I guess it's been a few years since someone has commented here. Driving my w-210 fun fixer upper around the Chicago area today. wanted to thank you for the tutorial with the further note that these helpful videos continue to spread Goodwill for many years to come. I have enjoyed tinkering with w210s and w211s but among other complaints that vest themselves as endearing the w210 sedan cabin is not exactly large by North American standards and the complexity of the vent controls is laughable.
agreed . the vent controls are a tad overdone . Now all cars have become overdone . 3 knobs with a cable controlling flaps on old school cars was impossible to break .
The flaps are vacuum controlled . When you press the gas pedal there is a change in vacuum so the flaps can slightly close . There should be a compensation valve to keep the flaps in the same place , but these can slightly leak over the years .
defroster will mean at windshield, and from what I can tell by testing my car,defroster leak (tiny amount of air coming through ) is at both side defrost vents and windshield.. I may be wrong..but that is the description from the manual,and I hope I'm understanding it correctly
+fupabox hi, hope all is well.. Im having issues with my w202.. there is no air coming out the center vents its all coming out the defroster for the windshild.. and the tow side vents..nothing out the center.. Ive pushed every button but still can't get the air to come out the center..also dont think my air circulation is activating
+Vaklev Kalpatrick Bastian the distribution box for the vacuum lines for the climate system is behind the glovebox.. there is likely a leak in one of the hoses back there, or a broken actuator for the diverter flap... I would check the distribution box first
You mentioned the center flaps not blowing in your face with heat. Does the same apply to cold air? Can’t get my center claps to work or my floor vents either
Hi. Thanks for the video. I have some questions: U noted that air may also leak at defroster vents during most of the test. Is that the vents at the front, at the windshield or the ones for the side windows ? Test#6: does left defrost mean at windshield or at left door. The reason I'm doing the tests is because I don't think I'm getting enough defrost air at the front windshield. Thanks.
Craig...Just saw this video..Crazy that you posted this...I've had an little issue with my center vent. It still blows cold air when climate unit is OFF. I know MB had the NO heat in the face policy due to safety issue...but I believe this may be a bad element behind the dash, which controls the ventilation system in the CLK's. (There's multiple Elements that control the vent flaps.) I wonder if your test can pin point if its actually a bad element in the center vent outlet ..your thoughts? Thanks bro.
@fupabox Thanks for all of your videos! You've saved me a ton of money on brakes, brake switch replacement and other things. Question today: On my 2001 W208 CLK320 Cab...HVAC system has suddenly resolved itself to do one thing only, regardless of the settings: it blows up through the defrost vents and through the far left and right passenger vents. I can't get any air from the l/r center dash vents. The temp can be adjusted warm or A/C and the A/C still blows cold. I conducted the "flap test" via the head unit, nothing changed on every test. Any idea where else I need to start looking or what's broke? Let me know at your convenience. Thanks in advance man! Dave / Woodstock, GA
likely a leak in the vacuum flap system under the dash. The main vacuum distribution block is behind the glovebox, and most of the flaps can be accessed from there or under under dash covers on both sides. Check first that the vacuum operated rear headrests work properly.. if not them the vacuum pump in the trunk could also be leaking, a Vacuum tester can be used to see if there are any leaks, as can a mouthful of cigarette/cigar smoke blown into a vacuum line.
What if you got the manual climate control with the two dials for speed and fan position ? Is there a way to test the vent flaps on that? I wish my car had this unit fitted... It's a weird model to be honest 2000 w210 e320 m112 No aircon Leather seats which aren't heated And it's an elegance trim ... Can't believe someone picked out this car new without those two options. I think this will be my third and maybe the last Mercedes ... Although I'm very tempted by a newer facelift w203 wagon 2004/2005 Or same year w211 wagon... Maybe they'll sway back Stuttgart back to no1 for me, because right now I'm having more and more Bavaria thoughts .... Lol
+UDontKnoAThing Old Bimmers are great reliable cars..I've had many of them.. just crappy seat materials, otherwise well built and easy to work on. The only possibility for a vent flap test on that version of the climate control would be to press the recirculation and front defrost buttons at the same time, and hold both down until the lights on them flash back and forth.. That should cycle and reset the vent flap values.. it takes a few minutes for it to check and activate all the flaps .. it works on the w203 and some w202s so possibly on yours
+Dragon 5715bIt's somewhere in the service manual workshop-manuals.com/mercedesbenz/clk_320_(208.365)/v6-3.2l_(112.940)/heating_and_air_conditioning/heater_core/component_information/locations/
Hey FUPABOX was up great video lots of info... question?? my vents are not working when i press the buttons to change the directions. Reason is that all my buttons are stuck. Meaning. they dont pop up or not click they seem to stuck or jammed. Any info on this
something must have spilled on them . You can gently pop them off and see if they are gummed up from behind . If not , just swap out the whole unit ...they are pretty cheap at wrecking yards
+Dragon 5715 You have a w209 which has different codes.. I can't find the flap test codes for yours, but many vent flap issues can be resolved with a new cabin air filter, and a reset of the vents.. to reset the vents turn the ignition to position 2..turn the fan speed to high, turn the right vent knob to the straight up position..then press the recirc and windhield defrost buttons at the same time...hold them until they start to blink side to side. let them blink back and forth for a few minutes...they may or may not stop blinking on their own. Then turn the ignition off then start the car and see if they work properly. If they are still not working try it with the car running..it may take a few tries to reset them
Hey, could you tell us how to reset the vents on a w208? (I tried the instructions above for the w209 and they didn't work) Unless for the w208 this vent flap test does the reset?
hello bro thanks for your nice videos . i have an issue with my clk 1998 while driving the ac at first works fine and cooling and then while the car is in idle the air blowing is hot after i drive around the air is cool again do you have any idea what to do ??
sounds like the coolant charge is a bit low .. when the engine is running at a higher speed , so does the compressor for the a/c ..it then can push enough refrigerant to make cold air ..at idle there isn't enough refrigerant that the compressor can circulate it. I'm betting a top off of refrigerant will solve the issue
I have a 98 w210 and whenever the heater is on, the main center vents barely blow any air. But when they A/C is on, cool air blows normally. Any ideas on what this could be? I sure as hell hope its not something with the heater core. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Your car is behaving as it should.. Mercedes doesn't believe you want warm air blowing in your face (myself I like the warm centre vent air when I'm freezing, but it's not in the programming for the HVAC in these cars)
***** Was that only on the '98 models? My dad has a '99 E300TD and he told me that his center vents blow hot air. I believe its been serviced before, could the mechanic have messed with it?
I have a 2001 CLK 320 Cabriolet I am getting a loud squeal sound from my air circulating system it is not constant. It comes on and off when the circulating system is turned on. Sometimes it even happens after I turn the car off an pull the key out. I have heard that this might be a leaky vacuum flap. Wondering if you have an answer and a fix. Ever since the DR put me on hearing aids, it really bothers me. Before that, I could hardly hear it> :)
It can also make that sound depending on whether you have the dash vents manually closed.. I would check for a clogged cabin air filter before blaming the air flaps...junk can get into the vents near the main recirc. flap and help cause squeeling as well
Pete DeBoer no...only if the "rest " button is somehow stuck.The "rest" function turns the heater fan on low for a few minutes to keep the interior warm in winter while you are not in the car. Otherwise the fan shouldn't come on with the car off
I pulled the filter out, it was full of "stuff" Thought I had fixed the squeal, I have ordered a replacement filter. About 10 minutes in to a squeal free ride, the high pitched noise came back. Do you think it might be a vacuum flap? How do I get to it?
Maybe somebody can help me out on this one. I have a W209 (LHD). I already replace stepper motor and arm for M2/10 (Left footwell). I ran multiple of OBD scan tool (Snap-on, Icarsoft and even MB Star C5) and it only picked up M2/11 (right footwell). I 'm planing to change that before winter. I will be changing the cabin carbon filter under the glove box in the coming weeks (parts in transit) Never been changed before). I have notice the driver side front defrost is hardly blowing any air (M2/8) the passenger side front defrost (M2/9) is working flawless. When I do the pre-test the driver side front defrost open and then the flap will closed after that. It's bugging me trying to figure out what is going on and if some one can give me some direction on how to resolve this. This will be great!
I’ve been meaning to post on one of your tutorials and your clips are top notch! You helped me out a good amount in the past, it seems we have a taste for similar MB models. Are you up in Canada? I noticed your temp readout displayed ‘celcius’. Looks like I might have an evap leak on my 208 55. :( I plan on running your diagnostic test this weekend.
fupabox You guys have it good up there when it comes to importing cars! Similar to when I lived in the U.K. You’re no doubt savvy when it comes to these cars. As I previously stated, it appears my A/C evap behind the dash might be leaking. I noticed some type of bright green dye on my driveway under the passenger side about 8-10 months after purchasing the car a year ago. When I renewed my safety inspection the inspector raised my car on a lift and told me it looked like it was dripping from the evap area. He did not have the time to perform a thorough inspection. I rarely use the A/C, but it definitely helps with overwhelming humidity or heavy rain. Would the test in your clip reveal the evap as being the culprit part? I’d be very much interested to hear the steps you would take in trying to get things sorted. I’m tempted to try one of the A/C refill kits. I heard mixed reviews on them. Any insight you might be able to provide me with would be appreciated!! No rush, if you happen to have a min or two to spare. Cheers
I've used the a/c refill kits many times with no issues. The refrigerant has a fluorescent dye in it .. a UV light will allow any leak to glow when you use the UV light on it ina dark garage . Evap would be bad since the whole dash needs to come out to replace the evaporator .. heres a terrifying sped up evap replacement . ruclips.net/video/I3OAiyX3mnM/видео.html If you trace the leak back to the evap , then I would try an a/c system sealant first... The heater core and evap replacement I did once many years ago .. it was a 2 day nightmare of swearing . The only test you could do is the system pressure test ...it's somewhere on my w208 playlist . if the pressure in the system is ok , or close to it , the evap should be fine .. it can't hold pressure if it is leaking , and if it is only a teeny tiny leak , a sealant will hopefully save a lot of time and swear words
fupabox Thanks, I really appreciate you taking the time to respond back to me! I’m going to try one of the A/C refill kits. I hope it holds for good, but if it lasts for the next 3-4 months that would be nice too. I can live with a refill once a year during the warmer months if the refrigerant sticks. I refuse to let a shop pull my dash, these cars are put together so tight I feel it would never be put back the same. I plan on running the error test this evening. I’m not sure if this procedure is capable of detecting an evap leak. Thanks again for your help!!
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I guess it's been a few years since someone has commented here. Driving my w-210 fun fixer upper around the Chicago area today. wanted to thank you for the tutorial with the further note that these helpful videos continue to spread Goodwill for many years to come.
I have enjoyed tinkering with w210s and w211s but among other complaints that vest themselves as endearing the w210 sedan cabin is not exactly large by North American standards and the complexity of the vent controls is laughable.
agreed . the vent controls are a tad overdone . Now all cars have become overdone . 3 knobs with a cable controlling flaps on old school cars was impossible to break .
This is a great video explanation. Any ideas on why the airflow slows under acceleration and returns at normal speed?
The flaps are vacuum controlled . When you press the gas pedal there is a change in vacuum so the flaps can slightly close . There should be a compensation valve to keep the flaps in the same place , but these can slightly leak over the years .
@@fupabox thanks. Where is the valve located?
@@fupabox do you have diagram of vacuum lines for A/C?
defroster will mean at windshield, and from what I can tell by testing my car,defroster leak (tiny amount of air coming through ) is at both side defrost vents and windshield.. I may be wrong..but that is the description from the manual,and I hope I'm understanding it correctly
must be something in these new settings I can't figure out..I tried to reply to "Terry Gee's" post and It said I wasn't allowed..LOL..who knows
+fupabox hi, hope all is well.. Im having issues with my w202.. there is no air coming out the center vents its all coming out the defroster for the windshild.. and the tow side vents..nothing out the center.. Ive pushed every button but still can't get the air to come out the center..also dont think my air circulation is activating
+Vaklev Kalpatrick Bastian the distribution box for the vacuum lines for the climate system is behind the glovebox.. there is likely a leak in one of the hoses back there, or a broken actuator for the diverter flap... I would check the distribution box first
You mentioned the center flaps not blowing in your face with heat. Does the same apply to cold air? Can’t get my center claps to work or my floor vents either
Hi. Thanks for the video. I have some questions:
U noted that air may also leak at defroster vents during most of the test. Is that the vents at the front, at the windshield or the ones for the side windows ?
Test#6: does left defrost mean at windshield or at left door.
The reason I'm doing the tests is because I don't think I'm getting enough defrost air at the front windshield. Thanks.
Craig...Just saw this video..Crazy that you posted this...I've had an little issue with my center vent. It still blows cold air when climate unit is OFF. I know MB had the NO heat in the face policy due to safety issue...but I believe this may be a bad element behind the dash, which controls the ventilation system in the CLK's. (There's multiple Elements that control the vent flaps.) I wonder if your test can pin point if its actually a bad element in the center vent outlet ..your thoughts?
Thanks bro.
The fresh air/recirc flap slams shut with authority more often than not. Is this a common issue, or do you know of a fix please?
@fupabox Thanks for all of your videos! You've saved me a ton of money on brakes, brake switch replacement and other things. Question today: On my 2001 W208 CLK320 Cab...HVAC system has suddenly resolved itself to do one thing only, regardless of the settings: it blows up through the defrost vents and through the far left and right passenger vents. I can't get any air from the l/r center dash vents. The temp can be adjusted warm or A/C and the A/C still blows cold. I conducted the "flap test" via the head unit, nothing changed on every test. Any idea where else I need to start looking or what's broke? Let me know at your convenience. Thanks in advance man! Dave / Woodstock, GA
likely a leak in the vacuum flap system under the dash. The main vacuum distribution block is behind the glovebox, and most of the flaps can be accessed from there or under under dash covers on both sides. Check first that the vacuum operated rear headrests work properly.. if not them the vacuum pump in the trunk could also be leaking, a Vacuum tester can be used to see if there are any leaks, as can a mouthful of cigarette/cigar smoke blown into a vacuum line.
Hey dead fan, my 2000 c280 just started having the same issue as you described. Did you get issue resolved? If so how did you fix it? Thanks
What if you got the manual climate control with the two dials for speed and fan position ? Is there a way to test the vent flaps on that?
I wish my car had this unit fitted...
It's a weird model to be honest
2000 w210 e320 m112
No aircon
Leather seats which aren't heated
And it's an elegance trim ...
Can't believe someone picked out this car new without those two options.
I think this will be my third and maybe the last Mercedes ... Although I'm very tempted by a newer facelift w203 wagon 2004/2005
Or same year w211 wagon... Maybe they'll sway back Stuttgart back to no1 for me, because right now I'm having more and more Bavaria thoughts .... Lol
+UDontKnoAThing Old Bimmers are great reliable cars..I've had many of them.. just crappy seat materials, otherwise well built and easy to work on. The only possibility for a vent flap test on that version of the climate control would be to press the recirculation and front defrost buttons at the same time, and hold both down until the lights on them flash back and forth.. That should cycle and reset the vent flap values.. it takes a few minutes for it to check and activate all the flaps .. it works on the w203 and some w202s so possibly on yours
Hi, should we set all codes low to high ? İf i set all high , after restart they show low again. What does it mean
do you have any tear down procedures for the dash so I can get at the defrost actuator motor??? thanks
+Dragon 5715bIt's somewhere in the service manual workshop-manuals.com/mercedesbenz/clk_320_(208.365)/v6-3.2l_(112.940)/heating_and_air_conditioning/heater_core/component_information/locations/
Hey FUPABOX was up great video lots of info... question?? my vents are not working when i press the buttons to change the directions. Reason is that all my buttons are stuck. Meaning. they dont pop up or not click they seem to stuck or jammed. Any info on this
something must have spilled on them . You can gently pop them off and see if they are gummed up from behind . If not , just swap out the whole unit ...they are pretty cheap at wrecking yards
2003 clk 320, got a 17 and 18 code. Issue is no air blowing on driver side windshield, i dont see those codes in your description at all
thanks
+Dragon 5715 You have a w209 which has different codes.. I can't find the flap test codes for yours, but many vent flap issues can be resolved with a new cabin air filter, and a reset of the vents.. to reset the vents turn the ignition to position 2..turn the fan speed to high, turn the right vent knob to the straight up position..then press the recirc and windhield defrost buttons at the same time...hold them until they start to blink side to side. let them blink back and forth for a few minutes...they may or may not stop blinking on their own. Then turn the ignition off then start the car and see if they work properly. If they are still not working try it with the car running..it may take a few tries to reset them
Hey, could you tell us how to reset the vents on a w208? (I tried the instructions above for the w209 and they didn't work)
Unless for the w208 this vent flap test does the reset?
I have a 2005 clk 320 convertible with the center console stuck in the upright position...? any thoughts?
I would unscrew the hinge and remove the lid to see what's up with it being stuck.. sorry not much help
hello bro
thanks for your nice videos . i have an issue with my clk 1998 while driving the ac at first works fine and cooling and then while
the car is in idle the air blowing is hot after i drive around the air is cool again do you have any idea what to do ??
sounds like the coolant charge is a bit low .. when the engine is running at a higher speed , so does the compressor for the a/c ..it then can push enough refrigerant to make cold air ..at idle there isn't enough refrigerant that the compressor can circulate it. I'm betting a top off of refrigerant will solve the issue
fupabox thanks for your reply. What should I do in this case. Add more gas ?
yes... it most likely needs just about 1/2 a can
I have a 98 w210 and whenever the heater is on, the main center vents barely blow any air. But when they A/C is on, cool air blows normally. Any ideas on what this could be? I sure as hell hope its not something with the heater core. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Your car is behaving as it should.. Mercedes doesn't believe you want warm air blowing in your face (myself I like the warm centre vent air when I'm freezing, but it's not in the programming for the HVAC in these cars)
*****
Was that only on the '98 models? My dad has a '99 E300TD and he told me that his center vents blow hot air. I believe its been serviced before, could the mechanic have messed with it?
I have a 2001 CLK 320 Cabriolet I am getting a loud squeal sound from my air circulating system it is not constant. It comes on and off when the circulating system is turned on. Sometimes it even happens after I turn the car off an pull the key out. I have heard that this might be a leaky vacuum flap. Wondering if you have an answer and a fix. Ever since the DR put me on hearing aids, it really bothers me. Before that, I could hardly hear it> :)
It can also make that sound depending on whether you have the dash vents manually closed.. I would check for a clogged cabin air filter before blaming the air flaps...junk can get into the vents near the main recirc. flap and help cause squeeling as well
Thanks, i will check the filter. Woud the clogged filter still squeal after the engine is shut down.
Pete DeBoer no...only if the "rest " button is somehow stuck.The "rest" function turns the heater fan on low for a few minutes to keep the interior warm in winter while you are not in the car. Otherwise the fan shouldn't come on with the car off
I pulled the filter out, it was full of "stuff" Thought I had fixed the squeal, I have ordered a replacement filter. About 10 minutes in to a squeal free ride, the high pitched noise came back. Do you think it might be a vacuum flap? How do I get to it?
My car is making that squealing noise too when air conditioner is on did you find out your problem?
Thanks
Maybe somebody can help me out on this one. I have a W209 (LHD). I already replace stepper motor and arm for M2/10 (Left footwell). I ran multiple of OBD scan tool (Snap-on, Icarsoft and even MB Star C5) and it only picked up M2/11 (right footwell). I 'm planing to change that before winter. I will be changing the cabin carbon filter under the glove box in the coming weeks (parts in transit) Never been changed before).
I have notice the driver side front defrost is hardly blowing any air (M2/8) the passenger side front defrost (M2/9) is working flawless. When I do the pre-test the driver side front defrost open and then the flap will closed after that. It's bugging me trying to figure out what is going on and if some one can give me some direction on how to resolve this. This will be great!
i have a 99 clk430 and all vents worl properly except the far left smaller vent. it shoots warm air no matter the temperature its set to, any ideas?
I would suspect a flap actuator.. odd how it would be warm air though
hello, thank you for the vid please help clk 320 99 cent ac vent not working
does any one.know what could cause the issues Nd repair.
please thNk you
+thegsilvia69 If you have done the vent flap test , it is likely there is a problem with the vacuum actuator for the center vent
+fupabox thank you, by any chance you would know where it is located
thanks again
thegsilvia69 you should be able to access it from the panel under the glovebox
+fupabox thanks for everything
I’ve been meaning to post on one of your tutorials and your clips are top notch! You helped me out a good amount in the past, it seems we have a taste for similar MB models. Are you up in Canada? I noticed your temp readout displayed ‘celcius’.
Looks like I might have an evap leak on my 208 55. :( I plan on running your diagnostic test this weekend.
PaulB Thank you .. yes Just outside of Toronto
fupabox You guys have it good up there when it comes to importing cars! Similar to when I lived in the U.K. You’re no doubt savvy when it comes to these cars. As I previously stated, it appears my A/C evap behind the dash might be leaking. I noticed some type of bright green dye on my driveway under the passenger side about 8-10 months after purchasing the car a year ago. When I renewed my safety inspection the inspector raised my car on a lift and told me it looked like it was dripping from the evap area. He did not have the time to perform a thorough inspection.
I rarely use the A/C, but it definitely helps with overwhelming humidity or heavy rain. Would the test in your clip reveal the evap as being the culprit part? I’d be very much interested to hear the steps you would take in trying to get things sorted. I’m tempted to try one of the A/C refill kits. I heard mixed reviews on them. Any insight you might be able to provide me with would be appreciated!! No rush, if you happen to have a min or two to spare. Cheers
I've used the a/c refill kits many times with no issues. The refrigerant has a fluorescent dye in it .. a UV light will allow any leak to glow when you use the UV light on it ina dark garage . Evap would be bad since the whole dash needs to come out to replace the evaporator .. heres a terrifying sped up evap replacement . ruclips.net/video/I3OAiyX3mnM/видео.html
If you trace the leak back to the evap , then I would try an a/c system sealant first... The heater core and evap replacement I did once many years ago .. it was a 2 day nightmare of swearing . The only test you could do is the system pressure test ...it's somewhere on my w208 playlist . if the pressure in the system is ok , or close to it , the evap should be fine .. it can't hold pressure if it is leaking , and if it is only a teeny tiny leak , a sealant will hopefully save a lot of time and swear words
fupabox Thanks, I really appreciate you taking the time to respond back to me! I’m going to try one of the A/C refill kits. I hope it holds for good, but if it lasts for the next 3-4 months that would be nice too. I can live with a refill once a year during the warmer months if the refrigerant sticks. I refuse to let a shop pull my dash, these cars are put together so tight I feel it would never be put back the same.
I plan on running the error test this evening. I’m not sure if this procedure is capable of detecting an evap leak. Thanks again for your help!!
A nice video but a person shouldn't have to go through all that just to turn the air on and stuff shouldn't be that complicated
I agree .. I would love a return to uncomplicated manual vents and controls .