How to Paint for Competition - Part 1 - HC 452
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- Опубликовано: 31 май 2024
- In this Hobby Cheating Tutorial, I take you through how to paint for competition featuring this awesome new figure from the Mindworks Games kickstarter! You can get all of these figures at the link below!
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More more display videos PLEASE! I am tired of speed paint and quick tutorials
my boi vince dropping the high end stuff like it's nothing!
Thank you sir, happy with how this one is coming out. :)
Close to tears watching this not only for what Vince was able to do with the skin, but the utter gulf of color theory understanding I have to even keep up with the explanation.
It’s all just a journey. :) no rush, it’s all learnable.
Vince, running speed paints though an airbrush to easily create blended skin tones is my favorite of all the techniques you’ve ever shared. I’ve watched hundreds of your videos but this technique is something special. My skin went from looking average with 3 hours of work; to looking incredibly smooth, rich and blended in 2 hours.
Any chance we could see a broader video on this technique, covering how we could use it for dark brown skin, green orc skin, purple drown skin, etc?
That little bit of green gold does really fit the fantasy painting aesthetic.
I can second the others in saying, more videos like this. Really looking to push past my current skill level.
Thanks Vince! I was trying to figure out how to get to comp-level minis, and this is so timely! Your material is as always amazing.
It's amazing to see speed painting tools like speed paints be used for such a (in my opinion) high level technique such as applying color filters. I do feel like not having tones is the biggest thing that keeps skin from looking like skin... It makes me wonder what other tools we aren't using at their max potential
I totally agree!
Recent example of mine.
I was painting a Red Sonya like figure, so - pale skin. Was quite happy how skin shadows and highlings ended up (well, on my level, and I am not in any way a good painter =) ). But something seemed off, ivory color is nice, but on an actual figure of a woman it looks... not to fitting.
Suddenly I remembered my scale modeling days and all sorts of filters for camo patterns and such. So I took Speedpaint Crusader Skin, thinned it with medium almost 3 to 1 and have an overall coat. Now THAT was a nice skin color.
When you picked up the airbrush I thought but what about the speedpaints you made a tutorial about for high quality skins. But seconds later you pulled them out. Awesome. The speedpaints got into my painting routine for skintones since you first introduced them.
That skin looks so good!
Really excited to tag along for this series, thanks for the video!
My pleasure!
Dang Vince. This is in my opinion some of your best work. I'd have never though of using the green like that, but it really did bring out that something-something that added to the overall look. Excellent work, and I learned something! Thank you.
Vince is a true master. Looks gorgeous. Also, there is some seriously high quality lessons here packed into a relatively short video - all for free, which is just amazing. Thanks
Amazing video and you really have a mastery of painting skin tones. Very well explained as always too. And I really love how you show the "sketch" phase in such detail. Just a great tutorial - thank you!
Hey Vince, quick question. I recently competed in (and won bronze!) the Miniature Painting Open from Cult of Paint. It was my first competition, and I wanna thank you for your nearly half a thousand videos, your teachings definitely helped me win something!
Some of the feedback I had, from Albert Moreto Font, was coincidentally regarding tonal variation, or the lack of it specifically. How on earth do you go about picking a "correct" colour to add on top of another to introduce that variation?
With the above video I would've never picked something like a chartreuse, but it clearly works, and whilst I guess there's no hard and fast rule, do you have any suggestions on perhaps a safe choice for each colour? E.g. For red glaze/filter in X, blue glaze/filter in Y.
It’s really about experimentation that and figuring out what would be the environment be doing? What would the environment be adding to the colors? Would there be yellows or greens blues red things like that? What sort of nearby in the color family what can you actually imagine that is being toned by the environment around it.
Love the skin! Please do a video on interference colors!!
What adjustments would you make for darker skin tones? What adjustments would you make for east Asian skin tones?
Working on a Storm from X-Men and Scorpina from Power Rangers figures.
The short answer is just to shift the spectrum into those tones. Darker skin tones like Africans skin tones obviously you’re shifting more umbers and things of that nature. Asians skin tone doesn’t really have that much difference overall it has a bit more sepia in it often but for the most part you’re dealing with the same sort of general tones.
This is so cool and valuable video. Thank you, Vince, for sharing this experience.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Vince, this is absolutely beautiful work. Thank you for a great HC video. I aspire to be doing this work and love seeing you continuously push more and more on the model, just brilliant. Have a great week.
Stunning. That is a step above.
Exquisite procedural video. Looking forward to the rest of the miniature components.
You're the man. She looks so good!
amazing work Vince!
Just what I'm working on at the moment. Great video Vince
That skin looks tremendous, excited to see the rest!
Awesome tutorial, Vince buddy you are great painter, i love the tones of her skin is so passionated :D
Thank you so much 😀
Awesome skin tone process Vince, keep the hobby cheating coming.
Another superb tutorial…..thanks so much for your ongoing teaching and inspiration for us!
It's my pleasure
Beautiful.
Brilliant Video for my skill level!!! Saved and in the can!!! Thanks for this video!!!!
Glad it helped!
Awesome!
Your understanding of the subtle effects of light is just remarkable. These are indeed the same basic principles that one sees effectively used in traditional figurative and portrait painting- like one might see in the works of the painter John Singer Sargent. Great video!
Brilliant as always. Thanks Vincey V. You’re a great guy
My pleasure!
I'm a simple man ... I see a vincy v video, I hit the like button
Masterful again Vince. Everything you show is so inspirational. Thanks again mate 🙂👍👍
My pleasure!
More of these types of videos Vince. Thank you.
More to come!
Thank you once again.
You rock
🤘👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
I love it when you pull something out of your hat that I'd never thought of that INSTANTLY makes so much sense that I feel almost silly for not having thought of it. We are blind to our blindspots though, and little tips and tricks like the speedpaint "trick" are really what makes the collaborative part of this hobby so fun.
Also, well done on Deth Wizards! I can't wait for my physical copy and cards to arrive.
Awesome on both counts!
Beautiful, both the miniature and your paintjob. Really curious to see the end result!
Thank you very much!
Excellent overview, Vince! I love seen how the "roughness" of the initial layers is turned into the super smooth final result with glazes and filters. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
I was going to get a different figure. But with this, I may need to change my choice. Can't pass on the chance of a masterclass with Vince!
I hope you'll keep a vibrant tone for her hair and dress.
Amazing work on the skin, really breathtaking result.
Will you make a review of the heavy body acrylics too ?
Saw Marco Frisoni video and their non separating ability seems interesting
Probably, I need more time to play with them
wonderful video
Thank you! Cheers!
So my other half, who has a more classical art education. Was introduced to you by me, she now paints minis, and told me that when you busted out the speed paints you were using the sfumato technique favoured by Leonardo DaVinci.
Vincy V, the DaVinci of the mini world, 🖌
Simply stunning, never thought of speed paints being used like this due to all the slap chop videos that has been pushed on us, more of the same please.
Thank you so much 😀
I love all Vince Ventrulla videos
WOW....looks incredible Vince!!!! I almost want to thankyou for not reviewing their paints. Marco Frisoni already did and they look incredible, but I'm running out of room for paint storage....
It’s like getting to watch Renoir work. Not kidding.
One day when I am grown up, I want to be a Vince too!
Amazing work and tutorial, Sir!
Thank you very much! :)
So amazing it doesn’t look real
Can't believe we've got to wait 6+ months for these figures!
It’s a painful wait they are so great
I love the way this looks! I've backed the paint set, but I'm very tempted to add a figure or two.. are you going to review the paint at some point?
Still working with them, can’t review paint that quickly. :)
Outstanding work!
And yet it is so far beyond of what I would consider "hobby level" that you might want to create a new label for this kind of quality, no?
Beautifully done! As you progress how do you control your overspray so it doesn’t contaminate finished parts?
You’re working so thin. You don’t really risk much. The key is tight nozzle, trigger control and very thin paint.
Awesome ! Could you do female bronzed skin tone one day ? I.e. on snake heart also from mindworks…
Great suggestion!
Hi Vince. It still amazes me how you do this. The "ugly phase" is very apparent but it still seems like magic the way this ends up looking so good. My one question is, have thinned speed paints made inks obsolete or is there some useful difference between the two?
Inks have more saturation, so I still go to them for when that is needed.
This looks amazing! How do you keep your lighter layers from looking chalky? I can’t seem to get a smooth finish.
Good paints, work thicker, glaze down, lots of filtering.
What are the names of those two colors from Army Painter you first use over the black primer?
They make for a awesome skin color...
Love it, always great to see display level. When your glazing the skin in between transitions do you use the highlight, the shadow or the mid tone?
I already feel like the answer will be it depends lol
You’re correct, the answer is all of the above and many half steps between. :)
@@VinceVenturella I knew it as soon as a typed it. I think I was just hopeful 😝 cheers Vince
Thanks, Vince! When you thin the speed paints in the tonal section 3:1 with thinner, are you thinning it with speedpaint medium or standard acrylic thinner? Thanks!
Just my normal 80/20 mix of airbrush thinner/flow improver respectively.
@@VinceVenturella Thanks again!
It is late May when this was filmed…yet I see Vince is wearing 3 if not 4 layers if you want to count the apron…how cold do you keep it in your hobby room Vince? Or are you one of those people that is cold at 75f
hello Vince, I can't see link about priming video you talked about
When you say thinner are you using airbrush medium or the Army Painter Speed Paint Medium?
Just airbrush thinner
Technical question, Vince. I find that when I want to airbrush glaze in order to get the transparency I have to thin the paint so much it's super hard to control and prevent spidering. Any tips on this, and what kind of PSI are you using? I also have an Infinity. Thanks!
I still go at 18 PSI, but the key there is trigger control. If you have any challenges, drop to 10 or so PSI
Vince, you are inhuman. I could never imagine processing all these steps and producing something this brilliant. Do you not use a spray booth at all when you airbrush like this?
Normally yes. I didn’t in this case because the light in there is bad. :)
😊
Do you still need to wash the figure? What about mold lines from casting process?
I didn’t do any extra washes. There was some mold clean up, but it was very minimal.
Love your videos. This is going to be a noob question. The thinners you use, is it normal thinners, or is it acrylic retardant or flow aid?
Normal airbrush thinner and flow improver
with this id like to point out brush. its not important how pointy your brush is most of the time. brush isnt that important, its your skill with using it. i tend to use the brush thats next to me most of the time, slapping paint, at this stage pointy tip is least important thing. its easy to buy a best brush, but the thing is about learning of using it.
also one thing ive noticed - we tend to avoid painting reflected light for contrast. its kinda weird in some cases, like the model has reflector light shining on it
one tip on that from my side - when painting bounce light mix a little of the colour that is bouncing, its almost unperceivable, but it works on our monkey brains
Hey Vince, I have a question about this video. How long did the skin take you from start to finish?
Maybe 20 hours total.
@@VinceVenturella you did a stunning job on this model. I can’t wait until I see the second video.
Awesome video looking forward to the rest of the series, thank you for sharing!!😍😍
I may have a few questions in the future when I try to tackle this kind of approach, for now just wanted to say thanks 🤗
Please do!
@@VinceVenturella 🫶🫶🫶
hello vince, how many hours did it take to finish the skin? Just an estimate would be enough!
Probably about 20 hours or so.
@@VinceVenturella thank you!
Can you send a link of where you got the miniature?
He literally says in the description and the video there is a link to the kickstarter page,. So just click the ...More. to see the link. Hope this helps
www.kickstarter.com/projects/artofbrom/the-art-of-brom-0
I don't know how to overcome this but in the stages where you're airbrush glazing or filtering with the speed paints - it's essentially impossible to see anything of where the paint is landing on the miniature or how it's helping with the transitions.
If I want to replicate this technique to push my models up a level how can I know if I am doing the technique correctly or learn where to place the colours, etc.?
It’s tough because it is a very subtle effect but ideally you will see the change in person when you bring a thin filter over it. You will notice a slight change, but it’s light and then you kind of build it up and build it up. My best advice is to simply do it and you’ll get a sense of it and as you work with it, you’ll be able to dial in exactly the amount of change you’re able to affect with each pass
This video clearly demonstrates how terribly difficult to make proper skin tones with fast drying acrylics... And even after all this hard work, we still clearly see the strokes and layers :( Blending and gradients is terrible pain with acrylics overall.
Let’s do a Kickstarter to buy this poor woman some underwear.
All I can say is... damn... legs. 😅