It was interesting seeing inside the newest controller. My new M5 will have the current version of that controller as does my partner's F3. Her old C300 chair has the old colour one which I've disassembled many times to repair it.
Pardon my late comment but I only just watched this. A few weeks ago I received my M3 (with the new R-Net controller you disasembled) and discovered, to my pleasant surprise, that it had both IR and Bluetooth even though I hadn't included Bluetooth in my chair script. I've paired it to my PC and can drive the mouse cursor via my M3 controller so that chip does work without the additional Bluetooth 'module'. Haven't tried it with anything else so far. Looks like Permobil are including it as a standard on their chairs now! BTW keep up the great videos!
Nice video Dan. Question.. Have you ever replaced the charging port on R-net joystick. One of the pins is about to break. Permobil and quickie don't sell the part for fear of lawsuit. Curtiss-Wright the manufacturer shows a part #Neutrik NC3FPP 3-Pin XLR Female Panel/Chassis Mount Connector - Latchless - Plastic. I'm not sure if its soldered or pin connectors The joystick I have is the last review on the video. Any help would be appreciated Thanks.
anything is "replaceable" but - finding the parts, or a reasonable facsimile is the trick :^/ most of them i've seen are soldered on the inside though what brand/model/year of chair do ya have? some chairs have a second charging port on them..
Other than the tape trick, is there a way to kill the horn- i don’t mind the start up sound, or even the other indicator sounds, but more often than not, i hit the horn when trying to either tilt or shut down. I hate the horn! My voice is loud enough!! BEEEEEEEEP!! 😎 quicky QM 710 driver!
ive tried setting the horn volume to "zero" with a programmer.. but it still usually makes noise lol - seems to be one of the settings that the chair's controller completely ignores!
Take the controller apart and put some thin insulating material between the conductive rubber pad on the horn button and its matching tracks on the PCB.
I had an attendant control go bad recently. The only things I kept were the gimble, rubber controller hood and rubber controller tip. They don't go bad often are but not always easy to find. I watched this video again. In addition to your outdoor cruzing, I like to watch your tech stuff too.
interesting note.. the joystick on the ROVI was NOT the same as the metal one i took apart.. hard to tell in the video but the screen was MUCH larger, and had some extra buttons.. and it was all PLASTIC
On Curtis/ P&G, the joystick gimbal may have different part numbers, but I bet they are relatively interchangeable. They all same to have the same housing dimensions.
@@TotallyNormal- My quantum wheelchair joystick has a short I think because one of the xlr pins on my charger is getting burned and I told my wheelchair guy said nothing was wrong but something is definitely wrong I need to clean the pin holes on my joystick because i don't want my new charger ruined I have to watch it charge or my charger won't charge my wheelchair its extremely frustrating!
ive found on a number of the quantum chairs they need to use a 5 amp charger.. and an 8 amp is usually whats delivered with them (too much amperage) I've seen quite a few with burnt connectors on the joystick, and controller cables.. BUT if the XLR/charging port is getting crispy - then something is DEFINITELY wrong!! those connectors should be able to handle 10-15 amps no problem.. unfortunately the XLR port on those isn't replaceable.. the only way to fix it, is by replacing the entire joystick. when you talk to them make sure safety is brought up.. "maybe it was smoking a bit" etc... if those XLR pins get screwed up things can get very sketchy in a hurry! those pins can fry everything if they're damaged at all - and LONG before the main breaker on the chair trips! so if they're saying there's a fuse that will protect it.. that's very incorrect! (yes there is technically a breaker or a fuse - but they are typically rated at 50-90 amps.. and the rest of the wiring can melt, or catch fire, without tripping that breaker/fuse) make sure ya press them on it.. damaged charging ports are bad! im not sure how old your chair is - but some of the older ones have very loose connections when plugging in the charger, and can lead to issues exactly like this. those pins are live at battery power all the time - even when the chair is off. be careful - and get them to replace the joystick!
Nicely done. I poked a hole in an older vsi controller years ago. luckily, there was a guy on ebay seller replacent button. It was pretty cool for $30 bucks. Its basically a slab of rubber and shorting buttons with double sided adhesive/ tape. I have a controller question for you. When you upgrade your controller to a higher amperage, do you upgrade your circuit breaker as well? It seems likes your breaker would keep tripping off if you didn't upgrade the breaker.
haven't had an issue with that.. some setups have fuses on each battery, and other permobil chairs that have a circuit breaker, its only wired up with one of the batteries..its more of a 'battery isolation' circuit.. kind of a strange design choice.. but if there's fuse protection/ breakers anywhere, theyre setup for whatever the maximum available options are.. most power bases have an HD option with 120amp controllers... so short answer: nope! no upgrade needed! :^)
Have you ever accessed the onboard programming screen? I just found out about it the other day. I have the R-NET Color joystick like the one at 6:20. You can actually mute the beeping, edit profile speeds, torque and all other sorts I don't fully understand.lol I was going to DM you on ig about it but figured you'd already know about it. If not I can take a video for you since it's kinda hard to explain.
yup! sure have - its a handy tool! unfortunately, OBP is disabled on most of the chairs that get delivered to people... I haven't made a video about it because of that - its almost impossible for people to get their chairs shipped with it enabled :^/
this video is fairly old BUT the PJSM and CJSM2 are FAR more durable.. the older color LCD joysticks plastics/screens will crack literally for no reason! pretty sure it has to do with thermal expansion/contraction over time.. at this point, essentially all R-net chairs come with the PJSM, or CJSM2 the ones without an LCD screen still exist, but you're missing basic functions - like multiple profiles, on board programming, speedometer/miles traveled, error codes being displayed etc etc
Ok now it does not turn on, brand new ( minutes old ) tek guy say it just randomly failed, so controller; btw dealer fired him and never re ordered a new controller, can it be fixed or must be replaced?
Question? My Q6 Edge Q-Logic Joystick quit, plugged Attendant joystick in Main joystick plug and it works fine so figured after watching your video I'd take Main Joystick apart. Problem, the 'Flipper" on/Off Mode switch has nothing under it. Was hoping it was like one you had that maybe magnet was off but just open space by inside of case by Flipper switch. Any idea what could be wrong?
haven't taken apart one of those units yet... is it the OLD original Q-logic? or Q2, or Q3? send me a DM on twitter and maybe ya can take a pic and send?
@@TotallyNormal- Sorry, I have no idea what a DM on twitter(is this like attach picture in e-mail?) and don't know how put picture either, I'm lucky figure out how ask question here. If helps it's the first series of Q6 Edge Part: CTLDC 1467 Model: 1751-0009. It looks like the last joystick you opened on here with wires plugged into 3 slots inside and Flipper swtch and Speed knob don't touch anything. I will ask my neighbor if can post a picture when he gets home from work this evening. Thank you for reply!
@@TotallyNormal- "Thank you!" I do appreciate your replying and the information. Guess I'll try E-bay and hope for best. If you happen know if buy different joystick will I need a handheld programmer or is it plug in without programmer? Will jt just return to factory settings? Sorry for added questions, I'm at lost with no knowledge since my DME sold to big company, can't afford them.
it depends on how old the joystick is.. the older ones (glogic 1) are fairly temperamental.. they have 3 different firmware versions.. and its impossible to tell which version is on the joystick from the numbers on the back of it. kinda have to 'try and see' find someone selling with a return policy if ya can. you may get errors when its plugged in, but leave it powered up for 5 min or so and see if the chair will move. sometimes the errors clear out after a few power cycles. and some of the errors may not matter as long as the chair moves. its hit or miss on these things unfortunately, unless you have a handheld programmer. good luck! let me know what happens :^)
i tried to order the new 3.5'' color r net with my qm 710 but insurance wont allow.i already plan on up grading after i get. by the way i forgot i have 626 motors.just lmk
check the brake levers on both motors.. flip them both a few times, then turn chair back on, and see if it makes a difference. sometimes hitting bumps can make the lever switches activate if things get loose
Greetings, I am a faithful follower of yours from Puerto Rico I have permobil C400 and a joystick R-net monochrome lcd and it is broken, can you fix the screen? Thank you
havent had much luck trying to find new screens - or other internal parts for joysticks.. "sometimes" sunrise medical has parts.. but im not sure about an actual screen module..
I'm glad to see that I'm not the only one who uses that trick. I put a bag over my controller whenever I eat, have wet hands, and I simply don't go out in the rain. But it would help then as well.
It was interesting seeing inside the newest controller. My new M5 will have the current version of that controller as does my partner's F3. Her old C300 chair has the old colour one which I've disassembled many times to repair it.
my c400 have one of those old models and man no rain no snow... cant stop them
Pardon my late comment but I only just watched this. A few weeks ago I received my M3 (with the new R-Net controller you disasembled) and discovered, to my pleasant surprise, that it had both IR and Bluetooth even though I hadn't included Bluetooth in my chair script. I've paired it to my PC and can drive the mouse cursor via my M3 controller so that chip does work without the additional Bluetooth 'module'. Haven't tried it with anything else so far. Looks like Permobil are including it as a standard on their chairs now! BTW keep up the great videos!
Nice video Dan. Question.. Have you ever replaced the charging port on R-net joystick. One of the pins is about to break. Permobil and quickie don't sell the part for fear of lawsuit. Curtiss-Wright the manufacturer shows a part #Neutrik NC3FPP 3-Pin XLR Female Panel/Chassis Mount Connector - Latchless - Plastic. I'm not sure if its soldered or pin connectors The joystick I have is the last review on the video. Any help would be appreciated Thanks.
anything is "replaceable" but - finding the parts, or a reasonable facsimile is the trick :^/ most of them i've seen are soldered on the inside though
what brand/model/year of chair do ya have? some chairs have a second charging port on them..
Thanks for the trick with tape! I really hate all those “cowbell” sounds.
Gotta get yourself one of those magnetic parts trays, be a nice upgrade from a ziplock bag.
Other than the tape trick, is there a way to kill the horn- i don’t mind the start up sound, or even the other indicator sounds, but more often than not, i hit the horn when trying to either tilt or shut down. I hate the horn! My voice is loud enough!! BEEEEEEEEP!! 😎 quicky QM 710 driver!
ive tried setting the horn volume to "zero" with a programmer.. but it still usually makes noise lol - seems to be one of the settings that the chair's controller completely ignores!
Take the controller apart and put some thin insulating material between the conductive rubber pad on the horn button and its matching tracks on the PCB.
I had an attendant control go bad recently. The only things I kept were the gimble, rubber controller hood and rubber controller tip.
They don't go bad often are but not always easy to find. I watched this video again. In addition to your outdoor cruzing, I like to watch your tech stuff too.
interesting note.. the joystick on the ROVI was NOT the same as the metal one i took apart.. hard to tell in the video but the screen was MUCH larger, and had some extra buttons.. and it was all PLASTIC
On Curtis/ P&G, the joystick gimbal may have different part numbers, but I bet they are relatively interchangeable. They all same to have the same housing dimensions.
Easy replacement for the joystick- got a replacement for a game console through Amazon!Joystick and boot together- $14!
@@TotallyNormal- My quantum wheelchair joystick has a short I think because one of the xlr pins on my charger is getting burned and I told my wheelchair guy said nothing was wrong but something is definitely wrong I need to clean the pin holes on my joystick because i don't want my new charger ruined I have to watch it charge or my charger won't charge my wheelchair its extremely frustrating!
ive found on a number of the quantum chairs they need to use a 5 amp charger.. and an 8 amp is usually whats delivered with them (too much amperage) I've seen quite a few with burnt connectors on the joystick, and controller cables.. BUT if the XLR/charging port is getting crispy - then something is DEFINITELY wrong!! those connectors should be able to handle 10-15 amps no problem.. unfortunately the XLR port on those isn't replaceable.. the only way to fix it, is by replacing the entire joystick. when you talk to them make sure safety is brought up.. "maybe it was smoking a bit" etc... if those XLR pins get screwed up things can get very sketchy in a hurry! those pins can fry everything if they're damaged at all - and LONG before the main breaker on the chair trips! so if they're saying there's a fuse that will protect it.. that's very incorrect! (yes there is technically a breaker or a fuse - but they are typically rated at 50-90 amps.. and the rest of the wiring can melt, or catch fire, without tripping that breaker/fuse) make sure ya press them on it.. damaged charging ports are bad! im not sure how old your chair is - but some of the older ones have very loose connections when plugging in the charger, and can lead to issues exactly like this. those pins are live at battery power all the time - even when the chair is off. be careful - and get them to replace the joystick!
Nicely done. I poked a hole in an older vsi controller years ago. luckily, there was a guy on ebay seller replacent button. It was pretty cool for $30 bucks. Its basically a slab of rubber and shorting buttons with double sided adhesive/ tape.
I have a controller question for you. When you upgrade your controller to a higher amperage, do you upgrade your circuit breaker as well? It seems likes your breaker would keep tripping off if you didn't upgrade the breaker.
haven't had an issue with that.. some setups have fuses on each battery, and other permobil chairs that have a circuit breaker, its only wired up with one of the batteries..its more of a 'battery isolation' circuit.. kind of a strange design choice.. but if there's fuse protection/ breakers anywhere, theyre setup for whatever the maximum available options are.. most power bases have an HD option with 120amp controllers... so short answer: nope! no upgrade needed! :^)
Have you ever accessed the onboard programming screen? I just found out about it the other day. I have the R-NET Color joystick like the one at 6:20.
You can actually mute the beeping, edit profile speeds, torque and all other sorts I don't fully understand.lol I was going to DM you on ig about it but figured you'd already know about it. If not I can take a video for you since it's kinda hard to explain.
yup! sure have - its a handy tool! unfortunately, OBP is disabled on most of the chairs that get delivered to people... I haven't made a video about it because of that - its almost impossible for people to get their chairs shipped with it enabled :^/
Which controller is most reliable
a. R-net JSM without lcd
b. R-net JSM with lcd
c. R-net CJSM2
and which one do you prefer?
this video is fairly old BUT the PJSM and CJSM2 are FAR more durable..
the older color LCD joysticks plastics/screens will crack literally for no reason! pretty sure it has to do with thermal expansion/contraction over time..
at this point, essentially all R-net chairs come with the PJSM, or CJSM2
the ones without an LCD screen still exist, but you're missing basic functions - like multiple profiles, on board programming, speedometer/miles traveled, error codes being displayed etc etc
@@TotallyNormal- Ty for your answer
Thank you for the informative videos. Is there a way to get a wireless control for Permobil F3?
theres no "supported" methods.. but if ya search around the googles, ya can find semi-technical ways to make it happen :^)
@@TotallyNormal- Thank you very much for taking time to reply.
Ok now it does not turn on, brand new ( minutes old ) tek guy say it just randomly failed, so controller; btw dealer fired him and never re ordered a new controller, can it be fixed or must be replaced?
depends on what happened.. i'd check the basics, cables, connections, the breaker on the back of chair etc just to rule out any of that
Would you know how I could get more speed from my extreme X8? Is there also a way to update the batteries to Lithium?
Question? My Q6 Edge Q-Logic Joystick quit, plugged Attendant joystick in Main joystick plug and it works fine so figured after watching your video I'd take Main Joystick apart. Problem, the 'Flipper" on/Off Mode switch has nothing under it. Was hoping it was like one you had that maybe magnet was off but just open space by inside of case by Flipper switch.
Any idea what could be wrong?
haven't taken apart one of those units yet... is it the OLD original Q-logic? or Q2, or Q3? send me a DM on twitter and maybe ya can take a pic and send?
@@TotallyNormal- Sorry, I have no idea what a DM on twitter(is this like attach picture in e-mail?) and don't know how put picture either, I'm lucky figure out how ask question here.
If helps it's the first series of Q6 Edge Part: CTLDC 1467 Model: 1751-0009. It looks like the last joystick you opened on here with wires plugged into 3 slots inside and Flipper swtch and Speed knob don't touch anything. I will ask my neighbor if can post a picture when he gets home from work this evening. Thank you for reply!
ah ok.. yea i havent taken apart a quantum joystick.. I'm unfortunately unfamiliar with anything inside of them :^/
@@TotallyNormal- "Thank you!" I do appreciate your replying and the information. Guess I'll try E-bay and hope for best. If you happen know if buy different joystick will I need a handheld programmer or is it plug in without programmer? Will jt just return to factory settings? Sorry for added questions, I'm at lost with no knowledge since my DME sold to big company, can't afford them.
it depends on how old the joystick is.. the older ones (glogic 1) are fairly temperamental.. they have 3 different firmware versions.. and its impossible to tell which version is on the joystick from the numbers on the back of it. kinda have to 'try and see' find someone selling with a return policy if ya can. you may get errors when its plugged in, but leave it powered up for 5 min or so and see if the chair will move. sometimes the errors clear out after a few power cycles. and some of the errors may not matter as long as the chair moves. its hit or miss on these things unfortunately, unless you have a handheld programmer. good luck! let me know what happens :^)
My joystick will not turn on I accidently hit it against the table how can I fix it.
i tried to order the new 3.5'' color r net with my qm 710 but insurance wont allow.i already plan on up grading after i get. by the way i forgot i have 626 motors.just lmk
cool! yea im gonna take that chair apart, and get in there to make sure its not just a problem with brushes - thanks though! will let ya know
R-net Short Joystick Cable?
I have a Quickie QM-710 wheel chair. And it keeps giving an error code PM M1 Brake Error 1505. It will not move, I need help please. Thank you.
check the brake levers on both motors.. flip them both a few times, then turn chair back on, and see if it makes a difference. sometimes hitting bumps can make the lever switches activate if things get loose
Greetings, I am a faithful follower of yours from Puerto Rico I have permobil C400 and a joystick R-net monochrome lcd and it is broken, can you fix the screen? Thank you
havent had much luck trying to find new screens - or other internal parts for joysticks.. "sometimes" sunrise medical has parts.. but im not sure about an actual screen module..
@@TotallyNormal- Ok, gracias
Hey how would I know if my joystick has a short in it?
is it giving error messages?
Interesting video, a small plastic bag helps
I'm glad to see that I'm not the only one who uses that trick. I put a bag over my controller whenever I eat, have wet hands, and I simply don't go out in the rain. But it would help then as well.
Thanks for your help.
Tecnologia Arduino?
Charging wires inside are horribly thin
yea.. even 8 amps seems kinda high with wires that small!
reverse engineering, cool