On that petcock, from sitting on the bike, pushed towards the front wheel is closed, and middle is on, and all the way towards the back wheel is reserve. Next thing is you never needed to remove your tank. A mikuni hsr 42 or 45 or 48 will mount up to your bike. And yes there are two vacuum tubes on the back of that mikuni, one is on the top left and ,ust be capped and one is on the bottom right and needs to be capped. Now on these mikuni you have no fuel mixture screw on these, so your adjustment to your air screw is very imprtaont as to how your bike runs. If it hesitates or spits back, you need to turn it on clockwise. Also for your TC 88 with 4 inch stroke, you need a 45 pilot jet and a 180 main jet. Now if it came with a 42 jet and a 160 as most do, that will work for trips shorter than 50 miles or so. But dont forget that air screw located on the left bottom front of that mikuni is literally vital to how your engine will run. Im not talking about the idle screw thats got the cable that drops down to turn up you idle or drop it, but am taking about the screw driver need screw on the left side at the from as for your air screw, and it takes a longer thin screwdriver to easily turn it out or in with your air cleaner on. I have a mikuni HSR video demonsatrtion here on YT at my channel
so update i hade the same ignition but the engine kept having a flat spot the carb is jetted correctly what i did was remove the thunder heart i kept the stock ecm i removed the fuel injection installed a carb kept the engine temp wired to ecm kept the oe coil i am running the bike with the stock ecm it is firing the coil as it should i only removed everything that was fuel injected related on the bike on the ecm i removed the # 6 pin wire to get rid of the check engine light bike runs great better than having the stand alone ignition there is no need for it just remove all the fuel injection crap and install a carb runs flawless
Good job - I know there were others who mentioned the same process on the HD bulletin boards. Keeping the original ECM seems to be the simplest way. Then if the ECM fails you can switch to the ignition.
You are wrong about Pingel valve positions. Forward is OFF, Back is ON, and Middle is Reserve position. This is according to instructions on the package that valve comes in. Also, there is printing ( OFF RES ON) on the valve just above the lever!
3 years later is the thunderheart still the way to go? I bought my s&s super e and I’ve been researching which ignition module and I can’t decide between thunderheart and Daytona twin tec
I did all that on my 2000 RK. thunderheart ignition, cut off cables to the crank sensor and connected it with T.heart and all that, I have restored the CV40 carburator on it...and the damn thing dont start...I have a spark, and also I see that the gas squirts when I move the throttle but engine does not start😢. I have brand new sparkplugs as well...tryed even suplying the fuel from a bottle and still no go...I am fresh outta ideas.
I’m getting ready to install this on my 2010 crossbones. I hope it works. It says it’s not compatible with my model but I don’t understand why it’s not. It has the same crank sensor as other twin cam motors. I also have an S&S carb I’ll be using. Anyone else know if it will work for me?
so i can leave my current ecm conected or do i need to just pull the 15 and 5 amp fuse for the ecm and fuel pump since im not going to use those then just wire up the ignition and install the carb?
Thanks for all this great much needed info…! Same exact bike, and planning on doing this as well,, had enough from this EFI…. Would you or anyone here have a complete parts list of all the parts needed…. Any help or advise would be greatly appreciated….
Thunder heart stand alone ignition .ebay Efi to carb tank conversion kit . Ebay These are the only parts I ordered to do the job cost maybe 500 bucks if fhat
@@reaperronin8898 iv run the bike without the stand alone ignition. Just unplugged the efi crap still got spark to coil an just did the tank conversion ran fine didn't need stand alone ignition. I just added the thunder heart to advance timing with the cams I has
@@everettthoman2097 I actually came to the comment section to ask you this. I was wondering if you had to change the ignition or you could just do the carb conversion without it. I have a 97 road king I need to do this on because the fuel injection is giving issue. I have the carburetor and manifold, if I just switch the tank around to a petcock, is there anything else I would need?
May I have the name of the place we're u got all the parts from.name of parts too please. Thinking of doing this as well.mahalo for inspiration to me. Again Mahalo for ur help!!! Aloha
I have the exact same bike same color. I got the same carb setup and ignition. A thunderheart. I kept having carb sneezes harley had my bike for 2 months and couldn't figure it out I got it back switched out the ignition for a dynatek tc88 and a namz 32435-01 harness. And it ran way better. I rejetted the carb to a 30 pilot , 50 accelerator pump and a 96 needle runs amazing now. I wanted to give you a heads up because it was a nightmare for me and then harley. So if its carb sneezing and doesn't have the power you know it should now you know. Another issue I was having was backfiring on startup with that ignition. That things trash
Also with the new ignition I added a map sensor to the intake manifold. Your bike had one by the ecm called the barometric pressure sensor same think move it to the manifold drill the hole that also makes it run smoother
The carb sneezing as you call it was a lean condition a rich condition it would pop thru the exhaust ! I prefer S & S carbs but a miku I will flo more air but are a bitch to tune pilot jet main jet needle setting & air speed screw !
Yeah I'm going to attempt to help a friend of mine change his 2007 to carburetor only because it has an electrical issue and the two Harley-Davidson local dealers through some parts at it it didn't fix it it's got a code for throttle position sensor and map sensor they replace those items it didn't fix it it just won't take throttle it will just idle I even replaced the entire wiring harness from a used bike the bike had previously been in a fire and ran fine when I rebuild it for 2 years then it started having these problems can't even clear the codes to get to another dealer they said all this is going to be a winter project and charged him $250 for 2 hours worth of work so I've got a CV carburetor and I figure with some standalone ignition module maybe utilizing the crank position sensor to tell the computer what the heck is happening in the motor I should make a running motorcycle out of it again I know carburetors and some electrical but the problem he is with his I'm stumped and heck smarter people than me or stumped either that or they don't have a good technicians at the two dealers LOL
On that petcock, from sitting on the bike, pushed towards the front wheel is closed, and middle is on, and all the way towards the back wheel is reserve. Next thing is you never needed to remove your tank. A mikuni hsr 42 or 45 or 48 will mount up to your bike. And yes there are two vacuum tubes on the back of that mikuni, one is on the top left and ,ust be capped and one is on the bottom right and needs to be capped. Now on these mikuni you have no fuel mixture screw on these, so your adjustment to your air screw is very imprtaont as to how your bike runs. If it hesitates or spits back, you need to turn it on clockwise. Also for your TC 88 with 4 inch stroke, you need a 45 pilot jet and a 180 main jet. Now if it came with a 42 jet and a 160 as most do, that will work for trips shorter than 50 miles or so. But dont forget that air screw located on the left bottom front of that mikuni is literally vital to how your engine will run. Im not talking about the idle screw thats got the cable that drops down to turn up you idle or drop it, but am taking about the screw driver need screw on the left side at the from as for your air screw, and it takes a longer thin screwdriver to easily turn it out or in with your air cleaner on. I have a mikuni HSR video demonsatrtion here on YT at my channel
so update i hade the same ignition but the engine kept having a flat spot the carb is jetted correctly what i did was remove the thunder heart i kept the stock ecm i removed the fuel injection installed a carb kept the engine temp wired to ecm kept the oe coil i am running the bike with the stock ecm it is firing the coil as it should i only removed everything that was fuel injected related on the bike on the ecm i removed the # 6 pin wire to get rid of the check engine light bike runs great better than having the stand alone ignition there is no need for it just remove all the fuel injection crap and install a carb runs flawless
Good job - I know there were others who mentioned the same process on the HD bulletin boards. Keeping the original ECM seems to be the simplest way. Then if the ECM fails you can switch to the ignition.
You are wrong about Pingel valve positions. Forward is OFF, Back is ON, and Middle is Reserve position. This is according to instructions on the package that valve comes in. Also, there is printing ( OFF RES ON) on the valve just above the lever!
Thank you for all the great information
Thanks so much for posting this, I am gonna do a carb conversion on my sportster and it is the same basic process. Nice to reference something.
the game
3 years later is the thunderheart still the way to go? I bought my s&s super e and I’ve been researching which ignition module and I can’t decide between thunderheart and Daytona twin tec
If you use an S&S carb kit the horn bracket works
I'm thinking that vacuum line off the back of the carburetor was probably for the voes switch on the evos ..if your bike was an evolution motor
I did all that on my 2000 RK. thunderheart ignition, cut off cables to the crank sensor and connected it with T.heart and all that, I have restored the CV40 carburator on it...and the damn thing dont start...I have a spark, and also I see that the gas squirts when I move the throttle but engine does not start😢. I have brand new sparkplugs as well...tryed even suplying the fuel from a bottle and still no go...I am fresh outta ideas.
I’m getting ready to install this on my 2010 crossbones. I hope it works. It says it’s not compatible with my model but I don’t understand why it’s not. It has the same crank sensor as other twin cam motors. I also have an S&S carb I’ll be using. Anyone else know if it will work for me?
Anyway you could make a printed out part list? That would be awesome!
And carb kit of your choice
so i can leave my current ecm conected or do i need to just pull the 15 and 5 amp fuse for the ecm and fuel pump since im not going to use those then just wire up the ignition and install the carb?
Have a link for the choke mount on Amazon?
What kind of fuel filter did you use
Did you notice the bike running any hotter
Thanks for all this great much needed info…!
Same exact bike, and planning on doing this as well,, had enough from this EFI….
Would you or anyone here have a complete parts list of all the parts needed….
Any help or advise would be greatly appreciated….
Thunder heart stand alone ignition .ebay
Efi to carb tank conversion kit . Ebay
These are the only parts I ordered to do the job cost maybe 500 bucks if fhat
@@everettthoman2097 ::: Thank You… Perfect Timing….
@@reaperronin8898 I already had carb kit
@@reaperronin8898 iv run the bike without the stand alone ignition. Just unplugged the efi crap still got spark to coil an just did the tank conversion ran fine didn't need stand alone ignition. I just added the thunder heart to advance timing with the cams I has
@@everettthoman2097
I actually came to the comment section to ask you this.
I was wondering if you had to change the ignition or you could just do the carb conversion without it.
I have a 97 road king I need to do this on because the fuel injection is giving issue.
I have the carburetor and manifold, if I just switch the tank around to a petcock, is there anything else I would need?
What does the kit from Amazon come with?
Please comment with a full parts list required.
May I have the name of the place we're u got all the parts from.name of parts too please. Thinking of doing this as well.mahalo for inspiration to me. Again Mahalo for ur help!!! Aloha
Would this be the same for a evo
Great bike, I don't get as good of a sound with single fire, you?
do you still have your fob or did it delete that also
At time :46 your throttle cables look very tight.
can i use same chargining system
Does your fuel Guage still work after removing the pump and all that?
Yes it will
I have the exact same bike same color. I got the same carb setup and ignition. A thunderheart. I kept having carb sneezes harley had my bike for 2 months and couldn't figure it out I got it back switched out the ignition for a dynatek tc88 and a namz 32435-01 harness. And it ran way better. I rejetted the carb to a 30 pilot , 50 accelerator pump and a 96 needle runs amazing now. I wanted to give you a heads up because it was a nightmare for me and then harley. So if its carb sneezing and doesn't have the power you know it should now you know. Another issue I was having was backfiring on startup with that ignition. That things trash
Also with the new ignition I added a map sensor to the intake manifold. Your bike had one by the ecm called the barometric pressure sensor same think move it to the manifold drill the hole that also makes it run smoother
The carb sneezing as you call it was a lean condition a rich condition it would pop thru the exhaust ! I prefer S & S carbs but a miku I will flo more air but are a bitch to tune pilot jet main jet needle setting & air speed screw !
Yeah I'm going to attempt to help a friend of mine change his 2007 to carburetor only because it has an electrical issue and the two Harley-Davidson local dealers through some parts at it it didn't fix it it's got a code for throttle position sensor and map sensor they replace those items it didn't fix it it just won't take throttle it will just idle I even replaced the entire wiring harness from a used bike the bike had previously been in a fire and ran fine when I rebuild it for 2 years then it started having these problems can't even clear the codes to get to another dealer they said all this is going to be a winter project and charged him $250 for 2 hours worth of work so I've got a CV carburetor and I figure with some standalone ignition module maybe utilizing the crank position sensor to tell the computer what the heck is happening in the motor I should make a running motorcycle out of it again I know carburetors and some electrical but the problem he is with his I'm stumped and heck smarter people than me or stumped either that or they don't have a good technicians at the two dealers LOL
Your camera skills r worse than mine,lol