How to Install a Whole House Water Filter System
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- Опубликовано: 5 окт 2024
- List of all the materials & tools i bought: ($400 total)
Water Filters:
CULLIGAN WH-HD200-C Filter .......... amzn.to/2utRPSo
(alt) DuPont WFPF13003B Filter .......... amzn.to/2HEm7KD
Culligan RFC-BBSA Premium Filter .......... amzn.to/2urSzY7
iSpring WSP-50 - Water Filter .......... amzn.to/2HEiEfh
iSpring WSP-100 - Water Filter .......... amzn.to/2JDEqS7
PEX Pipe Material & Tools:
Crimping Wrench .......... amzn.to/2X7l4Xc
3/4" PEX Pipe .......... amzn.to/2Xa7NNL
PEX Cinch Rings .......... amzn.to/2GdeLLb
90 deg Elbow .......... amzn.to/2UzkIM8
Butterfly Valve .......... amzn.to/2P42oF0
3/4" Tee .......... amzn.to/2UeRq0v
PEX to Threaded .......... amzn.to/2VE7Bpy
PEX to Threaded 2 .......... amzn.to/2P7eNYI
PEX/PVC Pipe Cutter .......... amzn.to/2X0uLGW
Pressure Gauge .......... amzn.to/2IspLH7
Depth Gauge .......... amzn.to/2GdfoV3
PTFE Tape .......... amzn.to/2IfBDgk
1/2"Male to 1/4" Female .......... amzn.to/2Igi0EX
SharkBite 90 Elbow .......... amzn.to/2X40gQs
3/4" to 3/4" Male ..........amzn.to/2KzcajS
We bought a new house that had a well. We knew it had iron/rust in the water because all the toilets, tubs, showers were stained red from the water. But we also found out that we had 20ppb of Arsenic in the water. Only a Media Filter or Reverse Osmosis filter will get rid of the arsenic. But this filter system that i installed filtered all of the rusty water that came into the house first.
I'm super happy with how it turned out. Our water is much cleaner and the red stains have disappeared from our toilets & tubs. Also know it's easier on our RO filter system that we filter out all the rust before it gets to the smaller filters.
Disclosure Note: The above links are Amazon Affiliate links. There is NO additional cost to you, however I get paid a small percentage from Amazon if you purchase after clicking on the link.
whole house filter, how to install, culligan, dupont, pex pipe 
Хобби
Water Filters:
CULLIGAN WH-HD200-C Filter .......... amzn.to/2utRPSo
(alt) DuPont WFPF13003B Filter .......... amzn.to/2HEm7KD
Culligan RFC-BBSA Premium Filter .......... amzn.to/2urSzY7
iSpring WSP-50 - Water Filter .......... amzn.to/2HEiEfh
iSpring WSP-100 - Water Filter .......... amzn.to/2JDEqS7
PEX Pipe Material & Tools:
Crimping Wrench .......... amzn.to/2X7l4Xc
3/4" PEX Pipe .......... amzn.to/2Xa7NNL
PEX Cinch Rings .......... amzn.to/2GdeLLb
90 deg Elbow .......... amzn.to/2UzkIM8
Butterfly Valve .......... amzn.to/2P42oF0
3/4" Tee .......... amzn.to/2UeRq0v
PEX to Threaded .......... amzn.to/2VE7Bpy
PEX to Threaded 2 .......... amzn.to/2P7eNYI
PEX/PVC Pipe Cutter .......... amzn.to/2X0uLGW
Pressure Gauge .......... amzn.to/2IspLH7
Depth Gauge .......... amzn.to/2GdfoV3
PTFE Tape .......... amzn.to/2IfBDgk
1/2"Male to 1/4" Female .......... amzn.to/2Igi0EX
SharkBite 90 Elbow .......... amzn.to/2X40gQs
3/4" to 3/4" Male ..........amzn.to/2KzcajS
Why do you repeat this in the comments when it is already in the description?
A friend of mine saw this comment and said that he thought Dave had written it to 'push my comment down' and make it less apparent. LOL! I said 'what sort of self-centered, egoistic person do you think he is who would do such a thing to the potential detriment of the people who he has posted these videos to help?' When I told him I was going to post this he said that Dave would likely delete it, which would prove his point. I told him I would post this comment and when it was not deleted - and that Dave had probably not replied to my previous question because he was busy - everyone gets busy at times - that Dave would likely reply eventually and give a perfectly good reason why he reposted the information above that is already in the video description. He said that Dave could just come up with some other nonsensical reason why he wanted to delete this comment. What an imagination, eh?
@@Hogarth714 Many people don't look in the description, so i put the amazon affiliate links in the comment section as well, so people can see what materials i used.
I try to respond to lots of comments if people have questions. For all my video's on youtube i probably get like 10 comments per day. Most just say thanks or that i'm a moron that doesn't know what i'm talking about. But a couple a questions that people have, and if i'm in the mood i will answer them.
For example, look at the comment section below. Most people are just saying thanks. If there is someone asking a question i usually reply.
@@DaveWirth There you go. I will show this very reasonable answer to my cynical friend. Why it took over 2 years to do this helpful thing I have no idea, but I'm sure there is a very good answer.
Here is a few more tips:
You could have put Sharkbite 1" Brass Male to 34" Push on fittings with a short copper stub in the middle between your canisters. Since Sharkbites allow the pipes to spin you could tighten the male fittings without taking them apart or have to spin one canister.
It would have set you back $35 for the pair. One would work as well but me more trouble to setup.
You could add in a plex T pointing down with a Shutoff which would allow you to release the pressure and drain some water when you have the bypass going to change the filters. There is still water on your filter side when you turn on the bypass.
You never want sideways pressure on a Sharkbite fitting as it can reduce the pressure on its internal O-ring and cause leaking. Pipes should always enter straight on and level and have a clean even end. Cutting with a hacksaw might not give you an even end. Once you cut your piece out you should have checked for a flush end and if it was not flush used a small pipe cutter to clean it up. Almost all Sharkbite leaks are caused by improper installation.
Sharkbite fittings going to metal pipes do not need the plastic insert in the fitting. It is there to make sure plastic pipe holds it shape. If you pull it out it opens up the fitting for better water flow.
You want to make sure you debur the inside of any copper pipes you cut. Pipe cutters always leave a small lip which should be removed which lowers turbulence and wear. Not sure about hacksaws in your case.
I looked at the 10" Culligan myself but decided to go with larger 20" housings as you only have to change them half as often due to their large internal filter.
The clear filter housing looks cool but I have heard some people complain that they got algae growth in their canisters which does not happen on the opaque housings. Some clear housings are rated to lower pressure as well although the Culligan clear housing has a high pressure rating.
The silicone grease is a good tip to put on thr O-rings and threads. This makes the housings easier to put on and take off and they do not need to be turned as tight which makes the O-rings last longer. Many people over tighten their housings to try to stop leaks which kills the O-rings.
Personally once I got everything wotking I would have replace the plex and Sharkbites with copper as I think it looks better and be less likely to cause problems long term.
or a union fitting
Whoa, nice video. Just moved into our home with a well in West Virginia. Just like yours, one crappy and never changed old house filter. Your detail is most appreciated. I really liked the idea of clear cartridge holders. My water actually seems pretty good and certainly not as much rust and sediment as you but I do have a smell. So I’m hoping that there are different types of filters to choose from. I’m checking out your parts and will begin a design and order the parts you used. This Retired Veteran thanks you.
Hello Dave,
Nice and clear explanation and demonstration!
Expanded PEX is Type A PEX. You are using type B PEX which is NOT expandable and uses crimp or the cinch rings you have. You need a plumber's Crescent/adjustable wrench. Opens to 2 1/8 inches...With the nipple between the two filters, first take off the cans (easier to work with), screw one end of nipple into the first filter finger tight then screw the other filter on a bit. Now rotate the filter on the nipple. The nipple then threads into BOTH housings at the same time giving precise control over where the housings line up and both having equal tightness to prevent leaking. Don't be concerned with tightening AT THE nipple itself; actually it doesn't need the HEX nut. A standard one inch brass nipple would have done the trick! The way you did it, the first is good and tight, but the second loses some ability to tighten because you have to stop at the alignment point. It's an old trick for when a plumber is installing a nipple!
When cinching, cinch the clamp just a hair so it is not loose on the PEX. Then it can be moved to the exact position and fully cinched in two seconds.
There are brackets which usually come with the spin down filters that clip onto the clear can of the filter housing. Your vendor didn't give you any!
Use the same nipple install technique for the spin filters that are connected by a single nipple. You have a leak because you probably backed off the filter to line it up. At the gauge, just need more Teflon...
Why not just mount the spin filters in-line with the other filters. You have plenty of room and it will eliminate the Z in the piping/ two elbows, and the spin filter's drain won't be over the other filters.
The first pressure gauge should be mounted BEFORE all the new piping. That way it will always show input pressure. Mounted after the valve defeats its use. The second gauge is good, since it will show if the system is pressurized when the bypass is closed, and can be used to show the differential when in operation. Might want to swap the gauges to verify their accuracy. They might be different by a pound or two!
Additionally, the 3/4 PEX fitting will cause up to 2.5 psi drop in pressure. You have the room; use a metal or plastic "90 degree PEX bend bracket" and bend the PEX 90 degrees instead of using the elbow the elbow. If you have a 3/4 rigid conduit bender, that can be used to pre-form the PEX to get it into the 3/4 PEX bracket. That fitting not only lowers pressure but increases turbulence in the piping (possible noise source). Use of bends eliminates both flaws when using PEX.
The "big round curve"; eliminate with a 90 degree bend bracket; doesn't have to be attached, but it holds the bend in the PEX. If yo bend PEX, it will eventually want to go back to its original shape. Which is why the bend bracket is needed.
Note too that the fewer PEX connections, the more reliable the system is.
Instructions! Oh my! Just use the bypass valve built into the Culligan filter to bypass and change the filter. No need for all those extra valves to be manipulated when merely changing filters...
One problem with this Culligan (and many others) filter design is how the o-rings are used. O-rings were never meant to be CRUSHED which is what happens if the can is put on too tight. Notice the spin-on filters the o-ring is NOT crushed because the o-ring is on the periphery of the clear can and NOT on the top of the can to be crushed.
The most planned and detailed DIY I have ever seen. Salute
So glad I'm going with pex-a when I do my system. The tool is expensive but the installation is quicker and more reliable.
You are a saint for putting the shopping list with links in the description! Lots of people (including me) have a hard time visualizing and figuring out puzzles like this. You have helped with the hardest part. Thank you so much!
Dear Dave:
Fantastically wonderful and enormously clear overview and detailed guide to build and operate this water filtration system. I absolutely love what you did and am in total awe of the effort it took to plan, organize and purchase components, construct, and ultimately go live and test your design. And beyond all of that, to create a detailed video guide and real-time history of your project. How very generous and kind of you. Thank you!
I can only imagine how one day, many years from your having undertaken this adventure, your children…and, yes, even their children, enjoying this video and coming to know a part of you…their father and grandfather…and, hopefully, themselves, that they might not ever have known were it not for your fascinating videography.
Next stop: A video on afterthoughts and refinements; how over a couple of years the system has performed for your family; possible hindsight “do differents” or recommended changes to your project or work plan.
I can hardly wait!
Congratulations and, again, thank you!
Bill
Chicago
Thanks for the nice comment Bill. And here's the 4-years later follow up video: ruclips.net/video/OKzFrxKLDyA/видео.html
@@DaveWirth Thank you for your prompt response…and link hot link, Dave! I meant every word, too.
I found your YT archive and was up until after 2 AM looking at a bunch of your videos. Besides loving Italy, especially Florence and Venice…A N D Ravioli and Spaghetti…I came away wishing you were my father, or at the very least, neighbor, though I would probably drive you nuts with questions.
However did you learn so many skillsets? I mean from computers and wifi to struts and iPhones…and travel, and videography! Do you also sing, do magic and tap dance? At the same time that you are soldering.
As I watched you and your very, very lucky little boy paddle under the I75, with him sharing the paddle and ‘manning’ the GoPro, I couldn’t help but feel much and more positive about this crazy country of ours. Stories like yours should be featured more often on TV and other media.
Oh, be sure, there is a God and he is still working his magic right here on earth! And especially…in Michigan.
Thanks again, Dave. I sincerely hope I have the good fortune of crossing paths with you one day or maybe even talking on the phone.
Best,
Bill
P.S. Is there a series like your water filtration videos in the works for RO?
@@billwhelan869 Thanks, i just like to build things, it's something i enjoy.
I was going to do an RO video, but didn't really record the process of installing it, since i didn't know what i was doing. So there's nothing to show for that.
@@DaveWirth Thanks, Dave! Insofar as hindsight is 20:20, why not “reverse engineer” the process, highlighting where you were unsure or errored, and how you eventually found the best approach, etc.
For example, Two bona fide plumbers have told me different things about RO set-ups, one saying feed with hard water only, because the salt content in softened water will be too harsh for the bladder and ruin or damage it in short order, while the second insisting soft water only!
Both agreed on Chinese products being inferior…and that “manufactured” or “assembled” in U.S.A. is merely a dodge for Chinese components.
As for iron filters, they warn of a subset, i.e., iron only filtration or iron + sulfur filtration, therefore two different devices and two different price points, with one bound to fail in the wrong application, while the other will succeed by over working and costing more.
And God forbid the type of iron in your water isn’t “ferric” or “ferrous,” but instead, “iron bacteria,” which is difficult or costly to actually evaluate (“slimes seaweed?”…you decide!). It seems iron bacteria forms in layers in your well and so a simple “shocking” of your well may work for awhile, but the persistent iron bacteria will be back to pollute your entire system again…it not a matter of “if,” but “when!”
Hearing you explain with your tremendously logical and clear voice the problems you were presented with, the solutions you considered, why you chose what you chose and, finally, how it has worked for you, would be both interesting and invaluable.
I am sure that with a couple of Heinekens and a bit of reflection, you could do most of this…a rough draft, anyway, off the top of your head.
What do you think?
Bill
Chicago
@@billwhelan869 We just have 2 of the smaller RO filter setups - 1 for the kitchen sink and 1 for the bathroom. Seems to work fine. Removes the arsenic that is in our water so it's safe to drink.
WOW that was one of the best descriptive videos I have seen on You tube thanks!!!!!
Thank you, I learned and re-learned new things. PEX was just recently approved by our township so I might go with that.
Please wind your pipe thread tape in the direction that you would screw something on to it. This not only provides a better seal but will prevent the tape from slipping off as you screw it in place. I'm thinking your small leaks might have had something to do with this error. Great info on this video. Keep it up.
Yup, I just learned this lesson. When you unscrew them and there's no tape on the threads that's a sign you did it the wrong way. If you did it right, the threads will be smeared with white.
They also make teflon liquid
If the pipe screws in clockwise you wrap your tape counter clockwise otherwise it unwinds when you screw in the pipe giving a poor seal.
Best video I have seen on this yet. Great explanation and followup afterwards......Great job
Great video this helped my spec out what I need to do and just ordered similar items. Note the Anderson Metals male to male connector states in the description that it contains lead and not to be used for potable water.
I also posted this concern before seeing your comment. Amazon needs to stop allowing misinformation to be posted by companies - so far, hard to find lead-free connections although easy to find claims of “lead free”
After watching a week of RUclips videos from many sources and do it yourselfers, I'm more confused than ever. Depending on where you live will determine on what type of system you need because city municipal water is different from Rural Well Water. The best advice I've heard so far is to get your water tested first whether you do it yourself or by an expert. Once you've done that then you can figure out what systems you need. If you're not a do it your selfer like me, it's best to rely on experts in the field and professional Plumbing installers for recommendations on what will work for your home. There are too many choices and it's expensive if you choose the wrong equipment. But kiddos to guys like you who are handy and can figure it out so well done.
Very well done. Extremely helpful. Exactly what I was looking for! Thanks a million!
Good video
Just NOTE: you cannot verify filter pressure drop unless you have significant flow through the system (ie a shower) while you check the filter simultaneously
I did mine almost the same way and even with both bathtub taps open you don't see any detectable pressure difference on the gauges.
Great video Dave! We just built a large home to take in foster children. Our well is supposedly rated at 100+ gallons per minute and our pressure tank is set at 60 psi. After one month, we just noticed a lot of sediment that was clogging up the toilet valves. I dont' know what caused it, but we were running four dishwashers, 2-3 showers, and probably a few toilets being flushed. Fortunately I had watched your video prior to finishing the plumbing, so I put in bypass pipe and valves ahead of time in order to install a whole house filter and also a water softener. Looks like its time to install the whole house filter. Just ordered all the stuff you listed on Amazon and I really appreciate you providing that list so I didnt have to do all my own research on filters, etc. Thank you again for being so helpful. God bless!
this is a great DIY video that doesn't involve soldering and for people that doesn't get enough straight pipe length to put all the filters in 1 straight line. For people that uses city water, you can also add more filter stations for carbon filter, iron, lead, heavy metal filters, UV light, etc.
I really liked your video and your style of explaining everything. I think your subscriber count will grow more and more.
I like your filter system and am in the process of designing one for my house and decided to watch your video. It is very well laid out and thought out. I just have one comment and that is that the hex nipples you linked to on Amazon have lead in them. In the Amazon description it states "WARNING - This product can expose you to chemicals including lead(~2.85%), which is not allowed by federal law to be installed for potable water use in the U.S.A. and its territories." I only caught it because I am a hydraulic specialist and worked in the food industry for 8 years and I had to stay current on FDA/DEC/NSF/ANSI standards. Most hex nipples are higher pressure and designed for hydraulic, oil or fuel and are not NSF/ANSI Standard 61 (drinking water standards). Before you go and replace it, look over the hex nipples and see if you can see 61, 61-9, 61-G or 61/9G stamped on it, meaning they are food/drinking water grade. If not I would change them out. I prefer hex nipples over straight nipples, and about the only place I have seen standard 61 hex nipples is through McMaster-Carr. Like your system and cheers!
For some reason today all my amzn.to don't seem to be loading. But anyway, i thought that when i bought all the connectors, they were safe. I didn't buy all official shark-bite connectors because they were sometimes double the price. But i didn't think i bought any shady chinese connectors with lead in them. So i guess use the links as a suggestion, then buy the better quality version of the connector.
That was awesome .. gave me a good understanding of how i will filter my rain water tank at my hobby farm - Australia
I have a 50 feet borewell and the water isn't safe to drink the lid wasn't properly seated they had put insulation insulation around the lid and dirt was seeping in we have it fixed watching this video I can learn how a water filtration is set up easy I liked how you chose not copper as down the road they spring leaks and the psi gauge to keep a look out on water I like how you can flush out the filters and also change them I would buy this kit good video glad I found it.
That is one hell of a sentence.
Lol
I have the Culligan water filter with a clear base works out great absolutely love it
Good video, it’s extremely helpful. Crazy how the cost of these supplies have gone up a lot sadly.
That's quite an elaborate system, I have a single sediment filter that clogs quickly. I'm using GE pleated 30-micron fiters from Home Depot, $10 each when you buy a 4 pack. Good call on the clear covers so you can see the filters. I have the blue one and it's always a guessing game. I know when the water pressure drops, it's time to change, typically every couple of months. What I'm looking for is a whole home sediment filter that does backwash to auto-clean itself so I can get out of the filter-changing game. :)
Part I find funny is equating Michigan to high water pressure with a well. Use a bigger pump on the well and you'll get even more if you want.
This is an excellent video....the information is clear to understand....the follow through after installation shows the success of the project and the parts list can empower those watching the video with some direction to do this for themselves....thank you very much
Thank you for taking the time and energy to making this great tutorial! You made it clear and concise. I can now confidently remediate my crappy house filter that came with the house.
Great job with this video! Nicely explained and laid out, your brain works a lot like mine 😄 Thanks for taking the time to make and share your successes and hiccups that you ran into!
You should put the ball valves in so the handles point in the direction of water flow when they're open.
Really awesome instructional video. Putting in a ISPRING 3 filter system for city water that has a sediment problem. This has given me a good foundation to start my system. Thank you.
Thank , Great job. I just drove a well with a well point. Now I am going to put in a filter system along with a neutralizer. This video will help a lot.. By the way I have a friend that is a master plumber. What he does with screw on fitting is use teflon tape and pipe dope. I asked him because i was having issues with leaks. After I started doing that. no leaks..
Not sure why this has not got more views. Only change I would have made is to bring the top spin down filters up on a 2x4 just for looks.. Good job.. I will use it for my reference for my house.
Dave, A well done video. I learned a great deal and am designing my system now. A couple of thoughts you might want to research. I watched a shark bite video and one of the cautions when connecting to copper was to not scratch the copper pipe. I took this to mean don't sand it. The other thought is a copper pipe system is usually grounded to the electrical system. Even the water meter is bridged by a ground wire with clamps on both sides. Needed or not I intend to bridge the main water line where I cut it for inserting the PEX lines. Again thats for your work. Loren
I will probably put 2 or 3 2x4s on the actual wall, then screw the mounting board to that with a few screws. Mainly because if I ever need to pull the system down I will be unscrewing the entire wall mount from the wood and not the cement..those screws don't seem to hold well for me after their first time in the wall. Great Idea, and super job! 😀
Great video. I have a shallow water well and the water needs filtering. I plan to copy your set up and see how it goes.
excellent work 👌 bravo food grade grease i had the same idea wow great set up !!! get your masters
The guages are too far from the pipe. Water that gets to the guage is not easily returned in back into the system. So it sort of sits there. Great video and explanations. I'm designing mine now and this is very helpful. Thank you.
ya someone else said that the gauges don't really work to show the "flow" just pressure. I don't really check them any more and wouldn't install them in the future. well maybe just 1 but not 2
Dave, Great video. Very well done & simple to follow. Thanks
While you were at it you should've change those valves out for ballcock, I don't know if you noticed it but it seemed like water was coming out slowly when you cut it off. Good work, I'll be doing mine based on this.
Hero. Seriously excellent work. I have a municipal well, and I didn't know about those rinseable large-particle filters. I may simply go with 1 of those at 50 micron and 1 Culligan filter canister with a 10 micron cartridge... Hopefully, that setup would capture most things and will set up the water for my softener.
Hey after three years did you like your set up? That’s what I want to do. What water softener did you go with?
GREAT VIDEO!! Thank you!! A very professional job pal.
I will build one almost exactly like it.
One question though because you said it two or more times, about how great the water pressure is in MI. You started out saying that you have well water..right? If so, what would the water pressure in MI matter?? That's only for city water correct?
I was just wondering because you prove, to ME anyway, that your a pretty smart guy so I figured you must have a reason for saying it. Thanks in advance for your answer..and again, GREAT video!! Well produced, written, and recorded as well..both video AND sound! Quality work all the way. Maybe you should do a video on HOW TO DO a RUclips video!!😀 I would watch it!!
I just heard stories of people from states like New Mexico or Texas where they have wells that are several hundred feet deep and only get 3 gallons per minute. Lots of personal wells people have here in Michigan are around 50 feet. It was just a point of saying that i wasn't too worried about water pressure or flow rate dropping. But if you already have poor water pressure, then it might be an issue. Although i haven't checked since i put the filters in, we haven't noticed a drop in pressure from the shower head or anything.
That's a great idea. Just about to re-do my filter setup. New "used" house with some terrible diy "plumbing" with PVC pipes to copper to PVC to copper ... terrible.
I'm actually in the process of installing this in my outside well shed. Ordrerd the parts a month ago.
I will do the same this weekend but will use 5 stage filtration. Your video is excellent and gave me some ideas how to do mine.
I really liked this I feel like I could do this myself
Place blue tape onto the filter housings with the date and micron.
The difference in pressure could be the gauges if there are different brands and sizes.
I don't think the state you lives in affects your water pressure when you have a well (and a well pump)! LOL! Joshing you around, thanks for the video!
Nice video. Researching what route to go when getting a filter system. Thank you for the info.
Outstanding video. I learned a lot. Much appreciated.
That was GREAT!! Damn good work!! Very nice video as well. It inspires me to do my own as well. Even if I am all crippled up! 😬
good information - I thank I will go with the same system, but since I have city water I will use one 50 micron spin down filter
you did a good job and showed me step by step how to fix and install a water filter system, thank you.
Your friend from chicago O R
Just a note when considering PEX or other plastic tubing for water filtration: "researchers tested water in homes where plastic drinking water pipes had been installed, comparing different brands and types of PEX, PVC, polypropylene and high-density polyethylene. They found that PEX pipes released more odors and leached more chemicals compared to polypropylene" (chemicals such as toluene, which is neurotoxic, and MTBE, a carcinogen that's been banned as a gasoline additive, but is a byproduct produced during PEX pipe manufacture)".
I just finished my installation of a whole house carbon water filter and water softener using the CULLIGAN WH-HD200-C on this video (Pentek Dual-Gradient Density 50/5 micron pre-filter and 25/1 micron post-filter)and the SuperPro 80960BU Water Pressure Gauge. I wish I would have had filmed but I needed full concentration and 0 distractions with the camera. I really like the CULLIGAN filters, the only complaint that I have is with the water pressure gauges, are not accurate, they are very close to accurate with a 2-3 psi discrepancy from the real psi on that water line. Close Enough. I guess they are not bad for a $5.30 water pressure gauge.
You make it look so easy! Great job!
That's because i edit out the parts where i screw up. Although people usually like it when i leave the screw-ups in.
Nice Job Dave. I didn't know Culligan made those filter's. What's the difference between the HD200-C and the WH-S200-C ? Size maybe?. I'm trying to talk myself into doing this on my house. My plumbing set-up is a bit complex as far as lay out will be. Learned a few thing's. Thanks for posting.
The pressure drop you saw between the well gauge and the filter loop gauges may have to do with the gauge calibrations and not an actual pressure drop. Or you have a couple valves between the well gauge and the first gauge in the filter loop, there could be a little restriction there.
Fantastic work! Excellent job! Thank You for sharing. Using your links to order today.
Extremely helpful and I appreciate the video
What a great job! Well done.
I love that you have your comments at the bottom of the video. Well done ! :)
A long vedio, could nt dare to watch completely, but as Pioneer to open this vedio I want to congratulate on making good vedio
Great information! Thank you for making this video
I just watched your video. Thank you for sharing, because this assists in understanding the installation process. You explained the receiving and exiting of water flow in a way anyone can follow. Your explanation made for an easy understanding of the entire process. What is the black tank? You said the blue tank is a well, right? How is the taste of water since the installation?
black tank is the water softner. blue tank holds the water under pressure so that the pump doesn't turn on every time you need a little water. water tastes fine even without the filters. our issue was with iron in the water, not so much the taste.
@Dave Wirth this is a little bit off topic, I just noticed your thumbnail pic & I don’t know if it’s the lighting in the video, the device I’m watching it on, or type of camera you used, but I swear in the video you look like a white dude! Anyhow, like I said it’s a bit off topic, but regardless, thanks for sharing!
great explanation & tips👍🏼
Just now subscribed! Loving the content!
Wow, great step by step and instructions.
I see you still wanted to keep the salt softener?
I'm tired of it all.
$4,500 system, five yrs old, Culligan, and worthless now.
I'm going to what you're doing here, but doing away with the excessive salt use.
Thanks for such a great tutorial!
Will you be my son-in-law?
Lol
Could have used a simple union between the large filter canisters. Do you not use rust removal salt with your water softner. By the way great video, I'm in Michigan as well.
Great video, thank you for taking the time
Have to use the rector sealant for those pipe fittings teflon tape is not enough.
Great video, I need to do something to filter my water and can not afford a full treatment so think I am going to copy this.
You don't check for pressure drop when static, open a tap and get some flow through there to find out what your pressure drop is.
Oh. Good point. I should do that.
Great video. Your video caption says 1/4" female to 3/4" male adapter, but its not in your parts list. You do have 1/2"Male to 1/4" Female in your parts list. I think the captions might be wrong.
I don't remember. But i would suggest not even doing the pressure gauge. It was a waste, i never really use it and as some people have pointed out - doesn't work as intended. I thought that i could look at the pressure before and after the filters to determine if they are clogged. But as people have said - it doesn't work like that, and would only show a difference when there is flow. Plus i just look at the big filter cartridge and see if it's brown/black and change it based on that.
So i would recommend not installing pressure gauges.
You are years ahead of me. We bought our house needing new everything in 2022 and the plumber set up my well water filtration system so that it filters everything - including the water going to the outside water spigots. That means that all my outdoor watering helps degrade my filter so that I have to replace it more often. Is there any reason to include outside water in filtration??
Thanks for such great information!
My house had a bypass to the outside spigots. It was before the bypass to the softener.
No you don't have to filter outside water. It's not the end of the world, but ya you are filtering water to spray the ground.
Best video ever
My own research led me to believe that 4.5x20 was the optimal size, but you chose 4.5x10. Could you share your thought process? Did you find more filters from more brands available at that size?
the 20" would definitely last longer - meaning it would not need to be changed as often.
But i think the 10 inch is more common.
And i was able to buy the filters for like $7 - $10 each.
You might be willing to add a zeolite filter just to collect the mud, if any, before the filters. You can DIY. I did it and works very well. It maintains your filters cleaner for a longer time period. Regards. Santiago
What's a zeolite filter? I'm in the Philippines and the water is like mud. I have 3 10 inch filters but the first one clogs in just a few days.
The current version of the iSpring filter includes a mounting bracket, screws, teflon tape, wrench and installation instructions.
The clear plasting tubing to drain it is 1/2 outside diameter.
Great video, with clear explanation and demonstration! I learned a lot. I do have one question -- how do you feel about installing the spin down filter(s) "before" the outside water outlets. Sprayers probably don't matter much, but I do have electronic flow meters, and others have sprinklers and drippers. Wonder if you did research on that, or just can share your opinion.
Sure that would work. They are small and you can install them anywhere.
I just put everything together, but since you don't have to change a filter (just scrub them off once a year) they can handle any flow.
Loved it simple installation thanks for sharing your design.
Very Good Video, Thanks. This week I am going to set up the A. O. Smith Sediment Whole house Filtration system. I still don't know if I will use PEX or Copper pipes. FESsr. in Minnesota.
Great video, thank you.
Great videos Gary! I am learning a lot. I am still doing my research, but I have come across a local company that modifies the UV Dynamics unit by adding an extra 50/20 sediment filter in front of the 5/1 sediment filter and then the 10 micron carbon filter. Is there any advantage of this 3rd filter? Also, why not use a 5 micron carbon filter? The 10 micron seems to be the standard. I am drawing water from the lake.
Always deburr copper pipes. Especially when using shark bite fittings. Not doing so, the o-ring can get cut by the copper.
Tape and dope..... almost never leaks
Great Job!!!!!
Good video!! Great job amigo!
Watching this, and I had used teflon tape as well, major leaks...I then found the "liquid version" of teflon and that made a much better seal, no leaks. Also I am wondering why you had not used a GAC filter. My setup is 10" 20 micron "pleated" media followed by 5 micron sediment filter, then goes into a 20" GAC filter media and then it goes into water softener. Again great idea for a "bypass" so you can change out filter without turning off all the water to house.
Thank you so much for this video...one of the best I've seen. I am installing a filtration system now and got several great tips from you. One question - I need to also monitor volume...any thoughts on a simple flow gauge?
Not sure about a flow gauge - but looks like there's a bunch of them on amazon: amzn.to/3tB5y94
Also, i've said it before in the comments. But the pressure gauges are basically useless. I thought i would be able to see a difference in pressure and know if i had to change a filter. It didn't work like that. They always read the same pressure, whatever's coming out of the big tank after the pump.
Why didnt u use 20 inch filter housings that would have lasted much longer before needing maintenance? Also can u detail what u were talking about people using parallel connections? How does that work?
Yes the 20 inch filter would last longer, but i think it was more expensive and filters were more expensive. I liked the clear case, it allows me to just visually see the condition of the filter. And the 10"x4.5" is super common and i can get filters for $7 if i buy in bulk.
By parallel i mean the picture at 1:24. Basically you are doubling, or in that case tripling the amount of filtered water.
Damn son look like a science project or something lol but its good
NICE JOB
If your main supply from the water main is 1", then use 1" for the whole system. My system goes from 1" down to the 3/4" after the filters.
In the process of doing something similar
Just at higher cost for everything after covid
COuld you please list all the material you used and your plan so I can duplicate in my house
Check the description, or Pinned comment
Did you consider using PEX A as opposed to B?
Why the 2 90 degree turns if your pipe is flexible? Why did you not make a half circle with the pipe on the left hand side?
It's not that flexible. The 90 deg elbows releases stress on the pipe.
Very nice video, one question, the filter inlet and outlet are 1" rather than 3/4", is there a mix up on your male 2 male hex fitting? Also 3/4" PEX to male adapters?
I thought that the Culligan filters had 2 different thread sizes. They are threaded on the inside and outside maybe? Like 3/4" female and 1" male, so you could use either. ..... Whoops, nope, i just checked. It's the iSpring filters that have both internal and external threads. Yes the Culligan is 1". Yes i must have used 1" to 1" male to connect them and 1" to Pex on the ends. You are right.
Very interesting! Just wondering why you used 2x elbow and 3 sections of PEX on the left hand join (between the big filters and small) and didn't just form the PEX around in a C shape in one section? was the radius too tight or was there another reason?
Ya the radius was too tight, might have put a strain on the fittings. Similar to why i changed the bend at ruclips.net/video/0_F_xUKHwBQ/видео.html to an elbow so i could fit it tighter to the wall. I'm sure a more experienced person would know how to heat and bend the pipe more but i didn't feel comfortable doing it since it was my first time using PEX. But overall PEX was awesome and easy to use.