I appreciate your videos. This explains why some other methods don’t work because this is a increase in depth since you are starting with the correct circumference. Thanks
oh my god!thank you for this!im an A cup!plus i was supposed to send you my drafts for modification but cant because i have no smartphone!this is great!i've just finished a dress based on both basic bodic and skirt blocks and was really happy about it BUT the armholes were SLIGHTLY saggy because of my boobless body lol!merci diane ,vous êtes génial!!en tout cas,ma robe est quasi parfaite (i obviously still need more practice!).il restait juste ça.je tenterais sur la prochaine creation!mille fois merci!!
That is an amazing technique! Thank you so much for showing us ❤ I have one (maybe dumb) question though: The points of the darts meet on your blocks but I have never sewn a pattern like that and I think it would look odd. Is there something I'm missing where the darts should be shorter? And how do I make them shorter? 😯 EDIT: Never mind, I found the answer in your pivoting dart video 😍
Hi, Diane. I have learned so so much from you. I celebrate your knowledge, skills and gerenosity. This seems to be the best way to fit different cup sizes, but I was wondering, the apex is moved? Is it right? My apex is 9cm away from the center front and now it is 9.6cm. I'm concerned about this. Thank you.
Thanks so much for this information. I have purchased your Block Drafting instructions from your Etsy site but I cannot find this "Change your cup size ..." pdf anywhere. How can I obtain a copy of this on pdf? I would like to add to my binder on pattern drafting. Thanks
Hi Diane, please could you tell me if I can just do the adjustment to the front and leave the under arm deduction, as my muslin at the back fits well, it's the front that is tight and looks out of position. I have learned so much from your videos, thank you. x
Hi Diane, thanx for excellent tutorial. I have a question, if I use my bust measurement when drafting the personal block, will it be necessary for me to do a bust adjustment?
Hello Zanap, I think the adjustment according to the cup size is only if you are 2 sizes of cup or more away from a B cup, D and up or AA Or if you usually have a problem with commercial garments because of the size of the cup. Diane
Hiiii diane , it has been a smooth learning ever since but i want to know if i can do grading up before cup size adjustments because grading up can increase the length of bodice therefore may not need a length adjustment right? Thanks
Life saving video! Not easy for a E-cup to with a small waist to find the fitting patterns and clothes. Although I have one question, how do you find your pivot/breast circumference on the new pattern? Thanks for your videos
Another brilliant tutorial. I have almost finished my bodice block. Quick question, does this method work if I need to lower my apex first? Do I still connect the shoulder dart to my new apex point?
Hello salma, Yes you should lower the apex first. Yes you still connect apex to shoulder and to waist. you might just have a little bigger line correction at the shoulder but it's normal. Diane
Hello Julia, If it fit good don't make any changes. These modifications are for a big difference in the cup size, since the block is a standard B cup, it could be all right even for a C cup, but not for a DD, I even had questions about H cup. same thing for smaller cup like AA. Diane
Thank you so much Diane. I will try this method on my base pattern. Could you please cinfirm to me that base body patter I purchase from your side it is also design with cut B? Thank you 😘
Hi Diane, thanx for your excellent tutorial, I used my personal measurements for this tutorial, everything worked out fine, its just that when I measure the dart bust width I get 7 cm. According to various pattern books a 97cm bust (my bust size,) dart size should be 8.2 cm. I don't understand this.
Hello Zanap You should not worry with that because the width (depth) of a dart depend on where it is on the contour of the pattern piece. Example: if you send the dart at the side seam it will be a smaller measure but the same adjusment. The depth of the darts is also a lot according to the cup size. The important is that it fit you good Diane
Great tutorial, thank you so much. I am adjusting a block that I drafted which also goes all the way down to the hipline. After using your method, of course I now have extra width at the hipline. Is it OK to reduce the size of the waist dart to reshape teh waist and then re-draw down to the hip? Or will that lose the gain at the bust-line? Actually, I don't think it will. I've added 4 cm at the bust, and will now remove 2cm each side of the waist dart, and bring in the waist 4cm at the side, then redraw the hip. I'll report back, in case anyone else has used this method.
Hello Tamsin To change the cup size, it should not change the all around bust measurement. I'm not adding I'm just moving the value, remove from back (2/3) and front (1/3) side seam at the under arm point. Then add it back to the apex, (1/3) to the center front piece and (2/3) to the side piece. Try your best to keep the waist and below untouched. Diane
Diane Deziel Thanks. Because my block went down to the hip, the extra cms at the bust had to be removed again from the waist and hip. I did this evenly across the side seam and waist dart, the redrew the hip line. All was good! Made a quick toile and it's looking really promising. This block was not made using your method though. I'm going to start again and draft using your method for everything. So many exciting possibilities. Thanks again. I'm hooked on your tutorials.
Hello Ramila the PDF to modify according to cup size is in my WIX SITE : dianedezie7.wixsite.com/toolfully If you must elongate, most probably from center front to the dart, add what you need moving also the dart parallel down. then close the dart and connect with the side seam with a soft "s" shape line. I hope this could help Diane
I believe that you presume too much. You are working under the assumption that the cup size requires an increase but the bust measurement itself is the pattern size. I tell you from experience that this will flatten, squish, a large bust and cut at the arm scythe. Cutting down a bigger pattern is more work than enlarging the bust when everything else fits. Or am I missing something?
![YoungBoy Never Broke Again - Missing Everything [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/dTYeMZGzOzw/mqdefault.jpg)
You change our lives with these lessons. The quality of my clothes has improved dramatically because of you. Thank you
Thanks for this very appreciated comment
Diane
You truly are a brilliant teacher. You are able to make everything so clear, without any ambiguity. Thank you so much for sharing your expertise.
Now I know how to fix my bodice block, thank you so much, it was squashing me but fitted everywhere else
I appreciate your videos. This explains why some other methods don’t work because this is a increase in depth since you are starting with the correct circumference. Thanks
gosh, I have tried to do this many times, following instructions from pattern books. You are an absolutely fantastic teacher. Pls do more. thank you.
Thank you Dear Diane. Finally I can make blouses for my sister, properly. 🤓👚👏
Thank you so much for your video lessons! Your YT channel is a concentrate of pure knowledge.
Beautiful. Your instructions are so easy to understand.
I have never see it done this way...can’t wait to try it!
Thank you, Ms. Diane. This was awesome!!!
Agreat video with a lovely accent to listen to.
So much knowledge in less than 10 minutes 😍
I always wanted to know how to resize the block. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
You make learning how to sew easy.
Very clever! I had no idea of this method!
oh my god!thank you for this!im an A cup!plus i was supposed to send you my drafts for modification but cant because i have no smartphone!this is great!i've just finished a dress based on both basic bodic and skirt blocks and was really happy about it BUT the armholes were SLIGHTLY saggy because of my boobless body lol!merci diane ,vous êtes génial!!en tout cas,ma robe est quasi parfaite (i obviously still need more practice!).il restait juste ça.je tenterais sur la prochaine creation!mille fois merci!!
That is an amazing technique! Thank you so much for showing us ❤
I have one (maybe dumb) question though: The points of the darts meet on your blocks but I have never sewn a pattern like that and I think it would look odd.
Is there something I'm missing where the darts should be shorter? And how do I make them shorter? 😯
EDIT: Never mind, I found the answer in your pivoting dart video 😍
Hi, I have learned so much from you,
please tell me how you determine cup size?
Love this
Hi, Diane. I have learned so so much from you. I celebrate your knowledge, skills and gerenosity. This seems to be the best way to fit different cup sizes, but I was wondering, the apex is moved? Is it right? My apex is 9cm away from the center front and now it is 9.6cm. I'm concerned about this. Thank you.
Thanks so much for this information. I have purchased your Block Drafting instructions from your Etsy site but I cannot find this "Change your cup size ..." pdf anywhere. How can I obtain a copy of this on pdf? I would like to add to my binder on pattern drafting. Thanks
Hi Diane, please could you tell me if I can just do the adjustment to the front and leave the under arm deduction, as my muslin at the back fits well, it's the front that is tight and looks out of position. I have learned so much from your videos, thank you. x
Hi Diane, thanx for excellent tutorial. I have a question, if I use my bust measurement when drafting the personal block, will it be necessary for me to do a bust adjustment?
Hello Zanap,
I think the adjustment according to the cup size is only if you are 2 sizes of cup or more away from a B cup, D and up or AA
Or if you usually have a problem with commercial garments because of the size of the cup.
Diane
Amazing video Diane! ❤️
Your tutorials are amazing I just wish you could write a book about drafting to go alongside your vlogs. 🤔
Hello Katherine,
I did, and I'm now working on the traduction. hopefully it will be available soon.
Diane
Hiiii diane , it has been a smooth learning ever since but i want to know if i can do grading up before cup size adjustments because grading up can increase the length of bodice therefore may not need a length adjustment right? Thanks
Life saving video! Not easy for a E-cup to with a small waist to find the fitting patterns and clothes.
Although I have one question, how do you find your pivot/breast circumference on the new pattern?
Thanks for your videos
Hello Sam,
To trace the circle, add 0.5 cm or about 1/4 in. to the radius for each cup size.
B cup 7.5 cm or 2.95 in.
E cup 9 cm or 3.54 in.
Diane
@@DianeDezieltoolfully thank you very much 🥰
Another brilliant tutorial. I have almost finished my bodice block. Quick question, does this method work if I need to lower my apex first? Do I still connect the shoulder dart to my new apex point?
Hello salma,
Yes you should lower the apex first.
Yes you still connect apex to shoulder and to waist. you might just have a little bigger line correction at the shoulder but it's normal.
Diane
Hello diane, please explain to my why I need to adjust the cup size even when the basic bodice fits accurately on my bust. Thank you
Hello Julia,
If it fit good don't make any changes.
These modifications are for a big difference in the cup size, since the block is a standard B cup, it could be all right even for a C cup, but not for a DD, I even had questions about H cup. same thing for smaller cup like AA.
Diane
Thank you diane
I can't thank you enough ❤️
Great lesson! thank you
Thank you so much Diane.
I will try this method on my base pattern. Could you please cinfirm to me that base body patter I purchase from your side it is also design with cut B?
Thank you 😘
Hello Mm FF,
Yes it is
Diane
What about the shoulders if you choose a pattern for the circumference of the bust for a larger cup won't the shoulders be to big?
Hi Diane, thanx for your excellent tutorial, I used my personal measurements for this tutorial, everything worked out fine, its just that when I measure the dart bust width I get 7 cm. According to various pattern books a 97cm bust (my bust size,) dart size should be 8.2 cm. I don't understand this.
Hello Zanap
You should not worry with that because the width (depth) of a dart depend on where it is on the contour of the pattern piece.
Example: if you send the dart at the side seam it will be a smaller measure but the same adjusment.
The depth of the darts is also a lot according to the cup size.
The important is that it fit you good
Diane
Great tutorial, thank you so much. I am adjusting a block that I drafted which also goes all the way down to the hipline. After using your method, of course I now have extra width at the hipline. Is it OK to reduce the size of the waist dart to reshape teh waist and then re-draw down to the hip? Or will that lose the gain at the bust-line? Actually, I don't think it will. I've added 4 cm at the bust, and will now remove 2cm each side of the waist dart, and bring in the waist 4cm at the side, then redraw the hip. I'll report back, in case anyone else has used this method.
Hello Tamsin
To change the cup size, it should not change the all around bust measurement.
I'm not adding I'm just moving the value, remove from back (2/3) and front (1/3) side seam at the under arm point.
Then add it back to the apex, (1/3) to the center front piece and (2/3) to the side piece.
Try your best to keep the waist and below untouched.
Diane
Diane Deziel Thanks. Because my block went down to the hip, the extra cms at the bust had to be removed again from the waist and hip. I did this evenly across the side seam and waist dart, the redrew the hip line. All was good! Made a quick toile and it's looking really promising. This block was not made using your method though. I'm going to start again and draft using your method for everything. So many exciting possibilities. Thanks again. I'm hooked on your tutorials.
can you show us how to do contouring with deep necklines please.
very good
Madam, please can you make another adjust bodice for cup tutorial with armhole princess cut
thanks a lot
Machallah !👍
how do I adjust for a full bust and add extra front length from neck to waist?
Hello Ramila
the PDF to modify according to cup size is in my WIX SITE : dianedezie7.wixsite.com/toolfully
If you must elongate, most probably from center front to the dart, add what you need moving also the dart parallel down.
then close the dart and connect with the side seam with a soft "s" shape line.
I hope this could help
Diane
merci madame pour tes magnifique cours mais le son de la védeo est trés faible
Mam plzz kya ap hindi me bta sakti hi...🙇
I believe that you presume too much. You are working under the assumption that the cup size requires an increase but the bust measurement itself is the pattern size. I tell you from experience that this will flatten, squish, a large bust and cut at the arm scythe. Cutting down a bigger pattern is more work than enlarging the bust when everything else fits. Or am I missing something?