Это видео недоступно.
Сожалеем об этом.
DIY - How to troubleshoot a S17+ with 0 ASICs detected
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 22 фев 2022
- Here's a quick description of the steps to take to troubleshoot a S17+ with 0 ASICs:
Visual inspection. Anything look out of the ordinary?
If not, assume bad chip, let's find it!
1- Find out where the ASIC chain is broken:
Inject 1.8v into the RI of a chip to test the chain from chip #1 up to that chip.
If testing the last chip in a domain (chips 5, 10, 15, 20, 25, etc) use the 1.8v from the next domain
RI is the middle of the 5 test points.
Use your jumper to inject 1.8v and fire up the tester to see the results.
If you have 0 ASICs, try again, closer to the beginning of the chain (towards #1)
If you have the expected number of ASICs, move further in the chain (towards #65)
You should now know WHERE the ASIC chain is broken.
2- Find out why the ASIC chain is broken:
Measure all voltages and signals going in and coming out of the chip. That includes:
- 1.8v on pins 16 and 17
- 0.8v on pins 15 and 18
- Clk in and out (0.7 - 0.9v or close to it)
- CI/CO in and out (1.8v or close to it)
- No need to measure RI/RO
- Rst in and out (1.8v or close to it)
- BI/BO (0v or close to it)
Based on your findings, use your judgement to determine which chip is bad. Typically a chip that does not pass a signal while having all the powers fed to it is bad.
There is however a chance that the following chip is shorted and pulling that signal to ground.
Also test resistors on the signal paths if necessary to determine if they are the cause of a signal not going to the next chip.
3- Replace chip as required. Separate video will be made on that at a later time.
4- Re-test and hope for some progress! (after the board has cooled down).
5- Call it fixed. Hash test for 24 hours or however long you feel comfortable before giving it back. Or if it is your board, tap yourself on the back, you did a good job.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Check out the wiki (work in progress): asicrepaircanada.ddns.net/inde...
Reach me: On the Antminer Repair Discord server: / discord
by email: info@ASICRepairCanada.com
I have 90+ hashboards with this problem, this is gonna help me a lot!
I never thought to use that jumper trick on the RI/RO line. What a time saver that will be
Nice video...thanks for writing summary notes..really helpful!!
Glad it was helpful!
Legendary clip! Thanks for this video!
you are great, i solved my problem on T17e. Thanks
Thank you!
Hi, I really liked your video and you made the explanation really simple to understand. What tester do you use? Do you have a link for it? And where can I buy replacement chips and parts?
Very well explained. Thanks for that. Can you do this also for an s17 board. These testing points are more hard to see i think. Another question is what happens when using a 1,8 v cap from another domain to short RO?
Mine had a hole burned into the board when we had a series of power surges. Detected the board but kept on skipping it. Took it apart and then saw what happened. Just filled it up with solder and it was working again for about a week. Same thing. Did it again, now been running for about 2 ish months.
I will learn this and start working on repairing this machine.
because there are many engine models that I will study and repair, maybe S19, T19, and T17 too.
- does every hasboard have such a black dot path?
- does the high temperature still have to replace the chip?
- is it enough to stick the chip with the flux? or the new chip already has a tin ball installed?
- what temperature blower did you use to remove and install the heatsink and chip?
- how long do you cool a board that has already been heated?
- you counted heatsink 1 from bottom left, does that count apply to other board models?
- if one of the ICs burns, will the path be damaged or not? otherwise I just need to replace the burned IC that's all right?
sorry if I ask a lot of questions, because I never learned this kind of repair at first, even using a multitester I don't understand.
Is it possible to bypass a bad chip and just run with one less ASIC?
Perfect ...
Friend, I'm talking to Russia to buy the asic repair center. I wanted to ask you if it is reliable. They ask me to pay in crypto and I'm a little reluctant.
Any review helps me a lot. Thank you
Hi Sir, you bring us a great video, thank you very much, but one question for you, at 13 minute 50 seconds of your video, you begin to measure the 1.8V and 0.8V, I noted you put one prob on the heatsink(chip side), Does the heatsink equal to domain GND? I have measured my S17+ hash board, the heatsink(chip top) is not domain GND and neither 1.8V or 0.8? What voltage is on the heatsink(chip top)? thank you very much.
I've got intermittent ASICS...
Cold boot missing, reboot after a heat up and then off they go again a little later!
Dry joints I think, but I've looked at the board once already.
Another has all ASICS, no hash.
My day tomorrow
When you did the chip replacement here. Did you use a good used chip recycled from another board.. or did you use a fresh chip and have to pre-tin it? Great videos!
When you heat the board from the bottom like this… what keeps the heat sync from the underside from falling off?
Is better let the board keep blowing with fan while checking,let it cool as possible , we know 17 series mostly has cold solder join , when it heats up problems gone but it appears when it's cold .
I just found your Chanel , greit video and good jobb . What's kind of tester you use and where did you bought if can I ask.
Thanks. It is the asic repair center tester. tester.asic.repair/en
Hi, you make great videos. Could you please advise me. When checking and measuring hashboard S17+, chip 5 gives me 0.8 v, but chip 6 already receives 1.8 v measured CLK per chip, I can't figure out the error, how is this possible. Can you please advise me where the error could be? I replaced chip 6 with a brand new one, but I still have the same problem and I don't know what to do. That's why I'm asking for help. Thank you, if you answer me and give me advice, I will be very happy and very grateful.
Great Video helped me alot ! and also interesting heating setup you have there. Keep it up ! Do you keep the btm heatsink on while replacing chip?
I do keep the heatsink on. It acts as a thermal funnel that focuses the heat on the pad of the chip. Much smoother with it on!
@@asicrepaircanada159 doesn't the bottom heatsink fall off when you're heating from that side? Or is it supported, like does the lower heat gun touch the heat sink? Also, which tester are you using, do you have a link? I think not a zeus...
@@webby459 The surface tension keeps all the components in place on the underside. You just have to be careful when if you handle it while it's still warm. I use the asic repair center tester. tester.asic.repair/
merci pour cette superbe vidéo bravo, mais ton système de trou sous la table pour réchauffer les cartes par le dessous c'est une très bonne idée. bravo.
Je ne peux pas dire que je l'ai inventé....seulement perfectionné!
Hello, I have about 9 antminer t17e, I have tried to fix them but without luck I have not been able to make them work, they all mark me 0 asic, do you repair hash boards?
Good
whats that jumper is a multimiter or voltage injector ?
How to fix 64 of 65 chip on s17+?
I tried this on one of my 17+ zero asics and it went from zero to 5 asics however I'm a little confused. I injected at chip 11- 5 asics. chip 6- 5 asics. So where would my issue be? Chips 1-11 or 44 to 11?
T15 asic0 do you have a tutorial?
But the heatsink, is it only glued?
Dude, this is gold!
Can you share what type of reball template you use?
BTW, where do I get a maintenance manual? is it in free access somewhere on the net or do I buy it?
@@smavik76Join the discord if you haven't already. It's on there. As for reball template: do you mean stencil? I don't use a stencil to put solder on the chips. I have another video on my technique for used chips but it's basically the same for new ones.
I have a hash board, with zero asic on chip 5, I already made the exchange about 5 times, and it still continues, I made the exchange of chip 4 too, thinking it could be him.
arrives 1.8 and volt and 0.8 normally, you know what it could be?
Not sure what model you are working on but you also need all the signals on top of the 1.8v and 0.8v as well as domain voltage. If you look at all that I am sure you will find where the problem is.
One more question, I have a lab power supply. May I ask for how many Voltage and Amps are using in repairing S17+ hashborad? Thank you!
21 volts. Let the board pull as much current as it wants. It will start around 5 amps and as it gets hotter, inctrsde to 10+ amps.
@@asicrepaircanada159 Thank you!
Do you do board repairs for others?
How much for one pieces repair price
Can you use an external power injector to give you the 1.8 or is it best to pull that from the previous domain (15,24,35)
1.8 volts is 1.8 volts, no matter how you generate it so in theory yes. When you test the last chip in a domain you have to use the 1.8v from the *next* domain, not the previous one. If you do use an injector, just be careful where you put your ground at and you will be fine.
@@asicrepaircanada159 But this would only apply to the Asic repair box since it gives the reading of how many chips? Or is this process done without a tester as well? Thanks for the reply.
@@swan433 Yes, the idea is that as you inject 1.8v in different places, the tester instantly tells you if everything is ok up to that point. It allows for quick and easy testing without having to measure individual signals and interpreting them. If you are going to work on hashbaords, a tester is a must in my opinion. You don't have to get the same one I am using in this video. You can use a universal type one. I will say: avoid Zeus if possible, bad customer service and universal fixtures that don't always work...
@@asicrepaircanada159 I have the Zeus fixture and I've yet to use it. The PIC files took them 3 months to get to me, just received it 2 days ago when I came across your videos. I've learnt a lot so far by you showing this method.
Please tell me, where can I buy this fixture?
tester.asic.repair/en
please help me s17+. unequal voltage ranges. test is still enough number of chips . The signal pins are still there. I'm stuck
Sorry but that's not enough info for me to be able to help you. Join the discord (link in the description) and we will be able to help you better there.
@@asicrepaircanada159 ok
Hello sir, what kind of PSU are using for hashborad?
Anytype ofpower supply that will do 30 volt and 10 amps. If you have a 20 amps max that could work too.
@@asicrepaircanada159 Thank you so much!
can you inject 1.8v whit a lab power supply?
In theory yes but you have to make absolutely sure you put the ground of your power supply at the right place! If you have a good understanding of domains and their voltage levels then sure why not, 1.8 volts is 1.8 volts.... coming from the board or from a power supply.
@@asicrepaircanada159 hmm yeah the thing is that you have to inject that voltage whit the board running
@@ReadytomineCA Yes, what's your point?
What temperature and type of flux you use?
Chip Quik SMD29130CC, 340 C @ 60% air. Hope this helps.
@@asicrepaircanada159 thank you for reply :)
hello i would like to know what is eprom error please
Sorry I don't understand what you are saying. The EEPROM is near the main connectors of the board.
@@asicrepaircanada159 i am getting error-eprom-info when i connect the hashboard on original controller but its working on test fixture with 65 asic
@@asicrepaircanada159 do i need to reprograming the eprom for new asic that i have changed frequency and voltage (brush)
@@rabihsaade399 If you have a universal type fixture, you need to do a complete hast test for the board and when it passes, the EEPROM will get re-written with the proper info. You can also manually take the EEPROM info from a working board and program in into that one. Using a Skypro II for example.
No, you do not need to be shorting anything out. That method should only be used on a 64 ASIC.
0 asic is only caused by RO/RI not passing from 65 to 1.
Measure RO/RI on ASIC 32. Does it get 1.8v?
If not then you've just determined that the issue is between ASIC 65- 32
Repeat those steps cutting the board in half until you find the low RO coming out.
If you did get 1.8v then you know ASIC 65-32 are good.
It should not take anymore the 45-60 seconds to locate the faulty chip.
You say I don't need to be shorting anything out, I say you don't even have to use a multimeter...many ways to skin a cat my friend. Here are my thoughts:
1. Shorting out test points is actually the method in the formal maintenance manual. This is doing the same thing but by using easily accessible test points instead of having to remove the heatsinks.
2. Showing the actual number of chips detected on a tester gives you a warm and fuzzy that not only the signals are passing but that the chip is also communicating, which measuring RO only doesn't do. You can also gauge if there are any other issues by seeing if the number of chips detected fluctuates. I see boards pretty routinely where a chip would output its RO but still need replacing.
3. This video is meant to be instructional for people that are starting out troubleshooting. It is a complement to the maintenance manual the shorting out technique. That method also takes less than a minute to do when you're not trying to explain it to youtube at the same time...You are not the target demographics my friend :)
@@asicrepaircanada159 Man, you is the real deal!!!
Very well explained!
Hey listen
YOU'RE NOT MY MOM!!
Is it possible to bypass a bad chip and just run with one less ASIC?