Thanks! It helps that I started the accumulation process like 2 months before I planned to actually sit down and build it. So I was able to take my time with the preparations. I'm not sure how deep I want to go into the build process for this channel. I'll definitely be recording the whole thing, and doing a time-lapse with occasional slowdowns to focus on interesting bits, kind of like I did with the zip tie video (battery pack). I'll get this built and all the footage aggregated and then decide how to best share it with you all.
@@ObsessiveEngineering Definitely the method to showcase the build. Time lapse for some, normal speed for the rest. Also, I'd love to see a video of that nylon powder printer you mentioned. If you have access to film it like that.
@@anon_y_mousse I don't have any video of the Fuse 1 in action, but the first few minutes of this Adam Savage's Tested video is an perfect introduction to it, both showing how it works and why it is amazing. If you hear "SLS" this is what they mean (and the Fuse 1 from Formlabs is the first machine that does SLS for under $100k). ruclips.net/video/IrFYt3uUdrI/видео.html I am ~12 hours into the build and I've recorded most of it. And it's going really well! Looking forward to finding a fun way to share this with the channel!
Unfortunately, I'm breaking the color scheme with the Fuse-1 printed hotend parts which will be part gray. I would reprint the faceplate in that teal color except that's the singular piece that looks like garbage from an FDM printer, unless I buy myself a tiny nozzle. Alternatively, I might be able to mix some resin to get the right/close color and reprint it on my Elegoo Saturn. It's one of the few parts that doesn't go through any mechanical stresses so I could actually use resin, as long as it can handle the enclosed chamber temps 🤷♂. Nonetheless, if I could find some split cable sleeves that are the same color, I think that would really add to the aesthetic. Good recommendation!
@@Acheiropoietos coincidentally, I just got to the stage of the build trying to get the Fuse 1 hotend parts together and I'm having a heck of a time. Some lessons were learned... I am tempted to reprint all these parts anyway, which could be done in this teal color. Not ideal, but it would restore my color scheme (along with my sanity). I did a browse of Amazon and didn't see many options for colored parts like you mentioned (there's a few, but they're pretty boring colors). I probably need to look outside Amazon. You have anything specific in mind you could link me?
Just waiting for the printer to be finished to see how long until you get annoyed with the front bars and go with the Open Front Mod for the next printer. That was my experience, and the mod brought a new appreciation for the Rat Rig. Before I used to try my best to not remove the spring steel sheet because it was just too tight of a squeeze. Wonder if your experience is going to be similar.
Totally makes sense. I was super intimidated by the whole process avoided any mods to maximize my chances of success (and enjoyment of the process). But I can see exactly what you mean, and I see a lot of people raving about the open-front mod. Definitely something to think about, but my frame is done and square so I'm not changing it now! Maybe drop the Z-axis 200mm (relative) in your end-gcode so that it's not so close to that top bar? That's probably a lot of Z-action for each print, but it would probably improve quality of life. My Makergear M2 that I used for years actually only had a Z-max endstop, which meant that every print it was homing to Z=+250mm and then back to Z=0. And it's doing okay 😅
@@mophie6941 You know, now that over printed a few hundred hours on this thing, I can say that I would've preferred the open front mod but it doesn't really bother me that much. It might if it was on a shelf or something but mine is on the floor and I come in from above anyway. The bar is only a mild annoyance for me. In fact, I have been using the bar to prop up the flex plate after a print to help it cool down faster. That said, I think the open front mod which looks like it's becoming the official enclosure solution is an all around better design.
I seriously considered the Voron, since it seemed like all the cool kids were doing that. But Voron is really just an open source IDEA. It's a bill of materials (BOM) and instructions. If you don't want to source the 300-whatever parts yourself you need to find a third party kit, which will be their interpretation of the Voron concept. People obviously succeed with it and love their Vorons, but I didn't like the decentralized nature of it (though I am aware that the Voron community is extremely active and has amazing documentation, etc, so it's probably still a good experience). RatRig is a company: the same people designing RatRig printers are selling the official printer kits. This means there is customer support, and they pay people to maintain documentation, build guides, updating designs based on feedback, etc. I felt much more confident I would end up with a functional printer at the end of a RatRig build vs Voron. Obviously they are both great printers and both require a TON of work and attention to detail to get right, and I probably would've been fine with either one. Of course I still had to source the printed parts and the panels for the enclosure. But you can buy the printed parts from RatRig if you want, and you can get the panels from third-party sellers which are simply using the cut files provided by RatRig. Also, many people skip the enclosure entirely which means you can get a 100% complete (unenclosed) kit from RatRig if you want.
@@ObsessiveEngineering All valid points. I'm keen to convert my Hevo to Ratrig to repurpose the frame, but to be honest my Voron2.4 is so good I never need that printer. It will happen some day though as it will be nice to have one enclosed and one open printer.
This is a surprisingly overwhelming topic and I've spent quite a bit of time trying to figure out all the different kinds of lubricants and factors that go to picking the right one. I did look at the manufacturer recommendations for lubricating the linear rails, and I couldn't easily get the EP01 grease that was recommended (by HIWIN). So I have soaked the rails and lead screws in 99% alcohol to clear the shipping grease, then used WD40 White Lithium Grease inside the glide blocks to lubricate the bearings, and done 3-in-1 PTFE lubricant for the rails themselves to protect them. Finally I added some thick red grease for the lead screws. From the RatRig discord, I got the impression that this was probably suboptimal but "good enough". However people can be pretty fanatical about optimal solutions, but I suspect it's not THAT critical 🤷♂️ Sounds like you've done this. What did you do?
@@ObsessiveEngineering Hey! Glad to see that you answered! I just cleaned the linear rails and then applied some EP00 and lithium grease that was also protecting against rust. But after around 3 weeks they started rusting still, so cleaned them up, but then the bearings started also so bought my own rails and bearings with much higher quality and easier to maintain. Screws also started to rust on the surface so was a real blow.
@@NotDoingThisToday Ouch! Relative humidity here on the east coast (US) is like 60% right now, so I may be destined for the same fate as you. Once I'm done building this thing I will regrease everything and then just hope for the best. How difficult was it to replace the rails after the printer was built? Also, which printer did you get? Also a V-core-3 400mm? Any mods from the stock build you recommend?
@@ObsessiveEngineering When I was cleaning the printer I also replaced all the parts from PETG to PC CF, that was the biggest time consumer. But the rails are not hard to replace. The ones that takes the longest are the X rail because of the belts. This is just if you are going to switch out the rails only it would probably take around 3-4h if you are taking it slow and steady. If I were you I would also switch out all the bearings for the belt for more high quality ones and also check all the screws that are in contact with the rails/bearings so they have no rust on them. You can get different types of rust, rust 1 and 2 are the most common one. If you have surface rust it’s usually rust 1 and that’s just to clean off but still would buy better rails and bearings so you don’t have to worry later on. They will in like 10 weeks updates the kit with better plates rails because this is a issue they see often. I used EP0 that you can buy from kis3d I think it’s called.
@@ObsessiveEngineering - You mentioned being in a basement... and those are typically humid, particularly during summer months. For me, that would raise two concerns: 1) Metal parts tending to rust, and 2) storage of filaments, which can degrade with higher humidity .Driers are available for filaments, and stainless hardware is available for some metal parts, but at greater cost. For what it's worth, I don't recommend basements for 3D printer work, but that may be your only available space. If so, I would get a strong dehumidifier and shoot for 40% humidity max, for example. My basement is up to 80% relative humidity without dehumidification.
Step 00: Preparation - Assemble 96 M6x12 bolts with 96 M6 t-nuts through the holes in the 20x corner plates. I was not prepared for that much work before even getting to Step 01. Happened again with the linear rails, coincidentally also 96 bolts and t-nuts (but M3s).
@@ObsessiveEngineering I have not pulled the trigger yet on the full build. Waiting for an answer from the VA ($$$). So far, just have the Octopus Pro & have ordered the 5160 drivers. To tie me over, I do own a Bambu X1 Carbon Combo. I see you went with 400mm. I have been thinking about the 500mm. I like David Wangs 500 build.
I'm anxious to find out how the Bambu actually pans out. It looks like pre-order only, but based on its specs and price should be excellent value when actually released. Double check dimensions of the whole 500mm enclosure. I noted that I most likely wouldn't be able to fit it through my 29.5" doors, or maybe I could if I took the hinges off. Not worth it for me. But based on discord conversations it looks like people are not really seeing much detriment to the bigger volumes, in terms of speeds and accelerations, vibrations, etc. You probably have a lower cap, but that's probably only relevant if you're going for
@@ObsessiveEngineering So far, Bambu has been great. If they say they are going to do something they do it, may take a minute, but that is because of current logistics. I am a KS backer, so I have had mine since early July. I have had to do some repairs, but they have supplied the parts under warranty. Support is local guys that have been hired via a FB announcement. I would have applied, but currently working on a VA claim for 100% disability. We have a great community on FB & Discord. I just want to build since I like to tinker and this will be my biggest platform. I just trashed my TenLog Hands 2 Idex but kept a lot of the parts. I like Ratrig over Voron because of sourcing parts, plus I like the RR bed. It is pure genius.
Oh no, the fan cover has a lenovo logo on it, guess they are gonna be sued. No but seriously, the copyright/trademark system is so broken. ( Referring to the Framework button bs )
I got the polycarbonate from the clearance page of Piedmont Plastics, which were all 12"x48", thickness 3/16". It was absurdly inexpensive on clearance, which is why I went with it even though I needed quite a few of the panels to be 24"x24". For those I simply loaded them into Fusion360 and turned them into two 12"x24" panels. I had to adjust a few of the 3030 mounting holes, but overall it worked surprisingly well. Check my instagram for pictures (oooh, spoilers :) )
Your organizational skills are top notch. I sure hope you are planning to take us through your build... no matter how long it takes.
Thanks! It helps that I started the accumulation process like 2 months before I planned to actually sit down and build it. So I was able to take my time with the preparations.
I'm not sure how deep I want to go into the build process for this channel. I'll definitely be recording the whole thing, and doing a time-lapse with occasional slowdowns to focus on interesting bits, kind of like I did with the zip tie video (battery pack). I'll get this built and all the footage aggregated and then decide how to best share it with you all.
@@ObsessiveEngineering Definitely the method to showcase the build. Time lapse for some, normal speed for the rest. Also, I'd love to see a video of that nylon powder printer you mentioned. If you have access to film it like that.
@@anon_y_mousse I don't have any video of the Fuse 1 in action, but the first few minutes of this Adam Savage's Tested video is an perfect introduction to it, both showing how it works and why it is amazing. If you hear "SLS" this is what they mean (and the Fuse 1 from Formlabs is the first machine that does SLS for under $100k).
ruclips.net/video/IrFYt3uUdrI/видео.html
I am ~12 hours into the build and I've recorded most of it. And it's going really well! Looking forward to finding a fun way to share this with the channel!
@@ObsessiveEngineering Cool, thanks.
These days, you can also buy coloured ptfe tubes and split cable management tubes. Keep the theme going. This build looks like a blast!
Unfortunately, I'm breaking the color scheme with the Fuse-1 printed hotend parts which will be part gray. I would reprint the faceplate in that teal color except that's the singular piece that looks like garbage from an FDM printer, unless I buy myself a tiny nozzle. Alternatively, I might be able to mix some resin to get the right/close color and reprint it on my Elegoo Saturn. It's one of the few parts that doesn't go through any mechanical stresses so I could actually use resin, as long as it can handle the enclosed chamber temps 🤷♂.
Nonetheless, if I could find some split cable sleeves that are the same color, I think that would really add to the aesthetic. Good recommendation!
@@ObsessiveEngineering Well, for the next one then! 👍Great channel! 👍👍
@@Acheiropoietos coincidentally, I just got to the stage of the build trying to get the Fuse 1 hotend parts together and I'm having a heck of a time. Some lessons were learned... I am tempted to reprint all these parts anyway, which could be done in this teal color. Not ideal, but it would restore my color scheme (along with my sanity).
I did a browse of Amazon and didn't see many options for colored parts like you mentioned (there's a few, but they're pretty boring colors). I probably need to look outside Amazon. You have anything specific in mind you could link me?
Awesome!
Thanks! Now time to turn this into an awesome printer... hopefully... 😅
Just waiting for the printer to be finished to see how long until you get annoyed with the front bars and go with the Open Front Mod for the next printer.
That was my experience, and the mod brought a new appreciation for the Rat Rig. Before I used to try my best to not remove the spring steel sheet because it was just too tight of a squeeze. Wonder if your experience is going to be similar.
Totally makes sense. I was super intimidated by the whole process avoided any mods to maximize my chances of success (and enjoyment of the process). But I can see exactly what you mean, and I see a lot of people raving about the open-front mod. Definitely something to think about, but my frame is done and square so I'm not changing it now!
Maybe drop the Z-axis 200mm (relative) in your end-gcode so that it's not so close to that top bar? That's probably a lot of Z-action for each print, but it would probably improve quality of life. My Makergear M2 that I used for years actually only had a Z-max endstop, which meant that every print it was homing to Z=+250mm and then back to Z=0. And it's doing okay 😅
I cannot agree more on this, I've had mine for 1 year and a half and omg this bar is such a pain for real
@@mophie6941 You know, now that over printed a few hundred hours on this thing, I can say that I would've preferred the open front mod but it doesn't really bother me that much. It might if it was on a shelf or something but mine is on the floor and I come in from above anyway. The bar is only a mild annoyance for me. In fact, I have been using the bar to prop up the flex plate after a print to help it cool down faster.
That said, I think the open front mod which looks like it's becoming the official enclosure solution is an all around better design.
What are the benefits of building this over the voron trident or 2.4?
I seriously considered the Voron, since it seemed like all the cool kids were doing that. But Voron is really just an open source IDEA. It's a bill of materials (BOM) and instructions. If you don't want to source the 300-whatever parts yourself you need to find a third party kit, which will be their interpretation of the Voron concept. People obviously succeed with it and love their Vorons, but I didn't like the decentralized nature of it (though I am aware that the Voron community is extremely active and has amazing documentation, etc, so it's probably still a good experience).
RatRig is a company: the same people designing RatRig printers are selling the official printer kits. This means there is customer support, and they pay people to maintain documentation, build guides, updating designs based on feedback, etc. I felt much more confident I would end up with a functional printer at the end of a RatRig build vs Voron. Obviously they are both great printers and both require a TON of work and attention to detail to get right, and I probably would've been fine with either one.
Of course I still had to source the printed parts and the panels for the enclosure. But you can buy the printed parts from RatRig if you want, and you can get the panels from third-party sellers which are simply using the cut files provided by RatRig. Also, many people skip the enclosure entirely which means you can get a 100% complete (unenclosed) kit from RatRig if you want.
@@ObsessiveEngineering All valid points. I'm keen to convert my Hevo to Ratrig to repurpose the frame, but to be honest my Voron2.4 is so good I never need that printer. It will happen some day though as it will be nice to have one enclosed and one open printer.
You need to really lubricate all the screws and linear rails or else they will rust.
This is a surprisingly overwhelming topic and I've spent quite a bit of time trying to figure out all the different kinds of lubricants and factors that go to picking the right one.
I did look at the manufacturer recommendations for lubricating the linear rails, and I couldn't easily get the EP01 grease that was recommended (by HIWIN). So I have soaked the rails and lead screws in 99% alcohol to clear the shipping grease, then used WD40 White Lithium Grease inside the glide blocks to lubricate the bearings, and done 3-in-1 PTFE lubricant for the rails themselves to protect them. Finally I added some thick red grease for the lead screws.
From the RatRig discord, I got the impression that this was probably suboptimal but "good enough". However people can be pretty fanatical about optimal solutions, but I suspect it's not THAT critical 🤷♂️
Sounds like you've done this. What did you do?
@@ObsessiveEngineering Hey! Glad to see that you answered! I just cleaned the linear rails and then applied some EP00 and lithium grease that was also protecting against rust. But after around 3 weeks they started rusting still, so cleaned them up, but then the bearings started also so bought my own rails and bearings with much higher quality and easier to maintain. Screws also started to rust on the surface so was a real blow.
@@NotDoingThisToday Ouch! Relative humidity here on the east coast (US) is like 60% right now, so I may be destined for the same fate as you. Once I'm done building this thing I will regrease everything and then just hope for the best. How difficult was it to replace the rails after the printer was built? Also, which printer did you get? Also a V-core-3 400mm? Any mods from the stock build you recommend?
@@ObsessiveEngineering When I was cleaning the printer I also replaced all the parts from PETG to PC CF, that was the biggest time consumer. But the rails are not hard to replace. The ones that takes the longest are the X rail because of the belts. This is just if you are going to switch out the rails only it would probably take around 3-4h if you are taking it slow and steady.
If I were you I would also switch out all the bearings for the belt for more high quality ones and also check all the screws that are in contact with the rails/bearings so they have no rust on them.
You can get different types of rust, rust 1 and 2 are the most common one. If you have surface rust it’s usually rust 1 and that’s just to clean off but still would buy better rails and bearings so you don’t have to worry later on.
They will in like 10 weeks updates the kit with better plates rails because this is a issue they see often.
I used EP0 that you can buy from kis3d I think it’s called.
@@ObsessiveEngineering - You mentioned being in a basement... and those are typically humid, particularly during summer months. For me, that would raise two concerns: 1) Metal parts tending to rust, and 2) storage of filaments, which can degrade with higher humidity .Driers are available for filaments, and stainless hardware is available for some metal parts, but at greater cost. For what it's worth, I don't recommend basements for 3D printer work, but that may be your only available space. If so, I would get a strong dehumidifier and shoot for 40% humidity max, for example. My basement is up to 80% relative humidity without dehumidification.
did you get enough M6 washers 😅
Step 00: Preparation - Assemble 96 M6x12 bolts with 96 M6 t-nuts through the holes in the 20x corner plates. I was not prepared for that much work before even getting to Step 01. Happened again with the linear rails, coincidentally also 96 bolts and t-nuts (but M3s).
My pro board was missing the Rubber Duck.
Sorry to hear that. You missed out on the premium BTT experience!
@@ObsessiveEngineering I have not pulled the trigger yet on the full build. Waiting for an answer from the VA ($$$). So far, just have the Octopus Pro & have ordered the 5160 drivers. To tie me over, I do own a Bambu X1 Carbon Combo. I see you went with 400mm. I have been thinking about the 500mm. I like David Wangs 500 build.
I'm anxious to find out how the Bambu actually pans out. It looks like pre-order only, but based on its specs and price should be excellent value when actually released.
Double check dimensions of the whole 500mm enclosure. I noted that I most likely wouldn't be able to fit it through my 29.5" doors, or maybe I could if I took the hinges off. Not worth it for me. But based on discord conversations it looks like people are not really seeing much detriment to the bigger volumes, in terms of speeds and accelerations, vibrations, etc. You probably have a lower cap, but that's probably only relevant if you're going for
@@ObsessiveEngineering So far, Bambu has been great. If they say they are going to do something they do it, may take a minute, but that is because of current logistics. I am a KS backer, so I have had mine since early July. I have had to do some repairs, but they have supplied the parts under warranty. Support is local guys that have been hired via a FB announcement. I would have applied, but currently working on a VA claim for 100% disability. We have a great community on FB & Discord. I just want to build since I like to tinker and this will be my biggest platform. I just trashed my TenLog Hands 2 Idex but kept a lot of the parts. I like Ratrig over Voron because of sourcing parts, plus I like the RR bed. It is pure genius.
Oh no, the fan cover has a lenovo logo on it, guess they are gonna be sued. No but seriously, the copyright/trademark system is so broken. ( Referring to the Framework button bs )
What size panels did you buy? and which thickness did you go with?
I got the polycarbonate from the clearance page of Piedmont Plastics, which were all 12"x48", thickness 3/16". It was absurdly inexpensive on clearance, which is why I went with it even though I needed quite a few of the panels to be 24"x24". For those I simply loaded them into Fusion360 and turned them into two 12"x24" panels. I had to adjust a few of the 3030 mounting holes, but overall it worked surprisingly well. Check my instagram for pictures (oooh, spoilers :) )
@@ObsessiveEngineering Thank you 🙏🏻