Goddamn dude you’re a great pilot. I keep telling people they are my inspiration but the FPV community is full of such friendly guys&gals it’s unreal. Plus there are just so many intelligent people. I just got my tinyhawk 2 a few days ago, I’m now totally obsessed with FPV. It’s legit changing my life for the better, pulled me right out of one of the most depressive episodes I’ve ever faced. 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻 Keep being awesome bro.
dude thanks so much I hear you! Its done a lot for me as well. I used to stay away from RC shops in my town because some of the people were so unfriendly lol but FPV pilots are a whole other thing.. its an awesome community!
Congrats n welcome bro, 1 big advice don't spend bunch on analog, invest in DJI FPV from da jump, it's rediculous, check any of my vids, all just goggle dvr superviewed, lol so easy
Max Beamer alright so I’m ready to build my first 6s 5in quad. I fully plan on racing, I love racing. I logged about 100 hours into liftoff since I got it Sunday lol. I love my tinyhawk 2 but it’s not enough. I want to be able to surf mountains and have range, and max speed. In liftoff I absolutely do best with the talon svx 220, ak mistral and the armattan mongoose I think. Should I try to build a machine that does both good, or if I know I’m gonna be in this for the long haul should I just build a 5in for race and a 5in for freestyle?
Nice video. I have been flying with my fc in the rear since about the same time Kabab started doing it and I have even designed and flown a quad with a vertically orientated fc and esc - worked fine. But the simple answer to all the "fc in the center of the kwad" people is that the gyro doesn't give a shit where it is, it simply needs to know where it is moving relative to its set state. Also - regarding you theory, your explanation is on the right track. The fc firmware no-a-days is so good that we actually should be using stiffer mounting solutions. You have increased the stiffness in your mounting solution which increases the frequencies that the gyro sees and in turn makes it easier to filter out while at the same time using less filtering to do the job - i.e. making it fly so much better and easier to tune for performance.
I think most the problems is caused by the arms are like tuning forks that send all the bad down right into stacks by you having it away it helps I have a scimitar lrx that has the stack mounted from top and a bracket on the bottom so no contacted with arms . I think like in archery the limb pockets where the reason we saw better fast bows was do to learning how to filter vibrations out from the violent reaction when a arrow and string get ripped forward at 300fps . Like we have with are arms it's like a bow I think if we did something to how the arms are attached and othe stuff we would see less filtering. That my theory on it
Really useful information. I've been flying for nearly 4 years and didn't know this. I've got a 6S setup (1950Kv TOA Turbines) and a older 4S setup using 2300Kv Brotherhobby motors which are still getting manufactured and I love them, they're super reliable, so I'll definitely be trying out some 6S on them too using this information.
Hey bud I've been doing this for a long time on my own just learning and testing a lot of set ups lately I've been using super low kv but before I started with high kv 2408 2500kv motors on 7inch 6inch and 5inch and the only problems I've had is the voltage spikes you get during regenerative braking seem to be much more severe on the higher kv. I've found on the lower kv I just have a much higher reliability rate. Do you not see the samething? I haven't tested it enough to say this is conclusive or anything.
not really seen that but if you have a problem with braking just turn it off in blheli suite. You could also add a capacitor to deal with voltage spikes, I have a small 550uf on every build altho I recommend a bit bigger around 550-1000uf
@@MaxBeamer what voltage are you caps? Also I was under the impression the regenerative braking is needed to stop the props and perform quick manuevers and that the option to shut it off on blheli suite is only there because you don't want braking in air planes but from what I hear you really need it in quads. I have found adding caps on each esc and using individual escs helped me with this issue tons also fettec voltage spike absorbers are working amazingly well. Prior to using those two methods I was using 4in1 escs and one big 35v cap but those would always pop when I would put 6s on which that seems to stop happening when I made the switch to 50v so maybe the spikes were causing the caps to die and then cause damage to the esc since there's no more cap protection. Hard for me to explain this because I am still learning how to even understand how all this works but so far I think I got the problem solved by using individual escs and the spike abosrber and caps on each esc when I want to use 6s and high kv I use this method otherwise on 4s I don't have problems and don't have to do all the extra stuff it's only when I try to run 6s on some high kv motors like 2500kv or higher which isn't recommended but it's oh so fun when u can get a reliable set up running like that
Great info thank you! I think I’m officially switching to 6s. The only thing I’m sticking with 30 x 30 esc’s. I have put hundreds of packs killing the throttle on 2408 and even 2806.5 motors and never blew an esc.
no the throttle limit will basically chop the top off your throttle rc output the motor output limiter will actually limit the power going to your motors from the esc and it will do so in an evenly without just chopping off the top end rather giving you an average decrease in apparent voltage as if you were running a lower cell pack.
FPV QUARTERS I recommend doing it from the goggles like I show somewhere in the middle of this vid or you can do a cli command of Set motor_output_limit = x ... where x is the percent power you want
I don't think so but they aren't that different at all, maybe the p gains are a bit lower on 6s with a bit higher I gains. gonna retune soon anyway on 4.2 ill make a video
Or save $ wait a few months for beta flight 4.2, feature that keeps motor rpm same regardless of pack sag, n stay 4s, n don't stress ur shit w 6s voltage...YW ;)
For people wanting to try this, Two things: even though this digitally changes the kv of your motor, it will not physically change any differences higher kv motor windings on your current motors give you. Not sure what those differences are, but the windings that give a motor it’s kv will persist through this. Also, on higher voltage you may need to change your pids to get it to work right, but in the video this wasn’t needed.
Joshua Bardwell didn't do a very good job of explaining motor output limiting, at the time of his vid it had all sorts of bugs but I'm sure he'll revisit it at some point. as far as the PIDs I changed them slightly but not by 20% and not all of them evenly by any means.
Max Beamer ill edit my comment then,he’s great but I won’t take his word on everything lol. Also since you’re here I was wondering, I just watched your video on the 5 inch carbon fiber azure biblade props and they sound absolutely amazing in the GoPro footage, do they sound that way in person? I love the deep hum sound they give off but the GoPro could be amplifying it. Thanks!
🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️smart man. 👌🏻 So question tho, do u play with the Kv of the higher end motors or the lower kv motors? And have u tested this with 4s battery just to find the best motor/battery efficiency
not sure I understand the question but ill give it a shot. basically I get motors with higher kv that way I can limit them to whatever I want on whatever size lipo.. Since the limiting only works in one direction (cant raise the motor kv only lower it) as far as efficiency, limiting down to a certain kv is a little less efficient than actually using a lower kv motor but not by much at all to where id consider not doing it. and I haven't officially tested anything this is just from my experience flying like this over the last 6 months or so.
Can you tell me max I just bought Xing 1700kv for 6s but iv only one pack but Iv tons of 4s iv two drones one 6s and 4s ...could I use the 4s drone and just move the motor output down for 6s and back to 100 for 4s
Do you have same benefits on flight time as they say about a 6s build on 1750kv for example? Running 6s on 2500kv.. and lowering this trottle percentage?
Bro! I'm on my 5th Hobbywing in a year!! I just switched to the f7 20x20. If this doesn't last I'm done. Everyone says they're so good. I'm burning them out from medium to small crashes in grass. Good to know it's not just me.
So what esc settings are you using for that? I have a Hobbywing 60a, Xing 2207 2450kv motors and Revolt osd and going to try a 70% limit on it. What fo you recommend for esc settings? 48khz, demag low, timing auto?
6s motors are just a range of kv between like 1600-1950.. by doing this you can have any kv you want and adjust until its perfect for your setup or change kv whenever you need to anytime from the goggles
Max Beamer ok I’m new and just bought parts, so he was like what, if 4s motors r cheaper but I can make the faster then y waste money on 6s motors lol thx for clarifying
someone at a group told me that my flight controller being in the back of the frame is a bad thing cause its like "off axis" and not centered. but i thought about it, and i believe it is the exact same as if it were in the center. change my mind
That's a tough one, they are so different and so much of the cinematic stuff comes from the pilot and rates. They do fly pretty differently tho so for versatility id go brain but for out the box cinematic only id probably go flightone.
@@MaxBeamer cheers mate went with the millivolt, I'm pretty much trying to copy your build just stuck on witch motor will be best without breaking the bank, iv been looking at the Gts v2 2207 2500kv?
@@MaxBeamer Also whether you put a random F4 fc vs BrainLi you still are going to run betaflight so no much difference right? Imo as ive tested cinewhoop beatflight vs FL1 its a compromise flighttime vs better performance and stability control.
Gio Fpv the brain fc uses a different gyro with better internal filtering before betaflight gets to the signal. They also run their own version of BF fw bc of the Bosch gyro’s locked 3.2khz sample rate
@@MaxBeamer good to know, im not that expert about it but now i definitely wont get rid of that spare brainli ive got in my drawer. Cheers man. what about the ESC question i am hoping to get some info?
Nice video. I'm 3 days into Velocidrone and while I can fly it's not at all as smooth as what you're doing here. That said, are you able to fly as smoothly on the SIM's? It would be helpful to understand since if the SIM doesn't fly this smooth I'm not waiting forever to fly close to the ground and other objects in real life.
I fly pretty similar in the sim, the main thing for flying smooth is rates, make them a bit slower or add expo and then try and use as little input as possible, just guide the quad and let it do its own thing.. It sounds counter intuitive but you'll get the hang of it with some practice.
@@MaxBeamer What kind of issues did you have? I had one quad have massive bobbles on 48khz. At 24khz pretty much gone. Also are your ESC recommendations still the same? You still building your quads with FC at the back?
Max Beamer Definitely make sure to check battery rating. Cooking voltage regulators are not fun. Some flight controllers you can get away without having the regulator, but means you will need a battery to connect to your pc in some cases. Been there done that. Betaflight f4 flight controllers
So if I bought the 6s 55 amp aikon and f7 flight controller I should be good..I have the lal 5.1 with 2507 motor and flight controller have been popping like they are free.
I haven't done an A B test but that's a good question about the amp draw.. it should be lower since you'd still be using a higher voltage source and its not getting limited until it leaves the ESC but ill have to check to be sure. zero desync, no changes in turtle that im aware of
Nice Vid. Hey I know this sounds dumb but can I still get a 4s motor with the Geprc Stable Pro Mini Stack in 2020 or should i already get the 6s motors?
@@MaxBeamer Sry I was dumb at writing, i am about to build my first kwad and i mean if i should build it with a 4s motor or a 6s motor to fly it with a 6s battery
Hey buddy im so undecided to get either the aikon or the hobbywing as im running 2700kv on 4s. rotorx would be more appropriate as its 60A burst but your opinion its the first in incur and i am a bit sceptic. just wondering why and what exactly made you move over ?
I’d go with the aikon all day. they have the best quality control imo I’ve had hobbywing 60a burn up for no reason and come defective out the box before, they replaced the defective ones but even that process was a huge pain where I had to fill out forms and ship the esc back. I stand by the aikons.
@@MaxBeamer Understand, thanks for the clarification. Ive heard about the Hobbyw60A, however the micro20x20 40A then looks like it didnt come out with any sort of issues. looks like solid?
for sure man, having it up against the bottom plate is definitely doing something.. Im interested to see how it turns out on other flight controllers that don't use the bosch gyro
Awesome. Been wanting to try 6S. I normally run some 2450kv motors. What would that turn out to be in the OSD? I also run the DYS f4 FC along with Kiss 32amp Escs. Thanks 👊
yep those kvs are spot on I have my 2450 TOAs set to like 74%.. the BEST 6s is the thunderpower adrenaline but I run the ovonic 1000kv their like half the price and 90% as good
Dont wait a few months for beta flight 4.2, feature that keeps motor rpm same regardless of pack sag, n stay 4s, n don't stress ur shit w 6s voltage. ;)
they feel pretty similar to me I have an A/B test video coming soon. theres a few other minor differences as well I think if any real difference could be in durability over time.
@@MaxBeamer you should get some ceramic abec 7 bearings and swap them out. See if that makes a difference. I really want a set of 2306 for 5" and 2507 for 6", but I'm super poor atm....
Lol I went threw the same issues with the escs I use the holybros but blow those too sometimes. I honestly abuse the shit out of my stuff with high kv or big props what ever is the most fun lol
Bro, Aikon 32pin V2 with Brain Radix LI is a match made in HEAVEN. I have this combo in both my race and freestyle rigs. That Bosch gyro is FIRE. I've been using a throttle limiter in my OpenTX transmitter, is this the same as motor output limiter in BF? I would imagine not.
love the stack too its my go to for everything.. Motor limiting in BF is different it doesn't limit throttle instead limits voltage to motors effectively changing the KV to whatever you want!
@@MaxBeamer This is amazing. You've just saved me a whole lot of money. I run 2700 KV on 4s so I'm gonna try this today and limit it down to like 1950KV for 6s. I really appreciate your insight here man.
I'm new to this so I already have a 6s quad so do I just need to change out the motors to 4a rated. Cus I saw a comment earlier below saying that if the FC and esc can handle 6s
if you already have a 6s quad you don't really need to do anything but if you want to use 4s motors with the limiting to be able to adjust KV you absolutely can.
@@sosoapy8154 I could be wrong but I think the only way to get more flight time was to lower the throttle percentage, it’s just that you have a much more powerful setup so you don’t notice the dip in performance. I’m not super experienced in this hobby but I think that’s right 😄
the new esc are so great not having to worry about things popping especially if your still running 4s on a 6s esc is bulletproof for yu I have em and still run 4s haven't popped one in like 5 months
Been running BlackBird FPV 2725kv on 6S with FlightOne for a few weeks set to 66% was the closest to it's real RPM on 4S, It should be around 1817kv according to my calculations. Might go up to 67% or 68% should set them at 1850kv, I strongly believe that 1850kv is the sweet spot for 6S. It's a cool function that changes everything love it.
Good vid buddy! I'd rather run high kv motors than have low kv and not be able to increase power. I've been doing the same ever since motor output limit was added to Emuflight. Just make sure ESCs are rated for 6s... For that matter anything that's connected to vbat!
Goddamn dude you’re a great pilot. I keep telling people they are my inspiration but the FPV community is full of such friendly guys&gals it’s unreal. Plus there are just so many intelligent people. I just got my tinyhawk 2 a few days ago, I’m now totally obsessed with FPV. It’s legit changing my life for the better, pulled me right out of one of the most depressive episodes I’ve ever faced. 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻 Keep being awesome bro.
dude thanks so much I hear you! Its done a lot for me as well. I used to stay away from RC shops in my town because some of the people were so unfriendly lol but FPV pilots are a whole other thing.. its an awesome community!
Congrats n welcome bro, 1 big advice don't spend bunch on analog, invest in DJI FPV from da jump, it's rediculous, check any of my vids, all just goggle dvr superviewed, lol so easy
Flo-Rida FPV I wish I would have but got attitude v5 goggles and a taranis radio, and tinyhawk. Maybe once I build a 5in!
@@CaseyGray58 yup, just don't invest in analog bro
Max Beamer alright so I’m ready to build my first 6s 5in quad. I fully plan on racing, I love racing. I logged about 100 hours into liftoff since I got it Sunday lol. I love my tinyhawk 2 but it’s not enough. I want to be able to surf mountains and have range, and max speed. In liftoff I absolutely do best with the talon svx 220, ak mistral and the armattan mongoose I think. Should I try to build a machine that does both good, or if I know I’m gonna be in this for the long haul should I just build a 5in for race and a 5in for freestyle?
Max you just made my life easier, I've been trying to figure out the mathematics for ever.. killer killer killer . thanks Bud..
you got it man what im here for!
Sweet. I didn’t realize you can do this in the osd.
same
As long as you have smart audo set up you can change everything on the osd thrugh the goggles
I have data showing, with nylon standoffs, you want the FC to be as close to the frame bottom as possible.
interesting! for once I wasn't totally off the mark haha
Would either of you recommend mounting the FC below the 4-in-1 ESC?
Dope video I actually learned something today
Dude this stuff is gold. Love that people are figuring out new stuff to try and sharing it. Thanks!
So much knowledge in this video! Learned a TON, Bardw.... ehm, Beamer!🙌
Nice video. I have been flying with my fc in the rear since about the same time Kabab started doing it and I have even designed and flown a quad with a vertically orientated fc and esc - worked fine. But the simple answer to all the "fc in the center of the kwad" people is that the gyro doesn't give a shit where it is, it simply needs to know where it is moving relative to its set state. Also - regarding you theory, your explanation is on the right track. The fc firmware no-a-days is so good that we actually should be using stiffer mounting solutions. You have increased the stiffness in your mounting solution which increases the frequencies that the gyro sees and in turn makes it easier to filter out while at the same time using less filtering to do the job - i.e. making it fly so much better and easier to tune for performance.
You might want to ask Kabab FPV about that rear FC mounting anomaly, as that's pretty the way he's been building his quads for years.
Is it rigid mounted, rock solid? Must be if the stand-offs are pressed into the mounting holes.
I was just gonna suggest you ask him 😂
I think most the problems is caused by the arms are like tuning forks that send all the bad down right into stacks by you having it away it helps I have a scimitar lrx that has the stack mounted from top and a bracket on the bottom so no contacted with arms . I think like in archery the limb pockets where the reason we saw better fast bows was do to learning how to filter vibrations out from the violent reaction when a arrow and string get ripped forward at 300fps . Like we have with are arms it's like a bow I think if we did something to how the arms are attached and othe stuff we would see less filtering. That my theory on it
Really useful information. I've been flying for nearly 4 years and didn't know this. I've got a 6S setup (1950Kv TOA Turbines) and a older 4S setup using 2300Kv Brotherhobby motors which are still getting manufactured and I love them, they're super reliable, so I'll definitely be trying out some 6S on them too using this information.
Hey bud I've been doing this for a long time on my own just learning and testing a lot of set ups lately I've been using super low kv but before I started with high kv 2408 2500kv motors on 7inch 6inch and 5inch and the only problems I've had is the voltage spikes you get during regenerative braking seem to be much more severe on the higher kv. I've found on the lower kv I just have a much higher reliability rate. Do you not see the samething? I haven't tested it enough to say this is conclusive or anything.
not really seen that but if you have a problem with braking just turn it off in blheli suite. You could also add a capacitor to deal with voltage spikes, I have a small 550uf on every build altho I recommend a bit bigger around 550-1000uf
@@MaxBeamer what voltage are you caps? Also I was under the impression the regenerative braking is needed to stop the props and perform quick manuevers and that the option to shut it off on blheli suite is only there because you don't want braking in air planes but from what I hear you really need it in quads. I have found adding caps on each esc and using individual escs helped me with this issue tons also fettec voltage spike absorbers are working amazingly well. Prior to using those two methods I was using 4in1 escs and one big 35v cap but those would always pop when I would put 6s on which that seems to stop happening when I made the switch to 50v so maybe the spikes were causing the caps to die and then cause damage to the esc since there's no more cap protection. Hard for me to explain this because I am still learning how to even understand how all this works but so far I think I got the problem solved by using individual escs and the spike abosrber and caps on each esc when I want to use 6s and high kv I use this method otherwise on 4s I don't have problems and don't have to do all the extra stuff it's only when I try to run 6s on some high kv motors like 2500kv or higher which isn't recommended but it's oh so fun when u can get a reliable set up running like that
Dude this is insane. FC in the back, wow i must do it. Thanks
Go for it!
Definitely going to try on my first build..been looking for the set up for it..
awesome dude! first build warning: you don't want to set the motor output to anything outrageous and smoke the ESC lol
Thanks definitely won't..being new I have alot to Learn...lol
holy sh*t , bardwell need to learn something today from you
Always appreciate the info bro! Gonna be trying this soon!
Great info thank you! I think I’m officially switching to 6s. The only thing I’m sticking with 30 x 30 esc’s. I have put hundreds of packs killing the throttle on 2408 and even 2806.5 motors and never blew an esc.
for sure man you got it! welcome to the powaaa squad haha
Is that the same as going to BF configurator and setting the throttle limit ? Never did this. Just want to check I’m getting it right. Thanks man 👊
no the throttle limit will basically chop the top off your throttle rc output the motor output limiter will actually limit the power going to your motors from the esc and it will do so in an evenly without just chopping off the top end rather giving you an average decrease in apparent voltage as if you were running a lower cell pack.
FPV QUARTERS I recommend doing it from the goggles like I show somewhere in the middle of this vid or you can do a cli command of Set motor_output_limit = x ... where x is the percent power you want
Really interesting approach and shinny sokutions. You make my day by so easy way... 😱
Thank you for good information. 👍👍
Do you use same pids in 4s and 6s?
I don't think so but they aren't that different at all, maybe the p gains are a bit lower on 6s with a bit higher I gains. gonna retune soon anyway on 4.2 ill make a video
@@MaxBeamer thank you for reply 😆😆
I wish to watch your new vid soon
What is your current sensor scale for AK32 ?
The esc makes electronic noise ?
Great video, I have had good experience with HW 4n1 but i don't like how they stick out. so i like how you place yours.
Awesome ! Been wanting to fly 6s ,still running 4s . Waiting on batteries to die to switch . Now I can 🤙🏻🙏
yehhh get on it bro!
Or save $ wait a few months for beta flight 4.2, feature that keeps motor rpm same regardless of pack sag, n stay 4s, n don't stress ur shit w 6s voltage...YW ;)
Flo-Rida FPV and 4s batteries are cheaper 🤙🏻
@@staticfpv881 yeah buddy and lighter and blow less stuff up
For people wanting to try this, Two things: even though this digitally changes the kv of your motor, it will not physically change any differences higher kv motor windings on your current motors give you. Not sure what those differences are, but the windings that give a motor it’s kv will persist through this. Also, on higher voltage you may need to change your pids to get it to work right, but in the video this wasn’t needed.
Joshua Bardwell didn't do a very good job of explaining motor output limiting, at the time of his vid it had all sorts of bugs but I'm sure he'll revisit it at some point. as far as the PIDs I changed them slightly but not by 20% and not all of them evenly by any means.
Max Beamer ill edit my comment then,he’s great but I won’t take his word on everything lol. Also since you’re here I was wondering, I just watched your video on the 5 inch carbon fiber azure biblade props and they sound absolutely amazing in the GoPro footage, do they sound that way in person? I love the deep hum sound they give off but the GoPro could be amplifying it. Thanks!
Motor output limit is not the same than throttle output limit?
Nice I didn’t think of doing at all👍
As always, great videos. I knew you could limit your throttle, but had no idea it was so versatile. This is great info, thanks again!!
yeh man it was a game changer for me!
Should i limiting the throttle in bf after i change the motor limit?when im using 6s bateries on 4s motors.
Nope keep throttle the same.
🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️smart man. 👌🏻
So question tho, do u play with the Kv of the higher end motors or the lower kv motors?
And have u tested this with 4s battery just to find the best motor/battery efficiency
not sure I understand the question but ill give it a shot. basically I get motors with higher kv that way I can limit them to whatever I want on whatever size lipo.. Since the limiting only works in one direction (cant raise the motor kv only lower it) as far as efficiency, limiting down to a certain kv is a little less efficient than actually using a lower kv motor but not by much at all to where id consider not doing it. and I haven't officially tested anything this is just from my experience flying like this over the last 6 months or so.
Max Beamer You answered my question to the T. 👌🏻
I appreciate the knowledge bro. Keep the good content coming
Can you tell me max I just bought Xing 1700kv for 6s but iv only one pack but Iv tons of 4s iv two drones one 6s and 4s ...could I use the 4s drone and just move the motor output down for 6s and back to 100 for 4s
Yep u sure can.
Thanks man I wish I knew this a week ago lol
Do you have same benefits on flight time as they say about a 6s build on 1750kv for example? Running 6s on 2500kv.. and lowering this trottle percentage?
not lowering throttle percentage but motor output limiting yeh I get 4 min+ flight times and no sag. huge difference from 4s
@@MaxBeamer that's great man.. I have to sell some stuff...
thanks, Max
i have hobbywing 20x20 40a on my racing quad, no problems..
Bro! I'm on my 5th Hobbywing in a year!! I just switched to the f7 20x20. If this doesn't last I'm done. Everyone says they're so good. I'm burning them out from medium to small crashes in grass. Good to know it's not just me.
theyre so trash
Do you like those quad blades over the HQ 4.8x3.4x4?
yes 100% these are more responsive and feel great probably bc theyre a bit lighter.
So what esc settings are you using for that? I have a Hobbywing 60a, Xing 2207 2450kv motors and Revolt osd and going to try a 70% limit on it. What fo you recommend for esc settings? 48khz, demag low, timing auto?
what firmware version? if its betaflight 4.1 with rpm filters I use 24khz everything else as you wrote.
@@MaxBeamer i use FalcoX
Does doing this make it faster than 6s motors?
6s motors are just a range of kv between like 1600-1950.. by doing this you can have any kv you want and adjust until its perfect for your setup or change kv whenever you need to anytime from the goggles
Max Beamer ok I’m new and just bought parts, so he was like what, if 4s motors r cheaper but I can make the faster then y waste money on 6s motors lol thx for clarifying
thank you very much for this useful sharing, Max! excellent! 🔥🔥🙏❤️🥃🥃
do you lose any toque when you go 1850 kv vs 2500 kv limited to 1850 kv ?
great question, im not 100% sure i'd have to do some tests but it feels really similar I can say that much.
someone at a group told me that my flight controller being in the back of the frame is a bad thing cause its like "off axis" and not centered. but i thought about it, and i believe it is the exact same as if it were in the center. change my mind
yeh its exactly the same.
Hi mate would you recommend the brain over the flightone revolt for cinematic fpv?
That's a tough one, they are so different and so much of the cinematic stuff comes from the pilot and rates. They do fly pretty differently tho so for versatility id go brain but for out the box cinematic only id probably go flightone.
@@MaxBeamer cheers mate went with the millivolt, I'm pretty much trying to copy your build just stuck on witch motor will be best without breaking the bank, iv been looking at the Gts v2 2207 2500kv?
@@MaxBeamer Also whether you put a random F4 fc vs BrainLi you still are going to run betaflight so no much difference right? Imo as ive tested cinewhoop beatflight vs FL1 its a compromise flighttime vs better performance and stability control.
Gio Fpv the brain fc uses a different gyro with better internal filtering before betaflight gets to the signal. They also run their own version of BF fw bc of the Bosch gyro’s locked 3.2khz sample rate
@@MaxBeamer good to know, im not that expert about it but now i definitely wont get rid of that spare brainli ive got in my drawer. Cheers man. what about the ESC question i am hoping to get some info?
Doesn't this increase the vibrations on the quad?
If YES...
how do you fix that?
doesn't what increase vibrations?
@@MaxBeamer limiting the KV rating on the motor to run 6s lipo
not at all.
Nice video. I'm 3 days into Velocidrone and while I can fly it's not at all as smooth as what you're doing here. That said, are you able to fly as smoothly on the SIM's? It would be helpful to understand since if the SIM doesn't fly this smooth I'm not waiting forever to fly close to the ground and other objects in real life.
I fly pretty similar in the sim, the main thing for flying smooth is rates, make them a bit slower or add expo and then try and use as little input as possible, just guide the quad and let it do its own thing.. It sounds counter intuitive but you'll get the hang of it with some practice.
Are you running 48 kHz or different motor timing ? Or could be filters ?
I actually went back to 24k recently I had some odd issues on 48 all esc settings are stock I think it’s the dynamic filters but not 100%
@@MaxBeamer What kind of issues did you have? I had one quad have massive bobbles on 48khz. At 24khz pretty much gone. Also are your ESC recommendations still the same? You still building your quads with FC at the back?
Where are you getting these Hot dirty Bass tracks?
I make most of em lol
What about flying 2700kv motors with a 5S lipo? My esc only support up to 5S
That works too just set output limit around 81% that will get you a good kv (around 2200kv) for 5s
@@MaxBeamer thanks man going to try it😉
I wouldnt recommend doing this with a 4s flight controller. You may get problems. But good info on motor percentages to drop kv.
Well doing this on 4s esc or fc will be instant 🔥 haha don’t do it unless rated for 6s voltage should have mentioned that
Max Beamer Definitely make sure to check battery rating. Cooking voltage regulators are not fun. Some flight controllers you can get away without having the regulator, but means you will need a battery to connect to your pc in some cases. Been there done that. Betaflight f4 flight controllers
02:10 I dont need to change my 4 s rated escs?
yes, you do
Very good video i use 4s motors on 6s batteries cause i have 4 & 6s batteries
So if I bought the 6s 55 amp aikon and f7 flight controller I should be good..I have the lal 5.1 with 2507 motor and flight controller have been popping like they are free.
You should be good but that's some big ass motors for 5 inch, any mishaps can get you in some trouble lol
@@MaxBeamer yes I agree
Hey, cool video! Could you test the t motor pacers?
they were supposed to send me some but the person I talk to is odd, I have some tmotor velox coming for a test ill do the pacers next (probably)
Hey Max, I'd really like to try motor output limiting but isn't there still a risk that the voltage can blow the motors?
nope. not if you scale it back to a proper voltage for the motor kv
Excellent video
Great stuff dude....So are there any changes in Amp draw? how about turtle mode? or desync?
I haven't done an A B test but that's a good question about the amp draw.. it should be lower since you'd still be using a higher voltage source and its not getting limited until it leaves the ESC but ill have to check to be sure. zero desync, no changes in turtle that im aware of
Nice Vid. Hey I know this sounds dumb but can I still get a 4s motor with the Geprc Stable Pro Mini Stack in 2020 or should i already get the 6s motors?
you can use that stack with 4 or 6s doesn't matter, 6 is gonna fly better but its a personal choice.
@@MaxBeamer Sry I was dumb at writing, i am about to build my first kwad and i mean if i should build it with a 4s motor or a 6s motor to fly it with a 6s battery
Max that is super useful to know about the motors on 6s
Hey buddy im so undecided to get either the aikon or the hobbywing as im running 2700kv on 4s. rotorx would be more appropriate as its 60A burst but your opinion its the first in incur and i am a bit sceptic. just wondering why and what exactly made you move over ?
I’d go with the aikon all day. they have the best quality control imo I’ve had hobbywing 60a burn up for no reason and come defective out the box before, they replaced the defective ones but even that process was a huge pain where I had to fill out forms and ship the esc back. I stand by the aikons.
@@MaxBeamer Understand, thanks for the clarification. Ive heard about the Hobbyw60A, however the micro20x20 40A then looks like it didnt come out with any sort of issues. looks like solid?
This is awesome! Great info!
I just had the holybro kakute f7 flight controller die one pack the osd quit and my receiver quit junk
Just shared this with the homies. Good discussion to have on the FC in the back. I like the idea and I may have to try it myself.
for sure man, having it up against the bottom plate is definitely doing something.. Im interested to see how it turns out on other flight controllers that don't use the bosch gyro
Max Beamer good point. Different gyros could react differently to being in the back
Omg i nver even thought of that thanks.
you got it!
Thanks
Awesome. Been wanting to try 6S. I normally run some 2450kv motors. What would that turn out to be in the OSD? I also run the DYS f4 FC along with Kiss 32amp Escs. Thanks 👊
Looks like I'm getting the following:
1650 ÷ 2450 = 67%
1750 ÷ 2450 = 71%
1850 ÷ 2450 = 75%
What's the best 6S out there? I normally run the CNHL 4s 1300's.
yep those kvs are spot on I have my 2450 TOAs set to like 74%.. the BEST 6s is the thunderpower adrenaline but I run the ovonic 1000kv their like half the price and 90% as good
Dont wait a few months for beta flight 4.2, feature that keeps motor rpm same regardless of pack sag, n stay 4s, n don't stress ur shit w 6s voltage. ;)
Less electrical noise coming from the esc to the fc maybe causing the filters to work better.
I do this all the time runnin cheap 5S batts.
Did you try both tao series motors? Is there a difference? It looks like it's just abec 7 vs nsk bearings.
they feel pretty similar to me I have an A/B test video coming soon. theres a few other minor differences as well I think if any real difference could be in durability over time.
@@MaxBeamer you should get some ceramic abec 7 bearings and swap them out. See if that makes a difference. I really want a set of 2306 for 5" and 2507 for 6", but I'm super poor atm....
Lol I went threw the same issues with the escs I use the holybros but blow those too sometimes. I honestly abuse the shit out of my stuff with high kv or big props what ever is the most fun lol
Max great vid. What do you recommend for 5S on example 2306 2450kv
for 5s id recommend 2200kv so that's about 90% limiting on 2450
Max Beamer thnx man. Great honest vids👍
Bro, Aikon 32pin V2 with Brain Radix LI is a match made in HEAVEN. I have this combo in both my race and freestyle rigs. That Bosch gyro is FIRE. I've been using a throttle limiter in my OpenTX transmitter, is this the same as motor output limiter in BF? I would imagine not.
love the stack too its my go to for everything.. Motor limiting in BF is different it doesn't limit throttle instead limits voltage to motors effectively changing the KV to whatever you want!
@@MaxBeamer This is amazing. You've just saved me a whole lot of money. I run 2700 KV on 4s so I'm gonna try this today and limit it down to like 1950KV for 6s. I really appreciate your insight here man.
I'm new to this so I already have a 6s quad so do I just need to change out the motors to 4a rated. Cus I saw a comment earlier below saying that if the FC and esc can handle 6s
if you already have a 6s quad you don't really need to do anything but if you want to use 4s motors with the limiting to be able to adjust KV you absolutely can.
@@MaxBeamer okay awesome do you think you can get more fly time with this? And thanks for the reply
@@sosoapy8154 I could be wrong but I think the only way to get more flight time was to lower the throttle percentage, it’s just that you have a much more powerful setup so you don’t notice the dip in performance. I’m not super experienced in this hobby but I think that’s right 😄
I love aikon escs. I fly an AK32 for two years and an RD32 for half a year now on my two racers.
Heck yeh man they’re the greatest fr
This is all assuming your FC and ESC's can handle 6S voltage. I still have a lot of gear that maxes out at 4S or 5S.
this is true! probably should have mentioned that..
the new esc are so great not having to worry about things popping especially if your still running 4s on a 6s esc is bulletproof for yu I have em and still run 4s haven't popped one in like 5 months
Game changer is beta flight 4.2 that keeps rpm same regardless of pack voltage.... so 0 sag felt on 4s....BOOM
Been running BlackBird FPV 2725kv on 6S with FlightOne for a few weeks set to 66% was the closest to it's real RPM on 4S, It should be around 1817kv according to my calculations. Might go up to 67% or 68% should set them at 1850kv, I strongly believe that 1850kv is the sweet spot for 6S. It's a cool function that changes everything love it.
1850 is about where im at too, that's a mean setup you've got I flew the exact same thing for a min and loved it
Like your channel bro. Nothing fancy and your strait up. Good stuff I'll be continuing to check in and watch brother.
Thanks man that’s what’s up!
Wow. Thanks for sharing brah
Some great info there, thanks for sharing. I'll patreon you 🍻
Legend!
Why is it easier to smoke a motor?
more kv = more amps = boom
I really like the Aikon ESC's. Just found your channel. Subscribed.
not if my FC is only rated for 4s?
Well yeh haha don’t blow anything up.
Good vid buddy! I'd rather run high kv motors than have low kv and not be able to increase power. I've been doing the same ever since motor output limit was added to Emuflight. Just make sure ESCs are rated for 6s... For that matter anything that's connected to vbat!
I'd like to see you do a full rip on 2400kv with the 6s.
stay tuned!
followed from insta, watched, liked,subbed, good stuff bro🤙
hell yeh thx dude
I SEE A WAVE COMMING BRO, nice
👌 thank you
Thanks for the info!!! Interesting!
i already run 1950kv 6s but had no idea i could do this haha 😅 cheers
Thanks for sharing this :-) Have to try it ;-)
Damn I love those 4plays 🔥🔥🔥🙌🏽🙌🏽🙌🏽
yehh they not playinn
this is great! I wonder if you can do this on whoops?
good question! sounds like a video idea..
awesome!!!
This is legit 6s otw 👍 subbed
My setup already for 6s lipo, but ironicaly i never buy 6s lipos :/
haha you're missing out!
can't you smoke esc?
yes indeed you can always smoke an esc so don't go full throttle at 2750kv on 6s (even tho I have very briefly and things were fine)
@@MaxBeamer hmm, Typhoon32 4in1 ESC 4x35A looks supporting only 3s-4s - don't want to risk it :D
yeh the v1 is 4s max so if you have that don't even try. v2 is good to go tho
wow man, those 4 blade have a some grip.
they are grippy af!
So cool
Game changer! Haha but seriously, thanks man!
Game changer is beta flight 4.2 that keeps rpm same so 0 sag felt on 4s....BOOM
@@flo-ridafpv5713🤔
Max Beamer yeaaa buddy soo 💵
You said "1850kv". Then you said if you put "Session in there, use 1750kv". I'd like to know why. Thank you.
I like to keep the feel as similar as possible when dropping weight so generally I’ll go down about 1000kv between hero and session setups
@@MaxBeamer Got it. Thanks!
Yep use this erryday. 😎🖖 hope things are good on your end
Peace.
Cheers mate gonna be so much cheaper to build my quad now as 4s motors are so much cheaper than 6s and more readily available