It's worth remembering the vast majority of shields we have evidence for from the period are only 10-12mm thick not 25mm like you said in the video. They tended taper down to around 4-6mm at the edge too. They also had leather front and rear glued on with a hide rim to stitch it all together which made them flexible and shockingly study and easy to repair. The evidence we have now for them kind of completely changed how we think about their use too. The thin edge's also make them really good at catching sharp blades. With regards to the metal rim we do actually have evidence for that but not like in the video, it tended to be small tabs folded from front to back and riveted on and made from a number of metals depending on how decorative the shield was.
To make a shield in the traditional manner would mean radial split planks from a large- old growth even- tree, making tools and fittings in a home forge. The animal rawhide required would be very labor intensive to sand it to the proper thickness. We use a lot of shortcuts and cheats to make something resembling a "Viking era" shield. I start with a luan underlayment core, glue 1/4" pine planks on front and back with water based wood glue. Then sand from center to edge to bring the edge to 3/8. Next use linen cloth soaked in the wood glue on front and back. I use forged nails in the clinch form to attach boss and handle. Then 2.5" rawhide folded over the out edge, glued and sewn. Even with all the cheats, it takes 15-20 hours of solid work to make a shield and about 125.00 in materials.
For a more "battle-worn" appearance, paint everything before doing the damage. Then rub some mud around the shield, let it sit a while and then wipe it down with a damp towel (the low moisture won't damage the wood). The mud will seep into the exposed wood but not the pained wood. Then if you want you can seal it with urethane.
Thank you for this video tutorial. I am going to be making my 10 yo a shield using scrap oak flooring salvaged from neighborhood remodeling projects. The TnG should hold together really well I think. That stump anvil is a much better design for the shield boss than I have seen other places. Still going to do the "leather wrap" on the edge though. Large dog rawhide chews are fantastic for that.
Little late to the party. As someone who shapes metal for a living, the best way, and the way a blacksmith would make a boss, is to hammer in a circle from the outside in on heated metal. For stuff like this i use 2 hammers. The peen end of one against the metal and hit the hammers face to face. Working, not forcing the metal into shape. I have an acetalene torch, but on sheet metal a good mapp gas torch works just fine.
Extra points for homemade bos. The metal rim is unlikely, common was rawhide. Also, the front would be covered in glued in linnen or leather, for strength. Still looks nice and usable. By the way, the best worn/used look you get by preparing the longboat and going out raiding. You should try it next time 😉
The boss is tough!! I have made a few and had a number of the ones I attempted tear or split while I was stretching them. Very frustrating to waste all that time and start over.
How did you make the bowl cut out of the log? I am trying to make a shield boss the same way you did but I can't figure out how to cut a nice bowl shape out of a log
some northman did have metal brasing and leather but the middle and poorer class could not afford the metal they did do the leather the other thing is that the word viking should not be ised because its a term that meams radeing and setteling and its better to say northman
Viking shields are not just one color they were a variety of colors from 2 to 5 or if your Lucky 6. Of course I admire the design of the shield just I wish I had a little more into to it. Also I don’t recommend hitting something with the large hammer. depending on how thick the metal is it could break right thorough
It's worth remembering the vast majority of shields we have evidence for from the period are only 10-12mm thick not 25mm like you said in the video. They tended taper down to around 4-6mm at the edge too. They also had leather front and rear glued on with a hide rim to stitch it all together which made them flexible and shockingly study and easy to repair.
The evidence we have now for them kind of completely changed how we think about their use too. The thin edge's also make them really good at catching sharp blades.
With regards to the metal rim we do actually have evidence for that but not like in the video, it tended to be small tabs folded from front to back and riveted on and made from a number of metals depending on how decorative the shield was.
THANK YOU for this
To make a shield in the traditional manner would mean radial split planks from a large- old growth even- tree, making tools and fittings in a home forge. The animal rawhide required would be very labor intensive to sand it to the proper thickness. We use a lot of shortcuts and cheats to make something resembling a "Viking era" shield. I start with a luan underlayment core, glue 1/4" pine planks on front and back with water based wood glue. Then sand from center to edge to bring the edge to 3/8. Next use linen cloth soaked in the wood glue on front and back. I use forged nails in the clinch form to attach boss and handle. Then 2.5" rawhide folded over the out edge, glued and sewn. Even with all the cheats, it takes 15-20 hours of solid work to make a shield and about 125.00 in materials.
For a more "battle-worn" appearance, paint everything before doing the damage. Then rub some mud around the shield, let it sit a while and then wipe it down with a damp towel (the low moisture won't damage the wood). The mud will seep into the exposed wood but not the pained wood. Then if you want you can seal it with urethane.
Laughing at the "experts" in the comments, who most certainly made their own perfectly authentic shields, guided by the ghost of a Viking. 🤣
This is great thanks for sharing❤
Great job man... But the blood of your enemies probably won't show up very well on that red color.😂
What a really nicely done video. Am looking at doing this for a Dad/kids project at Church. Thank you very much
That's the best hammered boss I've ever seen on a homemade skold, well done
Great video quality for a channel your size! loved the tutorial and the editing.
Thank you for this video tutorial. I am going to be making my 10 yo a shield using scrap oak flooring salvaged from neighborhood remodeling projects. The TnG should hold together really well I think. That stump anvil is a much better design for the shield boss than I have seen other places. Still going to do the "leather wrap" on the edge though. Large dog rawhide chews are fantastic for that.
Thank you for the ideas. Great job.
This video was so helpful for my kids! We are doing a homeschool unit on Vikings and this video was perfect.
Little late to the party. As someone who shapes metal for a living, the best way, and the way a blacksmith would make a boss, is to hammer in a circle from the outside in on heated metal. For stuff like this i use 2 hammers. The peen end of one against the metal and hit the hammers face to face. Working, not forcing the metal into shape. I have an acetalene torch, but on sheet metal a good mapp gas torch works just fine.
Awesome work.
How did you calculate the measurements for your template for the metal rim?
Nice
Very pretty shield!
Thank you!
What is the weight of the shield? It looks cool but is it heavy?
Extra points for homemade bos. The metal rim is unlikely, common was rawhide. Also, the front would be covered in glued in linnen or leather, for strength. Still looks nice and usable.
By the way, the best worn/used look you get by preparing the longboat and going out raiding. You should try it next time 😉
The metal rim was used, plenty archeological evidence to be found. No overall linnen or leather front covering either.
The boss is tough!! I have made a few and had a number of the ones I attempted tear or split while I was stretching them. Very frustrating to waste all that time and start over.
very cool, skol. i woulda put a couple leather straps to hold it more firmly but still... skol good job brother
Good Job!
what is the final weight???
How did you make the bowl cut out of the log?
I am trying to make a shield boss the same way you did but I can't figure out how to cut a nice bowl shape out of a log
I used chisels and gouges to get the majority of the wood out then just sanded the bowl so it was smooth.
Do you make and sell them? This was awesome
I'd say this for anyone who's looking to make this, you can you hear the metal in firepit and shop vacuum or litterly anything that blows air.
Excellent video. Easy to follow and very informative. Could you tell me how big did you make the shield. Many thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching. I should have included the dimensions in the video. The shield is 30 inches
When i make mine im going to put some cool purple and black dragon designs on mine
How to attach shield boss
I hope I can do this someday
What brands of stain and paint did you use on the shield?
I use red krylon spray paint and minwax stain on the front. The back has brown valspar paint
How did you join the slats? Did you just use glue or did you do biscuits and glue?
I just used glue and clamps
Maybe a dumb question but what kind of metal would you need for the boss? Something that can be shaped with reasonable ease without heating too
I use 14ga sheet metal. It a little thicker than 1/16”
@@embeologyworkshop Thanks for the reply! Really enjoying following this tutorial and all that's left for me is make the boss. Keep up the good work!
Great video but can you do this without power tools?
This could easily be done without power tools it would just take a little longer.
What material are you using for the shield core?
Ash is a very common wood choice.
metal rounding for real? it supposed to be leather, also on the back and the front was linen glued to it
Did you use 18 gauge metal for the boss?
I used 14 gauge metal for the boss and outer ring
The wood stain doesnt do anything since you are putting it on the paint. Stain cant seep into paint
some northman did have metal
brasing and leather
but the middle and poorer class could
not afford the metal they did do the leather
the other thing is that the word viking should
not be ised because its a term that meams radeing and setteling and its better to say northman
Тhank you...
Viking shields are not just one color they were a variety of colors from 2 to 5 or if your Lucky 6. Of course I admire the design of the shield just I wish I had a little more into to it. Also I don’t recommend hitting something with the large hammer. depending on how thick the metal is it could break right thorough
Hi
Hi
@@justsometurd.1109 Hi
Hello there
Nice, but all the steps are out of order and I wouldn’t use just spray paint and store bought stain for the finish
Sorry. but this is not a real Viking shield. Maybe you should do some research