Man, my truck had been throwing a code for 5 years. 1988 with 4.3. After watching this video, it took me five minutes. God knows how much gas I wasted.
Let me tell you - you are leading your viewers through the process and systems so much better than most pickup-truck youtube video makers out there. Thank you for mentioning that this sensor (which I just picked up from AutoZone myself) is for the computer, and that there is a separate one for the gauge. I wondered my my gauge was working if this is really what I needed. I do have a bit of a choppy idle, which does sound like a cam - lol - and I will miss it, but I need to get the fuel economy fixed on this thing.
Yeah if its having a choppy idle and such it's more than likely the sensor on top of the intake manifold. And yea definitely will be crappy fuel economy when they fail too but make sure you don't have any vacuum leaks
All of the sudden my truck wouldn’t hardly start right or run right. After checking everything and rebuilding the TBI I ran across your video. I literally went to my truck and unplugged the temp sensor and boom it started right up. I can still tell it need the info from the sensor but it ran. Thank for the tip I was running out of options.
@@ArsenalTrujillo the one for the gauge inside the truck . On side of the block ia called the temperature switch an it ask if u gave a gauge or light when you buy it
Thank you so much for this video - incredibly helpful and after wracking my brain, this seems like it might fix my issue. i noted the part you mentioned there will be coolant in there when you pull out the sensor - is it necessary to drain that before making the sensor swap?
You're very welcome! I'm Glad I Could help . now you don't have to necessarily drain the coolant when you change the sensor. U Can swap them really quick and it will he fine and just top off coolant in the rad for whatever you lost when changing them out .
I replaced mine a few years ago on my beautiful Blazer ZR2. I bought it for $2800 from a Grandpa that kept her in a garage in Houston. It's spot on with my gauge & it did help. My ECM & Coil cracked on my a few years ago causing a No Start. I replaced those, the distributor, cap, rotor, wires & plugs. Plus a new transmission because the stock Sunshields snap very easily. I'm doing the belt, tensioner, idler pulley & water pump tomorrow because my temp is running 210° & a tad higher when towing a small utility trailer here in SE Texas in the hot summer months. My current water pump isn't leaking & i can see water flowing through the radiator when the thermostat opens but maybe it's just weak. I've replaced everything else & no changes. I even installed a Severe Duty Clutch Fan. Maybe this is normal but it's always ran 200° even on extreme heat days in the past. Or i could just be a little too OCD 😂
As long as it's not getting above 220 or worse I believe it's fine because towing a trailer and you live in Texas and it's hot already it's going to run warmer for sure cause its putting a more load on everything and if ac is on too then that's definitely gonna boost it
My 93 stayed at 210 that's normal and then would cool down stayed at 195 with the thermostat I ran cause factory is A 195°F thermostat u can run cooler ones but then that screws with ECM cause it was designed to run at a factory specs of 195
I have an 89 S10 4.3 with a little leak in the plastic radiator neck which I typically just top off every few days. After a couple of years of this, I finally had that little brain fart and forgot to top it off a couple of days ago which resulted in my running the temp gauge up to just under the red zone before I realized it, at which time I pulled over, slowly topped it off, and was on my way. It's important to note that the truck never ran bad, and the dash lights never came on so I thought I might have dodged a bullet. Problem was, a few miles down the road it started hesitating, and then quit. I waited for 40 mins, fired it up and drove across town before it did it again. At this point I thought maybe I'd blown a head gasket and limped it home, let it cool, then checked the plugs, coolant and oil and exhaust and found no indications that the heads or gaskets had suffered any damage. I did blow a head gasket in it a few years back and there was NO doubt when that happens. Anyways, I replaced both sides at that time and it's run fine since until I let it overheat this week. Once I determined the engine might have survived I fired it up again and it ran normal until the thermostat opened, then a couple of minutes later the truck just stalled. I've come to the conclusion that it may just be a sensor that got fried and I'm going to try replacing the coolant temp sensor and see if that fixes the problem. I was just looking to get some other perspectives so I thought I'd scan some RUclipss. I've checked out a couple of videos where some guys tried to explain this simple process, but left out a couple of things here and there probably assuming the viewer knew those things (which most probably didn't or they wouldn't be checking out how to fix something here to begin with). As a result I saw a lot of criticisms in the comment section because they glossed over some stuff. You stated what you were doing and walked through it from beginning to end not leaving anything out (and pointing out the other sensor for the gauge on the dash was one of those little intangibles that would help those truly lost souls who didn't know an air cleaner from an alternator). I was just surprised there were no comments at all let alone any saying, "good job." Sorry my comment turned into a short story, lol. Maybe I'll update in a couple of days for the sake of those who may someday run into a similar problem. I've had this truck for 13 years and thought it was finally cooked... but discovering I may not have destroyed it after all just makes me marvel at how good these little trucks really are.
Wow what a story man an Journey lol . Yeah I've had many 2.8s with the issues of running bad when gets up to temp or in winter time when cold u start them an they run as if they had a built cam in them but it's just the sensor that was bad . Happens on 4.3s too that ecm really relies on that sensor to run correctly
Yeah I'm hasn't ran hot but now that you mention that the top of my radiator right below the cap was wet today when u was putting the coolant temp sensor in.I had a 93 S10Tahoe before I bought this Silverado and it blew a head gasket at 346,000 miles,I've always had to keep check on the Coolant level in these 4.3 engines,that's all I've ran for 20+years now,and a few people I know has to do the same with there trucks Would you tell me where the sensor for the Dash gage is located please
I had codes for the sensor . Also had cold start problems sometimes but most was when it was hot meaning up to full temp That sensor is very crucial for being correct and accurate for the computer to read to give the right amount of fuel and air mixture
Just watched your video concerning engine temperature sensor on a 1st Gen 4.3, my question, the sensor down on the head on the passenger side, you said it was for the gauge inside the truck, my gauge doesn't work, could that be the problem and how difficult to change ?
@@KnuckleHeadGarage27 good sir, one more question please,i just bought a 1993 Sonoma SLE edition 2x4 automatic and notified that the charcoal canister has been disconnected, the vacuum connector at the front base of the throttle body has been plugged but the hose going back towards the fuel tank is just laying there with no plug in it, what kind of problems can that cause,if any, and thanks in advance for your patience and time.
@@jameshicks4944 If that was my vehicle I would hook all that back up because of the fumes from the tank could be a bit dangerous if not done properly vented with it just being open and fumes going everywhere an under the truck close to exhaust and etc .
@@KnuckleHeadGarage27 Thankyou for responding, yes,i need to hook that vent back up,gas fumes and heat are a very dangerous combination, thanks again for your time and patience.
Hey man I hope you see this. I'm stuck. I have a brand new thermostat, coolent temp sensor, and coolent temp switch on my 92 s10, 4.3l. After a few minutes of running it shoots all they way up past 260 degrees. It's been doing it for 2 years with no issues other that it reading high and saying check gauges. Any idea what it could be?
I already replaced the sensor on the intake like he does in this video. And I’m having trouble finding the temp sending unit. I got one from Napa and it doesn’t work. I know the connector for my temp sending unit is good , because if I ground it the gauge will read max hot
If you replace the sensor that controls the gauge inside and it still does the same thing then you have a cluster problem and I would end up installing an aftermarket temperatures gauge
Are the sensors the same for both the block and ECM? I called myself replacing the gauge sensor on the block it appeared black with 1 prong slot and wired looking, so I assumed it was cracked. It had a green wire going to it (first time really working on the truck so I didn't know what it was supposed to look like) I call myself getting a sensor bc the gauge doesn't read squat and it looks like the one you replaced. Without any other options I put it in the side of the block and tried to wire a ground to the battery bc it was a 2 prong. Besides staying at a junkyard all day, where can I get a plug and sensor for the block. I also have a loose plug just laying around the tbi. I don't know where it goes and I don't see anywhere for it to go. It has a rubber boot on it and I feel like it goes on the tbi somewhere but it's hard finding where anything is on an older truck. The plug is bigger than those for the sensors, it doesn't have a clip and is a 2 prong. The wiring goes in a cluster with everything beside the egr valve. Anything helps man, great video
@@wavyc__7205 okay the one on the side of the block 2.8 - 4.3 is for the temp gauge inside only . I would take the connector for that one an a wire an plug that into it an ground that . Then turn the key on but not start it an the gauge should max out , if it does then the connector an wiring to the gauge cluster is all good . which means the sensor for that is bad
I did that and still nothing. Also been reading past full on the fuel gauge whenever the key is on or whenever it's running, I have took down the tank, pump, and sending unit also. Everything including the grounds are loose now and the meter still goes past full. Everything else in the cluster works, do you think I need another cluster?
This one was having issues when was up to temperature of running correctly and I also had codes for it . Also can cause issues with cold starting too which mine did as well . Later on found ECM was bad and kept causing all my issues but still this sensor was bad
@@KnuckleHeadGarage27 I was having a intermittent no start condition when it was warm outside(during summer, never happened in winter) when the engine was warm, after sitting for at least an hour, it would happen every 2 to 3 weeks. It would fire up then immediately die and then just crank refusing to start. Cycle key on and off 3 times, no dice, floor accelerator then crank, no dice. Even after letting it sit overnight it still wouldn't start, should have started then, plenty of time for engine to cool off completely. No check engine light, no codes. But starting fluid or disconnecting and then reconnecting the battery would get it to start and run on it's own after that and would do so until it would do it again 2 to 3 weeks later. Otherwise starts up and runs strong. Last time it happened at my local Wal-Mart someone stopped to help and I told him what was going on and he told me about the coolant temperature sensor and told me the same thing happened to his Astro, told me it turned out to be that part and he told me to look into it and sure enough, I read about that part and found that it can think that the engine is either colder or hotter than it actually is and make it hard to start. Not just for GM, but all brands. So I replaced it. I wont actually know until this upcoming summer but I have no doubt as I have had all the sensors(minus the knock and O2 sensors) on the motor replaced as well as the fuel pump and fuel filter. Spider injector replaced too.
On my 1990 Silverado I have changed plugs n wires,Fuel pump, and Coolant temp sensor, it still starts misfiring bad after about 6 or 7 minutes,please help me ,I work out of my truck n really need it right,it's the 4.3 262ci.v6 5speed manual shift 4wd ,RSVP
@@BetUBetterB sounds like could be anything but hows the fuel injectors spraying an does it rev up good at all or what ? An did u change the fuel filter too
@@KnuckleHeadGarage27 When I crank it runs great,and hit the road and it runs like a new truck,for about 6 or 7 minutes and I say that cause it's the same amount of time every time when it starts cutting out,Yes sir just had a new fuel pump and sending unit and filter put on 5 months ago,The Engine itself only has 43,000 miles,I had a Crate motor put in it 2 yrs ago
Now if you want to change the temperature sensor to a mechanical gauge you can do that no problem as long as you use the one that was for the gauge inside the truck that is on the side of the engine block . do not use the one that's on top of the intake that one has to stay there for the computer to read how hot or cold the engine gets to supply fuel and air mixture correctly.
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Man, my truck had been throwing a code for 5 years. 1988 with 4.3. After watching this video, it took me five minutes. God knows how much gas I wasted.
Lol well I'm glad to have helped and you got it fixed . I'm sure it's ran ritch all that time
Great video, you were the only one that provide the correct content on this change for my truck.
Your welcome and glad I could help out! No problem that's what keeps me going
Let me tell you - you are leading your viewers through the process and systems so much better than most pickup-truck youtube video makers out there. Thank you for mentioning that this sensor (which I just picked up from AutoZone myself) is for the computer, and that there is a separate one for the gauge. I wondered my my gauge was working if this is really what I needed. I do have a bit of a choppy idle, which does sound like a cam - lol - and I will miss it, but I need to get the fuel economy fixed on this thing.
Thanks I appreciate that .
Yeah if its having a choppy idle and such it's more than likely the sensor on top of the intake manifold. And yea definitely will be crappy fuel economy when they fail too but make sure you don't have any vacuum leaks
@@KnuckleHeadGarage27is there a chance you could make a video on the sensor for the gauge inside as well? Would really appreciate it!!!
@@hydrafreeze8814 if I'm not mistaken there's a video on the channel of Replaceing the sensor that's for the gauge inside
@@KnuckleHeadGarage27 link?
All of the sudden my truck wouldn’t hardly start right or run right. After checking everything and rebuilding the TBI I ran across your video. I literally went to my truck and unplugged the temp sensor and boom it started right up. I can still tell it need the info from the sensor but it ran. Thank for the tip I was running out of options.
Awesome man glad I could help out! In some way . Definitely keep these trucks on the road , to many getting junked and crushed
Gauge sensor! Thanks for mentioning that. Great video!
Glad I Could Help! Thanks for watching
Part number to the gauge sensor?
I been look for the sensor for the gauge on the dash cause it stop working. I finally got it fixed and it's working now. Thanks you so much sir.
Your welcome no problem glad I could help.
What’s was the name or part # for the one you replace on side of block?
@@ArsenalTrujillo when I get up in the morning I will get the number off the box and give it to you my friend
@@ArsenalTrujillo the one for the gauge inside the truck . On side of the block ia called the temperature switch an it ask if u gave a gauge or light when you buy it
Thank you guys
Thank you so much for this video - incredibly helpful and after wracking my brain, this seems like it might fix my issue. i noted the part you mentioned there will be coolant in there when you pull out the sensor - is it necessary to drain that before making the sensor swap?
You're very welcome! I'm Glad I Could help .
now you don't have to necessarily drain the coolant when you change the sensor. U Can swap them really quick and it will he fine and just top off coolant in the rad for whatever you lost when changing them out .
I replaced mine a few years ago on my beautiful Blazer ZR2. I bought it for $2800 from a Grandpa that kept her in a garage in Houston. It's spot on with my gauge & it did help.
My ECM & Coil cracked on my a few years ago causing a No Start. I replaced those, the distributor, cap, rotor, wires & plugs.
Plus a new transmission because the stock Sunshields snap very easily. I'm doing the belt, tensioner, idler pulley & water pump tomorrow because my temp is running 210° & a tad higher when towing a small utility trailer here in SE Texas in the hot summer months.
My current water pump isn't leaking & i can see water flowing through the radiator when the thermostat opens but maybe it's just weak. I've replaced everything else & no changes. I even installed a Severe Duty Clutch Fan. Maybe this is normal but it's always ran 200° even on extreme heat days in the past. Or i could just be a little too OCD 😂
As long as it's not getting above 220 or worse I believe it's fine because towing a trailer and you live in Texas and it's hot already it's going to run warmer for sure cause its putting a more load on everything and if ac is on too then that's definitely gonna boost it
My 93 stayed at 210 that's normal and then would cool down stayed at 195 with the thermostat I ran cause factory is A 195°F thermostat u can run cooler ones but then that screws with ECM cause it was designed to run at a factory specs of 195
Temp gauge wasn't working in my 92 blazer. I replaced this and it still didn't work now I know why. Thanks
No Problem , Glad to have helped out
That was a big help. Thanks for info
No problem glad I could help out . Anytime!
I have an 89 S10 4.3 with a little leak in the plastic radiator neck which I typically just top off every few days. After a couple of years of this, I finally had that little brain fart and forgot to top it off a couple of days ago which resulted in my running the temp gauge up to just under the red zone before I realized it, at which time I pulled over, slowly topped it off, and was on my way. It's important to note that the truck never ran bad, and the dash lights never came on so I thought I might have dodged a bullet. Problem was, a few miles down the road it started hesitating, and then quit. I waited for 40 mins, fired it up and drove across town before it did it again.
At this point I thought maybe I'd blown a head gasket and limped it home, let it cool, then checked the plugs, coolant and oil and exhaust and found no indications that the heads or gaskets had suffered any damage.
I did blow a head gasket in it a few years back and there was NO doubt when that happens. Anyways, I replaced both sides at that time and it's run fine since until I let it overheat this week.
Once I determined the engine might have survived I fired it up again and it ran normal until the thermostat opened, then a couple of minutes later the truck just stalled. I've come to the conclusion that it may just be a sensor that got fried and I'm going to try replacing the coolant temp sensor and see if that fixes the problem. I was just looking to get some other perspectives so I thought I'd scan some RUclipss.
I've checked out a couple of videos where some guys tried to explain this simple process, but left out a couple of things here and there probably assuming the viewer knew those things (which most probably didn't or they wouldn't be checking out how to fix something here to begin with). As a result I saw a lot of criticisms in the comment section because they glossed over some stuff.
You stated what you were doing and walked through it from beginning to end not leaving anything out (and pointing out the other sensor for the gauge on the dash was one of those little intangibles that would help those truly lost souls who didn't know an air cleaner from an alternator).
I was just surprised there were no comments at all let alone any saying, "good job." Sorry my comment turned into a short story, lol. Maybe I'll update in a couple of days for the sake of those who may someday run into a similar problem. I've had this truck for 13 years and thought it was finally cooked... but discovering I may not have destroyed it after all just makes me marvel at how good these little trucks really are.
Wow what a story man an Journey lol .
Yeah I've had many 2.8s with the issues of running bad when gets up to temp or in winter time when cold u start them an they run as if they had a built cam in them but it's just the sensor that was bad . Happens on 4.3s too that ecm really relies on that sensor to run correctly
Yeah I'm hasn't ran hot but now that you mention that the top of my radiator right below the cap was wet today when u was putting the coolant temp sensor in.I had a 93 S10Tahoe before I bought this Silverado and it blew a head gasket at 346,000 miles,I've always had to keep check on the Coolant level in these 4.3 engines,that's all I've ran for 20+years now,and a few people I know has to do the same with there trucks Would you tell me where the sensor for the Dash gage is located please
Wondering if it worked?
What was the problem the old sensor was giving you?
I had codes for the sensor . Also had cold start problems sometimes but most was when it was hot meaning up to full temp
That sensor is very crucial for being correct and accurate for the computer to read to give the right amount of fuel and air mixture
❤Any tips on how to run a similar air filter? I hate factory
They sell them at part stores on the shelf just a regular aftermarket Air cleaner .
Great job man!
Thanks man
Just watched your video concerning engine temperature sensor on a 1st Gen 4.3, my question, the sensor down on the head on the passenger side, you said it was for the gauge inside the truck, my gauge doesn't work, could that be the problem and how difficult to change ?
@@jameshicks4944 yes it's the same way that you replace the one in the top of the engine . Basically same way just a different sensor and connector
@@KnuckleHeadGarage27 THANKYOU
@@KnuckleHeadGarage27 good sir, one more question please,i just bought a 1993 Sonoma SLE edition 2x4 automatic and notified that the charcoal canister has been disconnected, the vacuum connector at the front base of the throttle body has been plugged but the hose going back towards the fuel tank is just laying there with no plug in it, what kind of problems can that cause,if any, and thanks in advance for your patience and time.
@@jameshicks4944 If that was my vehicle I would hook all that back up because of the fumes from the tank could be a bit dangerous if not done properly vented with it just being open and fumes going everywhere an under the truck close to exhaust and etc .
@@KnuckleHeadGarage27 Thankyou for responding, yes,i need to hook that vent back up,gas fumes and heat are a very dangerous combination, thanks again for your time and patience.
Hey man I hope you see this. I'm stuck. I have a brand new thermostat, coolent temp sensor, and coolent temp switch on my 92 s10, 4.3l. After a few minutes of running it shoots all they way up past 260 degrees. It's been doing it for 2 years with no issues other that it reading high and saying check gauges. Any idea what it could be?
Hey where did u get the coolant temp switch ??? I believe mine is bad. I have a 91’ 4.3 s10 and my temp gauge won’t work.
I already replaced the sensor on the intake like he does in this video. And I’m having trouble finding the temp sending unit. I got one from Napa and it doesn’t work. I know the connector for my temp sending unit is good , because if I ground it the gauge will read max hot
Bad gauge cluster either that or the sensor that was replaced
If you replace the sensor that controls the gauge inside and it still does the same thing then you have a cluster problem and I would end up installing an aftermarket temperatures gauge
Big help. If my temp gauge is working I need to replace the one you showed first on the left side of the motor?
Yeah the sensor switch on the side of the block is for the gauge inside truck .
The one on top of the intake is for the engine computer
Is the replacement part the same for both sensors? My gauge doesn't work, but my engine runs fine.
Yes pretty much same way to replace them both just 2 different sensors
Are the sensors the same for both the block and ECM? I called myself replacing the gauge sensor on the block it appeared black with 1 prong slot and wired looking, so I assumed it was cracked. It had a green wire going to it (first time really working on the truck so I didn't know what it was supposed to look like) I call myself getting a sensor bc the gauge doesn't read squat and it looks like the one you replaced. Without any other options I put it in the side of the block and tried to wire a ground to the battery bc it was a 2 prong. Besides staying at a junkyard all day, where can I get a plug and sensor for the block. I also have a loose plug just laying around the tbi. I don't know where it goes and I don't see anywhere for it to go. It has a rubber boot on it and I feel like it goes on the tbi somewhere but it's hard finding where anything is on an older truck. The plug is bigger than those for the sensors, it doesn't have a clip and is a 2 prong. The wiring goes in a cluster with everything beside the egr valve. Anything helps man, great video
Okay so what were you looking for or needing ?
Also there is a s10 forum for these trucks too on facebook
@@KnuckleHeadGarage27 my temp gauge in the cluster isn't reading, I have changed both sensors and still nothing. Got any tips?
@@wavyc__7205 okay the one on the side of the block 2.8 - 4.3 is for the temp gauge inside only . I would take the connector for that one an a wire an plug that into it an ground that . Then turn the key on but not start it an the gauge should max out , if it does then the connector an wiring to the gauge cluster is all good . which means the sensor for that is bad
I did that and still nothing. Also been reading past full on the fuel gauge whenever the key is on or whenever it's running, I have took down the tank, pump, and sending unit also. Everything including the grounds are loose now and the meter still goes past full. Everything else in the cluster works, do you think I need another cluster?
@@wavyc__7205 yeah you can try that an see , I actually have another good cluster from my 92 s10 I had in my parts stash
What Problems was the old sensor giving You? I have a '95 Blazer and I just had this part replaced.
This one was having issues when was up to temperature of running correctly and I also had codes for it . Also can cause issues with cold starting too which mine did as well .
Later on found ECM was bad and kept causing all my issues but still this sensor was bad
@@KnuckleHeadGarage27 I was having a intermittent no start condition when it was warm outside(during summer, never happened in winter) when the engine was warm, after sitting for at least an hour, it would happen every 2 to 3 weeks. It would fire up then immediately die and then just crank refusing to start. Cycle key on and off 3 times, no dice, floor accelerator then crank, no dice. Even after letting it sit overnight it still wouldn't start, should have started then, plenty of time for engine to cool off completely. No check engine light, no codes. But starting fluid or disconnecting and then reconnecting the battery would get it to start and run on it's own after that and would do so until it would do it again 2 to 3 weeks later. Otherwise starts up and runs strong. Last time it happened at my local Wal-Mart someone stopped to help and I told him what was going on and he told me about the coolant temperature sensor and told me the same thing happened to his Astro, told me it turned out to be that part and he told me to look into it and sure enough, I read about that part and found that it can think that the engine is either colder or hotter than it actually is and make it hard to start. Not just for GM, but all brands. So I replaced it. I wont actually know until this upcoming summer but I have no doubt as I have had all the sensors(minus the knock and O2 sensors) on the motor replaced as well as the fuel pump and fuel filter. Spider injector replaced too.
Thanks Alot,I appreciate the video,
Your welcome an glad I could help out
On my 1990 Silverado I have changed plugs n wires,Fuel pump, and Coolant temp sensor, it still starts misfiring bad after about 6 or 7 minutes,please help me ,I work out of my truck n really need it right,it's the 4.3 262ci.v6 5speed manual shift 4wd ,RSVP
@@BetUBetterB sounds like could be anything but hows the fuel injectors spraying an does it rev up good at all or what ? An did u change the fuel filter too
@@KnuckleHeadGarage27 When I crank it runs great,and hit the road and it runs like a new truck,for about 6 or 7 minutes and I say that cause it's the same amount of time every time when it starts cutting out,Yes sir just had a new fuel pump and sending unit and filter put on 5 months ago,The Engine itself only has 43,000 miles,I had a Crate motor put in it 2 yrs ago
@@KnuckleHeadGarage27 it has Full power until it starts cutting out,130 140 degrees or so
What's the one for the Guage called. Part store seems not to know
Coolant temperature switch I believe is what I call it . The connectors are different too so can't mix them up
Gracias
Your welcome glad I could help out , thanks for watching
Was your gauge stuck at 220 or something
No wasn't reading correctly
What if I wanted to change to a mechanical gauge?
Now if you want to change the temperature sensor to a mechanical gauge you can do that no problem as long as you use the one that was for the gauge inside the truck that is on the side of the engine block .
do not use the one that's on top of the intake that one has to stay there for the computer to read how hot or cold the engine gets to supply fuel and air mixture correctly.
@@KnuckleHeadGarage27 which side is it on?
@@twistedf4220 Depends on the year and type 4.3 but should be passenger side head that's now my 90 S10 blazer 4.3 is setup
1 Wire Connector
Do u kno the part number for the gauge sensor?
I don't exactly but however you can't mix them up the connectors for each sensor or different
@@KnuckleHeadGarage27 I need to know what the one on the side of the engine is called?
@@daltoncason6948 that one is the temp switch should be the name . That's for the grauge inside the truck
The one on the side is called a Temp Sender. The one you did is called Temp Sensor .
Correct!
4.3 didn't come out till may of 88, for future reference
false, I have a 4.3 TBI in my 1986 Caprice (yes it came that way from factory)
@@tripl3d10 i was referring to the s10s. It wasn't available until may of 88.
@@HardCoreGarage thought you were referring to 4.3’s in general, my apologies
@@tripl3d10 no problem at all man!
Dude Iam changing my today what the hell it's been two years I been changing everything never did I think to change that senor
Yeah that sensor has alot play into everything how these run right being fuel injection
I smell rich fuel rough idle not terrible temperature gauge reading a little high
@@jasoncampbell2859 any codes ?
Only use delco on my S10s, cant even trust delphi these days....
Don't blame ya
Awsome. Advice amigo gracias !
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Stuck in the house,
Stray bullets,
Agua salada,
One blood one vine,
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Back2back,
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Señor me siento,
Afín te encontre dios,
Im the one and the way,
Sound of sadness,
The good lord say,
Heart broken,
Oh lord,
Jeovah me ha dicho
Finally found you !
Oigan las !
Coment, share with fam & friends all websites !