I know it's been a while since you made this video, but it came so handy for me right now. Cheers for making an otherwise frightening job look so easy. You're right, apart from the one screw holding the pipe, the whole job was less fiddly than you would think. Cheers!
Brilliant video. I just bought a 2005 Vectra C 2.2 65,000 miles and passenger floor was very slightly damp under the top mat. I checked the bung and it was clogged with gunge. Such an easy job. RUclips video's are a lifesaver. Thank Liam. Liked and subscribed.
Thanks for the video.🏆 I just changed the resistor, what a ballache trying to get that little screw located that holda the bit of ducting in place. On my back, head under the footwell, with my legs over the top of the door. At 65 years old, I’m getting too old for this shit,🤣🤣🤣
Well explained, Liam. I have a similar problem at the moment with my Vectra C which comes pretty much at the total wrong moment as snow and ice does a good job here right now... but I'm gonna fix it.
Big like for you sir. Mine stoped working at all after a heavy rain and water în the passenger footwel. I beleive your tutorial Will save me out. Thank you again for sharing this video with us.
@@bigliam1970 It’s just gone again! So pissed off.. I bought it from Vauxhall dealership as well. I’ll be getting it from Amazon if they keep blowing like this.
Great Video Liam, Many Thanks! My fan motor was working intermittently and in all four positions, therefore assumed no problem with the resistor bank. However, after looking at your video and thinking a bit deeper, I decided to remove the pollen filter in the engine bay and could clearly see the motor. I then sprayed the motor with WD40, waited 10 mins, then switched on the fan. It started to run a bit better, so I repeated spraying with WD40 once more with the fan running, and obviously the WD40 managed to reach the necessary parts. It's running much better now, but the most important thing is that I didn't need to remove the facia, glove compartment or the motor! (P.S. The thing you called the armature, I believe is called a commutator.)
I have a 07 vectra c with all of the above problems now fixed The scuttle was completely blocked and the foot well soaking .I would recommend starting from the bottom when replacing the glove box screws
Brilliant video, thanks a lot! I thought im doing two faults(wet passenger floor and blow motor not working, but actually it is one problem.. amazing Opel/Vauxhall ;D
Good video - helped me. I only found mine on eBay and there are 2 versions, one being almost the mirror of the other: on ordering remove the faulty one and compare it to the online picture to check the indents in the socket and the way that the external component points. During fitting, the white socket pushes in (one way round only) and then slides into position - it must not fall out as it's supposed to be inside the fan housing and be cooled by air passing over it. It gets very hot.
Thanks for this. My Vectra just scraped through probably its last MOT yesterday and since picking it up from the garage I ran into the 1-2-3 not working but 4 does problem. This video means I can sort this out myself without investing too much money in the old girl. Been a great can and still runs lovely but body is failing badly now. Also, I just wonder if the second half of you video might help me to stop the squeaky/whirring noise my fan has been making for years. If I'm going to be fiddling about down there I may as well do that bit too. Thank you.
just got the water ingress and resistor issue, wise words with cheap parts catching on fire. I was about to order ebay part. I will go to dealers. nice one
There is something you should notice , that WD-40 will solve the grease which is located on the bearings ,and if you didn't grease it again with a thermal resistent grease it will wear out quickly .
I have situations that it won’t blow at all. Motor isn’t blocked because it’s working when I press direct blowing on windscreen but on speed (1,2,3 and 4) won’t working?
Great video! I had a similar problem, well still have. It started with a clicking noise when I was starting the motor: once when the key was turned in first position (power applied) it was clicking for like 3 seconds I was waiting for all the lights to go off and when I turned the key further to start the engine this clicking noise was happening one more time for another 3 seconds. It was like this for about 2-3 months, I was too busy fixing my van, so I left vectra for later. And then the air blower stopped working, it was only blowing air on 4th setting. Also I have noticed a smell of burned electric inside the car. I have just replaced the resistor and now the air blower is working fine on all 1-2-3-4 settings. However I still have that nasty clicking noise while starting the engine and shortly after. I did check different settings and once the engine is on this clicking noise is back again every time I turn on & off the inner circulation of air. I heard there are few motors there and it's a pain to get them replaced. Is that the reason for this clicking? Would you be so kind and advice, please?
Hello bud, the clicking you can hear is one of two (or possibly both!) of the servos that control the temperature and airflow respectively. The airflow servo is the one that switches between fresh air from outside, or recirculated air from within the car. Another very common fault with these cars. The gear wheels get worn and teeth break off. I can't remember which way round they are, but one servo is up behind the glove box and the other is down in the passenger footwell inside the centre console. There are plenty of vids on here which show you how to change these or a trick is to disassemble the servo unit (if you can get them out; fiddly job especially the one behind the glovebox) and turn the gear wheel 180 degrees and refit. Otherwise the servos can be obtained on Ebay or Amazon. In short, the clicking is not related to anything in this video - separate problem. Cheers
@@bigliam1970 Thank you so much for coming back to me, appreciate it a lot. I've managed to establish exactly what was causing this clicking noise - it was the heater flap control unit, so the one behind the glovebox. Indeed a fiddly job to take it off - that one screw behind is a nightmare to undo! I took it off and started the engine while it was still connected and without any doubt it was that one unit making this noise, so I disconnected it and ordered a replacement. Thanks again for uploading your video about the resistor. BTW I've managed to replace it without removing that bottom pipe, it's just a matter of disconnecting the plug first and then removing the resistor.
Hi, could you tell me whether the 2004 1.9cdti has the resistor in the same place? Just tried the instructions in this video but I couldn’t see the resistor pack anywhere - grateful for any advice :)
David Bowie Cheers bud.. yes you are right; I realised this a bit late in shooting/editing the vid. For the sake of pulling the trim off though it makes access to the torx screws that bit easier.
Hi, good video and well explained thank you. Before I start following in practice I just wanted to ask if you think I have the same fault. I have a 2008 Vectra and only number 1 on the fan has stopped. Numbers 2,3 and 4 are still fine hot or cold. Any thoughts if this is the same fault or something else? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Kevin.
Hello fella. This sounds very much like it is the fan speed switch that's at fault.. if the blower works on all speeds other than speed 1, I cant see it being the resistor. Have you got a multimeter that will allow you to do a current check through the speed switch.. you might be able to eliminate that if it is faulty
@@bigliam1970 Hi, thank you form your prompt response, No I don't have a multimeter, but its worth a look. I checked the front area outside think next to the Hepa filter that you mentioned and it was blocked solid, so have cleared and cleaned, so hopefully solved a future issue at least. I am down in Macedonia here, so I am due to take it to a local garage for some other works, I will get them to take a look, but thank you for your advice, very handy to know and also to know that they won't be replacing parts unnecessarily.
Excellent, helped me sort my blower. Do you know anything about why my indicators no longer make the click click sound? (Part from that they work perfectly)
In my situation it was blowing only on 4, after replacing the relay first (yes, check it first!) it was blowing on 3 and 4 and you can hear a click sound right away after turning it from 0 to 1, which didn't happen with the old one, and only then after checking the relay should you go for the resistor. My thoughts were that the burnt resistor burns the relay in some time aswell. Change both and you're pretty much secure. In other words, if you turn on the fan and don't hear a click sound, the relay is pretty much as dead as the resistor.
Hi mate. Interesting comment. I have 54 plate Vectra and I had basically same problem. First it all started with weird clicking noise while turning the key even before cranking, just when you turn the key to the first position that applies the power from the battery. It was like this for 2-3 months and then the air blower was only working on 4. I have just replaced the resistor and it did the trick - air blower is working on all 1-2-3-4. However I still have this nasty clicking sound while turning the key. Is that the relay that was burnt as well?
The clicking sound when you crank the car is caused by the temperature setting servo slipping teeth; another very common problem on these cars. The clicking will be coming from the centre console down in the passenger footwell.. more complicated job to get this sorted but there vids on RUclips that show how to do this 👍 A temporary fix for this is not to keep the temperature dial on lowest cold; take the temperature dial off the lowest setting and it won't click any more
@@bigliam1970 hi Liam. i had that same problem. My mechanic changed the resistor with a genuine one and it started working but only on the 4th speed like you demonstrated. After a while it just stopped working. So following your video I've managed to get the heater working in the 4th speed again but not the other speeds. The resistor doesn't appear to be blown either. Is there a way I can send you a picture of my restore please?
@@WizCreates hello mate.. this is unusual for a replacement resistor not curing the problem. Either the replacement is also faulty (possible non-genuine part perhaps?) or the blower motor is seizing to the point where it has blown the new resistor as soon it has been switched on. Did your mechanic undertake the second part of the vid? As in take the blower motor out and inspect/lubricate?? That would be my first port of call.
@@bigliam1970 thanks for the rapid response. No he didn't, he just replaced the resistor. But watching your video, I took the motor out and cleaned it with WD40. It was very dirty and stiff, it's still quite stiff tbh but working. I will buy a new resistor and try that. Thank you for your help.
Hi, I've got a problem with my blower, total opposite though. My fan works on 1, 2 and 3 but not long after I bought it, it started cutting out on 4, intermittently and then one day totally failed. Really wanting to fix this as I can no longer demist the windscreen. Any ideas mate?
Hello bud.. I would undertake a visual inspection of the resistor first; in my vid it shows the blown resistor alongside the new one. A blown resistor is fairly easy to spot. If the resistor is intact then you are probably looking at a faulty speed switch; this is not as common as a blown resistor, but it does happen. Golden rule; always start with the most obvious thing and then trace the fault backwards. Hope this helps mate.
I didn't have water in the footwell but my resistor had blown and the fan was squeaky so I did everything you did in this video anyway. I wish I had the flexi screwdriver because the torx allen key I used was a nightmare it took me an hour and half. The fan now works on all speeds but the WD40 smell is going to take some time to get rid of. The squeaky noise is not fixed it is worse.
Hello mate.. it might be possible then that you just have a knackered blower motor.. how long have you had the car?? It's possibly there was a water ingress problem before but was sorted and dried out??
bigliam1970 I've had the car 2 years. The fan has always been a little bit squeaky on '1' and '2' but ok on '3' and '4'. Sometimes just turning up to 4 for a second stops it squeaking. It suddenly went very loud and then quiet and it's stayed quiet since then. I think there is something loose stuff inside it somewhere. One thing I didn't do that you said you did in this video is clear it out with an "airline"? Is that one of those spray cans that spray air for dusting things where you can't get to with a dust cloth? I didn't do that. If I take the fan motor out again I will buy a flexi screwdriver to save time. The WD40 smell has gone. I'm happy that it works again now and the squeaky noise is now quieter and less squeaky than before, it was only worse temporarily. Great video mate thanks
Hi, I've followed this video. BUT nothing is happening in regards of blowing anything. Although it now click when you turn the switch on and through to setting four. Also light comes on if I put the front/back demister button but again nothing happens. Any clues?
My resistor has blown and the rear passenger footwell is drenched and has been for weeks... if I replace the resistor will that be a remedy for the wet floor or is that a separate issue. Is the water coming in the cause of the resistor blowing ? I did notice water dripping from the glove box the last time I was in the car wash
Hello mate, the water ingress will be caused by the blocked scuttle.. the blown resistor is almost certainly due to water contamination of the blower motor bearings.. follow all the steps in this vid and let the car dry out and it should solve the problem
if you don't want to buy a new a new resistor, you can simply bridge or replace the thermal fuse. located on the top of the assembly. it will then work as normal. done this loads of times, never had any comebacks. but make sure you sort the heater motor out first.
Down to the individual mate.. personally, I wouldn't want to mess about with a unit that can potentially cause a fire; I am of the opinion that a complete resistor unit is the best way - I would never 'bridge' anything that is designed to blow in the case of potential failure
@@bigliam1970 wouldn't argue with you one bit. Complete unit is the best way. But sometimes they are hard and some cases impossible to get. In these cases, then a repair is necessary
Hi, Good video mate. my partner has had this problem before and i replaced the resistor and all was fine for about 1 year, the resistors have failed again so it only works on 4, but this time it takes about 1 hour before we get any heat on setting 4 and its still not very hot just barely warm. My question is do the resistors also affect the heat output, or does she possibly have another problem, like the heating matrix needs cleaning out etc.
Hello bud.. the first time you replaced the heater resistor, did you lube up the blower motor like in the 2nd part of this vid?? If not, that could be the problem. If the bearings on the motor have corroded (very common issue) then the motor will be labouring causing the resistor to fail again. Another very common fault on these cars (specifically the 1.9 SRi diesel (150)) is that the thermostat fails periodically.. symptoms include no hot air as you describe, as well as the temp gauge not moving, suddenly shooting up and then dropping back down again. Deffo sounds like like thermostat to me.
@@bigliam1970 yes mate, that is exactly what is happening, temp gauge doesn't move even on long journeys, then suddenly jumps up to normal working temp. thanks bud.
@@bigliam1970 thanks for taking your time to reply managed to buy used full unit in perfect condition and have arranged to have it fitted thanks again all the best 👍
very nice video well done i just want to ask you i have vectra c 2004 so i wonder if you know or have part number for resistor please let me know many thanks
Thanks bud! I don't have a part number, I am afraid, but these resistor packs should be the same for your model - give your local vauxhall dealer a ring and get a part number from them 👍
hi i replaced my resistor it plugged in and has stopped the problem. but when putting the resistor back in it sits very loosely in the socket. it isn’t coming out all of the way but it isn’t securely sitting in the socket is this normal.
Hello mate; this isn't normal, no. Be careful as the resistor gets very hot during normal operation and if it isn't seated properly then it can melt whatever is around it. The resistor itself has a plastic ciip that should snap it into place; don't leave it loose. If in doubt get a mechanic to look at it; you don't want to risk a fire.
Brushes are the carbon contacts onto the commutator, do not spray them at all. The bushes he is referring to are at either end. The armature shaft ends spin in them.These you lubricate.
Really good video thanks for posting, heres a Valeo technical bulletin www.partinfo.co.uk/files/TSB%20AC015%2015%20Heater%20resistor%20509894%20failure.pdf which confirms your theory that the motor is causing the pack to blow. Thanks to your video I will now take my motor out to check the condition of it :-)
Hello mate, this is probably a speed selector fault - the resistor is designed to allow the full 12 volts from the cars electrics to flow through if it blows. Have you tried a different speed selector first? If this still doesn't work then it may be a relay issue, the relay being located on the fuse panel next to glove box (blue in colour). Process of elimination
@@VSTV1993 Understood mate; process of elimination will confrim where the fault lies. Again, I doubt your issue is the resistor. Let us all know however, because there's bound to be other people out there who have the same issue as you!
I replaced the resistor and it lasted 2 weeks the gone again....no water ingress.....in foot well....if I remove the blower should the fan be free spinning when checking?
Hello mate, the fan should spin freely, yes. If it is in any way stiff, it needs to be freed up as this is probably what is causing the resistor to blow
@@deanf9412 they worry me too! You have nothing to lose by disconnecting the battery for peace of mind if you feel the need. If you do disconnect the battery, make sure you have the four digit code to get your radio unlocked, and your electric Windows will need to be retrained
Google Boi hello mate.. This could a number of things but starting with the most obvious and working backwards: 1. The temp mixer is controlled by a servo, check your fuses to see if any have blown that relate to this part of the electrical system. 2. Are you getting a clicking noise from behind the dash when you turn your engine on or when turning the temp selector up/down? If so then you have a servo with a broken gear wheel (common fault on these cars). New servo needed (it is located behind the centre console and accessed through the footwells) or some people take the servo out, turn the affected gear wheel 180 degrees and put it back in again. 3. Does your temp gauge always show cold or hot (i.e. doesn't sit at a normal operating temp in between). If so, you could need a new thermostat (also a common issue on these cars). I think I'm right in saying that a thermostat might affect the heating system in terms of temperature of the air blown through the matrix. To be honest, my money is on a dodgy servo as they are frequently an issue on VC's I hope this helps.
Hello mate.. to be honest the dealer is taking the p*** at that price.. Euro Car Parts do one for £20.. www.eurocarparts.com/search/230720070?type=shopping&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIkbju3bTZ3QIV1jLTCh2s5AGYEAkYAiABEgIaMvD_BwE
Every Vectra c comes with a guarantee- you are guaranteed to get a leak in the passenger footwell after about 5 or 6 years. Its caused by a blocked rubber rain scuttle and you simply open the bonnet , reach down on the rhs of the passenger side bulkhead and Pull the rubber shoot off !! You throw it away and don't replace it. It serves NO purpose whatsoever except to give you a guaranteed leak into the car. End of problem .
I know it's been a while since you made this video, but it came so handy for me right now. Cheers for making an otherwise frightening job look so easy. You're right, apart from the one screw holding the pipe, the whole job was less fiddly than you would think. Cheers!
Brilliant video. I just bought a 2005 Vectra C 2.2 65,000 miles and passenger floor was very slightly damp under the top mat. I checked the bung and it was clogged with gunge. Such an easy job. RUclips video's are a lifesaver. Thank Liam. Liked and subscribed.
Nice one mate thank you
Thanks for the video.🏆
I just changed the resistor, what a ballache trying to get that little screw located that holda the bit of ducting in place.
On my back, head under the footwell, with my legs over the top of the door.
At 65 years old, I’m getting too old for this shit,🤣🤣🤣
Finally!!!! Clear simple straight forward instructions. Very informative I will now take apart my zafira 😂👍👍👍
Glad you found this useful fella..
Well explained, Liam. I have a similar problem at the moment with my Vectra C which comes pretty much at the total wrong moment as snow and ice does a good job here right now... but I'm gonna fix it.
Cheers bud
Great video. Had blower problems but now all sorted and saved some cash thanks to you.
I am genuinely pleased to hear that mate; thanks for the nice comment
Big like for you sir. Mine stoped working at all after a heavy rain and water în the passenger footwel.
I beleive your tutorial Will save me out.
Thank you again for sharing this video with us.
Hello mate..
Trust me; reading comments like yours makes it very much worthwhile. Thanks for your kind words
Good job mate, had the same problem plus squeaking fan I watched your video and fixed it, working as new now. Thanks
You're welcome mate.. cheers
I had the exact same problem which was solved by this tutorial. Cheers!
Thank you for this video, it helped me fix my blower in no time.
You are very welcome mate; thanks for your kind words
Appreciate your time mate helped immensely
You're welcome mucker..
And thanks to this I fixed my car! Many thanks
Awesome.. glad it helped mate
Great vid worked a treat replacing the resistor, cheers
Cheers mate
Top man! Copied this exactly as you said and now all blowers work a charm! Nice one! 👍🏼
Your welcome fella.. glad to help
@@bigliam1970 It’s just gone again! So pissed off.. I bought it from Vauxhall dealership as well. I’ll be getting it from Amazon if they keep blowing like this.
Great Video Liam, Many Thanks! My fan motor was working intermittently and in all four positions, therefore assumed no problem with the resistor bank. However, after looking at your video and thinking a bit deeper, I decided to remove the pollen filter in the engine bay and could clearly see the motor. I then sprayed the motor with WD40, waited 10 mins, then switched on the fan. It started to run a bit better, so I repeated spraying with WD40 once more with the fan running, and obviously the WD40 managed to reach the necessary parts. It's running much better now, but the most important thing is that I didn't need to remove the facia, glove compartment or the motor! (P.S. The thing you called the armature, I believe is called a commutator.)
Glad it worked for you mate.. cheers
Just had this happen to me.Changed the resister and blower works bang on.Great tips well done for the info.😎£14.50 auto factors.
Nice one mate.. glad I could help
Really helpful tutorial completely described the problem with our car ! Used your advice problem solved cheers pard
Proper pleased to hear that mate.. cheers..
Thank-you- great explanation; really helpful step-by-step!
Cheers mucker
I have a 07 vectra c with all of the above problems now fixed The scuttle was completely blocked and the foot well soaking .I would recommend starting from the bottom when replacing the glove box screws
Thank you, just did the job as described and working perfectly - saved me loads - Thank you very much.
Brilliant mate..
instablaster...
Brilliant video, thanks a lot! I thought im doing two faults(wet passenger floor and blow motor not working, but actually it is one problem.. amazing Opel/Vauxhall ;D
You're welcome mate, glad I could help
Just changed this great vid. I put in a new heat fuse with chock block
Amazing video Thank you so much
You're welcome my friend
Good video - helped me. I only found mine on eBay and there are 2 versions, one being almost the mirror of the other: on ordering remove the faulty one and compare it to the online picture to check the indents in the socket and the way that the external component points. During fitting, the white socket pushes in (one way round only) and then slides into position - it must not fall out as it's supposed to be inside the fan housing and be cooled by air passing over it. It gets very hot.
Yup.. this is confirmed in the video between 2:26 - 2:50.
Thanks for this. My Vectra just scraped through probably its last MOT yesterday and since picking it up from the garage I ran into the 1-2-3 not working but 4 does problem. This video means I can sort this out myself without investing too much money in the old girl. Been a great can and still runs lovely but body is failing badly now. Also, I just wonder if the second half of you video might help me to stop the squeaky/whirring noise my fan has been making for years. If I'm going to be fiddling about down there I may as well do that bit too. Thank you.
Glad to help bud..
just got the water ingress and resistor issue, wise words with cheap parts catching on fire. I was about to order ebay part. I will go to dealers. nice one
WEAPON HEADZ cheers my friend 😊
Great video thank you!
You're welcome bud
Thank you for your great instructions. This amateur managed to change the resistor switch and heater now works
Brilliant.. I am genuinely please the video assisted you 😊
There is something you should notice , that WD-40 will solve the grease which is located on the bearings ,and if you didn't grease it again with a thermal resistent grease it will wear out quickly .
That's a fair point to make; the WD40 was to free up the motor - ongoing lubrication should be something a little more heavy duty
I have situations that it won’t blow at all. Motor isn’t blocked because it’s working when I press direct blowing on windscreen but on speed (1,2,3 and 4) won’t working?
Where is the screw located to get the Heater pipe the blows it into the foot well removed?
Great video! I had a similar problem, well still have. It started with a clicking noise when I was starting the motor: once when the key was turned in first position (power applied) it was clicking for like 3 seconds I was waiting for all the lights to go off and when I turned the key further to start the engine this clicking noise was happening one more time for another 3 seconds. It was like this for about 2-3 months, I was too busy fixing my van, so I left vectra for later. And then the air blower stopped working, it was only blowing air on 4th setting. Also I have noticed a smell of burned electric inside the car.
I have just replaced the resistor and now the air blower is working fine on all 1-2-3-4 settings. However I still have that nasty clicking noise while starting the engine and shortly after. I did check different settings and once the engine is on this clicking noise is back again every time I turn on & off the inner circulation of air.
I heard there are few motors there and it's a pain to get them replaced. Is that the reason for this clicking? Would you be so kind and advice, please?
Hello bud, the clicking you can hear is one of two (or possibly both!) of the servos that control the temperature and airflow respectively. The airflow servo is the one that switches between fresh air from outside, or recirculated air from within the car.
Another very common fault with these cars. The gear wheels get worn and teeth break off.
I can't remember which way round they are, but one servo is up behind the glove box and the other is down in the passenger footwell inside the centre console.
There are plenty of vids on here which show you how to change these or a trick is to disassemble the servo unit (if you can get them out; fiddly job especially the one behind the glovebox) and turn the gear wheel 180 degrees and refit. Otherwise the servos can be obtained on Ebay or Amazon.
In short, the clicking is not related to anything in this video - separate problem.
Cheers
@@bigliam1970 Thank you so much for coming back to me, appreciate it a lot. I've managed to establish exactly what was causing this clicking noise - it was the heater flap control unit, so the one behind the glovebox. Indeed a fiddly job to take it off - that one screw behind is a nightmare to undo! I took it off and started the engine while it was still connected and without any doubt it was that one unit making this noise, so I disconnected it and ordered a replacement. Thanks again for uploading your video about the resistor. BTW I've managed to replace it without removing that bottom pipe, it's just a matter of disconnecting the plug first and then removing the resistor.
@@malkaart9808 no probs mate, glad you got it sorted.
Cheers matey I watched this and did it no problem and I’m not the best with motors so if I can do it anyone can thanks again
Cheers mate.. glad this helped 👍😁
Thanks!
You're welcome my friend.. 👍
Hi, could you tell me whether the 2004 1.9cdti has the resistor in the same place? Just tried the instructions in this video but I couldn’t see the resistor pack anywhere - grateful for any advice :)
Hello mate.. yes; all Vectra C's have the resistor in this location. Cheers.
Good vid the only thing I will add is you don’t have to take the dashboard trim to get to the glovebox screws
David Bowie Cheers bud.. yes you are right; I realised this a bit late in shooting/editing the vid. For the sake of pulling the trim off though it makes access to the torx screws that bit easier.
Hi, good video and well explained thank you. Before I start following in practice I just wanted to ask if you think I have the same fault. I have a 2008 Vectra and only number 1 on the fan has stopped. Numbers 2,3 and 4 are still fine hot or cold. Any thoughts if this is the same fault or something else?
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Kevin.
Hello fella.
This sounds very much like it is the fan speed switch that's at fault.. if the blower works on all speeds other than speed 1, I cant see it being the resistor.
Have you got a multimeter that will allow you to do a current check through the speed switch.. you might be able to eliminate that if it is faulty
@@bigliam1970 Hi, thank you form your prompt response, No I don't have a multimeter, but its worth a look.
I checked the front area outside think next to the Hepa filter that you mentioned and it was blocked solid, so have cleared and cleaned, so hopefully solved a future issue at least.
I am down in Macedonia here, so I am due to take it to a local garage for some other works, I will get them to take a look, but thank you for your advice, very handy to know and also to know that they won't be replacing parts unnecessarily.
@@kevinholland9800 no probs fella.. hope that helped
Excellent, helped me sort my blower.
Do you know anything about why my indicators no longer make the click click sound? (Part from that they work perfectly)
Nice one bud.. not sure about your indicators to be honest
In my situation it was blowing only on 4, after replacing the relay first (yes, check it first!) it was blowing on 3 and 4 and you can hear a click sound right away after turning it from 0 to 1, which didn't happen with the old one, and only then after checking the relay should you go for the resistor. My thoughts were that the burnt resistor burns the relay in some time aswell. Change both and you're pretty much secure. In other words, if you turn on the fan and don't hear a click sound, the relay is pretty much as dead as the resistor.
Hi mate. Interesting comment. I have 54 plate Vectra and I had basically same problem. First it all started with weird clicking noise while turning the key even before cranking, just when you turn the key to the first position that applies the power from the battery. It was like this for 2-3 months and then the air blower was only working on 4. I have just replaced the resistor and it did the trick - air blower is working on all 1-2-3-4. However I still have this nasty clicking sound while turning the key. Is that the relay that was burnt as well?
The clicking sound when you crank the car is caused by the temperature setting servo slipping teeth; another very common problem on these cars. The clicking will be coming from the centre console down in the passenger footwell.. more complicated job to get this sorted but there vids on RUclips that show how to do this 👍
A temporary fix for this is not to keep the temperature dial on lowest cold; take the temperature dial off the lowest setting and it won't click any more
Hi great video i have a vectra c and when i turn my air blower to setting hot i can smell a burning smell not sure what that is thanks
The blower pipe is held in with a 3MM allen bolt …. carefully hidden
Your a legend!
Nice one mucker!
@@bigliam1970 hi Liam. i had that same problem. My mechanic changed the resistor with a genuine one and it started working but only on the 4th speed like you demonstrated. After a while it just stopped working. So following your video I've managed to get the heater working in the 4th speed again but not the other speeds. The resistor doesn't appear to be blown either. Is there a way I can send you a picture of my restore please?
@@WizCreates hello mate.. this is unusual for a replacement resistor not curing the problem. Either the replacement is also faulty (possible non-genuine part perhaps?) or the blower motor is seizing to the point where it has blown the new resistor as soon it has been switched on.
Did your mechanic undertake the second part of the vid? As in take the blower motor out and inspect/lubricate??
That would be my first port of call.
@@bigliam1970 thanks for the rapid response. No he didn't, he just replaced the resistor. But watching your video, I took the motor out and cleaned it with WD40. It was very dirty and stiff, it's still quite stiff tbh but working. I will buy a new resistor and try that. Thank you for your help.
@@WizCreates you're welcome bud.. I hope it works ok for you now
Hi, I've got a problem with my blower, total opposite though. My fan works on 1, 2 and 3 but not long after I bought it, it started cutting out on 4, intermittently and then one day totally failed. Really wanting to fix this as I can no longer demist the windscreen. Any ideas mate?
Hello bud..
I would undertake a visual inspection of the resistor first; in my vid it shows the blown resistor alongside the new one. A blown resistor is fairly easy to spot.
If the resistor is intact then you are probably looking at a faulty speed switch; this is not as common as a blown resistor, but it does happen.
Golden rule; always start with the most obvious thing and then trace the fault backwards.
Hope this helps mate.
I didn't have water in the footwell but my resistor had blown and the fan was squeaky so I did everything you did in this video anyway. I wish I had the flexi screwdriver because the torx allen key I used was a nightmare it took me an hour and half. The fan now works on all speeds but the WD40 smell is going to take some time to get rid of. The squeaky noise is not fixed it is worse.
Hello mate.. it might be possible then that you just have a knackered blower motor.. how long have you had the car?? It's possibly there was a water ingress problem before but was sorted and dried out??
bigliam1970 I've had the car 2 years. The fan has always been a little bit squeaky on '1' and '2' but ok on '3' and '4'. Sometimes just turning up to 4 for a second stops it squeaking. It suddenly went very loud and then quiet and it's stayed quiet since then. I think there is something loose stuff inside it somewhere. One thing I didn't do that you said you did in this video is clear it out with an "airline"? Is that one of those spray cans that spray air for dusting things where you can't get to with a dust cloth? I didn't do that. If I take the fan motor out again I will buy a flexi screwdriver to save time. The WD40 smell has gone. I'm happy that it works again now and the squeaky noise is now quieter and less squeaky than before, it was only worse temporarily. Great video mate thanks
Galv140577 yes mate.. it sounds like you might just have a bad motor there.. might be worth checking local breakers for a replacement.. 😊
Hi, I've followed this video. BUT nothing is happening in regards of blowing anything. Although it now click when you turn the switch on and through to setting four. Also light comes on if I put the front/back demister button but again nothing happens. Any clues?
Hello Clare.
Is the blower motor spinning on any speed at all or is it dead?
My resistor has blown and the rear passenger footwell is drenched and has been for weeks... if I replace the resistor will that be a remedy for the wet floor or is that a separate issue. Is the water coming in the cause of the resistor blowing ?
I did notice water dripping from the glove box the last time I was in the car wash
Hello mate, the water ingress will be caused by the blocked scuttle.. the blown resistor is almost certainly due to water contamination of the blower motor bearings.. follow all the steps in this vid and let the car dry out and it should solve the problem
if you don't want to buy a new a new resistor, you can simply bridge or replace the thermal fuse. located on the top of the assembly. it will then work as normal. done this loads of times, never had any comebacks. but make sure you sort the heater motor out first.
Down to the individual mate.. personally, I wouldn't want to mess about with a unit that can potentially cause a fire; I am of the opinion that a complete resistor unit is the best way - I would never 'bridge' anything that is designed to blow in the case of potential failure
@@bigliam1970 wouldn't argue with you one bit. Complete unit is the best way. But sometimes they are hard and some cases impossible to get. In these cases, then a repair is necessary
@@seangriffin9949 nice one mate 👍
Hi, Good video mate. my partner has had this problem before and i replaced the resistor and all was fine for about 1 year, the resistors have failed again so it only works on 4, but this time it takes about 1 hour before we get any heat on setting 4 and its still not very hot just barely warm. My question is do the resistors also affect the heat output, or does she possibly have another problem, like the heating matrix needs cleaning out etc.
Hello bud.. the first time you replaced the heater resistor, did you lube up the blower motor like in the 2nd part of this vid?? If not, that could be the problem. If the bearings on the motor have corroded (very common issue) then the motor will be labouring causing the resistor to fail again.
Another very common fault on these cars (specifically the 1.9 SRi diesel (150)) is that the thermostat fails periodically.. symptoms include no hot air as you describe, as well as the temp gauge not moving, suddenly shooting up and then dropping back down again. Deffo sounds like like thermostat to me.
@@bigliam1970 yes mate, that is exactly what is happening, temp gauge doesn't move even on long journeys, then suddenly jumps up to normal working temp. thanks bud.
@@Nippl3Crippl3 great stuff mate; glad I could help.. new thermostat needed 👍
Enjoyed video have you any video showing changing gear shifter unit on vectra 6speed box and is it big job cheers
Glad u liked the vid mate. Cant help with the gear shifter bud.. sorry
@@bigliam1970 thanks for taking your time to reply managed to buy used full unit in perfect condition and have arranged to have it fitted thanks again all the best 👍
very nice video well done i just want to ask you i have vectra c 2004 so i wonder if you know or have part number for resistor please let me know many thanks
Thanks bud! I don't have a part number, I am afraid, but these resistor packs should be the same for your model - give your local vauxhall dealer a ring and get a part number from them 👍
hi i replaced my resistor it plugged in and has stopped the problem. but when putting the resistor back in it sits very loosely in the socket. it isn’t coming out all of the way but it isn’t securely sitting in the socket is this normal.
Hello mate; this isn't normal, no. Be careful as the resistor gets very hot during normal operation and if it isn't seated properly then it can melt whatever is around it.
The resistor itself has a plastic ciip that should snap it into place; don't leave it loose. If in doubt get a mechanic to look at it; you don't want to risk a fire.
@@bigliam1970 thanks allot mate really helpful video
@@alexpettigrew2212 you're welcome buddy
Yes I did that , covered it in wd40, btw, they are called brushes not bushes 🤣
Brushes are the carbon contacts onto the commutator, do not spray them at all. The bushes he is referring to are at either end. The armature shaft ends spin in them.These you lubricate.
My fans don't work but I have looked for the resistor but can not find it
Resistor should be exactly as-detailed in this vid mate
Really good video thanks for posting, heres a Valeo technical bulletin www.partinfo.co.uk/files/TSB%20AC015%2015%20Heater%20resistor%20509894%20failure.pdf which confirms your theory that the motor is causing the pack to blow. Thanks to your video I will now take my motor out to check the condition of it :-)
I had this problem on my signum
Can resistor fail on just one speed. Mine doesn't blow on speed 1 but works on 2,3 and 4
Hello mate, this is probably a speed selector fault - the resistor is designed to allow the full 12 volts from the cars electrics to flow through if it blows. Have you tried a different speed selector first? If this still doesn't work then it may be a relay issue, the relay being located on the fuse panel next to glove box (blue in colour). Process of elimination
@@bigliam1970 my guess is going to be speed selector although i'm confused as when i select speed 1, i can hear the relay click near the glove box
@@VSTV1993 Understood mate; process of elimination will confrim where the fault lies. Again, I doubt your issue is the resistor. Let us all know however, because there's bound to be other people out there who have the same issue as you!
I replaced the resistor and it lasted 2 weeks the gone again....no water ingress.....in foot well....if I remove the blower should the fan be free spinning when checking?
Hello mate, the fan should spin freely, yes. If it is in any way stiff, it needs to be freed up as this is probably what is causing the resistor to blow
My fan is blowing on 1,2,3 & 4 but it’s not blower into the face just on the wind screen. Will this be a cable?
Ant Cole no mate; the blower is servo controlled so no cables
bigliam1970 cheers mate so it could possibly be a new controller needed. Thanks for the reply.
Ant Cole you're welcome fella
Should the battery be disconnected before removing both?
No need to disconnect the battery for this job mate; these are are neither high current draw or electrically sensitive devices
Brilliant, thanks. Electrics worry me.
@@deanf9412 they worry me too! You have nothing to lose by disconnecting the battery for peace of mind if you feel the need. If you do disconnect the battery, make sure you have the four digit code to get your radio unlocked, and your electric Windows will need to be retrained
Hey lads..i have a vectra 2.2 sri..the hot air works fine..but i have no cold air...what is it i need to fix this pls...
Google Boi hello mate..
This could a number of things but starting with the most obvious and working backwards:
1. The temp mixer is controlled by a servo, check your fuses to see if any have blown that relate to this part of the electrical system.
2. Are you getting a clicking noise from behind the dash when you turn your engine on or when turning the temp selector up/down? If so then you have a servo with a broken gear wheel (common fault on these cars). New servo needed (it is located behind the centre console and accessed through the footwells) or some people take the servo out, turn the affected gear wheel 180 degrees and put it back in again.
3. Does your temp gauge always show cold or hot (i.e. doesn't sit at a normal operating temp in between). If so, you could need a new thermostat (also a common issue on these cars). I think I'm right in saying that a thermostat might affect the heating system in terms of temperature of the air blown through the matrix.
To be honest, my money is on a dodgy servo as they are frequently an issue on VC's
I hope this helps.
bigliam1970 nice one liam
..will give it a try
You dont need to remove the upper trim the glo0vebox will drop out under it
Yep.. realised that after I started filming.. 😉
Local dealer quoted me £51+ vat for the resister, seemed a bit high.
Hello mate.. to be honest the dealer is taking the p*** at that price.. Euro Car Parts do one for £20..
www.eurocarparts.com/search/230720070?type=shopping&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIkbju3bTZ3QIV1jLTCh2s5AGYEAkYAiABEgIaMvD_BwE
Every Vectra c comes with a guarantee- you are guaranteed to get a leak in the passenger footwell after about 5 or 6 years. Its caused by a blocked rubber rain scuttle and you simply open the bonnet , reach down on the rhs of the passenger side bulkhead and Pull the rubber shoot off !! You throw it away and don't replace it. It serves NO purpose whatsoever except to give you a guaranteed leak into the car. End of problem .
WD 40 it's not grease!
Po prostu ja correct