The welds have some undercut. I would use more filler and slow down the pulse. I never use pulse on thin variable material. I manual pulse with the pedal. It makes is super easy to weld if you get a plumbers torch and preheat the thicker parts for 10 seconds. Nice build. Good luck!
Just watched two videos tonight, total of 70 minutes! Thank you for documenting everything, your thoughts, ideas, and progress! What size filler are you using for welding? Keep this up!
I got the MLS shirt for free when I ordered a “Hardinge” machine tag t shirt from Jeff. He probably has some kinda swag available these days. He is the man.
Very nice! I think you're right not to fusion weld on those CS because you need the extra strength of the filler. Interesting that you weld out the CS with no SS. Without any flat tables or other precision equipment on my MTB build I actually tacked both CS and SS with a back wheel in there. It magnifies any misalignment and is easy to measure relative to HT and ST with bits of string. That yoke looked fun to weld and easier than the insides of the CS where they join the BB which has me reaching for the tinfoil and generally getting my ass kicked.
@@cobraframebuilding I might try that next time. Feels like the CS might move more during welding with no SS but on the other hand also easier to move them back...
Have you ever heard of someone tack-welding (MIG? TIG?) a frame together, but then finishing it with conventional brazing? Like completely covering over the tack welds with brazing fillets? See, I can't weld thin wall at all. I always ruin it. But. I'm wondering if it might be possible to get away with just quick little weak tacks, even with poor skills like mine, just to get the frame into one piece first. Your comments please!
I'm enjoying your videos. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. You should be really careful welding as much as you do with bare skin on arms etc. The UV from the arc flash is crazy strong. Skin cancer is real and can be deadly.
Glad I'm not the only one that struggled with that weld. Thanks for the great videos!
The welds have some undercut. I would use more filler and slow down the pulse. I never use pulse on thin variable material. I manual pulse with the pedal. It makes is super easy to weld if you get a plumbers torch and preheat the thicker parts for 10 seconds. Nice build. Good luck!
Nice videos ! You are an inspiration to my bike frames building projects.
really good and honest tips on tigging those tight tube junctions - thanks!
Nice job, I really enjoy the video.
Cheers from Chile!
Just watched two videos tonight, total of 70 minutes! Thank you for documenting everything, your thoughts, ideas, and progress! What size filler are you using for welding? Keep this up!
.035” filler rod in this case. That’s like .9mm. I would maybe use .045” or 1.1mm if I had some.
Frame is looking good, as is the MLS t-shirt. Are those available for sale? That guy makes a lot of very cool stuff.
I got the MLS shirt for free when I ordered a “Hardinge” machine tag t shirt from Jeff. He probably has some kinda swag available these days. He is the man.
Why isn't the top tube parallel to the ground?
Very nice! I think you're right not to fusion weld on those CS because you need the extra strength of the filler. Interesting that you weld out the CS with no SS. Without any flat tables or other precision equipment on my MTB build I actually tacked both CS and SS with a back wheel in there. It magnifies any misalignment and is easy to measure relative to HT and ST with bits of string. That yoke looked fun to weld and easier than the insides of the CS where they join the BB which has me reaching for the tinfoil and generally getting my ass kicked.
I like to weld the chainstays, then check alignment and cold set, then weld the seat stays.
@@cobraframebuilding I might try that next time. Feels like the CS might move more during welding with no SS but on the other hand also easier to move them back...
Where do you get that chainstay yoke? Did it come as 2 stamped halfs or did it come welded together?
looks good to me!
Is that a chucke2009 reference?
You couldve used a string hold from the head tube to the drop out and measures the distance it is from the seatube (or dropouts) on either side.
Definitely. I think that's a method that Sheldon Brown mentions on his 90s website. I'm not sure if I even have string in the shop TBH.
@@cobraframebuilding oh well. Your set up was more accurate anyway.
great vids
Thanks, bud!
What about alloy frame? do you?
The metal tube is from which material.
Chromoly steel.
Have you ever heard of someone tack-welding (MIG? TIG?) a frame together, but then finishing it with conventional brazing? Like completely covering over the tack welds with brazing fillets?
See, I can't weld thin wall at all. I always ruin it. But. I'm wondering if it might be possible to get away with just quick little weak tacks, even with poor skills like mine, just to get the frame into one piece first.
Your comments please!
MIG isn't going to go well with thin wall bike tubing. You can probably TIG tack with success.
Hi greetings from south africa.Id love to build bike frames.There are no courses here.
You might consider taking a trip to The Bicycle Academy or United Bicycle Institute. Or you can teach yourself -- certainly others have.
I'm enjoying your videos. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. You should be really careful welding as much as you do with bare skin on arms etc. The UV from the arc flash is crazy strong. Skin cancer is real and can be deadly.
No moustache please
Youhou \o/
Your eyes are the best instruments and Glenn Frey is dead. Notice you don't show the closeup weld puddles.