Excellent video. I am always amazed at how many guys refuse to believe and potential danger with air storage tanks. Arguments come up on the online forums regularly. Too many take pressure tanks for granted when they can be bombs. I will refer to this video in hopes to convince the hard heads. PS all my air tanks have 2 safety valves. Nothing runs above 120psi. Edit: Also a tank story. Retired guy working on old truck in his barn behind the house. He goes in the house for lunch, and then there's a big BOOM. Goes out into the barn, the compressor has blown up, the tank went thru the back barn wall and out into the woods several hundred feet, missed many trees but finally hit one. 8ft x 8ft hole in the barn wall. It took him months before he got back working in the barn and got things repaired.
I know this video is 1 year old. But it's never too late to say.. Thank you sir for sharing this knowledge. You have saved hundreds of lives. and counting. Including mine. Wish I had seen this earlier.
I clicked on this video thinking it was about Tanks, like the M1 Abrams, knowing I will never use the information but wanted to know it anyways. I will still never use this information, but I still watched the whole thing and I'm glad I know that information now.
Thank you! I haven't received a ton of training on tanks at my work since we take care of so many different types of equipment and I wanted to get more familiar so I can make sure everyone is safe. So glad I came across your video! Thank you sir!
Thank you soo much for this video. I just heard a leak in my 1940's 80 gallon tank, coming from the bottom. I was considering welding and got here first. Drained it completely, and now looking for a new tank.
I was once at a friends place and he brought out an older Craftsman compressor to use. He plugged it and and started it up As it was building pressure, I noticed the tank was 'sizzling' like somebody was frying bacon. I looked at the tank, and immediately yanked the cord out of the outlet to turn it off, and told the owner that the tank was a bomb that could go off at any moment, and he should not use it, and replace the tank at once.
I bought a used Craftsman upright compressor a couple of years ago. I drained a fair amount of water out of it. I was religious draining it after each use . Brown stuff (rust) plugging the drain. Finally I tip it on the side & used a oil can put X- amount of oil in the drain valve. I cycled the compressor a few times until the rusty scale stop coming out. NOW it freely drains water with no issues. A Note too others Please follow the owners manual! USAF 1981-85
I have always replaced the safety valve or blow-off valves in my compressor tanks with ones slightly below the maximum working pressure I use and most often well below the MFGs suggested one. Besides normal maintenance, I've always figured this gives me just a little more margin of safety.
I tell my ex boss all the time about draining the compressor...I know for a fact since departing from his business that compressor is not being maintained... great presentation thank you sir
In the AF we drained ours at beginning of shift every morning. Would let it run with drain valve a couple minutes. If you did not moisture would come out when using air gun.
I don't know what that "pounds of stored energy" means, but we have units that work perfectly well for force and energy. I'll redo the calculations and the result might be surprising. The tank has 175 PSI in it. That converts to ~1.2 Megapascal in pressure. The volume of the tank is listed as 80 gallons, which is ~302 liters. We need to know the temperature for our energy calculation, so I'll use 293k, which is about 67 Fahrenheit. That works out to about 1007 kilojoules. A stick of dynamite produces about 2.1 megajoules when detonated. So, that air tank has the destructive potential of about a stick of dynamite in it! Treat it with care.
@@secondwindmusicproductions Oof, I didn't notice I copied the wrong excel cell into my final answer. A stick of dynamite is about 2.1 megajoules. The 1000 megajoule cell was one of my conversion factors, not the final result. The air compressor tank has about as much energy as 1/2 a stick of tnt.
I enjoyed your video .Back in the 1950s when I was a small kid a compressor in a small gas station in a nearby town exploded. The blast almost leveled the building. I don't remember if anyone was hurt or killed.
Such an important video. Even the best compressor will fail if it's not properly maintained, and from what I have seen on YT these "exploding compressors" aren't being maintained!
My father told me once , if you take any pressure vessel. Tire , air tank , even a propane cylinder think about the PSI. That pressure is at every square inch inside. He would say. How many postage stamps could stick on the inside of that vessel ? Kind of spooky when you look at it that way
Mr. Guru, Thanks for making this video. I am always in advocate for being safe. I would like to ask a question, what is the importance of draining the tank every day? I understand water and metal don’t get along with each other, but as soon as you turn these things on condensation starts to build up and pools at the bottom. So even if you drain it every day you’re not going to get 100% of the water out and it’s always gonna be damp inside which is going to promote rust. Thanks! God bless!! Blue
I think the best reply might be the couple drops that accumulate in the bottom of the tank does not INSTANTLY cause rust. An auto tank drain (which we sell ) eliminates having to remember to drain the tank REGULARLY. Not hollering at you but good practices will make thing last longer. thanks Blue
Thank you Guru for this important Safety reminder. I bought a broken oilless compressor & broken pressure washer from a young construction worker friend. As he moved the compressor to load it on my truck, I heard it sloshing! I got it home & it was half full of water! No drain valve, just a factory painted plug, frozen in place! I like to think I saved his life. I remind him to this day to daily drain their air tanks. I will cut open this tank to serve as an example or hydrotest it to failure with pictures (either way). Paul.
Ironically, on the other hand, having a large amount of water in the tank might mitigate an explosion and save a life, since failures usually happen on the tank bottoms and making the air try to push out the incomepressible water would take longer for all the energy to get released.
JB Weld... wow. I wouldn't even repair one myself the CORRECT way. For me (not a compressor repairman) , if a tank has been compromised, its time for a new tank.
So i got a delta tank 80 gallon i pullled plug out of bottom, To get the loose rust out i used evapo rust mixed some getting fluids. such as PB blaster seafoam into it can I rinsed it out again with baking soda water the tanks probably about 22 years old.I did buy the proper pressure release valve new sat in barn outta use for probably 15 years. Was it bad that i had added vinger into a guy told i probably shouldnt disturbed the rust with that stuff so then i added baking soda solution to it rinsed it again
Loose rust is not the concern. I think you are fine. but if concerned about tank stability , hydro test it. simply and quick not exactly but you will know if you can trust it.
i have a old craftsman air compressor from 1980 i think it had a leak in the bottom of tank i guess it seal it self with some rust from inside the tank i can feel rust bits comeing out of the drain plug I'm getting rid of it I'm not even messing with it 😁
Absolutely everyone with any size compressor should watch this. I've seen countless videos on RUclips of peoples janky set-ups based on other peoples janky set-up that should get 1000 thumbs down but instead get 1000 thumbs up because no one actually knows WTF they are doing. It's all test piloting unproven ideas. My added advice in addition to internal inspection and hydro testing is #1 make sure you have proper safety valves installed that are less than the max pressure rating of your tank and make sure they are in any location where the pump could over-pump a linked line or an auxiliary tank or both. #2 Understand that pressure ratings on tanks and all fittings, lines, etc are greatly reduced as heat is increased. This is why using PVC lines, while generally ok for home shops and smaller compressors, should never be located anywhere near the tank where air is still hot. IIRC, a 1" PVC line is typically rated at 500 psi but if the air is 200 degrees the rating drops to just 100 psi. Most home garage people operate their tanks at 100-130 psi.. so guess what could happen... BANG! PS - Keith Rucker of Vintage Machinery is a god among men.
Tried to see if mine is certified but only found that commercial use ones need certification. I bought a used Kobalt 26 gallon and is 16 years old. There is no rust on the external of tank. Now you have me wondering if I should use it. But I could turn it off at half way point to be on the safe side or should I even use it.
April 29, 2022 @12:25p pdt Salem Oregon We love your family and can’t go a day without looking forward to your next video. I put this up yesterday and now I can’t find it so I will give it another go - I included a link which I now see is a no no so I will not include it this time. The compressor tanks, especially the type that sits level and horizontal (like your red one) are time bombs waiting for a place to explode which will result in several of you going to the Emergency Room. (I don’t like the E.R.) Mine is vertical so I don’t worry about it as much. I saw your gauge reported well over 100psi in a horizontal tank. (older horizontal tank) You guys don’t need to lose arms and legs because we here in Oregon love your channel so much and your family is loved and popular more each day here in all fifty states. The RUclips title is - “Tank Safety, This video may SAVE YOUR LIFE!” and the RUclips channel title is - “THE Compressor Guru” Please be safe - //John in Oregon
Serious question - I have looked up many videos of tanks exploding. And all the failures I have seen have happened to sideways sitting tanks. Tanks that have the seam welded along the bottom. Do you think there is anything to that? I have not seen one of these failures on an upright tank. Not saying it doesn't happen. It just appears to happen more to sideways tanks.
Very Good Question. Just a guess 1 reason is most tank failures are on cheaper non coded tanks. they are usually horizontal. 2 the vertical tanks have a dished bottom and ALL water is in the dish. and drained more easily . in addition there are no welds on the tank till you get to the straight side of the tank, also I have to wonder when the bottoms are formed do they start with thicker steel because they are going to be stretched?? Really good question.
@@THECompressorGuru Thanks for the reply. I appreciate it. I agree with everything you said. And I wonder about the thicker steel as well. I have searched again and cannot find an upright failure online. I will keep searching. I like to see what the rip looks like if I can find one.
@@THECompressorGuru I wanted to come back and add to this. I just got an upright replacement for my old rig. I am going to take a camera to the insides and document it as it ages. I will compile the information.
No. but a rule of thumb for most insurance inspectors is to have them Hydro tested when 40 years old. we do have government boiler inspectors here I know they will show up and give a certificate and a metal tag to the bigger industrial customers. I have had some issues with an inspector that did not understand why a different safety valve on a tube before a check valve. I think that logic explanation might make a good episode.
several things to consider. what size is the tank? and is it worth doing a hydro test? rust colored water is normal but the age give me pause to do some more checking.
It's a 12 gallon. I kind want to get a smaller one since my only use these days is filling tires and maybe blowing dirt off/out of something. After watching your video and others, I want to find one with an ASME tank but that seem unavailable in smaller compressors. @@THECompressorGuru
@@Hybridog I do not know weather i would bother with a tank that small. when I do have them in to work on ( my labor rate usually discourages that) I turn them on and have them outside the shop and wait til i hear them shut off before I go near them that is how confident I am in these small uncoded tanks. I think t may be time to shop for a new small comressor.
the Psi Relay Contact points got stuck and allowed for a continues running or someone adjusted them to pump even higher psi then it was designed for .. I'd say it was stuck Contact points that did continuing run because that was allot more then 130 - 150 psi that did something like that more like 300+psi that did do that. these contact relay points are some what or were once like what they have on Water Well Pumps to turn on and off the pump from 20psi to 60 psi of water or water tank psi,.
your tank safety should have relived the pressure when it got to the valve setting which should match the Max working pressure of the tank! shut it down and a change the switch B find the cert tag on the tank C put the proper safety valve on. I sell the switch and valve you may contact me through thecompressorguru.com shut it down SHUT IT DOWN!!
OSHA tests the wall thickness of my tank every 3 years using ultra sound. Even that doesn’t seem too thorough. And the guys they send out are not the sharpest.
I use a large 4500psi compressor for my pcp Airguns and I always wonder if that compressor ever gernades or my 4500psi 98CF carbon fiber air tank ever exploded what kind of damage would that do, probably be catastrophic
Hydro testing is a relatively easy task now if you have any pressure washer. You just have to get the right fittings. I'm working on it now. I'll video the test. My 50 year old compressor shows no signs of degradation but I'll be testing it as the Guru suggests you can bet. First I am testing the one I just welded uo with ss mig. I know but what the heck, right? Call me curious. 😎🤣
Are there a catalog of images for examples of acceptable vs excessive rust? I have a 21 year old tank that I just bought, there was, to me, what seemed like a fair amout of rust flakes in the bottom. Last guy said he drained it daily. I cleaned the chips all out, lightly hammered it all around the bottom and it appeared to ring solid and bright. I also Hydrotested it according to the video you mentioned to 250psi (certified WP 150) and it held pressure. No signs of any welding or attempted repairs. I suppose that means its okay for now? This is my first larger compressor, 60gal whereas my last one was 20, so the potential energy storage has me a little uneasy. I also used some evaporust and it looks a lot better. Still some rust, but the bottom doesn't look that smooth compared to the top. Hard to tell honestly through a 2" bung.
My co worker had his vertical tank blow up thru the roof like a rocket and kick out the concrete block wall when it went off. Too bad I didn't get a picture for you on that. It must have sounded like a bomb went off I am sure of that! Good thing no one was even near it when it failed it caused a lot of collateral damage in a 10 foot radius.
I am wondering if a DYI hydro test really proves out the tank? I guess I have this odd feeling that it could hold fine on a test at150%, but does that really mean it won't bust over the next 200 air pressure cycles?
Yes someone has an old compressor that set up for 175 lb why not install a new safety valve and lower the pressure to 150 or 125 lb. Hey if you don't need 175 and it's only a bragging point...... ....ehh? Great video by the way and the math was way more than I expected. I figured the volume be some % shy of 175 tanks scattered throughout your house. That's not only scary, but you wouldn't be able to watch TV. 😁 Excellent video by the way. Last year my 1993 emglo twin tank compressor kicked the bucket. Not just the capacitor but the pressure switch. I still haven't thrown it away yet but maybe fer kicks and giggles I'll cut the ends off the tank to see how nasty it looks inside. I wasn't good about always draining the tank and letting the pressure out. Fantastic video I seriously hope it scared a lot of people. 👍
if you put a lower safety that may help but are you masking a problem that has not happened yet. if you cut the tank send me some pictures we may do another video on it. you can contact me through thecompressorguru.com Bud
I have a dead cheapie compressor from Aldi, pump is bad, but was going to keep the tank as an auxiliary on my next compressor that has a really small tank. After seeing this I don't think I'll bother with that idea
Im still weary of certified air vessels after witnessing a 120 gallon IR propelling through cinder block, chain link and into the parking lot. It was professionally installed and yearly inspected along with the other two compressors. I remember starring at it, it peeled at tha seams : \
Bill I agree I just wonder how old the tank was MOST boiler/tank inspectors will require hydro testing after 40 years. but tanks do fail. that is why we should be as careful as possible.
It seems like the horizontal tanks are more prone to rupture. When I inspected and cleaned my 20 gal horizontal I noticed the metal around the drain bung was warped inward mostly likely from the original welding process thus making it nearly impossible to drain all the water out, even after rocking the tank back and forth. I noticed a similar problem on a vertical tank I inspected where the drain bung protruded about an 1/8 inch or so into the tank, as well as the drain plug. My solution in both cases, although not quite at effective on the horizontal tank, is to take a small cut off wheel and cut / grind the inside (back side) of the bung flush with the inside of the tank and grind down / shorten the drain plug as well. Also thorough cleaned with acid, hydro tested, dried and then coated the inside with Fluid Film (lanolin).
If I only use my tank once a week I only need to drain in weekly correct? You said daily but if I’m not using it and it’s empty so I still do something? Thanks
all vertical compressors are top heavy and tip over easy. the short answer is yes... But if you have it in a compressor room where you can not bump it with a fork truck or even pull to hard on the hose . ok maybe. the other thing is an unsecured compressor may walk around. the vibration room it running may have it moving some around the floor. the 2340 is not seen in many industrial applications so the boiler inspector probably won' catch you. so for 20 minutes 4 anchors and a hammer drill ...Why not?
is 140 psi dangerous on an unknown tank homemade with no cuts nicks or damages? tank volume is around .3 gallon. (1/3 gallon). mounted near spare tire of truck.
I will say this all tanks are dangerous.but its is a small tank that means less sq inches for the PSI and 140 is safer that 175. for all the larger the tank is get it hydrotested. if for nothing else peace of mind
it seems there are more videos on this where the failed tank was a horizontal unit vs a vertical one. no doubt the vertical could explode too but it seems to me the horizontal has more surface area drain and I don't think they are pitched to let water escape are they? like a shower floor would be to let water drain, vs say a vertical tank where usually with the drain at the very bottom, moisture should drain out easier helping to reduce rust build up? also I've seen the mods for after coolers or maybe more expensive units have that already added. Seems like that is a good idea with a water trap before the air enters the tank even ? Still I always drain mine and leave the valve open but i use it infrequently also
good points. with a vertical tank the bottom is domed and an drain point. on the horizontal tanks they have to be slanted slightly towards the end that has the drain. and not to much so that there would be a "heel" below the drain. I think the biggest factor in many of the tanks is maintenance and you are doing good. the other thing is the cheaper compressors do not have "coded" tanks which means that did pass a test 150% of the working pressure. I personally will not sell a non coded tank or would I ever buy 1 for personal use. Good Comment. thanks
Is the tank Leaking? if the old mounting plate is secure , bolt and adapter plate to the old mounting plate. feel free to contact me through thecompressorguru.com
Yes sir. Watching these videos makes me not want use mine. Cambell hausfeld black 20 gal 5 hp. Belt drive. Had oil less one about same tank. Was wanting to double my 5 hp to 40 gal. Now scared to. Think put mine outside this year build little pump house by the building. Plumb it in. With auto drain.
Paul a pump house is a reasonable choice.you may have other issues in the winter if you are in a cold climate. feel free to contact me through thecompressorgugu.com
@@THECompressorGuru in wv thinking just cinder block with styrofoam board insulation. Lid that hinge up or lift off small door way 2’x4’ big enough for compressor.
@@paultrimble9390 Bad Idea. Compressors make heat . they need ventilation . and in the winter they will need some heat. a 5hp pump running constant may generate 20,000 btu in a tight space you WILL cook your machine. Build a bigger box or a small room.
Love the video but have one critique. Agreed, a pressure vessel could be considered an energy storage device, however, the 5hp motor running for 8 minutes, and the comparable work it could achieve isn’t really analogous. Compressing air is wildly inefficient. Most of that energy will be wasted as heat, both absorbed into the air being compressed and dissipated into the atmosphere. That’s all energy wasted before air even hits a tool, which further perpetuates energy losses. The energy put in to pressurize the air doesn’t all end up in the tank. It’s a very disproportional relationship, however, that doesn’t mean it’s an insignificant amount of energy. The danger comes into play considering the form of stirred energy. Compressing air is effectively like compressing a giant spring. If you applied equal energy into a hydraulic system, but it’s far less potentially hazardous just because hydraulic fluid is not compressible.
you are correct about a couple things there is a given inefficacy to compressing air I am sure that most of the energy to compress air is wasted as heat. you are correct that hydraulic is safer in these respects. but there is very limited ways to store hydraulic energy. that is a major difference with stored air. a compressed spring is a different type of stored energy, there is a potential energy and once it has expanded the energy is gone. if you have a tank failure there may possible be shrapnel involved which enters an entirely different realm of what may happen after the air has decompressed. interesting points to consider.
@@THECompressorGuru absolutely true. For all intents and purposes, hydraulics cant be stored to the degree where they’d be able to achieve any work by real world standards given the fluid dynamics necessary in hydraulic systems. I didn’t mean to nit-pick but just felt compelled to mention that pneumatic storage as far as an energy vessel, has a very disproportionate relationship when considering energy in supersedes energy stored by a considerable margin. Regardless, if the tank were to encounter catastrophic failure, such as an explosive decompression, the hazard still remains quite lethal. I just attribute it more to the properties of the form of stored energy rather than the energy required to charge the vessel (compress the fluid). It’s not necessarily the potential energy that makes it lethal, rather the compressed air is essentially a spring; moreover, it’s compressibility property grants it the capability to violently decompress.
I purchased a Black Husky 20-gallon vertical air compressor from the marketplace yesterday. However, upon inspection, seller said the motor fan is broken. I've already ordered a replacement fan. The seller assured me that the compressor is less than 2 years old, despite the broken fan. He mentioned that it has been stored in my garage for about 8 months. He suggested that by replacing the fan and draining the water from the tank, it should operate like new. Is it acceptable for the water to have been sitting in the tank for approximately 9 months, considering the seller's claim that the compressor is less than 2 years old? It's my first time using an air compressor, and after watching this video, I'm a bit worried about the possibility of an explosion. 🙂
I have a question, What do you think about putting fuel tank sealer paint inside the tank. (Not to seal leaks )But for a coating or barrier to prevent moisture contacting bare metal inside the tank. I was looking at product that had a rust inhibitor and moisture barrier. I haven't done it to mine. I was just wondering if anyone out there has or if it's a bad idea and why. Cheers
I was looking to see how much a 20 gallon compressor explosion in equivalent sticks of dynamite and could not find anything. I am curious how it compares.
@@THECompressorGuru Years ago when it was easy to get explosives I got a few charges and caps to blow out some beaver dams. The explosives I got was called Powerfrac and each charge was equivalent to 10 sticks of dynamite. Some of these explosions from the compressors look like the damage would be at least 1/4 that. Makes me curious. Hey back when I got this I picked it up at the local hardware store for 17 bucks a charge and just had to show my drivers license. That was the world before 911.
People need to drain their tanks from the moisture content on the daily, minimum weekly, this moisture creates rust that then clogs up you pressure relief valves, and can also damage the pressure switch, it’s this switch that kicks in and out once the air volume drops or reaches maximum capacity so understandably this switch can wear out, now it’s your relief that should be a fail safe should that occur, guess what happens when it doesn’t ? It becomes a bomb, so drain your tank, check that relief valve daily , it literally takes but a couple minutes.
And to think my cousin and friends laugh at me when i drain my compressor after each use!! 😂 im actually looking to buy a new portable one for my home garage there is a snap on 30 gallon on marketplace i am eyeing
If someone fixes a compressor with jb weld this would be the first area to break thus releasing pressure through the weakest point. Also compressors are supposed to have Saftey valves to blow off before pressure. Also drain tanks Daily, don’t leave air over night.
the safety is only rated for 66% of the tested pressure of the vessel. and if the tank is weak there is not telling if the tank will just start leaking "best case scenario" if it fails suddenly it could be an explosive situation. if someone fixes with JB weld they may end up on some other channel is The Darwin Awards.
@super duper ducky I never heard the 65% thing I understand the standard boiler cert test to be 150% of the WP of the vessel. so a 200 wp tank should be hydro tested to 300PSI. If I understand the way you worded the 65% a 200 psi wp should have a 130psi safety valve?
I do not know Tn at all try google or the old fashion yellow pages. check the link to vintage machinery in the description he shows you how to test it yourself. sorry I am no help.
I bought an old locally produced industrial compressor second hand with a 4kw motor and a 200L tank. The max operating pressure is 16 bars, so it's almost twice the pressure of an ordinary compressor. The tank is made out of 10mm+ thick steel and is certified by the manufacturers. It was made in the mid 80s, and I've just refurbished the pump with new gaskets. I haven't had a hydrotest done to it yet since I have to order a tester for it. After having the test done, is it safe to assume it won't blow up into pieces? That thing holds an insane amount of air and I haven't dared to put any pressure in it yet. Just to be on the safe side, I will probably end up keeping it outside
to properly test it when hydro-testing take it to 150% pressure of tank certification. if it holds put it to work and drain the tank at least weekly. good luck. let me know how it works out.
@@THECompressorGuru I bought a pressure washer today, fabricated an adaptor so I could fit it to the tank. I blocked off some all the outlets except for 2. 1 for the pressure pump and one for the gauge/pressure switch cluster. I got the pressure up to 24 bar (150%) and then the pressure switch started leaking and pressure dropped until it could contain the pressure agsin at 18 bar. I don't have any more blockoff nuts for the pressure switch. Would getting it up to 24 bar briefly be sufficient or should I wait until tomorrow and get another block off nut and try again? If so, could I keep the tank filled overnight or should I drain it and then refill it? It holds 220L of water so it's a bit of a waste.
@@THECompressorGuru Yep that was my mistake to keep it there. I got it to keep the pressure with water for about an hour after plugging the last component. Also got a new relief valve, a new pressure switch... and the fitting was the wrong size. Store told me it would be a 3/8" and since the compressor outlet is a 1/2" I bought an adapter for that. Turns out the store got the size wrong after I read the manual and it said 1/4" inlet. I guess I have to make yet another trip to the hardware store tomorrow then. At least I was able to try it out by simply keeping that outlet plugged and running the compressor with a manual switch. No leaks, no explosions and it ran surprisingly quiet. I guess I've got myself a new compressor!
Is it good to leave the drain valve open when not in use? Such as in non climate controlled shops. Would this help prevent internal sweating during temperature swings or make sweating worse.
it can not hurt. but once the moister condensates out of the compressed air, there should be no more water accumulate in the tank fill of air. interesting thought
What if I have a tank with a small pinhole leaking air.... and I need to finish a job (wood finishing job), can I still use it without trying to repair it? The tank also has a safety valve, and I set the compressor to work between 30psi and 60psi..... of course, the compressor keeps running more often, but not that much...... how risky is that?
I do not want to answer this question. because I am not able to see the future. I will say a pin hole is the very best way a tank can fail! get a new tank very soon!!!
I have a Saylor Beall 120 gallon tank that looks like it was commissioned in 1969 and last inspected by WA labor and industry in 1997 that I bought off a nice gentleman a couple of months ago. It has a working pressure of 200psi. I got it wired up and ready to go then saw your video. There was some rust bits that came out when I was checking out the drain port (it was bone dry). No more than probably a tablespoon or so and no bits bigger than 1/16-1/8". That was probably from transport knocking it loose. I ran it up to 150psi with no problem (not leaks) then just shut it off and drained it. I'm getting the regulator and hose fittings in the next few days. Would you suggest I do a test run (in my garage) up to shut off with no one home or do all the work to get the fittings to do my own hydro test?
I am very weary giving advice on this. If I bought a brand new tank and used it 40 years and drained it regularly it would still be time to have it tested. knowing that it was re certified 25 years ago is comforting but I do not know what number a boiler inspector would put on a tank recertification. I do not know if you should trust it or not that is up to you. it does sound like it was well kept. We DO NOT hydrotest here . so the fitting question I can not answer. I can tell you ALL fittings on the tank are NPT . you may want to check out Vintage machinery video link in the description above. good luck. and you may contact me through thecompressorguru.com.
lesson one, do not mess with a pressure vessels integrity. don't drill, cut, weld, hammer, drop, shock, hit one. if there's any signs of leakage, immediately vent the pressure off and render it permanently unusable.
I agree with all but the last. a leaking tank can be repaired by a certified welder then hydrotested. before putting air pressure back in it . some larger tanks a may be worth the expense to repair and test. BUT DO NOT JB WELD LOL
@@THECompressorGuru No it can't. It's technically possible.... but it's prohibitive to do so legally and correctly on these cheap small mass produced vessels. You couldn't even afford to obtain the proper documentation to start with. Being a code certified welder is only part of it. There's inspection, testing, and documentation that would need to be performed also to be legal. Not to mention anything that corrodes through is going to be shot and condemned. You cannot weld with any integrity on corroded metal for starters. You can't access the inside to clean it or prep it. Even larger compressed air accumulator tanks in industry, typically do not even come with man ways. They're basically unrepairable. They are also pretty cheap. You can get a 2000 gallon tank for under $10,000. You couldn't afford to even repair that vs just buying a new one.
@@THECompressorGuru well... that's interesting. Your last words in the video were to NOT weld a pinhole. I recently picked up a 60gal 5hp compressor and realized it has a tiny pinhole. Certainly there must be thin spots inside. I was considering hydrotesting after having it repairing but am getting mixed messages.
Thank you! How concerned should I be with my little 15lbs 150psi ufo? Just found my water valve. Might have been a leg saver. I'm embarrassed of my ignorance. Thanks again.
that scares me too. I just spoke to an IR tech last week about this he has a friend that went on disability from a tank exploding by his legs . both legs screwed up for life. tank was 40 years old.
@@THECompressorGuru dude i work on buses.. we have the compressor in 1 of the bays and I’m forced to work 4 feet away from it 9 hours a day with it constantly running.. it’s 165psi 150 gallons… built in 1941 and i drain about a liter of water out of it almost daily.. the boss refuses to replace it or even have it recertified.. i have nightmares about that thing going off
@@mikecorleone6797 show him this video. and express your concern again. if you want have your boss contact me through thecompressorguru.com are you in the US?
@@mikecorleone6797 I am a real small government kind of guy, but you do have some protection in the form of safety inspectors , osha, and boiler inspectors and on the private side insurance inspectors. any of which would raise serious concern over this situation with your boss. you may be able to make an anonymous call and get some peace of mind.
You are absolutely correct. your safety valve should NEVER exceed the certified tank pressure . this does not mean you do not drain the tank daily. and the Maintenance is pulling the safety ring when you service the machine to make sure it is still operable. BTW this is 1 of the checklist items we do on the yearly or quarterly maintenance
@@THECompressorGuru Some pull the safety release valve at zero pressure and presume all is well because the pin moved however when done that way you really do not know if the valve has become plugged, etc. Pull the relief valve while the compressor is running and verify that it at least bleeds off pressure to below the compressors kick in pressure before re-seating itself. Be wary too of the new tanks designed with more convenient drain valves mounted on the front of the tank about 1 inch above the bottom of the vessel. Those drains even if you automate them are pretty pointless unless you tip the tank on its side every time you drain it. Too many design decisions it appears are being made for marketing purposes with little thought about safety. Best!
@@neilfromclearwaterfl81 1 of the safety checks we do during a PM is pull the pins on all safety valves while under pressure for the very reason you stated. I have not seen 1 of the new tanks where the drain is not on the bottom of the tank. can you send me a picture through thecompressorguru.com? or give me a brand name and model here? those tanks can not be an coded tank.
@@THECompressorGuru I first started seeing these on portable 1 to 2 gallon hotdog and pancake job site compressors from the store brands but now am seeing them from the more major brands such as Emglo, Makita, Griprite, EstWing, etc not just the King Feng Foo type (generic import/foreign trade brands) plus now on compressors with 10 to 30+ gallon tanks. Most recently was on a McGraw/Harbor Freight 29 gallon upright compressor. This is showing up on all tank styles pancake, hotdog, horizontal and vertical. I've even seen them on some truck mount compressors while driving about. It makes me cringe especially when they're on the sizes that some are inclined to bolt down and hard plumb in a small shop making it so you can't easily tip them over for draining. When I see the verbiage highlighting an easy to access drain location as a selling point I become concerned. Some have modified the bell end to have a channel stamped into it running down to the side drain which is better however you have to hope the now non-symetrical bell was well enough engineered to compensate for the uneven stresses that would introduce. When marketers and bean counters start designing product going against sound engineering principles its not a very good thing. Look at what this has done to the commercial aircraft industry just with the current version of the 737 experiencing crashes and near fatal events from slapping new style of engines on that change the center of moment and then relying on automated safety systems to make up for the lack of good engineering. Perhaps in the sub $1000 compressor market they're hoping the majority will experience pump or motor failure and be disposed of before the tanks fail from not being able to easily drain them properly. Thankfully some shops I've seen these in are at least putting some type of safety enclosure around them to contain things even if its just 1 1/4" pipe and heavy chain link hurricane fence.
And yet tanks are never made of a rust proof material. Stainless steel might be a candidate for tank material as can be other more expensive alloys. I have always burped air compressors. Besides being a rust causing hazard water takes up space air should be occupying.
Don't let this video scare you. This happens to cheap thin tanks. Or super super old ones with tons of rust. I collect and repair compressors. And I also repair my own tanks. Yes I weld on them and yes I'll add a new port if I need one or add legs or fix the legs. But I hydro test all of my tanks after the work I do. You can work on air tanks. You just need to hydro test them and keep you're water drained out of them at all times
not trying to scare folk . I am trying to get people to take proper care and caution with what has the potential to be a bomb. the vessel is literately storing energy like a battery. or the gas tank on your car. but this is a storage device that requires some more maintenance ( drain daily). it shows that you care for the safety for yourself and who ever gets the machines you work on and that is why you do hydro test.
Also when got 5 hp one used looks great 100$ cost more gas ,time. Any way looks to have honey oil in compressor when turn on whip it up some. No site glass full on dip stick. Clean should change it or is it good type compressor oil like honey. I know have see it just wondering if make such thing heard of compressor oil but it expensive. So be motor oil that go in it. Kinda looks like lucus oil. Idk. Thanks
never use detergent motor oil in a splash lube compressor. not going to type out why... just do NOT. as for other oils yes compressor oil cost more . but there are anti rust and foam additives in it that make it the right oil for compressor pumps. if you have no other options NON detergent motor oil can be used. Compressor oil should not get dirty looking in normal operations. its different from engine oil in the respect engine oil gets dirty because of the soot that blows past the rings because of combustion. you still need to change the oil because the oil molecules will break down after heat and will not lubricate properly. you may contact me through thecompressorguru.com if there is anything else I can help you with.
why don't your compressors have safety blow off valves so if the pressure switch doesn't stop the compressor at desired pressure then the safety valve releases at a pre determined pressure (usually 175 psu)
So what you ask on its face makes sense. but on a cold morning the pressure switch may not shut off till 185 or 190. the springs in the switch are very temperature sensitive . you may also have 2-3 or more machines lined up and set in series with the primary set at 180 the next set at 170 and so on. just because they are factory set at 175 most brand 2 stages are perfectly capable of pumping higher and some customers need that little extra. the important thing is to not exceed the tank max working pressure with a higher set popoff/safety. see this link about cold weather pressure problems. ruclips.net/video/IzT6fykKDwQ/видео.html
@@THECompressorGuru in Australia most pressure switches are preset to under 150 psi and safety valves 180 psi and most that I've seen how an electric auto drain attached to drain plug draining water every 40 minutes for 3 seconds
@@michaeledwards8058 interesting about the preset on the machines there. the elec drains I sell are fully adjustable, with adjustments for length of how long the drain is open and time between when drain opens.
Hi can I use a rattle gun on a small compressor i have not tried this yet I notice some rattle guns are small and I guess would require high pressure to make them work some are large and may only need low pressure to operate .my neighbour uses a nail gun that has a jam tin tank and drives one inch nails very good the jam tin tank is very solid steel and I don't think will ever explode on a quarter horse motor
now Im paranoid. Ive left it go months without draining it. and Ive had it bolted to the concrete floor with a tapcon and no pad. Now Im worried. I have a boroscope maybe I can look in there through the drain hole. Rated at 135 I go no higher than 100. Sanborn 1993.
@@THECompressorGuru It hast that tag on it that you showed us. It says on that tag Certified by SMC. Then there is the square logo with the letters UM. It says MAWP 135psi at 650 deg F. Also has the letter W under the UM logo. I bought it new in 1993. It came with wheels. Should I weld ears on the frame (not the tank) and bolt it to the concrete floor with 4 tapcons? I will inspect it with the boroscope and I dont know where to have it cleaned with that wand and hydrotested again I dont know of a place that does that. Thanks very much for the help by the way.
@@ScreamingEagleFTW Yes you can weld on legs and mounting area. DO NOT weld on tank. how big is the tank? the inspection holes are only on big tanks. won't be back at computer till monday. have a great weekend.
It’s probably not much money they could make these tanks last a lot longer and get rid of all the safety problems you know you don’t see propane tanks blowing up all over the place with all the videos and pictures of injuries you know maybe we should start forcing them to plasticize the inside of these tanks or coat them with something and can you soak the tank and oil from when it’s brand new to keep it from rusting I just wondered
the plastic idea i think is a good one. the oil... I think it would eventually drain off and water would eventually cause the same problem. you should contact a tank company and share that with them you might be the first.
I’m buying a used compressor tomorrow, it’s a 1991 “America Air” and it doesn’t have a gauge on it, but it says it was professionally serviced bi-yearly What do you think? Just an inspection and add a gauge?
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Man. Whole new perspective on compressor tanks! 100% this will keep me from buying a used tank.
Excellent video. I am always amazed at how many guys refuse to believe and potential danger with air storage tanks. Arguments come up on the online forums regularly. Too many take pressure tanks for granted when they can be bombs. I will refer to this video in hopes to convince the hard heads. PS all my air tanks have 2 safety valves. Nothing runs above 120psi.
Edit: Also a tank story. Retired guy working on old truck in his barn behind the house. He goes in the house for lunch, and then there's a big BOOM. Goes out into the barn, the compressor has blown up, the tank went thru the back barn wall and out into the woods several hundred feet, missed many trees but finally hit one. 8ft x 8ft hole in the barn wall. It took him months before he got back working in the barn and got things repaired.
Old air tanks scare the $hit out of me.
I know this video is 1 year old.
But it's never too late to say.. Thank you sir for sharing this knowledge. You have saved hundreds of lives. and counting.
Including mine.
Wish I had seen this earlier.
thank you. hearing that makes my day.
Holy Ship!!
I clicked on this video thinking it was about Tanks, like the M1 Abrams, knowing I will never use the information but wanted to know it anyways.
I will still never use this information, but I still watched the whole thing and I'm glad I know that information now.
I have had a few videos over the year that use the same words confused with other interest. It happens but I am glad you liked the video. thanks.
I love the way you use example to show how much energy can be stored in these tanks. Many take it for granted.
Thank you! I haven't received a ton of training on tanks at my work since we take care of so many different types of equipment and I wanted to get more familiar so I can make sure everyone is safe. So glad I came across your video! Thank you sir!
I am glad to help.
Thank you soo much for this video. I just heard a leak in my 1940's 80 gallon tank, coming from the bottom. I was considering welding and got here first. Drained it completely, and now looking for a new tank.
If you want me price a new tank for you contact me through thecompressorguru.com
I am really gad you didn't try to weld the tank.
"considering welding it" - you dodged a mighty big bullet.
I was once at a friends place and he brought out an older Craftsman compressor to use. He plugged it and and started it up As it was building pressure, I noticed the tank was 'sizzling' like somebody was frying bacon. I looked at the tank, and immediately yanked the cord out of the outlet to turn it off, and told the owner that the tank was a bomb that could go off at any moment, and he should not use it, and replace the tank at once.
I bought a used Craftsman upright compressor a couple of years ago. I drained a fair amount of water out of it. I was religious draining it after each use . Brown stuff (rust) plugging the drain. Finally I tip it on the side & used a oil can put X- amount of oil in the drain valve. I cycled the compressor a few times until the rusty scale stop coming out. NOW it freely drains water with no issues. A Note too others Please follow the owners manual! USAF 1981-85
I have always replaced the safety valve or blow-off valves in my compressor tanks with ones slightly below the maximum working pressure I use and most often well below the MFGs suggested one. Besides normal maintenance, I've always figured this gives me just a little more margin of safety.
Thanks for the info I am reding my compressor and did a hydro test 150 percent of the working pressure and it held so I think I should be good.
I tell my ex boss all the time about draining the compressor...I know for a fact since departing from his business that compressor is not being maintained... great presentation thank you sir
In the AF we drained ours at beginning of shift every morning. Would let it run with drain valve a couple minutes. If you did not moisture would come out when using air gun.
I don't know what that "pounds of stored energy" means, but we have units that work perfectly well for force and energy. I'll redo the calculations and the result might be surprising. The tank has 175 PSI in it. That converts to ~1.2 Megapascal in pressure. The volume of the tank is listed as 80 gallons, which is ~302 liters. We need to know the temperature for our energy calculation, so I'll use 293k, which is about 67 Fahrenheit. That works out to about 1007 kilojoules. A stick of dynamite produces about 2.1 megajoules when detonated. So, that air tank has the destructive potential of about a stick of dynamite in it! Treat it with care.
thank you for the help explaining.
1007 kilojoules is not about the same a 1000 megajoules, it is 1/1000 as much.
@@secondwindmusicproductions Oof, I didn't notice I copied the wrong excel cell into my final answer. A stick of dynamite is about 2.1 megajoules. The 1000 megajoule cell was one of my conversion factors, not the final result. The air compressor tank has about as much energy as 1/2 a stick of tnt.
@@WarrenGarabrandt TNT is not Dynamite.
I enjoyed your video .Back in the 1950s when I was a small kid a compressor in a small gas station in a nearby town exploded. The blast almost leveled the building. I don't remember if anyone was hurt or killed.
Thanks for caring .
Such an important video. Even the best compressor will fail if it's not properly maintained, and from what I have seen on YT these "exploding compressors" aren't being maintained!
Super excellent video. Safety first. Thank you.
Excellent video! People are so unaware of the dangers of pressure.
Excellent information. You are a good man and very wise.
Don't start a rumor about me being wise.
Thank you for loading up sutch a video and that you really things about others. this video saves lives for real respect to you wish you all good
My father told me once , if you take any pressure vessel. Tire , air tank , even a propane cylinder think about the PSI. That pressure is at every square inch inside. He would say. How many postage stamps could stick on the inside of that vessel ? Kind of spooky when you look at it that way
Excellent information Bud! Thank you!
I have my compressor drain valve constantly slowly hissing. Has been for decades, never has water in it.
Mr. Guru,
Thanks for making this video. I am always in advocate for being safe. I would like to ask a question, what is the importance of draining the tank every day? I understand water and metal don’t get along with each other, but as soon as you turn these things on condensation starts to build up and pools at the bottom. So even if you drain it every day you’re not going to get 100% of the water out and it’s always gonna be damp inside which is going to promote rust.
Thanks!
God bless!!
Blue
I think the best reply might be the couple drops that accumulate in the bottom of the tank does not INSTANTLY cause rust. An auto tank drain (which we sell ) eliminates having to remember to drain the tank REGULARLY.
Not hollering at you but good practices will make thing last longer. thanks Blue
Thank you Guru for this important Safety reminder. I bought a broken oilless compressor & broken pressure washer from a young construction worker friend. As he moved the compressor to load it on my truck, I heard it sloshing! I got it home & it was half full of water! No drain valve, just a factory painted plug, frozen in place! I like to think I saved his life. I remind him to this day to daily drain their air tanks. I will cut open this tank to serve as an example or hydrotest it to failure with pictures (either way). Paul.
Ironically, on the other hand, having a large amount of water in the tank might mitigate an explosion and save a life, since failures usually happen on the tank bottoms and making the air try to push out the incomepressible water would take longer for all the energy to get released.
JB Weld... wow. I wouldn't even repair one myself the CORRECT way.
For me (not a compressor repairman) , if a tank has been compromised, its time for a new tank.
After watching this I think I will adjust my tank pressure from 175 to 125
Me too
So i got a delta tank 80 gallon i pullled plug out of bottom, To get the loose rust out i used evapo rust mixed some getting fluids. such as PB blaster seafoam into it can I rinsed it out again with baking soda water the tanks probably about 22 years old.I did buy the proper pressure release valve new sat in barn outta use for probably 15 years. Was it bad that i had added vinger into a guy told i probably shouldnt disturbed the rust with that stuff so then i added baking soda solution to it rinsed it again
Loose rust is not the concern. I think you are fine. but if concerned about tank stability , hydro test it. simply and quick not exactly but you will know if you can trust it.
@@THECompressorGuru yep I plan to hydro test great videos I have learned alot from your channel
i have a old craftsman air compressor from 1980 i think it had a leak in the bottom of tank i guess it seal it self with some rust from inside the tank i can feel rust bits comeing out of the drain plug I'm getting rid of it I'm not even messing with it 😁
How big were the rust bits?
Absolutely everyone with any size compressor should watch this. I've seen countless videos on RUclips of peoples janky set-ups based on other peoples janky set-up that should get 1000 thumbs down but instead get 1000 thumbs up because no one actually knows WTF they are doing. It's all test piloting unproven ideas.
My added advice in addition to internal inspection and hydro testing is #1 make sure you have proper safety valves installed that are less than the max pressure rating of your tank and make sure they are in any location where the pump could over-pump a linked line or an auxiliary tank or both.
#2 Understand that pressure ratings on tanks and all fittings, lines, etc are greatly reduced as heat is increased. This is why using PVC lines, while generally ok for home shops and smaller compressors, should never be located anywhere near the tank where air is still hot. IIRC, a 1" PVC line is typically rated at 500 psi but if the air is 200 degrees the rating drops to just 100 psi. Most home garage people operate their tanks at 100-130 psi.. so guess what could happen... BANG! PS - Keith Rucker of Vintage Machinery is a god among men.
Amen old owl!
@@oldowl4290 NO pvc NEVER for air
@@funone8716 I agree. Some people do it but I never would.
Great Information Bud👍🏻
Tried to see if mine is certified but only found that commercial use ones need certification. I bought a used Kobalt 26 gallon and is 16 years old. There is no rust on the external of tank. Now you have me wondering if I should use it. But I could turn it off at half way point to be on the safe side or should I even use it.
Keep the tank drained and use the compressor for a few more years. and then get is hydro tested.
@@THECompressorGuru how much do they charge and who does it?
@@mgomez5606 If you have a pressure washer you can do it yourself. there is a link in the description to show you how.
April 29, 2022 @12:25p pdt Salem Oregon
We love your family and can’t go a day without looking forward to your next video.
I put this up yesterday and now I can’t find it so I will give it another go -
I included a link which I now see is a no no so I will not include it this time.
The compressor tanks, especially the type that sits level and horizontal (like your red one) are time bombs waiting for a place to explode which will result in several of you going to the Emergency Room.
(I don’t like the E.R.)
Mine is vertical so I don’t worry about it as much.
I saw your gauge reported well over 100psi in a horizontal tank. (older horizontal tank)
You guys don’t need to lose arms and legs because we here in Oregon love your channel so much and your family is loved and popular more each day here in all fifty states.
The RUclips title is -
“Tank Safety, This video may SAVE YOUR LIFE!”
and the RUclips channel title is -
“THE Compressor Guru”
Please be safe - //John in Oregon
Serious question - I have looked up many videos of tanks exploding. And all the failures I have seen have happened to sideways sitting tanks. Tanks that have the seam welded along the bottom. Do you think there is anything to that? I have not seen one of these failures on an upright tank. Not saying it doesn't happen. It just appears to happen more to sideways tanks.
Very Good Question. Just a guess
1 reason is most tank failures are on cheaper non coded tanks. they are usually horizontal.
2 the vertical tanks have a dished bottom and ALL water is in the dish. and drained more easily . in addition there are no welds on the tank till you get to the straight side of the tank, also I have to wonder when the bottoms are formed do they start with thicker steel because they are going to be stretched??
Really good question.
@@THECompressorGuru Thanks for the reply. I appreciate it. I agree with everything you said. And I wonder about the thicker steel as well. I have searched again and cannot find an upright failure online. I will keep searching. I like to see what the rip looks like if I can find one.
@@THECompressorGuru I wanted to come back and add to this. I just got an upright replacement for my old rig. I am going to take a camera to the insides and document it as it ages. I will compile the information.
@@PopCultureDefector Let me knw how that goes. in the future it may make a great video.
Thank you for the info. Really important thing to know
Do they have expiration dates like propane tanks
No. but a rule of thumb for most insurance inspectors is to have them Hydro tested when 40 years old. we do have government boiler inspectors here I know they will show up and give a certificate and a metal tag to the bigger industrial customers. I have had some issues with an inspector that did not understand why a different safety valve on a tube before a check valve. I think that logic explanation might make a good episode.
I have a 35 year old Sears compressor. I drained the tank the other day and got about a cup of very rusty water out of it. Time to junk it?
several things to consider. what size is the tank? and is it worth doing a hydro test? rust colored water is normal but the age give me pause to do some more checking.
It's a 12 gallon. I kind want to get a smaller one since my only use these days is filling tires and maybe blowing dirt off/out of something. After watching your video and others, I want to find one with an ASME tank but that seem unavailable in smaller compressors. @@THECompressorGuru
@@Hybridog I do not know weather i would bother with a tank that small. when I do have them in to work on ( my labor rate usually discourages that) I turn them on and have them outside the shop and wait til i hear them shut off before I go near them that is how confident I am in these small uncoded tanks. I think t may be time to shop for a new small comressor.
basically they are like ticking time bombs if not taking care of the right way
yes but there is no timer. scaaaaarrrrrry.
the Psi Relay Contact points got stuck and allowed for a continues running or someone adjusted them to pump even higher psi then it was designed for .. I'd say it was stuck Contact points that did continuing run because that was allot more then 130 - 150 psi that did something like that more like 300+psi that did do that. these contact relay points are some what or were once like what they have on Water Well Pumps to turn on and off the pump from 20psi to 60 psi of water or water tank psi,.
your tank safety should have relived the pressure when it got to the valve setting which should match the Max working pressure of the tank! shut it down and a change the switch B find the cert tag on the tank C put the proper safety valve on. I sell the switch and valve you may contact me through thecompressorguru.com
shut it down SHUT IT DOWN!!
OSHA tests the wall thickness of my tank every 3 years using ultra sound. Even that doesn’t seem too thorough. And the guys they send out are not the sharpest.
that is really interesting. what state?
@@THECompressorGuru California of course. And they charge me. It’s in my business so you have to have the permit, which requires inspection.
5 Hp for 5 min is 1.8 million joules.
The energy of a 50 cal is 18000 joules.
That's one hundred 50 cals worth of energy.
Impressive...
I use a large 4500psi compressor for my pcp Airguns and I always wonder if that compressor ever gernades or my 4500psi 98CF carbon fiber air tank ever exploded what kind of damage would that do, probably be catastrophic
in addition to precautions in this video, maybe loop a chain under the pump mounting plate and around a substantial beam?
Hydro testing is a relatively easy task now if you have any pressure washer. You just have to get the right fittings. I'm working on it now. I'll video the test. My 50 year old compressor shows no signs of degradation but I'll be testing it as the Guru suggests you can bet. First I am testing the one I just welded uo with ss mig. I know but what the heck, right? Call me curious. 😎🤣
Are there a catalog of images for examples of acceptable vs excessive rust?
I have a 21 year old tank that I just bought, there was, to me, what seemed like a fair amout of rust flakes in the bottom. Last guy said he drained it daily. I cleaned the chips all out, lightly hammered it all around the bottom and it appeared to ring solid and bright. I also Hydrotested it according to the video you mentioned to 250psi (certified WP 150) and it held pressure. No signs of any welding or attempted repairs. I suppose that means its okay for now?
This is my first larger compressor, 60gal whereas my last one was 20, so the potential energy storage has me a little uneasy. I also used some evaporust and it looks a lot better. Still some rust, but the bottom doesn't look that smooth compared to the top. Hard to tell honestly through a 2" bung.
by hydro testing you have done all you can for now.
4:15 sounds like you had some stored energy of your own.😂😂😂
i never noticed the pause lol
My co worker had his vertical tank blow up thru the roof like a rocket and kick out the concrete block wall when it went off. Too bad I didn't get a picture for you on that. It must have sounded like a bomb went off I am sure of that! Good thing no one was even near it when it failed it caused a lot of collateral damage in a 10 foot radius.
I am very glad no one was hurt. some people think this video is hype. it is a pressurized vessel, stored energy. have a great day.
@@THECompressorGuru I have zero doubt about the lethality of a tank exploding after having witnessed the aftermath of what it had done to his garage.
I am wondering if a DYI hydro test really proves out the tank? I guess I have this odd feeling that it could hold fine on a test at150%, but does that really mean it won't bust over the next 200 air pressure cycles?
Yes someone has an old compressor that set up for 175 lb why not install a new safety valve and lower the pressure to 150 or 125 lb.
Hey if you don't need 175 and it's only a bragging point......
....ehh?
Great video by the way and the math was way more than I expected.
I figured the volume be some % shy of 175 tanks scattered throughout your house. That's not only scary, but you wouldn't be able to watch TV. 😁
Excellent video by the way.
Last year my 1993 emglo twin tank compressor kicked the bucket. Not just the capacitor but the pressure switch.
I still haven't thrown it away yet but maybe fer kicks and giggles I'll cut the ends off the tank to see how nasty it looks inside. I wasn't good about always draining the tank and letting the pressure out.
Fantastic video I seriously hope it scared a lot of people. 👍
if you put a lower safety that may help but are you masking a problem that has not happened yet. if you cut the tank send me some pictures we may do another video on it.
you can contact me through thecompressorguru.com
Bud
@@THECompressorGuru thanks, I subscribed so I wouldn't forget.
I have a dead cheapie compressor from Aldi, pump is bad, but was going to keep the tank as an auxiliary on my next compressor that has a really small tank. After seeing this I don't think I'll bother with that idea
Im still weary of certified air vessels after witnessing a 120 gallon IR propelling through cinder block, chain link and into the parking lot. It was professionally installed and yearly inspected along with the other two compressors. I remember starring at it, it peeled at tha seams : \
Bill I agree I just wonder how old the tank was MOST boiler/tank inspectors will require hydro testing after 40 years. but tanks do fail. that is why we should be as careful as possible.
It seems like the horizontal tanks are more prone to rupture. When I inspected and cleaned my 20 gal horizontal I noticed the metal around the drain bung was warped inward mostly likely from the original welding process thus making it nearly impossible to drain all the water out, even after rocking the tank back and forth.
I noticed a similar problem on a vertical tank I inspected where the drain bung protruded about an 1/8 inch or so into the tank, as well as the drain plug. My solution in both cases, although not quite at effective on the horizontal tank, is to take a small cut off wheel and cut / grind the inside (back side) of the bung flush with the inside of the tank and grind down / shorten the drain plug as well. Also thorough cleaned with acid, hydro tested, dried and then coated the inside with Fluid Film (lanolin).
I am very glad you hydro tested after the modification.
I work in a foundry. Our pressure tank has holes and they fixed with jb weld... im scard. Tank goes to 100psi
that is scary .
Volume of a cylinder = 2*pi*radius^2*height
The problem was figuring the extra volume of the curved ends.thanks for the input.
If I only use my tank once a week I only need to drain in weekly correct? You said daily but if I’m not using it and it’s empty so I still do something? Thanks
the drain it every day is a comment for the guys that use their machines every day. use it drain it don't worry about it. thanks for the question.
Bud
I have a IR 80 gal 5 hp. 2340 compressor but I have never mounted it to the floor is it really necessary?
all vertical compressors are top heavy and tip over easy. the short answer is yes... But if you have it in a compressor room where you can not bump it with a fork truck or even pull to hard on the hose . ok maybe. the other thing is an unsecured compressor may walk around. the vibration room it running may have it moving some around the floor. the 2340 is not seen in many industrial applications so the boiler inspector probably won' catch you.
so for 20 minutes 4 anchors and a hammer drill ...Why not?
Do you know a good source for a 80 gallon vertical tank? I have a IR that has a pin hole in the bottom.
Thanks
Yes contact me through thecompressorguru.com tanks are not cheap but we do have a good source.
Thanks for the info
is 140 psi dangerous on an unknown tank homemade with no cuts nicks or damages? tank volume is around .3 gallon. (1/3 gallon). mounted near spare tire of truck.
I will say this all tanks are dangerous.but its is a small tank that means less sq inches for the PSI and 140 is safer that 175. for all the larger the tank is get it hydrotested. if for nothing else peace of mind
@@THECompressorGuru Thank you.
it seems there are more videos on this where the failed tank was a horizontal unit vs a vertical one. no doubt the vertical could explode too but it seems to me the horizontal has more surface area drain and I don't think they are pitched to let water escape are they? like a shower floor would be to let water drain, vs say a vertical tank where usually with the drain at the very bottom, moisture should drain out easier helping to reduce rust build up? also I've seen the mods for after coolers or maybe more expensive units have that already added. Seems like that is a good idea with a water trap before the air enters the tank even ? Still I always drain mine and leave the valve open but i use it infrequently also
good points.
with a vertical tank the bottom is domed and an drain point.
on the horizontal tanks they have to be slanted slightly towards the end that has the drain. and not to much so that there would be a "heel" below the drain.
I think the biggest factor in many of the tanks is maintenance and you are doing good.
the other thing is the cheaper compressors do not have "coded" tanks which means that did pass a test 150% of the working pressure.
I personally will not sell a non coded tank or would I ever buy 1 for personal use. Good Comment. thanks
I just bought a 1950's Westinghouse 7.5 hp from a farmer. No relief valves on the tank and no pressure guage. Scary.
I am going to give it the Keith Rucker treatment this week. I've got two tanks to test before the snow flies.
I'm scared to fix my air tank. I gotta replace valve plate
Is the tank Leaking? if the old mounting plate is secure , bolt and adapter plate to the old mounting plate. feel free to contact me through thecompressorguru.com
I think I’ll move my torch cylinders to the other side of the garage… 😬
Yes sir. Watching these videos makes me not want use mine. Cambell hausfeld black 20 gal 5 hp. Belt drive. Had oil less one about same tank. Was wanting to double my 5 hp to 40 gal. Now scared to. Think put mine outside this year build little pump house by the building. Plumb it in. With auto drain.
Paul a pump house is a reasonable choice.you may have other issues in the winter if you are in a cold climate. feel free to contact me through thecompressorgugu.com
@@THECompressorGuru in wv thinking just cinder block with styrofoam board insulation. Lid that hinge up or lift off small door way 2’x4’ big enough for compressor.
@@paultrimble9390 Bad Idea. Compressors make heat . they need ventilation . and in the winter they will need some heat. a 5hp pump running constant may generate 20,000 btu in a tight space you WILL cook your machine. Build a bigger box or a small room.
Love the video but have one critique. Agreed, a pressure vessel could be considered an energy storage device, however, the 5hp motor running for 8 minutes, and the comparable work it could achieve isn’t really analogous. Compressing air is wildly inefficient. Most of that energy will be wasted as heat, both absorbed into the air being compressed and dissipated into the atmosphere. That’s all energy wasted before air even hits a tool, which further perpetuates energy losses. The energy put in to pressurize the air doesn’t all end up in the tank. It’s a very disproportional relationship, however, that doesn’t mean it’s an insignificant amount of energy. The danger comes into play considering the form of stirred energy. Compressing air is effectively like compressing a giant spring. If you applied equal energy into a hydraulic system, but it’s far less potentially hazardous just because hydraulic fluid is not compressible.
you are correct about a couple things there is a given inefficacy to compressing air I am sure that most of the energy to compress air is wasted as heat.
you are correct that hydraulic is safer in these respects. but there is very limited ways to store hydraulic energy. that is a major difference with stored air.
a compressed spring is a different type of stored energy, there is a potential energy and once it has expanded the energy is gone.
if you have a tank failure there may possible be shrapnel involved which enters an entirely different realm of what may happen after the air has decompressed. interesting points to consider.
@@THECompressorGuru absolutely true. For all intents and purposes, hydraulics cant be stored to the degree where they’d be able to achieve any work by real world standards given the fluid dynamics necessary in hydraulic systems. I didn’t mean to nit-pick but just felt compelled to mention that pneumatic storage as far as an energy vessel, has a very disproportionate relationship when considering energy in supersedes energy stored by a considerable margin. Regardless, if the tank were to encounter catastrophic failure, such as an explosive decompression, the hazard still remains quite lethal. I just attribute it more to the properties of the form of stored energy rather than the energy required to charge the vessel (compress the fluid). It’s not necessarily the potential energy that makes it lethal, rather the compressed air is essentially a spring; moreover, it’s compressibility property grants it the capability to violently decompress.
@@kfs777 Agree
The thumbnail looks like the mouth of a deadly alien worm from a sci-fi movie. And deadly it is.
I purchased a Black Husky 20-gallon vertical air compressor from the marketplace yesterday. However, upon inspection, seller said the motor fan is broken. I've already ordered a replacement fan. The seller assured me that the compressor is less than 2 years old, despite the broken fan. He mentioned that it has been stored in my garage for about 8 months. He suggested that by replacing the fan and draining the water from the tank, it should operate like new. Is it acceptable for the water to have been sitting in the tank for approximately 9 months, considering the seller's claim that the compressor is less than 2 years old? It's my first time using an air compressor, and after watching this video, I'm a bit worried about the possibility of an explosion. 🙂
I am sorry to hear this. I would have a great concern about the safety of that tank. if you have the ability to hydro test it, PLEASE do.
Thank you!!!
I have a question, What do you think about putting fuel tank sealer paint inside the tank.
(Not to seal leaks )But for a coating or barrier to prevent moisture contacting bare metal inside the tank. I was looking at product that had a rust inhibitor and moisture barrier.
I haven't done it to mine. I was just wondering if anyone out there has or if it's a bad idea and why. Cheers
this has come up before. I think at least use something like extendo from permetex and get the bottom coated.
@@THECompressorGuru thank you I'll look into it. Do you think it's a bad idea?
Not a bad idea. You may never know.if it helped, if the tank never rust out... it probably helps and will not hurt.
@@the-trolling-mechanic no its a good idea. it can't hurt it can only help. I answed from my phone under bud stiner
this needs more views
I agree! feel free to share.
They rust best from within
I was looking to see how much a 20 gallon compressor explosion in equivalent sticks of dynamite and could not find anything. I am curious how it compares.
great question. I have no idea. perhaps someone with their blasting licenses cold comment.
@@THECompressorGuru Years ago when it was easy to get explosives I got a few charges and caps to blow out some beaver dams. The explosives I got was called Powerfrac and each charge was equivalent to 10 sticks of dynamite. Some of these explosions from the compressors look like the damage would be at least 1/4 that. Makes me curious. Hey back when I got this I picked it up at the local hardware store for 17 bucks a charge and just had to show my drivers license. That was the world before 911.
People need to drain their tanks from the moisture content on the daily, minimum weekly, this moisture creates rust that then clogs up you pressure relief valves, and can also damage the pressure switch, it’s this switch that kicks in and out once the air volume drops or reaches maximum capacity so understandably this switch can wear out, now it’s your relief that should be a fail safe should that occur, guess what happens when it doesn’t ? It becomes a bomb, so drain your tank, check that relief valve daily , it literally takes but a couple minutes.
you just described the perfect storm!
And to think my cousin and friends laugh at me when i drain my compressor after each use!! 😂 im actually looking to buy a new portable one for my home garage there is a snap on 30 gallon on marketplace i am eyeing
If someone fixes a compressor with jb weld this would be the first area to break thus releasing pressure through the weakest point. Also compressors are supposed to have Saftey valves to blow off before pressure. Also drain tanks Daily, don’t leave air over night.
the safety is only rated for 66% of the tested pressure of the vessel. and if the tank is weak there is not telling if the tank will just start leaking "best case scenario" if it fails suddenly it could be an explosive situation. if someone fixes with JB weld they may end up on some other channel is The Darwin Awards.
@super duper ducky I never heard the 65% thing I understand the standard boiler cert test to be 150% of the WP of the vessel. so a 200 wp tank should be hydro tested to 300PSI. If I understand the way you worded the 65% a 200 psi wp should have a 130psi safety valve?
Someone fixes an air compressor with JB Wells shouldn't have an air compressor. Period
i always keep the drain plug loose so its constantly drains.
Where could I get my air compressor tank hydrotested in Newbern Tennessee, or somewhere close in Tennessee?
I do not know Tn at all try google or the old fashion yellow pages. check the link to vintage machinery in the description he shows you how to test it yourself. sorry I am no help.
I bought an old locally produced industrial compressor second hand with a 4kw motor and a 200L tank. The max operating pressure is 16 bars, so it's almost twice the pressure of an ordinary compressor. The tank is made out of 10mm+ thick steel and is certified by the manufacturers. It was made in the mid 80s, and I've just refurbished the pump with new gaskets. I haven't had a hydrotest done to it yet since I have to order a tester for it. After having the test done, is it safe to assume it won't blow up into pieces? That thing holds an insane amount of air and I haven't dared to put any pressure in it yet. Just to be on the safe side, I will probably end up keeping it outside
to properly test it when hydro-testing take it to 150% pressure of tank certification. if it holds put it to work and drain the tank at least weekly. good luck. let me know how it works out.
@@THECompressorGuru I bought a pressure washer today, fabricated an adaptor so I could fit it to the tank. I blocked off some all the outlets except for 2. 1 for the pressure pump and one for the gauge/pressure switch cluster. I got the pressure up to 24 bar (150%) and then the pressure switch started leaking and pressure dropped until it could contain the pressure agsin at 18 bar. I don't have any more blockoff nuts for the pressure switch. Would getting it up to 24 bar briefly be sufficient or should I wait until tomorrow and get another block off nut and try again? If so, could I keep the tank filled overnight or should I drain it and then refill it? It holds 220L of water so it's a bit of a waste.
@@TheChrisey you got it to 150% you should be great. you may need to replace the pressure switch.
@@TheChrisey usually all controls are removed and plugged before pressure testing
@@THECompressorGuru Yep that was my mistake to keep it there. I got it to keep the pressure with water for about an hour after plugging the last component. Also got a new relief valve, a new pressure switch... and the fitting was the wrong size. Store told me it would be a 3/8" and since the compressor outlet is a 1/2" I bought an adapter for that. Turns out the store got the size wrong after I read the manual and it said 1/4" inlet. I guess I have to make yet another trip to the hardware store tomorrow then. At least I was able to try it out by simply keeping that outlet plugged and running the compressor with a manual switch. No leaks, no explosions and it ran surprisingly quiet. I guess I've got myself a new compressor!
Is it good to leave the drain valve open when not in use?
Such as in non climate controlled shops. Would this help prevent internal sweating during temperature swings or make sweating worse.
it can not hurt. but once the moister condensates out of the compressed air, there should be no more water accumulate in the tank fill of air. interesting thought
What if I have a tank with a small pinhole leaking air.... and I need to finish a job (wood finishing job), can I still use it without trying to repair it? The tank also has a safety valve, and I set the compressor to work between 30psi and 60psi..... of course, the compressor keeps running more often, but not that much...... how risky is that?
I do not want to answer this question. because I am not able to see the future. I will say a pin hole is the very best way a tank can fail! get a new tank very soon!!!
The pinhole indicates the tank has failed. You got lucky by getting the tiny leak that tells you the tank is done, instead of the tank just exploding.
@@e-curb a pin hole is a failure. it is the best of failures, rather than a catastrophic explosion!
I have a Saylor Beall 120 gallon tank that looks like it was commissioned in 1969 and last inspected by WA labor and industry in 1997 that I bought off a nice gentleman a couple of months ago. It has a working pressure of 200psi. I got it wired up and ready to go then saw your video. There was some rust bits that came out when I was checking out the drain port (it was bone dry). No more than probably a tablespoon or so and no bits bigger than 1/16-1/8". That was probably from transport knocking it loose. I ran it up to 150psi with no problem (not leaks) then just shut it off and drained it. I'm getting the regulator and hose fittings in the next few days. Would you suggest I do a test run (in my garage) up to shut off with no one home or do all the work to get the fittings to do my own hydro test?
I am very weary giving advice on this. If I bought a brand new tank and used it 40 years and drained it regularly it would still be time to have it tested. knowing that it was re certified 25 years ago is comforting but I do not know what number a boiler inspector would put on a tank recertification. I do not know if you should trust it or not that is up to you. it does sound like it was well kept. We DO NOT hydrotest here . so the fitting question I can not answer. I can tell you ALL fittings on the tank are NPT . you may want to check out Vintage machinery video link in the description above. good luck. and you may contact me through thecompressorguru.com.
lesson one, do not mess with a pressure vessels integrity. don't drill, cut, weld, hammer, drop, shock, hit one. if there's any signs of leakage, immediately vent the pressure off and render it permanently unusable.
I agree with all but the last. a leaking tank can be repaired by a certified welder then hydrotested. before putting air pressure back in it . some larger tanks a may be worth the expense to repair and test. BUT DO NOT JB WELD LOL
@@THECompressorGuru No it can't.
It's technically possible.... but it's prohibitive to do so legally and correctly on these cheap small mass produced vessels. You couldn't even afford to obtain the proper documentation to start with.
Being a code certified welder is only part of it. There's inspection, testing, and documentation that would need to be performed also to be legal.
Not to mention anything that corrodes through is going to be shot and condemned. You cannot weld with any integrity on corroded metal for starters. You can't access the inside to clean it or prep it.
Even larger compressed air accumulator tanks in industry, typically do not even come with man ways. They're basically unrepairable. They are also pretty cheap. You can get a 2000 gallon tank for under $10,000. You couldn't afford to even repair that vs just buying a new one.
@@THECompressorGuru well... that's interesting. Your last words in the video were to NOT weld a pinhole. I recently picked up a 60gal 5hp compressor and realized it has a tiny pinhole. Certainly there must be thin spots inside. I was considering hydrotesting after having it repairing but am getting mixed messages.
@@danielbuckner2167 you did hydro test it to 150% of the working pressure on the tag? if you did after repair then ...ok.
@@THECompressorGuru The repair has not been made yet. It would be tested before use naturally.
thanks alot
Thank you so much. My tank is going into the garbage can.
Talking about all that pie made me hungry!
Thanks Dude
Thank you! How concerned should I be with my little 15lbs 150psi ufo?
Just found my water valve. Might have been a leg saver. I'm embarrassed of my ignorance. Thanks again.
15 lbs 150 psi UFO?
My company has a 165psi compressor that was built in 1941 still working… it scares the living crap out of me to be working anywhere around it
that scares me too. I just spoke to an IR tech last week about this he has a friend that went on disability from a tank exploding by his legs . both legs screwed up for life. tank was 40 years old.
@@THECompressorGuru dude i work on buses.. we have the compressor in 1 of the bays and I’m forced to work 4 feet away from it 9 hours a day with it constantly running.. it’s 165psi 150 gallons… built in 1941 and i drain about a liter of water out of it almost daily.. the boss refuses to replace it or even have it recertified.. i have nightmares about that thing going off
@@mikecorleone6797 show him this video. and express your concern again. if you want have your boss contact me through thecompressorguru.com are you in the US?
@@THECompressorGuru we’re in socal.. I’m sure if that thing exploded it’ll probably leave a mushroom cloud over the shop..
@@mikecorleone6797 I am a real small government kind of guy, but you do have some protection in the form of safety inspectors , osha, and boiler inspectors and on the private side insurance inspectors. any of which would raise serious concern over this situation with your boss. you may be able to make an anonymous call and get some peace of mind.
CHECK THE SAFETY RELIEF VALVE , MAINTENANCE IS THE BEST OPTION
You are absolutely correct. your safety valve should NEVER exceed the certified tank pressure . this does not mean you do not drain the tank daily. and the Maintenance is pulling the safety ring when you service the machine to make sure it is still operable. BTW this is 1 of the checklist items we do on the yearly or quarterly maintenance
@@THECompressorGuru Some pull the safety release valve at zero pressure and presume all is well because the pin moved however when done that way you really do not know if the valve has become plugged, etc. Pull the relief valve while the compressor is running and verify that it at least bleeds off pressure to below the compressors kick in pressure before re-seating itself. Be wary too of the new tanks designed with more convenient drain valves mounted on the front of the tank about 1 inch above the bottom of the vessel. Those drains even if you automate them are pretty pointless unless you tip the tank on its side every time you drain it. Too many design decisions it appears are being made for marketing purposes with little thought about safety.
Best!
@@neilfromclearwaterfl81 1 of the safety checks we do during a PM is pull the pins on all safety valves while under pressure for the very reason you stated.
I have not seen 1 of the new tanks where the drain is not on the bottom of the tank. can you send me a picture through thecompressorguru.com? or give me a brand name and model here? those tanks can not be an coded tank.
@@THECompressorGuru I first started seeing these on portable 1 to 2 gallon hotdog and pancake job site compressors from the store brands but now am seeing them from the more major brands such as Emglo, Makita, Griprite, EstWing, etc not just the King Feng Foo type (generic import/foreign trade brands) plus now on compressors with 10 to 30+ gallon tanks. Most recently was on a McGraw/Harbor Freight 29 gallon upright compressor. This is showing up on all tank styles pancake, hotdog, horizontal and vertical. I've even seen them on some truck mount compressors while driving about. It makes me cringe especially when they're on the sizes that some are inclined to bolt down and hard plumb in a small shop making it so you can't easily tip them over for draining. When I see the verbiage highlighting an easy to access drain location as a selling point I become concerned. Some have modified the bell end to have a channel stamped into it running down to the side drain which is better however you have to hope the now non-symetrical bell was well enough engineered to compensate for the uneven stresses that would introduce.
When marketers and bean counters start designing product going against sound engineering principles its not a very good thing. Look at what this has done to the commercial aircraft industry just with the current version of the 737 experiencing crashes and near fatal events from slapping new style of engines on that change the center of moment and then relying on automated safety systems to make up for the lack of good engineering.
Perhaps in the sub $1000 compressor market they're hoping the majority will experience pump or motor failure and be disposed of before the tanks fail from not being able to easily drain them properly.
Thankfully some shops I've seen these in are at least putting some type of safety enclosure around them to contain things even if its just 1 1/4" pipe and heavy chain link hurricane fence.
And yet tanks are never made of a rust proof material. Stainless steel might be a candidate for tank material as can be other more expensive alloys. I have always burped air compressors. Besides being a rust causing hazard water takes up space air should be occupying.
I wonder just how much more these tanks would cost if made of stainless steel?
I have no idea but that is an interesting idea.
Don't let this video scare you. This happens to cheap thin tanks. Or super super old ones with tons of rust. I collect and repair compressors. And I also repair my own tanks. Yes I weld on them and yes I'll add a new port if I need one or add legs or fix the legs. But I hydro test all of my tanks after the work I do. You can work on air tanks. You just need to hydro test them and keep you're water drained out of them at all times
not trying to scare folk . I am trying to get people to take proper care and caution with what has the potential to be a bomb. the vessel is literately storing energy like a battery. or the gas tank on your car. but this is a storage device that requires some more maintenance ( drain daily). it shows that you care for the safety for yourself and who ever gets the machines you work on and that is why you do hydro test.
Scared me a little, but sometimes it better to be scared into making sure you know what you are doing than getting blown up by an air bomb!
Also when got 5 hp one used looks great 100$ cost more gas ,time. Any way looks to have honey oil in compressor when turn on whip it up some. No site glass full on dip stick. Clean should change it or is it good type compressor oil like honey. I know have see it just wondering if make such thing heard of compressor oil but it expensive. So be motor oil that go in it. Kinda looks like lucus oil. Idk. Thanks
never use detergent motor oil in a splash lube compressor. not going to type out why... just do NOT. as for other oils yes compressor oil cost more . but there are anti rust and foam additives in it that make it the right oil for compressor pumps. if you have no other options NON detergent motor oil can be used. Compressor oil should not get dirty looking in normal operations. its different from engine oil in the respect engine oil gets dirty because of the soot that blows past the rings because of combustion. you still need to change the oil because the oil molecules will break down after heat and will not lubricate properly. you may contact me through thecompressorguru.com if there is anything else I can help you with.
why don't your compressors have safety blow off valves so if the pressure switch doesn't stop the compressor at desired pressure then the safety valve releases at a pre determined pressure (usually 175 psu)
psi
So what you ask on its face makes sense. but on a cold morning the pressure switch may not shut off till 185 or 190. the springs in the switch are very temperature sensitive . you may also have 2-3 or more machines lined up and set in series with the primary set at 180 the next set at 170 and so on. just because they are factory set at 175 most brand 2 stages are perfectly capable of pumping higher and some customers need that little extra. the important thing is to not exceed the tank max working pressure with a higher set popoff/safety. see this link about cold weather pressure problems.
ruclips.net/video/IzT6fykKDwQ/видео.html
@@THECompressorGuru in Australia most pressure switches are preset to under 150 psi and safety valves 180 psi and most that I've seen how an electric auto drain attached to drain plug draining water every 40 minutes for 3 seconds
@@michaeledwards8058 interesting about the preset on the machines there.
the elec drains I sell are fully adjustable, with adjustments for length of how long the drain is open and time between when drain opens.
@@THECompressorGuru yea I've seem them too
Hi can I use a rattle gun on a small compressor i have not tried this yet I notice some rattle guns are small and I guess would require high pressure to make them work some are large and may only need low pressure to operate .my neighbour uses a nail gun that has a jam tin tank and drives one inch nails very good the jam tin tank is very solid steel and I don't think will ever explode on a quarter horse motor
Its not the HP on the motor its the pressure in the tank that it the concern. I am wondering what you are calling a rattle gun?
@@THECompressorGuru rattle gun is an air impact wrench
@@HDXFH never heard that one . thanks
now Im paranoid. Ive left it go months without draining it. and Ive had it bolted to the concrete floor with a tapcon and no pad. Now Im worried. I have a boroscope maybe I can look in there through the drain hole. Rated at 135 I go no higher than 100. Sanborn 1993.
drain the tank!!! you can look with the bore-scope but the only real test is to hydyo test. Is the tank certified?
@@THECompressorGuru It hast that tag on it that you showed us. It says on that tag Certified by SMC. Then there is the square logo with the letters UM. It says MAWP 135psi at 650 deg F. Also has the letter W under the UM logo. I bought it new in 1993. It came with wheels. Should I weld ears on the frame (not the tank) and bolt it to the concrete floor with 4 tapcons? I will inspect it with the boroscope and I dont know where to have it cleaned with that wand and hydrotested again I dont know of a place that does that. Thanks very much for the help by the way.
@@ScreamingEagleFTW Yes you can weld on legs and mounting area. DO NOT weld on tank. how big is the tank? the inspection holes are only on big tanks. won't be back at computer till monday. have a great weekend.
Literally all you have to do is read the owners manual safety instructions and this can easily be avoided.
Amen, Amen, Amen
It’s probably not much money they could make these tanks last a lot longer and get rid of all the safety problems you know you don’t see propane tanks blowing up all over the place with all the videos and pictures of injuries you know maybe we should start forcing them to plasticize the inside of these tanks or coat them with something and can you soak the tank and oil from when it’s brand new to keep it from rusting I just wondered
the plastic idea i think is a good one. the oil... I think it would eventually drain off and water would eventually cause the same problem. you should contact a tank company and share that with them you might be the first.
who calculates stored energy with pounds? are we comparing it to a gravity battery? no one has one of those to use as a reference.
the energy in compressed air is measured in PSI Pounds per square inch and the explosive force can be calculated from that measurement.
sorry for the slow reply went to bike week in daytona
I’m buying a used compressor tomorrow, it’s a 1991 “America Air” and it doesn’t have a gauge on it, but it says it was professionally serviced bi-yearly
What do you think? Just an inspection and add a gauge?
Mr Cat. I am not familiar with this brand. therefore I have no recommendation . I googled the name and did not get any exact match. Good Luck
I just removed a comment for inappropriate use of Jesus's name.
we can disagree about stuff but be nice.
Jeez, us folks should know better.
No use in vain, thanks be to God. Good looking out.