Is it possible for you to share more details such materials needed, name of sealant, name of parts used to build the windows, and stuff? The video is pretty good in demonstration but people like myself who don't have experience or know spec8fics can really benefit from learning the basics. Thanks!
You have no idea how much trouble you've saved me! I'm trying to create a wall of glass at 49 degrees for heating a solar wood dryer. My initial plan was to route two channels in wood for the 3/16", 2' x 5' greenhouse glass. In case of damage, I want to pop out one that might break to replace it. It would be hard to get the grooves right for the glass to slide in. They would have rotted and fogged up. After seeing your videos, it seems the way to go is the stainless spacers, dessicant and butyl rubber sealing it. What kind of blade did you use in your cut off saw? Where can I get the dessicant? What brand are the connectors? Many thanks for such useful videos!!!
I'm wondering if the internal space ever gets filled with a noble gas for higher R value... I know this is done with factory produced units, but I'm wondering if small shops can do this...a valve of some kind.
Even the large supplier can't keep the gas sealed inside, doubt the smaller guys. The noble gas thing is mostly marketing, in theory it works. In practice manufacturers cannot keep it from leaking out.
Hey Alex, I'm a 85 YO DIYer. I have five IG units that need rebuilt. I have a roll of Super Spacer and caulk tubes of sealant. I'm sure you are a busy person but I really need some advice and hope you can help me. I'm confused! The SS1266 super Spacer has tape on one face and it wraps half way around both edges. The tape is apparently meant to stay. The Spacer is said to have pressure activated sealant on both edges. I have not found anyone that can answer a couple of simple questions. 1. Can I use this Spacer without $500 dollar tools? 2. How do I make the Spacer edges stick to my glass panes? A phone rep at the supplier where I bought the Spacer said I should apply 877 sealant to the Spacer edges to seal it to glass. WT---?? I understand sealing outside the SS but edges??. 3. How much pressure is needed to activate the primary sealant? Will clamps do it? Thanks from Kentucky, Bill C But edges??
Out of curiosity, how hard is it to source the rubber butyl, spacers, and desiccant? I also live in a small town and today's shipping times are starting to hurt both me and my customers... Looking at 4-5 weeks out at the min. for Ins. Units and wondering if it would be 'worth' investing in the equipment to build my own as you do. Also if you catch this comment, what specific glass cutter are you using? I looked into the pen style but most of them just seemed janky and more for the hobbyist. Thanks for your time man, i appreciate any insight or input you have!
Toyo tc17 glass cutter is good and cheaper than most and you can order the cutter and everything you need from CRLAURENCE .com the hot melt is pricey you can probably find one cheaper online somewhere else but I believe with crlaurence you need to set up an account with a business license. And it’s definitely worth it. Turn around time is super quick. Good luck man
Enjoy your vids.. Tanks! One question though. Would be nice a vid about your tools: the bad and the good + your set up. thanks again. Some love to your family and friends..
can one use acrylic instead of glass and is there a sealent that can be used for very low volume like a few storm windows vs having to buy that huge expensive? hot melt gun/machine?
Hey Just subscribed You also do 1/8” tinted double pane window glass ? One stationary double pane window is tinted with thicker glass believed to be 1/8” Not sure if it has any Argon gas between the glass. Nice video
Quick question. I see some companies that swap out the the air between the two pieces of glass with argon or krypton gas to make them even more efficient. If you trap air with humidity in it inside the window, won't that potentially cause problems later on? Or is that why you fill the spacer with the dessicant?
If you use tube CLR sealant and not the hot that you showed. How long do I need to leave the clamps on? Also how long is the cure time before installing with not hot sealant?
I say at least 24 hours for the clamps. It’s been a while since I used to crl sealant so I don’t remember what the actual cure time is but we would let them sit for at least 3 days before installing them
@@AlexRubioRQualityGlass Thanks for the reply! I’m transporting my triple insulated window from CA to UT and leaving the clamps on. The sealant tube says cures in 24 hr, but a full cure is 7 days. Does it hurt or help to leave the clamps on for the full 7 day cure?
I paused after 24 seconds to LIKE this video... anyone seen a video using 'Super Spacer 877 Black Silicone Foam and Metal Insulating Glass Sealant' method for an easy DIY job?'
Is there a way to do the butyl seal manually without the gun ? Its nice to have the gun but the machine costs like $2500 US so I'm trying to understand how I can seal it without that -- any ideas please share ? Thanks for your video.
Hi!! Thank you very much for this video, it is very instructive :) I would also like to ask you a couple more questions: 1- Is there a ratio between the size of the separators depending on the size and thickness of the glass? Where would I find this? 2- What is the black hot 'gulk'? you use to seal the panes? I live in a Spanish speaking country at the moment and have to dig into the translation of this product. 3- (for the same reason) What are the pebbles you put in the separators? Thank you soooo much!!!!
For your first question kinda yes but for the most part older medal and aluminum windows are more 1/2 to 5/8 thickness and newer windows like vinyl or wood/clad windows are more 5/8 to 3/4 thick and up to 7/8 or 1 inch thickness depending on size of windows the black stuff is butyl and I’m Hispanic and honestly don’t know what it’s called in Spanish and the small pebbles you see is desiccant it absorbs humidity to prevent condensation between the pains
I recommend just getting a caulking Gun and buying a box of super spacer 877 black silicone foam for metal insulating glass sealant it just takes a few days to fully cure instead of a few minutes like in this video
Can you please demonstrate how to clean the glaze before you put it together. I have been cleaning but sometimes ends up with some small dust particles or a mark despite how much I have cleaned it
Hey Alex-You make this look easy. I shot a rock through my big front-door sidelight with my weed whacker and broke the outer pane. It is a factory insulated window with just a layer of butyl tape between the panes. Local glass company says it would be cheaper to just buy a whole new unit for $343 because it will just leak and fog up if I try to do it myself. Ten years of installing windows and worked with a few stained glass guys who never seemed to have any trouble with fogging up. Window is under covered walkway, but we are in St. Louis where it gets steamy. Should I try to replace the outer pane or just replace the whole thing? Can it be installed standing up in place?
U can definitely try it yourself but it is true we recommend just getting a new one but when it’s more like an emergency or quick fix we will just replace one pain it is possible just need a good seal and no do not try it with it in place
Nice demonstration. I am attempting to repair two IGU's. I am not sure I can reuse the old metal spacers and cannot find new ones for sale online nor the desiccant except large bulk. I would like to use the super spacer foam because I can buy the spacer and sealant online, however, every video shows them using a $350 tool for the foam spacer alignment and then running the IGU through a machine that presses and heats it a little. Have you used both these products [ foam and 877 sealant ] without special tools or do you know if the super spacer foam can be installed just using a homemade jig and the unit simply clamped and sealed without special pressing and heating? Thanks
Yes I have used those products and I have never used any special tools they are actually easy to use and very user friendly and for someone who doesn’t do them all the time it should be perfect for you
@@billcroucher6206 I got my question answered by Alex Rubio above. I did a couple of windows without tools. It isn’t exactly easy because the foam is so extremely sticky and you really only get one chance to set it on the first pane and then applying the second pane so the two panes are aligned is difficult but I did do it. The other part that seemed it should be simple but wasn’t simple was cleaning the panes and then keeping the insides clean during assembly.
I do remove the tape so the glass sticks to the spacer the trick is the second side just peel off like an inch of the tape off set your glass where you want it and after your glass is set start pulling the tape off slowly and it should all adhere to the glass when your all done then you could use the 877 sealant
@@AlexRubioRQualityGlass that’s total? The whole unit, I can just prepare for 7/16” thick open spot in the window frame? I need 14 of them 10”x12” (I think). Interested in building them?
Hello Alex, can you give the brand of these spacers. I live in Brazil and I am having a difficult time to find this product. I might have to import but I don't have the name of this brand and company. Can you help me?
They sell some stuff in a tube it’s called silicone foam and metal ig sealant and it’s perfect for one time use and cheaper than the machine it just takes a couple of days to dry instead of 15 minutes
@@AlexRubioRQualityGlass I've already ordered Tremco Spectrem 2. Hopefully it'll work on my door glass. Thanks for confirming - they use butyl because it hardens on the spot and probably cheaper in bulk quantity.
@@AlexRubioRQualityGlass I'm wanting to do it in a enclosed trailer with a oven and the flexable spacer mobile repair but I need to be able to get the cost of glass down
I see! If u have a business you should be able to set up an account with a glass supplier near you and they should be able to ship it to you as well. We get ours from a glass supplier that’s two hours away from us
Hey thanks for the video! I've got two dual pane windows that have broken and I'm hoping to replace only the broken pane. Do you have recommendations for any alternatives to the hot butyl for a DIYer? Would the glazing putty stuff from home Depot work?
Hi Alex, some of my double pane double-pane, double-hung vinyl replacement windows leak at the bottom of the bottom sash during heavy rains. However, there is no condensation inside the IGU just water leaking into the house at the seam connection between the lower sash and lower window pane. I am not a pro like you. However, I think the problem is that the seal or gasket needs replacement. You have suggested changing the double-stick tape instead of using silicone. You say if you use silicone it will make it hard to fix if you need to reseal in the future.. My one goal is to stop the water from entering the house during heavy driving rains. I checked the weep holes, and they work. I'm afraid if I go through the effort of removing and replacing the double-stick tape the windows may still leak during heavy rains. The reason I keep asking this same question as you are the only window repairman who has provided easy-to-understand explanations of seal failure. But, what I need to know is how I can stop leaky double-hung vinyl windows from leaking during heavy rains. Should I pop the glazing beads and remove the IGU and then silicone the IGU into the frame, and then pop the glazing beads back on? Others say to just silicone the seam at the bottom 3 sides of the bottom sash. Since these windows are 25 years old I likely have some warping in the sash. But the windows are in very good condition except for the leaks. Surely, there must be an easy secure method to stop the leaks? If there is please do a video explaining how you stop the leaks. The alternative is the replacement of perfectly good windows, which contractors would love to do.
First of all have the always leaked during heavy rains? Then second the life span of a window usually are 15-20 years and if some warping that can definitely be a problem but honestly most windows are only water resistant not water proof depending on window manufacture ratings. I’m not sure where you live and how much heavy rain you are getting but normally if you can take a garden hose and spray if at your window and it leaks than you have a problem most should be able to withstand that kind of water pressure
Nice job Alex - appreciate your help! How wide of a piece of glass can you build without it sagging in the middle? If I use the Super Spacer 877 Black Silicone Foam and Metal Insulating Glass Sealant instead of your hi-tech hot butyl machine, do I have to heat it up with a heat gun or just use a caulk gun and put about 1/2" in cold all the way around the perimeter? Thanks!
You do not have to heat it up, just use it how it is and the bigger you go with your glass size the thicker the glass has to be but for an 1/8 thickness of glass I wouldn’t go any bigger than 60 inches and that’s pushing it
Have you received the spacer yet because I have purchased a 66 foot roll and wonder if the pressure adhesive on the sides of the spacer have a protective film over them that you remove as you place it. This super spacer foam is expensive and it appears it must be installed and the IGU sealed rather quickly to preserve the desiccant effectiveness so this all comes down to planning and execution and even then I will have over half a roll left over that I hope I can reseal effectively for future use. I plan on using a sharpie to mark lines to aid in placing the spacer straight and the protective film would help a great deal. I also am wondering how the corners will work since there is a vapor barrier that will need to bend without bunching up.
You pull the blue tape off one side and stick it to the glass about 3/8 from the edge and work it all the away around and the get the top side started by pulling the tape off like an inch then set your second piece of glass on top and pull the tape slowly as the glass begins to stick to the foam space and work it all the way around. That’s the easiest way. If you pull it off all At once good luck getting it exactly where you want it
this seems very long winded. where i work this would all be done in 2 minutes. i mean this way works n maybe its better idk. but seems that way. either way as long as it works haha
![DIY Double Insulated Glass || Save Money [How To]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/DXcnbdHcrps/mqdefault.jpg)
![DIY Double Insulated Glass || Save Money [How To]](/img/tr.png)
Is it possible for you to share more details such materials needed, name of sealant, name of parts used to build the windows, and stuff? The video is pretty good in demonstration but people like myself who don't have experience or know spec8fics can really benefit from learning the basics.
Thanks!
You have no idea how much trouble you've saved me! I'm trying to create a wall of glass at 49 degrees for heating a solar wood dryer. My initial plan was to route two channels in wood for the 3/16", 2' x 5' greenhouse glass. In case of damage, I want to pop out one that might break to replace it. It would be hard to get the grooves right for the glass to slide in. They would have rotted and fogged up.
After seeing your videos, it seems the way to go is the stainless spacers, dessicant and butyl rubber sealing it. What kind of blade did you use in your cut off saw? Where can I get the dessicant? What brand are the connectors? Many thanks for such useful videos!!!
Thanks for sharing your knowledge! 👍👍👍👍👍& Subscribed!!!
Very informative video Mark. Thank you. Where do you get your materials?
We are the professional supplier for the hot melt machine as well as the hot melt sealant for the insulated unit.
Do you have a link for the spacers and moisture absorbing beads?
CRL sells supplies and they ship.
We are the professional supplier for the hot melt machine as well as the hot melt sealant for the insulated unit.
Clear and efficacious! Appreciated!!
Thanks for the awesome video Alex. If I don’t have a hot melt butyl machine is there an alternative method I can use?
Following I been trying to find one but they are so expensive
We are the professional supplier for the hot melt machine as well as the hot melt sealant for the insulated unit.
I'm wondering if the internal space ever gets filled with a noble gas for higher R value... I know this is done with factory produced units, but I'm wondering if small shops can do this...a valve of some kind.
Even the large supplier can't keep the gas sealed inside, doubt the smaller guys. The noble gas thing is mostly marketing, in theory it works. In practice manufacturers cannot keep it from leaking out.
Hey Alex, I'm a 85 YO DIYer. I have five IG units that need rebuilt. I have a roll of Super Spacer and caulk tubes of sealant.
I'm sure you are a busy person but I really need some advice and hope you can help me.
I'm confused! The SS1266 super Spacer has tape on one face and it wraps half way around both edges. The tape is apparently meant to stay. The Spacer is said to have pressure activated sealant on both edges. I have not found anyone that can answer a couple of simple questions.
1. Can I use this Spacer without $500 dollar tools?
2. How do I make the Spacer edges stick to my glass panes?
A phone rep at the supplier where I bought the Spacer said I should apply 877 sealant to the Spacer edges to seal it to glass. WT---?? I understand sealing outside the SS but edges??.
3. How much pressure is needed to activate the primary sealant? Will clamps do it?
Thanks from Kentucky, Bill C
But edges??
Out of curiosity, how hard is it to source the rubber butyl, spacers, and desiccant?
I also live in a small town and today's shipping times are starting to hurt both me and my customers... Looking at 4-5 weeks out at the min. for Ins. Units and wondering if it would be 'worth' investing in the equipment to build my own as you do.
Also if you catch this comment, what specific glass cutter are you using? I looked into the pen style but most of them just seemed janky and more for the hobbyist.
Thanks for your time man, i appreciate any insight or input you have!
Toyo tc17 glass cutter is good and cheaper than most and you can order the cutter and everything you need from CRLAURENCE .com the hot melt is pricey you can probably find one cheaper online somewhere else but I believe with crlaurence you need to set up an account with a business license. And it’s definitely worth it. Turn around time is super quick. Good luck man
What product was used for cleaning up the glasses?
Hi Alex, where would i find tools like the gun that you use for the saelant and other material ? Thanks again for the videos
Enjoy your vids.. Tanks! One question though. Would be nice a vid about your tools: the bad and the good + your set up. thanks again. Some love to your family and friends..
That’s dope bro I’m a Glazier and I never knew how they’re made I just install them 🤣
I live in a small town so we have to do it all. From residential automotive and commercial
Well got me thinking about starting my own business. Love this trade honestly.
@@TheGuy0121 it’s a good business for sure
Fucking dope af!!
can one use acrylic instead of glass and is there a sealent that can be used for very low volume like a few storm windows vs having to buy that huge expensive? hot melt gun/machine?
Do you still windows? what is your company called and where are you located?
I am in Kansas City and I do not see any business providing this kind of servi dce. It is interesting of what you are doing
I've had glass shops make custom insulated panes for me several times before, but never knew how they were made. Great video!
Thanks for watching!
This video is great! Insulated glass units always seem like witchcraft
We are professional supplier for the hot melt machine as well as the hot melt sealant for the insulated unit.
Where can I buy new spacer material not in bulk, but to repair 2-3 windows. All online stuff is wholesale and sold in bulk?
If you have a local glass shop that builds new insulated units they might be nice enough to sell you some
Can you use a regular hot glue gun for this? Also, where do you get those beads and the metal?
Windows don't need to be filled with Argon? Show us how to fix an Argon-filled window. Thanks for the video, good job!
Argon is a plus.
Fixing involves filling the unit once it's been assembled.
Good demo, thanks. Where can I buy spacers and desiccant?
Can you do cold welding of glass?
Nice this is going to be my next project.
Hey Just subscribed
You also do 1/8” tinted double pane window glass ?
One stationary double pane window is tinted with thicker glass believed to be 1/8” Not sure if it has any Argon gas between the glass.
Nice video
Quick question. I see some companies that swap out the the air between the two pieces of glass with argon or krypton gas to make them even more efficient. If you trap air with humidity in it inside the window, won't that potentially cause problems later on? Or is that why you fill the spacer with the dessicant?
Yes for both questions
@@AlexRubioRQualityGlassThanks for your quick reply. Very informative video!
Note that the humidity of the workspace needs to be adequate.
Argon is a neutral and heavier gas that works even better than air.
Hey thanks man :)
Could you tell me roughly how much the spacers and silica beads were? And how much was your hot melt machine? None of the suppliers list prices online
Hey Alex. Thanks for the video(s). What is that machine that pump the black hot rubber called and where to get it from?
Hi Alex, do you offer to make double pain standard sets for me and ship to me in Ohio ? 15 glazed units ?
If you use tube CLR sealant and not the hot that you showed. How long do I need to leave the clamps on?
Also how long is the cure time before installing with not hot sealant?
I say at least 24 hours for the clamps. It’s been a while since I used to crl sealant so I don’t remember what the actual cure time is but we would let them sit for at least 3 days before installing them
@@AlexRubioRQualityGlass Thanks for the reply! I’m transporting my triple insulated window from CA to UT and leaving the clamps on. The sealant tube says cures in 24 hr, but a full cure is 7 days. Does it hurt or help to leave the clamps on for the full 7 day cure?
Also, how long will a can of desiccant last after opening it up and reclining the can?
Can pls identify what powder you put inside
Thanks for sharing the knowledge.
Nice job
I paused after 24 seconds to LIKE this video... anyone seen a video using 'Super Spacer 877 Black Silicone Foam and Metal Insulating Glass Sealant' method for an easy DIY job?'
no, but basically same idea, just use a caulk gut to apply 877 intead of using hot melt.
Where you get that machine from how much it costs
What are the specs of the stainless steel that you use for spacers for 1/2" double pane glass and the connectors? Thank you!
Could post a link to were you get your supplies?
Can you build me 32 of those?
alex how can I contact your company
What is the name of the machine you use for the glue?
Is there a way to do the butyl seal manually without the gun ? Its nice to have the gun but the machine costs like $2500 US so I'm trying to understand how I can seal it without that -- any ideas please share ? Thanks for your video.
Figure out what temperature is needed and heat a metal surface you can scrape with.
Hi!! Thank you very much for this video, it is very instructive :) I would also like to ask you a couple more questions:
1- Is there a ratio between the size of the separators depending on the size and thickness of the glass? Where would I find this?
2- What is the black hot 'gulk'? you use to seal the panes? I live in a Spanish speaking country at the moment and have to dig into the translation of this product.
3- (for the same reason) What are the pebbles you put in the separators?
Thank you soooo much!!!!
For your first question kinda yes but for the most part older medal and aluminum windows are more 1/2 to 5/8 thickness and newer windows like vinyl or wood/clad windows are more 5/8 to 3/4 thick and up to 7/8 or 1 inch thickness depending on size of windows the black stuff is butyl and I’m Hispanic and honestly don’t know what it’s called in Spanish and the small pebbles you see is desiccant it absorbs humidity to prevent condensation between the pains
Hello. Where do you get the parts for these? Or the glue tool
Whats the gun and black glue called and what would you recommend i get if I’m a beginner on a budget!
I recommend just getting a caulking Gun and buying a box of super spacer 877 black silicone foam for metal insulating glass sealant it just takes a few days to fully cure instead of a few minutes like in this video
What’s the name of the heat gun and material?
Sure please tell me where I can purchase everything at so I can start making ID units and the next video can you show how to install muttons
You can look up everything on crlaurence.com but you can find other suppliers to get it cheaper!
Hey man, I live in Colorado. Any chance I could pay you for a window for a door I'm about to build?
I haven’t shipped Anything to anyone yet but if it’s something not to big maybe just let me know the details
Can you please demonstrate how to clean the glaze before you put it together. I have been cleaning but sometimes ends up with some small dust particles or a mark despite how much I have cleaned it
I have another video where I do that just check through my videos
I need to repair my window where can I buytal that I can use in caulking gun
You can find it online it’s silicone foam and metal spacer sealant
Hey Alex where are you located
great content,
Will be even greater to see you answering questions from others, cheers
I answer questions all the time
Hey Alex-You make this look easy. I shot a rock through my big front-door sidelight with my weed whacker and broke the outer pane. It is a factory insulated window with just a layer of butyl tape between the panes. Local glass company says it would be cheaper to just buy a whole new unit for $343 because it will just leak and fog up if I try to do it myself. Ten years of installing windows and worked with a few stained glass guys who never seemed to have any trouble with fogging up. Window is under covered walkway, but we are in St. Louis where it gets steamy. Should I try to replace the outer pane or just replace the whole thing? Can it be installed standing up in place?
U can definitely try it yourself but it is true we recommend just getting a new one but when it’s more like an emergency or quick fix we will just replace one pain it is possible just need a good seal and no do not try it with it in place
Nice demonstration. I am attempting to repair two IGU's. I am not sure I can reuse the old metal spacers and cannot find new ones for sale online nor the desiccant except large bulk. I would like to use the super spacer foam because I can buy the spacer and sealant online, however, every video shows them using a $350 tool for the foam spacer alignment and then running the IGU through a machine that presses and heats it a little. Have you used both these products [ foam and 877 sealant ] without special tools or do you know if the super spacer foam can be installed just using a homemade jig and the unit simply clamped and sealed without special pressing and heating? Thanks
Yes I have used those products and I have never used any special tools they are actually easy to use and very user friendly and for someone who doesn’t do them all the time it should be perfect for you
Did you get your question answered? I have the same question. Bill C
@@billcroucher6206 I got my question answered by Alex Rubio above. I did a couple of windows without tools. It isn’t exactly easy because the foam is so extremely sticky and you really only get one chance to set it on the first pane and then applying the second pane so the two panes are aligned is difficult but I did do it. The other part that seemed it should be simple but wasn’t simple was cleaning the panes and then keeping the insides clean during assembly.
I do remove the tape so the glass sticks to the spacer the trick is the second side just peel off like an inch of the tape off set your glass where you want it and after your glass is set start pulling the tape off slowly and it should all adhere to the glass when your all done then you could use the 877 sealant
@@timabbatiello8993Thanks Tim. How exactly did you make the Super Spacer sticky?
Do you ever add argon?
Is it possible to seal the sides with urethane, silicone, or something else besides hot butyl?
Yeah silicone is good
👍
Cool, thanks for showing, do you have any videos on filling low e gas?
The low e glass is just a coating on the glass itself. Manufactures will fill them with argon gas
Subscribed!
Where do you get your screen mesh in the previous videos?
If you need just a few screens you can get some at Home Depot
Alex what helps to reduce the noise from the exterior do you need to add another component to absorb sound to the window?
Yes we can. We can easily make this a triple pain window and it would definitely reduce lots of sound
I want to rebuild old wood cellar sash windows with double panes. How thin can I make something like this?
The thinnest I’ve done was 7/16 of an inch
@@AlexRubioRQualityGlass that’s total? The whole unit, I can just prepare for 7/16” thick open spot in the window frame? I need 14 of them 10”x12” (I think). Interested in building them?
Hello Alex, can you give the brand of these spacers. I live in Brazil and I am having a difficult time to find this product. I might have to import but I don't have the name of this brand and company. Can you help me?
We get them from crlaurence sorry for the late response
Aluminum spacers
@@AlexRubioRQualityGlass thank you so much.
Thanks for that!!
Is it possible to add a third or fourth layer I’m trying to make windows and doors that are also sound proof!
Yes just repeat the process and just depends on how thick you want it
@@AlexRubioRQualityGlass you’re so helpful my friend thankyou lemme know how i can pay it forward in any way
How can I do this if I don't have the "hot butyl" machine?
They sell some stuff in a tube it’s called silicone foam and metal ig sealant and it’s perfect for one time use and cheaper than the machine it just takes a couple of days to dry instead of 15 minutes
@@AlexRubioRQualityGlass I've already ordered Tremco Spectrem 2. Hopefully it'll work on my door glass. Thanks for confirming - they use butyl because it hardens on the spot and probably cheaper in bulk quantity.
Hey where are you working out of??
Northern Nevada
Great thanks
Good job!!👍
Great tutorial 👌
I want you
I know who u are!!! Lol
I’m still doing my resume right now!!
Nice
I’m subscribed and going to like all your videos so they can cut you a check
New subscriber here! Where do you get your glass from
From a huge glass supplier! If you are looking for just a little bit of glass just hit up your local glass shop
@@AlexRubioRQualityGlass I'm wanting to do it in a enclosed trailer with a oven and the flexable spacer mobile repair but I need to be able to get the cost of glass down
I see! If u have a business you should be able to set up an account with a glass supplier near you and they should be able to ship it to you as well. We get ours from a glass supplier that’s two hours away from us
Where are you located how can we contact you
I’m in utah. What can I help you with
@@AlexRubioRQualityGlass i was wondering what butyl machine do you have and what company do you buy your spacer from
@@albertplancarte459 we get our materials from crlaurence.
Hey thanks for the video! I've got two dual pane windows that have broken and I'm hoping to replace only the broken pane. Do you have recommendations for any alternatives to the hot butyl for a DIYer? Would the glazing putty stuff from home Depot work?
Hi Alex, some of my double pane double-pane, double-hung vinyl replacement windows leak at the bottom of the bottom sash during heavy rains. However, there is no condensation inside the IGU just water leaking into the house at the seam connection between the lower sash and lower window pane. I am not a pro like you. However, I think the problem is that the seal or gasket needs replacement. You have suggested changing the double-stick tape instead of using silicone. You say if you use silicone it will make it hard to fix if you need to reseal in the future.. My one goal is to stop the water from entering the house during heavy driving rains. I checked the weep holes, and they work. I'm afraid if I go through the effort of removing and replacing the double-stick tape the windows may still leak during heavy rains. The reason I keep asking this same question as you are the only window repairman who has provided easy-to-understand explanations of seal failure. But, what I need to know is how I can stop leaky double-hung vinyl windows from leaking during heavy rains. Should I pop the glazing beads and remove the IGU and then silicone the IGU into the frame, and then pop the glazing beads back on? Others say to just silicone the seam at the bottom 3 sides of the bottom sash. Since these windows are 25 years old I likely have some warping in the sash. But the windows are in very good condition except for the leaks. Surely, there must be an easy secure method to stop the leaks? If there is please do a video explaining how you stop the leaks. The alternative is the replacement of perfectly good windows, which contractors would love to do.
First of all have the always leaked during heavy rains? Then second the life span of a window usually are 15-20 years and if some warping that can definitely be a problem but honestly most windows are only water resistant not water proof depending on window manufacture ratings. I’m not sure where you live and how much heavy rain you are getting but normally if you can take a garden hose and spray if at your window and it leaks than you have a problem most should be able to withstand that kind of water pressure
Nice job Alex - appreciate your help! How wide of a piece of glass can you build without it sagging in the middle? If I use the Super Spacer 877 Black Silicone Foam and Metal Insulating Glass Sealant instead of your hi-tech hot butyl machine, do I have to heat it up with a heat gun or just use a caulk gun and put about 1/2" in cold all the way around the perimeter? Thanks!
You do not have to heat it up, just use it how it is and the bigger you go with your glass size the thicker the glass has to be but for an 1/8 thickness of glass I wouldn’t go any bigger than 60 inches and that’s pushing it
Have you received the spacer yet because I have purchased a 66 foot roll and wonder if the pressure adhesive on the sides of the spacer have a protective film over them that you remove as you place it. This super spacer foam is expensive and it appears it must be installed and the IGU sealed rather quickly to preserve the desiccant effectiveness so this all comes down to planning and execution and even then I will have over half a roll left over that I hope I can reseal effectively for future use. I plan on using a sharpie to mark lines to aid in placing the spacer straight and the protective film would help a great deal. I also am wondering how the corners will work since there is a vapor barrier that will need to bend without bunching up.
You pull the blue tape off one side and stick it to the glass about 3/8 from the edge and work it all the away around and the get the top side started by pulling the tape off like an inch then set your second piece of glass on top and pull the tape slowly as the glass begins to stick to the foam space and work it all the way around. That’s the easiest way. If you pull it off all At once good luck getting it exactly where you want it
@@AlexRubioRQualityGlass Thanks. Is there any trick for the corners?
@@timabbatiello8993 not really, just try to bend it as much as you can I e seen people cut the corners but then you might lose the seal that way.
this seems very long winded. where i work this would all be done in 2 minutes. i mean this way works n maybe its better idk. but seems that way. either way as long as it works haha