For me, trouble ejecting is usually almost always the small belt at the front of the drive. I’ve fixed countless disc drives on game consoles, computers etc by popping it off, giving it a clean in warm soapy water and cleaning the wheels with a cotton bud and alcohol while the belt is off. Over time it seems the belt/wheels pick up grease along with aging rubber. Best wishes guys!
As someone who's had these problems over the years, I suspected the drive belt right away. Your diagnostics of the problem, and logically working through every possibility was still fascinating to watch. I've got to give your brother credit for first suggesting the problem at about 39:50 "maybe that belt is slipping". When doing some research on the issue, I came across your suggestion of putting the belt in boiling water. Even ordinary rubber bands are said to work, but with a limited life span.
The "clunk" you hear when it tries to open it, is belt being too loose to break the force of magnet in the top part of drive that holds the DVD while spinning. It has no problem to open with DVD inside because makes magnetic force between top and bottom side of spindle sandwich weaker. And yes, the top part spins with the bottom part together.
i had this exact same issue with a blueray drive (same diagnostic), i tried to fix it with no success, so i leave now a CD in it all time and it work always, but still frustrating to not have found a more elegant solution. I didn't noticed there was a magnet in this white thing or that the belt/motor could be weak, very interesting, i will definitly test out thoses solutions, thanks for a great video again (love the bro too, good insight and the exchange between the both of you was great)
I've just fixed the same problem with an old DVD drive. Small amount of washing up liquid to clean the belt followed by a soak in some boiling water and it works a treat. Many thanks for the video and to the others for the tip about the small belt. Many thanks, JM-B
I immediately diagnosed the belt to be loose but I'm glad you guys are not just tossing a working component into a dump even tho a optical drive is only 20 bucks to many things are thrown away even tho there perfectly fine
The white plastic with the magnet spins with the disk and keeps the disk in place and does not allow the disk to fly off when spinning. You will see the same configuration on a FAT PS2 Also. Without the white plastic and magnet there is no pressure onto the rubber on the drive spindle to drive the disk around either. The white plastic spins freely when gripping the disk and does not contact the lid when the magnet holds the disk in place.
@@tom13794 Exactly !! the magnet is sometimes on the drive spindle and sometimes built into the plastic disk that spins that can be white or black plastic.
sorry ! i was shouting at the screen before you even took the drive out ! we could see the belt that needed changing thru the tray opening ! :) the belt stretches over time and loses grip. the top magnet clamps together with the drive spindle to hold the disc and stop it moving around as it spins. the reason it wouldnt open is when shut the 2 magnets clamp together and need to be pulled apart to open the tray, but the belt slips. the reason it opens with a disc in is that the disc keeps the magnets slightly apart, so needs less force to pull them apart to open the try. :)
I guessed that. Because the drive was working fine when I took it out of the case and I knew it was because of the magnet but I didn't think it was because of the belt. Thank you and the owner of the channel
The magnet clamps the disc to the motor spindle so the disc does not slip. It spins along with the drive. but experiences little to no friction as it doesn't touch anything (other than the disc) while running. It is obviously a good design as these drives last many years and rarely if ever fail due to the magnet.
Not interference. When the disk is on, there is a slight distance(the thickness of the disk) between the magnet and the spindle, that's why the magnetic attraction is weaker. I think the problem is not the belt, its the extra friction from the wear down parts. Try to remove the gray plastic part and add some grease below it.
Will probably be an ms25 or ms28 drive they suffer most in the 360 Id recommend lubrication on the runners / teeth on the under side of the tray aswell
The belt is worn that is all. The little extra weight and thickness of the disk helps the laser drop easier, hence it works most times when there's a disk in the drive. This is very common on the xbox 360 drives as someone else said. With the lid off there's no resistance from the magnet so the rubber band has enough friction to open the drive also :)
I've had the top magnetic disc removed from a CD-ROM before while troubleshooting. The reason for that part is to hold the disk firmly against the spindle so it can spin the disk. Essentially, the disk is 'sandwiched" between the magnet above and the spindle below. So yes, the upper magnet does spin right along with the disk. Logic would dictate that since there is no bearing for the upper magnetic/plastic part in the cover that it shouldn't spin. However I'm pretty sure what happens is that the magnet/plastic part is held at just the right height as it spins that it isn't touching the sheet metal of the top case at any point. This allows it to spin freely right along with the disk. Otherwise, you can imagine the resistance/friction it would create against the spinning disk if it didn't also spin. Great video Vince! Keep 'em coming!
Oh, really interesting, I have one with the same exact fault. I didn't actually give it too much importance because I hardly ever use DVD/CD, so whenever I need to use it, I just open it by inserting a paper clip in the small hole under the tray and manually carry out the process. Btw, I do not think inserting a disc changes anything. From what I recall, the drive's laser checks if a disc is inserted everytime the tray is closed. If you pay attention when the device is working, as soon as you close the tray, the laser works shortly (if there is no disc), and then stops. So I don't think there is any sensor or anything too complicated about it. I think it is a mechanical issue, just like people are saying, it might have to do with grease, the belt, the faceplate bezel. For example, the PS1 used to have a common issue where it had problems reading discs, and once you flipped it upside down, it would read them easily, and the fix for it was as simple as cleaning and appliying new grease to the moving parts of the lens. I mean, other than a blown capacitor, a worn out laser, an issue with the motor or a fault with the logic board, I think it is hard for these devices to have more complicated issues. Cool stuff as usual Vince.
Lower right hand corner of the faceplate was out of alignment, likely catching against the front bezel. Taking it apart and putting it together likely fixed it...
@16:37 that's normal because when the tray slides in more it will move over, the gears will grip each other and push the part with the eye up so it grabs the disk and the thing in the top holds the disk down while it spins so it doesn't fly off when the inside of the disk is being read (the disk spins faster at the center and slower on the outside) I've taken apart a few cd and dvd drives even a portable one so i know how all the parts work inside them
I'm sure it's said countless times already, but that white magnetized bit at the top does spin with the spindle. I've seen it on a open PS3, and the car stereo head unit, i think it's common way these works. It doesn't make any friction as the magnet pulls it onto the top of the spindle in the center of it, where it's free from the edges as the spindle is lined up in a way it's clear. I believe it's just used to put pressure on the disc to keep it on the spindle.
@Vince there is also the method of banging the top of the PC while it is trying to open. Works 97% of the time. No idea why this fails, but the bump on the top of the PC opens it for some reason.
Yes, if you bump it in just a right time when tray motor start bump will help it separate disk motor from magnet. I use this "method" as procrastinative way to solve a problem delaying a day when I will open a drive and fix damn thing :)
I have the same issue for years on one of my computer's DVD drives. Already opened it and saw nothing special and ended up using always a paper clip if there's no DVD inside. I think I'll just try and find some rubber belt on aliexpress and try fixing that for good!
I have same "clunk" problem with one of my old DOS gaming machines. I just use a paper clip, not so good with working on insides on things! When I was a PC technician 20 years ago, it was a grease issue 99% of the time. I have loads of drives spare from a job lot if you need spares or want another project....some of them might very well work, just too pressed for time to check them all. Let me know if you want them FOC :-) You also mention your brother was working with resin...I could sure do with some help on that front, I'm just making a mess....
The top bit with the magnet do indeed spin with the spindle, the tolerance of it's keeper in the lid is wide enough, relying on disc thickness, that it clears both the top and the bottom of the keeper.
100% it's a combination of the drive belt and the magnet that holds the disc. This is a very common problem with PS2 's and Xbox's. The disc drive isn't able to drop because the magnet is too powerful. If you add two small strips of electrical tape to the magnet it will then work.
the Drive knowing if it has a disk in it or not has nothing to do with weight. the Drive gears open and lowers the laser and when it closes it raises it. one its closed the drive laser checks or a disk or not. well that is my understanding of it. so like others say it can be the belt slipping or the gears slipping.
the round white plastic piece that is inset into the top metal case and sits on top of the disc spindle is a magnet. or it is a piece of metal and the magnet is in the spindle the disc sits on but either way the two pieces are held together magnetically. Sometimes the magnet is too strong and it sticks to the spindle and keeps it from going into the down position when there is no disc in the disc drive. but the space between the two provided by the disc when it is in the drive allows for the two pieces to separate properly when the eject button is pushed. I had this problem with an original xbox and a 360 disc drive and all I did was keep a disc in it and I never had a problem again, unless I closed it without a disc inside. Don't know if this helps for you but it worked for me.
When you hit the eject button the tray is hitting on the spindle because it is stuck to the magnet which is being held in the up position so it won't open and that is the click you are hearing.
An easier way to open a dusty disc drive is to push in on the tray shortly after pressing the button, it should pop open. Also when a drive doesn’t open like this all you have to do is to open the tray, pull the little belt out, and then clean the belt and the pulleys it was on. The disc drive should then work fine for many more years.
54 seconds into the video: I had the same problem, it seems to happen a lot with the LG dvd drives. The belt that pulls the tray out was the problem. I gave a good clean to the belt, motor pulley and tray pulley and now it works fine. Now let's see if I was right. Edit: to take off the faceplate you need to pull out the tray using the paper clip tool.
It's the belt the magnet in the lid clamps the disc to the spindle and with the disc in it's easier for the belt to pull the two magnets apart. With no disc the magnets are closer together and need a greater force to separate them hence the belts weak.
Your persistence deserves some kind of award, but probably not from DVD manufacturers who've just lost a sale. :D Tried to fix my parents old-school standalone TV DVD player last week, it was so old it used IDE cables inside the box. I donated a new one to them in the end.
26:10 .... I think I have the answer. It drove me crazy, broke several units as well. The spindle or the cap on the top are MAGNETIC. They sanwich the CD and self center it using nothing but magnetic force. When opening, motor is not only fighting the tray mechanism but also trying to LOW the CD caddle and to do that it needs to unstick the two spindle pieces (on on the transport, one on the case. Now, with a CD, this magnetic force within the "sanwiched" spindle parts is lower and does the unsticking job more easy .... Find out it after broking several units ... LOL. Sometimes a better belt does the trick. Sometimes the plastic guides that for the mechanismo up and down are a bit worn, greasing can help this a bit. I havent been lucky with this ones =(
On some drives such as those on the older XBOX 360 it's possible to take that belt off for a clean just by opening the tray. No need to take anything apart. A slippy belt was a common fault on those units.
Very interesting - you've gotten further than I ever did taking apart optical drives. I had one case where I'd experience severe imbalance but pushing on the tray would often calm it down, and wouldn't mind getting this fixed. I suspect it might be the mechanism not getting lifted up all the way due to a sloppy belt, but I have no idea how the auto-balancing is supposed to work either. I would love to be able to fix things like this, drives that stop accepting CDs or any discs at all for no good reason (usually not a lot of use) are bad enough - I suspect bad caps or lasers / semiconductors in those cases, and then you're better off going out buying another. Quality of optical drives has become pretty crap though, as it was for floppy drives 15 years ago. I'd rather salvage an otherwise decent drive if it's only a minor problem.
I have a disc drive that is doing the same thing, and its the belt being worn and not being tight enough to loosen the magnetic disc holder which is what the clunk is when there is no disc. Its so funny because if you just hit the top of the disc drive when there is no disc in it, it will loosen the Magnet and open the drive.
Quick question: Would a corrosion free solder joint allow more current through and give more bang for the buck than a joint which is corroded (even slightly)? If this is the case then maybe when you removed the corrosion it allowed more amps! through and made the motor perform better. Logically I think this is correct. Continuity shows there is a connection but doesnt show how good it is.
I have the exact same problem on my Xbox 360 original white model. I never play it anymore so I haven’t bothered fixing it, but it’d be nice to get it working again.
There is often a locking mechanism that prevents the dram being opened in order to prevent disk damage. This is usually engaged and disengaged by a solenoid.
This problem is common on all disk drives and easy to fix without taking it apart.... Open the tray and use tweezers and remove the belt and clean it and the pulleys with qtips and put it back in. That is a belt slipping issue -_-
Can be an issue with the design of the fixing mechanism in the case. Usually the toolless designs rely on compressing the drive in the case but the original screw fixing method actuall pulls on the case to grip it, when screwed from both sides it is pulling the drive case apart slightly. Just a thought...
When the belt has an egg shape, that causes the problem, the mechanism loses traction when it reaches the tip of the deformed belt and therefore does not open the lid. It may not be noticeable, but it is enough for the belt to lose contact with the gear shaft.
Fun video =D The belt is the most common cause of this behaviour! XBOX (the old ones) suffer from this big time. The top part does magnetise to the spindle, but it doesnt 'rub' on the hood that encasuplates it - if that makes sense? It kind of floats by 0.5mm or something.
Ohhh, thanks you Chris, I understand now, so the top part is pulled towards the disc spindle but the metal casing stops it just short of the disc spindle so it doesn't cause friction. Thanks mate :-)
Exactly =D On some systems it doesnt quite work as expected though - the PC Engine CD-ROM video I did (the little white one that acts as a standalone CD player) has the same type of thing, but I found with that it was super noisey! Especially when tilting the unit slightly from side to side. On that one I had to add some molykote to stop the friction.
Back in the day (when they cost considerably more!) I had a spare white plastic disk that I used to keep the test CD on the spindle, perfect for troubleshooting... So yeah the white plastic bit spins with the disk. I guess that's the problem with mechanical drives. We are almost there with completely solid state - I couldn't afford to move my Bluray collection to solid state devices just yet!
I'm sure someones pointed this out but IMO, it opens easier with the disk in because the white magnet isn't as strong on the spindle with the disk between it.
Of course the white plastic with magnet spins otherwise it would act as a brake. Take apart a PS2 FAT and you will see how it works. The white plastic and magnet is needed to hold the disk against the drive spindle below and provides grip and prevents it from flying off. It spins freely once it contacts the center of the drive spindle. Other drives like portable CD players use the 3 clip in method for the disks as this is required for a lower profile drive type, for example the PS2 slim uses the clip in method.
I just watched this video from start to finish. It is very informative, although long. It might also be a good watch for the geeks at Best Buy. I took my wife's HP desktop computer into Best Buy in December to fix some issues & also to try to fix the internal LG Blu-ray optical drive. She had accidentally pushed the drawer shut with her hand & now it wouldn't open. I took the drive out and opened it up, cleaned it out, put it back in, but it still wouldn't open. They had the computer for 2 weeks. Their conclusion was that: 1) We should buy a new computer 2) The Blu-ray drive was trash. I brought the computer back home. I was pissed. This was the 2nd time I'd dealt with the Best Buy geek squad. They don't deserve capitalizing their name. The 1st time was with my computer that would not start. The lights flashed when started but the monitor was dark. Their conclusion was that it was probably the motherboard. It would probably cost a couple grand to find a new board. I probably should buy a new computer. It would be a lot less expensive. The problem is that new computers have phased out internal optical drives & their expansion slots. I would have to have an external optical drive. That I didn't want. I took the computer back home frustrated & upset. However, a couple days later I found my exact same computer on ebay, refurbished for $140. I quickly grabbed it up & installed my old computer's hard drives, ram & optical card. It started up like a charm with all my old files. I did wind up, however, purchasing a $200 Total Protection Plan & also a $100 external hard drive to capture & save all my files. Best Buy must have seen me coming. Then hers became sick & the Blu-ray drive wouldn't open, as mentioned . I decided maybe there was something on RUclips to help fix the drive issue. Viola, this video! While I watched the video, I took apart her Blu-ray drive. I again cleaned inside, took off the belt (did not boil it) & oiled the metal motor post. I found that the plastic wheel on the top cover did not have a magnet. The magnet was in the metal thingy it was attracted to. I did one thing that wasn't mentioned in this video. I gently pushed inward the metal top of the cover. I put everything back together. It works perfectly. I will never bring another item to the geek squad at Best Buy. I feel they can fix only very basic things like loose wires or connections. Their main purpose is to up sell customers into buying new Best Buy items. Maybe other Best Buys are different but I wouldn't risk it again. A $300 life lesson. Kudos to Vince & Paul!
2 grand for a new motherboard? They are ripping people off. New mid range boards cost about £50 - £100 and high end ones are not much more than that. This is why I always build my PC's. Buy what I want, plug it all together. NO harder than that, plus I get to have 2 optical drives.
Ive worked on hundreds of disc drives. Its almost gauranteed the belt. You aren't getting enough torque from the motor transferred to the drive gear. The disc being in is just putting the slightest amount of weight on the tray to counter react it. The longer it goes like that the less the discs weight will help it open. If you took your fingernail and lightly pushed down on the front of the tray when you press the button, it will open up. Was INSANELY common on Xbox 360's and mid 2000's dells, and hp's.
The white plastic circle in the top of the metal case has a magnet in it, when you close the tray and the cd spindle rises with the disc on it the magnet snaps down onto the spindle to hold the disc in place while it spins. The spindle lifts the white plastic circle into a position where its just hovering without touching the metal lid or anything other than the disc and spindle. It spins freely with the disc without adding any friction at all. Long story short it's a great design used in almost every tray loading drive so don't worry about it lol The first time I learned about that was on a ps2 disc drive. On those you can easily pop the white circle out of the lid and put it on the spindle/disc to test the drive without the lid on it.
Its 100% the worn belt guys... its a really common fault with disk drives and its easily fixed with a new belt... granted i also relube everything aswell... Remember the days of the VCR... Its always the belts lol... Well done Guys
Hi, the magnet is supose to hold the disk from vibrating, and it spins with the disk because it’s not touching anything cause it sits on the disk itself, don’t know if this makes sense but it sits in the middle of the vertical play it has because of the disk lifting it just a tad... hope it was a good enough explanation 😂👍 see you in the next one 👍
Quite a common issue on LG drives (particularly Blu-Ray players) is that the magnet on the puck (the white spinning assembly at the top of the drive -- yes it spins and yes it has a series of ball-bearings to ensure smooth running) comes away from the plastic housing causing the drive not to read discs at all (as it's the magnet that clamps the two parts together ensuring that the disc spins at the correct rate). Easily fixed, I've done a few of them with superglue. LiteOn drives (of which this is one) use the same arrangement as Sony where the belt needs to be fully torqued in order to lift the laser assembly (and release it). Quite common for it to fail as you've seen here. The boiled belt will likely outlast the burner now. It is a bit of a weak design but it's the result of years of simplification. Early CD players had a range of different methods to lift the laser assembly -- early Sanyos were particularly interesting as they had a separate motor to drag the laser away from the disc before it ejected.
The white bearing on the metal plate probably falls down because its loose when there is not disk and gets stuck onto the disk holder (Refering to black thing). It works with disk because when you put in it pushes it up.
The motor spins the disc that's Des vins that and in the top middle there is just enough gap between metal and plastic that it doesn't touch when it is magnetized to the motor
the drive doesn't rely on weight when you open drawer the mechanism drops down & drawer slids out when you close the motor winds drawer in & engages the mechanism once this has happens the disc motor spins up & laser does its read only routine & if you want to know why the drawer fails to open its dust build up on the rubber belt & or dirt build up on the moving wheel
For me, trouble ejecting is usually almost always the small belt at the front of the drive. I’ve fixed countless disc drives on game consoles, computers etc by popping it off, giving it a clean in warm soapy water and cleaning the wheels with a cotton bud and alcohol while the belt is off. Over time it seems the belt/wheels pick up grease along with aging rubber. Best wishes guys!
Instablaster...
It's nice to see you and your brother working together it's nice to have that bonding time with siblings where there's no arguments or fighting lol.
What a way to start a Sunday morning off!! The set may change, but the fabulous content continues. Cheers!
Thank you mate :-)
As someone who's had these problems over the years, I suspected the drive belt right away. Your diagnostics of the problem, and logically working through every possibility was still fascinating to watch. I've got to give your brother credit for first suggesting the problem at about 39:50 "maybe that belt is slipping". When doing some research on the issue, I came across your suggestion of putting the belt in boiling water. Even ordinary rubber bands are said to work, but with a limited life span.
The "clunk" you hear when it tries to open it, is belt being too loose to break the force of magnet in the top part of drive that holds the DVD while spinning. It has no problem to open with DVD inside because makes magnetic force between top and bottom side of spindle sandwich weaker.
And yes, the top part spins with the bottom part together.
Yes this is the exact right reason for this problem and it is the belt too loose.
exactly.
Yes it is exactly as you said.
i had this exact same issue with a blueray drive (same diagnostic), i tried to fix it with no success, so i leave now a CD in it all time and it work always, but still frustrating to not have found a more elegant solution.
I didn't noticed there was a magnet in this white thing or that the belt/motor could be weak, very interesting, i will definitly test out thoses solutions, thanks for a great video again (love the bro too, good insight and the exchange between the both of you was great)
I've just fixed the same problem with an old DVD drive. Small amount of washing up liquid to clean the belt followed by a soak in some boiling water and it works a treat. Many thanks for the video and to the others for the tip about the small belt. Many thanks, JM-B
How can you make the most uninteresting topic so intriguing and interesting? Loved this video. Thank you so much!
Good stuff. I love how you think out loud about what the issue might be and possible solutions.
I immediately diagnosed the belt to be loose but I'm glad you guys are not just tossing a working component into a dump even tho a optical drive is only 20 bucks to many things are thrown away even tho there perfectly fine
The white plastic with the magnet spins with the disk and keeps the disk in place and does not allow the disk to fly off when spinning.
You will see the same configuration on a FAT PS2 Also. Without the white plastic and magnet there is no pressure onto the rubber
on the drive spindle to drive the disk around either. The white plastic spins freely when gripping the disk and does not contact the lid
when the magnet holds the disk in place.
it essentially floats in to gap between the lip and the top of the case of the drive and from then it spins freely
@@tom13794 Exactly !! the magnet is sometimes on the drive spindle and sometimes built into the plastic disk that spins that can be white or black plastic.
Great video thank you and can tell it's your brother you both really work together brilliantly
9/10 it's the belt. Pick up 10 or 20 for £1 off an auction site. 👌
sorry ! i was shouting at the screen before you even took the drive out ! we could see the belt that needed changing thru the tray opening ! :) the belt stretches over time and loses grip. the top magnet clamps together with the drive spindle to hold the disc and stop it moving around as it spins. the reason it wouldnt open is when shut the 2 magnets clamp together and need to be pulled apart to open the tray, but the belt slips. the reason it opens with a disc in is that the disc keeps the magnets slightly apart, so needs less force to pull them apart to open the try. :)
I guessed that. Because the drive was working fine when I took it out of the case and I knew it was because of the magnet but I didn't think it was because of the belt. Thank you and the owner of the channel
The magnet clamps the disc to the motor spindle so the disc does not slip. It spins along with the drive. but experiences little to no friction as it doesn't touch anything (other than the disc) while running. It is obviously a good design as these drives last many years and rarely if ever fail due to the magnet.
Brill teamwork! Great to see brothers working together! 👍👍
If a belt loses elasticity put them in a bowl of water and microwave it the belt will shrink back to its original size and elasticity
I just realised i've been watching someone repairing a disk drive for the last hour!
I love how you work together with your brother. My brother would only shout at me and complain how stupid I am.
DVD drivers always had these problems!! Great job vince!! 👌
Perfect fix! It opened with the disc in because the disc provides some interference with the magnet so it's less pull on the top piece.
Thanks Jim :-)
Not interference. When the disk is on, there is a slight distance(the thickness of the disk) between the magnet and the spindle, that's why the magnetic attraction is weaker. I think the problem is not the belt, its the extra friction from the wear down parts. Try to remove the gray plastic part and add some grease below it.
I think the magnet has less grip with a DVD in between, therefore easier for the belt to drive the tray out, must be a slightly loose belt.
Great Video, yeah as the majority here say it is the drive belt.
I have that exact same problem on my XBox360 (very first model) DVD Drive. Now I know how to fix it. Thanks to you both! :-)
Will probably be an ms25 or ms28 drive they suffer most in the 360
Id recommend lubrication on the runners / teeth on the under side of the tray aswell
What a coincidence! Just yesterday i fixed my disc drive inspired by your videos haha
The belt is worn that is all. The little extra weight and thickness of the disk helps the laser drop easier, hence it works most times when there's a disk in the drive. This is very common on the xbox 360 drives as someone else said. With the lid off there's no resistance from the magnet so the rubber band has enough friction to open the drive also :)
I've had the top magnetic disc removed from a CD-ROM before while troubleshooting. The reason for that part is to hold the disk firmly against the spindle so it can spin the disk. Essentially, the disk is 'sandwiched" between the magnet above and the spindle below. So yes, the upper magnet does spin right along with the disk. Logic would dictate that since there is no bearing for the upper magnetic/plastic part in the cover that it shouldn't spin. However I'm pretty sure what happens is that the magnet/plastic part is held at just the right height as it spins that it isn't touching the sheet metal of the top case at any point. This allows it to spin freely right along with the disk. Otherwise, you can imagine the resistance/friction it would create against the spinning disk if it didn't also spin. Great video Vince! Keep 'em coming!
Thank Andy :-)
Your brother sounds like he is an interesting man, I hope you do more projects with him.
Thanks, he is very interesting. I think we will do hopefully :-)
Oh, really interesting, I have one with the same exact fault. I didn't actually give it too much importance because I hardly ever use DVD/CD, so whenever I need to use it, I just open it by inserting a paper clip in the small hole under the tray and manually carry out the process. Btw, I do not think inserting a disc changes anything. From what I recall, the drive's laser checks if a disc is inserted everytime the tray is closed. If you pay attention when the device is working, as soon as you close the tray, the laser works shortly (if there is no disc), and then stops. So I don't think there is any sensor or anything too complicated about it.
I think it is a mechanical issue, just like people are saying, it might have to do with grease, the belt, the faceplate bezel. For example, the PS1 used to have a common issue where it had problems reading discs, and once you flipped it upside down, it would read them easily, and the fix for it was as simple as cleaning and appliying new grease to the moving parts of the lens. I mean, other than a blown capacitor, a worn out laser, an issue with the motor or a fault with the logic board, I think it is hard for these devices to have more complicated issues.
Cool stuff as usual Vince.
Lower right hand corner of the faceplate was out of alignment, likely catching against the front bezel. Taking it apart and putting it together likely fixed it...
Weldon Vince and Paul you did it eventually great video as usual
Thank you :-)
The white circular part you were touching with your screwdriver at 36:32 holds the CD in place by magnetic attraction to the motor.
Oh boy, it's the belt. it's cool to know how it works.
@16:37 that's normal because when the tray slides in more it will move over, the gears will grip each other and push the part with the eye up so it grabs the disk and the thing in the top holds the disk down while it spins so it doesn't fly off when the inside of the disk is being read (the disk spins faster at the center and slower on the outside)
I've taken apart a few cd and dvd drives even a portable one so i know how all the parts work inside them
I'm sure it's said countless times already, but that white magnetized bit at the top does spin with the spindle. I've seen it on a open PS3, and the car stereo head unit, i think it's common way these works. It doesn't make any friction as the magnet pulls it onto the top of the spindle in the center of it, where it's free from the edges as the spindle is lined up in a way it's clear. I believe it's just used to put pressure on the disc to keep it on the spindle.
@Vince there is also the method of banging the top of the PC while it is trying to open. Works 97% of the time. No idea why this fails, but the bump on the top of the PC opens it for some reason.
Yes, if you bump it in just a right time when tray motor start bump will help it separate disk motor from magnet.
I use this "method" as procrastinative way to solve a problem delaying a day when I will open a drive and fix damn thing :)
I have the same issue for years on one of my computer's DVD drives. Already opened it and saw nothing special and ended up using always a paper clip if there's no DVD inside.
I think I'll just try and find some rubber belt on aliexpress and try fixing that for good!
That clunk sound is from the spindle and laser tray moving up and down to detach and reattach from the disk
I have same "clunk" problem with one of my old DOS gaming machines. I just use a paper clip, not so good with working on insides on things! When I was a PC technician 20 years ago, it was a grease issue 99% of the time. I have loads of drives spare from a job lot if you need spares or want another project....some of them might very well work, just too pressed for time to check them all. Let me know if you want them FOC :-) You also mention your brother was working with resin...I could sure do with some help on that front, I'm just making a mess....
The top bit with the magnet do indeed spin with the spindle, the tolerance of it's keeper in the lid is wide enough, relying on disc thickness, that it clears both the top and the bottom of the keeper.
Thanks Maria :-)
Thumbs-up to your brother's old school digital watch, and that he seems to work on the floor like you do. :)
I work at a computer repair shop and see this problem all the time
I’m going to enjoy this.
You should make more videos with your brother. You make a great team!
This would have made an excellent live stream
100% it's a combination of the drive belt and the magnet that holds the disc. This is a very common problem with PS2 's and Xbox's. The disc drive isn't able to drop because the magnet is too powerful. If you add two small strips of electrical tape to the magnet it will then work.
the Drive knowing if it has a disk in it or not has nothing to do with weight. the Drive gears open and lowers the laser and when it closes it raises it. one its closed the drive laser checks or a disk or not. well that is my understanding of it. so like others say it can be the belt slipping or the gears slipping.
the round white plastic piece that is inset into the top metal case and sits on top of the disc spindle is a magnet. or it is a piece of metal and the magnet is in the spindle the disc sits on but either way the two pieces are held together magnetically. Sometimes the magnet is too strong and it sticks to the spindle and keeps it from going into the down position when there is no disc in the disc drive. but the space between the two provided by the disc when it is in the drive allows for the two pieces to separate properly when the eject button is pushed. I had this problem with an original xbox and a 360 disc drive and all I did was keep a disc in it and I never had a problem again, unless I closed it without a disc inside. Don't know if this helps for you but it worked for me.
When you hit the eject button the tray is hitting on the spindle because it is stuck to the magnet which is being held in the up position so it won't open and that is the click you are hearing.
An easier way to open a dusty disc drive is to push in on the tray shortly after pressing the button, it should pop open. Also when a drive doesn’t open like this all you have to do is to open the tray, pull the little belt out, and then clean the belt and the pulleys it was on. The disc drive should then work fine for many more years.
54 seconds into the video: I had the same problem, it seems to happen a lot with the LG dvd drives. The belt that pulls the tray out was the problem. I gave a good clean to the belt, motor pulley and tray pulley and now it works fine. Now let's see if I was right.
Edit: to take off the faceplate you need to pull out the tray using the paper clip tool.
yep or you have to pull it In direction upwards cause it is only clicked in
theres a seal on the front backside of the tray that slides out. should check to see if its sticky.
The whole thing spins with the disc. That top plastic part is just to keep some pressure on the disc so it doesnt slip when it spins up and down
It's the belt the magnet in the lid clamps the disc to the spindle and with the disc in it's easier for the belt to pull the two magnets apart. With no disc the magnets are closer together and need a greater force to separate them hence the belts weak.
Perfect, thank you :-)
Your persistence deserves some kind of award, but probably not from DVD manufacturers who've just lost a sale. :D
Tried to fix my parents old-school standalone TV DVD player last week, it was so old it used IDE cables inside the box. I donated a new one to them in the end.
26:10 .... I think I have the answer. It drove me crazy, broke several units as well. The spindle or the cap on the top are MAGNETIC. They sanwich the CD and self center it using nothing but magnetic force. When opening, motor is not only fighting the tray mechanism but also trying to LOW the CD caddle and to do that it needs to unstick the two spindle pieces (on on the transport, one on the case. Now, with a CD, this magnetic force within the "sanwiched" spindle parts is lower and does the unsticking job more easy .... Find out it after broking several units ... LOL. Sometimes a better belt does the trick. Sometimes the plastic guides that for the mechanismo up and down are a bit worn, greasing can help this a bit. I havent been lucky with this ones =(
I have found before that if you bend the top case out a little from the centre works.
On some drives such as those on the older XBOX 360 it's possible to take that belt off for a clean just by opening the tray. No need to take anything apart. A slippy belt was a common fault on those units.
Very interesting - you've gotten further than I ever did taking apart optical drives. I had one case where I'd experience severe imbalance but pushing on the tray would often calm it down, and wouldn't mind getting this fixed. I suspect it might be the mechanism not getting lifted up all the way due to a sloppy belt, but I have no idea how the auto-balancing is supposed to work either.
I would love to be able to fix things like this, drives that stop accepting CDs or any discs at all for no good reason (usually not a lot of use) are bad enough - I suspect bad caps or lasers / semiconductors in those cases, and then you're better off going out buying another. Quality of optical drives has become pretty crap though, as it was for floppy drives 15 years ago. I'd rather salvage an otherwise decent drive if it's only a minor problem.
I have a disc drive that is doing the same thing, and its the belt being worn and not being tight enough to loosen the magnetic disc holder which is what the clunk is when there is no disc. Its so funny because if you just hit the top of the disc drive when there is no disc in it, it will loosen the Magnet and open the drive.
Thanks for your helping videos
#Help
Do you have a fix for xbox one x not work and the problem I think is a the chip ?
It could be a number of things and not just one
You need to open it and find out :)
I have the exact issue hope i can do this!
I knew it was the belt right away. Those things stretch out over time. You should know that from your Walkman videos.
Wow I haven’t had a disc drive on my pc for years! Retro.
Brilliant double act, but didn't understand the obsession with making it work upside down 😆
Quick question:
Would a corrosion free solder joint allow more current through and give more bang for the buck than a joint which is corroded (even slightly)? If this is the case then maybe when you removed the corrosion it allowed more amps! through and made the motor perform better. Logically I think this is correct. Continuity shows there is a connection but doesnt show how good it is.
Possibly, that does make sense to me :-)
Wow thanks so now I can fix my DVD player wasn't spinning or reading no disc 😂👍👊
I have the exact same problem on my Xbox 360 original white model. I never play it anymore so I haven’t bothered fixing it, but it’d be nice to get it working again.
me too
Remove the belt and soak it in hot water I did it to mine now it works properly
There is often a locking mechanism that prevents the dram being opened in order to prevent disk damage. This is usually engaged and disengaged by a solenoid.
Sorry meant draw not dram
I had this problem with my DVD RW, I clean the belt and pulley with IPA and it worked fine afterwards.
yes,anytime i had a stuck drive i cleaned the belt with dish soap and used a paper towel to dry it and it fixed it
Nice video, when we get a new house fixs video? Also would like some PSP or Vita fixes. Keep up with the great video's! Always waiting for more 👌
This problem is common on all disk drives and easy to fix without taking it apart.... Open the tray and use tweezers and remove the belt and clean it and the pulleys with qtips and put it back in. That is a belt slipping issue -_-
Can be an issue with the design of the fixing mechanism in the case. Usually the toolless designs rely on compressing the drive in the case but the original screw fixing method actuall pulls on the case to grip it, when screwed from both sides it is pulling the drive case apart slightly. Just a thought...
When the belt has an egg shape, that causes the problem, the mechanism loses traction when it reaches the tip of the deformed belt and therefore does not open the lid.
It may not be noticeable, but it is enough for the belt to lose contact with the gear shaft.
I can't wait for the next PS3 video.
Fun video =D The belt is the most common cause of this behaviour! XBOX (the old ones) suffer from this big time. The top part does magnetise to the spindle, but it doesnt 'rub' on the hood that encasuplates it - if that makes sense? It kind of floats by 0.5mm or something.
Ohhh, thanks you Chris, I understand now, so the top part is pulled towards the disc spindle but the metal casing stops it just short of the disc spindle so it doesn't cause friction. Thanks mate :-)
Exactly =D On some systems it doesnt quite work as expected though - the PC Engine CD-ROM video I did (the little white one that acts as a standalone CD player) has the same type of thing, but I found with that it was super noisey! Especially when tilting the unit slightly from side to side. On that one I had to add some molykote to stop the friction.
Yup, the top part clamps the disc down, pretty much floating in its holder, not creating any friction at all.
GadgetUK164 I had this problem with my old xbox 360 and ended up replacing it with a rubber band from my sisters elastic bracelet kit lol! :)
@@exponent5290 LOL =D
Back in the day (when they cost considerably more!) I had a spare white plastic disk that I used to keep the test CD on the spindle, perfect for troubleshooting... So yeah the white plastic bit spins with the disk. I guess that's the problem with mechanical drives. We are almost there with completely solid state - I couldn't afford to move my Bluray collection to solid state devices just yet!
Great video Vince as always! PS, is your brother Henning Wehn?
I'm sure someones pointed this out but IMO, it opens easier with the disk in because the white magnet isn't as strong on the spindle with the disk between it.
The magnetic disc is purely stationary. It doesn't move at all. It just holds the disc in place to prevent the disc from wobbling during spin.
Of course the white plastic with magnet spins otherwise it would act as a brake.
Take apart a PS2 FAT and you will see how it works. The white plastic and magnet is needed to hold the disk
against the drive spindle below and provides grip and prevents it from flying off. It spins freely once it contacts the center of the drive spindle.
Other drives like portable CD players use the 3 clip in method for the disks
as this is required for a lower profile drive type, for example the PS2 slim uses the clip in method.
I just watched this video from start to finish. It is very informative, although long. It might also be a good watch for the geeks at Best Buy. I took my wife's HP desktop computer into Best Buy in December to fix some issues & also to try to fix the internal LG Blu-ray optical drive. She had accidentally pushed the drawer shut with her hand & now it wouldn't open. I took the drive out and opened it up, cleaned it out, put it back in, but it still wouldn't open. They had the computer for 2 weeks. Their conclusion was that: 1) We should buy a new computer 2) The Blu-ray drive was trash. I brought the computer back home. I was pissed. This was the 2nd time I'd dealt with the Best Buy geek squad. They don't deserve capitalizing their name. The 1st time was with my computer that would not start. The lights flashed when started but the monitor was dark. Their conclusion was that it was probably the motherboard. It would probably cost a couple grand to find a new board. I probably should buy a new computer. It would be a lot less expensive. The problem is that new computers have phased out internal optical drives & their expansion slots. I would have to have an external optical drive. That I didn't want. I took the computer back home frustrated & upset. However, a couple days later I found my exact same computer on ebay, refurbished for $140. I quickly grabbed it up & installed my old computer's hard drives, ram & optical card. It started up like a charm with all my old files. I did wind up, however, purchasing a $200 Total Protection Plan & also a $100 external hard drive to capture & save all my files. Best Buy must have seen me coming. Then hers became sick & the Blu-ray drive wouldn't open, as mentioned . I decided maybe there was something on RUclips to help fix the drive issue. Viola, this video! While I watched the video, I took apart her Blu-ray drive. I again cleaned inside, took off the belt (did not boil it) & oiled the metal motor post. I found that the plastic wheel on the top cover did not have a magnet. The magnet was in the metal thingy it was attracted to. I did one thing that wasn't mentioned in this video. I gently pushed inward the metal top of the cover. I put everything back together. It works perfectly. I will never bring another item to the geek squad at Best Buy. I feel they can fix only very basic things like loose wires or connections. Their main purpose is to up sell customers into buying new Best Buy items. Maybe other Best Buys are different but I wouldn't risk it again. A $300 life lesson. Kudos to Vince & Paul!
2 grand for a new motherboard? They are ripping people off.
New mid range boards cost about £50 - £100 and high end ones are not much more than that.
This is why I always build my PC's. Buy what I want, plug it all together. NO harder than that, plus I get to have 2 optical drives.
Ive worked on hundreds of disc drives. Its almost gauranteed the belt. You aren't getting enough torque from the motor transferred to the drive gear. The disc being in is just putting the slightest amount of weight on the tray to counter react it. The longer it goes like that the less the discs weight will help it open. If you took your fingernail and lightly pushed down on the front of the tray when you press the button, it will open up. Was INSANELY common on Xbox 360's and mid 2000's dells, and hp's.
The white plastic circle in the top of the metal case has a magnet in it, when you close the tray and the cd spindle rises with the disc on it the magnet snaps down onto the spindle to hold the disc in place while it spins. The spindle lifts the white plastic circle into a position where its just hovering without touching the metal lid or anything other than the disc and spindle. It spins freely with the disc without adding any friction at all. Long story short it's a great design used in almost every tray loading drive so don't worry about it lol The first time I learned about that was on a ps2 disc drive. On those you can easily pop the white circle out of the lid and put it on the spindle/disc to test the drive without the lid on it.
Excellent explanation, thank you :-)
@@Mymatevince Thanks, no problem.
Did you oil the slides?
Its 100% the worn belt guys... its a really common fault with disk drives and its easily fixed with a new belt... granted i also relube everything aswell... Remember the days of the VCR... Its always the belts lol... Well done Guys
Thank you :-)
@@Mymatevince No worries, your very welcome... I'll help in any way i can
Sounds like me and my brother troubleshooting things lol
Thought you were going to quote a classic two Ronnie’s line at the end there 😂
Spindle case might be bend or motor
I've yet to find a drive that doesn't get stuck, It's usually the mech not dropping down far enough, The top part floats after the mech comes up
Mine stopped reading discs some time ago.
Hi, the magnet is supose to hold the disk from vibrating, and it spins with the disk because it’s not touching anything cause it sits on the disk itself, don’t know if this makes sense but it sits in the middle of the vertical play it has because of the disk lifting it just a tad... hope it was a good enough explanation 😂👍 see you in the next one 👍
the little drive belt is loose which causes the draw to stick under load
100 percent belt problem 👍
A strange fault indeed. The slight weight of the disc must have been applying just enough tension to that belt?
Yes the whole spins around because the top peace stabilizes the disc and the bottom part
Thank you :-)
@@Mymatevince you're welcome:-)
Yup, I currently have 2 DVD drives with the same problem.
Common issue. I had that problem years ago.
Open cd draw first. Slide or unclip drawer front panel. Then close cd drive. Then remove drive and it's easy to take front off
Quite a common issue on LG drives (particularly Blu-Ray players) is that the magnet on the puck (the white spinning assembly at the top of the drive -- yes it spins and yes it has a series of ball-bearings to ensure smooth running) comes away from the plastic housing causing the drive not to read discs at all (as it's the magnet that clamps the two parts together ensuring that the disc spins at the correct rate). Easily fixed, I've done a few of them with superglue.
LiteOn drives (of which this is one) use the same arrangement as Sony where the belt needs to be fully torqued in order to lift the laser assembly (and release it). Quite common for it to fail as you've seen here. The boiled belt will likely outlast the burner now.
It is a bit of a weak design but it's the result of years of simplification. Early CD players had a range of different methods to lift the laser assembly -- early Sanyos were particularly interesting as they had a separate motor to drag the laser away from the disc before it ejected.
The white bearing on the metal plate probably falls down because its loose when there is not disk and gets stuck onto the disk holder (Refering to black thing). It works with disk because when you put in it pushes it up.
The motor spins the disc that's Des vins that and in the top middle there is just enough gap between metal and plastic that it doesn't touch when it is magnetized to the motor
the drive doesn't rely on weight when you open drawer the mechanism drops down & drawer slids out when you close the motor winds drawer in & engages the mechanism once this has happens the disc motor spins up & laser does its read only routine & if you want to know why the drawer fails to open its dust build up on the rubber belt & or dirt build up on the moving wheel