SHORT SUBJECT #10 STUBBY REAMERS tubalcain mrpete
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- Опубликовано: 6 сен 2024
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Abom79 doing the shop tour at your house was a great video Pete .
Longer videos are never a problem for me , content is # 1 to me 😎👍👍
I do have some stubby reamers in my collection, but they don't get used very often. When I do need them, like stubby bits, they are invaluable!
I'm not a machinist. I could be 100% wrong. I would think a shorter reamer would actually be more accurate because there would be less deflection, more rigidity. That said, it would be accurate based on position and there would be less tolerance for being off center. My assumption would be the larger reamers are longer because they expect they may be used on thicker material and larger objects. A tiny 1/8" reamer would almost never be cutting a hole more than a few inches deep, but a 1/2" reamer might be since a bolt that big would be clamping something mighty large! Just my thoughts. Good video either way.
I was always taught that the reamer needs to be able to follow the drilled hole, thus the longer shank. For accurate hole making it is always: Drill, Bore.Ream,, That's what I was taught. The Chucking reamer also DOES NOT cut on the flutes, but rather the 45 degree angle on just the tip does the cutting. If you measure you will find it has a small taper from the bottom to the top. Hand reamers however DO cut along the length. As always, great video Mr. Pete
Yes, that was my understanding that the Chucking reamer does not cut on the flutes.
There are floating reamer holders that would allow them to self center even if short. Of course the extra length of the holder probably puts you back in the same length situation.
1st I do like your shorts , not because they are short, but because they are a single topic covered well. I have wondered about the length of the reamer shafts but was 100% wrong thinking surely all that flex can't be good.
1st?
I have found that shortening a reamer is a futile step done just before throwing it in the garbage. I have a power feed on the knee of my Bridgeport, so I can easily raise and lower it. Holes larger than 3/8" usually get bored. In my experience shortening a reamer usually ruins. Good video Lyle. You covered a topic that needed addressing.
I’ve cut down most of my reamers and they work great. How about a short subject on countersinks? So many different styles. Which do you like best for what purpose?
I can just see the next video being about stubby saws, stubby grinders or stubby sand paper. 😜
@@ExtantFrodo2 Or Stubby Kaye.
@@robertpearson8798 or my least favorite... stubby toes.
Very interesting! For the type of hobby work I do I'm sure that would work just fine! I think it's a great idea.
A good follow up video would be comparing the accuracy of a good reamer then cut that reamer and compare the holes for accuracy. Please?
I was just doing this exact thing on my mill not even 12 hours ago.. Reaming 4 holes on a big block chevy crank for balancing... It crossed my mind to cut them. I'm glad I didnt Bubba them up.
lol
I get it.
Sometimes needs must.
I didn’t realize the potential problems though.
Thank you for another informative video.
Keep it up.
Individual & or Individual's Tricks of the trade will never be too long for me, Keep 'em coming
Regards from Australia
Your explanation for reamer length agrees with what I've always heard.
Having bought half of my reamers used, I've occasionally run into cut down reamers, but I've replaced those with new ones. Replacing the chuck with a a collet will regain that vertical room. ER collets are much more convenient for that than R8s are.
Out of respect for your sainted brother, I shall refrain from using the "b" word 🙂
Oh, and straight reamers cut on the corner: otherwise you'd get a tapered hole. The flutes center the reamer and burnish the walls of the bore.
Very informative.how about a tutorial on adjustable reamers? The setup and use of them?
Your always informative and interesting. Thanks for all you give us.
I appreciate these videos on short drills and reamers. I’ve shortened a few reamers for production jobs but generally prefer to leave them long. Here’s a problem that no one has addressed.
Drilling with a short drill and following with a long reamer will cause serious misalignment of the hole and reamer if the machine head is not perfectly trammed. Check Mr. Pete’s earlier videos on an easy way to tram a Bridgeport head.
Don’t keep the videos short we have been watching you for years because of your informational rambling
It's fairly common for me to have to shorten tools to make them work in the turret when setting up on the Brown & Sharpe screw machines. Some of my coworkers who don't run those machines get really upset with me for doing that, but they never have any solutions of their own. Thanks for posting :)
never in a drill chuck, maybe in a collet, finding its own center is good ! thank you for your fantastic library of work,
best regards,
Steve
A possible good follow-up to this video would be self aligning tap and reamer holders-just a thought
I would like to see a video on adjustable reamers, I have a bunch I bought at auction years ago and never used them .
Hi Lyle,
I have shortened drill bits and chucking reamers as I have a mini lathe and a bench top drill press. As funds allow, have started acquiring screw length drill bits and hand reamers for their shorter length. You and your family stay safe.
Learned a lathe with machinist handbook and a journeyman on the end of the phone to confirm my plan.
He was working at a mine and I ran his shop....welder by trade.
Work as a millwright....with no papers...
Had ....cwb ISO 9001 arc mig smaw and fcaw..... pressure.
Never ran a tig yet
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reamers are so expensive I couldn't cut mine down. But I do love stubby drills. I imagine with a good DRO stubby reamers could be just fine to use
Modifying tools to suite your needs has a long history i really do not see any issue with this and if you have doubles of that tool it make the decision even easier. the goal is to get the job done correctly and why work harder. Thank you Mr Pete
Thanks Mr. Pete! I’ve found that it is extremely easy to get an oversized hole with a regular length reamer. I would think only in a pinch would I go with the stubby reamer but it all depends on what the application is. If it was a press fit then I’d opt for the long reamer. Thanks for another great video. 👍
Good morning Mr. Pete
Thanks for the video I always enjoy the content
I had cut off standard, oversize, and dowel pin reamers, and c-bores as well. Also a full set of drills, reamers, c-bores and c-sinks with negative rake for cutting bronze. It saved tons of time to have all that selection.
It was only possible because I never had to buy them. I let the shops I worked at spend all the cash.
When I retired, I sold everything so I wouldn't be tempted to get "part time" work. Ah, the good old days
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Not bad video for an ole buggy whip maker
I have a set of reamers I shortened to fit my hobby mill. If I keep my table locked and just raise the headstock to do a changeout from a stubby drill to a reamer (No DRO) I have no trouble maintaining perfectly round holes in my parts.
Pretty much correct in all of your commentary. Like most machinists, I do whatever I need to do to complete a job successfully (within the limits of demands). AND...having more tool options (long drills and reamers and short drills and reamers) helps me complete my work. I have not seen you do a video about making an extension drill (or other tool) by welding on a piece of drill rod to get to some out of the way, offset hole.
Thank you, I have a video planned where I show the extra long drill bits, sometimes called aircraft drills
@@mrpete222 That will get you up to about 12". I was referring to 24" or more. LOL
Thanks for sharing
Hey Mr Pete, interesting video, my reamer set came in cardboard holders, and the length of each is dependent upon the diameter. The set came by 1/16th’s. John
Keep your vids as they are please Mr.Peterson.
I enjoy these short subject videos. Perhaps make the next one a "Long subjects" ;)
Keep em comin pete!
I have cut down reamers for fixture work in a drill press. It isn't much of a problem as long as the chuck doesn't have too much runout.
Alot of time I use and hold a reamer with a collet instead of using drill chuck on the mill
Mr Pete how about doing a shot subject on parting tools. I have lots of trouble with parting
thank you
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think a problem with stubby reamers would be cutting an over sized hole, rather it might be less likely to be self-centered as well as the longer flexible ones.
Exhalent explanation on the reamers Mr Pete. About a year ago I bought alot of machinist tools and some of the reamers had an extension welded on them.
Maybe the reason the reamers are so long is to access a deep/recessed hole in perhaps a bush type bronze bearing in for example a crankcase etc
You are showing different options,. Owners decision. Nothing foolish about showing options. THhanks for sharing.... Stay safe and well....
Ha! I just cut a big expensive reamer off yesterday. I didn't make it stubby, but it's a couple inches shorter. The knee wouldn't go down far enough, and it's a repeat part done. I didn't want to have to hang it off the table and swing the head. I wouldn't even consider whacking all my reamers just as short as they could go, but now every time I make this part for sale I'll be able to get it out the door a little bit quicker.
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Reamers are made with a long shank for a reason. You gave the reason in your commentary. On the other hand, I don't see a convenience with a "Stubby" reamer. If I'm going from a drill to a reamer on the mill, it only takes me a few seconds, with a power feed, to lower the table and I don't have to re-index the hole after making the change. So I really don't see the convenience. Keep the videos coming because I learn something every time I watch.
If you have a round column table mill you'll understand the problem the first time you have to drill and ream a hole. If you have to raise the head to clear the reamer you lose position.
@@aceroadholder2185 I'm talking about having a full size Bridgeport.
Would be cool to do a little test and see if they do ream a larger hole. Testing with plug gauges of course.
Thank you for sharing. Enjoyed.👍👀
Can't say about shortening the reamers. However I wonder if the length of the reamer may reduce the effect of "run-out" in the drill itself? It could flex enough to overcome minor run out but still make a clean hole because of the beef in the reamer head.???
I never considered the flexing of the shaft on machine reamer's but when you talked about that, I thought about the torque stick used on impact wrenches and how it's the long skinny shaft the makes it work. thanks again.
That torque test channel video was really informative
@@dirtskattz thanks, I'll look for it and check it out.
@@dannyl2598 oh shoot, thought that's what you were referencing. Came out a couple days ago. Nice breakdown.
I only cut off one reamer shorter but it still ran true and wasn't for a super critical hole so I think no harm no foul. It was when I only had a round column mill/drill so losing location when changing head height was a problem. Now that I have a full size milling machine I don't use the shorter reamer. It did occur to me the lack of flex might be a problem but need determined my course of action.
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I didn’t know these existed. I’m going to need to search for some of these.
Thanks for the video.
I run into this issue fairly frequently with my Enco RF-30 round column mill. The table has no Z axis and raising or lowering the head, it’s just better to avoid that if you can. Having a set of stubby drills or reamers is a good idea for people with these types of mills.
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Thank you Mr Pete.
Thanks for sharing 👍
I've been watching your videos for the past couple months. your teaching style has become somewhat addictive. Thank you for your content. From Northwest Louisiana
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Good subject, I have few of those. Thanks.
Another good one Mr Pete. 🔧⚒🔩
Excellent information. Thanks. Good video.
Most of my reamers I leave long. The few I've shortened, they were shorten to the length of the drill bit used prior to reaming.
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Another great video, thank you!
Thanks for the video Mr. Pete!
I totally understand both the convenience argument as well as the accuracy argument but I have a question that wasn’t addressed in your video and would appreciate your two cents. I have never put a reamer in a drill chuck but instead have always used collets (used in a Bridgeport) as I feel that they have less runout, less distance (below the spindle), and that much of the extra distance that a reamer presents over a jobber length drill is largely negated by the removal of the chuck to install the collet. I also feel that a collet has a better grip on the reamer than a drill chuck.
Would appreciate your thoughts.
Thanks
Bill
I agree with you, the collets are probably more accurate. But it takes time to remove a chuck and install collets. Also, I think that some reamers have oddball size shanks. And yes, the length of the chuck necessitates, lowering the table considerably
Thanks for your reply.
I love watching your videos and I have learned so much from you. I really appreciate your demonstration of useful hands-on knowledge and practices.
As for the extra time… well, the more time I am in the garage the less time I am in the house and apt to be in trouble!
Thanks again
Bill
In reference to a previous video, color case hardening can be done by dropping the heated part in dried straw.
Never heard of that
I have done it and will do it again 😊
Very interesting.Thank you.
Oh to have the problem of wearing myself out lowering and raising the table when making a tool change. I have a round column mill drill which can be a nightmare when I need to raise or lower the head for a tool change in the middle of a job. I haven’t reamed much but stubbie would work for me. I haven’t been through all your videos yet, but could there be an experiment reaming 2 holes , one with a standard and one with a stubbie to see how much if any the stubbie reams oversized?
Yes, perform that experiment
Gotta have the right tool for the job
Thank you!
G’day Lyle, any ideas on what to use old worn out reamers for?
In a knee mill with an R8 spindle could you gain most of that shank length difference by trading the drill chuck for a collet when switching between drilling and reaming?
Are reamers tapered? if you run that reamer thru a hole -part way or all the way would the hole size be different? maybe not tapered but out of round?
I never thought about the consequences of cutting off the shank. Wouldn't a floating chuck holder mitigate the short shank length?
I know the Bible talks about floating ax heads, but what is a floating chuck?
@@ExtantFrodo2 A floating reamer chuck allows the reamer to move x & Y direction for alignment. Here is a RUclips video showing it.
ruclips.net/video/qner0ku09Pw/видео.html
@@cpcoark I was just trying to be funny, but that's a good explanation for people who really don't know.
Yes, I am buying a cheap set and shorten them.
Thank you for all your efforts to share knowledge. I have acquired the baby Sears atlas 101 6x18 lathe and the larger 12x36 Atlas with the pulleys lower on the left side and a Sheldon knee horizontal mill with a Bridgeport head. I would like to buy any training, setup or related books, videos you have. I tried your web site, but had no luck. I also need a steady rest for the 12” Atlas and on the Sheldon the table right side hand crank assembly is missing. Where should I look? Thank you.
Send me an email at this address.
lislepete22@yahoo.com
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We need you to compare the accuracy of stubby versus standard reamers
Ok i suppose each one for himself(herself)on this topic. Me being just doing engineering as a hobby, ill leave the subject to the real experts( not the keyboard warriors out there🤣)its good to know the ins and outs of tools and their applications. Yes its certainly annoying to have to pick up the mill head when the drill shank is too long being frustrated having to reset and regain reference,(i dont have a d.r o.yet)and here in SA even used tools are sometimes pricey dependant on the supplier or source.but i go for the new 1s as much as possible, after saving a bit. Knowing that you look after the tool more seriously knowing you paid for it. When it comes to fixtures i .make my own or anything else i might need and save money. But some things jus cant be made and isnt preferably bought 2nd hand, so a new tool isnt beaten easily as it works so much better. Just my 5cents on the topic. And by the way, im not eager at all to cut something as they were made mostl likely that way for a reason
If you don't mind, I'm going to add "Stubby Reamers" to the list of names I could use when I want to give a fake name.
I've never used the list, but it's fun to keep it.
That’s a good one. My brother had a math teacher by the name of Lee peterson, no relation. He was missing his index finger. The students called him stubby Lee behind his back.
Lyle - What standard controls the length of your videos? I've never found any of your shop videos to be too long (cross-reference to Wife, however). And remember, I flunked Shop and got an A in HomeEc.
I guess the length of my videos are based on how long it takes to do things?
Would work well with my small miller ...
Where possible I use a collet instead of a drill chuck for clearance reasons. I know there aren't collets for every reamer size, but it works for what I do.
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A video on different types of reamers and advantages/disadvantages of hss over cobalt etc and spiral over straight would be interesting.
Can hand reamers be used in a chuck?
Also, are tapered reamers useful for anything other than tapers? I picked up an old Navy set of reamers at an auction but they turned out to be tapered reamers.
I guess it depends on how much runout is in your chuck.
Sorry for hijacking the comments. I have a chance to buy a South Bend 9" swing 4 1/2" bed lathe. His ad only has two pictures, and the brass tag in one picture has nothing in the catalog number space, only the above dimensions. He thinks it's a model A. It does NOT have a quick change gear box, and the Forward/Reverse switch is mounted where yours is on your model C. His does not have the rotary dial device under the switch that yours does. Motor is rear mounted and seems to have only one position on the pulley attached to the motor and at least two positions on the flat belt pulley. The apron is the same basic one as your model C. However, it only has a Jacob's chuck for holding the work piece, not a 3-jaw or 4-jaw chuck. I want to make sure I can change that for a 3-jaw or 4-jaw chuck before I buy it. Was one ever made that only had a Jacob's chuck that was not interchangeable for other types of chucks, please? Thanks! Keep up the great work!!
More than likely the Jacobs chuck is just using the internal Morse Taper of the spindle. It should knock right out and the proper thread sized 3 or 4 jaw chuck should thread right on the spindle. South Bend had various sizes of external threads on the spindle, so you have to be careful when acquiring chucks for it.
That Jacobs chalk should be removable. Then you can mount a three jaw chuck on it. It does not appear to be a model it is probably a model C. Probably a good machine, but you need to examine it in person before you buy it
@@grntitan1 Thanks so much!
@@mrpete222 Thanks so much!
The other possibility if it has a Jacobs style chuck on the head-stock spindle is it could be a Jacobs 58B or 59B head-stock chuck. Those thread directly on to the 1 1/2-8 spindle nose and are hollow to allow long stock to pass thought the spindle
To cur or not that is the question, I will see what is said about this, Thanks
How about this idea, that I did not try. If for some reason one has no alternative to use a short reamer how about reducing the shank diameter in the middle between chucking end and cutting end.
Sometime on small machine there is not much room to go. Also, a reamer should be chucked for a short length to allow some flex in the jaw. The cutting force is usually minimal since it removes so little metal.
Give it a try
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I often wonder if there is anything wrong with inserting a drill into a chuck past the shank and over some of the flutes to make it seem a little shorter. Does it hurt the chuck etc?
Do not tighten the jaws over the flutes
I was told the shank is slightly softer than the flutes to give better purchase on the jaws. I would simply stick with Mr Pete's advice!
Blondiehacks has had to cut down reamers, from time to time, due to the limited height of her mill.
There's no such thing as a stubby reamer. If you shorten it, it becomes a side mill! The flex in the long shank is what permits a reamer to ream instead of mill, following the pilot hole, instead of milling a new revolution of wherever your mill axis happens to be placed, which will include X, Y, and tram errors.
Not true. Chucking reamers do not cut on the flutes so they cannot become side mills.
Whats a tubalcain?
I'll hack a reamer off of it saves me a lot of time, but I have hundreds of them from an older machinists lifetime collection, so I can afford to do it without losing all of my full length ones. Guess it boils down to what it's worth to you.
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if you have extra tools, sure. why not? if it saves you time it'd be moronic not to do what works best.
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