Definitely some good info in this video. Also the reason you have that little bit of play in the bearings is to allow for expansion when the bearings and races heat up.
This is a perfect video on how to service bearings best one I've seen on RUclips so many of these people have no idea how to set preload on bearings that finger tight method was taught to me in the early 80s from Toyota motor Company. Great job at least one of these videos is done properly.
You need to tighten the nut with the hub spinning. Backing off allows the outer bearing to push out slightly and unseat from the race. Finger strength will not overcome the weight of the hub and fully seat the bearing. Spin the hub in the same direction as tightening. Never let go of the nut while the hub is spinning as sometimes the bearing will grab it and over tighten it. This will allow the bearing to pull in against the race and fully seat without excessive preload. The tighter end play this creates will be much much more forgiving if you need to back off to install whatever locking method the nut has.
Great video! So much crazy information out there. It was great to have someone who was knowledgeable, experienced and professional. It was very helpful.
Great video, but you're supposed to torque the spindle nut as the wheel is spinning, to properly seat the bearings. You had let it stop and were still tightening the nut. Everything else was spot on
Very interesting I was actually taught the opposite LOL. I suppose either way will work as long as the finished result is a wheel that doesn't shake and is not too tight!
Nate, you'll be able to seat it tighter before backing the nut off if you keep it spinning, then if you're very careful and don't move it loosening the nut and reset it hand tight you should pretty much have no slop in the bearings instead of the little bit you were describing. If you're able to stop the wheel completely without using something crazy like a 6' cheater you likely have worn bearings. Dissasemble, and check for wear on the bearing cages (rollers also, but cages contacting is what typically lets you completely jamb up the bearings by tightening the nut) BTW, same procedure on non-driven axle beargs on cars/trucks (at least on older ones that are adjustable)
just checked the Rockwell/dexter service manual for light axles. As i suspected, the bearing adjustment is 1/6 turn loose and more to align the cotter or keeper. you might also state that most nut keepers go behind the nut.
Noticed some wear on the rear axle tires of my travel trailer. There was lots of slop in the rear driver side. Figured it was stupid easy to adjust, but wanted to be sure. Thanks for the video!
Thank you. I was concerned with the little bit of play I have on my wheels. This eased my fears. I do have a question though. Sometimes I have a good amount of bounce back and sometimes I don't do you think it is load distribution, torsion axles going bad or hitch connection not right?
Iv always been taught it’s better to have it a little looser than to have the bearings with too much preload. If the nut doesn’t line up the cotter pin hole it’s better to back off the nut than to tighten it.
There is no need to seat bearings 50 ft/lbs that have been in service. That is for new bearings to make sure the races are seated. Preload is slightly more than finger tight or you will find play sooner which you do not want as it does not assure the weight of the load to be distributed evenly over more rollers. I have never in 51 years as a mechanic had wheel bearing failure from this correct preload adjustment.
Thank you! They slowly get out of adjustment from normal wear and tear. When you travel along a lot of dirt roads like I do it will wear them out even faster than normal.
Heat! They get hot and like most things of metal will change/shrink in time. This wear a good grease comes in to keep them from over heating too much. If you are looking at a used trailer it would be wise to change out the bearings so you know where you stand when you want to travel with it. Nothing like that new used trailer sitting on the highway with one wheel missing.
18 year old me.....Adjust the pads? Inspect the bearings? Nah, just snug her down and add some grease. 35 year old me, inspect and pack the bearings, new seal, inspect and adjust the pads. Use a hole can of brake clean on drum. Restill hub with proper preload.
The pocket recess between the inner and outer bearings in the drum/hub is huge. It wiil take nearly half the contents of a grease gun tube to fill it up. Note that the inlet hole is way back by the inner bearing, so that one should see the grease first.
on my small cheap utility trailers I pull the bearings apart, clean and inspect them, replace as needed, replace the inner seals even if they dont need it, re pack the bearing, and fill the bearing buddies once a year. if I dont I get a seized bearing and lots of problems
I shake the wheel anytime I'm about to go on a big trip to make sure there's no access Play. But I've owned this trailer for 3 years and this is the first time I felt like there was enough play to readjust them.
You really should use a torque wrench. With your guns, you probably put close to 100 Ft Lbs on it. Feel free to test my theory! I would also push in grease until I started seeing new. That was a good point about testing for play once tightened.
That is fine - you want to torque the piss out of it first - up to 200 ft lbs while spinning though 50 is generally fine. Then back off as he did but bearing manufacturers say to loosen a full turn, then tighten to 10 ft lbs WHILE SPINNING, then back off 1/6 to 1/4 turns.
Just had time to look at my watch later list,,so I know I'm a little behind but I am a subscriber and I try to keep up on the videos,, ramble ramble,,any f#+*k'n way good one!!🎉🔔
One of the common complaints of the Dexter EZLube axles. I've had it happen to me, grease on the brakes. You know what happens when the brakes fade away. I just pull them apart, clean, grease them, new seal (don't forget to grease the seal) and tighten properly. Too loose on the spindle nut, the bearings will be rattling around causing premature wear, and you'll likely lose the dust caps too, they fall off with the rattling. Check often.
Very unlikely. Sway is caused by speed, tow vehicle and trailer weight mismatch, bad trailer load distribution, and geometry of the tow vehicle and trailer.
this is by far the best and most accurate video on youtube on how to adjust Dexter axle wheel bearings, thank you for this!!!
Definitely some good info in this video. Also the reason you have that little bit of play in the bearings is to allow for expansion when the bearings and races heat up.
Thanks for the clear explanation. No extra info that we don't need.
I'll follow you now.
This is a perfect video on how to service bearings best one I've seen on RUclips so many of these people have no idea how to set preload on bearings that finger tight method was taught to me in the early 80s from Toyota motor Company. Great job at least one of these videos is done properly.
You need to tighten the nut with the hub spinning. Backing off allows the outer bearing to push out slightly and unseat from the race. Finger strength will not overcome the weight of the hub and fully seat the bearing. Spin the hub in the same direction as tightening. Never let go of the nut while the hub is spinning as sometimes the bearing will grab it and over tighten it. This will allow the bearing to pull in against the race and fully seat without excessive preload. The tighter end play this creates will be much much more forgiving if you need to back off to install whatever locking method the nut has.
Great video! So much crazy information out there. It was great to have someone who was knowledgeable, experienced and professional. It was very helpful.
Thank you for posting this, just what I was looking for to replace a wheel stud.
Great video, but you're supposed to torque the spindle nut as the wheel is spinning, to properly seat the bearings. You had let it stop and were still tightening the nut. Everything else was spot on
Very interesting I was actually taught the opposite LOL. I suppose either way will work as long as the finished result is a wheel that doesn't shake and is not too tight!
Nate, you'll be able to seat it tighter before backing the nut off if you keep it spinning, then if you're very careful and don't move it loosening the nut and reset it hand tight you should pretty much have no slop in the bearings instead of the little bit you were describing. If you're able to stop the wheel completely without using something crazy like a 6' cheater you likely have worn bearings. Dissasemble, and check for wear on the bearing cages (rollers also, but cages contacting is what typically lets you completely jamb up the bearings by tightening the nut)
BTW, same procedure on non-driven axle beargs on cars/trucks (at least on older ones that are adjustable)
just checked the Rockwell/dexter service manual for light axles. As i suspected, the bearing adjustment is 1/6 turn loose and more to align the cotter or keeper.
you might also state that most nut keepers go behind the nut.
Thank you for this. Bearings getting a little hot so now I am sure on how to adjust them
How do you know you just need to tighten it up versus getting new bearings? Though play in tire was a sign of bad bearings? TIA
Thanks a lot kid! You answered many questions I had. Bravo!
Noticed some wear on the rear axle tires of my travel trailer. There was lots of slop in the rear driver side. Figured it was stupid easy to adjust, but wanted to be sure. Thanks for the video!
Thanks for the trailer video. I would like to see a video from you on how to properly secure a Jeep on a trailer.
There's a thing called a torque wrench that TIMKEN bearings wants you to use for this. Not to mention checking the endplay. .001 to .005 inches.
That doesn't sound like the "easy" way at all!
@@fomocowboy truth. lol. I usually do it pretty much the same way as the guy in the video here.
@@natfunk71 Timken calls for 50lbs to set. Back off one full turn then tighten to 10 lbs. The first 50 seems like a lot
Thank you. I was concerned with the little bit of play I have on my wheels. This eased my fears. I do have a question though. Sometimes I have a good amount of bounce back and sometimes I don't do you think it is load distribution, torsion axles going bad or hitch connection not right?
I don't own a trailer, but will come in handy with friends trailer. Thanks for sharing.
No problem thanks for watching!
@@natebleepinjeep9564... Nate... I've enjoyed your input on Bleepinjeep.
@@redwhiteblue7831 glad to hear it! Its alot of work but I really enjoy making these videos
This is a great video... I'll be doing service on mine today
Job well done. Thank you. Do you have any older trailers with videos of greasing? If so please send a link. My utility trailer is like a 2000 8x16.
Very informative, clear and concise and to the point. Great video.
Thanks for the video! When finger tight mines there is one with a slight play and the other no play at all. Is that good?
Thanks for the advice. dexter is the axle i have.
Iv always been taught it’s better to have it a little looser than to have the bearings with too much preload.
If the nut doesn’t line up the cotter pin hole it’s better to back off the nut than to tighten it.
There is no need to seat bearings 50 ft/lbs that have been in service. That is for new bearings to make sure the races are seated. Preload is slightly more than finger tight or you will find play sooner which you do not want as it does not assure the weight of the load to be distributed evenly over more rollers. I have never in 51 years as a mechanic had wheel bearing failure from this correct preload adjustment.
Yep, perfect tip and thanks for keeping us informed.
Absolutely! Thanks for watching!
What knocks them out of adjustment? Good video as always
wear
Thank you! They slowly get out of adjustment from normal wear and tear. When you travel along a lot of dirt roads like I do it will wear them out even faster than normal.
Heat! They get hot and like most things of metal will change/shrink in time. This wear a good grease comes in to keep them from over heating too much. If you are looking at a used trailer it would be wise to change out the bearings so you know where you stand when you want to travel with it. Nothing like that new used trailer sitting on the highway with one wheel missing.
@@jimwhitman5805 very well said my friend!
I pump grease in mine till i see the new grease coming out. I do that to get all the old crap out usually about a half a tube of Grease
Do you find you need to readjust the bearings every time you grease, like every 10-12000 miles?
18 year old me.....Adjust the pads? Inspect the bearings? Nah, just snug her down and add some grease.
35 year old me, inspect and pack the bearings, new seal, inspect and adjust the pads. Use a hole can of brake clean on drum. Restill hub with proper preload.
How do you adjust the muffler bearings?
muffler bearing are a replace only item, dont go cheap either.
Nah, you can do the same thing, it's just reversed..
Mat has a video on that! He will help you check your blinker fluid as well
Jokes on you. Muffler bearings are lifetime parts (unless made in China) lol
Thanks have had my trailer for over a year and need to lube the wheels
Wheels take a different kind of grease...make sure to call your vehicle manufacturer
Great information, thank you for your video
You can actually blow the back seal out by over greasing. Too much grease causes friction which overheats the grease and destroys it.
The pocket recess between the inner and outer bearings in the drum/hub is huge. It wiil take nearly half the contents of a grease gun tube to fill it up. Note that the inlet hole is way back by the inner bearing, so that one should see the grease first.
If you dont overfill the cup (leave air for expansion) it wont blow
If I don't have to replace any bearings just tighten it up how much should I charge for that
How often would you do this on a trailer? I don't own a trailer, just wondering.
Khorsathedark.....I repack the bearings and do this every set of tires, maybe every 5,000 to 10,000 miles, trailer tires don't seem to last too long.
on my small cheap utility trailers I pull the bearings apart, clean and inspect them, replace as needed, replace the inner seals even if they dont need it, re pack the bearing, and fill the bearing buddies once a year. if I dont I get a seized bearing and lots of problems
I shake the wheel anytime I'm about to go on a big trip to make sure there's no access Play. But I've owned this trailer for 3 years and this is the first time I felt like there was enough play to readjust them.
Thanks. I just replaced the races and bearing. I’m a little to tight.
Great vid, doing my dexter now
Good Show.
Thank you
what's a "little bit" of play in your opinion?
Does this work for all trailers with similar bearings.
pretty much
You really should use a torque wrench. With your guns, you probably put close to 100 Ft Lbs on it. Feel free to test my theory! I would also push in grease until I started seeing new. That was a good point about testing for play once tightened.
That is fine - you want to torque the piss out of it first - up to 200 ft lbs while spinning though 50 is generally fine. Then back off as he did but bearing manufacturers say to loosen a full turn, then tighten to 10 ft lbs WHILE SPINNING, then back off 1/6 to 1/4 turns.
I used a torque wrench and 50 seems like a lot for the preload. I loosened one full turn, then tightened to 10 pounds.
Thany you!😊
Just had time to look at my watch later list,,so I know I'm a little behind but I am a subscriber and I try to keep up on the videos,, ramble ramble,,any f#+*k'n way good one!!🎉🔔
Great video!
If you overpack the bearings, it will come out of the inner seal and contaminate the brake shoes-which will cause a fire if it overheats.
One of the common complaints of the Dexter EZLube axles. I've had it happen to me, grease on the brakes. You know what happens when the brakes fade away. I just pull them apart, clean, grease them, new seal (don't forget to grease the seal) and tighten properly. Too loose on the spindle nut, the bearings will be rattling around causing premature wear, and you'll likely lose the dust caps too, they fall off with the rattling. Check often.
If bearings are bad or sloppy on a single axle trailer will it cause sway?
I'd look at load distribution first.
Very unlikely. Sway is caused by speed, tow vehicle and trailer weight mismatch, bad trailer load distribution, and geometry of the tow vehicle and trailer.
I just need a trailer now haha
Awesome 😃 👍
Should there be any play in the wheel afterwards?
.001 to .005 inches of play.
You need to use a dial indicator to measure it.
If you put to much grease in there it will come out the seal back and get all over the brakes. Just saying.
You have a bad grease seal if that is happening. It will force it's way through the outer bearing before it pushes past the grease seal.
If it comes out the back, you’ve got bearing replacement on your horizon anyway.
More than 1/2 full of grease causes unwanted churning.
And here I thought I was going to have to tighten it to over 100 ft lbs like some older cars require on their spindle nuts.
Man... finger tight gives me anxiety lol
What's the weight on your trailer? Looks aluminum.
Easy peasy
No play.
Too much grease will blow the seal and your brake will be full of grease ....
“Finger tight” is absolutely WRONG!
Source?
I disagree
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