This is a great video. I had 2 new mini splits installed last year and the HVAC company put these in. Without fail, they did the job and saved both my units. They came back and replaced them for free! Since then I added a whole unit as well. For anyone watching this video, this is a must have.
Great video. Like you mentioned at the end, I would start with a whole-house (SPD Type 2) surge protector at the main panel. It doesn't hurt to add additional SPDs at the AC disconnects or any other subpanels you have, but if you can only afford one, put it at the main panel. This is now part of the NEC (electric code). I would caution against installing multiple wires into the screw terminal like that, and it's generally not allowed. It's commonly done for these disconnects, but those terminals are only supposed to have one wire under them. It's possible that the screw won't make proper contact on the double stacked wires and it could arc and burn up the disconnect or worse. Either do a pigtail or I like the SquareD QO200TRCP disconnects with a switch that looks like a breaker (it's not actually an overcurrent protection device.) That allows 2 wires under the lug. That is rated for 60A, but it doesn't have to match the equipment, since the actual breaker is in the panel. The other nice thing about these is, you can replace the switch (with an actual breaker if you can't find the switch) if it ever burns out and not have to install a whole new disconnect box.
I have two and possibly three issues with this video: 1. If you are going to go through the trouble of installing a surge protector on the AC unit, why not install a whole house surge protector on the main service panel instead? That way the whole house is surge protected. The installation procedure is similar except that you need to add a 30 amp double pole circuit breaker in the main panel. Whole house surge protectors are available on Amazon or at your local electrical supply store. Make sure to use one of sufficient capacity. 2. The National Electrical Code FORBIDS installing two wires on one binding post on the disconnect switch as was done in this video. This is a HARD FAIL. The proper procedure for connecting two wires to one binding post is to install a single pigtail on the binding post and then connect the two wires to the other end of the pigtail. 3. I infer that the AC condensing unit runs on 120 volts based upon the presence of a white (neutral) wire on both sides of the disconnect switch. However, most outdoor AC condensing units run on 240 volts, not 120 volts. If the AC unit does run on 240 volts, then the white wires are “hot” wires, not neutrals and must be labeled as such. If you are using Romex cable, you can do this by putting a band of red, blue, yellow, or black tape on the white wires to label them as “hot.” If you are using conduit, it is better to use a non-white, non green colored wire instead of a white wire.
@@atschirner Not a green conductor. In absence of a black or red conductor for the other hot lead in a 240 v, ckt,, the white one should be taped with black or red tape. Green is only for *_Ground_* .
I never thought to install one at the outdoor condenser unit. I have had problem with my goodman Airlander ECM motor blowing out. Those are expensive to replace. I am not sure why, but I attributed it to power surge. It happened twice. It always happened during thunderstorm. The blower motor was running on 230volt circuit. To remedy this, I ran the blower off of 110 volt and used surge protector. It has survived for the past three years after the change.
The NEC requires Conduit Reducing washers on knockouts that leave a ring. Often these become weak with only two or three small tabs of connection there they codified this several NEC versions ago.
There’s not a single time that I don’t learn something from you. U r awesome. I just ordered the protector and will install it this week. Thank u and please continue ur great work
Every new install we sell comes with an Intermatic AG3000 surge protector on the condenser and on the furnace. My cost, $100 for both. Cheaper than one service call covered by a non billable warranty visit. It is also a good up sell while servicing an existing system.
Great video! After watching one of your other videos sometime back, when I installed my three mini splits heat pumps in our home I also installed a surge protector on each unit. It gives me a little more peace of mind that if we do have a lightning strike or near lightning strike that the equipment should survive. As a matter of fact I was so impressed with how easy it was to install I'm going to have an electrician install a whole house search suppressor.
Good info, I have a bunch of surge protectors installed, besides the obvious places like TV's and computers, on my main panel, at my heat pump outdoor unit, the AHU, at my washing machine. Also as some other have mentioned, not sure about the 2 wires in one lug. For my outdoor unit I pigtailed to the lugs.
I already beat you the punch. I installed one a week ago on my Pioneer 24k Mini Split. The Led is hyper bright and I can see it shining at night all tye way across my 30 acre property. They're about 60 bucks 9n Amazon.
No. This does not protect a lightning strike close by. Power surges yes. Lightning strikes a bit further away - maybe. That is valuable already. However, I would go for a whole house surge protector, especially if your breaker box is full of modern expensive afci, gfci and dual breakers.
I agree we need a surge protector, the one used in this video has a lot of bad reviews and possible fake units out there. I installed a Pioneer Mini Split System so i stuck with a Pioneer surge protector for a few dollars more and installs exact same way. For example take note of the seller rating of the supplier in the link on this video. That seller has complaints of fake units.
With lightning storms, I turn off the systems and open the breakers. The power company has installed large surge protectors on their lines throughout our area.
These devices have a Jules rating . The higher the number…the more energy they can absorb. The best location for the device is not next to the device you are protecting…but rather the beginning of the power line at the breaker box….this is becuase the line run provides electrical characteristics that results in the majority of the surge being absorbed by the device…if you put the device next to the item you want to protect…the surge goes to both devices. The electrical componet in that black box is probally the size of a dime and probally only offers 6000 Jules clamping and real protection does not occur until you get to 30,000 Jules and if the devices uses some type of inductive windings to shunt the surge away from the device…that would require the power runs from the unit needing protection to be moved to the black box in series with the inductors and have the clamping device on the other end of the inductor. This parallel clamping de ice will have a low protection ability.
The Square D disconnect the other reviewer noted does not have a side knockout ( at least the one with same ID at the local HD). One would think they would revise these to accommodate the SP devices that now are more available ? I installed an Intermatic SP on my conventional AC unit at the no -fuse disconnect after we had a lightning surge destroy the AC contactor . I did “double lug “ the load (hot out) connections withe surge leads. The neutral had a second lug. The unit has been in service for eight (8) years now with no issues. Works great and I know of at least a couple close lightning strikes that could have caused damage but did not. I suppose you could pigtail the load and SP a shunt via a wire nut but that might (?) reduce the effectiveness of the shunt ? Anyway , still here, no spark outs , shorts, etc.
That's exactly the way I hooked up an old Ditek to my generator's disconnect. I did this hoping if there was a surge from the generator my circuits would be protected. My Ditek is about 20 years old though and doesn't have an led on it though. I took it off the main panel when installed a GE SurgePro.
They won't trip from a surge and do nothing to protect from that or voltage sag. They are are quick acting triac that shorts to ground causing the circuit breaker at the distribution panel to trip.
@@timcat1004 Not sure where people are coming up with these claims. A surge protector uses a MOV, which is a variable resistor that shunts excess voltage and current to ground. It is not a TRIAC. TRIAC's are used as dimmers and speed controls for electric motors. They are not used as surge protectors, and they do not cause the breaker to trip.
Ain't nothing stopping lightning. I have the Siemens FS140 and lightning hit my backyard. Destroyed various electrical things throughout the back half of my house (GFCI outlets, stereo equipment, wifi equipment, etc) and the surge protector is just sitting there lit up green still. Might help if the utility company has a surge or lightning somehow comes in through the buried electric utility lines to my panel, otherwise, break out your wallet.
@@chrish7927 It all depends on what path the lightning strike takes. I had a TV, cable box and an amplifier damaged during a lightning strike that was running on a UPS and a surge protector. The lightning traveled through the coax line, blew up the cable box, and the cable box blew up the HDMI ports through the video link and damaged the amplifier as it was connected to the TV. So, the power outlet isn't the only path for power surges to travel.
@@blackericdenice And how does that change the validity of the comment… I don’t have a video of me working on electrical equipment, but I work for a multi-billion dollar manufacturer of electrical and cooling equipment… So, does that mean if I make a comment about the benefits of a wye-delta start, and how to program the PLCs to make that happen, would my comment not carry any weight if this was a video on commercial three phase equipment?
Like others have said - this is a wrong way to install it. You are not supposed to use singe screw terminal for multiple wire connectors (unless the screw terminal is specifically designed for it, and the one in this video is not designed for it), especially with different gauge wires. Ditek themselves have an installation instruction for this model right on their website, which tells to use wire nuts to connect multiple wire ends instead of stuffing them under same screw terminals.
Could you please put the video links in the description that you put on screen? A lot of folks use ad blockers that do not display those on-screen links and ads. Please put the link to the whole-house surge protector in the description. Thank you.
I've got a whole house surge protector at the main panel, but I wonder if these dedicated units being closer to the load would be more effective or would a whole house unit be fine to protect the mini splits?
Everything is good I need one for my aciq unit, but when I gonna buy a SP, I see the measurements in AMPS AND JOULES, I NEED KNOW EXACTLY WHICH ONE IS THE CORRECT ?
The Green LED, over his left shoulder, went out as he was finishing his presentation at about the 7:24 point in the video timeline. What does that mean? Otherwise a good presentation.
The system has Black and White wires as he is connecting it to a 120Vac system which as a Hot (Black) and a Neutral (White). If this was a 240Vac system, both wires would be Black, as 240Vac has two Hot and no Neutral wires.
If this is wired in parallel, how does it provide any protection al all? A surge protector needs to be in series before a device so it can be sacrificed to save the downstream device.
The way these work is by using components called MOVs, which are basically voltage-based switches that only conduct current when the voltage goes above a set amount. The MOVs are connected between the hot leads and ground, and at normal voltage, they aren't passing any current. However, if the voltage spikes above the set amount (usually like 150V), the MOV 'turns on' and dumps that current to ground, often killing itself in the process. Usually, these voltage spikes are transient and fast, so the circuit breaker won't even trip and the MOV might not completely die.
@@bnasty267 I get it now - normal voltage always goes to the equipment and any excess is rerouted. Neat set up. Curious what happens on a large or extended surge after the MOV dies. If it is no longer able to actively dump the excess to the ground, won't all that voltage just be conducted to the end equipment at that point? Or is that a situation where you'll have bigger problems than your A/C unit getting fried?
@@fritter6546 High end surge protectors often have multiple MOVs (sometimes half a dozen or more) wired in parallel to serve as backup and to handle larger surges. Similar to the unit shown here, usually there is a little thermal fuse essentially stuck on the MOV that turns off a little green LED when the MOV heated up from a big surge, and thus sacrificed itself. When the light goes out, that means it's time to replace the SPD, because it no longer offers any protection. You're right though, they can only do so much. A huge surge like a direct lightning strike is going to blow right through it.
Hi Dave, can you do a video where you install a whole house surge protector device (SPD)? Also, if someone has a whole house SPD do they still need a separate SPD on their HVAC equipment? Is it best practice to have multiple layers of surge protection or is one enough in most cases? Thank you, great video.
You want as many layers as you can reasonably afford. One at the main panel, and one at any AC disconnect or other subpanels. You also want the standard surge power strips for any expensive stuff that plugs in. Modern electronics are very susceptible to power spikes (not necessarily lightning) and these SPDs are relatively cheap insurance.
It is cheap and easy to add a surge cube to all your appliances and electronics. They can be found for around $15 or so. I always look for the one's that are UL1449 rated, as they have a 330V voltage protection, vs the cheap one's can be 400V or higher. I have a surge cube on all my appliances including refrigerator, dishwasher and washer. Anything digital with a circuit board or a display should be protected. If you have a computer or expensive TV, use a UPS also.
Hello, nice video! I have a question. I hear that the inverter AC’s usually break faster than non inverters, is that true? They say the main boards fry quick. I am very interested in purchasing an inverter. I figure this surge protector will help.
Can the same principle be used with a system’s air handler unit as well? If so, any tutorial on the “how to” with adding the surge protector to the air handler unit?
Is there any objective 3rd party testing of this device. I'm not an electrical engineer, but a parallel 'surge protector' still allows lots of unwanted power travel over the other lines. I'm having trouble seeing how it can do much good for a lightening strike (and I've seen first hand what they can do--twice), or is this only for small power line surges?
That’s why I always use ‘listed’ equipment from an approved test lab such as UL and tested to an official standard. You still have to make sure that standard applies to what you want to do. This particular product does have the UL mark.
If your main electrical panel has the (now required) whole home surge protection, is it still recommended for AC disconnects to have their own local to the outdoor unit itself?
Hello there, we have problems with Voltage fluctuations, where the voltage dips briefly and then comes back on right away. This causes my AC compressor many problems, so I installed a ICM Delay on Make Timer. The strange thing is that the timer does not cut out at those dips but only delays once the electricity goes off completely ( same counts for the built in delay in my Air handler thermostat. So here my question : Is this Ditek Surge Protector a solution or do I need to install something else ? Thank you so much !
Hey Dave I am new in the HVAC trade but I’d like to see you do a video sometime on the correct way of wiring a head pressure fan speed controller for using ac during low ambient temperatures. I have a icm 325hn controller I would like to put on a unit.
Im currently looking at the ACIQ mini splits. How have you liked your system? Is exteme heat worth it? The coldest temps I see are only -5F. I do not have a ducted system to supplement heating.
@@denverbraughler3948 Respectfully I disagree with you. I took numerous CEU classes on surge arrestors over my 42 year electrical career and I learned the more the better and most critical is to keep the wires short as possible and no sharp bends. I installed countless suppressors in my career and have one on my load center and one on my AC.
I ordered and installed from your link on on my 12K mini split, but got no LED ? . The tech support is saying disconnect one leg to try to light LED. Have you seen this issue on 120 V unit ? Thanks
Isn't a surge protector kinda overkill? If your home is grounded properly then all discharges should be going to ground either from the utility lines, lightning strike, or internal electrical components, not to mention that's what a circuit breaker at your electrical panel is meant to do, shut off power when over amped or short occur.
If the overvoltage or overcurrent event is occurring on L1 or L2/your hot wires, then that event will destroy the PCBs in the equipment before it makes it back to ground.
Does it actually work? It seems like it would just blow it right along with the a/c unit. Its like just piggy backing another appliance to a circuit. I could understand if it was inline.
No longer my HVAC company. Many of the “ family owned” home service companies with a good clientele have been bought by private equity companies. The techs are now salesmen. Their income is now commission. The guy that was my tech for seven years opened his own shop. My new hero.@@diyhvacguy
Great video and information. I have a cabin that I get to every couple weeks with all electric HVAC. Would you also recommend this for a well? Really don’t want to pay to have a pump pulled for shock therapy.
And because it is AC (current) there is no "polarity" and that is why either one of the surge protector wires can go to either one of the load wires? (I'm sincerely asking).
Both - the whole house is one big shared circuit and thus you need to protect the surge from coming Into tye AC on all legs that lightning etc.. can ingress.
One is for your heat strip and the other is for your compressor and fans. The one for your compressor and fans is the one you want. It’s probably a smaller breaker then your heat strip 👍🏼
I feel like this should be installed in it's own protective enclosure or within the a/c unit electrical housing. The sun and weather will beat that thing to death. Otherwise, I like the idea.
I just installed a Siemens FSP140 Pro whole house surge suppressor in the main panel. My Carrier Infinity Series AC compressor is on a seperate meter and the wiring appears to be seperate from the main panel and is not most likely not protected by the FSP140. Can this device be installed and will it protect ths seperate circuit?
@@timcat1004 My bad. Double checked the video and it is indeed a 240Vac system. You are correct that the White wire should be labeled as Hot when used in 240V application as it normally indicates a Neutral if it is not marked as Hot.
Does it matter if the surge protector is installed at the disconnect or at the actual panel? The electrician my HVAC company used installed it at the panel.
I don’t think it matters. I like having it at the equipment so you know to check that green light when you walk past it or if you know a power surge happened
Another great video DIY HVAC guy on surge protection system! I was wondering if you could somehow make a video about a possible solar power feature to battery bank to condenser video? Or how you would set up your dream system that would keep the home ice cold but save on electricity with complimentary systems like a whole house fan to take out hot air out of the attic and home, possible apps to monitor usage, how a house and attic should be insulated. Basically a hvac system off the grid with a ideal setup up. My electric bill was through the roof this summer and I am looking at possible solutions. Thanks for all the valuable information. I look forward to your videos like I do with this old house on the weekends. Have a great one.
@@redbaron6805 I got this from Ditek this morning - " the product is manufactured in Largo, FL USA using a mix of US and globally sourced components" I do give them credit for a quick and what appears to be an honest reply.
Hard start kits just connect an oversized capacitor for a few seconds with a relay. Soft start systems ramp up current gradually with a SCR. This would work with either one.
Since the invention of duplex receptacles😂… But those are the same gauge wire and made for it. And theses are clearly not along with being totally different gauge wires.
I don't get it. With the original wires still connected the exact same way they were, the surge can still go straight in to the unit. A power strip for a computer, for example, is a "in between" protector. The power can't get to the devices. I don't think I would trust this contraption.
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
This is a great video. I had 2 new mini splits installed last year and the HVAC company put these in. Without fail, they did the job and saved both my units. They came back and replaced them for free! Since then I added a whole unit as well. For anyone watching this video, this is a must have.
Great video. Like you mentioned at the end, I would start with a whole-house (SPD Type 2) surge protector at the main panel. It doesn't hurt to add additional SPDs at the AC disconnects or any other subpanels you have, but if you can only afford one, put it at the main panel. This is now part of the NEC (electric code).
I would caution against installing multiple wires into the screw terminal like that, and it's generally not allowed. It's commonly done for these disconnects, but those terminals are only supposed to have one wire under them. It's possible that the screw won't make proper contact on the double stacked wires and it could arc and burn up the disconnect or worse. Either do a pigtail or I like the SquareD QO200TRCP disconnects with a switch that looks like a breaker (it's not actually an overcurrent protection device.) That allows 2 wires under the lug. That is rated for 60A, but it doesn't have to match the equipment, since the actual breaker is in the panel. The other nice thing about these is, you can replace the switch (with an actual breaker if you can't find the switch) if it ever burns out and not have to install a whole new disconnect box.
Pin this? Thank ya for the info.
@@denverbraughler3948 That's been an ongoing issue with this channel, sadly.
I have two and possibly three issues with this video:
1. If you are going to go through the trouble of installing a surge protector on the AC unit, why not install a whole house surge protector on the main service panel instead? That way the whole house is surge protected. The installation procedure is similar except that you need to add a 30 amp double pole circuit breaker in the main panel. Whole house surge protectors are available on Amazon or at your local electrical supply store. Make sure to use one of sufficient capacity.
2. The National Electrical Code FORBIDS installing two wires on one binding post on the disconnect switch as was done in this video. This is a HARD FAIL. The proper procedure for connecting two wires to one binding post is to install a single pigtail on the binding post and then connect the two wires to the other end of the pigtail.
3. I infer that the AC condensing unit runs on 120 volts based upon the presence of a white (neutral) wire on both sides of the disconnect switch. However, most outdoor AC condensing units run on 240 volts, not 120 volts. If the AC unit does run on 240 volts, then the white wires are “hot” wires, not neutrals and must be labeled as such. If you are using Romex cable, you can do this by putting a band of red, blue, yellow, or black tape on the white wires to label them as “hot.” If you are using conduit, it is better to use a non-white, non green colored wire instead of a white wire.
It's 240 judging by the breaker opened to remove power from the disconnect. It needs a non-whiite or green conductor.
Great info - thank you. Can this be installed on a roof mounted heat pump?
@@atschirner Not a green conductor. In absence of a black or red conductor for the other hot lead in a 240 v, ckt,, the white one should be taped with black or red tape. Green is only for *_Ground_* .
Yeah, I was wondering if just doing a whole house protector wouldn't make more sense.
I knew somebody was gonna say it!
Two conductors under a single lug is often not allowed and can result in the connection melting
Interesting. So there’s no chance for them to melt when connected in a wire nut?
Would be electricians. Perfect install
Could be true with solid core wires.. i dont see how it would be true if one is not solid core
Jamesgor13579 🙄🙄🙄🙄
Definitely not going to “melt”
The termination might get hot but that’s going to take some time
@@denverbraughler3948when you refer to “pressure connectors” do you mean a crimp ???? Or a wire nut ??
I never thought to install one at the outdoor condenser unit. I have had problem with my goodman Airlander ECM motor blowing out. Those are expensive to replace. I am not sure why, but I attributed it to power surge. It happened twice. It always happened during thunderstorm. The blower motor was running on 230volt circuit. To remedy this, I ran the blower off of 110 volt and used surge protector. It has survived for the past three years after the change.
Install one on your furnace too. It will save an ECM motor and a control board from frying from a power surge.
The NEC requires Conduit Reducing washers on knockouts that leave a ring. Often these become weak with only two or three small tabs of connection there they codified this several NEC versions ago.
There’s not a single time that I don’t learn something from you. U r awesome. I just ordered the protector and will install it this week.
Thank u and please continue ur great work
Every new install we sell comes with an Intermatic AG3000 surge protector on the condenser and on the furnace. My cost, $100 for both. Cheaper than one service call covered by a non billable warranty visit. It is also a good up sell while servicing an existing system.
I installed a RSH-50 from Rectorseal on my unit, it’s got a lifetime product warranty and a LED indicator as well! Love it
Great video!
After watching one of your other videos sometime back, when I installed my three mini splits heat pumps in our home I also installed a surge protector on each unit.
It gives me a little more peace of mind that if we do have a lightning strike or near lightning strike that the equipment should survive.
As a matter of fact I was so impressed with how easy it was to install I'm going to have an electrician install a whole house search suppressor.
Nice video! We use a lot of ditek surge products for low voltage systems like cameras, alarms, networking and they have been reliable.
Good info, I have a bunch of surge protectors installed, besides the obvious places like TV's and computers, on my main panel, at my heat pump outdoor unit, the AHU, at my washing machine.
Also as some other have mentioned, not sure about the 2 wires in one lug. For my outdoor unit I pigtailed to the lugs.
I already beat you the punch. I installed one a week ago on my Pioneer 24k Mini Split. The Led is hyper bright and I can see it shining at night all tye way across my 30 acre property. They're about 60 bucks 9n Amazon.
I pitch these all the time and tell people the importance of them, especially on mini-splits.
Youre probably like its another $300 and then theyre like hellll naaaa xD
No. This does not protect a lightning strike close by. Power surges yes. Lightning strikes a bit further away - maybe. That is valuable already.
However, I would go for a whole house surge protector, especially if your breaker box is full of modern expensive afci, gfci and dual breakers.
I agree we need a surge protector, the one used in this video has a lot of bad reviews and possible fake units out there. I installed a Pioneer Mini Split System so i stuck with a Pioneer surge protector for a few dollars more and installs exact same way. For example take note of the seller rating of the supplier in the link on this video. That seller has complaints of fake units.
With lightning storms, I turn off the systems and open the breakers. The power company has installed large surge protectors on their lines throughout our area.
Planning to install Surge Protector on the water well pump too, since R&R a submerged well pump is so expensive.
These devices have a Jules rating . The higher the number…the more energy they can absorb. The best location for the device is not next to the device you are protecting…but rather the beginning of the power line at the breaker box….this is becuase the line run provides electrical characteristics that results in the majority of the surge being absorbed by the device…if you put the device next to the item you want to protect…the surge goes to both devices. The electrical componet in that black box is probally the size of a dime and probally only offers 6000 Jules clamping and real protection does not occur until you get to 30,000 Jules and if the devices uses some type of inductive windings to shunt the surge away from the device…that would require the power runs from the unit needing protection to be moved to the black box in series with the inductors and have the clamping device on the other end of the inductor. This parallel clamping de ice will have a low protection ability.
joules
When did double tapping become ok and acceptable?
Double tapping is not allowed, regardless.
I always double tap. I’d hate for the undead to get up on me. 😅
The green LED is so that means it’s ok!🤣
Both my inside and outside units have a surge. I also have a whole house surge on my breaker box. So far I’ve been good
The Square D disconnect the other reviewer noted does not have a side knockout ( at least the one with same ID at the local HD). One would think they would revise these to accommodate the SP devices that now are more available ? I installed an Intermatic SP on my conventional AC unit at the no -fuse disconnect after we had a lightning surge destroy the AC contactor . I did “double lug “ the load (hot out) connections withe surge leads. The neutral had a second lug. The unit has been in service for eight (8) years now with no issues. Works great and I know of at least a couple close lightning strikes that could have caused damage but did not. I suppose you could pigtail the load and SP a shunt via a wire nut but that might (?) reduce the effectiveness of the shunt ? Anyway , still here, no spark outs , shorts, etc.
That's exactly the way I hooked up an old Ditek to my generator's disconnect. I did this hoping if there was a surge from the generator my circuits would be protected. My Ditek is about 20 years old though and doesn't have an led on it though. I took it off the main panel when installed a GE SurgePro.
Surge protectors don't last 20 years though, so it is doing nothing for you.
Great for surges. Probably not effective on a close lightning strike, however. It’s still worthwhile.
They won't trip from a surge and do nothing to protect from that or voltage sag. They are are quick acting triac that shorts to ground causing the circuit breaker at the distribution panel to trip.
@@timcat1004 Not sure where people are coming up with these claims. A surge protector uses a MOV, which is a variable resistor that shunts excess voltage and current to ground. It is not a TRIAC.
TRIAC's are used as dimmers and speed controls for electric motors. They are not used as surge protectors, and they do not cause the breaker to trip.
Ain't nothing stopping lightning. I have the Siemens FS140 and lightning hit my backyard. Destroyed various electrical things throughout the back half of my house (GFCI outlets, stereo equipment, wifi equipment, etc) and the surge protector is just sitting there lit up green still. Might help if the utility company has a surge or lightning somehow comes in through the buried electric utility lines to my panel, otherwise, break out your wallet.
@@chrish7927 It all depends on what path the lightning strike takes.
I had a TV, cable box and an amplifier damaged during a lightning strike that was running on a UPS and a surge protector.
The lightning traveled through the coax line, blew up the cable box, and the cable box blew up the HDMI ports through the video link and damaged the amplifier as it was connected to the TV.
So, the power outlet isn't the only path for power surges to travel.
Dielectric grease would have been helpful here.
I bet you don't have a video of you doing anything electrical.
@@blackericdenice yep, that's correct. well played.
@@blackericdenice And how does that change the validity of the comment… I don’t have a video of me working on electrical equipment, but I work for a multi-billion dollar manufacturer of electrical and cooling equipment… So, does that mean if I make a comment about the benefits of a wye-delta start, and how to program the PLCs to make that happen, would my comment not carry any weight if this was a video on commercial three phase equipment?
@@EarlHayward it depends on your comment
Not dielectric grease but anti oxidation grease due to the aluminum and copper conductors
Another Great Video. I order 2 Ditek Surge Protectors.
How do u change capacitor on the slimline AC unit like the one you used on this video?
Like others have said - this is a wrong way to install it. You are not supposed to use singe screw terminal for multiple wire connectors (unless the screw terminal is specifically designed for it, and the one in this video is not designed for it), especially with different gauge wires. Ditek themselves have an installation instruction for this model right on their website, which tells to use wire nuts to connect multiple wire ends instead of stuffing them under same screw terminals.
Could you please put the video links in the description that you put on screen? A lot of folks use ad blockers that do not display those on-screen links and ads. Please put the link to the whole-house surge protector in the description. Thank you.
I've got a whole house surge protector at the main panel, but I wonder if these dedicated units being closer to the load would be more effective or would a whole house unit be fine to protect the mini splits?
Everything is good I need one for my aciq unit, but when I gonna buy a SP, I see the measurements in AMPS AND JOULES, I NEED KNOW EXACTLY WHICH ONE IS THE CORRECT ?
The Green LED, over his left shoulder, went out as he was finishing his presentation at about the 7:24 point in the video timeline. What does that mean? Otherwise a good presentation.
It was my camera. Sometimes it didn’t want to pick up the green led for some reason.
Available from your local contractor for the now lowest price of $650
Lol
Another great video.
Not sure how to hook this up to 110.
Thanks
Why does the line side white wire with no black or red tape on it?
The system has Black and White wires as he is connecting it to a 120Vac system which as a Hot (Black) and a Neutral (White).
If this was a 240Vac system, both wires would be Black, as 240Vac has two Hot and no Neutral wires.
@@redbaron6805 At 1:04 the breaker is double pole, so 240 v. The white conductors should be taped black or red.
If this is wired in parallel, how does it provide any protection al all? A surge protector needs to be in series before a device so it can be sacrificed to save the downstream device.
The way these work is by using components called MOVs, which are basically voltage-based switches that only conduct current when the voltage goes above a set amount. The MOVs are connected between the hot leads and ground, and at normal voltage, they aren't passing any current. However, if the voltage spikes above the set amount (usually like 150V), the MOV 'turns on' and dumps that current to ground, often killing itself in the process. Usually, these voltage spikes are transient and fast, so the circuit breaker won't even trip and the MOV might not completely die.
Wow excellent explanation sir. 🤘🏼
@@bnasty267 I get it now - normal voltage always goes to the equipment and any excess is rerouted. Neat set up. Curious what happens on a large or extended surge after the MOV dies. If it is no longer able to actively dump the excess to the ground, won't all that voltage just be conducted to the end equipment at that point? Or is that a situation where you'll have bigger problems than your A/C unit getting fried?
@@fritter6546 High end surge protectors often have multiple MOVs (sometimes half a dozen or more) wired in parallel to serve as backup and to handle larger surges. Similar to the unit shown here, usually there is a little thermal fuse essentially stuck on the MOV that turns off a little green LED when the MOV heated up from a big surge, and thus sacrificed itself. When the light goes out, that means it's time to replace the SPD, because it no longer offers any protection.
You're right though, they can only do so much. A huge surge like a direct lightning strike is going to blow right through it.
Hi Dave, can you do a video where you install a whole house surge protector device (SPD)? Also, if someone has a whole house SPD do they still need a separate SPD on their HVAC equipment? Is it best practice to have multiple layers of surge protection or is one enough in most cases? Thank you, great video.
You want as many layers as you can reasonably afford. One at the main panel, and one at any AC disconnect or other subpanels. You also want the standard surge power strips for any expensive stuff that plugs in. Modern electronics are very susceptible to power spikes (not necessarily lightning) and these SPDs are relatively cheap insurance.
It is cheap and easy to add a surge cube to all your appliances and electronics. They can be found for around $15 or so. I always look for the one's that are UL1449 rated, as they have a 330V voltage protection, vs the cheap one's can be 400V or higher.
I have a surge cube on all my appliances including refrigerator, dishwasher and washer. Anything digital with a circuit board or a display should be protected. If you have a computer or expensive TV, use a UPS also.
Great video. I am curious why HVAC companies fail to install a surge protector when they install the HVAC unit.
Hello, nice video! I have a question. I hear that the inverter AC’s usually break faster than non inverters, is that true? They say the main boards fry quick. I am very interested in purchasing an inverter. I figure this surge protector will help.
Can the same principle be used with a system’s air handler unit as well?
If so, any tutorial on the “how to” with adding the surge protector to the air handler unit?
Is there any objective 3rd party testing of this device. I'm not an electrical engineer, but a parallel 'surge protector' still allows lots of unwanted power travel over the other lines. I'm having trouble seeing how it can do much good for a lightening strike (and I've seen first hand what they can do--twice), or is this only for small power line surges?
That’s why I always use ‘listed’ equipment from an approved test lab such as UL and tested to an official standard. You still have to make sure that standard applies to what you want to do. This particular product does have the UL mark.
that's nice with stranded wire but what about solid core wire?
Protector wires appear to be aluminum. Can't connect aluminum with copper without proper lubrication. Is the wiring of the protector indeed aluminum?
Please, step slowly away from the electricity.
@@jimmaag4274 electrolysis is no joke. Better response needed.
There is nothing in the Ditek literature that identifies wire type, but I would assume the wires are tinned copper rather than aluminum.
@@nomen_meus that wouldn't occur to an apprentice trying to show off on youtube.
Is it better to install it at the compressor unit or just place one at your breaker box? That basically saves the whole house?
If your main electrical panel has the (now required) whole home surge protection, is it still recommended for AC disconnects to have their own local to the outdoor unit itself?
Hello there, we have problems with Voltage fluctuations, where the voltage dips briefly and then comes back on right away. This causes my AC compressor many problems, so I installed a ICM Delay on Make Timer. The strange thing is that the timer does not cut out at those dips but only delays once the electricity goes off completely ( same counts for the built in delay in my Air handler thermostat. So here my question : Is this Ditek Surge Protector a solution or do I need to install something else ? Thank you so much !
I seen another video where a guy was installing a surge protector on the line side. You say connect it on the load side. Does it matter?
What if you have a whole house surge protector? No need for a surge protector for individual components then right?
Hey Dave I am new in the HVAC trade but I’d like to see you do a video sometime on the correct way of wiring a head pressure fan speed controller for using ac during low ambient temperatures. I have a icm 325hn controller I would like to put on a unit.
Whole house surge protector include the HVAC system?
Is the soft start you recommended in other videos a surge protector aswell?
Im currently looking at the ACIQ mini splits. How have you liked your system? Is exteme heat worth it? The coldest temps I see are only -5F. I do not have a ducted system to supplement heating.
So redundancy is good. So I do have a Surge Protector in my Breaker Box... I guess it would be good to Also have one on each unit as well.
@@denverbraughler3948 Respectfully I disagree with you. I took numerous CEU classes on surge arrestors over my 42 year electrical career and I learned the more the better and most critical is to keep the wires short as possible and no sharp bends. I installed countless suppressors in my career and have one on my load center and one on my AC.
Would you install this the same way if my a/c is right next to my main and I don't have a a/c disconnect? Mine is set uo to just flip the breaker.
I ordered and installed from your link on on my 12K mini split, but got no LED ? . The tech support is saying disconnect one leg to try to light LED. Have you seen this issue on 120 V unit ? Thanks
Not so much 100% protected here in Florida. Love your vids
Isn't a surge protector kinda overkill? If your home is grounded properly then all discharges should be going to ground either from the utility lines, lightning strike, or internal electrical components, not to mention that's what a circuit breaker at your electrical panel is meant to do, shut off power when over amped or short occur.
If the overvoltage or overcurrent event is occurring on L1 or L2/your hot wires, then that event will destroy the PCBs in the equipment before it makes it back to ground.
Does it actually work? It seems like it would just blow it right along with the a/c unit. Its like just piggy backing another appliance to a circuit. I could understand if it was inline.
Why we change the whole condenser instead of the compressor and dryer when it’s go bad?
Easy job! We get some pretty good lightning strikes here in summer. My HVAC a company wanted $375 to install one of these. Hey, they got overhead, OK?
Wow, seriously??? That’s crazy
But it doesn’t surprise me
No longer my HVAC company. Many of the “ family owned” home service companies with a good clientele have been bought by private equity companies. The techs are now salesmen. Their income is now commission.
The guy that was my tech for seven years opened his own shop. My new hero.@@diyhvacguy
Great video and information. I have a cabin that I get to every couple weeks with all electric HVAC. Would you also recommend this for a well? Really don’t want to pay to have a pump pulled for shock therapy.
And because it is AC (current) there is no "polarity" and that is why either one of the surge protector wires can go to either one of the load wires? (I'm sincerely asking).
Correct
Great idea……i have a question though. I have 2 disconnects on my heat pump package unit. Which one would need the surge protector?
Both - the whole house is one big shared circuit and thus you need to protect the surge from coming Into tye AC on all legs that lightning etc.. can ingress.
One is for your heat strip and the other is for your compressor and fans. The one for your compressor and fans is the one you want. It’s probably a smaller breaker then your heat strip 👍🏼
I feel like this should be installed in it's own protective enclosure or within the a/c unit electrical housing. The sun and weather will beat that thing to death. Otherwise, I like the idea.
I just installed a Siemens FSP140 Pro whole house surge suppressor in the main panel. My Carrier Infinity Series AC compressor is on a seperate meter and the wiring appears to be seperate from the main panel and is not most likely not protected by the FSP140. Can this device be installed and will it protect ths seperate circuit?
I would have installed it on the line side. I would also have used a whole house sized unit.
It says in the instructions to do the load side.
Thanks for the videos. Just added to my honey do list...lol...but a great investment for sure.
Can this be installed on a roof mounted heat pump?
Why are you using a black and white for L1 and L2 240 VAC? You should have labeled the white as red L2.
Umm, that's not how it works
He is using Black and White as this is a 120Vac system, and he is using one Hot and one Neutral wire.
@@redbaron6805 He is not. That is a 240 volt unit. Try again.
@@timcat1004 My bad. Double checked the video and it is indeed a 240Vac system.
You are correct that the White wire should be labeled as Hot when used in 240V application as it normally indicates a Neutral if it is not marked as Hot.
How do i find out which one will be sufficient for my ac unit?
Does it matter if the surge protector is installed at the disconnect or at the actual panel? The electrician my HVAC company used installed it at the panel.
I don’t think it matters. I like having it at the equipment so you know to check that green light when you walk past it or if you know a power surge happened
Another great video DIY HVAC guy on surge protection system! I was wondering if you could somehow make a video about a possible solar power feature to battery bank to condenser video? Or how you would set up your dream system that would keep the home ice cold but save on electricity with complimentary systems like a whole house fan to take out hot air out of the attic and home, possible apps to monitor usage, how a house and attic should be insulated. Basically a hvac system off the grid with a ideal setup up. My electric bill was through the roof this summer and I am looking at possible solutions. Thanks for all the valuable information. I look forward to your videos like I do with this old house on the weekends. Have a great one.
7:09 Amazon description says country of origin is china. Great idea. I need to find one not made by the ccp for my mini split.
Amazon description is obviously wrong, as the unit is clearly says it is Made in the USA.
@@redbaron6805 I got this from Ditek this morning - " the product is manufactured in Largo, FL USA using a mix of US and globally sourced components" I do give them credit for a quick and what appears to be an honest reply.
Why china makes the best quality at this point.
great clear video, Thx
what if your not using a disconnect and your using 120v with one breaker ? Then all you have is 1 ground 1 common and 1 load/line wire
It works with 120v as well and you can install it on your breaker circuit in your main panel that is for the AC
@@tangoseal1 thanks
Can i apply this to my central air to protect my capacitor ? thanks,Peter
It’s more for your circuit board, and other sensitive electronics. Not sure if it would help with a capacitor but it very well might!
@@diyhvacguy Thank you. Let me know when you are around Boston.
Wow in the country i live ill be needing one a week
Lol
Feel your pain, might be the same country 🤦🏻♂️
Great information; thanks for the video!
so, should you buy 2, keep 1 as a back up?
Not a bad idea
Always great information. Keep doing what your doing.
Are you sure it is ok to have that surge protector outside? I don't think that is waterproof.
It is labelled as a NEMA 4X enclosure, so it is well protected against dirt and water ingress.
How does it compare to the Intermatic AG3000?
Nice job, and thanks for posting!
Not sure I’ll have to check that one out
Two wires under 1 lug-fire hazard.
How does something wired in parallel protect the equipment?
It absorbs the excess surge. I installed a similar unit, different brand, installs the same way.
Does this product protect against under voltage?
What’s your opinion of the ACIQ?
I love it so far! Quality equipment for sure. It’s saving me money as we speak :)
Should I assume this is compatible with soft and hard start kits?
Hard start kits just connect an oversized capacitor for a few seconds with a relay. Soft start systems ramp up current gradually with a SCR. This would work with either one.
Correct
Hmm no pigtails? replace them after every power outage?
Great video, I Need One.
Hey Thank you for the information
Why do some wire it up to the line side and some wire it up to load side? This is driving me crazy seeing so many videos doing it differently
The instructions for this unit indicate load side. My unit indicates line side.
Always great thanks 🙏 you 😊
so this can be used as a lightning rod ,right、？
Does this work on. 3ton unit
Great tip!
Since the invention of duplex receptacles😂… But those are the same gauge wire and made for it. And theses are clearly not along with being totally different gauge wires.
Great video.
I don't get it. With the original wires still connected the exact same way they were, the surge can still go straight in to the unit. A power strip for a computer, for example, is a "in between" protector. The power can't get to the devices. I don't think I would trust this contraption.
Surge protectors are supposed to be installed in the line not in the load.
The instructions for this one indicate that it goes on the load side. The brand I install indicates line side.
There’s got to be good way to capture all that heat the outside unit is putting off, and put it into hot water for the house, or pool, or spa.
I thought my heat pump would do that, use the heat from A/C to do the DHW, but that was not the case ☹️
It's called a heat pump water heater.
@@AustinMichael I have a heat pump water heater, it has nothing to do with the hot air output of my HVAC unit.