Hello, I had one of these, I see you've the Enya 11 (1.1), this upgrade, maybe was even suggested somewhere on the box, but problem was the 1.1 destroyed the clutch and brake, the extra torque would mince the clutch mech pads if tyres were caked in mud, or even on high grip surface be gentle on throttle inputs, if it fails she won't be able to stop, the brake will fail as you use it as its fighting the 1.1 without the clutch engaging, not a big problem if using in a large open area, either wait for fuel to run out, or scope her up as she passes by, Personally I would use her, just don't ever give her the full beans from stationary, she is a piece of RC history and certainly deserves a spot on the shelf once run a few times, i have looked for a Nitro Brute a couple of times and never found much info, thank you very much for sharing your restoration, P.s, does yours have the larger fuel tank? did you know there was a aftermarket exhaust that exited straight up between the cab and bed (ours melted!! lol) If you are familiar with the other Kyosho nitro offerings of the time (RS200 and 405 Rallye) these where considered bombproof when compared to the NB, best of luck, and again thanks for sharing, cheers Andrew.
Hello André, how are you? So, in relation to the brakes, due to the engine, they really don't last long, the disc is already thin. As for the tires, they are available on the Kyosho website, original, but I don't think they are worth it because they are expensive. Thank you very much for your comment, have a great week.
@@rcornothing7973 @ 16.39 is where the problem starts, on watching again in slowmo you are missing the self adhesive clutch pads that stick inside of the part in your right hand (2x pads like sticky sand paper), the 3 piece sprung loaded metal arms engage on these when spinning, the 11 or 1.1 destroys them. the part is your right hand let's call the "clutch housing" anyway this part looks like it has been run without the pads (it looks scratched by the metal arms) if so it means that part gets hot, causing it to fail, it is specific part to Nitro Brute. hope this helps. .edit- this will explain the wear you mention on brakes. The missing clutch pads were the only thing standing in the way of the huge torque of that 11 and what in essence a Big Brute gearbox. If possible I would see if a spare clutch housing part is available, and try source the self adhesive clutch pads (they were literally 100 grit sand paper with sticky backing) or they can be made easy. I'm certain it's the pads that allow the slippage to happen without the centrifugal alloy arms coming into contact with the plastic clutch housing. (They could never be replaced with alloy because of balancing) if your plastic clutch housing feels brittle it has previously gotten to hot. Check for cracks, also. From memory we replaced that housing multiple times, Also had to replace gearbox parts on one occasion after the housing melted. It was a shame the Nitro Brute failed, if it had been designed from the ground up, and been a monster truck version of Kyoshos pull start nitro rally cars, it would of been a beast,... could of been a different world!?! CLOD who?! Big Brute was quite the weapon and could run rings around Tamiyas King Cab over the ruff stuff, but the Nitro Brute's balance was all outta wack with that heavy engine hanging out back, removing the 400 gram nicad out the middle add fuel and tank which weights nothing, topping off the rear end with friction shocks, awesome thanks kyosho, (do I still sound angry after 30 years? 😂) joking aside, I honestly think, the Nitro Brute is one of the rarer Kyoshos, because from what I remember, they didn't sell (we got ours reduced after launch) it was our 2nd or 3rd Kyosho, and was our last, our melting happened once we fitted the Enya 11 (we were O.S engine fans, but was impressed with the 11, especially after running the 09 which was guttless) this was within weeks of purchasing, it was sat for months before we could get parts, after that parts were avaliable, but no more than 6 months and we were told, only parts available were the ones also compatible with Big Brute, with that and the aftermarket exhaust failing we gave up. Only reason Kyosho fans don't mention how rare it is, is because they don't know it exists, pretty sure many Nitro Brutes were converted over to Big Brutes, even vaguely remember a conversion kit was available as a special order through your local shop direct from Kyosho at reduced cost, mine never ran for more than 3 or 4 tank fulls before breaking, so to own such a clean working example in 2024, congratulations there really cannot be to many left in the world. I have subbed and looking fwd to seeing her possibly run, good inspection of the plastic housing looking for tiny cracks, heat damage or brittleness now you know what to look for, let me know how you get on with finding info on the clutch pads, Cheers and best wishes. Andrew.
@@MrFu75 yes it is true! I had seen it, I put double-sided tape on it, but the tape was thin. At the moment there was no thicker 3M tape. The disc would have to be replaced, it is very thin, but as there is no such replacement part on the market, there is not much that can be done.
@@rcornothing7973 3m tape sounds ideal, any serious over torque will exceed the pads design allowing slip (protecting that Big Brute gearbox from engine) enough grip to drive the truck without slipping (so polishing those scratches on the inside of the clutch housing is a good thing (nothing to lose, a ruff surface combined with scratched alloy arms is almost guaranteed clutch stuck in drive (this centrifugal clutch design was more common a few years earlier, and worked better in 1/8, we used to polish all contacting clutch parts, as forces involved were enough to engage without slippage) but the NB seemed to suffer with needing constant cleaning and polishing surfaces to keep it working, if it stops working it always jammed in the open position, means you cannot stop, just make sure it hasn't totally locked open solid, again to protect gearbox. As for reading your comment about parts availability, that's a shame, I was hoping someone had found a warehouse full, have you found any forums or Nitro Brute groups? I did see someone asking for instructions last year, with Kyosho reissues ongoing, I hope we see a Big Brute reissue.
@@MrFu75 Thanks for the tips, they are very useful. I didn't find any forum about it, just one where someone is restoring a model, but who also encountered the same problem: missing parts.
I have a nitro car that is 20 years old, but it is still in like new condition without any dirt, every time after playing, I will clean the nitro car by using an air compressor so that every part is clean from dust and oil~malaysia boy🇲🇾
An air compressor is essential equipment for cleaning, as I live in an apartment, I don't have one as there is nowhere to put it. Thank you for your comment.
@@rcornothing7973 limpia bien los neumáticos, ajuste los neumáticos a la llanta con un relleno para que recupere su forma y después rocielos varias veces con spray de silicona una y otra vez,si no están en muy mal estado recuperarán bastante de su elasticidad y podrá manejarlos nuevamente
Wow that truck looks like it was under a shed lol. It's cool to see old tech. I just pulled my Sportwerks Mayhem Nitro buggies out after 22 or 23 years of storage. But the tech is still what we use today. Not like that truck. It would prob take years to get enough parts for it to run it. Like you said tires alone are a prob. Thanx for the video.
Thank you very much for your comment, there really aren't that many pieces available on the market and when you do find them, the price is high. I have his body, but it is broken and stained, but I will try to restore it.
@rcornothing7973 comments help us get content out. I like and comment on every video I watch. If nothing else, it let's me know I have already watched it lol.
Muito interessante a maneira como é feita a transferencia do motor para a caixa do diferencial muito engraçado bom video gostava de ver o produto final 👌👌
Wooow fantastic work but i have a question what is the name of the product that you used to clean the engine mount and also the engine head 11:22 thank you❤
@@diegoeugenioboschetti5626 Thanks for watching, the product is water with washing powder, but it is a soap for washing clothes dirty with grease, I didn't like it very much because it left the engine part dark, as you can see.
Not yet, I need the tires, and I haven't found tires that fit it, but as soon as I do, I'll provide a video. Thank you for your comment, please wait a little longer until I find the tires ok.
Boas. Belo video! No problema dos pneus. Seria de considerar 3D Printing? Resione 3D Printer Resin, F69 Flexible ou Prusament Resin Flex80. Nao sao resinas baratas mas e o que utilizo para imprmir penus e outras pecas demborracha para os meus projectos. Cumprimentos
I know how to fix that engine and its old but might need a new engine and has little more horse power now and much better than old one and replace the air filter to a new one and also buy full set of ballbearings to every moving parts too because I don't like broze bushings or plastic brushings because it will wear out fast thats why so ballbearings are last longer than that
You're right, the engine is old and there aren't many bearings, but as I don't use it, I intend to leave it as is. I want to maintain its originality, who knows, maybe it will last a few more years
@@rcornothing7973 непереводит, но я я понял что ей 36, мне 38, у меня много было таких игрушек, траксас, миа 4 тюнгер Тайгер, баха 5 т, койшо Субару инпреза, и прочие самолетики
![[#2024MAMA] G-DRAGON - 무제(Untitled, 2014)+POWER+HOME SWEET HOME+뱅뱅뱅+FANTASTIC BABY | Mnet 241123 방송](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Ox29z5Nf1Uk/mqdefault.jpg)
Hello, I had one of these, I see you've the Enya 11 (1.1), this upgrade, maybe was even suggested somewhere on the box, but problem was the 1.1 destroyed the clutch and brake, the extra torque would mince the clutch mech pads if tyres were caked in mud, or even on high grip surface be gentle on throttle inputs, if it fails she won't be able to stop, the brake will fail as you use it as its fighting the 1.1 without the clutch engaging, not a big problem if using in a large open area, either wait for fuel to run out, or scope her up as she passes by, Personally I would use her, just don't ever give her the full beans from stationary, she is a piece of RC history and certainly deserves a spot on the shelf once run a few times, i have looked for a Nitro Brute a couple of times and never found much info, thank you very much for sharing your restoration, P.s, does yours have the larger fuel tank? did you know there was a aftermarket exhaust that exited straight up between the cab and bed (ours melted!! lol) If you are familiar with the other Kyosho nitro offerings of the time (RS200 and 405 Rallye) these where considered bombproof when compared to the NB, best of luck, and again thanks for sharing, cheers Andrew.
Hello André, how are you? So, in relation to the brakes, due to the engine, they really don't last long, the disc is already thin. As for the tires, they are available on the Kyosho website, original, but I don't think they are worth it because they are expensive. Thank you very much for your comment, have a great week.
@@rcornothing7973 @ 16.39 is where the problem starts, on watching again in slowmo you are missing the self adhesive clutch pads that stick inside of the part in your right hand (2x pads like sticky sand paper), the 3 piece sprung loaded metal arms engage on these when spinning, the 11 or 1.1 destroys them. the part is your right hand let's call the "clutch housing" anyway this part looks like it has been run without the pads (it looks scratched by the metal arms) if so it means that part gets hot, causing it to fail, it is specific part to Nitro Brute. hope this helps. .edit- this will explain the wear you mention on brakes. The missing clutch pads were the only thing standing in the way of the huge torque of that 11 and what in essence a Big Brute gearbox. If possible I would see if a spare clutch housing part is available, and try source the self adhesive clutch pads (they were literally 100 grit sand paper with sticky backing) or they can be made easy. I'm certain it's the pads that allow the slippage to happen without the centrifugal alloy arms coming into contact with the plastic clutch housing. (They could never be replaced with alloy because of balancing) if your plastic clutch housing feels brittle it has previously gotten to hot. Check for cracks, also. From memory we replaced that housing multiple times, Also had to replace gearbox parts on one occasion after the housing melted.
It was a shame the Nitro Brute failed, if it had been designed from the ground up, and been a monster truck version of Kyoshos pull start nitro rally cars, it would of been a beast,... could of been a different world!?! CLOD who?! Big Brute was quite the weapon and could run rings around Tamiyas King Cab over the ruff stuff, but the Nitro Brute's balance was all outta wack with that heavy engine hanging out back, removing the 400 gram nicad out the middle add fuel and tank which weights nothing, topping off the rear end with friction shocks, awesome thanks kyosho, (do I still sound angry after 30 years? 😂) joking aside, I honestly think, the Nitro Brute is one of the rarer Kyoshos, because from what I remember, they didn't sell (we got ours reduced after launch) it was our 2nd or 3rd Kyosho, and was our last, our melting happened once we fitted the Enya 11 (we were O.S engine fans, but was impressed with the 11, especially after running the 09 which was guttless) this was within weeks of purchasing, it was sat for months before we could get parts, after that parts were avaliable, but no more than 6 months and we were told, only parts available were the ones also compatible with Big Brute, with that and the aftermarket exhaust failing we gave up. Only reason Kyosho fans don't mention how rare it is, is because they don't know it exists, pretty sure many Nitro Brutes were converted over to Big Brutes, even vaguely remember a conversion kit was available as a special order through your local shop direct from Kyosho at reduced cost, mine never ran for more than 3 or 4 tank fulls before breaking, so to own such a clean working example in 2024, congratulations there really cannot be to many left in the world. I have subbed and looking fwd to seeing her possibly run, good inspection of the plastic housing looking for tiny cracks, heat damage or brittleness now you know what to look for, let me know how you get on with finding info on the clutch pads, Cheers and best wishes. Andrew.
@@MrFu75 yes it is true! I had seen it, I put double-sided tape on it, but the tape was thin. At the moment there was no thicker 3M tape. The disc would have to be replaced, it is very thin, but as there is no such replacement part on the market, there is not much that can be done.
@@rcornothing7973 3m tape sounds ideal, any serious over torque will exceed the pads design allowing slip (protecting that Big Brute gearbox from engine) enough grip to drive the truck without slipping (so polishing those scratches on the inside of the clutch housing is a good thing (nothing to lose, a ruff surface combined with scratched alloy arms is almost guaranteed clutch stuck in drive (this centrifugal clutch design was more common a few years earlier, and worked better in 1/8, we used to polish all contacting clutch parts, as forces involved were enough to engage without slippage) but the NB seemed to suffer with needing constant cleaning and polishing surfaces to keep it working, if it stops working it always jammed in the open position, means you cannot stop, just make sure it hasn't totally locked open solid, again to protect gearbox. As for reading your comment about parts availability, that's a shame, I was hoping someone had found a warehouse full, have you found any forums or Nitro Brute groups? I did see someone asking for instructions last year, with Kyosho reissues ongoing, I hope we see a Big Brute reissue.
@@MrFu75 Thanks for the tips, they are very useful. I didn't find any forum about it, just one where someone is restoring a model, but who also encountered the same problem: missing parts.
That's awesome it runs 👏🏾
I have a nitro car that is 20 years old, but it is still in like new condition without any dirt, every time after playing, I will clean the nitro car by using an air compressor so that every part is clean from dust and oil~malaysia boy🇲🇾
An air compressor is essential equipment for cleaning, as I live in an apartment, I don't have one as there is nowhere to put it. Thank you for your comment.
excellent restoration! thanks for sharing! Please I hope you can make a video running it, I love these videos

😊😊😊😊🎉🎉🎉
Thanks for commenting, I'll try to do that as soon as I get the tires or similar.
The shelf queen 😮😮😮😮❤❤
Very difficult to get in 2024 and very very expensive in ebay 😢😢😢
Yes, it's true, the parts you can find for this model are expensive.
@@rcornothing7973 limpia bien los neumáticos, ajuste los neumáticos a la llanta con un relleno para que recupere su forma y después rocielos varias veces con spray de silicona una y otra vez,si no están en muy mal estado recuperarán bastante de su elasticidad y podrá manejarlos nuevamente
@@pedroberciano2810 Los neumáticos estaban todos rotos, ya no los tengo. gracias por tu consejo.
Damn seen better days 30 yrs 😮 got to watch the rest
I didn't know Answer made RC parts. I had a 1989 Yamaha YZ80 with an Answer pipe.
Had no idea there was a nitro brute. I thought the only nitro monster truck they had at the time was the usa 1
Thank you for your comment, but yes there was. have a great week
Wow that truck looks like it was under a shed lol. It's cool to see old tech. I just pulled my Sportwerks Mayhem Nitro buggies out after 22 or 23 years of storage. But the tech is still what we use today. Not like that truck. It would prob take years to get enough parts for it to run it. Like you said tires alone are a prob. Thanx for the video.
Thank you very much for your comment, there really aren't that many pieces available on the market and when you do find them, the price is high. I have his body, but it is broken and stained, but I will try to restore it.
@rcornothing7973 comments help us get content out. I like and comment on every video I watch. If nothing else, it let's me know I have already watched it lol.
Muito interessante a maneira como é feita a transferencia do motor para a caixa do diferencial muito engraçado bom video gostava de ver o produto final 👌👌
Assim que encontrar os pneus, farei um vídeo. Obrigado pelo seu comentario
Wooow fantastic work but i have a question what is the name of the product that you used to clean the engine mount and also the engine head 11:22 thank you❤
@@diegoeugenioboschetti5626
Thanks for watching, the product is water with washing powder, but it is a soap for washing clothes dirty with grease, I didn't like it very much because it left the engine part dark, as you can see.
Were i find that electric screewdriver
Thanks for your comment, it's a Makita battery-powered screwdriver, you can find it at the home center or hardware store.
А машинка то ещё в хорошем сохране дать вторую жизнь я думаю хотел бы каждый 😊
thanks for the comment my dear
You have a driving video of this yet?
Not yet, I need the tires, and I haven't found tires that fit it, but as soon as I do, I'll provide a video. Thank you for your comment, please wait a little longer until I find the tires ok.
Sad don't get to see it drive 😭😭😭
Boas. Belo video! No problema dos pneus. Seria de considerar 3D Printing? Resione 3D Printer Resin, F69 Flexible ou Prusament Resin Flex80. Nao sao resinas baratas mas e o que utilizo para imprmir penus e outras pecas demborracha para os meus projectos. Cumprimentos
Obrigado pela ideia me caro
@@rcornothing7973 Se for preciso, posso ajudar na modelacao. E so uma questao de me enviar fotos e umas medidas dos pneus originais. Cumprimentos
That's! My noting.
I know how to fix that engine and its old but might need a new engine and has little more horse power now and much better than old one and replace the air filter to a new one and also buy full set of ballbearings to every moving parts too because I don't like broze bushings or plastic brushings because it will wear out fast thats why so ballbearings are last longer than that
You're right, the engine is old and there aren't many bearings, but as I don't use it, I intend to leave it as is. I want to maintain its originality, who knows, maybe it will last a few more years
1000000🎉
Ей реально 30 лет?
to be more exact. 36 years old. thanks
@@rcornothing7973 с какого года она?
@@rcornothing7973 непереводит, но я я понял что ей 36, мне 38, у меня много было таких игрушек, траксас, миа 4 тюнгер Тайгер, баха 5 т, койшо Субару инпреза, и прочие самолетики
Now what?
Not much of a "restoration" more like a cleaning
Thank you for your comment, have a great week.