These scabbard and shoemaking vids are going to be a godsend for me in the not too distant future. I'm planning to order a Kingmaker in the next few weeks, and my father and I will be making its scabbard together.
To make a more exact pattern with the leather, I'd try wrapping the wood core up in weak masking tape. Then you just slice lengthwise down the middle (gently), and then peel away the tape in one piece!
Not a bad idea at all! Thanks. I’ve noticed that my leather shrinks just a little, so I would want to account for that and add just a little to the edges. I’m going to try this tape method today. (I just started a new scabbard!)
Hey Matt. Instead of using those big clamps, you can use those "office" binding metal clips. They are extremely cheap, easy to use and do the trick. I'm a professional guitar maker and use those clips to glue my purflings with them. You also use waaaay to much glue! Use maybe (if even) half of that, spread it with your special, glue spreading device (like perfectly demonstrated at 5:35), then close the scales and rub the surfaces against one another. They will stick basically by themselves. Then just use the small clamps around the the edge of the scabbard, (this is more than enough pressure!) and enjoy, a more relaxed and less messy way, to glue those pieces together!
You should consider looking into a router plane. Also, you should whip up a bench stop. Also, thanks so much for posting your instructionals. I'll try to share some of these videos around in the HEMA and Schola circles.
I personally used a router crafting my scabbard. it's probably not the most common accessorie to a toolshed, but you basically practiced using it in kindergarten. You just have to set the depth and "colour" within the lines
Excellent video, Suggestion: Gouge out the center before cutting the outline of poplar. You can then clamp it to the workbench, this will allow much better control of the carving tool using both hands. Additionally I would invest in some larger chisels, those small carving chisels are quite hard to hold and a larger chisel could be used with a mallet. Additionally make a strop and rub some jewellers rouge on it to keep those chisels sharp. I’ve used auto body polishing compound with good results too.
Great job. I'll be making one for my daughter and this has given me some great ideas. The one thing I'd suggest trying is dyeing the whole piece with dye and then sealing the leather with something like Resolene or Tan-Kote, letting it dry completely. Them go back and use the antique paste and seal it again after wiping the excess off.
Thanks for video. To me was important to see how you did decoration of your scabbard and even more how you handled your leather belt, because of it's quite difficult to find info about construction of the knight belt
next time you do tooling on leather you should use painters tape on the back to prevent stretch, use a draw knife for the lines, also moisten the whole item and not just the immediate area (this will prevent discoloration). if you use warm water (warm not hot) the molding will go easier. you are also supposed to use leather die before antique (antique can go over the leather die and is used more to bring out and highlight the natural aging as well as the tooling. when you mold the leather it will dry the leather out. this will weaken it and make it fall apart more quickly with age. this can be prevented by oiling it with neetsfoot oil or even extra vergin olive oil before you die it. (just rub a light even coat over all leather and give it some time to soak in. just don't saturate it) shellac is a good often used finish for leather but it usually goes on pieces that won't get access use. you may want to look into resolene and Skidmore's for the finish. your final product looks amazing.
When glueing my core, I clamped the top and bottom initially but the took a single piece of twine and wrapped the core, cross crossing on both sides to pull it tight all the way down and then took the clamps off. Worked great for me.
I only had two clamps and I found my core pieces were slightly warped, resulting in a gap in the middle. This allowed me to get a very even bind all the way and helped remove the warp. Im also trying to use nothing but hand tools, things a medieval craftsman would have had available, and the twine felt "right". Love the video btw. I looked for so long for a good resource and you're it man. Keep it up!
I watched your videos about six times and then set out to make my own scabbards for a couple of Swords I forged out. They turned out really well, thank you for the tutorial and inspiration.
Amazing work once again, I could watch you make scabbards all day long! I'm not much of a DIY-er myself, but if I ever get the tools and space necessary to do something like this I certainly will. I'm currently waiting for my first Albion (and first sword in general) but for now I've ordered a scabbard from Christian Fletcher, although I am seriously considering commissioning you to do one for me if I ever get a second Albion. Anyway, thanks again for the video, looking forward to the next one!
That's very kind of you. It's really satisfying to have something that you put time and effort in, even if it doesn't quite compare to a Christian Fletcher. Have you mentioned which Albion you're waiting on? It's exciting, isn't it? I think that once you have handled one, you've set a very high bar of quality and it's not nearly as much fun to buy a "wall hanger" after that. Hopefully I'll improve a bit in the area of leather tooling, but I'd be happy to help you out with a scabbard sometime in the future!
It's the Albion Aquilifer, the Roman Fulham Gladius. If funds allow I'm hoping that over the years I will build a collection from early Roman swords all the way up to late Medieval swords, so I'm planning on getting a Viking age sword next, so on and so forth. What about yourself, any more sword orders standing as of now?
I've definitely been tempted by Roman swords. There's so much history there, and they're quite elegant as well. I ordered the Sovereign and Duke a few months ago and I'm planning on ordering the Templar, Vassal, Vigil, Baron and Oakeshott before the end of 2017. The wait time is significant as I'm sure you know, so I don't want to put off ordering for too long.
Congrats on your first Albion, you will love it for sure and Christians scabbards are amazing as well, it's what I got for my first Albion, hope you are blessed with a less than average wait time!
That's a lot of orders you're planning, can't wait to see you do reviews and the like on them. Thanks Strigoil, I'm excited at the prospect of getting the sword and scabbard. Unfortunately I've been quoted 9-11 months for the sword and Christian said he will likely start work on the scabbard in May 2018 at the earliest. I ordered both a little over a month ago, so still a long way to go.
I've been doing leather work for about 6-7 years, this was the first time I've ever seen someone use the antiquing gel before the dye went on, you would have better results with the finish if you dye first then antique.
That's a totally awesome build ! I'd love to see a longsword version, with a 15th century belt attachement if you ever make one. Also, it'd be nice to have a list of the tools required at the beginning of the video. I'm glad I found your channel !
Everything Medieval (speaking only for myself) as single pieces, between $15-20 depending on the amount of work (less hammer time=less expensive) bought in multiples even less. I just made a archeological find based belt buckle for myself that I would sell for $30 and your needs would be smaller...
Your video was informative and the final result was a realistic and handsome scabbard. However, your choice of tools for making the chanels makes the process difficult and slow. Could I suggest you try to find a second-hand Stanley No. 71 Hand Router (in good condition incl.3 cutters anywhere from 120 to 220 Euros), and buy a 15mm Japanese Scabbard Chisel (Saya Nomi), unfortunately not a cheap chisel at about 150 Euros. A combination of these two tools will simplify and speed up the process. Dieter Schmid Fine Tools sells Japanese Scabbard Chisels, and Walter Sorrell Blades make a similar chisel. Keep it Real
When wetting you leather for tooling, ALWAYS case the entire piece of leather so you do not take a chance ending up with water stains on the leather. If you actually case your leather before tooling it, you end up with much better deep crisp results. To case the leather, soak it for about 20-30 seconds until the air bubbles stop coming out of it, then take it out of the water and lay it on a flat surface that will not absorb the water. Place Saran Wrap over it to keep it from drying out and let it sit overnight. The next day when you start tooling, you will see a world of difference in tooling your leather.
Thank you so much for this awesome tutorial! My first scabbard came out pretty good because of it. Could you provide the dimensions for the belts? About to start that part, don’t want to cut my leather too short.
Nice work, especially with the tooling of the leather - but what's the point of having a rain guard on one side only? That kind of defeats the purpose....
All the scabbard making tutorials I've seen use chisels to clear out the wood in each panel. Is there a reason you don't just use a flush bit router to do it? It seems quicker and cleaner, but I suspect there must be some rational behind not going that route. Care to share? Thanks! Great tutorial!
Router is faster, but removing the wood slowly allows for very minor/precise adjustments. If the wood core is not lined with a textile, I think you want the best fit possible. But if you’re happy with results from a router, then that works too. If you have the time, and you want a really nice scabbard, I think it’s worth it to spend the time and effort to make it as good as possible. Great question though.
@@MattsGreatHall, that makes sense, yeah. I figured it was probably something to do with quality and precision. I'm still a total newbie, and am just practicing on stuff for myself, so I don't mind the mistakes (at this stage). If I ever get more serious, though, I may just have to invest in some good chisels. Thanks!
Hi, you might be tired of people talking about Game Of Thrones scabbards! But I have a question, your front strap splits into two. I'm building a GOT scabbard and most of them have the front strap splitting into three, the top (the widest) simply goes around the top of the scabbard, lays back over itself, and is rivetted together. The rest of the front strap splits into two narrow straps, going over and under the scabbard, and they continue down the scabbard forming a series of X crossings (not sure how to put it into words). Have you done such a build? It would be great to see a video tutorial about those.
@@MattsGreatHall You're welcome! I wonder about the Game Of Thrones belts, scabbards, and dagger frogs. They use a fairly consistent design across the various characters. But I don't know anything about historical weaponry to know if the GOT things are goofy Hollywood stuff, or something that actually existed.
You probably already know this, but if you put the barge cement on both surfaces you are going to glue and then wait for it to dry, you can put the two sides together and it will instantly stick solid.
Its time for a real authentic Excalibur to be made and I mean a real one, migration period, and knowing that it was the scabbard that was enchanted, not the sword
you sir are a real professional craftsman, based on all those finished DIYs you've created. yet you said you're an amateur, but you're handiwork says otherwise. *confused*
Hey!! I love your channel by the way! I use poplar wood for the scabbards, and one of the really nice things about the wood is that it shouldn’t cause swords to rust. This is due to the very low acidity of this type of wood. The only issue that I can imagine arising over time is the wood drying out and becoming somewhat brittle. I’m not sure how the blade would react to resting constantly against varnish, but I wouldn’t risk it. Oil from the blade should not be an issue; if anything it might cause the moisture to remain inside the wood (which is a good thing).
Everything Medieval thanks mate, I was worried it was a fairly dumb question... I watched a video with Tod Todeschini where he explained that thing about the acid in other woods which rusts blades. I was just. Worried if long term oil on wood had any effect. I've bought a Albion Earl so already planning making a scabbard... Maybe I should start practicing tooling ASAP. You're doing a kick ass job here mate, shocking you don't have much higher sub count. Glad you like my stuff too. :D
Everything Medieval I'd love to know how you did the top (guard flap) as well. Did you just fold the leather over or did you glue it down? I see a lot of the ones online are stitched...
I have a bad habit of completing a project 98% or so, and then uploading the video when the project is not actually completely finished. The flap is folded over and not glued. When it's wet, the leather will basically take any shape, and this is what you see here. After I uploaded the video I did actually finish the edge with a stitch. It's probably not totally necessary (unless the scabbard gets very wet), but I would suggest a simple stitch to give it a finished look.
Thanks! Those are basically just hobby chisels. They’re available at almost every hobby, craft, and hardware store in the US. Here’s a link to one place to get them: www.usartsupply.com/USA-WCS-012?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-pqc2b3Y1gIVVwOGCh09SQSIEAQYEiABEgJvsPD_BwE If the link doesn’t work for some reason, just search the web for wood carving hobby chisel set. That should work.
Your work space really needs to be covered up when you're dyeing the leather. The smallest speck of dust will kind of ruin the finish. Otherwise it's a really good job over all. I think your scabbards are very nice.
is it possable to make this for a synthetic sparring sword? i'm using a regenyei longsword now but its illigal to train with a steel sword outside. so i'm willing to make this for my synthetic sword. im ready to do some unseathing techniques! :)
As long as the wood is thick enough, I don't think it would be an issue. Often sparring swords have a bulkier cross section to give them strength. But as long as you choose wood that's deep enough, I'm sure it would work just fine. Good luck!!
Ive thought so writing it :D "Did i just confuse an albion with a fabre?" ^^ Well. Both are upperclass, which can compete with historical originals. His swords are awesome. I have a XVI in the making. :) Scabbard from Dominique Humbert, which is a genius aswell. Ive spread the word of your channel via Modern Medievalist - facebook.
I don't believe you'll need to glue it. The leather, when wet, tends to shrink. I couldn't remove the wood core from the scabbard without cutting it off -- it's extremely tight. I'm glad that you're doing this project! It's really not too difficult. Hope it goes well!
I haven't found a supplier of chapes that are affordable/accurate looking. I've got some bronze chapes, but they're too small. I might try to cast these myself in the future, but it's probably even more expensive doing one-offs...so I haven't decided. Let me know if you know about a good supplier.
Tod Cutler UK todcutler.com/search?type=product&q=Chape Lorifactor PL www.lorifactor.com/index.php?d=szukaj&szukaj=Chape&x=0&y=0&szukaj_opis=1 HR-Replikate GER www.hr-replikate.de/katalog/indep/overview.php?period=5&lang=de&typ=2 Christian Fletcher USA www.christianfletcher.com/scabbards/chape-options/
Really enjoying the video and the channel! If you would like, contact me and I'd love to see what you would need for some custom buckles for your scabbards. PM me and I hope I can help!
These scabbard and shoemaking vids are going to be a godsend for me in the not too distant future. I'm planning to order a Kingmaker in the next few weeks, and my father and I will be making its scabbard together.
I am learning a LOT from your videos. Thank you so very much.
To make a more exact pattern with the leather, I'd try wrapping the wood core up in weak masking tape. Then you just slice lengthwise down the middle (gently), and then peel away the tape in one piece!
Not a bad idea at all! Thanks. I’ve noticed that my leather shrinks just a little, so I would want to account for that and add just a little to the edges. I’m going to try this tape method today. (I just started a new scabbard!)
Hey Matt. Instead of using those big clamps, you can use those "office" binding metal clips. They are extremely cheap, easy to use and do the trick. I'm a professional guitar maker and use those clips to glue my purflings with them. You also use waaaay to much glue! Use maybe (if even) half of that, spread it with your special, glue spreading device (like perfectly demonstrated at 5:35), then close the scales and rub the surfaces against one another. They will stick basically by themselves. Then just use the small clamps around the the edge of the scabbard, (this is more than enough pressure!) and enjoy, a more relaxed and less messy way, to glue those pieces together!
Welp, these are getting better and better man, really like the contrast on this one, also that dance at the end was amazing
Love the motifs you pressed in to the leather. You are very talented.
You should consider looking into a router plane. Also, you should whip up a bench stop.
Also, thanks so much for posting your instructionals. I'll try to share some of these videos around in the HEMA and Schola circles.
beautiful. would love to do this with my sempach
Creating a custom scabbard is a really rewarding experience! If you can find the time and can get the materials, I recommend it!
Esther Cameron: Sheaths and Scabbards in England AD400-1100 (BAR British)
Brilliant, detailed work and superb talent 👍🏼♥️
Hello lad, just found your channel, subscribed quick. Great content man, keep it up! Greetings from Ireland. 😊
I personally used a router crafting my scabbard. it's probably not the most common accessorie to a toolshed, but you basically practiced using it in kindergarten. You just have to set the depth and "colour" within the lines
Excellent video, Suggestion: Gouge out the center before cutting the outline of poplar. You can then clamp it to the workbench, this will allow much better control of the carving tool using both hands. Additionally I would invest in some larger chisels, those small carving chisels are quite hard to hold and a larger chisel could be used with a mallet. Additionally make a strop and rub some jewellers rouge on it to keep those chisels sharp. I’ve used auto body polishing compound with good results too.
Great job. I'll be making one for my daughter and this has given me some great ideas. The one thing I'd suggest trying is dyeing the whole piece with dye and then sealing the leather with something like Resolene or Tan-Kote, letting it dry completely. Them go back and use the antique paste and seal it again after wiping the excess off.
Thanks for video. To me was important to see how you did decoration of your scabbard and even more how you handled your leather belt, because of it's quite difficult to find info about construction of the knight belt
You’ve got a cool channel, I just wish you uploaded more
I took some time off. But I’ve got a new upload tomorrow morning.
@@MattsGreatHall cool 👍
next time you do tooling on leather you should use painters tape on the back to prevent stretch, use a draw knife for the lines, also moisten the whole item and not just the immediate area (this will prevent discoloration).
if you use warm water (warm not hot) the molding will go easier.
you are also supposed to use leather die before antique (antique can go over the leather die and is used more to bring out and highlight the natural aging as well as the tooling. when you mold the leather it will dry the leather out. this will weaken it and make it fall apart more quickly with age. this can be prevented by oiling it with neetsfoot oil or even extra vergin olive oil before you die it. (just rub a light even coat over all leather and give it some time to soak in. just don't saturate it) shellac is a good often used finish for leather but it usually goes on pieces that won't get access use. you may want to look into resolene and Skidmore's for the finish.
your final product looks amazing.
Good tips! Thanks. I'm a novice still...
Damn. Good job.
Great build. I’ll be using this as a reference for my own scabbard project.
I love your work,i have a similar scabbard,thank you.
When glueing my core, I clamped the top and bottom initially but the took a single piece of twine and wrapped the core, cross crossing on both sides to pull it tight all the way down and then took the clamps off. Worked great for me.
I might have to try that!
I only had two clamps and I found my core pieces were slightly warped, resulting in a gap in the middle. This allowed me to get a very even bind all the way and helped remove the warp.
Im also trying to use nothing but hand tools, things a medieval craftsman would have had available, and the twine felt "right".
Love the video btw. I looked for so long for a good resource and you're it man. Keep it up!
With that scabbard Deus would definitely Vult.
A new subscriber, looking forward to new videos.
great scabbard, I usually die then use the antique finish after. you may get a more even finish that way
Absolutely amazing work!!
Excellent work, you make it look so easy!
Thank you! I'm always worried that I'm making it look (or sound) too difficult!
Should use a saddle stitch
I watched your videos about six times and then set out to make my own scabbards for a couple of Swords I forged out.
They turned out really well, thank you for the tutorial and
inspiration.
You forged them yourself? You have my respect! I’m glad you liked the tutorial!
Amazing work once again, I could watch you make scabbards all day long! I'm not much of a DIY-er myself, but if I ever get the tools and space necessary to do something like this I certainly will.
I'm currently waiting for my first Albion (and first sword in general) but for now I've ordered a scabbard from Christian Fletcher, although I am seriously considering commissioning you to do one for me if I ever get a second Albion.
Anyway, thanks again for the video, looking forward to the next one!
That's very kind of you. It's really satisfying to have something that you put time and effort in, even if it doesn't quite compare to a Christian Fletcher.
Have you mentioned which Albion you're waiting on? It's exciting, isn't it? I think that once you have handled one, you've set a very high bar of quality and it's not nearly as much fun to buy a "wall hanger" after that.
Hopefully I'll improve a bit in the area of leather tooling, but I'd be happy to help you out with a scabbard sometime in the future!
It's the Albion Aquilifer, the Roman Fulham Gladius. If funds allow I'm hoping that over the years I will build a collection from early Roman swords all the way up to late Medieval swords, so I'm planning on getting a Viking age sword next, so on and so forth.
What about yourself, any more sword orders standing as of now?
I've definitely been tempted by Roman swords. There's so much history there, and they're quite elegant as well.
I ordered the Sovereign and Duke a few months ago and I'm planning on ordering the Templar, Vassal, Vigil, Baron and Oakeshott before the end of 2017. The wait time is significant as I'm sure you know, so I don't want to put off ordering for too long.
Congrats on your first Albion, you will love it for sure and Christians scabbards are amazing as well, it's what I got for my first Albion, hope you are blessed with a less than average wait time!
That's a lot of orders you're planning, can't wait to see you do reviews and the like on them.
Thanks Strigoil, I'm excited at the prospect of getting the sword and scabbard. Unfortunately I've been quoted 9-11 months for the sword and Christian said he will likely start work on the scabbard in May 2018 at the earliest. I ordered both a little over a month ago, so still a long way to go.
Magnifique.!
Excellent video!
Thank you, my friend!
I've been doing leather work for about 6-7 years, this was the first time I've ever seen someone use the antiquing gel before the dye went on, you would have better results with the finish if you dye first then antique.
nice video
I know this is 2 years ago but if your not. Try burnishing the leather edges. It looks better typically
That's a totally awesome build ! I'd love to see a longsword version, with a 15th century belt attachement if you ever make one. Also, it'd be nice to have a list of the tools required at the beginning of the video. I'm glad I found your channel !
Hey, thanks! Great idea-I would definitely like to make one with a 15th century belt attachment. Thanks!!
Everything Medieval I'll be there to watch it for sure ! This make me want to try it myself, which I had never considered before
As a blacksmith who makes smaller appliances I would heartily suggest finding a smith to make your buckles....
Any idea what these would typically cost?
Everything Medieval (speaking only for myself) as single pieces, between $15-20 depending on the amount of work (less hammer time=less expensive) bought in multiples even less. I just made a archeological find based belt buckle for myself that I would sell for $30 and your needs would be smaller...
I still hope you come back soon.
Your video was informative and the final result was a realistic and handsome scabbard. However, your choice of tools for making the chanels makes the process difficult and slow. Could I suggest you try to find a second-hand Stanley No. 71 Hand Router (in good condition incl.3 cutters anywhere from 120 to 220 Euros), and buy a 15mm Japanese Scabbard Chisel (Saya Nomi), unfortunately not a cheap chisel at about 150 Euros. A combination of these two tools will simplify and speed up the process. Dieter Schmid Fine Tools sells Japanese Scabbard Chisels, and Walter Sorrell Blades make a similar chisel. Keep it Real
Thanks for the tips! I’ll have to take a look at those tools.
awesome!
When wetting you leather for tooling, ALWAYS case the entire piece of leather so you do not take a chance ending up with water stains on the leather. If you actually case your leather before tooling it, you end up with much better deep crisp results. To case the leather, soak it for about 20-30 seconds until the air bubbles stop coming out of it, then take it out of the water and lay it on a flat surface that will not absorb the water. Place Saran Wrap over it to keep it from drying out and let it sit overnight. The next day when you start tooling, you will see a world of difference in tooling your leather.
earned my subscription...
new subscriber, love what your doing
Thank you so much for this awesome tutorial! My first scabbard came out pretty good because of it. Could you provide the dimensions for the belts? About to start that part, don’t want to cut my leather too short.
Nice work, especially with the tooling of the leather - but what's the point of having a rain guard on one side only? That kind of defeats the purpose....
جميل جدآ شكرآ الك.
All the scabbard making tutorials I've seen use chisels to clear out the wood in each panel. Is there a reason you don't just use a flush bit router to do it? It seems quicker and cleaner, but I suspect there must be some rational behind not going that route. Care to share? Thanks! Great tutorial!
Router is faster, but removing the wood slowly allows for very minor/precise adjustments. If the wood core is not lined with a textile, I think you want the best fit possible. But if you’re happy with results from a router, then that works too. If you have the time, and you want a really nice scabbard, I think it’s worth it to spend the time and effort to make it as good as possible. Great question though.
@@MattsGreatHall, that makes sense, yeah. I figured it was probably something to do with quality and precision. I'm still a total newbie, and am just practicing on stuff for myself, so I don't mind the mistakes (at this stage). If I ever get more serious, though, I may just have to invest in some good chisels.
Thanks!
Hi, you might be tired of people talking about Game Of Thrones scabbards! But I have a question, your front strap splits into two. I'm building a GOT scabbard and most of them have the front strap splitting into three, the top (the widest) simply goes around the top of the scabbard, lays back over itself, and is rivetted together. The rest of the front strap splits into two narrow straps, going over and under the scabbard, and they continue down the scabbard forming a series of X crossings (not sure how to put it into words). Have you done such a build? It would be great to see a video tutorial about those.
I have not done a scabbard like that...but I could. Thank you for the suggestion!
@@MattsGreatHall You're welcome! I wonder about the Game Of Thrones belts, scabbards, and dagger frogs. They use a fairly consistent design across the various characters. But I don't know anything about historical weaponry to know if the GOT things are goofy Hollywood stuff, or something that actually existed.
Nice. I would highly suggest evening out the sound levels so it is not so up and down, otherwise great stuff :)
Amazing, very nice scabbard. But how do you wear this? Do you need a ring belt to attach the scabbard?
WOW!!!!
You probably already know this, but if you put the barge cement on both surfaces you are going to glue and then wait for it to dry, you can put the two sides together and it will instantly stick solid.
nice continue assim parabéns , armadura de pele já fez
at this point i would have used jute cordage
Its time for a real authentic Excalibur to be made and I mean a real one, migration period, and knowing that it was the scabbard that was enchanted, not the sword
Love this idea. Just started working on it tonight!
how do you tie the belt? it's not shown in the video
Where do you get your woodworking tools? I haven't been able to find anything that affordable.
you sir are a real professional craftsman, based on all those finished DIYs you've created.
yet you said you're an amateur, but you're handiwork says otherwise. *confused*
Hey man, great video. Just wondering why you don't have to varnish the inside of the wood. Does the oil on the sword not effect it. Thanks. :D
Hey!! I love your channel by the way! I use poplar wood for the scabbards, and one of the really nice things about the wood is that it shouldn’t cause swords to rust. This is due to the very low acidity of this type of wood. The only issue that I can imagine arising over time is the wood drying out and becoming somewhat brittle. I’m not sure how the blade would react to resting constantly against varnish, but I wouldn’t risk it. Oil from the blade should not be an issue; if anything it might cause the moisture to remain inside the wood (which is a good thing).
Everything Medieval thanks mate, I was worried it was a fairly dumb question... I watched a video with Tod Todeschini where he explained that thing about the acid in other woods which rusts blades. I was just. Worried if long term oil on wood had any effect. I've bought a Albion Earl so already planning making a scabbard... Maybe I should start practicing tooling ASAP.
You're doing a kick ass job here mate, shocking you don't have much higher sub count.
Glad you like my stuff too. :D
Everything Medieval I'd love to know how you did the top (guard flap) as well. Did you just fold the leather over or did you glue it down? I see a lot of the ones online are stitched...
I have a bad habit of completing a project 98% or so, and then uploading the video when the project is not actually completely finished. The flap is folded over and not glued. When it's wet, the leather will basically take any shape, and this is what you see here. After I uploaded the video I did actually finish the edge with a stitch. It's probably not totally necessary (unless the scabbard gets very wet), but I would suggest a simple stitch to give it a finished look.
Great video and i am liking your channel. What are those cheap gouge/chisel things you use and where do you buy them?
Thanks! Those are basically just hobby chisels. They’re available at almost every hobby, craft, and hardware store in the US. Here’s a link to one place to get them: www.usartsupply.com/USA-WCS-012?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-pqc2b3Y1gIVVwOGCh09SQSIEAQYEiABEgJvsPD_BwE
If the link doesn’t work for some reason, just search the web for wood carving hobby chisel set. That should work.
Everything Medieval thanks for the info
I need to make one but no way I could do something like this
You should try! It’s easier than it looks I think.
@@MattsGreatHall you make it look easy I usually screw up the carving part
Why aren't you moistened the entire piece of leather when you're stamping?
Next step : CHAINMAIL BUILD !!!!
Your work space really needs to be covered up when you're dyeing the leather. The smallest speck of dust will kind of ruin the finish. Otherwise it's a really good job over all. I think your scabbards are very nice.
Thank you for the tip! I'm working on another scabbard video now and I'll make sure I'm more careful when dying. Thanks!
What are the measurements for the risers on the sheath?
2", 3", 6" and 8" when measuring from the scabbard's opening at the top.
Thank you @@MattsGreatHall!
Where did you get your leather from?
is it possable to make this for a synthetic sparring sword? i'm using a regenyei longsword now but its illigal to train with a steel sword outside. so i'm willing to make this for my synthetic sword. im ready to do some unseathing techniques! :)
As long as the wood is thick enough, I don't think it would be an issue. Often sparring swords have a bulkier cross section to give them strength. But as long as you choose wood that's deep enough, I'm sure it would work just fine. Good luck!!
Awesome channel. Gotta watch all your vids.
Is that sword a work of Gael Fabre?
Thanks! It's an Albion Knight. I've heard good things about Fabre swords, but I've never handled one.
Ive thought so writing it :D "Did i just confuse an albion with a fabre?" ^^
Well. Both are upperclass, which can compete with historical originals.
His swords are awesome. I have a XVI in the making. :) Scabbard from Dominique Humbert, which is a genius aswell.
Ive spread the word of your channel via Modern Medievalist - facebook.
Thank you! I appreciate your help in letting people know about the channel!
do you glue the leather on the wood core or just mould it on?
I don't believe you'll need to glue it. The leather, when wet, tends to shrink. I couldn't remove the wood core from the scabbard without cutting it off -- it's extremely tight.
I'm glad that you're doing this project! It's really not too difficult. Hope it goes well!
thanks really much for the reply, it's been great help!:)
What thickness of leather do you use?
Typically, I use 4 oz. to 5 oz. "single shoulder" pieces.
Everything Medieval thanks.
What’s a chape?
Bravo Company General Nelson A metal protective tip attached to the bottom of the scabbard it is, usually decorated in some way
Nice Video, but what is with the chape?
I haven't found a supplier of chapes that are affordable/accurate looking. I've got some bronze chapes, but they're too small. I might try to cast these myself in the future, but it's probably even more expensive doing one-offs...so I haven't decided. Let me know if you know about a good supplier.
Tod Cutler UK
todcutler.com/search?type=product&q=Chape
Lorifactor PL
www.lorifactor.com/index.php?d=szukaj&szukaj=Chape&x=0&y=0&szukaj_opis=1
HR-Replikate GER
www.hr-replikate.de/katalog/indep/overview.php?period=5&lang=de&typ=2
Christian Fletcher USA
www.christianfletcher.com/scabbards/chape-options/
What wood do you use ?
Poplar wood. It’s usually available in long, flat pieces. These measure 3.5 inches by 48 inches.
your green screen is leaking in the middle there.
Score the outline first and wear a cheap cycling gloves.
Were can I buy legit leather?
Try Tandy Leather. They’re the best.
Everything Medieval ok thanks
SARA SOUZA
Ando mal sós oro pq
Fiwow mal sós oro owp Ele não me
Aldo
Really enjoying the video and the channel! If you would like, contact me and I'd love to see what you would need for some custom buckles for your scabbards. PM me and I hope I can help!