I once worked for a USA-based manufacturer. We worked with an organization that provided work for developmentally disabled people to do work like bundle wire harnesses together and put stickers on things. They put the stickers on perfectly straight.
I work in the IDD social services field and there are several places that some of my individuals work for that do that type of work for third parties. Alot of sticker application to products and/or their packaging. It's a fantastic organization.
I worked for a fab shop that hired a young bloke who had something built a bit differently it wasn't Asperger's but along those lines but he could see square and flat and level better than most could measure it and from a glance It was the wrong shop for him the boss didn't have the temper to deal with him when the employment support company came to pick him up a spoke with his career explained just how good his specific skill set was last I heard he was working with a concrete company checking concrete slabs with the big boss all-day
Free advice if you want greater precision and want to avoid shavings being pushed under the blade... yes "under the blade"!!! In the original, the bracket that presses the blade to the drum... this bracket is made of sheet metal, and has two small teeth that grab into the groove of the blade. This means that the blade is supported only at two points and not along the entire length of the blade, as it seems at first!!! For this, the blade bends under load and allows shavings to be pushed under the blade. Makita knows about this problem, but the sheet metal is cheap and makes a cheap product.... However, Makita offers an upgrade with a set of milled steel brackets (+ two spare blades)... and these brackets have an edge that presses into the groove of the blades along the entire length. The set is called Makita D-07951 and at first it looks like a set of two carbide blades with two HSS blades, but this is not the case...many sellers do not know this and sell it as a set of HSS blades, but in reality they are "better milled steel brackets". The set is cheap, and I absolutely recommend it. Greetings from Slovenia ;)
You get a “F” of a lot of work out of these little D I Y planers if you don’t abuse them, medium cuts and let it cool down now and again ! I have had a pair of little A E G planers for twenty years, they work fine. People throw them out because they need new belts and can’t find them, cutting at max will burn the belts.
Had some linoleum flooring swapped for some composite wooden flooring. The carpenter left the threshold/sill area of two doors without flooring "because the new floor was too thick compared to the old linoleum". I asked if he couldn't plane the floorboards down so they fit. Nope, that was absolutely impossible. So after he finally left I planed them down with a handheld tool just like that Makita - difference being I inherited this one from my father. Cut and glued to the sill it looks amazing and I get to think about my father every time I look at it.
That reminds me of an episode with an old corded Makita belt sander (4x24). The guy installing the flooring burned out his Ryobi (I think) 3x20 job. Seeing as how he was going to hold the job up until he got a replacement, I loaned him the Makita. Guy uses the trigger lock and then plugs the thing in. Sander sails away from him and goes right through the sheetrock. That old Makita is a beast and has a 12 ft. rubber (not PVC) cord, so it wasn't going to stop until it hit something really solid...
I got one from my father also, never used it and never will use any power plane, my dad shredded half his thumb and 2 fingers in less than a second with one of these things, I'll stick to a good old fashioned plane lol
when tungsten carbide with cobalt binder gets to somewhere in the range of (from memory) 600-800degC, the cobalt expands faster than the carbide, and can initiate failure points. Modern oil industry drill bits (Polycrystalline Diamond Compact, or PDC) have the cobalt leached from their diamond coated tungsten carbide cutters to improve longevity. These things can literally drill miles of rock without significant wear - if they're run with minimal bumblefuckery.
@@zachv1942 Probably, but you're undoubtedly multiplying the cost of the cutter by an insane amount. That, and in most milling/ turning operations you NEVER get that hot unless something goes REALLY wrong, or it's a specific flavor of alloy that's harder than a coffin nail. In which case, you just go ceramic or something instead.
@@zachv1942 rock only - they are for drilling oil and gas wells. Common sizes are 17.5in, 12.25in, 8.5in, 6.125", 6in, and 5.875in. Other sizes are also used, but you get the point.
My late Father passes down his Japanese made planer to me, ‘92 vintage. He was only a homegamer though. Also got a British made Black and Decker orbital sander too.
ya i agree they were the best on the market back in the day every "wood elf" i knew myself included used them i would still have mine had it not fallen victim to a fire we always blew them out real good with the air hose after use
Yep. Had one since the mid-noughties. Still works like new and I am a tradesman. Bought a beefier planer in the meantime but it wasn't as nice to use and is a distant memory now. I still have a Makita hobbyist's router bought in the late '80s. It only has a ¼" collet but it's my first choice whenever the job allows. I've found that many different brands of blade fit the planer. Some vary in length by a couple of mm but I don't really use it for rebating so that's not a problem. All other tradesmen who've borrowed it have loved it too. I had no idea they had endured so long.
I live a couple miles from the Buford, GA Makita facility. Perhaps the issue is there are two bars directly across the street from the plant entrance and your unit was made after the 4 beer lunch and that impacted the straightification of the labels. Also wouldn't the unit stand much better of a chance of not being suffocated with the dust deflector and dust collection being used?
I used one of these Makita power planers for years. Loosen the 3 bolts SLIGHTLY and slide the blade out the side. No need to totally dissemble the clamps to change the blades. You're welcome
@@bobbygetsbanned6049 Could do a double whammo on that, like, crack the tool open brand new, close it back up, and if it still works give it something to chew at, and then crack it open one last time to see how it looks like after the fact. then forget it on the table because it's definitely not coming back together a second time.
Your video reminded me of my technical school days in my industrial electricity class. We were right across the hall from the metal fab lab and they would bring us grinders to fix that they burned up. My instructor told us a funny bit of advise. He said if you are ever running an electrical appliance, never say you burned it up. It has developed an open circuit is the proper response.
I had one just like that one you have... worked great until I found that hidden screw in the wood. After finding the screw, it developed a really neat operating bonus. It would leave a raised line about 1/2" from the edge of the cutter blade, you could use that line to see how straight you were making your passes. Plus, if you made the cut from left to right it would magically remove the line and then make a new one 3.5" further in...
Have 1 in my garage for 25 or so years. Made in Japan. Stickers on straight. For 24 years I have wondered what that funny little wrench was in my box but knew I dare not throw it out. Know I know. Thank you Sir.
I've had one of those for years. I attached a filter mesh to the vents to catch the majority of the dust. I've had it apart a few times over the years and it has worked like a champ. Tool stays cool and wood carcass stays out. Little sad to see that 2 decades later Team Teal still hasn't figured out that 5 cent improvement. That said, Mine has the older steel blades and honestly I prefer those. Sure the carbide last longer technically, but I can sharpen mine and I've honestly been on the same set of blades for years. That said a nail is death for them and probably death for the carbide as well.
@Karl with a K Hate to rain on your cheap parade but you aren't saving anything because your numbers are nonsense. I don't have to repair it multiple times a year, actually I've never had to repair it period. I've popped it apart on average once every three years to blow the dust out and that's it. I've had the same tool since the 90's. Only thing I've actually replaced are blades which take a whopping 2 minutes to replace. Now don't get me wrong, if you prefer buying the cheap version because If something goes wrong you would rather toss and replace, then you do you. I'm just calling your "I'm saving $7000 per year" statement bullshit. You choosing the disposable route because you have decided it is more convenient for you, not because it is saving any actual money.
Assembled in the USA, means made in China, Heche et China, but the box, bag and putting the stickers on was done by some workers, paid even less than the river company serfs, and then the box, printed in India, was then legally allowed to be marked as USA assembled.
@@Fekillix Because of NAFTA they could also be assembled in Mexico as well, cheaper labour, and then sold in the USA as "assembled in USA", when no part of the operation occurred in the USA itself physically, other than the moving of boxes in containers to warehouses. It takes very little to get that label, only 30% of the cost of production, so they class the labels, the booklet, the plastic bag and the box, despite none of them being made in the USA, as being part of that content. Simply because they were put together on the US continent.
@@sparks869 I know. I just commented that I have other Makita tools that say "Made in USA", which is pretty interesting, because basically no other power tool company does that.
I don't know much about the provenance of wood butchery tools but I can guarantee you the first man that held the original prototype electronical planer in his hand and flipped the on switch did so after losing a bet. Utterly terrifying tools.
I had that happen on a belt sander. Machined a new aluminum housing and epoxied it in. Tool runs fine but I'm mindful to not push it more than a few mins at a time.
For large surfaces, after the first pass, run the tool at a 45° indexing the front shoe on the adjacent higher surface and the rear shoe on the previous pass.
We use this tool on site almost every day. It works really well and gets the job done. You’ll cut through the dam coord way before anything will break on it. Only time it did break was when it hit a nail but it’s easy enough to get parts and fix. Mainly use the 18v battery version now though . Don’t have to mess around finding power, and tangling or cutting the coord
put your cord over your shoulder with all corded tools then you will never trip over or cut your cord as it is behind you out of the way never cut a single cord in 40+ years as i learned that in the cabinet shop before venturing into contracting
@Karl with a K The much cheaper Ryobi has the benefit of a round ejection port and some attachments for scrap collection, a valuable bit that saves cleanup time.
My father has one of these. Had it for over 10 years. Surprisingly tough tool and he used it for contractor work. Excellent tool for midrange work. Only failure was the power cord, the tool ate it. If your plowing river tables than a heavier duty version is a good thing. Otherwise this is a solid tool.
These things are made to cut the humps out of warped studs you've already installed so the drywall doesn't bulge. They are not made to flatten large slabs.
I have an old Japanese made Makita planer obviously 240v for Aus, it only gets used occasionally but it is an 80s model so around 40 years old and still works great.
In my shop we have used those planers for 15+ years, I have only had to replace one of them. We just use them for scribing panels for cabinetry installs, so not much use on wet wood.
I have the same tool from the late 80s early 90s in the plastic clamshell case; they haven't changed much. It was my grandfather's and barely used. Still working.
Used that Makita(though made in Japan) commercially/daily for over 10 years and it never let me down. It saw 20-30 minutes of use per day on average. It was retired after 10 years because a bearing failed. An "upgrade" to a Ridgid, then Dewalt and then Milwaukee went full circle back to the same Makita as the others all sucked. The bearing was replaced on the original one from the mid 90's and now collects dust in the bottom a tool drawer. Why the Makita is the best: lightest, smoothest and easiest to maneuver.
I got myself one of these in bright orange from a brand I’ve still never heard of for about £25 15 years ago and it stubbornly refuses to die no matter how much abuse I give it
It’s Worx, apparently rather more popular in the us than over here, and apparently more well known for lawnmowers? thanks to google for telling me all of the above
@@TomSedgman oh wow, always figured Worx was a terrible junk brand. Good to know. Course they've had 15 years to "optimize" the lifetime of their devices for market purposes. May not hold up as well these days.
If I could choose my family you would be the Uncle to my children, you're a gentleman, a scholar, hilarious and taught me a new version of English that has my co-workers looking at me in confusion
Hi all, ive had the Bosch version of this for bout twenty years, always use it with dust collection. No mess in customers house when shaving doors to fit and no shavings worth mentioning inside the unit. Not a daily tool but sometimes its just perfect.
I got the Bosch timber planer as well from someone that didn't want it any more, can't argue with free even if it will try to nip a finger off Still got no real fucking idea what its for but boy oh boy, does it make perfectly good bits of wood into bags of sawdust
that's what i have atm it is not a bad little machine for occasional use i like the collection bag that goes on either side got it when i was working in apartment buildings a few years back really good at collecting the shavings
I have had mine for about 20 years. Never had a problem. I have probably fitted at least a 100 doors in that time. And used it all the time remodeling four houses. Mine came with a blow molded case and a fence to help you stay on the edge of wood.
Looks like you might have come across the Makita turbo-encabulator router. The original machine has a base-plate of prefabulated amulite, surmounted by a malleable logarithmic casing in such a way that the two spurving bearings were in a direct line with the pentametric fan. The latter consisted simply of six hydrocoptic marzelvanes, so fitted to the ambifacient lunar waneshaft that side fumbling was effectively prevented. The main winding was of the normal lotus-o-delta type placed in panendermic semiboloid slots in the stator, every seventh conductor being connected by a non-reversible tremie pipe to the differential girdlespring on the "up" end of the grammeters. - John Hellins Quick, The turbo-encabulator in industry, Students' Quarterly Journal, Vol. 15, Issue 58, December 1944
I own one, I only used it while building a cabin. If I had to guess I would say it has about 10 hours of use. Worked fine while we used it, I also discovered it is a very good knuckle skin remover. It now just hangs out on a shelf in the shed.
these are one of those tools someone bought ten years ago and used twice, can have a nice makita planer or belt sander off the marketplace for 40$, almost always one there waiting
The condition of ol' UBF's work bench always gives me comfort that I ain't doing everything wrong. I always have time to start another project! (Definitely don't have time to pick up after any of the old projects)
We had a simple AEG PL750 planer, and I melted the bearings through the plastic body of it. Had to plane some 2 by 4s on both sides, probably happened because the day was hot, about 33 C, the plastic tent I was working in was not ventilated and I worked with the planer for about 2-3 hours. I thought I had it on the adequate depth setting, the kind of depth setting that is the next one from when it does not plane anything, but no - The bearings melted through. It still lies in a pile somewhere. We now have a Makita planer, one of the low end ones, that comes in a big plastic case though, probably KP0800. Unfortunatelly, or fortunatelly for Makita, I was not able to test it the same way. It is still running though, the bearings are OK.
Bought one 6 mo ago after research I had done. Appreciate whatever the hell you’re about to say as I haven’t watched yet. Thank you for your engineered poetry.
Man, you know times is hard when AvE starts a-boltrin' tools made fer fondlin' the wood carcasses. God bless you sir for never failing to call out a lazy Chief Sticker Applicator. How fuckin' hard is it to put a sticker on straight? "polishin' their slicks' buddy that's most of the time spent in a geezeless wood shop! It's not a squench unless and until it's got the gorram screwdriver bit plust the wrench bit.
Burned one of those makita things up in about 5 to 10 minutes in oak at 3mm or whatever the full depth is this thing can cut. Motor just overheated and burned up. Luckily it wasn't mine.. sadly I had to buy a new one because I had to give it back. My bosch one didn't complain about such workloads but it had a broken belt that day. It also has one of those non-slippy teeth belts.
The astute among you will have noticed that the surmounting of pre-famulated ammulite was a huge boon with the invention of the turbo encabulator, in which the major step forward prevented side fumbling because of the dual sicoptic marzlevaynes.
The obvious design flaw here is that its air intake is where it exhausts the chips! Built to fail is the only score I give it there. Personally would have designed it with an air filter, perhaps a fancy DRM free user replaceable one.
had a early 70's craftsman , heavy but did good on reasoable square faced wood . but , even with surface planers , you had to level up twists an bows / cups in the wood . great vid , thanks
Decades ago, an acquaintance of an acquaintance told me that he asked the other guy how he lost the tip of his finger, and was told it was via a power planer. Until this vid at 5:08 I couldn't finger out how it could have happened. Probably monkeyed with the blade with his finger on the trigger and the unit still plugged-in.
My father cut the end off his ring finger so far that the whole nail was gone and the hospital cut the bone back a little and my father washed it in peroxide every day and put some sea weed stuff that looks like fibreglass on it and his finger grew back including the nail which was amazing but it was really flexible because of the missing bone
I remember plugging in my first Dremel. I had it sitting on my lap and of course it was switched on and whirred into life, binding up my pants. If that had been a planer I might not have a dick left to put in a vice.
I have the exact same planer and used it to drop 1500 SF of joists down 2" :-) In regards to stalling the planer, if you accidentally hit the front adjustment deck during an overzealous stroke it will push the deck back into the blades/drum and will stall. It will also take a small chunk of the adjustment deck where the blades crash into it, but it still works fine. The carbide blades are nice but very brittle when you hit nails or any metal, so I found grabbing a couple packs of the HSS blades and resharpening rotation is the best option for what I was doing; I used one of those cheaper two-sided metal bars with embedded diamond to sharpen, it takes a while to teach yourself how to sharpen freehand but I believe they make jigs specifically for them.
Bought one at a used tool store a few years back to clean up a stack of really rough previously enjoyed lumber. Gave her a hot supper for a few days & she didn't bark back at me. The blades sustained only one chip in spite of having hit many nails. When I was done with that project, I just flipped them around & haven't had to get a new set yet. Since then I've used it to trim doors to fitting width several times (fucking game changer) & nothing else. I'm certain I exceeded the specifications for "intended use" of this tool & haven't had to file a T4011 on it. For $60 I can't complain.
I have one of these and could NEVER get the fucker to cut parallel. One side always grooved badly no matter how carefully I set it up. It also sucks shit for reasonably accurate jointing an edge. I can confirm that the blades are skookum though. I accidentially grazed it across a machinist vice and it planed off a nice smooth thin shaving of goddamn cast iron.
I own 3 18v versions, look pretty much the same. Over past 4 years only one had an issue, but by the time the replacement arrived, it started working again, and still does. I use mine daily at work, mostly on plastic and thin aluminium while installing windows.
Just wanted to share about the one I inherited from my dad. It does not have the blades yours has. When I first tried using it, there was rust and pitting on the blades. I pulled them out and sharpened (each blade is one piece locked under the clamp). I got most of the pitting off. Enough so it does work, albeit some sanding is needed afterwards. Still, it does a nice job. Mine is evidently made in Japan. The badge is riveted on, not a sticker. It is in a molded case with all the accessories. My dad probably got it in the late 80s or early 90s. Now that I've seen your video, I may try to do a more thorough cleaning. It is a nice tool; much easier to use than a hand plane (of which I also inherited several). Thanks for your videos.
Listen I am no Juggalo and I have never meant one that didn't eventually become a raging acholic, meth user or someone that keeps their dogs tied to a tree 24/7. With that said when ICP sang the infamous "Fucking magnets! How do they work?!" most people that busted their balls over it didn't know either. I superficially know how magnets work, but I can't tell you the physics behind how magnets work.
I worked as a Makita tech in the 90s, the old 1900B with the riveted name plate was more heavily built so I only saw them if the owner was smart enough to bring it in for bearings as soon as they got noisy. The routers were worse, I had a few come in where the ball bearings seized, spun and melted the housing so we scrapped the tool. Had the owner caught it right away it was relatively cheap repair to replace the bearings
Ave, If your kids ever pick up on your unique grammar usage, they will be the most popular kids in school to the other students, and spend a lot of time in the principals office… Lol
Been using mine in the field for 30 years. Other than eating the cord off it, it's been good for rough work. Those insert cutters are a nice upgrade (the old carbide knives were brazed to steel blanks).
I have sold my soul to Makita because of the quality (and the fact that one of the European manufacturing plants is 15 miles from home) Service, from the tool dealers opposite the factory, is exceptional but even they warned me not to buy Makita with a made in USA tag because the quality wasn't good. All of my kit has made in Europe or (the real, pure stuff) made in Japan. I like their tools and, having invested in batteries, won't be switching brands any time soon (too lazy to lug more than one charger around) but am happy to admit that other manufacturers/brands also build great kit.
I own a battery brushed one since last winter, I've used it on mdf mouldings, doors and rough slabs of wood and the trick is to use a leaf blower once in awhile to clean it.
Coming from FL USA, where quality work is exceedingly difficult to find, instead of blaming the stickers on bad management, I'm going to blame it on lack of quality workers and management having to hire from the bottom of the barrel just to get a body with a pulse to do the work.
@@martyk1156 Sometimes the higher ups will not budge and the managers are helpless. The company I work for has announced no more hiring in the USA, despite our senior staff leaving and managers asking to hire more people. So now some of the managers are leaving too. The problems often come from the top.
@@8180634 my belief has always been as a manager your job is to make it work between what the employee wants and the owner wants. Owners higher managers because they don't have the ability to do that job themselves. Explain to them what is happening and how they are running themselves out of business due to poor production and if they are smart they will listen if not then you are working on the titanic.
I picked one of these up 2 years ago. I do home repair and remodeling. I always keep it in the truck. If I take my shoes off I can count the number of times I've used it. But damn when I needed it I was certainly glad to have it.
I have one of these that is probably 30 years old. Got f for five bucks at a yard sale from a retired carpenter/set designer/roadie. It was well used and seized up. A couple of bearings, a new belt, blades, and brushes and it works good as new. Up until recently, I was a profession wood butcher, and my planer mostly got used for leveling floor joists and such. Not an easy life, and it still works fine.
Are you making one of those epoxy river tables?
If I just wait 6 months I'll be able to get em for free at the local dump.
@@arduinoversusevil2025 😁😁
@@arduinoversusevil2025 HAH!!!
@@arduinoversusevil2025 HA HA HA!!! Yeah that's about right too.
@@Erik_The_Viking can you explain the joke?
I once worked for a USA-based manufacturer. We worked with an organization that provided work for developmentally disabled people to do work like bundle wire harnesses together and put stickers on things. They put the stickers on perfectly straight.
I imagine they did everything flawlessly
It really is like a super power at times.
I work in the IDD social services field and there are several places that some of my individuals work for that do that type of work for third parties. Alot of sticker application to products and/or their packaging. It's a fantastic organization.
Seems no one's more disabled than a perfectly able-bodied person these days....
I worked for a fab shop that hired a young bloke who had something built a bit differently it wasn't Asperger's but along those lines
but he could see square and flat and level better than most could measure it
and from a glance
It was the wrong shop for him the boss didn't have the temper to deal with him when the employment support company came to pick him up a spoke with his career explained just how good his specific skill set was
last I heard he was working with a concrete company checking concrete slabs with the big boss all-day
Free advice if you want greater precision and want to avoid shavings being pushed under the blade... yes "under the blade"!!!
In the original, the bracket that presses the blade to the drum... this bracket is made of sheet metal, and has two small teeth that grab into the groove of the blade. This means that the blade is supported only at two points and not along the entire length of the blade, as it seems at first!!! For this, the blade bends under load and allows shavings to be pushed under the blade.
Makita knows about this problem, but the sheet metal is cheap and makes a cheap product....
However, Makita offers an upgrade with a set of milled steel brackets (+ two spare blades)... and these brackets have an edge that presses into the groove of the blades along the entire length.
The set is called Makita D-07951 and at first it looks like a set of two carbide blades with two HSS blades, but this is not the case...many sellers do not know this and sell it as a set of HSS blades, but in reality they are "better milled steel brackets".
The set is cheap, and I absolutely recommend it. Greetings from Slovenia ;)
Most valuable comment I've read in ages, thank you!
Thank you, I will order one of those.
This is what one can only hope for... An intelligent well spoken reply. Best advice and big thanks!
Thank you, I didn’t know that 👍👍
You get a “F” of a lot of work out of these little D I Y planers if you don’t abuse them, medium cuts and let it cool down now and again ! I have had a pair of little A E G planers for twenty years, they work fine. People throw them out because they need new belts and can’t find them, cutting at max will burn the belts.
Had some linoleum flooring swapped for some composite wooden flooring. The carpenter left the threshold/sill area of two doors without flooring "because the new floor was too thick compared to the old linoleum". I asked if he couldn't plane the floorboards down so they fit. Nope, that was absolutely impossible. So after he finally left I planed them down with a handheld tool just like that Makita - difference being I inherited this one from my father. Cut and glued to the sill it looks amazing and I get to think about my father every time I look at it.
Unless they're metal, the doors could also be planed or cut down.
That reminds me of an episode with an old corded Makita belt sander (4x24). The guy installing the flooring burned out his Ryobi (I think) 3x20 job. Seeing as how he was going to hold the job up until he got a replacement, I loaned him the Makita. Guy uses the trigger lock and then plugs the thing in. Sander sails away from him and goes right through the sheetrock. That old Makita is a beast and has a 12 ft. rubber (not PVC) cord, so it wasn't going to stop until it hit something really solid...
@Hate You After he repaired the damage---I was feeling generous. They laid a lot of ceramic tile and did a good job once they got going.
I got one from my father also, never used it and never will use any power plane, my dad shredded half his thumb and 2 fingers in less than a second with one of these things, I'll stick to a good old fashioned plane lol
@@MDM1992 Ouch, when I plugged in, my dads old, all aluminum body power plane. The pixies, went to ground, through my hand.
when tungsten carbide with cobalt binder gets to somewhere in the range of (from memory) 600-800degC, the cobalt expands faster than the carbide, and can initiate failure points. Modern oil industry drill bits (Polycrystalline Diamond Compact, or PDC) have the cobalt leached from their diamond coated tungsten carbide cutters to improve longevity. These things can literally drill miles of rock without significant wear - if they're run with minimal bumblefuckery.
So can you use em in all applications or is it designed for rock only.
So can you use em in all applications or is it designed for rock only.
@@zachv1942 Probably, but you're undoubtedly multiplying the cost of the cutter by an insane amount. That, and in most milling/ turning operations you NEVER get that hot unless something goes REALLY wrong, or it's a specific flavor of alloy that's harder than a coffin nail. In which case, you just go ceramic or something instead.
So they last about a shift usually then?
@@zachv1942 rock only - they are for drilling oil and gas wells. Common sizes are 17.5in, 12.25in, 8.5in, 6.125", 6in, and 5.875in. Other sizes are also used, but you get the point.
I've had one for over 20 years. Mine was made in J.A. PAN. I was a professional wood elf. Used it mostly around doors to make the drywall sit flat.
My late Father passes down his Japanese made planer to me, ‘92 vintage. He was only a homegamer though. Also got a British made Black and Decker orbital sander too.
ya i agree they were the best on the market back in the day every "wood elf" i knew myself included used them i would still have mine had it not fallen victim to a fire we always blew them out real good with the air hose after use
Yep. Had one since the mid-noughties. Still works like new and I am a tradesman. Bought a beefier planer in the meantime but it wasn't as nice to use and is a distant memory now. I still have a Makita hobbyist's router bought in the late '80s. It only has a ¼" collet but it's my first choice whenever the job allows.
I've found that many different brands of blade fit the planer. Some vary in length by a couple of mm but I don't really use it for rebating so that's not a problem. All other tradesmen who've borrowed it have loved it too.
I had no idea they had endured so long.
@@stegra5960 ya the little routers are great for cutting hinges and anything light duty and you can one hand it all day no problem
I live a couple miles from the Buford, GA Makita facility. Perhaps the issue is there are two bars directly across the street from the plant entrance and your unit was made after the 4 beer lunch and that impacted the straightification of the labels. Also wouldn't the unit stand much better of a chance of not being suffocated with the dust deflector and dust collection being used?
you know in flowery branch theres a wrigleys factory? you can smell it for miles, so minty. i worked there for a while
Probably more that they only pay 10/hr. can make more at mcdonalds my dude
Cool!
The issue is that there are ONLY two bars…. They need more….
@@k.c.c.s.2580 A skilled employee never gets kicked out of both bars at once. Them stickers are too big for the indents!
I used one of these Makita power planers for years. Loosen the 3 bolts SLIGHTLY and slide the blade out the side. No need to totally dissemble the clamps to change the blades. You're welcome
I think he knows that.
@@duaneantor9157 I didn’t know that, thanks
@@duaneantor9157 😂😂😂
Shouldn't have loosened or removed the Phillips (JIS) screws either, fairly sure that is the depth setting.
I keep a light wooden mallet in the case to gently knock the blade loose as well.
You should use 'em before dismantling all the time. Shavings in the fan & drive band area would have gone un-noticed otherwise.
I think so too. You might notice some functional shortcomings which can then be explained by looking inside.
I think he doesn't do it that way so he doesn't gain affinity for a tool that works great of the box but is built like shit, clouding his judgement.
@@bobbygetsbanned6049 Could do a double whammo on that, like, crack the tool open brand new, close it back up, and if it still works give it something to chew at, and then crack it open one last time to see how it looks like after the fact.
then forget it on the table because it's definitely not coming back together a second time.
Who do you think you are? You know who this is right?
Your video reminded me of my technical school days in my industrial electricity class. We were right across the hall from the metal fab lab and they would bring us grinders to fix that they burned up. My instructor told us a funny bit of advise. He said if you are ever running an electrical appliance, never say you burned it up. It has developed an open circuit is the proper response.
I had one just like that one you have... worked great until I found that hidden screw in the wood. After finding the screw, it developed a really neat operating bonus. It would leave a raised line about 1/2" from the edge of the cutter blade, you could use that line to see how straight you were making your passes. Plus, if you made the cut from left to right it would magically remove the line and then make a new one 3.5" further in...
Sounds like a DYI mod, right?
Have 1 in my garage for 25 or so years. Made in Japan. Stickers on straight. For 24 years I have wondered what that funny little wrench was in my box but knew I dare not throw it out. Know I know. Thank you Sir.
I've had one of those for years. I attached a filter mesh to the vents to catch the majority of the dust. I've had it apart a few times over the years and it has worked like a champ. Tool stays cool and wood carcass stays out. Little sad to see that 2 decades later Team Teal still hasn't figured out that 5 cent improvement. That said, Mine has the older steel blades and honestly I prefer those. Sure the carbide last longer technically, but I can sharpen mine and I've honestly been on the same set of blades for years. That said a nail is death for them and probably death for the carbide as well.
@Karl with a K Hate to rain on your cheap parade but you aren't saving anything because your numbers are nonsense. I don't have to repair it multiple times a year, actually I've never had to repair it period. I've popped it apart on average once every three years to blow the dust out and that's it. I've had the same tool since the 90's. Only thing I've actually replaced are blades which take a whopping 2 minutes to replace. Now don't get me wrong, if you prefer buying the cheap version because If something goes wrong you would rather toss and replace, then you do you. I'm just calling your "I'm saving $7000 per year" statement bullshit. You choosing the disposable route because you have decided it is more convenient for you, not because it is saving any actual money.
@Karl with a K guess I'm too poor to understand how 10 minutes of of my time can be worth more than a $150 tool.
Assembled in the USA, means made in China, Heche et China, but the box, bag and putting the stickers on was done by some workers, paid even less than the river company serfs, and then the box, printed in India, was then legally allowed to be marked as USA assembled.
I have several Makita tools that say "Made in USA" and not "Assembled in the USA". Hole hawg and collated screw gun.
@@Fekillix Because of NAFTA they could also be assembled in Mexico as well, cheaper labour, and then sold in the USA as "assembled in USA", when no part of the operation occurred in the USA itself physically, other than the moving of boxes in containers to warehouses. It takes very little to get that label, only 30% of the cost of production, so they class the labels, the booklet, the plastic bag and the box, despite none of them being made in the USA, as being part of that content. Simply because they were put together on the US continent.
@@Fekillix That's fair, but this specific Makita item says "Assembled In USA" on the actual label in the video.
@@sparks869 I know. I just commented that I have other Makita tools that say "Made in USA", which is pretty interesting, because basically no other power tool company does that.
@@Fekillix I mean, for Makita, made in the USA is still “making them in low wage foreign climes”.
I don't know much about the provenance of wood butchery tools but I can guarantee you the first man that held the original prototype electronical planer in his hand and flipped the on switch did so after losing a bet. Utterly terrifying tools.
@@3kainos Handheld angle grinder with a wood carving head.
@@Sawblade02 Ah yes, the Hazard Fraught special! No thanks!
I've seen a hand held planer that was 10" wide,
@@3kainos also a terrifying tool. Router/planer/joiner all fall into the butthole pucker category for me.
Woodworking tools are the screaming banshees of machines, just waiting to bite the hand that feeds it.
The other end bearing housings are the first to go teats up. Blade vibration fatigues the polymer composite, even glass filled 66 nylon.
I had that happen on a belt sander. Machined a new aluminum housing and epoxied it in. Tool runs fine but I'm mindful to not push it more than a few mins at a time.
I'm so glad the Judge let you off... That fancy shirt sure did the job! 😉
Much love, thanks and respect as always.
For large surfaces, after the first pass, run the tool at a 45° indexing the front shoe on the adjacent higher surface and the rear shoe on the previous pass.
Makita never changes - I bought the identical machine in 1982, and its still going strong -
Why fix it if it aint broken
Bought mine in 85 or 86. I wonder if there is an easy way to upgrade to the disposable carbide blades. Guess I ought to look that up.
@@Eminate2121 Nope - It never gets used long enough to overheat - Primarily for fitting doors. Maybe I should, though
@@christopherdahle9985 I bought a conversion kit 10 years ago. check with your local warranty shop -
@@glennworton2494 and converted it onto an angle grinder?
As a woodworker since the 1980’s this tool has long been indispensable
We use this tool on site almost every day. It works really well and gets the job done. You’ll cut through the dam coord way before anything will break on it. Only time it did break was when it hit a nail but it’s easy enough to get parts and fix. Mainly use the 18v battery version now though . Don’t have to mess around finding power, and tangling or cutting the coord
put your cord over your shoulder with all corded tools then you will never trip over or cut your cord as it is behind you out of the way never cut a single cord in 40+ years as i learned that in the cabinet shop before venturing into contracting
@Karl with a K How many threads are you posting this in, mr Ali Express power router salesman?
@Karl with a K The much cheaper Ryobi has the benefit of a round ejection port and some attachments for scrap collection, a valuable bit that saves cleanup time.
My father has one of these. Had it for over 10 years. Surprisingly tough tool and he used it for contractor work. Excellent tool for midrange work. Only failure was the power cord, the tool ate it. If your plowing river tables than a heavier duty version is a good thing. Otherwise this is a solid tool.
These things are made to cut the humps out of warped studs you've already installed so the drywall doesn't bulge. They are not made to flatten large slabs.
Top/side of doors etc etc
We're all waiting for a video of you cleaning your work/storage bench!
Love the channel mate! 👌
I have an old Japanese made Makita planer obviously 240v for Aus, it only gets used occasionally but it is an 80s model so around 40 years old and still works great.
ya well made tool back then if the made in J A Pan model
The way you opened that box was downright civilized.....you are a changed man
In my shop we have used those planers for 15+ years, I have only had to replace one of them. We just use them for scribing panels for cabinetry installs, so not much use on wet wood.
Seeing forgotten projects on your bench makes me feel better about mine.
The script for this reads like an episode of Deadwood set in Canada. I want more.
I'll submit your request to the writing team.
I have the same tool from the late 80s early 90s in the plastic clamshell case; they haven't changed much.
It was my grandfather's and barely used.
Still working.
Used that Makita(though made in Japan) commercially/daily for over 10 years and it never let me down. It saw 20-30 minutes of use per day on average. It was retired after 10 years because a bearing failed. An "upgrade" to a Ridgid, then Dewalt and then Milwaukee went full circle back to the same Makita as the others all sucked. The bearing was replaced on the original one from the mid 90's and now collects dust in the bottom a tool drawer.
Why the Makita is the best: lightest, smoothest and easiest to maneuver.
i agree at least they were the best a few years back i used all of the ones you mentioned above and the Makita was the best by far
@@kirkyorg7654 made in Japan made the difference
Finally a breakdown of a tool I got in my home shop. Only got a dozen hours of runtime, but its held together for me for the few times I've needed it.
So nice of you to save the Holy Jeebis by clearing splinters off his cross before crucifixion
In wood wroking we usually use oven cleaner to remove the "pitch " ( aka wood resins) on our cutters and saw blades
91% Rubbing/Isopropyl Alcohol works well too.
Simple green also
I got myself one of these in bright orange from a brand I’ve still never heard of for about £25 15 years ago and it stubbornly refuses to die no matter how much abuse I give it
Now I want one, looking for an orange knockoff online rtfn.
Was it a WEN?
@@Matt-yv6yu WEN or Chicago Industrial are the only two I can imagine it being. Unless Harbor Freight had some miracle made for them?
It’s Worx, apparently rather more popular in the us than over here, and apparently more well known for lawnmowers?
thanks to google for telling me all of the above
@@TomSedgman oh wow, always figured Worx was a terrible junk brand. Good to know. Course they've had 15 years to "optimize" the lifetime of their devices for market purposes. May not hold up as well these days.
If I could choose my family you would be the Uncle to my children, you're a gentleman, a scholar, hilarious and taught me a new version of English that has my co-workers looking at me in confusion
Hi all, ive had the Bosch version of this for bout twenty years, always use it with dust collection. No mess in customers house when shaving doors to fit and no shavings worth mentioning inside the unit. Not a daily tool but sometimes its just perfect.
I got the Bosch timber planer as well from someone that didn't want it any more, can't argue with free even if it will try to nip a finger off
Still got no real fucking idea what its for but boy oh boy, does it make perfectly good bits of wood into bags of sawdust
that's what i have atm it is not a bad little machine for occasional use i like the collection bag that goes on either side got it when i was working in apartment buildings a few years back really good at collecting the shavings
I have had mine for about 20 years. Never had a problem. I have probably fitted at least a 100 doors in that time. And used it all the time remodeling four houses. Mine came with a blow molded case and a fence to help you stay on the edge of wood.
Looks like you might have come across the Makita turbo-encabulator router.
The original machine has a base-plate of prefabulated amulite, surmounted by a malleable logarithmic casing in such a way that the two spurving bearings were in a direct line with the pentametric fan. The latter consisted simply of six hydrocoptic marzelvanes, so fitted to the ambifacient lunar waneshaft that side fumbling was effectively prevented. The main winding was of the normal lotus-o-delta type placed in panendermic semiboloid slots in the stator, every seventh conductor being connected by a non-reversible tremie pipe to the differential girdlespring on the "up" end of the grammeters.
- John Hellins Quick, The turbo-encabulator in industry, Students' Quarterly Journal, Vol. 15, Issue 58, December 1944
I own one, I only used it while building a cabin. If I had to guess I would say it has about 10 hours of use. Worked fine while we used it, I also discovered it is a very good knuckle skin remover. It now just hangs out on a shelf in the shed.
these are one of those tools someone bought ten years ago and used twice, can have a nice makita planer or belt sander off the marketplace for 40$, almost always one there waiting
Best way to find nails.
The condition of ol' UBF's work bench always gives me comfort that I ain't doing everything wrong. I always have time to start another project!
(Definitely don't have time to pick up after any of the old projects)
Testify brother.
Yup, I'll get to finish rebuilding that outboard engine one of these decades. I have the parts.
@@WeighedWilson bl1xilvhg&lxcesskikyb
My ol’ craftsman hand planer had the same issue.. but than I realized it didn’t have a motor. Works fine now
We had a simple AEG PL750 planer, and I melted the bearings through the plastic body of it. Had to plane some 2 by 4s on both sides, probably happened because the day was hot, about 33 C, the plastic tent I was working in was not ventilated and I worked with the planer for about 2-3 hours. I thought I had it on the adequate depth setting, the kind of depth setting that is the next one from when it does not plane anything, but no - The bearings melted through. It still lies in a pile somewhere.
We now have a Makita planer, one of the low end ones, that comes in a big plastic case though, probably KP0800. Unfortunatelly, or fortunatelly for Makita, I was not able to test it the same way. It is still running though, the bearings are OK.
Bought one 6 mo ago after research I had done. Appreciate whatever the hell you’re about to say as I haven’t watched yet. Thank you for your engineered poetry.
Man, you know times is hard when AvE starts a-boltrin' tools made fer fondlin' the wood carcasses.
God bless you sir for never failing to call out a lazy Chief Sticker Applicator. How fuckin' hard is it to put a sticker on straight?
"polishin' their slicks' buddy that's most of the time spent in a geezeless wood shop!
It's not a squench unless and until it's got the gorram screwdriver bit plust the wrench bit.
I miss the past, I am glad to see this one again!
Burned one of those makita things up in about 5 to 10 minutes in oak at 3mm or whatever the full depth is this thing can cut. Motor just overheated and burned up. Luckily it wasn't mine.. sadly I had to buy a new one because I had to give it back. My bosch one didn't complain about such workloads but it had a broken belt that day. It also has one of those non-slippy teeth belts.
Twat
No matter how hard you resist, the siren call of carbohydrate foam will lure even the most resilient of men to return to her warm splintery embrace.
No mini chainsaw unboxing? Who are you and what have you done with Uncle bumblefuck?
The astute among you will have noticed that the surmounting of pre-famulated ammulite was a huge boon with the invention of the turbo encabulator, in which the major step forward prevented side fumbling because of the dual sicoptic marzlevaynes.
The obvious design flaw here is that its air intake is where it exhausts the chips!
Built to fail is the only score I give it there.
Personally would have designed it with an air filter, perhaps a fancy DRM free user replaceable one.
Yes. This is a problem. But the damn thing just keeps on chugging away, even with that cover jammed full.
had a early 70's craftsman , heavy but did good on reasoable square faced wood . but , even with surface planers , you had to level up twists an bows / cups in the wood . great vid , thanks
I am reasonably certain this review is the plane truth. Keep on keeping on.
How are the new northern neighbors shaping up? Tejas looking mighty appealing...
@@arduinoversusevil2025 I like it.
Great to see another BOLTR. I really missed these! The debugging at the end is useful too. Thank you!
Haven't seen a BOLTR in a tick, and am sad to have not seen a guest appearance of the mini-chainsaw... imma call my congresspersons. :D
Yes, think this is an Ave AI clone... 🤔😜
Justin Trudeau band Mini chainsaws
Own one, a bit older. Planed a pile of wood. Blow it out occasionally. Runs like a top. Keep your fingers clear! Love it.
Decades ago, an acquaintance of an acquaintance told me that he asked the other guy how he lost the tip of his finger, and was told it was via a power planer. Until this vid at 5:08 I couldn't finger out how it could have happened. Probably monkeyed with the blade with his finger on the trigger and the unit still plugged-in.
I planed 1.5mm off the tip of my finger as an apprentice. Grew back thankfully.
My father cut the end off his ring finger so far that the whole nail was gone and the hospital cut the bone back a little and my father washed it in peroxide every day and put some sea weed stuff that looks like fibreglass on it and his finger grew back including the nail which was amazing but it was really flexible because of the missing bone
I remember plugging in my first Dremel. I had it sitting on my lap and of course it was switched on and whirred into life, binding up my pants. If that had been a planer I might not have a dick left to put in a vice.
You truly do have the best unboxing videos on RUclips.
I have it's ancestor which is still going strong. Around 90's vintage I think. Straightened a lot of studs.
I love the way you just hammer the Bollocks out of the tool straight away. Exactly what I do with my tools at work 🇬🇧👍
I miss the mini chainsaw unboxings. And.... TIME!!
I'm a maintenance tech and I wish I had guys like you to work with , you make humor from the oddest things, a scientist of shop talk lol
How many cubits did the Big Man direct you to build that unit to?
And can we exclude mosquitos this go around please?
I have the same one for over 20 years and it still works good...
I have the exact same planer and used it to drop 1500 SF of joists down 2" :-) In regards to stalling the planer, if you accidentally hit the front adjustment deck during an overzealous stroke it will push the deck back into the blades/drum and will stall. It will also take a small chunk of the adjustment deck where the blades crash into it, but it still works fine. The carbide blades are nice but very brittle when you hit nails or any metal, so I found grabbing a couple packs of the HSS blades and resharpening rotation is the best option for what I was doing; I used one of those cheaper two-sided metal bars with embedded diamond to sharpen, it takes a while to teach yourself how to sharpen freehand but I believe they make jigs specifically for them.
I've sharpened my tungsten blades on the rear wheel of my belt sander for 40 years, works real well.
I still have a makita 9.6 drill and a router that actually gets use, not just on the nostalgia shelf.
The things some men do to a dead tree carcass. Sick!
Be careful with that tree carcass someone might mistake you for a wood butcher
Man I love your intros for BOLTR series
Started working with wood? WTF! Never expected this!
He's *Always* worked the wood. He's just now getting adventurous enough to film it.
Bought one at a used tool store a few years back to clean up a stack of really rough previously enjoyed lumber. Gave her a hot supper for a few days & she didn't bark back at me. The blades sustained only one chip in spite of having hit many nails. When I was done with that project, I just flipped them around & haven't had to get a new set yet. Since then I've used it to trim doors to fitting width several times (fucking game changer) & nothing else. I'm certain I exceeded the specifications for "intended use" of this tool & haven't had to file a T4011 on it. For $60 I can't complain.
I have one of these and could NEVER get the fucker to cut parallel. One side always grooved badly no matter how carefully I set it up.
It also sucks shit for reasonably accurate jointing an edge.
I can confirm that the blades are skookum though. I accidentially grazed it across a machinist vice and it planed off a nice smooth thin shaving of goddamn cast iron.
Fk me dead
I own 3 18v versions, look pretty much the same. Over past 4 years only one had an issue, but by the time the replacement arrived, it started working again, and still does.
I use mine daily at work, mostly on plastic and thin aluminium while installing windows.
Just wanted to share about the one I inherited from my dad. It does not have the blades yours has. When I first tried using it, there was rust and pitting on the blades. I pulled them out and sharpened (each blade is one piece locked under the clamp). I got most of the pitting off. Enough so it does work, albeit some sanding is needed afterwards. Still, it does a nice job. Mine is evidently made in Japan. The badge is riveted on, not a sticker. It is in a molded case with all the accessories. My dad probably got it in the late 80s or early 90s. Now that I've seen your video, I may try to do a more thorough cleaning. It is a nice tool; much easier to use than a hand plane (of which I also inherited several). Thanks for your videos.
Listen I am no Juggalo and I have never meant one that didn't eventually become a raging acholic, meth user or someone that keeps their dogs tied to a tree 24/7. With that said when ICP sang the infamous "Fucking magnets! How do they work?!" most people that busted their balls over it didn't know either. I superficially know how magnets work, but I can't tell you the physics behind how magnets work.
Magnet. Magic. Gotta be an etymological link there.
It's been a while but great to see another BOLTR
I got myself a Borsht one a year or so ago, it's been pretty awesome
I have a Borscht too. The belt ripped after about 3 hours
I worked as a Makita tech in the 90s, the old 1900B with the riveted name plate was more heavily built so I only saw them if the owner was smart enough to bring it in for bearings as soon as they got noisy. The routers were worse, I had a few come in where the ball bearings seized, spun and melted the housing so we scrapped the tool. Had the owner caught it right away it was relatively cheap repair to replace the bearings
Made in USA often doesn't represent what it once did nowadays
Ave, If your kids ever pick up on your unique grammar usage, they will be the most popular kids in school to the other students, and spend a lot of time in the principals office… Lol
Do you shave your wood for you or for her?
Been using mine in the field for 30 years. Other than eating the cord off it, it's been good for rough work. Those insert cutters are a nice upgrade (the old carbide knives were brazed to steel blanks).
Box opened relatively carefully…
What is this, an April Fools video?
Thanks for the BOLTR vid ! Love them.
Side note, a great video: how to tune your electric plane, by Louis Sauzedde, Tips from a Shipwright.
I have sold my soul to Makita because of the quality (and the fact that one of the European manufacturing plants is 15 miles from home) Service, from the tool dealers opposite the factory, is exceptional but even they warned me not to buy Makita with a made in USA tag because the quality wasn't good. All of my kit has made in Europe or (the real, pure stuff) made in Japan.
I like their tools and, having invested in batteries, won't be switching brands any time soon (too lazy to lug more than one charger around) but am happy to admit that other manufacturers/brands also build great kit.
Good strategy, the Made in Japan Makita stuff is absolutely top notch.
Opening the box like the common man? - 5 skookum points
I have two 3 inch models , made in Japan and a 4 inch model from Japan too ..they work flawlessly
Hey you cheated! The box was already opened!
I own a battery brushed one since last winter, I've used it on mdf mouldings, doors and rough slabs of wood and the trick is to use a leaf blower once in awhile to clean it.
Coming from FL USA, where quality work is exceedingly difficult to find, instead of blaming the stickers on bad management, I'm going to blame it on lack of quality workers and management having to hire from the bottom of the barrel just to get a body with a pulse to do the work.
Those mangers should be pushing for increased pay for the workers so they can get higher quality employees.
@@martyk1156 Sometimes the higher ups will not budge and the managers are helpless. The company I work for has announced no more hiring in the USA, despite our senior staff leaving and managers asking to hire more people. So now some of the managers are leaving too. The problems often come from the top.
@@8180634 my belief has always been as a manager your job is to make it work between what the employee wants and the owner wants. Owners higher managers because they don't have the ability to do that job themselves. Explain to them what is happening and how they are running themselves out of business due to poor production and if they are smart they will listen if not then you are working on the titanic.
I picked one of these up 2 years ago. I do home repair and remodeling. I always keep it in the truck. If I take my shoes off I can count the number of times I've used it. But damn when I needed it I was certainly glad to have it.
Interesting that Makita rat tail grinder is US made and a great tool. This planer is lacking
Always enjoy the tool breakdown videos!
I found the continuity testing for dummies tutorial very useful too.
I have one of these that is probably 30 years old. Got f for five bucks at a yard sale from a retired carpenter/set designer/roadie. It was well used and seized up. A couple of bearings, a new belt, blades, and brushes and it works good as new. Up until recently, I was a profession wood butcher, and my planer mostly got used for leveling floor joists and such. Not an easy life, and it still works fine.
Had mine around 7 years and it works well. I keep all my planners clean and clear all chip jams pretty quick. Mainly used on softwood.
I have something like that. Stanley made it around 1915. Still works great.
Getting soft on the unpackaging....I expect better, sir!!! j/k, glad to see a BOLTR. Thanks for sharing!