Yes that’s definitely easier than how I was doing it, the rim does make it a lot easier. On the rears I used a rim also, it’s been that long I forgot about the bolts on the inside of the hub.
A good basic guide but only for an experienced mechanic who knows how it should be done. Follow this to your peril. 1 Do not just rely on a jack alone to support a vehicle, appropriate axle stands are a must. 2 don't jam a hub using a metal bar on the lug nut studs. If you cannot loosen flange nuts with wheel on the ground have someone apply the foot brake with wheel off. Failing that find a safer way by protecting your lug nut stud threads. No wonder wheels fall off vehicles at random. 3 loosen the lid of the brake fluid reservoir before manipulation of caliper pistons 4 use an appropriate tool to spread pistons, a pair of bare pliers is not a suitable tool. 5 not replacing a £5 hub seal is a fools economy in such a job. 6 Clean everything better, Red oxide merely highlights the poor attention to rust removal 7 Again new bolts is better unless your aware of vehicle mechanical history, reuse of old bolts risks shearing and always use torque settings as main guidance even with bearing adjustment combine recommended torque with experience of feel for rotation and play. 8 Might as well have put new OEM bearings in at the same time, extra £25 a corner and you know the job is a good one at the end. Good tip on using an old rim for reassembly of hub to disc.
1 I have a axle stand 2 my wheel studs are undamaged 3 brake fluid lid is the same on every car if you don't know to undo it you shouldn't be doing the job 4 nothing wrong with my tool 5 I don't need a hub seal it's still not leaking now and I did this years ago 6 no one has time to clean a old land rover, I could be cleaning off a car of more value haha 7 these bolts are fine, I replace when I need to but if I don't it's because they still work they are not stretch bolts and torque settings are for robots, my bolts don't snap or undo. Lad up the street is a idiot he needs torque settings haha 8 my bearings are fine Hasn't been on the road for a few years been used pulling dead cars around the land but will be on the road soon so lookout for flying bolts and wheels haha Video is for fun, but this is what you get at most garages so don't expect a rolls Royce service haha
Just a tip mate, I was told NEVER use pliers, or, single 'pressure' pointed tools to push pistons back in, as it pushes the pistons uneven and 'can' stuff the bore... Use a proper calliper tool🙂 great video nonetheless 🙂🙂🇦🇺
I have the tool, can't really put much force by hand. You wouldn't like to see the way I free one off with my hydraulic spreader haha thanks for the tip anyway
Why was it so hard to get the 1st nut loose when taking everything apart but when you put the nut back on at the end you didn't use much effort at all.. You actually went a little too tight and the hub wouldn't turn freely enough so you loosened the nut back up. Are there torque specs for these 2 nuts?
Not sure which one you’re talking about, but I know what you mean. This hadn’t been undone for years so everything is rusted and bolts and nuts are a lot harder to undo when rusted. I don’t use torque settings never had a problem and nothing has ever fallen off, I learnt to tighten the hub up then slacken back off so that’s how I do that.
The reason the bearing LOCK nut was so tight was because BOTH nuts.... The bearing adjustment nut and lock nut were turning at the same time. On replacement you should torque the bearing nut down according to manual specs then back it off about 1/4 turn. Also so so important is to clean off the Disc with brake cleaner. It will have a film of grease from the manufacturer. Personally for the price i would of dumped the calipers and bearings for new ones. I never saw you use Axel stands either,, naughty and so dangerous. please be more careful in future.
Kev Davis oh the bearing nut haha, that makes more sense, couldn’t think what he meant. Yeah maybe you should use the settings but I still have no play in my bearings my way works just fine. As I tightened it up then backed it off by feel. They is definitely a axel stand under there. My callipers are still working fine and bearings still have no play so why replace. They will probably get replaced in the future though. As and when they need too. Thanks for the advice and thanks for watching
Very nice video, one thing be very cRefull to avoid grease on the discs, it will not wear of, but soak in to the brakepad. Once greased in, just discarde them.
Just watched your video and I certainly would not trust you to do my wheel bearings on my defender. You should replace a new hub seal for a start. Also n no mention of tourqeing up the bearings propaly. And no mention of tourqe setting on the disce bolts you never even cleaned of the rust where the seal went over the stub axle all I hope is the seal and the bearings don’t pack up on you good luck with it
Well they are still on and not needed adjustment since they was done, tourqe settings are for robot's on something simple(I feel for the bearing for the right tension by feel). I use tourqe setting on head bolts only, I have no problems ever. But thanks for concern but it's not needed.
Having worked on trucks and buses, we always tightened up the bearings until they dragged a bit, then backed them off slightly. One load is on the axles they could loosen off more than you think they would.
Enjoyed watching that got my discs and pads today.get them on tommoro great step through video
Thank you. Let me know how it goes.
@@m111kca4 will do my friend
Thanks, it gives me the idea of how to remove them.
Glad it did, thanks for comments
I understand, yes I did. i just saw someone put the hub inside the rim and they used a breaker bar to remove the bolts..
Yes that’s definitely easier than how I was doing it, the rim does make it a lot easier. On the rears I used a rim also, it’s been that long I forgot about the bolts on the inside of the hub.
A good basic guide but only for an experienced mechanic who knows how it should be done. Follow this to your peril.
1 Do not just rely on a jack alone to support a vehicle, appropriate axle stands are a must.
2 don't jam a hub using a metal bar on the lug nut studs. If you cannot loosen flange nuts with wheel on the ground have someone apply the foot brake with wheel off. Failing that find a safer way by protecting your lug nut stud threads. No wonder wheels fall off vehicles at random.
3 loosen the lid of the brake fluid reservoir before manipulation of caliper pistons
4 use an appropriate tool to spread pistons, a pair of bare pliers is not a suitable tool.
5 not replacing a £5 hub seal is a fools economy in such a job.
6 Clean everything better, Red oxide merely highlights the poor attention to rust removal
7 Again new bolts is better unless your aware of vehicle mechanical history, reuse of old bolts risks shearing and always use torque settings as main guidance even with bearing adjustment combine recommended torque with experience of feel for rotation and play.
8 Might as well have put new OEM bearings in at the same time, extra £25 a corner and you know the job is a good one at the end.
Good tip on using an old rim for reassembly of hub to disc.
1 I have a axle stand
2 my wheel studs are undamaged
3 brake fluid lid is the same on every car if you don't know to undo it you shouldn't be doing the job
4 nothing wrong with my tool
5 I don't need a hub seal it's still not leaking now and I did this years ago
6 no one has time to clean a old land rover, I could be cleaning off a car of more value haha
7 these bolts are fine, I replace when I need to but if I don't it's because they still work they are not stretch bolts and torque settings are for robots, my bolts don't snap or undo. Lad up the street is a idiot he needs torque settings haha
8 my bearings are fine
Hasn't been on the road for a few years been used pulling dead cars around the land but will be on the road soon so lookout for flying bolts and wheels haha
Video is for fun, but this is what you get at most garages so don't expect a rolls Royce service haha
Just a tip mate, I was told NEVER use pliers, or, single 'pressure' pointed tools to push pistons back in, as it pushes the pistons uneven and 'can' stuff the bore...
Use a proper calliper tool🙂 great video nonetheless 🙂🙂🇦🇺
I have the tool, can't really put much force by hand. You wouldn't like to see the way I free one off with my hydraulic spreader haha thanks for the tip anyway
Good stuff, very informative. I'm going to do my pads and rotors in about a week and your video is very helpful.
Thanks, hope everything goes well for you while doing your brakes.
Why was it so hard to get the 1st nut loose when taking everything apart but when you put the nut back on at the end you didn't use much effort at all.. You actually went a little too tight and the hub wouldn't turn freely enough so you loosened the nut back up. Are there torque specs for these 2 nuts?
Not sure which one you’re talking about, but I know what you mean. This hadn’t been undone for years so everything is rusted and bolts and nuts are a lot harder to undo when rusted. I don’t use torque settings never had a problem and nothing has ever fallen off, I learnt to tighten the hub up then slacken back off so that’s how I do that.
The reason the bearing LOCK nut was so tight was because BOTH nuts.... The bearing adjustment nut and lock nut were turning at the same time. On replacement you should torque the bearing nut down according to manual specs then back it off about 1/4 turn. Also so so important is to clean off the Disc with brake cleaner. It will have a film of grease from the manufacturer. Personally for the price i would of dumped the calipers and bearings for new ones.
I never saw you use Axel stands either,, naughty and so dangerous. please be more careful in future.
Kev Davis oh the bearing nut haha, that makes more sense, couldn’t think what he meant. Yeah maybe you should use the settings but I still have no play in my bearings my way works just fine. As I tightened it up then backed it off by feel. They is definitely a axel stand under there. My callipers are still working fine and bearings still have no play so why replace. They will probably get replaced in the future though. As and when they need too. Thanks for the advice and thanks for watching
great great great thanks for sharing
thanks
great vid! really helped
thanks
Very nice video, one thing be very cRefull to avoid grease on the discs, it will not wear of, but soak in to the brakepad. Once greased in, just discarde them.
Still working fine, thanks
Best brake video.
But I can't place your accent.
United Kingdom, North Wales. Thanks
Came here for this comment, mate. I was fascinated. Sounded North East, then North West, then North American! An impressive range! 😁
Just watched your video and I certainly would not trust you to do my wheel bearings on my defender. You should replace a new hub seal for a start. Also n no mention of tourqeing up the bearings propaly. And no mention of tourqe setting on the disce bolts you never even cleaned of the rust where the seal went over the stub axle all I hope is the seal and the bearings don’t pack up on you good luck with it
Well they are still on and not needed adjustment since they was done, tourqe settings are for robot's on something simple(I feel for the bearing for the right tension by feel). I use tourqe setting on head bolts only, I have no problems ever. But thanks for concern but it's not needed.
Oh also my seal is still working fine.
Having worked on trucks and buses, we always tightened up the bearings until they dragged a bit, then backed them off slightly. One load is on the axles they could loosen off more than you think they would.