I got the EG4 Hybrid Solar Mini-Split Kit Air Conditioner Heat Pump AC/DC| 24000 BTU It was a simple setup, also works well. When I installed my system, turned it on to check it and I had to look at the lights to make sure it was working (It was so quiet. ) within a few seconds it was ice cold coming out of the unit. Im very happy with my purchase! Install was simple. Hardest part was figuring out where to put my solar panels.
I finally got my EG4 9k DIY mini-split installed in my shed and it works fantastic. It's a nice wood framed shed with windows and insulation, etc. and the mini-split can get the temp down to the low 60's even in 90 degree weather. The efficiency of the 9k is almost unbelievable, and it's incredibly quiet.
I just installed one, works in concert with my central AC. It cut my electric bill by more than half in the past two hot months. Looking into getting more solar panels and adding batteries to power it and possibly a DC electric water heater 24/7.
I really appreciate the in-depth video and comments. Will you be having any Christmas specials? Also, any recommendations on how to best drill through concrete block?
I just installed the 12k mini in my off grid cabin. It is very easy, and I am impressed with the performance. The only thing I am wanting is a tutorial of the remote, and how to get the most out of its features.
@@SignatureSolar The remote can be confusing, But more so the app and connecting the system to the Bluetooth devices or WiFi.... Just a thought... but Most phones have gone to 5G how are you supposed to connect to a 5g connection.
I've got an AC/DC12C Mini-split running strictly off solar in Florida. The EG4 is probably better but mine works. The only thing that bothers me is that I am not using my solar on days when it is sunny but not hot enough to run the AC. On hot evenings I want to run it but the sun goes down so I have to use grid power. I have (5) 400-watt panels and was wondering if you had any suggestions on how to add a battery to the system. This would make a great video I think. Thanks!
How can you reset the wifi connection? The manual says press the light button 8 times which I did and got it into pairing mode, but when I connect and set up the wifi it takes a while before failing. I had it working for a little while, but it seems the wifi configuration likes to reset itself periodically and it’s a MAJOR pita to get it working again. I did not sign up to sit in front of this thing for an hour a week on my phone troubleshooting.
I installed solar unit and it works good. I am wondering where the inside unit is sensing the room temperature because it always seems to cool the room much cooler than the unit temperature setting. Does it sense temperature from remote - or from a sensor on the wall hung inside fan unit ?
I am wondering this same thing. I installed a 24k last week and when you remove the piece that holds the wires in place on the inside, there's a free hanging wire with plastic on it. I assume this is the thermostat, but not sure. It doesn't look like it serves any other purpose. I have my unit set at 74F but it always says in the app it's 69-71F. It literally freezes the floor in front of the unit so it's like I'm in the Arctic when walking by lol. I'd raise the temp, but then the rest of the house would be too warm.
The temperature of the air in the room is measured by a probe located on the head unit. This probe is situated on the right side of the unit, beneath the filter cover, and it captures the temperature of the incoming air.
@@SignatureSolar The app will show a room temperature much colder than the set temperature. This is confirmed by other thermometers in the room. So the unit should not continue to cool if the room temperature is much colder than the set temperature . I am talking about 4 to 5 degrees colder . So something does not seem right in it's controller when it keeps cooling despite room being below the controlled setpoint . This is noticed not just by me as other comment shows.
at the 6 min mark you are giving #'s relative to each unit. I'll suggest you could overlay a table graphic displaying the info as you speak it. It would register in the brain stronger.
Could you make one improvement to the solar mini split? Let the mini split send out extra power to charge a 96v battery system. The system will prioritize solar array input, but when solar input is not available, draw power from the 96v battery bank. No inverter is needed.
Does the EG4 Mini Split sit level, are is it lower on on side? I used there bracket that has a level on it and backed it up with 2ft. level they both are dead on. But unit is a 1/4 in. lower on one side. is this for some sort of drain? I'm talking about the outside unit!
Is a rapid shutdown system needed on the solar panels? Are there any you recommend that would work without a separate grid or off grid power solution, such as when the power is out? Is there a rapid shutdown system transmitter built into the unit?
As long as the Voltage is correct, and your wattage is good, amperage will be just fine. The Max VOC will be the most important spec to pay attention to.
I just received my EG4 12K Solar Hybrid Heat Pump Split Unit. Your first sentence seems to close the deal, nothing more need be said. Yet you add the VOC needing the most attention? This opens a slew of questions for me. I am using the rated spec (W and V) to compute my numbers, theoretically the maximum that could occur on a perfect inclination/orientation/longitude/hot sun... that the panel will output? To place this in context: (if the answer to all 3 questions is yes, I am ok to take the chance without knowing the answers to all the questions below these 3) Say on an in series string of 2 (600W 48V) panels, plus 1 (400W 48V), I have 1600W total, and 144V total which gives me 11.11Amps. 1. I am not even sure if mixing panels with various Watts is ok, but the obvious math seems to work? 2. is that not adequate to run a AG4 12K solar hybrid A/C? RECOMMENDED SOLAR INPUT: 1000-1600W (90VDC-380VDC) 1600/90 - 18A??? - at 144V it would pull 1600W/144 = 11.11A ? may be less in eco mode? 3. and does it not satisfy charging a 3600Wh [75Ah] generator that accepts: 1600W, 11-150V, 15A on the solar input? So why use the (max) VOC? The VOC being the Voltage the panel puts out under no load? ...and is much lower than the rated Voltage. Why is the VOC the most important? In my scenario in -20F it would only pull less than 90V !? Below, I am including the solar panel specs, because I have no idea which parameter is which, as parameters are not named precisely consistently across venues, and individuals? The VOC is never mentioned as 'max' ??? ~ that tends to point to max Operating Voltage??? ...and as a noob, I would think that the Voltage that is maximum while in operation, is the one I would key on, since it is the lowest and a better choice to optimize the system... but would that be short/blind on tolerance, ranges, limits? So I don't even know how to ask proper questions. Ex: 400W rated panel 48V - (48V rated ?) Short Circuit Current: 13.79A SCC ? Open Circuit Voltage: 37.10V OCV (VOC) ? Efficiency: 23% Rated Power: 400W Maximum Operating Voltage: 31.00V - max ? lower than the rated, even lower than the VOC ??? - and why is the Operating V not 48V ? What is happening in a solar panel that causes the Voltage to not be a constant? - is it a matter of the ambient light strength that kicks in the cells to generate a Voltage dependent of that strength hence variable? ...and why it has more Voltage under no load vs under load? Maximum Operating Current: 12.90A - I guess if the charger is 15A, it fits?: - But EG4? (may draw up to18A ???) (Side note: What about the Vimp? Vmp? and all the other Voltage types mentioned?)
Your mini split use R410 and Mike said the FPA going to get rid of it. So what about the products you've sold? If they need refill? Or what is going to happen to your mini splits you have in stock?
January 1, 2025: The EPA will set a 750 global warming potential (GWP) limit for air conditioning, which means R-410A (GWP of 2,088) will no longer be able to be used in new equipment. Self-contained HVAC systems using R-410A will also no longer be manufactured or imported after this date. However, there is a three-year sell-through period, so self-contained or packaged units can be sold, exported, and installed through January 1, 2028.
I have a mobile application. Since I don't want to dedicate the few solar panels I have to just the air conditioner, I'm wondering if there is a way to wire it up to receive DC power from a source that isn't a solar panel...
It will be very tight, especially if your wall is already closed on the "outside". I also don't know how you would hang the unit with the lines trying to go down inside the wall. The "normal" install for these units is the lines go completely thru the wall which means you hang the interior unit with the lines poking straight to outside, and being outside gives you a lot of working room to carefully bend the lines down at that time.
I bet they would run from a battery if you had a battery with high enough voltage. They need from 90v to 380v D.C. That would be at least two 48v rack batteries in SERIES but I don't know of any 48v battery that can be used in SERIES because the MOSFETS in the normal BMS cannot handle that voltage. There are higher voltage D.C. systems available, but not typically to the consumer DIY market.
@@Sylvan_dB yeah, I thought getting the correct voltage would be all that was needed. Thanks, I was not aware of the BMS limitations for running in series.
@@SignatureSolar what so it can ONLY be powered by solar panels? So it only works when your array is producing enough to cover the entire load? ...dealbreaker...
fundamental question for me because my mounting template for placing my bracket is a level, I measured the bracket again and the bracket is not level is there a reason for that? #There is a loose connector gray cable and white connector where that connector connects thank
Hi! We'd like to ensure we have all the details of your questions to answer accurately. If you'd like to reach out to us directly at engagament@signaturesolar.com with a photo of both issues mentioned and we will get those answers for you!
@@SignatureSolar I installed it yesterday and had a small problem because the mold was not the same as for a 9k one and I bought the 12k one. Now it works perfectly without much noise. and I put his circuit with his service breaker 20 A
How long is the drain line from the blower unit? And how long is the power cord from the blower unit? Are they the same length as the 16ft pre-charged lines?
Yes it's either the same or very close. I installed a 24k last week and had to cut the drain line shorter. Initially, the water backed up because the drain line was dragging the ground and not letting water flow out properly.
Hi! There could be a few reasons but if you'd like to call into our tech support line at 903-441-2090, we can look into your issue and get you taken care of!
I enjoy our 24k Solar Hybrid Mini-Split but have noticed issues with the solar properly activating during the day. Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't. I have to disconnect and reconnect the solar to the unit in order to "reset" it so it will actually accept solar input. Not sure what the issues is and talking with Signature Solar has not resulted in any solution.
I have had similar issues as yours and unfortunately not had much better luck. Resetting the unit seems to be the best thing. I believe the MPPT unit inside the unit needs quite a bit of sun to get going.. like its charging up a capacitor and it can only do that while the unit is running on AC power. It seems if you leave the unit plugged in/ leave the breaker on for it after it has been running that it won't have that problem.. Just my 2 cents from messing with mine. They could definitely be improved, but even with the problems they have they are definitely still worth it for their cost savings.. That is if they will hold up for several years.
Same issue here. Some days, it's great like yesterday where I started getting some solar fairly early in the morning (between 7:00 and 8:00). But other full-sun days I won't have any solar at all at 10:00 and I have to turn the solar disconnect off and back on to get the solar to engage.
When I was running it on just solar pv I noticed it wouldn't always start up even when it had a lot of light on the pv . I would turn it off and back on and then it would go on solar. But since then I have connected the AC to it and it works better on switching between the two - seems like it needs the AC to keep it's controller active and then can determine to start taking in solar or split the solar and AC .
@@LarryKapp1believe it will attempt to reconnect several times under low power situations. If unable it will turn off and quit trying hence the need to reset. I believe I saw this information in the manual but don’t remember for sure.
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I got the EG4 Hybrid Solar Mini-Split Kit Air Conditioner Heat Pump AC/DC| 24000 BTU It was a simple setup, also works well. When I installed my system, turned it on to check it and I had to look at the lights to make sure it was working (It was so quiet. ) within a few seconds it was ice cold coming out of the unit. Im very happy with my purchase! Install was simple. Hardest part was figuring out where to put my solar panels.
Thank you so much for your feedback!
I finally got my EG4 9k DIY mini-split installed in my shed and it works fantastic. It's a nice wood framed shed with windows and insulation, etc. and the mini-split can get the temp down to the low 60's even in 90 degree weather. The efficiency of the 9k is almost unbelievable, and it's incredibly quiet.
Thank you so much for your feedback!! Please let us know if you need any support!
I just installed one, works in concert with my central AC. It cut my electric bill by more than half in the past two hot months. Looking into getting more solar panels and adding batteries to power it and possibly a DC electric water heater 24/7.
I really appreciate the in-depth video and comments. Will you be having any Christmas specials?
Also, any recommendations on how to best drill through concrete block?
When are you coming out with a unit that connects to existing ducting?
I just installed the 12k mini in my off grid cabin. It is very easy, and I am impressed with the performance. The only thing I am wanting is a tutorial of the remote, and how to get the most out of its features.
Thank you so much for your feedback! If you'd like to reach out to our tech team at 903-441-2090, we can walk you through any settings you need!
@@SignatureSolar The remote can be confusing, But more so the app and connecting the system to the Bluetooth devices or WiFi.... Just a thought... but Most phones have gone to 5G how are you supposed to connect to a 5g connection.
I've got an AC/DC12C Mini-split running strictly off solar in Florida. The EG4 is probably better but mine works. The only thing that bothers me is that I am not using my solar on days when it is sunny but not hot enough to run the AC. On hot evenings I want to run it but the sun goes down so I have to use grid power. I have (5) 400-watt panels and was wondering if you had any suggestions on how to add a battery to the system. This would make a great video I think. Thanks!
You advertise that it's diy but if you dig... you also say the warranty is voided if a licensed tech doesn't do the install. Kind of tricky.
Seriously? That’s brutal.
How can you reset the wifi connection? The manual says press the light button 8 times which I did and got it into pairing mode, but when I connect and set up the wifi it takes a while before failing. I had it working for a little while, but it seems the wifi configuration likes to reset itself periodically and it’s a MAJOR pita to get it working again. I did not sign up to sit in front of this thing for an hour a week on my phone troubleshooting.
Hi! If you'd like to reach out to us at 903-441-2090, we can help you reset it and ensure everything is working!
I installed solar unit and it works good. I am wondering where the inside unit is sensing the room temperature because it always seems to cool the room much cooler than the unit temperature setting. Does it sense temperature from remote - or from a sensor on the wall hung inside fan unit ?
I am wondering this same thing. I installed a 24k last week and when you remove the piece that holds the wires in place on the inside, there's a free hanging wire with plastic on it. I assume this is the thermostat, but not sure. It doesn't look like it serves any other purpose.
I have my unit set at 74F but it always says in the app it's 69-71F. It literally freezes the floor in front of the unit so it's like I'm in the Arctic when walking by lol. I'd raise the temp, but then the rest of the house would be too warm.
@@mechillii they say in the online manual to ignore that connector . Maybe they will answer our questions about this. Seems like something is wrong .
The temperature of the air in the room is measured by a probe located on the head unit. This probe is situated on the right side of the unit, beneath the filter cover, and it captures the temperature of the incoming air.
@@SignatureSolar The app will show a room temperature much colder than the set temperature. This is confirmed by other thermometers in the room. So the unit should not continue to cool if the room temperature is much colder than the set temperature . I am talking about 4 to 5 degrees colder . So something does not seem right in it's controller when it keeps cooling despite room being below the controlled setpoint . This is noticed not just by me as other comment shows.
at the 6 min mark you are giving #'s relative to each unit. I'll suggest you could overlay a table graphic displaying the info as you speak it. It would register in the brain stronger.
Where is the video for hooking up a new system I have 1 12k and 3 indoor batteries bought from signature solar
do you send the solar one to Puerto Rico?
We ship overseas using freight forwarders!
Could you make one improvement to the solar mini split? Let the mini split send out extra power to charge a 96v battery system. The system will prioritize solar array input, but when solar input is not available, draw power from the 96v battery bank. No inverter is needed.
Thank you for your feedback! We will forward your thoughts to the manufacturer!
Does the EG4 Mini Split sit level, are is it lower on on side? I used there bracket that has a level on it and backed it up with 2ft. level they both are dead on. But unit is a 1/4 in. lower on one side. is this for some sort of drain? I'm talking about the outside unit!
I presume a rapid shutdown system is required if the PV array is on a building?
Is a rapid shutdown system needed on the solar panels? Are there any you recommend that would work without a separate grid or off grid power solution, such as when the power is out? Is there a rapid shutdown system transmitter built into the unit?
Really That is a State issue, Most states Will force you to have a rss if you install your solar panels on the roof of your home.
What about solar panel amp rating is this a issue?
As long as the Voltage is correct, and your wattage is good, amperage will be just fine. The Max VOC will be the most important spec to pay attention to.
I just received my EG4 12K Solar Hybrid Heat Pump Split Unit.
Your first sentence seems to close the deal, nothing more need be said.
Yet you add the VOC needing the most attention?
This opens a slew of questions for me.
I am using the rated spec (W and V) to compute my numbers, theoretically the maximum that could occur on a perfect inclination/orientation/longitude/hot sun... that the panel will output?
To place this in context:
(if the answer to all 3 questions is yes, I am ok to take the chance without knowing the answers to all the questions below these 3)
Say on an in series string of 2 (600W 48V) panels, plus 1 (400W 48V),
I have 1600W total, and 144V total which gives me 11.11Amps.
1. I am not even sure if mixing panels with various Watts is ok, but the obvious math seems to work?
2. is that not adequate to run a AG4 12K solar hybrid A/C? RECOMMENDED SOLAR INPUT: 1000-1600W (90VDC-380VDC) 1600/90 - 18A???
- at 144V it would pull 1600W/144 = 11.11A ? may be less in eco mode?
3. and does it not satisfy charging a 3600Wh [75Ah] generator that accepts:
1600W, 11-150V, 15A on the solar input?
So why use the (max) VOC? The VOC being the Voltage the panel puts out under no load? ...and is much lower than the rated Voltage.
Why is the VOC the most important?
In my scenario in -20F it would only pull less than 90V !?
Below, I am including the solar panel specs, because I have no idea which parameter is which, as parameters are not named precisely consistently across venues, and individuals?
The VOC is never mentioned as 'max' ??? ~ that tends to point to max Operating Voltage???
...and as a noob, I would think that the Voltage that is maximum while in operation, is the one I would key on, since it is the lowest and a better choice to optimize the system... but would that be short/blind on tolerance, ranges, limits?
So I don't even know how to ask proper questions.
Ex: 400W rated panel 48V
- (48V rated ?)
Short Circuit Current: 13.79A SCC ?
Open Circuit Voltage: 37.10V OCV (VOC) ?
Efficiency: 23%
Rated Power: 400W
Maximum Operating Voltage: 31.00V
- max ? lower than the rated, even lower than the VOC ???
- and why is the Operating V not 48V ? What is happening in
a solar panel that causes the Voltage to not be a constant?
- is it a matter of the ambient light strength that kicks in the cells
to generate a Voltage dependent of that strength hence variable?
...and why it has more Voltage under no load vs under load?
Maximum Operating Current: 12.90A
- I guess if the charger is 15A, it fits?:
- But EG4? (may draw up to18A ???)
(Side note: What about the Vimp? Vmp? and all the other Voltage types mentioned?)
Your mini split use R410 and Mike said the FPA going to get rid of it. So what about the products you've sold? If they need refill? Or what is going to happen to your mini splits you have in stock?
January 1, 2025: The EPA will set a 750 global warming potential (GWP) limit for air conditioning, which means R-410A (GWP of 2,088) will no longer be able to be used in new equipment. Self-contained HVAC systems using R-410A will also no longer be manufactured or imported after this date. However, there is a three-year sell-through period, so self-contained or packaged units can be sold, exported, and installed through January 1, 2028.
I have a mobile application. Since I don't want to dedicate the few solar panels I have to just the air conditioner, I'm wondering if there is a way to wire it up to receive DC power from a source that isn't a solar panel...
Just PV, you'd otherwise have to use an inverter and then it'd be AC.
I want to put this on an interior 2x4 wall. Will the 3 1/2" cavity provide enough space to bend the copper lines down without kinking? Thank you.
It will be very tight, especially if your wall is already closed on the "outside". I also don't know how you would hang the unit with the lines trying to go down inside the wall. The "normal" install for these units is the lines go completely thru the wall which means you hang the interior unit with the lines poking straight to outside, and being outside gives you a lot of working room to carefully bend the lines down at that time.
We have seen and ran the line sets in a standard 2x4 wall cavity, extreme caution has to be taken as to not kink the the line set.
@@SignatureSolar Thank you for the response
Can I run the lines from inside unit out the side and up into attic ? My wall is concrete but in attic I can run out roof sides which is wood.
You should avoid running the lines upward, as the drainage needs to flow downward to exit properly.
Is it possible to run the hybrid units off of DC only? Edit: I should have said straight from a battery bank. lol
All day long with sun
You cannot run the unit on just batteries.
I bet they would run from a battery if you had a battery with high enough voltage. They need from 90v to 380v D.C. That would be at least two 48v rack batteries in SERIES but I don't know of any 48v battery that can be used in SERIES because the MOSFETS in the normal BMS cannot handle that voltage. There are higher voltage D.C. systems available, but not typically to the consumer DIY market.
@@Sylvan_dB yeah, I thought getting the correct voltage would be all that was needed. Thanks, I was not aware of the BMS limitations for running in series.
@@SignatureSolar what so it can ONLY be powered by solar panels? So it only works when your array is producing enough to cover the entire load? ...dealbreaker...
fundamental question for me because my mounting template for placing my bracket is a level, I measured the bracket again and the bracket is not level is there a reason for that? #There is a loose connector gray cable and white connector where that connector connects thank
Hi! We'd like to ensure we have all the details of your questions to answer accurately. If you'd like to reach out to us directly at engagament@signaturesolar.com with a photo of both issues mentioned and we will get those answers for you!
@@SignatureSolar I installed it yesterday and had a small problem because the mold was not the same as for a 9k one and I bought the 12k one. Now it works perfectly without much noise. and I put his circuit with his service breaker 20 A
Do you sell 2,and 3 zone mini splits?
We do not sell these at this time.
@@SignatureSolarWell you be selling them in the future?
Do you sell cassette ceiling units with more than one head for large rooms instead of one wall unit?
How long is the drain line from the blower unit? And how long is the power cord from the blower unit? Are they the same length as the 16ft pre-charged lines?
Yes it's either the same or very close. I installed a 24k last week and had to cut the drain line shorter. Initially, the water backed up because the drain line was dragging the ground and not letting water flow out properly.
Drainpipe 5 ft. length x .59 in. diameter (1.5m x 15mm)
Why wouldn't the Condensate Drain line be attached to the LineSet side pre-shipping? and have the 2nd way plugged but there if needed?
Hi! Would you mind clarifying what you mean?
@@SignatureSolar Why is the Condensate Drain Hose on the opposite side as the others that go thru the wall?
Understood! This would be a question for the manufacturer. You can reach them at support@eg4electronics.com :)
Are the prices on these mini splits and EG4 inverters going to be affected by the tariffs? Or are we mainly looking at solar panels?
It's just the panels for now
@@SignatureSolar great news thanks 👍🏻
"Extreme" efficiency?
How efficient are they when it comes to Heating?
It's the same process as cooling but reversed. It should be just as efficient.
Hi Kelly my name is Keith I have a eg4 mini split I installed it and turn everything on but my solar is not working am I doing something wrong
Hi! There could be a few reasons but if you'd like to call into our tech support line at 903-441-2090, we can look into your issue and get you taken care of!
People want different styles-ceiling cassettes for multiple zones, hidden consoles, floor or ceiling mounted consoles, and HIGHER BTU solar systems
Why do you install the drain line opposite to the line sets? All the RUclipsrs move it to the same side of where the lien set is coming out.
That is how it is packaged for shipping for protection.
I enjoy our 24k Solar Hybrid Mini-Split but have noticed issues with the solar properly activating during the day. Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't. I have to disconnect and reconnect the solar to the unit in order to "reset" it so it will actually accept solar input. Not sure what the issues is and talking with Signature Solar has not resulted in any solution.
I have had similar issues as yours and unfortunately not had much better luck.
Resetting the unit seems to be the best thing.
I believe the MPPT unit inside the unit needs quite a bit of sun to get going.. like its charging up a capacitor and it can only do that while the unit is running on AC power.
It seems if you leave the unit plugged in/ leave the breaker on for it after it has been running that it won't have that problem..
Just my 2 cents from messing with mine.
They could definitely be improved, but even with the problems they have they are definitely still worth it for their cost savings..
That is if they will hold up for several years.
Same issue here. Some days, it's great like yesterday where I started getting some solar fairly early in the morning (between 7:00 and 8:00). But other full-sun days I won't have any solar at all at 10:00 and I have to turn the solar disconnect off and back on to get the solar to engage.
When I was running it on just solar pv I noticed it wouldn't always start up even when it had a lot of light on the pv . I would turn it off and back on and then it would go on solar. But since then I have connected the AC to it and it works better on switching between the two - seems like it needs the AC to keep it's controller active and then can determine to start taking in solar or split the solar and AC .
@@LarryKapp1believe it will attempt to reconnect several times under low power situations. If unable it will turn off and quit trying hence the need to reset. I believe I saw this information in the manual but don’t remember for sure.