I've just rebuilt one, only option is engine out, easiest way is complete engine/box/subframe out the bottom using a two post lift. I wouldn't even attempt out the top I dont think it would go
@@RichsRides Gloucester way, you can't do anything without removing the engines on these, that's why BMW made it so comes out the bottom complete, they use a big table jig
Sorry to hear that mate - when you were using the first bore scope where we couldn’t see the piston as well and it looked alright I was thinking/hoping this would be all top end/valve related. It’s certainly a bigger job than anticipated but frankly it makes for great RUclips content (which is partly why we’re here, no?) and it’s a great learning exercise - you’ll end up knowing this engine better than most BMW techs! I’m sure you’ll get it sorted 💪🏻 it’s only nuts and bolts. You can probably do this by supporting the engine from the top using a cross beam and dropping the subframe off, then taking the heads off. That should allow you to get the sump off and push the piston out the top/push a new one in (if it’s anything like the E9x M3s) - bit less work than taking the whole engine out. Great excuse to replace all the shells whilst you’re at it for longevity. If you live near Newbury, Berkshire you’re always welcome to use my lift if needed 👍🏻. Good luck and keep up the great videos.
+Luke Oxley cheers Luke, I'm sure it's possible without having to drop the engine. I'm in Cambridgeshire, bit too far away to borrow your lift but thanks for the offer. Think it'll be good to show a driveway fix for this, don't think that's been done before. Like you said, it's only nuts and bolts, can't be that difficult?
@@RichsRides I think showing the masses that something as complex as changing an M5 piston/rod/shells as a DIY on a driveway would be a massive inspiration for many - and very possible I agree. That’s the spirit mate - nuts and bolts, bit by bit 💪🏻 Really looking forward to the rest of this series Rich.
Take your time and carry on you're doing well so far. Don't let this putt you off. I suggest you might as well replace/buy forged parts whilst the engine is apart and you'll end up with a more stronger engine.
+P4RVEZ02 thanks for the support, I'm not sure about forging it. This is a salvage car that will run stock boost. I don't think it's financially viable to forge it. Maybe if it was a clean car? I was also watching something on forged components the other day and it talked about piston slap when the engine is cold. Honestly, the animation they had was exaggerated, but made me shudder!
Gutted for you Rich, but at least you know what it is now. BMW approved warranty is worth every penny from seeing this. My HUD was replaced, and water ingress was fixed (classic puddle in rear footwell), for around £100. It would have cost me £1500 for HUD part alone. These girls are money pits but they are supercars. I saw your first M5 vid when I was researching/buying my 2014 M5 back in July - and since then have only been casually watching a few of your adventures with this car. But am genuinely interested now, I'm learning a lot about these engines just by watching your show. Eagerly awaiting your next vid. You must be getting more and more subs now. Keep up the great work. To motivate yourself, just imagine that bitch when you open her up on the motorway and she is still breaking traction at 80mph in 3rd gear, stock.
+1980videoking Couldn't get a warranty, they wouldn't entertain a salvage car, not sure why? Glad you've enjoyed it, I've learned so much over the last 9 months. Its certainly been an adventure, and it's about a million miles from being over unfortunately. But we'll get her fixed and back to glory! I'm determined to do this on the driveway, and show what anyone can do! There's no need for it to cost 10k+ at a garage to replace the engine! I think BMW have this as 50+ hrs work plus the replacement engine! Wish the subs the flowing in but I'm clearly not good at RUclips. I could really do with the ad revenue to help pay for this. Going to be amazing when this is fixed and rolling. 😁
Now I do believe you did not want to do that I said, I said keep away from cylinder number 6.... It's only Meee.... 🤓 (Sorry couldn't resist. I feel your pain after a lifetime of building engines)
+Drew Eder I don't think I did, it just replaced them. I found after this video that I had an issue with cylinder 6 that was causing the rough idle, I'm still in the process of fixing that to see whether the DME update had any impact.
Yeah I saw the engine tear down for that after watching this. So you can turn the engine over while doing the compression test?! I just know they can be temperamental cars and don't wanna mess something up. Doing this test after this 4th weekend!
@@dreweder90 sorry, yes. Everything was plugged in for the test. I think the only things I removed were the fuse for the fuel pump ( rear fuse panel but can't remember the number) and all the plugs. I find it better to do a compression test if the engine is free to spin if that makes sense.
Okay! Sounds good. I just know it's a pain to get at coil/plugs with them still mounted. I probably won't remount them but plug everything back in and remove the fuel fuse! Thanks for the video! Definitely following for updates on your engine progress!
+D M thanks man, it's disappointing but not impossible. I've replaced a few engines back in the day, but replacing a piston will be a first for me! How hard can it be though?
+Daxxr going to do a bit of online shopping to see what is available. might just go for new parts to make sure it'll last. considering what else I should be doing as preventative maintenance while it's all open.
I have built many engines over the years, my advice would be to keep the costs down. New bolts, gaskets etc, but a used single rod and piston is a good option. Replace the rings with genuine parts, they are what really gives the cylinder its compression
+Daxxr good advice, what do you think about doing all the bottom end bearings while it's all open? engine is on 54k miles and the piston damage makes me think it's had a bit of a hard time towards the end. is it worth looking at a timing chain kit too?
Rod bearings are a good idea on the v8, plus the sump would already be off. Timing chain kit could be reused if you plan on selling the car, for long term ownership I would replace them
+Daxxr think I'll have a look at the state of the timing chain guide rails and see how worn they are before going for it, aren't they supposed to be 100k miles life or something like that?
This one is heartbreaking, but it is what it is. Time to rol my sleeves up and get dirty. Things are about to get really interesting.
I've just rebuilt one, only option is engine out, easiest way is complete engine/box/subframe out the bottom using a two post lift. I wouldn't even attempt out the top I dont think it would go
Pop it round my unit we'll soon have it rebuilt
+Ben Black that's going to be a problem for me. Time to re-rewrite the rules I think.
Just hope I can back this up with action now!
@@Ben-in6qh where about's are you Ben?
@@RichsRides Gloucester way, you can't do anything without removing the engines on these, that's why BMW made it so comes out the bottom complete, they use a big table jig
Sorry to hear that mate - when you were using the first bore scope where we couldn’t see the piston as well and it looked alright I was thinking/hoping this would be all top end/valve related.
It’s certainly a bigger job than anticipated but frankly it makes for great RUclips content (which is partly why we’re here, no?) and it’s a great learning exercise - you’ll end up knowing this engine better than most BMW techs! I’m sure you’ll get it sorted 💪🏻 it’s only nuts and bolts.
You can probably do this by supporting the engine from the top using a cross beam and dropping the subframe off, then taking the heads off. That should allow you to get the sump off and push the piston out the top/push a new one in (if it’s anything like the E9x M3s) - bit less work than taking the whole engine out. Great excuse to replace all the shells whilst you’re at it for longevity.
If you live near Newbury, Berkshire you’re always welcome to use my lift if needed 👍🏻.
Good luck and keep up the great videos.
+Luke Oxley cheers Luke, I'm sure it's possible without having to drop the engine. I'm in Cambridgeshire, bit too far away to borrow your lift but thanks for the offer.
Think it'll be good to show a driveway fix for this, don't think that's been done before. Like you said, it's only nuts and bolts, can't be that difficult?
@@RichsRides I think showing the masses that something as complex as changing an M5 piston/rod/shells as a DIY on a driveway would be a massive inspiration for many - and very possible I agree.
That’s the spirit mate - nuts and bolts, bit by bit 💪🏻
Really looking forward to the rest of this series Rich.
Take your time and carry on you're doing well so far. Don't let this putt you off. I suggest you might as well replace/buy forged parts whilst the engine is apart and you'll end up with a more stronger engine.
+P4RVEZ02 thanks for the support, I'm not sure about forging it. This is a salvage car that will run stock boost. I don't think it's financially viable to forge it. Maybe if it was a clean car?
I was also watching something on forged components the other day and it talked about piston slap when the engine is cold. Honestly, the animation they had was exaggerated, but made me shudder!
Glad you worked out what the issue was, can’t wait to see it sorted
+b21playa cheers buddy, was really expecting it to be the valve. At least it's getting warmer now!
@@RichsRides that’s true, just a shame it wasn’t valve. Hopefully you can find a decent used piston and rod
+b21playa would've been a hell of a lot easier! I'm kinda looking forward to this in a weird way.
Gutted for you Rich, but at least you know what it is now. BMW approved warranty is worth every penny from seeing this. My HUD was replaced, and water ingress was fixed (classic puddle in rear footwell), for around £100. It would have cost me £1500 for HUD part alone. These girls are money pits but they are supercars.
I saw your first M5 vid when I was researching/buying my 2014 M5 back in July - and since then have only been casually watching a few of your adventures with this car. But am genuinely interested now, I'm learning a lot about these engines just by watching your show. Eagerly awaiting your next vid. You must be getting more and more subs now.
Keep up the great work. To motivate yourself, just imagine that bitch when you open her up on the motorway and she is still breaking traction at 80mph in 3rd gear, stock.
+1980videoking Couldn't get a warranty, they wouldn't entertain a salvage car, not sure why?
Glad you've enjoyed it, I've learned so much over the last 9 months. Its certainly been an adventure, and it's about a million miles from being over unfortunately. But we'll get her fixed and back to glory!
I'm determined to do this on the driveway, and show what anyone can do! There's no need for it to cost 10k+ at a garage to replace the engine! I think BMW have this as 50+ hrs work plus the replacement engine!
Wish the subs the flowing in but I'm clearly not good at RUclips. I could really do with the ad revenue to help pay for this.
Going to be amazing when this is fixed and rolling. 😁
Keep up the good work. Keep working
+Bmw_5_ Bmw_5_ thank buddy, I won't stop until this is finished...... could be quite a while.
I and many will follow you 👌✌️
+Bmw_5_ Bmw_5_ thanks dude. appreciate the support.
Now I do believe you did not want to do that I said, I said keep away from cylinder number 6.... It's only Meee.... 🤓 (Sorry couldn't resist. I feel your pain after a lifetime of building engines)
What size is the adapter for the spark plug hole, m14x1.25?
Do you unplug the DMEs and then re plug them back in before turning over engine for the actual test?
+Drew Eder I don't think I did, it just replaced them. I found after this video that I had an issue with cylinder 6 that was causing the rough idle, I'm still in the process of fixing that to see whether the DME update had any impact.
Yeah I saw the engine tear down for that after watching this. So you can turn the engine over while doing the compression test?! I just know they can be temperamental cars and don't wanna mess something up. Doing this test after this 4th weekend!
@@dreweder90 sorry, yes. Everything was plugged in for the test. I think the only things I removed were the fuse for the fuel pump ( rear fuse panel but can't remember the number) and all the plugs. I find it better to do a compression test if the engine is free to spin if that makes sense.
Okay! Sounds good. I just know it's a pain to get at coil/plugs with them still mounted. I probably won't remount them but plug everything back in and remove the fuel fuse! Thanks for the video! Definitely following for updates on your engine progress!
@@dreweder90 yeah the rear plugs can be a pain but manageable. Why are you doing a compression test, problems?
sorry mate , wish you the nervs to fix it ..
+D M thanks man, it's disappointing but not impossible. I've replaced a few engines back in the day, but replacing a piston will be a first for me!
How hard can it be though?
Broken ringland, damn.
Get a secondhand rod and piston if you can.
+Daxxr going to do a bit of online shopping to see what is available. might just go for new parts to make sure it'll last. considering what else I should be doing as preventative maintenance while it's all open.
I have built many engines over the years, my advice would be to keep the costs down. New bolts, gaskets etc, but a used single rod and piston is a good option. Replace the rings with genuine parts, they are what really gives the cylinder its compression
+Daxxr good advice, what do you think about doing all the bottom end bearings while it's all open? engine is on 54k miles and the piston damage makes me think it's had a bit of a hard time towards the end. is it worth looking at a timing chain kit too?
Rod bearings are a good idea on the v8, plus the sump would already be off. Timing chain kit could be reused if you plan on selling the car, for long term ownership I would replace them
+Daxxr think I'll have a look at the state of the timing chain guide rails and see how worn they are before going for it, aren't they supposed to be 100k miles life or something like that?