Awesome content! just had a question tho, so If I wanted to use this charger to charge a flat battery do I do the same kind of modification as you did with the older version of this? Perhaps if it doesn't take too much time you could make another great toturial on how to modify this one, would be appreciated a lot!
Oh dear- At your own risk, Safety note; Power-down and unplug and then short the mains capacitor before touching the board. The best bet is to replace the fuse, reservoir capacitor, FET, management chip, and PTC inrush limiter, Or step by step below: 1. Before you test, connect the main supply with a 100W incandescent light bulb is series with the mains supply. 2. Power up. If you have a short circuit or overload the light bulb will light up instead of components exploding. 3. If the light bulb does not light then Check you have the high voltage DC rectified mains across the reservoir capacitor. 4. If no rectified mains across the high voltage capacitor then check the main fuse component and PTC inrush limiter resistor. (replace if necessary) 5. Check the High voltage reservoir capacitor isn't shorted, 6. If you have no mains voltage and the bulb is alight then remove the FET and the management IC. 7. power up - if you get high voltage then replace the FET and the Management IC. 8. Is there any Bootstrap DC supply across the Zener diode ? The best bet is to check all low value resistors
On mine the resistors R13 and R14 are completly burned, do you know their value ? And what others components i may need to change knowwing those resistors have burned ?
Hi from your excellent diagnostic discription,it would apper on my item l have no AC bootstrap supply. I say this due to your video reference to constant pulsing of the lcd display.The green power light is lit the display pulses but no display info. How can l check this AC bootstrap components?
Hi thank you for your most kind responce to my question.I will investigate your probable culprit surgestion ref Zenner diode.You are going on my subscrittions list thank you@@razenby
Hi! Awesome explanation on the internal workings of that charger. I have the exat same model, exact same issue but my diode reads up of 700 on diode mode. The one right under the micro controller chip (marked D0 on the board) reads 55 tho so it might be the issue. My question is how do you know what diode to use to replace it. I can easilly harvest smd diodes from old psus that look close enough but is there a way to know exatcly? Love your work. Love how easy you make it look like. Just subscribed to your channel.
A diode should read between 550 and 700 mV forward drop on diode continuity mode when the black meter lead is on the band end of the diode (red is on the other end). If you see 250mV to 400 mV it could be a schottky diode as they have a lower forward drop. If you reverse the probes then you should see a much higher or out of range on the meter indicating that the diode is not conducting which is correct. Usually when diodes fail they fuse inside and go short or near short circuit. Zeners are just a low breakdown voltage silicone diode. Therefore they will read about 600 to 700 mV when the black lead is on the band end of the diode. Usually when Zeners fail they usually go short or very near short-circuit.
@@razenby Thanks for the explanation. I even took notes from it. I removed the diode in question but the reading between pads is still 55. So i guess i have a bad cap or short to ground somewhere. Ill probe everything on the pcb looking for it next. Thank you so much. Cant wait for your next videos.
I've got one of these Ultimate Speed chargers from 2009, the older model doesn't have the lcd display, just a few little leds and the mode button. It has always been a bit temperamental of whether or not it would go through the modes and start charging the battery. Seems to have stopped working completely now though, and just sits there with the power light on, not charging, tried it on a few different 12v batteries.
I've used mine loads of times it's the red version but gone to charge my bike battery today & it was ok charging it but when I come back to it its not lighting up now & I've changed the fuse do you no what could of gone on it mate? ? ? CIRCUIT BOARD LOOKS SAME AS YOURS
it'll likely be the mains side switch mode power supply circuit blown. There is no safety margin built into the ratings so a gnat farting on the power line is enough to tip her over the edge. Not designed for 245 volts Plus transients....
My ULGD 3.8 can no longer be switched by means of the mode button. The power LED lights up. If I press Mode, the motorcycle symbol lights up briefly. That's all that happens. What could that be? the button for the mode button I have already replaced.
Magic Smoke Hi :) In my LIDL ULTIMATE SPEED the track on the lower left, next to the first rectifier diode, was fused. And two of the 4 rectifier diodes were also fused. I put them new and I repaired the track ... however it still does not turn on. I checked the diode that you repair in the video, however in my case the reading is correct. What do you think I should check first ?. Also check the mosfet transistor MDF11N60 and although it shoots well. I do not know if it is normal for the value to change so little, from 0.468 to 0.443. In short sure it is not.
I have had a similar problem with an ozonator. And it was by connecting the plug directly from the cable without using a switch. In the instructions of this device it clearly says that first connect the terminals + and - to the battery and then plug the cord 220v into the socket. Something told me not to do it that way ... and as I imagined, another device was broken for do it like this. Therefore I thought the repair could be similar ... rectifier diodes in short and transistor in short also. However this circuit is more complex and it seems something else was damaged .... that or the transitor really is wrong and I must change it.
I had the same issue (burned track and 2 burned diodes. Did you check the Fuse ( brown small device (looks like a capacitor) right next wheer the mains are soldered to the board).After replacing this, everything worked fine. Hope this helps!
It would be interesting to take a look see. Repair is no charge if I get an interesting video out of it. Email me at ark.mail@gmx.com and I'll send you the address. Let the clicks pay....
I have one Ultimate speed, it turns on, displays works, but thats it, i can't go into menu true the button, only 12.0 v shows on display, different batteries i tried. It's in the charger. Hope you have a solution for me ?
@@razenby I connect the charger into 220V, it turns on, display works. On display it show me 12.7V and "empty" battery symbol. When i push the mode button, very short it shows the motorcycle symbol , i hear a click of relais inside the charger and then display is going back to show me the same as startup: 12.7V and emty battery symbol . I can't swit switch into other mode, like car or . Mode function no furting working . It's not the fault of the battery that i want to charge/refresh, another same charger works with this battery. I tried with different 12v car battery's . I think the charger can't make a good test from value's of battery to begin the proces. Hope you can help met with this problem.
![Redresor auto din LIDL Ultimate Speed - inteligent [TEST]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/73lTdAe12LM/mqdefault.jpg)
I feel like I - AM - AN - ELECTRICIAN now, even though I won't use ever in my life. BEAUTIFULLY, LOGICALLY and CALMLY explained √√ GREAT one √√
Thanks for watching.
Awesome content! just had a question tho, so If I wanted to use this charger to charge a flat battery do I do the same kind of modification as you did with the older version of this? Perhaps if it doesn't take too much time you could make another great toturial on how to modify this one, would be appreciated a lot!
That should be possible..
@@razenby Yes please !
An even easier repair - Pull back the plastic cover over the press button and apply a squirt of WD40. - Hey presto - working again!
i know it is kind of off topic but do anybody know of a good website to stream newly released movies online?
@Reid Dorian meh I'd suggest Flixportal. just search on google for it :P -krew
Oh dear- At your own risk, Safety note; Power-down and unplug and then short the mains capacitor before touching the board. The best bet is to replace the fuse, reservoir capacitor, FET, management chip, and PTC inrush limiter, Or step by step below:
1. Before you test, connect the main supply with a 100W incandescent light bulb is series with the mains supply.
2. Power up. If you have a short circuit or overload the light bulb will light up instead of components exploding.
3. If the light bulb does not light then Check you have the high voltage DC rectified mains across the reservoir capacitor.
4. If no rectified mains across the high voltage capacitor then check the main fuse component and PTC inrush limiter resistor. (replace if necessary)
5. Check the High voltage reservoir capacitor isn't shorted,
6. If you have no mains voltage and the bulb is alight then remove the FET and the management IC.
7. power up - if you get high voltage then replace the FET and the Management IC.
8. Is there any Bootstrap DC supply across the Zener diode ? The best bet is to check all low value resistors
On mine the resistors R13 and R14 are completly burned, do you know their value ? And what others components i may need to change knowwing those resistors have burned ?
Hi from your excellent diagnostic discription,it would apper on my item l have no AC bootstrap supply.
I say this due to your video reference to constant pulsing of the lcd display.The green power light is lit the display pulses but no display info.
How can l check this AC bootstrap components?
With a multi-meter. The most common culprit is the Zener diode in the video.
Hi thank you for your most kind responce to my question.I will investigate your probable culprit surgestion ref Zenner diode.You are going on my subscrittions list thank you@@razenby
Hi! Awesome explanation on the internal workings of that charger.
I have the exat same model, exact same issue but my diode reads up of 700 on diode mode. The one right under the micro controller chip (marked D0 on the board) reads 55 tho so it might be the issue. My question is how do you know what diode to use to replace it. I can easilly harvest smd diodes from old psus that look close enough but is there a way to know exatcly?
Love your work. Love how easy you make it look like. Just subscribed to your channel.
A diode should read between 550 and 700 mV forward drop on diode continuity mode when the black meter lead is on the band end of the diode (red is on the other end). If you see 250mV to 400 mV it could be a schottky diode as they have a lower forward drop. If you reverse the probes then you should see a much higher or out of range on the meter indicating that the diode is not conducting which is correct. Usually when diodes fail they fuse inside and go short or near short circuit. Zeners are just a low breakdown voltage silicone diode. Therefore they will read about 600 to 700 mV when the black lead is on the band end of the diode. Usually when Zeners fail they usually go short or very near short-circuit.
@@razenby Thanks for the explanation. I even took notes from it. I removed the diode in question but the reading between pads is still 55. So i guess i have a bad cap or short to ground somewhere. Ill probe everything on the pcb looking for it next. Thank you so much. Cant wait for your next videos.
On mine the resistors R13 and R14 are completly burned, do you know their value ? They've probably burned due to a faillure of the 0B2276CP
Sorry, I do not. The resistors were burn out by a failed semiconductor.
I've got one of these Ultimate Speed chargers from 2009, the older model doesn't have the lcd display, just a few little leds and the mode button. It has always been a bit temperamental of whether or not it would go through the modes and start charging the battery. Seems to have stopped working completely now though, and just sits there with the power light on, not charging, tried it on a few different 12v batteries.
Let me have a look. It would make a good video. These things are unreliable.
On this item the switch is the problem. Here you have to change the switch, videos also available!
I've used mine loads of times it's the red version but gone to charge my bike battery today & it was ok charging it but when I come back to it its not lighting up now & I've changed the fuse do you no what could of gone on it mate? ? ? CIRCUIT BOARD LOOKS SAME AS YOURS
it'll likely be the mains side switch mode power supply circuit blown. There is no safety margin built into the ratings so a gnat farting on the power line is enough to tip her over the edge. Not designed for 245 volts Plus transients....
My ULGD 3.8 can no longer be switched by means of the mode button. The power LED lights up. If I press Mode, the motorcycle symbol lights up briefly. That's all that happens. What could that be? the button for the mode button I have already replaced.
What battery is connected? If the terminal voltage is below about 10.5 volts DC it will refuse to charge. It is a flaw in the design.
Magic Smoke Hi :) In my LIDL ULTIMATE SPEED the track on the lower left, next to the first rectifier diode, was fused. And two of the 4 rectifier diodes were also fused. I put them new and I repaired the track ... however it still does not turn on. I checked the diode that you repair in the video, however in my case the reading is correct. What do you think I should check first ?. Also check the mosfet transistor MDF11N60 and although it shoots well. I do not know if it is normal for the value to change so little, from 0.468 to 0.443. In short sure it is not.
I have had a similar problem with an ozonator. And it was by connecting the plug directly from the cable without using a switch. In the instructions of this device it clearly says that first connect the terminals + and - to the battery and then plug the cord 220v into the socket. Something told me not to do it that way ... and as I imagined, another device was broken for do it like this. Therefore I thought the repair could be similar ... rectifier diodes in short and transistor in short also. However this circuit is more complex and it seems something else was damaged .... that or the transitor really is wrong and I must change it.
Sorry , I cant really help as I don't have an example here.
I had the same issue (burned track and 2 burned diodes. Did you check the Fuse ( brown small device (looks like a capacitor) right next wheer the mains are soldered to the board).After replacing this, everything worked fine. Hope this helps!
Mine also went dud.
Don't have the tools to repair. So had to buy another one.
Shame.
👍👍👍🤝🤝🤝
Thanks for watching
Can you repair Ctek mxs 5.0 charger I have two totally dead ones
It would be interesting to take a look see. Repair is no charge if I get an interesting video out of it. Email me at ark.mail@gmx.com and I'll send you the address. Let the clicks pay....
Magic Smoke it’s come back undelivered email to that’ email address
Magic Smoke did you get them
@@paulteslafan2992 Yes
Magic Smoke sorted I can’t wait to see your videos
How do you know all this? amazing
30 years of electronics development
I have one Ultimate speed, it turns on, displays works, but thats it, i can't go into menu true the button, only 12.0 v shows on display, different batteries i tried. It's in the charger. Hope you have a solution for me ?
Sorry I cant really diagnose what is wrong from the description.
@@razenby I connect the charger into 220V, it turns on, display works. On display it show me 12.7V and "empty" battery symbol. When i push the mode button, very short it shows the motorcycle symbol , i hear a click of relais inside the charger and then display is going back to show me the same as startup: 12.7V and emty battery symbol . I can't swit switch into other mode, like car or . Mode function no furting working . It's not the fault of the battery that i want to charge/refresh, another same charger works with this battery. I tried with different 12v car battery's . I think the charger can't make a good test from value's of battery to begin the proces. Hope you can help met with this problem.
@@williedeijkers6263 you have to change the switch on this item. videos also on youtube
@@johannweinberger4007 thans for your replay i will go to test this switch in my charger,
Hello i dismantled the charger en did check sw1 switch , this is not broken this works oke. ?
hello good afternoon my own is not displaying anything again
Open her up and fix her,,,