That will depend on how often you flush the system and the solid content in your lacquer. Looks like they're using the AcromaPro Bernyl Facett precat so you can probably do this flush for
@@sterlingbrownmiller9847 If you're spraying a precat lacquer, don't they contain cellulose nitrate? If so, all of the thinner recyclers I've seen and priced stated rather boldly that you cannot ever distill wash thinner that has cellulose nitrate in it. Apparently it's a fire hazard. Can you recommend one that isn't? We spray mostly conversion varnish but the occasional precat makes it's way into the shop.
@@mattmeadows8587 Hey Matt, sorry for the late reply I have two youtube accounts and didn't check this one. I believe you're 100% correct. I don't work for a solvent recycling company but our recycler in the shop has it printed clearly in the manual not to run any nitrate through it. I believe Katilac makes a precat lacquer without any cellulose nitrate. But in all honesty, if you're using Facett you probably will like that better. I'm not sure if you can separate cellulose out of the thinner pre distillation but then you'd have to go through 100s-1000s of gallons in order for that process to be worth it. Or get yourself a digital mixing setup for a post cat lacquer for zero waste and then recycle your thinner/ gun wash with a solvent recycler.
I have 6 Kremlins, and i can tell you they`re amazing pumps. But this guy is making the cleaning process look so complicated. Cleaning takes about 1min. 1) Run thinner through the lines. 2) pour some thinner on the nozzle and brush it a little bit. Us an air blower to blow any dust that might go into the nozzle and plug it. 3) put the nozzle cap back on the gun and drop it into clean thinner until next use. 4) Next use, get ur material into it and shut down the air, drain the gun and open the fluid line where it meets the gun so you clean the metal filter. Does not matter where the piston stops when you clean the pump. Maintenance on them would be the cartridge ($200 canadian) and the plastic seal at the end of the piston ($100 canadian), every 2 years on a pump that works 10 hours/day. On a new pump these things will need to be changed after 3 years of use. You can see laquer or paint coming up where the oil should be. Thats when you have to change them. I have a 10-14 thats 15 years old and works like magic! Better than the new ones. Only problem is the air hose. If catalyst touches it, you will have a hole in it in about 2 weeks.
Here is our Set up/Shut down steps that live by the system for students. With out standing in front of our sytem with labels it may be a little confusing but hopefully it is somewhat helpful. KREMLIN SPRAY FINISHING SYSTEM OPERATING PROCEDURES NOTE: Read all instructions before proceeding. These procedures are based on the use of lacquer finish. Other finishes may require slightly different operation. SET-UP 1. Ensure valve #1 on wall is on 2. Ensure valve #2 below regulator is on 3. Regulator should be set to around 80 PSI 4. Confirm that valve #3 is off 5. Turn Valve #4 by kremlin pump on 6. Gauge “A” should be set to 0 PSI 7. Gauge “B” should be set to 15 PSI (adjust this accordingly during clean out of material to get a slow consistent pumping action) 8. Remove wand from thinner pot and let drain 9. Place wand into your properly mixed lacquer 10. Remove air cap and fluid tip if present 11. Point gun at thinner pot and flush system until you start to see lacquer coming out. There will be a distinct difference in the constancy of the two fluids. As soon as lacquer stats coming out move gun over to lacquer pot and shoot a little into that pot to make sure the switch over is complete. 12. Replace air cap and fluid tip 13. Set “A” to between 25-35 PSI 14. Set “B” to 20-30 PSI 15. System is ready to spray, adjust “A” and “B” to get desired spray mixture of air and fluid and adjust spray pattern at the gun with fan adjustment screw SHUT-DOWN 1. Remove wand from lacquer, let drain and place into thinner pot (thinner in pot should be changed weekly, during high use times it may need to be changed more regularly, if you’re not sure ask one of the instructors) 2. Remove fluid tip and air cap, clean both with lacquer thinner/brush and place fluid tip in lacquer thinner bath on shelf 3. Set “A” to 0 PSI 4. Set “B” to 15 PSI 5. Pump remaining lacquer into lacquer container until thinner comes out then switch over to thinner pot and pump system for 10-15 seconds to flush the system completely of any lacquer left in lines (Lacquer comes out of the tip of the gun in a clean stream like syrup, thinner comes out faster and sprays in a wider fan pattern, there will be a distinct difference in how they look coming out of the gun) 6. Make sure piston is at the bottom of its travel when you are done this step. It keeps the seals all well lubricated so they don’t crack during start up the next time we use it 7. Turn gauge “A” and “B” to 0 PSI 8. Turn off valve #4 and #1 9. Release trigger into thinner pot to release the pressure of the lines 10. Replace the air cap and white seal cap over it on gun but leave fluid tip in the bath whenever system is not in use 11. Dispose of any waste material into proper barrels 12. Label and seal lacquer with date and name and store safety in the yellow cabinets
All good and well for clearcoat, no biggie. But for post-catalyzed color coats, including color changes, there's a lot more involvement. We went from charcoal gray to a white but we were not diligent or fsstidious in changing the colored conversion varnish, our white had to be resprayed because it was contaminated by residual gray caught up in the fluid filter. And you don't show about cleaning the fluid filter, you're showing just a simple rinse.
This is a great point to make. This flush that we do is simply to clear the lines and pump of catalyzed finish. We keep one system dedicated for clear coats and another for color coats. If you are mixing color and clear in the same system the clean out process will be much more involved.
Wow nice. very easy to use youre machine
Could you allow us to see the full printed descriptions of set up as well as clean up?
Thanks Jim
I just bought a Kremlin 15C-25 online and there isn't much info out there on how to operate it.
Any more videos would be great.
It looks like you're using the same lacquer thinner to clean out the system. If that is the case then how many times do you reuse it before disposing?
That will depend on how often you flush the system and the solid content in your lacquer. Looks like they're using the AcromaPro Bernyl Facett precat so you can probably do this flush for
@@sterlingbrownmiller9847 If you're spraying a precat lacquer, don't they contain cellulose nitrate? If so, all of the thinner recyclers I've seen and priced stated rather boldly that you cannot ever distill wash thinner that has cellulose nitrate in it. Apparently it's a fire hazard. Can you recommend one that isn't? We spray mostly conversion varnish but the occasional precat makes it's way into the shop.
@@mattmeadows8587 Hey Matt, sorry for the late reply I have two youtube accounts and didn't check this one. I believe you're 100% correct. I don't work for a solvent recycling company but our recycler in the shop has it printed clearly in the manual not to run any nitrate through it. I believe Katilac makes a precat lacquer without any cellulose nitrate. But in all honesty, if you're using Facett you probably will like that better. I'm not sure if you can separate cellulose out of the thinner pre distillation but then you'd have to go through 100s-1000s of gallons in order for that process to be worth it. Or get yourself a digital mixing setup for a post cat lacquer for zero waste and then recycle your thinner/ gun wash with a solvent recycler.
safety lock on gun number 1 before removing aircap very dangerous
Do you have to do this every day?
I have 6 Kremlins, and i can tell you they`re amazing pumps. But this guy is making the cleaning process look so complicated.
Cleaning takes about 1min.
1) Run thinner through the lines.
2) pour some thinner on the nozzle and brush it a little bit. Us an air blower to blow any dust that might go into the nozzle and plug it.
3) put the nozzle cap back on the gun and drop it into clean thinner until next use.
4) Next use, get ur material into it and shut down the air, drain the gun and open the fluid line where it meets the gun so you clean the metal filter.
Does not matter where the piston stops when you clean the pump.
Maintenance on them would be the cartridge ($200 canadian) and the plastic seal at the end of the piston ($100 canadian), every 2 years on a pump that works 10 hours/day.
On a new pump these things will need to be changed after 3 years of use. You can see laquer or paint coming up where the oil should be. Thats when you have to change them.
I have a 10-14 thats 15 years old and works like magic! Better than the new ones.
Only problem is the air hose. If catalyst touches it, you will have a hole in it in about 2 weeks.
I would also really appreciate having those lists of set up and clean up. Would you be able to provide them please?
Here is our Set up/Shut down steps that live by the system for students. With out standing in front of our sytem with labels it may be a little confusing but hopefully it is somewhat helpful.
KREMLIN SPRAY FINISHING SYSTEM
OPERATING PROCEDURES
NOTE: Read all instructions before proceeding. These procedures are based on the use of lacquer finish. Other finishes may require slightly different operation.
SET-UP
1. Ensure valve #1 on wall is on
2. Ensure valve #2 below regulator is on
3. Regulator should be set to around 80 PSI
4. Confirm that valve #3 is off
5. Turn Valve #4 by kremlin pump on
6. Gauge “A” should be set to 0 PSI
7. Gauge “B” should be set to 15 PSI (adjust this accordingly during clean out of material to get a slow consistent pumping action)
8. Remove wand from thinner pot and let drain
9. Place wand into your properly mixed lacquer
10. Remove air cap and fluid tip if present
11. Point gun at thinner pot and flush system until you start to see lacquer coming out. There will be a distinct difference in the constancy of the two fluids. As soon as lacquer stats coming out move gun over to lacquer pot and shoot a little into that pot to make sure the switch over is complete.
12. Replace air cap and fluid tip
13. Set “A” to between 25-35 PSI
14. Set “B” to 20-30 PSI
15. System is ready to spray, adjust “A” and “B” to get desired spray mixture of air and fluid and adjust spray pattern at the gun with fan adjustment screw
SHUT-DOWN
1. Remove wand from lacquer, let drain and place into thinner pot (thinner in pot should be changed weekly, during high use times it may need to be changed more regularly, if you’re not sure ask one of the instructors)
2. Remove fluid tip and air cap, clean both with lacquer thinner/brush and place fluid tip in lacquer thinner bath on shelf
3. Set “A” to 0 PSI
4. Set “B” to 15 PSI
5. Pump remaining lacquer into lacquer container until thinner comes out then switch over to thinner pot and pump system for 10-15 seconds to flush the system completely of any lacquer left in lines
(Lacquer comes out of the tip of the gun in a clean stream like syrup, thinner comes out faster and sprays in a wider fan pattern, there will be a distinct difference in how they look coming out of the gun)
6. Make sure piston is at the bottom of its travel when you are done this step. It keeps the seals all well lubricated so they don’t crack during start up the next time we use it
7. Turn gauge “A” and “B” to 0 PSI
8. Turn off valve #4 and #1
9. Release trigger into thinner pot to release the pressure of the lines
10. Replace the air cap and white seal cap over it on gun but leave fluid tip in the bath whenever system is not in use
11. Dispose of any waste material into proper barrels
12. Label and seal lacquer with date and name and store safety in the yellow cabinets
this pump work with electricity ?and need a compressor ?if yes what type of compressor ?thnk u
this system runs off of a compressor, no need for electricity other than to run the pump
All good and well for clearcoat, no biggie. But for post-catalyzed color coats, including color changes, there's a lot more involvement. We went from charcoal gray to a white but we were not diligent or fsstidious in changing the colored conversion varnish, our white had to be resprayed because it was contaminated by residual gray caught up in the fluid filter. And you don't show about cleaning the fluid filter, you're showing just a simple rinse.
This is a great point to make. This flush that we do is simply to clear the lines and pump of catalyzed finish. We keep one system dedicated for clear coats and another for color coats. If you are mixing color and clear in the same system the clean out process will be much more involved.