for what it's worth, here are a few quick tips. 1) Watch through part one and 2 before even opening the box. then watch again as you build. 2) Put a small strip of masking tape on at least one side to hold the tiny nuts in place. that will save you a lot of time searching for dropped parts and save the ears of people around you. 3) In my kit, the wire labels were all on the wrong end of the wires. Make sure they are nearest the end of the cable that plugs into the board (they all slid along easily) 4) The print head wire bundle is clamped on the right side when facing the control panel. I initially fit it for that then when all done I switched it to the left side. It seems to work better. I used the nut that holds the backplate of the control panel with a spare washer to hold the cable clamp.
A quick tip. Place the nuts in the little slot, then put a piece of masking tape on both sides of the slot. The nut stays in no matter what position you place the pieces, or if you bump them.
To anyone busing this, don't but the t rod far into the stepper coupling. Only 5mm, the stepper spindle should only enter 5mm from the other side of the coupling too. If you put them in all the way you will loose the flexibility of coupling and you will notice the top of the t rod oscillate left and right. Also never contrain the top of the t rod like lots of people do as it will make it staticly indeterminate. Don't take my word for it, research it for your self.
Great vid - especially considering the lack of sound. Concise, clear (even if the M3*25 was a bit dodgy), and well edited. Would recommend this Anet A8 printer - I'm a total beginner but so far have had no problems assembling it. But I haven't got to running it yet so we'll see how that goes!
A quick tip. The mount for the the left hand Z-axis motor might be too narrow for length of screws provided. The screws might bottom out in the motor before it becomes snug on the mount. Placing two M3 washers onto the screw before threading it through the mount into the motor should fix it.
Y-axis binding solution: if you find the Y-axis doesn't move smoothly check that the sheet aluminium parts of the H bed are flat. Particularly the sides of the "H". They are stamped out and this can give them a very slight curve that causes the bearings to bind when you tighten down the screws. The fix for me was to place the H frame on two rods then press firmly but carefully in the middle to straighten them. Made a big difference to how easily my Y-axis moves.
When installing the Z - Rod motor housings I found it a lot easier to flip the frame on its back. That way I could slot the miniscule nuts into the holder without having to fiddle about, dropping the nuts trying to hold them in place
During assembly of linear bearings and the rods (around 15:30) you can save few seconds (and some frustration :)) by adding the linear bearings to the rods (from both sides at the time) and then, from the top, slide the rod to the front plate first and then slide it into holes in back plane (or other way round of course in case you do not have the guide rod back plates in place).
I'm putting my A8 together today and have come across a snag! At 33.26 in the vid, you say to install the x axis motor. OK, not only my the mounting bracket different,(using 4 screw holes instead of 3), but more annoying you say to use 3x M3*25 screws. Two problems. 1: I need 4 screws and 2: I have not got any M3*25 screws to begin with!!! Please help Phil
Look - it's for 158.99 USD www.gearbest.com/3d-printers-3d-printer-kits/pp_337314.html?wid=21&lkid=10312400 I bought one ruclips.net/video/-tiHfzBQZpI/видео.html
The protection paper is kept on for demonstration purpose, as the parts are easier to distinguish from each other then. Notice that he got the Y-bed upside down which results in the Y-belt not running parallel.
followed this video, took 6 hours from start to printing. well the assembly took 5 hours and 1 hour figuring how to play around before the first print especially bed leveling. though there are few steps that are different compared ro mine such as the location of the x axis switch. overall really easy to follow. i hate that acrylic protector that you have to peel first probably took 20 minutes in total.
Hello David and thank you for the video, I did not have the bed metallic support and I think that this is why he bangs in the extremity. It's finer than that of origin.: (
Cool video. Shame I have to go buy a load of the right screws before I can finish the build (no m4's and short on some m3's) but for the price I'm ok with that. Kit was also missing most of the little wooden tabs that hold the rods in place. Again not a great issue cos simple enough to make but it is slightly frustrating that instead of building in one day and getting to test it, it'll now take a few days before I can see if it all actually works or not. But anyway, this video helped a lot and is easy to follow along. 😊
I either have bad bearings or a couple bad rods. One of the x rods has issues with the bearing sliding back and forth and a year rod wasn't very smooth. I rolled the rods on the table and didn't see much of an issue with it, but who knows.
please help me with this question.... my hotbed not run smooth, it is normal? even if I loose the belt the movement is not smooth I have to make some pressure so the bed runs.... any help or advice? thanks
A quick tip. If you ever meet someone that say you should leave the protective paper on the acrylic until after everything is assembled, punch them in the mouth for me. Once everything is assembled, there is a lot of protective paper caught between adjoining parts, and under screw heads, and in really awkward corners. Unless you're assembling the printer in a sandbox while wearing steel wool mittens, it's fine to remove the paper first.
Hi. I managed to assemble my A8. The instructions are not too easy to follow some screws were missing but I managed to get A pack of screws locally. But I managed to work it out. The only problem I have is the extruder is switched off and I cannot work out how to switch it on.
I noticed while assembling my printer that the idler bearings for the two belts are not free to spin. I solved this by making washers from ordinary printer weight paper to keep the rim of the bearing off the frame. This is important because otherwise the belt will be wearing its teeth off on the bearing, and the drag in X and Y drives will be high.
David, my stepper motor for the extruder is making a knocking sound. It appears that the filament is not being pulled through to the hot end. Any thoughts? Could it be the stepper driver? It does retract but just seems to be skipping. And it has gotten worse. Do you want/ need my serial number. I have not had this printer for a month yet. Thanks.
Hello nice video on the anet A8 3d printer I just fished building mine and now I have to install the soft ware do I have to install all 3 file I have ch340Gdrive,cura14.07 and repetierhost1_0_5 sorry I am new to this this is my first one thanks mike
Hi. I've just bought one of these and have been getting everything I need. One thing I wanted to know is this printer easially collapsible or able to fit in a large storage box? I don't have the room to have it setup permanently. Thanks
You can peel off the paper as it is only necessary during manufacture of the acrylic parts. I think they only kept the protection intact on the video as they intended to sell the demo unit on. You will also notice that he hasn't tightened any screws.
The 2-9-2 Y axis motor support is different in my box. It fits, but the hole for the nut and screw is different so i can not put it on. What to do now?
hola como estáis, en la caja de mi anet no llego el swicth de 700 mm que me aconsejáis que haga?? no lo encuentro en ningún lado del empaque ... gracias por tu ayuda
When I got mine done I plugged it in and it turned on and everything was fine. Then I unplugged it and took it to a different room and plugged in there and it worked. I unplugged it and left for a few minutes. When I came back and plugged it in it wouldn’t turn on. I have checked every connection and they all look good. Can anyone tell me what is wrong. P.S. I have the 110/220 switch correct.
They don’t give you enough M4*8 screws for this build. At 18:00 he says use 16 for the bed. At 36:18 he says use 12 for extruder. That’s 28 pieces. The kit comes with 22.
I have the Anet A-8 printer but my power cord dose not have the brown wire my cord has the black green and white so how do I hook it up to the power bord
I can't seem to get the 2nd axle for the instruction at 33:10. There seems to be a screw in it that doesn't have any screw head on it, & it's blocking the axle from getting through.
i have 4 y axis fixation clamps, but only one has wide enough holes for the m4*14 screws the other three seem to have holes for the m3 screws. the one with the wide enough holes is 4.4 mm thick while the 3 others are 5.5mm השב
David, please take a look at the mounting of H-Carriage mount: ruclips.net/video/-tiHfzBQZpI/видео.html When mounting like you instruct, the belt will not be parallel. Mounting the H-Carriage upside down seems to work better: 3dprint.wiki/reprap/anet/a8/bed-carriage Any comments?
I noticed the same while assembling my a8 earlier while lining up the belt to make sure it was running true, the belt still runs a little high, (I think I'l be making someting to get it truely parrallel is due course) if you do this I would also rotate the Y motor so the connector points down to avoid the possibility of its cabling being fouled - thanks for posting this video its helped a lot - its much appreciated
Hi , What is the problem ... When the initial operation, the extruder is directed to the opposite side to the end and continues for a while the engine rotates even when the extruder reaches the end ... The same applies to the surface ... Also, the z direction motor works one and the other does not work .. Note that I almost checked the connections All are correct
Hello, David Dan, This is an amazing 3D printer! Nicely done. I recently received mine. Quick question, I do have the The X Motor Line The Y Motor Line The E-Motor line (Extruder Line) But there was the Z motor sticker stuck to the Y Motor Line. There are now 2 UNLABELED Lines they are the same length about 900mm or about (35inches). Are the 2 Z Motor lines both Long in an upgraded version (I bought mine in October) compared to the shorter line you have in the video at 24:55 in the video?? Would it make a difference if I were to switch or mix-match those 2 unlabeled lines? Please Answer as soon as possible, I am stuck as of now
I'm in the middle of my build and there are two separate lengths for z as in the video, the right hand motor has a 900mm and the left hand one is about half as long. As long as they worked when you did the self test, and you have long enough lines for everything else it won't matter if you mix and match. But I would check the parts list and make sure you don't leave yourself with too short a lead for the xmotor or extruder
Stuck at 21:15, the M3*30 screws will not fit through the bottom holes with the wing nuts. They are stripping and now one screw is stuck tight in this hole. I just put a hole in my finger trying to force the screws in!
Just ruined one screw with pliers trying to get it out, realized that the tips of some of these M3*30 screws are defective and the threading isn't quite right? Gotta make sure your screw threading is correct before trying to force them through these holes...
After reading that the H-carriage can be installed upside down to align the Y-belt better, I tried that and 3 of the 4 screws went in flawlessly. It took a couple hours of careful screwing and unscrewing to get the last damn screw to go through to affix the wing nuts at this stage... Jeez!
I bought an Anet A8 but my model is slightly different from this in that the LCD isn't top mounted and appears to be freestanding. No help from Anet regarding correct assembly instructions though!
X motor : 25 mm screws ... not included :(. found some at home, and they are too long ... 18 are too short... only 4 20mm provided, supposedly for something else. That is a fail (and the plastic motor support part profided is different, has 4 screw holes)
Hi ! I got a question here , is the threat rod is no need to put into the top hole ? you know what I mean or not ? I mean the one into the flexible coupling one ... Bcos its not long enough from flexible coupling to the top hole :( tks
You need to undo both sides of the flexible coupling and position it on the end of the motor shaft. I had to relieve the end of the screw rod a little with a Dremel disk to get it into the coupler. You don't need to take much off
Personally just getting the paper off of the black plastic parts is the most time consuming part. I'm an auto tech myself so I screw in nuts and bolts all day....but usually M6 at the smaller end rather than M3. :P
hihi, i got this a few years ago and just got round to do it, however some pieces are missing or different from whats shown in the video so uhhhhh help bois
can anyone help me, my y motor seems to not function properly and at idle rocks back and forth while making a slight grinding sound , i switched the x and y plugs which solved the issue for y but then x had the same issue makes me think bad y port?
*Dartharden* There are two small grub-screws in the back of the right side white piece, these need to be loosened with the smallest hex key. The plastic itself is still quite grippy so I didn't bother tightening them again afterwards. If the rods still won't go in, you can use the shortest piece of threaded rod (for the filament stand) to grind away some of the plastic, as the threaded rods are the same diameter as the smooth ones.
these are where I used my M3*12 screws: Y Motor - 4 X motors - 8 power supply - 3 hope that helps, if you got less than that I'd suggest you contact anet and give them the unit ID at the upper left of the printer
The rods that the extruder rides on are VERY tight, is there a easy way to get them in? I dont want to bend the rods but they are so tight I will need to use a hammer to get them through the plastic.
The paper is often in the way. The fit is sometimes very tight and the paper will need to be removed then. It also gives a nicer finish ;) without the paper.
The paper is not of any structural significance. it is merely to keep the acrylic from getting scratched. The only other thing the paper does is help you find the holes.
My guide rod wont even go through all the way in the Z axis nut support. Its too tight, unlike in this video, its almost smooth and can be pushed by the hand. I've been hitting it hard with hammer and my hands but wont go through. Its stuck. Why did you guys make it like this. Its probably why some people get a bent rod because of this process. I'm talking about the 33:05 s section of the video.
Yep, no thanks to non-existant tech support and Gearbest's total lack of after sales policy (they just wanted me to return it to China). I had to hack saw some parts off the main frame and drill a new hole. Didn't take too long, just put the rest of the printer together until you can see how it's supposed to line up. It's not the part itself that's wrong, they cut the end of the frame that it fits in about 10mm too far.
This is how Assembly Instructions should be made. Simple, not over detailed and with the original tools. Very well done!
for what it's worth, here are a few quick tips.
1) Watch through part one and 2 before even opening the box.
then watch again as you build.
2) Put a small strip of masking tape on at least one side to hold the tiny nuts in place. that will save you a lot of time searching for dropped parts and save the ears of people around you.
3) In my kit, the wire labels were all on the wrong end of the wires. Make sure they are nearest the end of the cable that plugs into the board (they all slid along easily)
4) The print head wire bundle is clamped on the right side when facing the control panel. I initially fit it for that then when all done I switched it to the left side. It seems to work better. I used the nut that holds the backplate of the control panel with a spare washer to hold the cable clamp.
Thanks for the tips! Definitely will try them out once I start building
By far the best how to video on putting together the A8 3D Printer. Thank you
A quick tip. Place the nuts in the little slot, then put a piece of masking tape on both sides of the slot. The nut stays in no matter what position you place the pieces, or if you bump them.
Smart
To anyone busing this, don't but the t rod far into the stepper coupling. Only 5mm, the stepper spindle should only enter 5mm from the other side of the coupling too. If you put them in all the way you will loose the flexibility of coupling and you will notice the top of the t rod oscillate left and right. Also never contrain the top of the t rod like lots of people do as it will make it staticly indeterminate. Don't take my word for it, research it for your self.
No idea why there are so many thumbs down. I'm about to build my 3rd A8 and of course I'm watching this high speed to refresh my memory!
Great vid - especially considering the lack of sound. Concise, clear (even if the M3*25 was a bit dodgy), and well edited. Would recommend this Anet A8 printer - I'm a total beginner but so far have had no problems assembling it. But I haven't got to running it yet so we'll see how that goes!
A quick tip. The mount for the the left hand Z-axis motor might be too narrow for length of screws provided. The screws might bottom out in the motor before it becomes snug on the mount. Placing two M3 washers onto the screw before threading it through the mount into the motor should fix it.
Y-axis binding solution: if you find the Y-axis doesn't move smoothly check that the sheet aluminium parts of the H bed are flat. Particularly the sides of the "H". They are stamped out and this can give them a very slight curve that causes the bearings to bind when you tighten down the screws. The fix for me was to place the H frame on two rods then press firmly but carefully in the middle to straighten them. Made a big difference to how easily my Y-axis moves.
ColinWatters here’s my three prints from this $140 printer. i67.tinypic.com/2dgsyoi.jpg
be nice if there was some audio that we could listen to to follow along with instead of trying to figure out what part is in hand by looking.
I doubt he speaks english.
Great video! It's here bit.ly/2DQBsS3
A good choice :)
ruclips.net/video/-tiHfzBQZpI/видео.html
Many thanks for this tuto
My first 3D printer, only 5 hours to build and strat first print thanks to you \o/
Nice job :)
Excellent clear descriptive video. Do add the third part and show how to print something using a software interfacing with a PC
When installing the Z - Rod motor housings I found it a lot easier to flip the frame on its back. That way I could slot the miniscule nuts into the holder without having to fiddle about, dropping the nuts trying to hold them in place
During assembly of linear bearings and the rods (around 15:30) you can save few seconds (and some frustration :)) by adding the linear bearings to the rods (from both sides at the time) and then, from the top, slide the rod to the front plate first and then slide it into holes in back plane (or other way round of course in case you do not have the guide rod back plates in place).
I'm putting my A8 together today and have come across a snag! At 33.26 in the vid, you say to install the x axis motor.
OK, not only my the mounting bracket different,(using 4 screw holes instead of 3), but more annoying you say to use 3x M3*25 screws.
Two problems. 1: I need 4 screws and 2: I have not got any M3*25 screws to begin with!!!
Please help
Phil
I just came across the same problem. De PDF included however, tells you to use the M3*20's (Assembly step 12, page 31)
Thanks I had the same problem
Itrme thanks I was stuck but this helped
Look - it's for 158.99 USD
www.gearbest.com/3d-printers-3d-printer-kits/pp_337314.html?wid=21&lkid=10312400
I bought one
ruclips.net/video/-tiHfzBQZpI/видео.html
wow thanks, i had the same probolem and you solved it. HEROO!!!
The protection paper is kept on for demonstration purpose, as the parts are easier to distinguish from each other then.
Notice that he got the Y-bed upside down which results in the Y-belt not running parallel.
Best video I ever saw in clarity of description
I found Poster putty or blue tack a great help to hold the nuts in place
followed this video, took 6 hours from start to printing. well the assembly took 5 hours and 1 hour figuring how to play around before the first print especially bed leveling. though there are few steps that are different compared ro mine such as the location of the x axis switch. overall really easy to follow. i hate that acrylic protector that you have to peel first probably took 20 minutes in total.
Hello David and thank you for the video, I did not have the bed metallic support and I think that this is why he bangs in the extremity. It's finer than that of origin.: (
Glad it can help you
And how much costs this support ?
thanks for the video
Well, even though Mr Dan prompts you to ask ("Any more questions, please feel free to ask"), it seems Mr Dan doesn't actually ANSWER any of them.
NA MINHA OPINIÃO
ESTE FOI O VÍDEO BEM MAIS EXPLICADO
PARABÉNS A MINHA
ANET A8 JÁ ESTÁ CHEGANDO
Cool video.
Shame I have to go buy a load of the right screws before I can finish the build (no m4's and short on some m3's) but for the price I'm ok with that.
Kit was also missing most of the little wooden tabs that hold the rods in place.
Again not a great issue cos simple enough to make but it is slightly frustrating that instead of building in one day and getting to test it, it'll now take a few days before I can see if it all actually works or not.
But anyway, this video helped a lot and is easy to follow along. 😊
I either have bad bearings or a couple bad rods. One of the x rods has issues with the bearing sliding back and forth and a year rod wasn't very smooth. I rolled the rods on the table and didn't see much of an issue with it, but who knows.
please help me with this question.... my hotbed not run smooth, it is normal? even if I loose the belt the movement is not smooth I have to make some pressure so the bed runs.... any help or advice? thanks
A quick tip. If you ever meet someone that say you should leave the protective paper on the acrylic until after everything is assembled, punch them in the mouth for me. Once everything is assembled, there is a lot of protective paper caught between adjoining parts, and under screw heads, and in really awkward corners. Unless you're assembling the printer in a sandbox while wearing steel wool mittens, it's fine to remove the paper first.
Hi. I managed to assemble my A8. The instructions are not too easy to follow some screws were missing but I managed to get A pack of screws locally. But I managed to work it out. The only problem I have is the extruder is switched off and I cannot work out how to switch it on.
I noticed while assembling my printer that the idler bearings for the two belts are not free to spin. I solved this by making washers from ordinary printer weight paper to keep the rim of the bearing off the frame. This is important because otherwise the belt will be wearing its teeth off on the bearing, and the drag in X and Y drives will be high.
very good video
David, my stepper motor for the extruder is making a knocking sound. It appears that the filament is not being pulled through to the hot end. Any thoughts? Could it be the stepper driver? It does retract but just seems to be skipping. And it has gotten worse. Do you want/ need my serial number. I have not had this printer for a month yet. Thanks.
Hello nice video on the anet A8 3d printer I just fished building mine and now I have to install the soft ware do I have to install all 3 file I have ch340Gdrive,cura14.07 and repetierhost1_0_5 sorry I am new to this this is my first one thanks mike
Hi. I've just bought one of these and have been getting everything I need. One thing I wanted to know is this printer easially collapsible or able to fit in a large storage box? I don't have the room to have it setup permanently. Thanks
Definitely not easily collapsible
F.Up. nr. 1 for me. 7:37. fitting the Y limit switch. don't over tighten the screw. it can crack the bracket.
did I miss the installation of the x axis limit switch or is it just not installed in the video ?
is it possible to take out the acrylic paper protection?
You can peel off the paper as it is only necessary during manufacture of the acrylic parts. I think they only kept the protection intact on the video as they intended to sell the demo unit on. You will also notice that he hasn't tightened any screws.
Thanks a lot, man.
use a hair dryer to heat it up
Peel it of and then start...it's the best way
The 2-9-2 Y axis motor support is different in my box. It fits, but the hole for the nut and screw is different so i can not put it on. What to do now?
hola como estáis, en la caja de mi anet no llego el swicth de 700 mm que me aconsejáis que haga?? no lo encuentro en ningún lado del empaque ... gracias por tu ayuda
When I got mine done I plugged it in and it turned on and everything was fine. Then I unplugged it and took it to a different room and plugged in there and it worked. I unplugged it and left for a few minutes. When I came back and plugged it in it wouldn’t turn on. I have checked every connection and they all look good. Can anyone tell me what is wrong. P.S. I have the 110/220 switch correct.
They don’t give you enough M4*8 screws for this build. At 18:00 he says use 16 for the bed. At 36:18 he says use 12 for extruder. That’s 28 pieces. The kit comes with 22.
Not sure but after further investigation I think the H platform for the hotbed is upside down. Think I'm going to dismantle mine & reverse it.
The rod with bearings on it at 17:00 is too long for me. How to fix?
NVM I did it.
32:40 you were hammering them in but there was a screw on the back to loosen it. really helpfull tutorial though, thanks!
I have the Anet A-8 printer but my power cord dose not have the brown wire my cord has the black green and white so how do I hook it up to the power bord
The protective paper is to be removed BEFORE assembling ! After it's impossible.
Either you skipped an assembly of a part or my printer didn't come with mine assembled
at 11:20
Some how I don’t have any m3 18s left after 29:30 but there is a bag I have with way more screws than the label says. Any help?
I can't seem to get the 2nd axle for the instruction at 33:10. There seems to be a screw in it that doesn't have any screw head on it, & it's blocking the axle from getting through.
You might want to take the scratch protecor off all the pieces before you assembel this saves a lot of time later...
You got one for the A8-M? The video has NO instructions and the instructions that come with it ask for the incorrect guide bar sizes.
Hello David! excellent and clear assembly!
Say and at the top of ball screws are not fixed to the bearings?
hi friend , it's ok , we just leave the gap for the bearing .
i have 4 y axis fixation clamps, but only one has wide enough holes for the m4*14 screws the other three seem to have holes for the m3 screws. the one with the wide enough holes is 4.4 mm thick while the 3 others are 5.5mm
השב
Is the H-bed assembled upside down in the video?
Irwin Chee no
what kind of belt do I get for an upgrade? I cant find the specification for what kind of belt this requires
where can I submit that code I'm missing the 1-8-3 M3*7 4pcs and the M3*15 4pcs also I'm missing the 1-6-4 M3*45 screw 2pcs and the M3 spacer 8 pcs
David, please take a look at the mounting of H-Carriage mount:
ruclips.net/video/-tiHfzBQZpI/видео.html
When mounting like you instruct, the belt will not be parallel. Mounting the H-Carriage upside down seems to work better:
3dprint.wiki/reprap/anet/a8/bed-carriage
Any comments?
I noticed that just building mine now. Is it worth me undoing that many screws?
Let the smooth rails come out and then you'll have very access to the H-carriage. It all takes less than 10m.
Thanks for the tip
I did it and it works a bit better :)
I noticed the same while assembling my a8 earlier while lining up the belt to make sure it was running true, the belt still runs a little high, (I think I'l be making someting to get it truely parrallel is due course) if you do this I would also rotate the Y motor so the connector points down to avoid the possibility of its cabling being fouled - thanks for posting this video its helped a lot - its much appreciated
Hi , What is the problem ... When the initial operation, the extruder is directed to the opposite side to the end and continues for a while the engine rotates even when the extruder reaches the end ... The same applies to the surface ... Also, the z direction motor works one and the other does not work .. Note that I almost checked the connections All are correct
My printer is Anet a8
Excuse me I just ordered one of these printers is this the last version of the tutorials?
Hi David
Very well made video, helped me a lot with the assembly of the A8 printer.
Hello, David Dan, This is an amazing 3D printer! Nicely done. I recently received mine. Quick question, I do have the
The X Motor Line
The Y Motor Line
The E-Motor line (Extruder Line)
But there was the Z motor sticker stuck to the Y Motor Line. There are now 2 UNLABELED Lines they are the same length about 900mm or about (35inches).
Are the 2 Z Motor lines both Long in an upgraded version (I bought mine in October) compared to the shorter line you have in the video at 24:55 in the video?? Would it make a difference if I were to switch or mix-match those 2 unlabeled lines?
Please Answer as soon as possible, I am stuck as of now
I'm in the middle of my build and there are two separate lengths for z as in the video, the right hand motor has a 900mm and the left hand one is about half as long. As long as they worked when you did the self test, and you have long enough lines for everything else it won't matter if you mix and match. But I would check the parts list and make sure you don't leave yourself with too short a lead for the xmotor or extruder
Thanks. Just connected all wires.Doing Self test now
As long as it can Reach the motherboard from the Motors
the m2 screws can easily snap while screwing em in
Should the x motor be really tight mine doesn't tighten all the way
where am i supposed to submit the code if it is not working?
my extruder wont heat up past 23.3° but the ved heats up all the way
any ideas?
Why did you leave the paper on the plexiglass?
Hello, I have problems with the motor X. The screew M3*25 are too long and don't fix the motor.I mean the screws should be shorter
That's true. I used some washers that I had laying around to fix that. You could also file off 2 mm of the length of the screws.
if the x motor is connected to he piece that overs the whole motor you need to use the M3*20
I am building it now, but I have the same problem as he does at 31:14 but I can't find out what he changed. can someone explain please?
What tools do I need to complete this build?
Stuck at 21:15, the M3*30 screws will not fit through the bottom holes with the wing nuts. They are stripping and now one screw is stuck tight in this hole. I just put a hole in my finger trying to force the screws in!
Just ruined one screw with pliers trying to get it out, realized that the tips of some of these M3*30 screws are defective and the threading isn't quite right? Gotta make sure your screw threading is correct before trying to force them through these holes...
After reading that the H-carriage can be installed upside down to align the Y-belt better, I tried that and 3 of the 4 screws went in flawlessly. It took a couple hours of careful screwing and unscrewing to get the last damn screw to go through to affix the wing nuts at this stage... Jeez!
I'm in the same sh*t and the screws doesn't fit...
I bought an Anet A8 but my model is slightly different from this in that the LCD isn't top mounted and appears to be freestanding. No help from Anet regarding correct assembly instructions though!
It's not an A8, who ever sold it to you sold a similar clone.
How long is the M3*12 screws? They weren't included in mine so I'll have to order some.
12mm
how do we connect a bl touch to your anet v1 board . or will they not work
The cubed part for at 24:18 doesn’t fit correctly the sides that fit into the slots are too big
my printer didn't include the acrylic part shown @6.45 :(
X motor : 25 mm screws ... not included :(. found some at home, and they are too long ... 18 are too short... only 4 20mm provided, supposedly for something else. That is a fail (and the plastic motor support part profided is different, has 4 screw holes)
Add some mussssiiiiiiccccc pleeeaaaase! :) good video thank you!
Hi ! I got a question here , is the threat rod is no need to put into the top hole ? you know what I mean or not ? I mean the one into the flexible coupling one ...
Bcos its not long enough from flexible coupling to the top hole :(
tks
You need to undo both sides of the flexible coupling and position it on the end of the motor shaft. I had to relieve the end of the screw rod a little with a Dremel disk to get it into the coupler. You don't need to take much off
checkout the Facebook group for Anet I8 printer - there's a diagram there covering how to adjust the z-axis couplers like evanpanz suggests
At 17:14 you see the metal thingy, but in the package it's covered in blue. Do I need to take that off?
Mathijs Groothuis yes
4 hours in and I'm only on 21 minutes.... and I build parts for planes for a living!
Personally just getting the paper off of the black plastic parts is the most time consuming part. I'm an auto tech myself so I screw in nuts and bolts all day....but usually M6 at the smaller end rather than M3. :P
Exelent.... thank you... :)
hihi, i got this a few years ago and just got round to do it, however some pieces are missing or different from whats shown in the video so uhhhhh help bois
shoud the belt be real easy or kinda stiff to move?
It should not be able to slip on the motor. So not too stiff but certainly not to easy either. The motor will give some resistance too.
Thanks
can anyone help me, my y motor seems to not function properly and at idle rocks back and forth while making a slight grinding sound , i switched the x and y plugs which solved the issue for y but then x had the same issue makes me think bad y port?
on the step with the extruder bracket. none of the holes were tapped correctly and now they're all strip and so are the screws.
That happened with me too. The paint or coating is the problem. I used a tapping tool to fix the thread.
my t rods are to short by 37mm any suggestions ?
the screws for the bed are not fat enough so you can't screw them so the butterfly nut do all the job
Hello need an info here , can I use PETG filament on this printer ?
Tks
It's ok , but check the temp carefully .
www.aliexpress.com/store/product/3D-printer-extruder-Extruder-for-desktop-FDM-3D-printer-reprap-MK8-J-head-bowden-free-shipping/1654223_32757902679.html?spm=2114.8147860.0.0.evyQB8
also where do you get these 3d printers
www.gearbest.com/3d-printers-3d-printer-kits/pp_337314.html
The two horizontal guide rods were almost impossible to get into the holes. Is that normal?
*Dartharden* There are two small grub-screws in the back of the right side white piece, these need to be loosened with the smallest hex key. The plastic itself is still quite grippy so I didn't bother tightening them again afterwards. If the rods still won't go in, you can use the shortest piece of threaded rod (for the filament stand) to grind away some of the plastic, as the threaded rods are the same diameter as the smooth ones.
I don't have enough M3*12 screws. The parts list only says 3 as well
these are where I used my M3*12 screws:
Y Motor - 4
X motors - 8
power supply - 3
hope that helps, if you got less than that I'd suggest you contact anet and give them the unit ID at the upper left of the printer
hi can you please help I'm using and old computer with vista is there software available
Chay The Panda Um yes but 7 is better I suggest upgrading
The rods that the extruder rides on are VERY tight, is there a easy way to get them in? I dont want to bend the rods but they are so tight I will need to use a hammer to get them through the plastic.
yes I used a rubber hammer on mine when I built it
Does it make a stronger frame if we keep paper on acrylic?
The paper is often in the way. The fit is sometimes very tight and the paper will need to be removed then. It also gives a nicer finish ;) without the paper.
The paper is not of any structural significance. it is merely to keep the acrylic from getting scratched. The only other thing the paper does is help you find the holes.
thanks!
Hello! that is a 8mm thick acrilic board right??
Yes
does he mean 22mm or 22 cm? If its mm thats thats weird
A quick tip. Use blue thread lock on everything and you won't have to worry about something working it's way loose later.
Spill blue thread lock on any part of the acrylic joint and kiss that part goodbye.
Kip Landingham yes, loctite reacts with acrylic weakening it. Stay away
I prefer a dab of PVA wood glue after doing up the nut. This can be broken off easily if you need to undo it later.
Yes a quick tip, not a very useful tip though...
Is that supposed to be 20cm not mm?
Yes it is 20cm
My guide rod wont even go through all the way in the Z axis nut support. Its too tight, unlike in this video, its almost smooth and can be pushed by the hand. I've been hitting it hard with hammer and my hands but wont go through. Its stuck. Why did you guys make it like this. Its probably why some people get a bent rod because of this process. I'm talking about the 33:05 s section of the video.
At 5:12 - This piece does not fit as the holes don't line up on this side. They are about 10mm out from each other. What do I do now?
I have machine code A384520042 which is too small
we're you able to sort this out?
Yep, no thanks to non-existant tech support and Gearbest's total lack of after sales policy (they just wanted me to return it to China). I had to hack saw some parts off the main frame and drill a new hole. Didn't take too long, just put the rest of the printer together until you can see how it's supposed to line up. It's not the part itself that's wrong, they cut the end of the frame that it fits in about 10mm too far.
I had the same problem just try the other one flipped around, for me the orientation was wrong. Mine fit just fine after that
Yeah, I'm not an idiot, it did not fit no matter what. I had to drill out and cut an extra hole as the frame was machined 10mm to long.
Help! Two of the screws that attach the heat bed to the metal piece with the springs do not go in. What do I do?
Oscar Cheng same were the screws to small for the heated bed for you too? And if you found a solution please help
My screws are too small for the heated bed, ever find the solution?