one of the best waves of my life was at Rincon years ago. Big swell, got my first ever full stand up barrel there. Gets crazy crowded when its good but on small off days you can score a good longboard sesh with some waist high waves and a only 8-10 people out.
a few years back I had my friend fly out to meet me and he had never been to California. my friend who lives in Goleta told me there would be a small pulse that might catch people off guard. we waited until 9 to get there to let the tide switch from outgoing to incoming. riding by you wouldn't have thought much of it but one waist high wave rolled through and I caught it on the old 7'5" O'Hare and my friend was down the line paddling for it with our 8'0" foamie that came with the rental house. he had some sciatic issues and it took him about five seconds to get to his feet and I yelled "GO!!!" so he knew I was behind him. we both rode that wave from the cove to the highway with him going as fast as he could and I was doing slow roller coasters behind him. one of the coolest rides we've ever had!
My girlfriend gifted me your book for my birthday, just want to say thanks for the great work you put out! Your writing is every bit as good as your video making!
Surf Malibu in the 80’s when I didn’t have a car and was T the mercy of RFF’s (regular foot friends). Other then the crowds I did develope a strong backhand that has paid off in my long Surfin life. God bless
I consider myself a basic intermediate surfer. I usually ride long board. When I was at Waimea this winter it was around 12 ft. Needless to say I didn't go in😁
waimea bay is one of my favorite beaches. i remember the first time i was there as a kid i took off on like a 3ft wave in the shore break and got absolutely drilled😂
Never once have i looked at Margret River and thought it was a decent break. Average at best. It deserves no recognition. The box on the other hand, now THAT is an all time break.
big steamer is beautiful but the main break , right, is not good. too mushy and the left is too short. however if you sit to the left and wait for the waves that have a little south in them...now your talking...Indicators can be great. No borad surfing for me anymore however I surf it now at ultra low tides in my kayak wihen the kelp is at its worst. No fins on the kayak.
Love these episodes 🤙🏼
Thanks mate!!
one of the best waves of my life was at Rincon years ago. Big swell, got my first ever full stand up barrel there. Gets crazy crowded when its good but on small off days you can score a good longboard sesh with some waist high waves and a only 8-10 people out.
a few years back I had my friend fly out to meet me and he had never been to California. my friend who lives in Goleta told me there would be a small pulse that might catch people off guard. we waited until 9 to get there to let the tide switch from outgoing to incoming. riding by you wouldn't have thought much of it but one waist high wave rolled through and I caught it on the old 7'5" O'Hare and my friend was down the line paddling for it with our 8'0" foamie that came with the rental house. he had some sciatic issues and it took him about five seconds to get to his feet and I yelled "GO!!!" so he knew I was behind him. we both rode that wave from the cove to the highway with him going as fast as he could and I was doing slow roller coasters behind him. one of the coolest rides we've ever had!
@@jiblet-on2bsYEEEEWWW! dude thats freaking awesome!
My girlfriend gifted me your book for my birthday, just want to say thanks for the great work you put out! Your writing is every bit as good as your video making!
Thank you so much!! So stoked you enjoyed the book Matty!!
Surf Malibu in the 80’s when I didn’t have a car and was T the mercy of RFF’s (regular foot friends). Other then the crowds I did develope a strong backhand that has paid off in my long Surfin life. God bless
Waimea is so fun but yeah, sitting in the lineup has a weird feeling to it
I f##kn love open ocean waves, its almost all I surf.
how did you get started into fulltime freelance copywriting? such an inspiring journey thank you
In episode 3 don't forget to include Narragansett Beach
I consider myself a basic intermediate surfer. I usually ride long board. When I was at Waimea this winter it was around 12 ft. Needless to say I didn't go in😁
Hahah yeah fair enough 😂
At least you paddled out at weimea. Many of us never had a chance to do just that to see big waves up close.
waimea bay is one of my favorite beaches. i remember the first time i was there as a kid i took off on like a 3ft wave in the shore break and got absolutely drilled😂
honestly go to uppers or cottons (above uppers) at trestles its still an insane break but less crowded .still too crowded though
FYI 0:50 is Topanga Beach, 6 miles east from Malibu, not as good but also not as crowded
Absolutely, aka Topangry ahah
Hello Dan
The best wave you didn’t mention is Diamond head Oahu
Got fair share great days of surf both at Malibu and rincon even with light crowds because I lived in the area
Sick!!
@@DanHarmon123 yeah usually during long run of swell or during in between storms wind changes
Do an east coast us wave
Rincon? you zoomed in on pitas point, rincon is 2 points north.
9:05 who is that? those turns are so amazing
Victor Bernardo
@@Iowa-dy2mi thanks!
@@OM3N1R no problem
When you zoomed in pretty sure that was Faria not Rincon
Definitely Faria, you can tell by the houses, but an easy mistake to make if you're not a local
Never once have i looked at Margret River and thought it was a decent break. Average at best. It deserves no recognition. The box on the other hand, now THAT is an all time break.
Hossegor?
Mundaka?
Yeah could be in there for sure!!
@@DanHarmon123 legend❤️
Big Steamers beats all these other California waves.
Shhhh
big steamer is beautiful but the main break , right, is not good. too mushy and the left is too short. however if you sit to the left and wait for the waves that have a little south in them...now your talking...Indicators can be great. No borad surfing for me anymore however I surf it now at ultra low tides in my kayak wihen the kelp is at its worst. No fins on the kayak.
Steamers? Almost as weak as Margret River. Its an average wave that looks like full slop. Even big it looks weak.
Kook
Thanks...