Like that video of a dude who got the polarity mixed up, ended up pulling his disc brake rotor out looking worse than when it went in and tried to play it off like it worked lmao
It's important to have good conductivity between the negative wire and the rusty item. The video shows bubbles on the hook but not many on the wrench probably because the rust on the wrench is preventing good conductivity with the hook. To improve the process scrape to bare metal where the negative current needs to flow. Also, on rusty pieces with two parts, like the wrench body and the movable jaw, current needs to flow to the movable jaw and may be inhibited by rust between the pieces. Either position a second negative wire or scrape some rust off to help improve conductivity between all the parts of the rusty item. Thanks for filming this!
A very kind gentleman heard about me derusting tools and left a massive cardboard box filled with a solid mass of rust. He didn't say who he was, but left a note saying he moved house over a year ago and had all his hand tools and drill bits in another cardboard box under his workbench. His son painted the garage where these tools were and to air it out he left a window above the workbench open. It stayed that way for close to a year and every time it rained it would trickle down a couple of power cables which ran from near the window and laid across this box. Everything in that box literally rusted together into one lump of tools and rust. I used a hammer to break them apart and over 2 weeks I derusted them in a large plastic bath. Everything ended up completely free of rust and had a deep black sheen to them. Everything which was originally chromed lost their shine and I assume the chrome as well. Here I am 7 years further on and every item is still rust free. Oh yes, after derusting I sprayed them with a coat of WD40. Sidenote, After cleaning everything I discovered 2 antique American square shaped shifters dated 1920. There was also a set square covered in paint and rust, it finished up minus both the paint and the rust. I'm positive there was no way they would have turned out looking so good if I hadn't used electrolysis.
Incredible technique showcased in this rust restoration video! Truly inspiring and motivating me to kickstart my own channel. Big thanks for the valuable insight! 😊
Washing soda Positive to sacrificial scrap Negative to item to be derusted To optimise- cut up scrap metal tin or sheet and surround the item to be derusted. More surface area = more ion transfer.
Not tin! The sacrificial metal needs to be iron or steel. You realize that tin is an elemental metal, don't you? A "tin can" is a steel can with a thin plating of tin on the inside.
You don't need the vinegar. Just keep using electrolysis, it will do a better job than using vinegars. It will remove all of the rust completely. I see in the video there is still some rust remaining. Acid will promotes rerusting eventually. Oil helps but when it drys up or is removed by use it will quickly rerust. Don't use vinegar.
Right about 03:30, my experience has been that using a drill, dremel too, or bench grinder/brush and a steel brush, rather than a hand brush will produce a nice sheen on even badly pitted steel. It’s still pitted, but has a nice sheen. Just as an experiment, after the steel brush, I quickly gave it a quick pickling bath to ‘reactivate’ the surface, and thoroughly drying it with a shop vac and a blow dryer, I hit it with a self-etching, pit-filling spray on primer, a light sanding of only the exposed surfaces with 400 grit sandpaper, quick wipedown with tackcloth, on more coat of really thin primer, and a final couple of coats of really tough bright aluminum finish spray paint, and it not only looked a thousand percent better, it held up amazingly well under occasional use. It was a pair of vice-grips, and with normal lubrication and usage, the small amount of overspray on the threads and moving surfaces fell away and didn’t cause a problem. It wasn’t necessary, I just wanted to see if it would work. Nowadays, you can get super tough clear coats that come in specialized rattle-cans that apply 2-part epoxy-based coatings that are orders of magnitude harder and tougher than anything previously available in a spray can that could be used in such situations. A can of that stuff costs about the same as a new pair of vice-grips at Walmart lol, but cheap entertainment for weirdos like me… I get away with all kinds of stuff under the “proof of concept experiment” excuse. He-he …
I loved this video. To the point and very easy to follow. Usually I derust with my bench grinder, occasionally I use my angle grinder paired with my vice, but they are all out of operation while I build a new work bench, so I'll give this a shot. I'm considering using a 5 gallon bucket for larger items. Thanks for the lesson 👍👍👍
Thanks a lot for this excellent video. I have a battery charger AND BOOSTER (that can start a car with a flat battery), do you think t could be ok (I won't put the fault on you if it burns)? And baking soda? I haven't watched the full video yet 1:21, but you didn't give quantities, we can do around the same as we see.
Thank you very much. Excellent demonstration. I would like to ask a question. Can electrolysis derusting be used to remove light rust from chrome finish bathroom/kitchen baskets/containers?
It helps to place several sacrificial anodes around the item to be cleaned . The greatest current flows to the closest part of the item to the anode . By having more anodes you get better overall coverage and it works faster. Instead of oiling the tool after the derust process , you can spray it will a zinc rich coating. the surface of the steel is in perfect condition to take this kind of coating and it becomes very durable.
I have some rust stopper that adds a cool patina look. However it kind of needs some rust to attach to. Areas I've cleaned off doesn't have the same effect. After this process id imagine the piece would be very vulnerable to new rust. Besides oil, any suggestions on a good product to apply to prevent new rust from forming?
Did you add vinegar to water for the first bath, and did you add water to the second vinegar bath, did you do electroysis in the second bath or just bathing the piece to derust?
Its Magic! after steel brush, steel wool, acid washing… fgs a 5m HCL acid aka Muriatic acid soak would do it all without all that work! Or a long soak in evaporust or citric acid or edta. Wish you’d shown it just after removing and a water rinse only. Ive done a lot and get the same result from a bristle brush wheel and orange oil! Make my own penetrant from atf and lighter fluid to soak in first, which is far better than wd or a-z brand stinky perfumed diesel! Dry ice and lasers are amazing but costly. Nice demo
Unfortunately the important safety information appearing with this video appears onscreen for a ridiculously short time: 1. Do this only in a well ventilated area. 2. Not recommended for objects used under high mechanical stress. 3. Do not use ANY non-ferrous metals anywhere in this process. Stainless steel is especially dangerous. 4. Do not use a metal container. 5. Always wear eye and skin protection.
@@sergeytolstov956 Tiny amounts of flammable gas that dissipates very quickly unless you are in a hermetically-sealed room, and tiny amounts of chlorine at far less concentration than a trip to a swimming pool.
What sort of battery charger is most suitable for this? Set mine up and was using an ‘automatic’ charger in the 12 v position (no current settings on it) got massive bubbling and after 4-5 minutes charger shut down due to overheating. Meter on charger stayed pegged at 15+ amps until shutdown. Prefer a reasonably economical solution not looking to spend big dollars on this project.
Hello! Can you please help me? I recently have acquired some old antique parts and tools that I need to remove the rust from using electrolysis. Unfortunately my old style battery charger just died and I went to purchase a new one. Apparently they make these new battery chargers “idiot proof“ because when I plugged it in they work nothing like the old ones as now they have incorporated a bunch of silly safety measures I guess to keep some numbskull from blowing himself up or electrocuting himself! 🙄 On the old style battery chargers you could take the positive and negative connectors scrape them together and they would spark but you can’t do these with the new ones. Can you recommend a type of charger like the old chargers I can use? Thank you!
Hi Phayzyre105, thank you so much for your question, I totally get you and I am happy I bought couple of years back an old battery charger, I can suggest if you have an old transformer 6v or 12v even better you can use it, just make sure you identify the positive (+) and negative (-) in advance, some old mobile phone chargers might do the trick, another option is too look for second hand battery charger and again I don't know what size of object you plan to de-rust but if it's reasonable size a small transformer will work. If it's just light rust you can leave it in vinager for a few days and after use soft metal wool to clean it up and oil after, if its heavy rust electrolysis will do the trick 😉
@@Flamingfurnace Hello again! Just a follow-up from my previous reply; I went to eBay and Amazon last night just to see if they carry any of the old style chargers and fortunately they still do. I ordered one for 40 bucks.
@@phayzyre1052 cool, I hope very much all will work well for you with the electrolysis process, it really do work like magic if all preparation was followed correctly 😉, perfect use for old rusty tools or restoration parts. Just one more thing I read in the past some comments from people saying to consider mechanical parts under high work stress as the electrolysis might weaken the metal part, I don't know much about this but worth checking in case your parts are for mechanical use, all the best.
When I used electrolysis for the first time it worked really well. When I tried it for the second time with another object. I changed the water, added new soda and brushed the anode clean. I turned it on and works good at the beginning. but as time goes on it stops working good and there isn't any foam stuff forming on top. The water only turns slightly brown and there are almost no bubbles after a few hours. The item still has a lot of rust on it after it has been in the electrolysis bath for almost 2 days. What am I doing wrong?
I had a similar issue during an experiment. My electrical source would read “short” and the electrolysis would stop. I changed out my solution and used less soda and it seems to have fixed it. I think there is a such thing as having too much soda.
@@brandonrusso4377 If your electrical source read "short" that normally indicates there is a "short" between the positive and negative. In other words, the part to be de-rusted (negative) is making contact with the other metal (positive) piece. When you changed out the solution and tried it again the parts were probably not touching and therefore there was no "short" that time so it worked.
does it also work with sodium bicarbonate (baking soda)? Can I use copper wire (mains wire basically) to connect the tool to be cleaned to the charger?
No, Washing Soda/ Na2CO3/soda ash is more toxic than the edible sodium BiCarb. Washing soda is for LAUNDRY, would even avoid it on dishes. I do use baking soda followed by vinegar down the dishwasher drain to fizz & clean the washer, if that is what you mean.
Can I use a 12V power adapter instead? I do not have a battery charger. What kind of metal can i use for the sacrificial one? :) Galvanized, etc ? Which ones are allowed? Thanks
No simple answer but I'll try. Your mobile charger is 12v and is capable or producing 2 amps of current (maximum). The amount of current it will produce in the electrolysis method will vary, depending on how well the electrical connections to the part to be de-rusted and the other part is, as well as how conductive your liquid solution is. I use a 12v charger, capable of producing 8 amps. I have never seen it go above even 1/2 amp so I don't see why your 2 amp charger won't work.
If i want to de-rust a steel motorcycle gas tank (just the inside) can I just use the gas tank as the soaking tank and just hook the negative lead to the tank itself? (And insert the steel sacrificial anode into the tank without it touching the walls)?
Hi, for chrome plated metal I would advise just to use vinegar would do great job, or even just WD40 if it's just some rust spots. Electrolysis de-rusting would be more for mild steel that is exposed to rust. I did test it on chrome plated in the past and it worked as well.
before I throw this amount of money and work at it, it would need to be more than a $2 tool to make it worth derusting. But for an example, you did a great job.
I just call it the “collector” or “rust magnet” or “accumulator” and a circular bent hangar anode set around the “victim” or “subject” or “target” will be more efficient. I can see “disposable” but I just cant do “sacrificial” because it collects debris and is like a dirty dish but hey what do words matter anymore either…
Works even faster if the area where the negative point is at is scratched so that the rust does not effect the conductivity of the wrench At least that's what I know after multiple electrolysis videos
I was thinking about applying this to Oil and Gas downhole tools which have suffered corrosion but to be honest. Just save time and money, strip it down, wire brush and WD40. I really wanted to find a benefit from this. With an adjustable screw driver, the only good thing you may be able to do is free the securing bolt for the lower jaw, when that is free you can disassemble it in minutes. Seriously not finding any reason to go through this process.
I feel there is a reason I never saw My grandad doing this, and often saw him doing what you said haha, and in the rare cases, a pvc and plexiglass sandblast box
It looks like you're pouring a couple of soft drinks over the wrench after the process yet you never list them at the beginning as part of the materials needed. The video mentions vinegar but the vinegar at the beginning is white, clear.
So basically electrolysis just removes rust simply by generating lots and lots hydrogen gas for use as a quick debriding agent (to mechanically dislodge the rust away). So, you'll want to run this at high currents and likewise keep the anodes very close to the cathode to maximize energy-efficiency (waste less energy just on running current through the solution!). FYI: 1) You do *NOT* need a "sacrificial" anode!! Graphite anodes will work just fine!! 2) Forget washing soda -- just use plain sodium sulfate (Na2SO4)!! Much cheaper and will probably work better too!! 3) You can definitely use copper wire for the cathode just fine too without any problems at all -- but do NOT use it as the anode!! 4) Also, you'll want to "surround" the cathode as closely as possible with anodes to maximize energy-efficiency (less energy wasted on just running current through the solution) as well as to keep each anode in better shape!! (especially if you plan to reuse them)
How does this exactly work? With nickel electroplating, the material of the Anode part will go onto the Cathode part. In this case, than i would say that the material of the sacrifical part (anode), wil cover your part (cathode). Why is the rust dissapearing this way?
When finished why not use linseed oil that goes through polymerization for e the non moving parts to better protect it and so it won't feel oily after it cures?
I've found wax to polish car paintwork works very well on bare steel. It's more permanent and less messy than using oil. Polymerization? Don't understand the process you mention.
![Yeat & Quavo - 5BRAZY [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4XxnTAwyxus/mqdefault.jpg)
![Cleaver Restoration [Black Cleaver With Ebony Handle]](/img/1.gif)
Much helpful than other derusting videos
Like that video of a dude who got the polarity mixed up, ended up pulling his disc brake rotor out looking worse than when it went in and tried to play it off like it worked lmao
It's important to have good conductivity between the negative wire and the rusty item. The video shows bubbles on the hook but not many on the wrench probably because the rust on the wrench is preventing good conductivity with the hook. To improve the process scrape to bare metal where the negative current needs to flow. Also, on rusty pieces with two parts, like the wrench body and the movable jaw, current needs to flow to the movable jaw and may be inhibited by rust between the pieces. Either position a second negative wire or scrape some rust off to help improve conductivity between all the parts of the rusty item. Thanks for filming this!
Great tip thanks 👍🏻
Thank you for the practical, extra tips & suggestions.
Shouldn’t you add salt to the electrolysis water? Water is polar, and a very good insulator. Your electrolyte bath needs ions for conductivity, no?
Thank you for that sharp mind. Need more like you. If you piss people off with your brains. Good.
@@OnerousEthic That's what the washing soda is for, it works better than salt.
A very kind gentleman heard about me derusting tools and left a massive cardboard box filled with a solid mass of rust. He didn't say who he was, but left a note saying he moved house over a year ago and had all his hand tools and drill bits in another cardboard box under his workbench. His son painted the garage where these tools were and to air it out he left a window above the workbench open. It stayed that way for close to a year and every time it rained it would trickle down a couple of power cables which ran from near the window and laid across this box. Everything in that box literally rusted together into one lump of tools and rust. I used a hammer to break them apart and over 2 weeks I derusted them in a large plastic bath. Everything ended up completely free of rust and had a deep black sheen to them. Everything which was originally chromed lost their shine and I assume the chrome as well. Here I am 7 years further on and every item is still rust free. Oh yes, after derusting I sprayed them with a coat of WD40. Sidenote, After cleaning everything I discovered 2 antique American square shaped shifters dated 1920. There was also a set square covered in paint and rust, it finished up minus both the paint and the rust. I'm positive there was no way they would have turned out looking so good if I hadn't used electrolysis.
I had always been hesitant to try this tool i saw this video. I never thought about using a battery charger. It worked exactly like this video. Thanks
Incredible technique showcased in this rust restoration video! Truly inspiring and motivating me to kickstart my own channel. Big thanks for the valuable insight! 😊
Thank you for not wasting my time, I got every question answered very quickly!
Washing soda
Positive to sacrificial scrap
Negative to item to be derusted
To optimise- cut up scrap metal tin or sheet and surround the item to be derusted. More surface area = more ion transfer.
You also get more black sludge with too high of a current.
Not tin! The sacrificial metal needs to be iron or steel. You realize that tin is an elemental metal, don't you? A "tin can" is a steel can with a thin plating of tin on the inside.
Very good video, and it is totally correct. This process is like magic for old rusty items. I use it frequently.
Are those 1x1 metal or wood sticks at each end?
this is the first time I see how to clean rust like this... wow, can you try this... the method shared is really good, friend
You don't need the vinegar. Just keep using electrolysis, it will do a better job than using vinegars. It will remove all of the rust completely. I see in the video there is still some rust remaining. Acid will promotes rerusting eventually. Oil helps but when it drys up or is removed by use it will quickly rerust. Don't use vinegar.
Carli are you Ukrainian by chance your surname is .
@@romanchomenko2912 I'm Romanian!
YES use vinegar.
Right about 03:30, my experience has been that using a drill, dremel too, or bench grinder/brush and a steel brush, rather than a hand brush will produce a nice sheen on even badly pitted steel. It’s still pitted, but has a nice sheen. Just as an experiment, after the steel brush, I quickly gave it a quick pickling bath to ‘reactivate’ the surface, and thoroughly drying it with a shop vac and a blow dryer, I hit it with a self-etching, pit-filling spray on primer, a light sanding of only the exposed surfaces with 400 grit sandpaper, quick wipedown with tackcloth, on more coat of really thin primer, and a final couple of coats of really tough bright aluminum finish spray paint, and it not only looked a thousand percent better, it held up amazingly well under occasional use. It was a pair of vice-grips, and with normal lubrication and usage, the small amount of overspray on the threads and moving surfaces fell away and didn’t cause a problem. It wasn’t necessary, I just wanted to see if it would work. Nowadays, you can get super tough clear coats that come in specialized rattle-cans that apply 2-part epoxy-based coatings that are orders of magnitude harder and tougher than anything previously available in a spray can that could be used in such situations. A can of that stuff costs about the same as a new pair of vice-grips at Walmart lol, but cheap entertainment for weirdos like me… I get away with all kinds of stuff under the “proof of concept experiment” excuse. He-he …
TLDR
Awesome video. Watching the before and after while my
grill grate derust outside in a bath 😁😁😁
I loved this video. To the point and very easy to follow. Usually I derust with my bench grinder, occasionally I use my angle grinder paired with my vice, but they are all out of operation while I build a new work bench, so I'll give this a shot. I'm considering using a 5 gallon bucket for larger items. Thanks for the lesson 👍👍👍
The fact Electrolysis is the same term that's used for permanent hair removal is also used for rust removal is incredibly reassuring
Yeah. I noticed the wrench didn't have any hair afterward.
@@Bluuplanet Bazilian Wrench
Thank you.
Ash from Scotland 🏴
Need a swimming pool, truck load of vinegar, and 30 battery chargers… IM DIPPIN MY WHOLE TRUCK! 😂😂
Don't do it, your car may be gone tomorrow, lol have a good day.
Amazing! Very well explained and simple to implement... Thanks a lot guys.
Glad you liked it!
Thanks a lot for this excellent video.
I have a battery charger AND BOOSTER (that can start a car with a flat battery), do you think t could be ok (I won't put the fault on you if it burns)?
And baking soda?
I haven't watched the full video yet 1:21, but you didn't give quantities, we can do around the same as we see.
Thank you very much. Excellent demonstration. I would like to ask a question. Can electrolysis derusting be used to remove light rust from chrome finish bathroom/kitchen baskets/containers?
I have used this on chromed tools and it turns the surface black.
Do not have any chrome, copper, or stainless steel touching the solution as it makes toxic fumes and toxic solution.
Oopsie, guess I'm dead
Is any of the pitting due to the electrolytic process or is it entirely due to the rust? I wonder if glass bead blasting would do a better job...
Thanks this was very helpful, but I would have loved to have seen the sanding/refinishing portion of the process.
It helps to place several sacrificial anodes around the item to be cleaned . The greatest current flows to the closest part of the item to the anode . By having more anodes you get better overall coverage and it works faster.
Instead of oiling the tool after the derust process , you can spray it will a zinc rich coating. the surface of the steel is in perfect condition to take this kind of coating and it becomes very durable.
What’s the best metal to use as a sacrificial anode?
@@dulac7753any scrap
just something u dont need
Very simple way to remove rust, thank you
Great video, thank you! What kind of battery charger is that?
I have some rust stopper that adds a cool patina look. However it kind of needs some rust to attach to. Areas I've cleaned off doesn't have the same effect. After this process id imagine the piece would be very vulnerable to new rust. Besides oil, any suggestions on a good product to apply to prevent new rust from forming?
A lot of rust can be removed by simply immersing the spanner in vinegar overnight. If I was to do both which would I do first?
electrolysis looks cooler and less wasteful
make sure to do it outside though, electrolysis makes lots of chlorine
Thank you for sharing your experience and knowledge
Did you add vinegar to water for the first bath, and did you add water to the second vinegar bath, did you do electroysis in the second bath or just bathing the piece to derust?
Is better with magnesium crystals? I read the conductivity is incomparable have some expert confirm. Thanks
Its Magic! after steel brush, steel wool, acid washing… fgs a 5m HCL acid aka Muriatic acid soak would do it all without all that work! Or a long soak in evaporust or citric acid or edta. Wish you’d shown it just after removing and a water rinse only. Ive done a lot and get the same result from a bristle brush wheel and orange oil! Make my own penetrant from atf and lighter fluid to soak in first, which is far better than wd or a-z brand stinky perfumed diesel! Dry ice and lasers are amazing but costly. Nice demo
Nicely done. Some of the comments are a little over-the-top, but great job. Thanks
Can any oil be used? Like cooking oil??
Unfortunately the important safety information appearing with this video appears onscreen for a ridiculously short time:
1. Do this only in a well ventilated area.
2. Not recommended for objects used under high mechanical stress.
3. Do not use ANY non-ferrous metals anywhere in this process. Stainless steel is especially dangerous.
4. Do not use a metal container.
5. Always wear eye and skin protection.
nr 3 please why ?
@@myflydream94 Due to emission of very toxic substances during electrolysis.
@@myflydream94 due to the emission of flammable* substances. AKA odorless hydrogen gas.
@@sergeytolstov956 Tiny amounts of flammable gas that dissipates very quickly unless you are in a hermetically-sealed room, and tiny amounts of chlorine at far less concentration than a trip to a swimming pool.
@@brettbuck7362 Safety - first!
Which one is best for rust removal sand blasting or electrolysis 🤔
What type of metal did you use for the positive connection? Was it steel, iron or does it not matter what type of metal you use?
Don't use stainless steel.
Great video! Thank you for sharing! Do you think I can use a dead battery as a bridge to electrolysis from a charger?
Out of curiosity, what would accomplish by doing that?
How nice to see that you do not secure anyhthing the table/container could bump and cross current everything.....great demo.
What sort of battery charger is most suitable for this? Set mine up and was using an ‘automatic’ charger in the 12 v position (no current settings on it) got massive bubbling and after 4-5 minutes charger shut down due to overheating. Meter on charger stayed pegged at 15+ amps until shutdown. Prefer a reasonably economical solution not looking to spend big dollars on this project.
i was thinking about why the inside part is glittering ✨ as new, i have doubts are you make these rust artificially?
Background music was awesome ❤
Great job. Congrats...
나도 하나를 복원 중인데, 이 영상이 도움이 되었네요. 좋은영상 감사합니다. Good 🥰😍🤩🥰😍🤩
Incredibly straight-forward and simple thank you :)
I am thinking this will work for bronze. What are you thinking?
The vinegar is interesting . Looks like cola / soda . Nicely demonstrated and Thanks .
Thank you! Cheers!
So the wrench is hung on metal hooks at each end of the wrench. What are the hooks hanging on? 1x1 metal or wood sticks?
Hello! Can you please help me?
I recently have acquired some old antique parts and tools that I need to remove the rust from using electrolysis. Unfortunately my old style battery charger just died and I went to purchase a new one. Apparently they make these new battery chargers “idiot proof“ because when I plugged it in they work nothing like the old ones as now they have incorporated a bunch of silly safety measures I guess to keep some numbskull from blowing himself up or electrocuting himself! 🙄 On the old style battery chargers you could take the positive and negative connectors scrape them together and they would spark but you can’t do these with the new ones. Can you recommend a type of charger like the old chargers I can use? Thank you!
Hi Phayzyre105, thank you so much for your question, I totally get you and I am happy I bought couple of years back an old battery charger, I can suggest if you have an old transformer 6v or 12v even better you can use it, just make sure you identify the positive (+) and negative (-) in advance, some old mobile phone chargers might do the trick, another option is too look for second hand battery charger and again I don't know what size of object you plan to de-rust but if it's reasonable size a small transformer will work. If it's just light rust you can leave it in vinager for a few days and after use soft metal wool to clean it up and oil after, if its heavy rust electrolysis will do the trick 😉
@@Flamingfurnace Thank you very much! Those are all good tips and I will give them a try.
@@Flamingfurnace Hello again! Just a follow-up from my previous reply; I went to eBay and Amazon last night just to see if they carry any of the old style chargers and fortunately they still do. I ordered one for 40 bucks.
@@phayzyre1052 cool, I hope very much all will work well for you with the electrolysis process, it really do work like magic if all preparation was followed correctly 😉, perfect use for old rusty tools or restoration parts. Just one more thing I read in the past some comments from people saying to consider mechanical parts under high work stress as the electrolysis might weaken the metal part, I don't know much about this but worth checking in case your parts are for mechanical use, all the best.
@@Flamingfurnace Not so fast! A transformer produces a/c (no positive or negative). If using a transformer you will need to convert the a/c to d/c.
Could stainless steel be used as the sacrificial piece I wonder?
Can baking soda be used instead of washing soda?
Great tutorial ! Do you know if you could just use Aircraft stripper to achieve the same result ?
Thats just paint stripper, it wont do anything to rust
possibly
You could try just using the vinegar, leave the part to soak for a week.
When I used electrolysis for the first time it worked really well. When I tried it for the second time with another object. I changed the water, added new soda and brushed the anode clean. I turned it on and works good at the beginning. but as time goes on it stops working good and there isn't any foam stuff forming on top. The water only turns slightly brown and there are almost no bubbles after a few hours. The item still has a lot of rust on it after it has been in the electrolysis bath for almost 2 days. What am I doing wrong?
I had a similar issue during an experiment. My electrical source would read “short” and the electrolysis would stop. I changed out my solution and used less soda and it seems to have fixed it. I think there is a such thing as having too much soda.
@@brandonrusso4377 If your electrical source read "short" that normally indicates there is a "short" between the positive and negative. In other words, the part to be de-rusted (negative) is making contact with the other metal (positive) piece. When you changed out the solution and tried it again the parts were probably not touching and therefore there was no "short" that time so it worked.
@@klink370 i had the same problem, with too much soda it short circuit, added water and everything worked
does it also work with sodium bicarbonate (baking soda)? Can I use copper wire (mains wire basically) to connect the tool to be cleaned to the charger?
no copper in water
is baking soda and dishwashing soda the same?
No, Washing Soda/ Na2CO3/soda ash is more toxic than the edible sodium BiCarb. Washing soda is for LAUNDRY, would even avoid it on dishes. I do use baking soda followed by vinegar down the dishwasher drain to fizz & clean the washer, if that is what you mean.
How long do you let it do its thing
can i use baking soda or anything else?
Baking soda or washing soda is diferent?
Yes big difference, its washing soda that is a chemical to soften water or open drains and more uses, not to be added to food ever.
This is great video, and after watching this... I decide to just buy new Spencer....
Nice, maybe you can switch the anode and cathode after cleaning to give it a nice clean shine?
wouldn't that just rust it again?
Oh you bets believe I was movin my body while watching this 🕺🏽
Can u put gears with synchros in them?
Can I use a 12V power adapter instead? I do not have a battery charger.
What kind of metal can i use for the sacrificial one? :) Galvanized, etc ? Which ones are allowed? Thanks
Any power source you can adjust the current on will do. Galvanised steel definitely won't work , any bit of rusty iron will do the trick though.
Can i use baking soda?
Great Video
Hi bro!! Can i use 12v 2amp mobile charge to this process? What is more important in this process? Voltage or amp?
Hi, I believe 12v mobile charger will work fine for the electrolysis proccess.
No simple answer but I'll try. Your mobile charger is 12v and is capable or producing 2 amps of current (maximum). The amount of current it will produce in the electrolysis method will vary, depending on how well the electrical connections to the part to be de-rusted and the other part is, as well as how conductive your liquid solution is. I use a 12v charger, capable of producing 8 amps. I have never seen it go above even 1/2 amp so I don't see why your 2 amp charger won't work.
I wonder what type of tarp is strong enough to build a basin big enough for my car,LOL!
epdm roofing as tarp
After all that you should nickel plate it with almost the same process :)
So could you just use a 12 V battery?
If i want to de-rust a steel motorcycle gas tank (just the inside) can I just use the gas tank as the soaking tank and just hook the negative lead to the tank itself? (And insert the steel sacrificial anode into the tank without it touching the walls)?
Did you try that?
No. I figured it might ruin the paint. I wound up getting a 5 gallon bucket of Evaporust which worked like a charm
Can the water just be flowed down any outdoor drain?
Would this procedure work on chrome plated metal?
Hi, for chrome plated metal I would advise just to use vinegar would do great job, or even just WD40 if it's just some rust spots. Electrolysis de-rusting would be more for mild steel that is exposed to rust. I did test it on chrome plated in the past and it worked as well.
Table salt is much better than washing soda faster and stronger, but its problem is that it makes the wires heat up quickly
Great video. Going to do it myself
Great video😊!
Good performance 😮
before I throw this amount of money and work at it, it would need to be more than a $2 tool to make it worth derusting. But for an example, you did a great job.
I just call it the “collector” or “rust magnet” or “accumulator” and a circular bent hangar anode set around the “victim” or “subject” or “target” will be more efficient. I can see “disposable” but I just cant do “sacrificial” because it collects debris and is like a dirty dish but hey what do words matter anymore either…
Great tutorial!
Thank you.
How much amper the charger should have? Mine is 2am 12v , nothing is happening 😢
Can the Anode + be a Carbon electrode?
Works even faster if the area where the negative point is at is scratched so that the rust does not effect the conductivity of the wrench
At least that's what I know after multiple electrolysis videos
Very fast and efficient rust removal！
The trick is to drink the rusty water after you are finished
If you put vinegar and brush it you can skip the electrolosys ..
Use salt and up the voltage
what metals can i use as sacrificial metals ?
Any metal
Various metals might remove the rust, but release toxic fumes. Non-galvinized steel or any iron pieces are so available, just use that.
I was thinking about applying this to Oil and Gas downhole tools which have suffered corrosion but to be honest. Just save time and money, strip it down, wire brush and WD40. I really wanted to find a benefit from this. With an adjustable screw driver, the only good thing you may be able to do is free the securing bolt for the lower jaw, when that is free you can disassemble it in minutes. Seriously not finding any reason to go through this process.
I feel there is a reason I never saw My grandad doing this, and often saw him doing what you said haha, and in the rare cases, a pvc and plexiglass sandblast box
Vinegar not needed & eats at the iron making iron acetate. The electrolysis will remove all the iron oxide eventually.
Very nice
Now you have to nickel plating ;)
A bath with oxalic acid will give high iron parts a really nice surface finish but it may need to sit for a few days.
Aren’t there any bad gasses that get released by this?
Probably HHO gas, make sure it's done in a ventilated area
It looks like you're pouring a couple of soft drinks over the wrench after the process yet you never list them at the beginning as part of the materials needed. The video mentions vinegar but the vinegar at the beginning is white, clear.
What is the ratio?
Amounts of ingredients would help.
Wondering how long it took. Would have been quicker if you turned the wrench so the wider area was facing the cathode.
can i put my car in this stuff?
I set an old rusted adjustable wrench in vinegar for five days and it came out clean. No need for any tools and at $.92.
So basically electrolysis just removes rust simply by generating lots and lots hydrogen gas for use as a quick debriding agent (to mechanically dislodge the rust away). So, you'll want to run this at high currents and likewise keep the anodes very close to the cathode to maximize energy-efficiency (waste less energy just on running current through the solution!).
FYI:
1) You do *NOT* need a "sacrificial" anode!! Graphite anodes will work just fine!!
2) Forget washing soda -- just use plain sodium sulfate (Na2SO4)!! Much cheaper and will probably work better too!!
3) You can definitely use copper wire for the cathode just fine too without any problems at all -- but do NOT use it as the anode!!
4) Also, you'll want to "surround" the cathode as closely as possible with anodes to maximize energy-efficiency (less energy wasted on just running current through the solution) as well as to keep each anode in better shape!! (especially if you plan to reuse them)
How does this exactly work? With nickel electroplating, the material of the Anode part will go onto the Cathode part. In this case, than i would say that the material of the sacrifical part (anode), wil cover your part (cathode). Why is the rust dissapearing this way?
When finished why not use linseed oil that goes through polymerization for e the non moving parts to better protect it and so it won't feel oily after it cures?
I've found wax to polish car paintwork works very well on bare steel. It's more permanent and less messy than using oil. Polymerization? Don't understand the process you mention.
polymerization is involved in curing a cast-iron skillet with oil at ~500 F in an oven to PREVENT rust. Doubt any role in this for REMOVING rust.