your have to remove it to replace it if necessary also. You could flip the valves on your wintering kit, put the hose directly into the vinegar jugs and use the water pump to get vinegar into the water heater. To much hassle for my liking. Since you have a suburban be sure to also replace the anode rod afterwards. Hope this helps.
I have a 2017 Coachmen trailer. I always drain my hot water heater. I've never done the vinegar flush. Is it a danger to do it not since it's never been done? Am I risking a leak?
I have a 2019 Jayco with an Atwood water heater. Do you still use anode rods with aluminum tanks? There is nothing in the manual. The drain plug is currently just a plastic cap.
Atwood water heaters DO NOT use a anode rod, but you need to use the right kind of plug b/c it's one of 3 safety features if pressure builds up to high. I have the right plugs in my Amazon store in the "Everything Water & Sewer category". www.amazon.com/shop/rvstreet
There are a lot of teachers, but being a GREAT teacher is truly a gift. YOU are a great teacher!
I can’t get over how well you present this subject. I’m a single mom of three that own a 2000 National Tropical gasser. It’s not been maintained in the last couple of years but I have slowly been performing my own maintenance thanks to you and Joanie. I appreciate everything the both of you teach us and help us Rvers with. I’m able to spend quality time with my children while traveling with the military. I’m grateful for you both! Excellent presentation!
Hey Martin, I'm somewhat new to the rv lifestyle. But I'm not new to being able to maintain and fix things. I have watched, and learned an amazing amount of information from you, with the assistance of Jonie. I want to thank you for the service that you provide on RUclips. You are a treasure trove of information. Keep up the good work. Jonesy
Super Job
Even better than most
Instructional video s.
Good Work!
Glad you liked it
@19:00 we don’t get tired of you mentioning that you clean out your water heater and have a water softener. Keep reminding us. It keeps newbie RVers like me conscious of those things. Keep it up
I don't usually make comments in social media but your presentation and way of communicating is top notch. After 18years of civilian schools and then military you are in the top 1% of my former instructors. Thank You
WOW, thank you for that Wayne. 🔧 👍
Now that’s a high praise comment! Martin this Wayne guy is a keeper!
Great job Martin explaining this necessary maintenance. Kudos to Joni for her great camera work.
Great information. I've watched other similar videos, but yours is so much more detailed.
Greetings from an Englishman 🇬🇧! You are am amazing RV Engineer! ☺
A+...As Always!!!!
Whatching your videos is like a Free RV Course...Good Stuff!!!
You are so educational and it is people like you that inspire DIY projects. Thank you. Love your channel!
Thank you so much Susan. It's comments like yours that keeps us going. ❤️
Bi-Annual! You always have the best information and videos in maintaining our RV's! Thanks and keep your RV on the road!
SO many great pearls in every one of your how-to videos! Thoroughly enjoy! Thanks Martin!
As always, detailed, informative and plainly put! Thanks Martin.
Martin, great maintance video. Great job Joni on operating the video.
I do want to do it myself ! With your videos I believe I have the advantage I need to accomplish my goal! Thank you very kindly for your diligence and clear instructions. Shalam
You can do it, I know you can.👍
@@RVstreet Thank you, May YAH increase your boarders!
Nice demo Martin. I like the endoscope adder, super cool to see the difference before and after.
Wow, I never knew what I didn't know about my water heater until I saw this video! This is excellent preventive maintenance. With the cost of a replacement water heater you can't afford to not do this. Keep the great videos coming Martin, and kudos to Joanie's camera work!! BTW, the new logo is great....and spot on.
Thanks Michael so much. 🔧 👍
You're the first one to notice and comment on the opening logo piece.
hey people , do as martin states , he knows his stuff , and if your atwood water heater has moto aid , a system were engine coolant heats the water in the water heater , as well as 110 /LP / heating, take care of your water heater , the atwood company was bought out by dometic , and they have no water heaters with a heat exchangers/ motor aid , a very poor idea on the dometics part if you ask me, so listen to martin, in my book, he walks on water
I can’t thank you enough for these videos. We recently bought a 2008 Winnebago Sightseer 30B. We got it home and found it needs a ton of work (most of which is just servicing and maintenance) so I took it to the professionals for this (since there were no service records). Now that these items have been done by the pros, I have things that I am learning from you for PM and repairs and upgrades. You have superior videos with fantastic instructions for newbies like me. Thank you and Joanie for your work! Cheers
Glad my vid's have helped you. You can to do 80% - 90% of the maintenance needed on your RV and save a boat load of money.
I can't thank you enough for watching. Always happy to help other RVer's. 👍
BTW....have you seen this PLAYLIST yet? ruclips.net/p/PLkQXtMp9xodR-PDUkTg936iZAeMuOqwnj
Oh, I forgot to add to my previous comment that I am also 76 years old and have multiple sclerosis and severe arthritis. But God has been good; I can still basically function. That’s why I enjoy your videos so much because you take your time. I live alone and do not have any family close by to help out. And yes I do climb on top of my motorhome. I loved the video on maintaining the air conditioner that was wonderful!Thank you again!
"And yes I do climb on top of my motorhome".......
WOW...you go girl.
No, thank you. 💗
love your videos! I'm a great fan of DIY, but you show more than the standard tips and tricks. I greatly appreciate them!
Glad you like them!
Wow thank you for the video, I've drained the water heater a couple of times in the last two years (It's a 2018 RV) and definitely had seen minerals come out but thought that was good enough. Did it your way and got out the same kind of junk as in your video. Now that I know how to do it thanks to you it will be on my maintenance list.
Fantastic! Thanks for taking the time to put this together, both of you!
Another great video, Martin!! - You save folks a lot of money with your tutorials. Keep up the great work you two. Joni is a great Videographer!
Ya, she's taken a BIG load off my shoulders and now I can focus on what I have to do.
I am very grateful for your videos. Mainly because I’m on a very fixed income; I am a very arthritic female and I cannot afford to have other people do these things for me. However I have a 1991 Ford E350 7.5 L engine Class C and it has been worked on by so many different people for so many years that wiring isn’t correct
; new appliances were not always installed correctly, and things are just not correct with systems. I have finally managed to get the engine in tiptop shape and new tires and new shocks but there’s so many other problems that I just have to trial and error fix them by myself. I just had paid someone $300 to install a 1500 W inverter on my auxiliary battery. Within two months the converter did not work because he had sold me a rain damaged converter as new. So it’s stuff like that that has just so disheartened me. I cannot afford a new motorhome. I have to continue to piecemeal this one. Your videos and the equipment you use and the supplies you use have been extremely helpful. The part of your videos that I would love to see more information is the size of the tools wrenches or whatever that you use for the different size nuts and bolts and whatever. I have diminished eyesight and it’s extremely hard for me to tell at a glance what size I’m using. And I like to paint the size on the socket or ranch itself. But it would be helpful to know exactly what size wrench you’re using or socket etc.I hope to watch many more videos in the years that I have left! Most of my systems do not match up with these newer systems therefore I have a lot of difficulty trying to figure out exactly what wire goes to what system so forth and so on. However I do find your videos very informative and I have been able to utilize quite a few of them with a lot of hunting and pecking on my part, so to speak. Anyway I’m very grateful that you publish these for people like me that do not have the funds to buy everything that is needed. I make do with a lot of things and I do very well and I can usually get something fixed. But your information has been extremely helpful and I appreciate the close-ups of everything that don’t have your hands in the way. So thank you very much. I have subscribed to your channel and I hope I can see many more great videos! Now if you could just show how to fix structural damage like a hole or some rotted areas I would be even more grateful! :) Again, thank you very much!
WOW, what can I say Carolyn.
Thank you for sharing your story.
Your comment once again reinforces to me who a lot of our audience is and how we need to shoot these video's. Slow, close up, explain well what I'm doing and why. I promise I'll always try to keep these in mind when putting future videos together. Just going out to our coach and fixing something is easy. Fixing it, shooting it and explaining it on camera is a whole different animal. I have to constantly keep in mind what people want and need to see.
When I read this: "Within two months the converter did not work because he had sold me a rain damaged converter as new". That kinda stuff makes me mad. That's just not right.
But I will say, your tenaciousness to get done what your able to get done is admirable. I'm glad our channel has played a small part in helping you figure things out. 💗
I bought a used RV. I am cooking mine now . Will flush out in the.morning. really is easy to do. The pressure release valve was the original and it was a bear to remove. Got new one. Thanks for the video Martin.
thank you for all you great instructions!
Martinization complete!!! Another great video guys! Retirement countdown is 2!!!
So close! 🎈 🎈 👏 🎈 🎈
Perfect timing! I need to do this for the used RV we just got.
Absolutely fantastic tips and tricks! I have a subscription to another site that I pay for that has a very large video library and your hot water maintenance video is far superior in so many ways. Nobody covers all the little details like you do. Keep doing what you!!
Thank you Brad you so much. 🙏
Thank you. Keep up the good work. Take care.
Martinized!! Love it
Like the updated maintenance video, remember and liked the other video just as well 👊🏼👊🏼👊🏼
Good job. Well done. Tomorrow I clean the water heater!
just seen your video on cleaning your water heater. 6 months from now I will be doing the Hot Water cleaning on my NEW Water heater.
Martin, I really enjoy your DIY videos and tips. This comment has nothing to do with any of your ideas or upgrades. There are many videos that suggest "must haves" for your RV but none mention what I consider a must have. I carry a AED, automatic external defibrillator. The camp grounds we stay in rarely have one at the office or camp store, and we are usually quite a distance for EMS folks to travel. I have a sticker on the front windshield indicating that we have an AED for fellow campers if it might be needed. Yes it is expensive... but it could save a life... mine or a fellow RV'er
Good comment Docks.
A big round of applause for Joni.
👏😃
Great video Martin. Another detailed instructional tutorial.
your the boss my man! experience has it's rewards thanks for sharing
Great video as usual winter martini izing 🍸🍸🍸🍸🍸. Don’t leave home without it...😂❤️👍🇺🇸
Excellent video! I've owned my 2011 trailer since 2019 and never done this. I will do it in October before I put 'er away for the winter
just did the tank followed your instructions. for a guy who cannot hammer two pieces of wood together. This project went perfect. Everything you said happened. . When you come to Canada the Ribbeyes are on us.
Thanks
OMG....we LUV Rib Eyes on the grill. Especially with good marbling and fat around the edges. Hmmmmmm....yum, yum.
Thank you MUB. 🇨🇦 🇺🇸 💗
After adding the water softener this past season (per your recommendation - my hard water pieces were greatly reduced!). Thanks for all the good tips. Safe Travels as you head out this season!
Thank You so much for making such excellent videos, I am extremely grateful for you guys, fantastic information
Another awesome video buddy
Great video. I also have an Atwood. Will be doing same. Thanks Don
Wow, what a great video. Thank you!
Excellent Martin,
Another great educational video! Well done. Timely for me While traveling we experienced the regular weekly RV component failure this past weekend. Most times we use the electric side for water heating. This week though I wanted to run the gas side to expedite water heat recovery. Naturally it did not come on and work as I seem to need to have something go wrong with the rig each week LOL!. Never could get it to fire. I think I'm not getting spark. So today's project is to clean and overhaul the water heater to see if I can get her to fire up. Ours is an Atwood 10 gal. On ours, WBGO decided to make access to the WH so attractive with an outside swing up body panel covering and blocking the WH. Its so nicely designed to raise up above the WH to access the inner door panel so that it will fall on your head whenever working on the component. In my case water heater repair and maintenance is hard hat work!! Safe travels. Thank you Joanie and Martin for your good work on these videos!
Love your humor.
Martin, I watched the first one and found it helpful. I watched this one and found it to be 100% better. So much more informative and by including the borescope you gave first hand evidence of how well this works. We got a new class C in December and I thought I'd give it a try. Couldn't be that bad right after only 9 months right? WRONG!!! I was shocked at the amount of little white turds I got out of my water heater tank. You convinced me mate. Now a part of my quarterly maintenance routine. OBTW I did take your advice and bought the air compressor from your store. So just wanted to say thanks. Happy travels my friend.
I know right. Those mineral deposits build up fast and especially if you don't have a water softener. Good Job! 👍 And thank you Chief so much for supporting us using our Amazon Store. It means more to Joanie & I than you know. 🙏
@@RVstreet can I ask a question? In your previous vid on this topic you spoke of replacing the nylon plug with a brass plug. This one you went back to the nylon plug. Is there a reason? I hope you don't mind me picking your brain but your info is so helpful, your like my go to encyclopedia for RV maintenance. Thanks in advance Martin.
@@chief7839 In the first video I showed the brass plug because at the time I couldn't get the nylon one to seal properly. In the 2nd video I showed how I discovered mineral deposits that we're embedded in the threads and once I cleaned those out I could go back to the nylon plug and it seated properly. The nylon plug is the 3rd safety feature of the Atwood water heater. It's designed to blow if the other two safety features I covered fail if to much pressure builds up in the water heater. It's a special hollow nylon plug and yes they are in my Amazon Store.
@@RVstreet cool deal Martin. Thank you
@@chief7839 👍
Would love to see the Propane side maintenance as well. Great job on the video, job well done by both of you!
Not sure if I can do this, But thanks to you and Joni giving this very informative video, I am sure going to try it. Thanks to you both!
You can do this! 👍
Great info and I have never done this so Ill do it in the next 2 weeks. its a 3 year old water heater and I never have done this but its now on my schedule every 6 months. Thanks
Smart 😜
This is the same annual service you'd perform on a Suburban Water Heater-EXCEPT-with a Suburban, you'd also replace the anode rod. An Atwood water heater does NOT use an anode rod.
If your interested in the camera I used to inspect the water heater-which I also use in many other applications-you can find it in my Amazon Store in the TOOLS category.
www.amazon.com/shop/rvstreet
The Atwood Water Heater tank has a clad aluminum lining that protects against corrosion therefore doesn’t require a anode rod. A Suburban Water Heater does require an anode rod because it’s made of steel. This feature alone makes the Atwood a much better choice in my opinion and is one less thing to buy and change out periodically. However, both the Atwood and the Suburban Water Heater still need this flushing with white vinegar and service of the other areas I covered, to keep them in top working order and extend their life. “You guys can do this”. Now go get your water heater “MARTINIZED”. 👍
Concerning the Nylon Plug being the 3rd safety feature. I didn't mention what it actually does like I did on the other 2 safety features. Don't know how I missed that but....
The nylon plug is a backup safety feature.
The plug is hollow on the inside so it's designed to blow out if the primary safety feature-the high pressure valve-fails for whatever reason.
As I showed in this video, since I have cleaned and removed the debris that was causing my initial leak in the water heater threads where the nylon plug screws into, I have gone back to the Nylon Plug and now do not experience any leaks.
About the nylon plug issue, sounds like a coincidental “excuse” to me. Are you sponsored by Atwood somehow ?
@@jrm163 It's not a coincidental “excuse”. It's the way it is. No I am not sponsored.
A very helpful and informative video. Thanks!
Thanks for the lesson...another great job!
Very informative. Just a heads up on Dielectric grease: it is non-conductive and should be added after connections are made. This will help prevent corrosion and still keep fittings easier to dis/connect.
*Infinite thumbs up!!* 💖👍🏽
Great video I am doing this very soon. Thank you
Great job as always!
I did it - cool its cooking now with the vinager and water mix 50 50 - tommorow afternoon its getting flushed as you said.
Way to go Shawn 😀 It wasn't hard to do either was it?
@@RVstreet Your right it was a bit difficult for me but I did it - thanks for your help brother
@@ShawnLivesInItaly 🔧👍
Way to go Joni! A steady hand with the camera! And Martin .... you sir are like a hot water tank surgeon! But ya kinda of remind me of a actor off a series show🤔..... Walter ! Except we’ll change the name to Breaking Mineral Water Deposits! 👍🇨🇦stay safe you guys we just love the info on all your tips of keeping our homes on wheels working !
OK love that.
From now on, just call me Dr. RV Walter
@@RVstreet awesome Martin! Are you and Joni staying at home for now? As for us our 5er is ready to come home from the dealership, it’s been there since November ugh , we had book two weeks at our favourite private camp ground but due to the travel restrictions that our provincial government just put in place we had to cancel ! There goes another year! The both of us are city transit drivers and can only book holidays based on seniority once a year and a year in advance ! As we all hope and pray for this covid 19 to be done with you two should plan on a cross country trip and come up to our beautiful British Columbia province ! Our dream trip is head up to the Yukon & Alaska some day LOL ! Stay safe Dr. RV Walter! 👍🇨🇦
@@johnmclaren7059 Well we're always home 😜 We're full timers in our coach remember? So ya we're staying home alright. 😝 We left RGV about 2 weeks ago and we're now in SC and heading to Maine for the summer. Will be there in July.
You said: our 5er is ready to come home from the dealership, it’s been there since November...OMG yeah no, that would never work for us.
Someday we'd like to make our way up to BC. We'll C.
@@RVstreet thanks for the reply Martin! Happy that you and Joni are still rolling on the road! As for us it’s a staycation here since our province has a travel ban , once our 5er Jenny is ready to come home we will see if the ban will be lifted and we can get back into rving again! Stay safe guys !👍
Great video tks for all do. Hope your health is good.👍
I am sad to say that Martin has passed away 💔
Great video. In version 1.0 you had changed to a brass plug, but in version 2.0 you are back to using the plastic plugs. What’s the reason for going back to the plastic?
Thank you,good video and very informative. I have been having problems with the plastic drain plug leaking, going to check to see if it is the threads on the tank that are clogged up like you suggested.
Glad you saw that little tip. 👍
Argh, so glad I came across this video how-to. No idea, I just figured I had to replace the anode, oh wait, my Dometic doesn't have an electrode, Yeah I'm good to go! But wait not so fast. I checked out the manual and sure enough there is a flush sequence in the manual, but not really listed as a periodic maintenance item, just something to do to get rid of rotten egg smell. So now on to cleaning and flushing. I take it once you pour in the vinegar and hot up the heater for the 24 hour chemical soak, you never use hot water in your coach for the soak period, that would cause the solution to get diluted, correct.
Thanks again.
The vinegar doesn't need to sit and cook for 24hrs. 8hrs. is enough. And no it won't get diluted. The 50/50 mix will stay 50/50 thru out the process. As I said in the video, what I normally do is after dinner and all dishes and everything else is pretty much done for the evening, THEN I add the vinegar, turn on the water heater and let it cook all night while were sleeping. Then in the morning I drain and finish up everything else. Doing it this way we don't experience any hot water disruption.
The manual may not list this as a PM item but trust me it is. If you don't treat it as a PM item it won't last nearly as long as it should and won't work nearly as efficient.
You make me glad I have a Suburban water heater rather than an Atwood. Easier maintenance due to the anode/drain plug. Just clean the burner tube, flush out the tank and keep a spare anode handy. Scale forms quickly so why bother with vinegar treatments? Just flush it often. I can stick my finger in the drain hole and keep flushing it until I can't feel any more scale, and the deposits I get up here in NY seems to be mostly calcium, some magnesium, and light brown sand.
Q) Scale forms quickly so why bother with vinegar treatments?
A) Because those mineral deposits will form and stick to the walls of the water heater and other places too. The vinegar acidity breaks it all apart and thoroughly cleans the water heater. Vinegar is an essential step to clean the water heater correctly.
thx William 👍
Hi Martin. I clean and flush my Atwood heater annually. I would di it more frequently if we used our trailer frequently. My suggestion is that instead of using 2 of the flushing attachments, I drain the vinegar solution and then remove the high pressure valve again and flush from the top down as well as from the drain plug. It seems to get a better flush for me.
Good for you. That's a great practice.
Ya I suppose you could do that. What ever it takes to remove all the dissolved sediment works for me. There's always more ways than one to accomplish the desired goal. 🔧 👍
Excellent- as always! I have a 24 year old Dutchstar with a 6 gallon water heater, I have tried to flush it out and replaced the anodise rod, now its going to get the Martinizing treatment next with white vinegar, am a little concerned at whether I will have a water heater at all when its finished with the vinegar!
Thanks Again!
Dsl Dr
very good info
Thanks for the video! Just got done cleaning out my tank. I did the air gap thing but now when I shut off my water pump then turn on the water it flows without the pump on. I made sure the pump is off because no motor sound. What the heck is going on? Do I need a new pressure valve?
Very helpful thanks
You are so helpful!!😃
Thanks Martin, Can you tell me why do I hear a high pitch sound from my water heater when I turn it on NOW after putting in a New heater Element ?
W.G.
WOW - tank heater servicing is complete and boy did it spit out some serious brine/sentiment build up. My asphalt driveway looks like someone put salt rocks on it.
I know right? Great job Dan. Spread the news. People NEED TO DO THIS. 🔧 👍
Martin, great video on your hot water maintenance. How about maintenance on a tankless hot water heater.
Hank F.
Not sure about that. Sorry
Help needed… my water heater relief valve looks like it is glued in with pipe cement or something brown . I couldn’t get the relief valve removed.
I got the vinegar and water in through the winterizing system on my RV.
I am sorry you are having this trouble but I am sad to say that Martin has passed away and I don't have the answer to your problem. Sorry
HEB sells a 9% white vinegar which I used in my last flush vs the standard 5%. I took the fundamentals course at the NRVTA in Athens, Tx and the instructor said to use 2 gallons of 30% with 4 gals of water. But 30% is $20 per gal at Home Depot. Not being a full timer, I went with the 9% stuff.
Ya I hear ya, but personally, I don't think strength really matters much and especially when you do it often like I do and have a water softener. Traveling around the country, I never know what strength I'll be able to find. I just grab what's available. Usually @ Walmart, $5 or so for 3 gallons, but I have picked up what you did at HEB when we're in Texas. We love HEB. So using a 50/50 mixture and cooking it for 24hrs. with that acidity and the heat, it always comes out clean as the camera verifies.
thx for your input Charles 🔧 👍
Where do you buy the plastic replacement plug and what it the item number or description? Great video!
There in my Amazon Store in the "Everything Water and Sewer" category.
www.amazon.com/shop/rvstreet
You do a Great job explaining the process. It was very detailed and I learned a couple things. I own a endoscope and never thought about using it for checking out my water heater! Did you use regular white vinegar or the stronger cleaning type of white vinegar? Thankyou!
Regular white vinegar @ Walmart. But you can use stronger vinegar if you can find it.
Thanks Martin, Excellent video of course! Any suggestions for maintaining a tankless water heaters?
No sorry. 😂
Thank you for the video. Looking at purchasing the endoscope but wonder if I should get one for viewing on an iPhone. I am also a Mac computer user, too. Wondering if the bigger image on the Mac would be more beneficial than a smaller one on the iPhone.
I'd use your Mac, and I have an iPhone 13 Max.
I have a 2002 Gulf Stream and it looks like your tires and rims are a match. Any idea where I can get a spare 22.5" rim
Thanks. Peter Hughes
Just wondering if i sould replace our atwood relief valve because of the calcium deposit around the relief valve spring. Can i put a dometic relief valve or should i use an atwood product.We just bought our 1995 vectra 34a in mint condition and we want to make sure that i don't damage the water tank lol thanks Martin
I'd just replace it. They're cheap. Just remove the HP valve, take it to Home Depot, match it up with same type and replace it. Be sure to turn the water heater off, let it cool down, relieve any pressure by opening any hot water side faucet inside the coach until no water comes out and then remove it. Remove the old one put a little teflon tape on the new one and install.
Ref. the 2nd wand: Is there some reason you simply didn't take out the relief value and use the original wand to flush, as the relief valve is on the "other side" from the drain plug?. Seems like a 2nd wand and all the bending is much more difficult than just doing that. Am I missing something...?
I am sad to say that Martin has passed away and I don't have the answer to your question. Sorry
Can you get the proper fitting and back flush through the relief valve? Great video thanks
You could just remove the HP valve again and flush from there with the wand if you want to.
Great information. I cannot find the list of products used? Went to the store but, there are tons of products. What is the spray on protectant?
Spray on protectant for what? Do you mean for the electrical connections? If so that is in the "Sealants, Lubes and Protectants" category in my store. When you go to any page in my Amazon store like you said there's a lot of products there that I use. In the lower right hand corner of each product just hover over the little info box and my description text will explain what I use that product for.
My main store link: www.amazon.com/shop/rvstreet
Here's a short cut link for now for those 2 electrical protectant products so you don't have to go back and read each product:
• Spray protectant: www.amazon.com/dp/B0013J7RAI?linkCode=ssc&tag=onamzrvstreet-20&creativeASIN=B0013J7RAI&asc_item-id=amzn1.ideas.3TFZBP7BI1XMD&ref_=aip_sf_list_spv_ofs_mixed_d_asin
• Dielectric grease - www.amazon.com/dp/B0788Y4SN8?linkCode=ssc&tag=onamzrvstreet-20&creativeASIN=B0788Y4SN8&asc_item-id=amzn1.ideas.3TFZBP7BI1XMD&ref_=aip_sf_list_spv_ofs_mixed_d_asin
thx Rhoda for letting my clarify that for you and others that may read your question 👍
Fabulous information. I had no idea we were supposed to do this stuff. You mention a water softener. Do you have one for your RV or are talking about your home softener? Do you also filter the water before filling up the fresh water tank?
Thanks Guy,
Yes and OH YES. We don't have a house anymore. We are full timers so our RV is our home.
I really emphasize having safe, clean, good tasting water throughout the RV. Having a water softener is essential in an RV or it's only a matter of time before hard water and mineral deposits begins to wreak havoc on the entire plumbing system and appliances.
Here's a link to one of my PLAYLIST page that covers everything about water:
ruclips.net/p/PLkQXtMp9xodT-mrqODN1IH_B2ZAJJ--1c
Here's another link to all all my PLAYLISTS where videos are in different categories:
ruclips.net/user/RVstreetplaylists
My YT Channel home page:
ruclips.net/user/RVstreet
Thanks!
Thank you so much
I saw a video from someone that said the RV appliance makers state that we shouldn't be installing insect screens on these appliances like water heaters, furnaces, and refrigerators, because they disrupt the air flow to them. He showed a demo how placing one of these water heater insect screens in front of a fan and it reduced the air flow by more 30% as I recall. I was all set to install them on my rig until I saw that video. What are your thoughts on this?
Nonsense.
If he wanted to prove air disruption, why didn't he do it with the fridge and water heater door which would be easy to do. If you don't install screens you'll have a much bigger problems. Just look at other RVers around you.
Great information... You have me sold, going to go and get some vinegar. Why did you switch back to a nylon plug?
Well, I explained that briefly in the video but futrther explained why I went back in the very first comment that I pinned under the video. But here it is again:
Concerning the Nylon Plug being the 3rd safety feature. I didn't mention what it actually does like I did on the other 2 safety features. Don't know how I missed that but....
The nylon plug is a backup safety feature.
The plug is hollow on the inside so it's designed to blow out if the primary safety feature-the high pressure valve-fails for whatever reason.
As I showed in this video, since I have cleaned and removed the debris that was causing my initial leak in the water heater threads where the nylon plug screws into, I have gone back to the Nylon Plug and now do not experience any leaks.
thx Rob 👍
Martin- I have watched both videos and have implemented the same regimen. Thanks for updating with more info on cleaning the electrical contacts. Just did it today. Worked like a charm. I have a question, what is the best practice regarding the water heater- turn on 15-20 minutes before use or leave on constantly? I have an Atwood with both the electric and propane options. I mainly use electric as we are in RV Parks 90% of the time. Thank you ahead of time for your answer.
Well ya know....there's a lot of opinions about that. Some people will say, "do you turn your water heater OFF at your house when not using it"? Which IMO opinion is a short sighted answer. It's not comparing apples to apples.
Most RV water heaters are a lot smaller than a house one and a different type. If a water heater goes out at the house it's usually very accessible and quite easy to replace. With an RV....not so much. So for those reasons alone we don't leave the water heater on all day. There's no need to be keeping it ON all day which is also using the heating element and other components.
Our practice usually is, if we're going to take a shower, we'll turn it ON with electric for about 20-30 minutes in the morning, then turn it OFF. For showers, we'll adjust accordingly. We have hot water all day and into the evening till bed. We rarely use propane because you know I don't like using propane. I like to make my propane tank last as long as possible. Even while boon docking or mooch docking I still use electric to heat the water heater.
@@RVstreet Thank you so much. Can't wait until your next post..
Man, do you guys make good How-To videos!
Question, in the first video you showed a brass drain plug. Is there a reason you switched back to using the OEM type plug?
I explained that in the very first comment of the video. Thx Bob
Another awesome video which was really enhanced by the endoscope demonstrating the effectiveness of the treatment. However,there are specific products made to clean electrical contact points but I noticed that you prefer the brake cleaner by CRC. Have you had any issues with using CRC to clean electrical contact over time? Do you use the brake cleaner to clean the power cord contacts on your rig? Thanks, and enjoy your coffee.
I know there are specific products made to clean electrical contact points, but I've been using brake cleaner on electrical contacts for years and have never experienced any issues. I use it for many different things. That way I only have to carry one type of cleaner. On my power cord I don't use any cleaner, brake cleaner or otherwise. But about twice a year, I use a piece of 120 grit sand paper, and gently clean the prongs and then apply a thin coat of dielectric grease. I do the same thing with all my reducers (dog bones) and extension cords.
@@RVstreet Thank you. I continue my quest to Martinize.
I have two questions. 1) in your prior video on cleaning the tank, you had switched from a nylon plug to a brass plug. In this video, you have a nylon plug, is there a reason you switched back to the nylon?
2) could I use white cleaning vinegar? it has 1% more acidity but is supposed to be 20% more effective.
In the first video I showed the brass plug because at the time I couldn't get the nylon one to seal properly. In the 2nd video I showed how I discovered mineral deposits that we're embedded in the threads and once I cleaned those out I could go back to the nylon plug and it seated properly. The nylon plug is the 3rd safety feature of the Atwood water heater. It's designed to blow if the other two safety features I covered fail if to much pressure builds up in the water heater. It's a special hollow nylon plug and yes they are in my Amazon Store. www.amazon.com/shop/rvstreet
Yes you should use white vinegar like I did in the video.
Hey, Martin. Great video. I am following your instructions now but have a question. I am at the step where I added the three gallons of vinegar. My question is: to fill the remainder with water, do I need to have my bypass valves open to fill it? I am not quite sure what to do next. I turned my bypass valves on because when I drained, I left them open, and water kept pouring out. Thanks for any help you can provide. You have a new subscriber.
You leave the valves in the normal position. You don't want to bypass. Once vinegar is added just turn on the city water until the water heater is full of water. If you want to verify that the water heater is full, turn on any faucet on the hot side in the RV and you'll smell vinegar as water starts to come out. Once the water heater is full of water & vinegar turn it ON and let it cook.
I purchased a used Itasca Sunrise Motorhome. Trying to follow your instruction, I discovered that I have a metal anode rod plug rather than a plastic plug as you describe. Am I supposed to be using a plastic water heater plug? I do have an Atwood 10 gallon water heater.
Atwood water heaters DO NOT have an anode rod. The previous owner didn't know what he was doing. Yes you should have the proper Nylon plug in there because it's also acts as a safety feature if pressure should ever get to high and other safety features fail.
If you want, I have the proper plugs in my Amazon Store in the "Everything Water and Sewer" category.
www.amazon.com/shop/rvstreet
EDIT: I don't know if you have your manual or not but I thought I'd give you a link to one JIC.
manuals.heartlandowners.org/manuals/Plumbing/Wtr_Heater/Atwood/Atwood%20Water%20Heater%20Service%20Manual.pdf
Martin, the manual for my suburban water heater says not to remove the pressure valve. Do u recommend an alternative method of filling it with vinegar/water, or can I go ahead & fill it through the top, pressure regulator hole?
I don't know why they would say that. Servicing that HP valve is a PM item. Your have to remove it to replace it if necessary also. You could flip the valves on your wintering kit, put the hose directly into the vinegar jugs and use the water pump to get vinegar into the water heater. To much hassle for my liking. Since you have a suburban be sure to also replace the anode rod afterwards. Hope this helps.
I have a 2017 Coachmen trailer. I always drain my hot water heater. I've never done the vinegar flush. Is it a danger to do it not since it's never been done?
Am I risking a leak?
There is no danger at all. I'm sure the water heater will love you for it.
I have a 2019 Jayco with an Atwood water heater. Do you still use anode rods with aluminum tanks? There is nothing in the manual. The drain plug is currently just a plastic cap.
Atwood water heaters DO NOT use a anode rod, but you need to use the right kind of plug b/c it's one of 3 safety features if pressure builds up to high.
I have the right plugs in my Amazon store in the "Everything Water & Sewer category".
www.amazon.com/shop/rvstreet