I'm still amazed you have the the patience to do all the different types of setups for individual projects in such a small workshop, i'd think i'd go nuts to be honest.Great work as usual, that spray gun looks the job alright.
Hi Peter. Another nice video. For smaller panel I use a rotating table, just bulit out of materials around the workshop. Saves picking it up half way through the process.....
Thanks Ian! Yeah, I’ve seen a few guys using an old office chair with the back removed, works really well. Space as ever, is my issue - there just isn’t the bench depth to spin even a small door around! 🤔👍👍
Excellent. Would like to add one tip. When you are spraying the doors at the end you are spraying at an angle to the flat finish. Experience and all pro tip reading tells me that you want the fan to be as perpendicular to the surface as possible for even coverage. I get doing the edges that way, but then you want to move directly above the piece so the coating is even. The Graco makes that much easier than HVLP because it can be sprayed in any position. Having a lower support on a lazy Susan would make staying directly above the piece easier.
I really have to say I’m in absolute awe watching this. The finish looks great in the room, can we have more on that please? Doors are looking great so the experiment if I can call it that looks to be paying off. Well impressed. Regards Mike
Cheers Mike! There’s more of the final finish in the conclusion of the ‘big job’ series, but yes, very happy with what I achieved around the half-way mark in this job. 👍👍
You make it look like fun. But one should point out that the real work is in the prep not the painting. I mean who masks off ceilings? However if you are willing to go to that extent and to be very meticulous about covering everything then the results will look very professional
When you removed the masking from the base of the ceiling moulding after the green, did any of the fresh white come away? Always seems to happen to me and then having to touch up with a tiny brush... Right nuisance!
Happened a couple of times; after that I used Tesa Pink (delicate) tape and it was much better. When I used ‘tape & drape’ I’d apply some pink tape first - makes a big difference 👍👍
Hey Peter. I’m about to pull the trigger (pardon the pun), on an ultra max. I’m just doing the usual two months of research. I truly appreciate all the effort you’ve made in making this extended review series. Subscribed
Hi John, and thanks! The Graco cordless guns are great for a lot of things, but they’re not subtle - they throw out a lot of paint - and they’re not for someone who does spraying as an extended part of their business. Even with my fairly modest amount of spraying I had a pump failure after about 8 months. Replace under warranty (took 3 weeks!) but it was a reminder that they’re not full-on production workhorses. If you need to be spraying daily, I’d advise you to look into another system. 👍👍
I watched a few RUclips videos and they mentioned these style spray guns should not be used for big walls. Because was looking forward to purchasing one to speed up my productivity
The issue is that they're relatively small units, so while they - clearly - work well on walls, it's not the kind of thing you should be doing with them day in, day out. After the pump failed on mine for the second time, I'm afraid I wouldn't recommend them.
When I saw the thumbnail for this video I thought that green color looked familiar. Sure enough the first project I recently completely with my handheld HLVP sprayer was done with Benjamin Moore Advance paint in a color from the same family as this one. What I made was piece of furniture my wife wanted. She saw me watching this and now wants a room painted in this kind of green...
I recently did an oak staircase with the graco ultra max spraying osmo oil and final coat of lacquer . Had the same problem (orange peel/ speckled ) finish. Even on low setting and using low pressure tip. Always used lint free cloths to apply stains and oils which leaves a perfect finish ! I’ll be doing future staircases by hand in the future ! Ha
You can build yourself and small wind tunnel to help dry your paint work using plastic sheets and a foldable frame (for easy storage), a low RPM fan and a HEPA filter. Two advantages: faster drying time and zero dust settling.
Good stuff, thanks. We have had painters here recently painting the outside of the house. I was expecting them to spray the stucco, but they said spraying doesn't provide as good adhesion (as rolling or brushing). That may also relate to the earlier comment about "back rolling" although I get your point about losing some of the gloss. Cheers, David
I'm sure you are aware what to do already. When I sprayed my kitchen doors I made a drying cabinet. It was just a lot of shelves with a plastic sheet and door system cover. It was to prevent the dust from the next spray job settling.
It's good to see your work, it's inspiring. I scanned many comments below, but nobody asked what tip you were using nor the pressure/speed setting. Please advise. Cheers. Jim/Maryland
Hi ! I saw your green door cabinet high glossy. Can you tell a bit about detail ? and how you make it to become high glossy ? What do you use ? Have a nice day! Thank so much.
As mentioned in the video, it's a Benjamin Moore Advanced high gloss water-based paint, in Deep Green. Tinted primer/undercoat and three topcoats, de-nibbed in between with a P500 Abralon. Watch the whole series for all the information.
I bought the Truecoat 360 (the baby of the series), and that bad boy is still a beast! Took me 30 mins to paint my basement walls. The prep time is the only thing that's long, but once that's done your work time is pretty fast. The only con to these airless sprayers is that you have to refill the paint a lot, but it's still worth buying. Especially if you using rollers and brushes like I do.
Thanks! Why walls first, out of interest? Walls were gloss, so my thinking was there’s more chance of marking the finish masking off if I did the walls first, but always happy to learn of a better approach. 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop I have been professionally painting for about 15 years. I am pretty passionate about it, i mean I'm watching painting videos on my free time after all. Anyways, i sprayed using both methods and find spraying walls first and then ceilings is much easier. It is much easier because you can just run tape on the wall at the ceiling line all the way around the room and then tuck plastic under the tape and drape the room. As i am tucking the plastic i press the tape down firmly and usually blade the edge down with a small putty knife to get that razor sharp tape line as well as prevent bleeding. I find it much easier to tape to the wall than to the ceiling, and also gravity is working in my favor with the plastic. If I'm doing a 100% spray job i usually shoot the trim, mask it off, shoot the walls and then shoot the ceiling last. Really like this series!!
Fab illustration of the time efficiency of a sprayer. That’s a qualified efficiency though - prep takes a long time but, the finish (where it matters) is very good indeed. I live in the US and the distinct t-t-t of airless sprayers has joined the vexing sound of leaf blowers as a sound of summer. My house was painted outside a couple of years ago and the guy took a day to prep and cover but 1/2 day to paint each coat. Have you seen videos from Idaho Painter?
Beautiful looking doors. I encountered the orange peel effect on a job once, after 3 coats not much improvement.In desperation I lightly cut it back with T Cut, great glossy finish in the end.
Hi Peter, what tip are you using for the walls ? And what size for the panel? I have a graco - still in early learning mode though but have found it fantastic, just trying to find the best tips and create less overspray Thanks
Hi Rob. Still pretty early along this journey myself, but I used the 310 and 410 for pretty much everything; a few folks recommended the 517 for emulsion on walls, but I couldn’t get hold of one in time and I had a few issues with the 514 that came with the gun, so I just stuck with the 310 for most things, and it worked really well; it’s the 310 I’m using in this video for everything. If you’ve watched the previous videos in this series you’ll know that overspray has been a constant issue for me, and I think I’ve resolved why I was getting it so badly. I go into a bit more detail about this later in the series, but in brief, when you clean the gun down, take off the tip assembly and have a look inside; it should be squeaky clean, apart from a little bit of paint right in the centre of the seal. If there’s paint anywhere around the inside of the tip, or around the threads, then it’s not sealing properly, and that’s likely the cause of the overspray - it was with mine. I changed the seal (you get a spare one with every new tip) and it’s made a big difference to me. 👍 HTH Peter.
Peter a few tips for you. When you spray the tip should be 90 degrees to your work. If its say 45 degree the top or bottom which ever is closer to the work will be wetter and you will shoot more paint onto the work piece. Also you have to keep your hand traveling in a flat line while the gun is spraying other wise the paint you shoot at each end of your arc of travel will be drier than the center of the arc. One other thing to try and help. You didn't show it but usually when you spray walls you should back roll the paint to keep it even on the surface.
it means going over the sprayed wall with a roller after spraying the wall ….. and I would also agree with the spraying flat to the work piece to get a even coat on it all... and as said before that machine is not meant for spraying walls and ceilings just the odd door and touch-ups work.. great video mate as always
Appreciate the advice, but spraying the wall, then rollering it? In a high gloss finish? Umm no thanks! Also Arran, you keep saying it’s not suitable for spraying rooms, just the odd door, but I know more than a few painters who use it for exactly that. 👍👍
Peter, I agree with Greg. I only use my Graco hand held for shooting trim, crown and doors. And coincidently I only shoot Bejamin Moore Advance. I also use the 790 Advance primer too. Don't love the wait times but I love the finish. I don't spray walls, I roll instead but if I did I would use a 517 tip. It looked like you were using a 310. And finally! Something other than white!
Yes, something very 'other' than white 😂. Couple of guys I know recommended a 517 for emulsion/primer/undercoat but I couldn't get hold of one in time when I was doing this; tried the 514 that came with the gun and had a few issues, 410, 310, 208 all worked consistently well with the paint To clarify, you'd use a 517 for gloss, or just the primer/undercoat? And if you were rollering the walls in gloss, could you get a comparable finish to the sprayed cabinetry? Just curious as to best working practices, thanks 👍
Cheers for the series Peter. nearly makes me want to do away with my HVLP set. Nearly but not quite, excluding the running compressor I can't see to much of an advantage, still got to deal with overspray and clean up is still a pain in the backside, especially with oil based stuff.
Did you get one? The cordless model Peter has is $800 here in the US. A corded model, the True Coat 360 vsp, which can't spray oil based finishes, which is OK with me, is around $250-$280. That's a $500 difference. I'd rather not have to thin latex paint to spray it but my cheap spray gun does a decent job with thinned latex. Except for a table saw and miter saw I definitely prefer cordless power tools.
I should clarify. I just realized the cordless comes in the Ultra and the Ultra Max, which sprays flammables, etc... The Ultra, for water based, is around $580 here in the US. That's a bit easier to swallow.
Hi. So I'm interested getting one to. Apparently this are to be used for only 100L of paint before you have to change the pump.... did you had any problems with the pump? Have you changed it by now since you have been using the sprayer? Thanks
Yes. If you watch the ‘spraying adventures’ playlist the pump does under warranty, and then again about 6 months later after minimal use. I don’t recommend this sprayer unfortunately.
What about adding/spraying a couple of coats of water based clear coat on top of the paint then polishing that? You can achieve a glass-like finish. It will also give it more depth. More work but the results and long-term durability could be worth it.
Hi there enjoy your videos. When you taped up the ceilings and sprayed the green walls did the wall colour bleed through to the ceiling when you removed the tape and plastic and if it did did you touch up the ceiling with a brush
Hi Peter that looked like a lovely finish on those doors, is that benjamin moore paint waterbased or oil based 16 hrs for waterbased , it must be oil right? and i noticed you did not stir the paint that was in the graco pot, does it not need stirring, does the graco mix it as its working,? could you get a quality finish with a waterbased cheaper paint??? what paint could you recommend that is cheaper than benjamin moore where you could get a similar finish for less money.... love the vids keep em going P.S have you tried toupret wood filler i have heard very good reports about it from a pro decorator,,,,,,,,sorry if too many questions regards kevin
Hi Kevin, and thanks! No, Benjamin More Advanced is water-based (I only use water-based paints, have done for about 10 years) first time I’ve used it, couldn’t believe the 16 hr recoat time, lol! Apparently it an water-based paint with the characteristics of an oil-based - who asked for that?? Anyhoo, it is what it is and the gloss finish is fantastic. And no, all paints were stirred, I just didn’t show it on camera. In the series I use (water-based) paints from all the usual suppliers - Leyland, Dulux, Johnstones, Farrow & Ball and Tikkurila, in emulsion, eggshell, gloss and, primer. All handled equally well, without any real issues, straight from the can without thinning. So yes, well impressed with the finish from the Graco 👍👍 Oh, and yes, big fan of Toupret fillers generally 👌
Peter Millard I’ve been told by BM rep that the paint is formulated with oil chemicals surrounded with water base paint that’s why when you add water it can change the formula of the paint and change the colour slightly , and that’s why they call the advance paint hybrid
Love keeping up with this series Peter - you're certainly making huge progress! Awesome to see the kit being put to good use - keep it up. We wouldn't mind writing up a bit of a case study on your experience with the Graco Ultra Max after you've completed 'Playing at Spraying,' let me know your thoughts! Cheers, Jacob from Australia
I never got close to running them flat. Longest I sprayed continuously was 40-50minutes to do a whole room, and used 1 bar of battery. Apparently they don’t like getting down to one bar left, so I just charged them after each session 👍👍
Great series of videos Peter, I thought orange peel texture was the look these days :) . How did your shoes cope, were you coming out with a green tread. I used to have an old pair of Dunlop volleys that I used to wear only for spraying but they fell apart and I have just been wearing my jogger style steel caps, but find I have to take them off and let the paint dry on the soles after spraying otherwise I track everywhere. A few days ago I bought some shoe protectors, cloth overshoes, but have not had a chance to try them out yet, but hopefully they will fix that.
Thanks Bob! Oh yeah, shoes! Completely ruined a couple of pairs, one green the other white! They’re now my ‘spraying shoes’ - they go really well with my ‘spraying work pants’ and ‘spraying shirt’ - it’s a great look, really sharp 😂👍👍
Thanks! I’ve been using a FFLP 310 for most things without any problems; used a 410 for some larger areas, and have a 208 for fine details, but >90% use the 310 👍👍
The green paint was a Benjamin Moore advanced gloss, the white was Tikkurila Helmi 10, all water-based. Sorry, don’t know what a ‘latex enamel’ is! We probably call it something else here in the UK 👍👍
Cheers Graham. No runs on the primer/undercoat, but did get a few on the upright surfaces with the first coat of BMA gloss; rubbed it back and laid it a bit thinner after that, with no issues. Always learning, usually by doing... 👍😂
Hi Peter, Just want to say how much I enjoy your videos, good work indeed. Just wondered why the client has requested spray paint in a house!!? As a professional decorator this is alien to me (and a little crazy). The spray will always 'group' in certain areas (the hinges on the door for instance) and the sheer set up time/clean up involved (tapes, sheets etc ) will mean the speed of the sprayer is nul and void when compared to conventional decorating. Also the airborne spray will be difficult to contain regardless of the quality of the equipment or the skill of the person operating it? This isn't a critism, I'm just interested in the thinking behind it all?
Hi John, and thanks! Client spec was for a sprayed finish on all internal cabinetry, with the same finish (gloss) on the walls. Best option was to spray everything. Spraying the ceiling with all the cornice etc... was a massive time-saver, despite the masking. 👍👍
How much of a time saving is made when you consider all the masking up and other preparation? I reckon most of the time spent is on masking with spraying actually no time at all in comparison. Good finish BTW.
This was the first time I’ve masked anything up, so I was particularly... thorough. The more I do, the faster I’d expect to be. The ceiling though, that would be a solid job with a brush & roller, so even with the masking off there’s a time-saving 👍
When I spray wall I use 50cm masking film on the ceilings which is more than adequate and takes less time than cutting in with a brush. On top of which I only have to mask once, cutting in I'd have to do at least twice. One thing I always do that adds a little time is back roll all my spraying. If you don't back roll you can't touch up the walls later. A light roll with a short nap roller fixes that problem. It also evens out your coat which is needed, especially on walls with a natural light source shining down it or darker paint colours. Plus, takes away any concerns about spits. Nothing worse than perfectly spraying a wall to get a random spit half way through. A little roll fixes all that. One thing you absolutely need to do is use decent low tack masking tape. I used something new this past week to mask an immaculate ceiling that had dried for a week and when I took the tape off it pulled off the paint in parts. %&~$ing nightmare!
Hi Steve just wondering. When you backroll the walls once you have sprayed them, have you loaded the roller with paint? If yes how much paint is on the roller? Please explain how you do this.
How was the orange peel after the second coat with flattening out the first coat? Great series Peter. Been a great journey to see just how far you have come on RUclips. Glad we are getting a season two on the podcasts as well 👍🏻
Hi Peter have you checked out the cabinet door ‘sure hook’ system from rockler? Not sure of it’s availability here in uk but would enable you to spray both sides in one go, potentially halving your time
Thanks Ben. Not sure if it’s available here either, but not beyond the wit of man to make something similar, I’m sure. Does require you to have drilled the hinge pockets already though 👍
Not always possible, though. I’ve just done a few replacement kitchen cabinet doors that needed to be painted before fitting; I know where the hinge pockets *should* be, but couldn’t drill them for sure until I’d removed the old doors, on the day they were to be fitted 👍
Hi Peter, Love your vids! I bought a Graco Ultra max a little while ago and it didn't go well! Im not sure if i'm using the wrong paint or wrong tip or what. it just keeps blocking and spitting. What paint are you using for the white cabinetry? and what tip size are you using to spray it? Did you have to thin the paint down at all? Any advice would be much appreciated! and keep up the good work! :). Ben
Cheers Ben. I’m about as far removed from a spraying expert as you’ll find, but I’m happy to give an opinion, and maybe a proper expert will be along shortly 😂 I’ve only used water-based paints, just so’s you know, and almost all my spraying has been done with a 310 tip. I didn’t (but I should) strain the paint - this will help reduce blockages, and I haven’t thinned any paints at all - everything straight from the can. The only ‘spitting’ I’ve had is at the very first trigger-pull. I’ve used primers from Johnson’s, Leyland and Tikkurila, eggshell from Farrow& Ball and Tikkurila, emulsion from F&B, and gloss from Benjamin Moore. Only the F&B eggshell gave me problems, everything else has been excellent. Big fan of Tikkurila Helmi. HTH 👍👍
Graco have a few good videos about resolving common issues on their website - might be worth a look? It’s a great system when you get the kinks ironed out👍
Hi is that a water based paint? Have you tried oil based I've heard that you need a grounding wire because of static build up resulting in shocks? Have you experienced that?
I’ve been ‘water-based only’ for about 15 years, so no experience of putting oil-based through this, I’m sorry. One of the advantages of the Ultramax over the Ultra is that it has a brushless motor, so it can be used for flammable finishes, but it’s not something I do. Also, this is quite an old video; the pump has just gone on this Graco for the third time; it’s not getting replaced. 🤷♂️
I used the Graco for the last time time in February/March when it was playing up a bit. Lent it to a friend who needed to get a base coat on a large area and it conked out completely. 🤷♂️ And I’m pretty much done with spraying now - I’m not really doing any of that kind of work now, tbh, I may take a look at a cheap Aldi/Lidl hvlp cordless sprayer and see what they’re like for ~£60, but it’s not something I’ll be using for work. 👍👍
Quality job. Very impressed with the way you have gone about this. I bought a Wagner HVLP to spray all my flat brown cabinet doors white, and then add a lacquer followed by polishing with very fine paper to give them a mirror finish. I found the Wagner was spitting paint on the outer edges of the spray that cause me lots of problems and lost time. I think I will change to one of these. Do you think it will be good for spraying the gloss finish?
Thanks! I’ve used it for gloss and had a good finish, but I’m hesitant to recommend the Graco after mine died mid-job. Repair under warranty took almost 3 weeks, and while I think it’s a fantastic piece of kit, and perfect for the job I bought it to do, if I was spending ~£600 again purely for spraying within the workshop, I think I’d put it elsewhere, honestly.
You may want to do the walls first, than the ceiling, have gravity help your masking off. Also in NA there hangers that fit 35mm cup hinges, let think Rockler ships international. B
Thanks; yeah, first time out of the workshop with the Graco, was just more comfortable spraying the white first 😉 And yes, the tickler door hangers are neat, though a bit pricey to ship over here; pretty sure I can make something similar though 👍👍
Peter Millard fantastic! I’d never use another paint. Water based for kitchen cabinets is almost one coat (with brush) not tried a lot with my Graco - yet. Colours are beautiful, paint runs lovely and settles beautifully. It really shows up how bad the shed’s paints are. Even Dulux and Crown etc. BM is expensive - but worth it!
No thinning at all,, and I don’t generally strain the paint since I switched to a/ better quality paint and b/ using a 100 mesh filter between he cup & the gun 👍👍
Peter Millard brilliant , I’m thinking of getting one for painting trim , I’ll use the 100 mesh filter and a 310 tip , hopefully it will be clog free spraying. Thanks mate.
G'Day Mate What setting did you have the gun set at. I have one for spraying trim and doors, a bit of hit and miss wither spraying doors. It sometimes spits which buggers up the finish completely and I ha Ve to sand back ,undercoat and hope it doesn't happen again. What size tips are you using , any help appreciated Thankyou
Hiya. Gun's usually set to around #3 - any less and it gets a bit 'pulse-y' and more and I drown what I'm spraying. I use a 310 tip for pretty much everything. I've only ever had it spitting right at the start of spraying, so I aim off the workpiece at the start, where I can. HTH 👍
Nowhere near enough. It was used pretty intensely for a short period - though probably no more than 100-150 litres - and did the job it was bought to do, but longer term it was problematic and I stopped spraying.
@@10MinuteWorkshop I believe their is now a version 2 of the pump that has a carbide piston and sleeve and is supposed to last 3 times longer so maybe 300 to 500 Litres is now possible, I have the Ultra but I only have maybe 30 Litres used on mine at the moment, I'm about to paint my house again so I'll use it for wood and ceilings the house is 4500 Sq Ft so hopefully this pump will last then I'll try the V2 of the pump.
Peter Millard could I ask what brand of paint you use on cabinets/ walls ceilings?? I’ve been looking at tikkurila farrow & ball and possibly valspar but not sure if that would be hard wearing enough on woodwork
@@paulcunningham6300 All the cabinetry on this job was done in Tikkurila Helmi colour-matched to Farrow & Ball; the green gloss is Benjamin Moore Advanced, the ceilings were Farrow & Ball estate emulsion. HTH P
These are great for very small jobs, but they fall short when doing a full room. Just rent an airless or buy a cheap airless (drill out the tips) and use an extension. You can buy or rent an extension for the sprayers that eliminates the need for spraying from a ladder. The 5 gallon bucket just can't be beat!
I am interested about the blockage. That should only take like 3 seconds to clear. The graco tips are reversible, you reverse the tip form it's handle and an spray a second, that should clear any blockage in the tip .
Thanks. I’ve owned the Graco since February, so not my first rodeo. Do you mean the terminal blockage I currently have?? It’s not a blockage in the tip - it’s blocked without the tip and tip guard attached. It’s internal - the gun’s been returned for repair, we’ll see what gives in due course. 👍
Hi there love your videos,I use Benny Moore paints and you can get two coats on in a day no problem. If you need any advice give Craig,Helen or Ian a ring at Shaw Paints and they will give you any advice you need .
Hiya, and thanks! Yes, the guys at Shaw paints were very helpful; what paints were you using that you can get two coats on in one day? Not BM Advanced hi-gloss, 16hr recoat time 👍
I am a deccy mate and you can get two coats with BM advance gloss.Just get good air circulation. I have been using it for a couple of years and if need be you will get away with two coats in a day. One in the morning and one in the afternoon no problem.
Ah, OK. Yes - they're semi-disposable; perfect for keeping a colour or finish active for the duration of the job, and easy enough to clean if you choose - but also cheap enough to throw away without feeling guilty about it. 👍
hi peter wow thats a lot of green i am lucky enough to be irish and green is our colour but i don't think st patrick himself would have that much green 🙂 great job though and i guess even after taking the time to do the masking it is still quicker with the spray gun looking forward to seeing the final product we all will be green with envy ha ha 🤢🤢🤢🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂
I look forward to your videos advising me on where I’m going wrong Marty. If you’re not aware, this 8-part series documents me going from spraying novice to mildly competent over the course of 5 months. This is about the halfway point. 👍👍
I haven't yet done any videos, Peter, but knowing you I'm pretty certain you'll catch onto the main techniques very quickly. I'll follow along on your journey of learning... Again, thanks for sharing your knowledge and experiences with us, through your videos.
I have a client who is also a designer and she decided on high-gloss Hunter green from Fine Paints of Europe. It requires a similar set-up time (65% solids), but ended up being much longer before it could be sanded foor the second coat. In the end finishing costs were $7500 USD for spraying 23 boxes and doors. Aye! Never again!
Eye of the beholder. I rather liked the finished colour - as mentioned in the vid, the mint green is just the primer - but it really doesn’t matter what we like, does it? We’re not the client. 🤷♂️👍
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I'm still amazed you have the the patience to do all the different types of setups for individual projects in such a small workshop, i'd think i'd go nuts to be honest.Great work as usual, that spray gun looks the job alright.
Thanks! I find I can apply myself quite well, when being adequately compensated for my time 😂 And yes, absolutely the right sprayer for the job 👍👍
Hi Peter. Another nice video. For smaller panel I use a rotating table, just bulit out of materials around the workshop. Saves picking it up half way through the process.....
Thanks Ian! Yeah, I’ve seen a few guys using an old office chair with the back removed, works really well. Space as ever, is my issue - there just isn’t the bench depth to spin even a small door around! 🤔👍👍
Excellent. Would like to add one tip. When you are spraying the doors at the end you are spraying at an angle to the flat finish. Experience and all pro tip reading tells me that you want the fan to be as perpendicular to the surface as possible for even coverage. I get doing the edges that way, but then you want to move directly above the piece so the coating is even. The Graco makes that much easier than HVLP because it can be sprayed in any position. Having a lower support on a lazy Susan would make staying directly above the piece easier.
I really have to say I’m in absolute awe watching this. The finish looks great in the room, can we have more on that please? Doors are looking great so the experiment if I can call it that looks to be paying off. Well impressed. Regards Mike
Cheers Mike! There’s more of the final finish in the conclusion of the ‘big job’ series, but yes, very happy with what I achieved around the half-way mark in this job. 👍👍
You make it look like fun. But one should point out that the real work is in the prep not the painting. I mean who masks off ceilings? However if you are willing to go to that extent and to be very meticulous about covering everything then the results will look very professional
When you removed the masking from the base of the ceiling moulding after the green, did any of the fresh white come away? Always seems to happen to me and then having to touch up with a tiny brush... Right nuisance!
Happened a couple of times; after that I used Tesa Pink (delicate) tape and it was much better. When I used ‘tape & drape’ I’d apply some pink tape first - makes a big difference 👍👍
Peter you are the man
🤔👍👍😆
Hey Peter. I’m about to pull the trigger (pardon the pun), on an ultra max. I’m just doing the usual two months of research. I truly appreciate all the effort you’ve made in making this extended review series. Subscribed
Hi John, and thanks! The Graco cordless guns are great for a lot of things, but they’re not subtle - they throw out a lot of paint - and they’re not for someone who does spraying as an extended part of their business. Even with my fairly modest amount of spraying I had a pump failure after about 8 months. Replace under warranty (took 3 weeks!) but it was a reminder that they’re not full-on production workhorses. If you need to be spraying daily, I’d advise you to look into another system. 👍👍
looking like a great job as always, now to find that acrylic based substitute that delivers the same result! very educational peter, keep em coming ..
Thanks! 👍 The tinted Leyland acrylic primer/undercoat used here is pretty good 👍
I watched a few RUclips videos and they mentioned these style spray guns should not be used for big walls.
Because was looking forward to purchasing one to speed up my productivity
The issue is that they're relatively small units, so while they - clearly - work well on walls, it's not the kind of thing you should be doing with them day in, day out. After the pump failed on mine for the second time, I'm afraid I wouldn't recommend them.
@@10MinuteWorkshop good advice mate,I thank you for your honesty and integrity
That certainly is very green indeed...
That's phenomenal, a gob smacking 16 hours, wow!
Good work, thanks for sharing, mate 👍
It very very green
Stephen Rowley yes, yes, very very very green.... 😂
Cheers Bill. It is indeed, very green - but the finished job looks fantastic 👍👍
Peter Millard in the words of a very famous frog, "Green is nice" 😋😂
It is so green that my tears want to cry themselves. But quite apart from the colour, the finish is very impressive.
When I saw the thumbnail for this video I thought that green color looked familiar. Sure enough the first project I recently completely with my handheld HLVP sprayer was done with Benjamin Moore Advance paint in a color from the same family as this one. What I made was piece of furniture my wife wanted. She saw me watching this and now wants a room painted in this kind of green...
It’s a great colour, right up there between ‘bold’ and ‘brave’ 👍 👍
I recently did an oak staircase with the graco ultra max spraying osmo oil and final coat of lacquer . Had the same problem (orange peel/ speckled ) finish. Even on low setting and using low pressure tip. Always used lint free cloths to apply stains and oils which leaves a perfect finish ! I’ll be doing future staircases by hand in the future ! Ha
You can build yourself and small wind tunnel to help dry your paint work using plastic sheets and a foldable frame (for easy storage), a low RPM fan and a HEPA filter. Two advantages: faster drying time and zero dust settling.
👍
Good stuff, thanks. We have had painters here recently painting the outside of the house. I was expecting them to spray the stucco, but they said spraying doesn't provide as good adhesion (as rolling or brushing). That may also relate to the earlier comment about "back rolling" although I get your point about losing some of the gloss. Cheers, David
Cheers. I think exteriors are a different game altogether, tbh - I’ve certainly never sprayed any 👍
Pro painter here. Stucco- spray and backroll is the best of both worlds. Spraying gets the paint up there faster, backrolling works it in.
I'm sure you are aware what to do already.
When I sprayed my kitchen doors I made a drying cabinet. It was just a lot of shelves with a plastic sheet and door system cover. It was to prevent the dust from the next spray job settling.
Cheers Tim. This vid was shot a couple of months ago, drying rack in the other room now 👍
It's good to see your work, it's inspiring. I scanned many comments below, but nobody asked what tip you were using nor the pressure/speed setting. Please advise. Cheers. Jim/Maryland
I haven sprayed for years and no longer own this machine, so couldn't say I'm sorry.
Hi !
I saw your green door cabinet high glossy. Can you tell a bit about detail ?
and how you make it to become high glossy ? What do you use ?
Have a nice day!
Thank so much.
As mentioned in the video, it's a Benjamin Moore Advanced high gloss water-based paint, in Deep Green. Tinted primer/undercoat and three topcoats, de-nibbed in between with a P500 Abralon. Watch the whole series for all the information.
I bought the Truecoat 360 (the baby of the series), and that bad boy is still a beast! Took me 30 mins to paint my basement walls. The prep time is the only thing that's long, but once that's done your work time is pretty fast. The only con to these airless sprayers is that you have to refill the paint a lot, but it's still worth buying. Especially if you using rollers and brushes like I do.
Unfortunately my Graco died - pump, again - so it won’t be getting another. 🤷♂️
@@10MinuteWorkshop that's because you do a whole lot of painting sir 😁
Did you thin out the paint? And did you use any additives to smooth it out? i.e. Flowtrol? Your shop must be covered in overspray.
Loving this series, only thing I'd change would be to spray walls first then ceiling.
Thanks! Why walls first, out of interest? Walls were gloss, so my thinking was there’s more chance of marking the finish masking off if I did the walls first, but always happy to learn of a better approach. 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop
I have been professionally painting for about 15 years. I am pretty passionate about it, i mean I'm watching painting videos on my free time after all. Anyways, i sprayed using both methods and find spraying walls first and then ceilings is much easier. It is much easier because you can just run tape on the wall at the ceiling line all the way around the room and then tuck plastic under the tape and drape the room. As i am tucking the plastic i press the tape down firmly and usually blade the edge down with a small putty knife to get that razor sharp tape line as well as prevent bleeding.
I find it much easier to tape to the wall than to the ceiling, and also gravity is working in my favor with the plastic.
If I'm doing a 100% spray job i usually shoot the trim, mask it off, shoot the walls and then shoot the ceiling last.
Really like this series!!
@@mm-xk7pg that makes a lot of sense. Out of interest, what if you were doing brush and roller. (And how about with a picture rail?)
Fab illustration of the time efficiency of a sprayer. That’s a qualified efficiency though - prep takes a long time but, the finish (where it matters) is very good indeed.
I live in the US and the distinct t-t-t of airless sprayers has joined the vexing sound of leaf blowers as a sound of summer. My house was painted outside a couple of years ago and the guy took a day to prep and cover but 1/2 day to paint each coat.
Have you seen videos from Idaho Painter?
Cheers Frank. Yes, Idaho Painter and Finish Carpentry are both in my watch list 👍
Hi Peter, Not sure if you mentioned it in the video but what material were the doors? MDF? did you have to seal them or paint straight on?
The cabinet doors? Primer/undercoat, then painted. De-nib between coats. Never used MDF sealer, never saw the need 👍👍
The finish is incredible, just like a 3d drawing.
Thanks! It was absolutely fantastic - so impressed, especially on the cornice 👍
Great job Peter 👍👍👍 You 'almost' look like you're a professional...…………………………..🤣🤣🤣 Looking forward to seeing the job completed 😎
Thanks! 😂 Almost 😆😎👍
Youll always get a slight orange peel with airless. Try an aircoat or hvlp. Factory results
Beautiful looking doors. I encountered the orange peel effect on a job once, after 3 coats not much improvement.In desperation I lightly cut it back with T Cut, great glossy finish in the end.
Cheers Clive, nice idea 👍 These were pretty good in the end - we see them in the final ‘install’ video of the ‘Big Job’ series. 👍👍
Hi Peter, what tip are you using for the walls ? And what size for the panel? I have a graco - still in early learning mode though but have found it fantastic, just trying to find the best tips and create less overspray
Thanks
Hi Rob. Still pretty early along this journey myself, but I used the 310 and 410 for pretty much everything; a few folks recommended the 517 for emulsion on walls, but I couldn’t get hold of one in time and I had a few issues with the 514 that came with the gun, so I just stuck with the 310 for most things, and it worked really well; it’s the 310 I’m using in this video for everything. If you’ve watched the previous videos in this series you’ll know that overspray has been a constant issue for me, and I think I’ve resolved why I was getting it so badly.
I go into a bit more detail about this later in the series, but in brief, when you clean the gun down, take off the tip assembly and have a look inside; it should be squeaky clean, apart from a little bit of paint right in the centre of the seal. If there’s paint anywhere around the inside of the tip, or around the threads, then it’s not sealing properly, and that’s likely the cause of the overspray - it was with mine. I changed the seal (you get a spare one with every new tip) and it’s made a big difference to me. 👍 HTH Peter.
Peter a few tips for you. When you spray the tip should be 90 degrees to your work. If its say 45 degree the top or bottom which ever is closer to the work will be wetter and you will shoot more paint onto the work piece. Also you have to keep your hand traveling in a flat line while the gun is spraying other wise the paint you shoot at each end of your arc of travel will be drier than the center of the arc. One other thing to try and help. You didn't show it but usually when you spray walls you should back roll the paint to keep it even on the surface.
Cheers Greg. Don’t know what you mean by ‘back roll the paint’??
it means going over the sprayed wall with a roller after spraying the wall ….. and I would also agree with the spraying flat to the work piece to get a even coat on it all... and as said before that machine is not meant for spraying walls and ceilings just the odd door and touch-ups work.. great video mate as always
Appreciate the advice, but spraying the wall, then rollering it? In a high gloss finish? Umm no thanks! Also Arran, you keep saying it’s not suitable for spraying rooms, just the odd door, but I know more than a few painters who use it for exactly that. 👍👍
Peter, I agree with Greg. I only use my Graco hand held for shooting trim, crown and doors. And coincidently I only shoot Bejamin Moore Advance. I also use the 790 Advance primer too. Don't love the wait times but I love the finish. I don't spray walls, I roll instead but if I did I would use a 517 tip. It looked like you were using a 310. And finally! Something other than white!
Yes, something very 'other' than white 😂. Couple of guys I know recommended a 517 for emulsion/primer/undercoat but I couldn't get hold of one in time when I was doing this; tried the 514 that came with the gun and had a few issues, 410, 310, 208 all worked consistently well with the paint
To clarify, you'd use a 517 for gloss, or just the primer/undercoat? And if you were rollering the walls in gloss, could you get a comparable finish to the sprayed cabinetry? Just curious as to best working practices, thanks 👍
Cheers for the series Peter. nearly makes me want to do away with my HVLP set. Nearly but not quite, excluding the running compressor I can't see to much of an advantage, still got to deal with overspray and clean up is still a pain in the backside, especially with oil based stuff.
Cheers David. Haven’t used oil-based at all, but cleanup with the Graco is very fast. We get to that in more detail later in the series 👍👍
But in airless you do not need to dilute the paint.
Definitely going to get one of these for my workshop Peter
I have the ‘conclusion’ vid coming in a few weeks... 👍
Did you get one?
The cordless model Peter has is $800 here in the US. A corded model, the True Coat 360 vsp, which can't spray oil based finishes, which is OK with me, is around $250-$280. That's a $500 difference.
I'd rather not have to thin latex paint to spray it but my cheap spray gun does a decent job with thinned latex.
Except for a table saw and miter saw I definitely prefer cordless power tools.
I should clarify. I just realized the cordless comes in the Ultra and the Ultra Max, which sprays flammables, etc... The Ultra, for water based, is around $580 here in the US. That's a bit easier to swallow.
Hi. So I'm interested getting one to. Apparently this are to be used for only 100L of paint before you have to change the pump.... did you had any problems with the pump? Have you changed it by now since you have been using the sprayer? Thanks
Yes. If you watch the ‘spraying adventures’ playlist the pump does under warranty, and then again about 6 months later after minimal use. I don’t recommend this sprayer unfortunately.
@@10MinuteWorkshop thanks, that's very helpful. I don't understand the hype do, it has a lot of publicity, or at least it's my impression 🤷♂️
What about adding/spraying a couple of coats of water based clear coat on top of the paint then polishing that? You can achieve a glass-like finish. It will also give it more depth. More work but the results and long-term durability could be worth it.
Hi there enjoy your videos.
When you taped up the ceilings and sprayed the green walls did the wall colour bleed through to the ceiling when you removed the tape and plastic and if it did did you touch up the ceiling with a brush
And one more question what speed did you use to spray the cabinet door was it full speed or around 6 or 7
No major bleeds, just the odd area where the edges of the cornice needed cleaning up a little. And yes, I touched that up with a brush. 👍👍
Thanks, btw! Vast majority of the spraying was done at around speed 3-4. Only ever had it up as high as 6-7 was when cleaning. 👍👍
Peter, looking really good (depending on your colour preference). Just out of interest what is the floor covering in the area that you are spraying?
Thanks! It’s a limed oak hardwood floor throughout 👍
Hi Peter that looked like a lovely finish on those doors, is that benjamin moore paint waterbased or oil based
16 hrs for waterbased , it must be oil right? and i noticed you did not stir the paint that was in the graco pot,
does it not need stirring, does the graco mix it as its working,?
could you get a quality finish with a waterbased cheaper paint??? what paint could you recommend that is cheaper than benjamin moore where you could get a similar finish for less money.... love the vids keep em going
P.S have you tried toupret wood filler i have heard very good reports about it from a pro decorator,,,,,,,,sorry if too many questions
regards kevin
Hi Kevin, and thanks! No, Benjamin More Advanced is water-based (I only use water-based paints, have done for about 10 years) first time I’ve used it, couldn’t believe the 16 hr recoat time, lol! Apparently it an water-based paint with the characteristics of an oil-based - who asked for that?? Anyhoo, it is what it is and the gloss finish is fantastic.
And no, all paints were stirred, I just didn’t show it on camera. In the series I use (water-based) paints from all the usual suppliers - Leyland, Dulux, Johnstones, Farrow & Ball and Tikkurila, in emulsion, eggshell, gloss and, primer. All handled equally well, without any real issues, straight from the can without thinning.
So yes, well impressed with the finish from the Graco 👍👍
Oh, and yes, big fan of Toupret fillers generally 👌
Peter Millard I’ve been told by BM rep that the paint is formulated with oil chemicals surrounded with water base paint that’s why when you add water it can change the formula of the paint and change the colour slightly , and that’s why they call the advance paint hybrid
Peter Millard
Hi peter,
I didn’t know you could spray farrow and ball. Good to know
Love keeping up with this series Peter - you're certainly making huge progress! Awesome to see the kit being put to good use - keep it up. We wouldn't mind writing up a bit of a case study on your experience with the Graco Ultra Max after you've completed 'Playing at Spraying,' let me know your thoughts! Cheers, Jacob from Australia
Thanks Jacob! And sure, happy to contribute whatever I can to a ‘case study’ 👍
That must have been a bit nerve racking using the graco indoors for the first time, looks a nice job though, thanks Peter.
Cheers Julian! Yes, it was - I checked and rechecked the masking many times 😯👍
That gun is a great piece of kit. How long does the battery last?
I never got close to running them flat. Longest I sprayed continuously was 40-50minutes to do a whole room, and used 1 bar of battery. Apparently they don’t like getting down to one bar left, so I just charged them after each session 👍👍
Great series of videos Peter, I thought orange peel texture was the look these days :) . How did your shoes cope, were you coming out with a green tread. I used to have an old pair of Dunlop volleys that I used to wear only for spraying but they fell apart and I have just been wearing my jogger style steel caps, but find I have to take them off and let the paint dry on the soles after spraying otherwise I track everywhere. A few days ago I bought some shoe protectors, cloth overshoes, but have not had a chance to try them out yet, but hopefully they will fix that.
Thanks Bob! Oh yeah, shoes! Completely ruined a couple of pairs, one green the other white! They’re now my ‘spraying shoes’ - they go really well with my ‘spraying work pants’ and ‘spraying shirt’ - it’s a great look, really sharp 😂👍👍
Hey great videos. You’ve probably mentioned it already but what tip are you using?
Thanks! I’ve been using a FFLP 310 for most things without any problems; used a 410 for some larger areas, and have a 208 for fine details, but >90% use the 310 👍👍
Great. Thank you. Is the paint a latex enamel?
The green paint was a Benjamin Moore advanced gloss, the white was Tikkurila Helmi 10, all water-based. Sorry, don’t know what a ‘latex enamel’ is! We probably call it something else here in the UK 👍👍
If you spray perpendicular to the surface with lower pressure the overspray is negligible with those things
im gonna get this paintgun
Wow, impressive Pete. Looking forward to the finished job. Did you get many/any runs? That gun seems to put a lot on. Or is that to follow?
Cheers Graham. No runs on the primer/undercoat, but did get a few on the upright surfaces with the first coat of BMA gloss; rubbed it back and laid it a bit thinner after that, with no issues. Always learning, usually by doing... 👍😂
Hi Peter,
Just want to say how much I enjoy your videos, good work indeed. Just wondered why the client has requested spray paint in a house!!? As a professional decorator this is alien to me (and a little crazy). The spray will always 'group' in certain areas (the hinges on the door for instance) and the sheer set up time/clean up involved (tapes, sheets etc ) will mean the speed of the sprayer is nul and void when compared to conventional decorating. Also the airborne spray will be difficult to contain regardless of the quality of the equipment or the skill of the person operating it? This isn't a critism, I'm just interested in the thinking behind it all?
Hi John, and thanks! Client spec was for a sprayed finish on all internal cabinetry, with the same finish (gloss) on the walls. Best option was to spray everything. Spraying the ceiling with all the cornice etc... was a massive time-saver, despite the masking. 👍👍
How much of a time saving is made when you consider all the masking up and other preparation? I reckon most of the time spent is on masking with spraying actually no time at all in comparison.
Good finish BTW.
This was the first time I’ve masked anything up, so I was particularly... thorough. The more I do, the faster I’d expect to be. The ceiling though, that would be a solid job with a brush & roller, so even with the masking off there’s a time-saving 👍
When I spray wall I use 50cm masking film on the ceilings which is more than adequate and takes less time than cutting in with a brush. On top of which I only have to mask once, cutting in I'd have to do at least twice.
One thing I always do that adds a little time is back roll all my spraying. If you don't back roll you can't touch up the walls later. A light roll with a short nap roller fixes that problem. It also evens out your coat which is needed, especially on walls with a natural light source shining down it or darker paint colours. Plus, takes away any concerns about spits. Nothing worse than perfectly spraying a wall to get a random spit half way through. A little roll fixes all that.
One thing you absolutely need to do is use decent low tack masking tape. I used something new this past week to mask an immaculate ceiling that had dried for a week and when I took the tape off it pulled off the paint in parts. %&~$ing nightmare!
Hi Steve just wondering. When you backroll the walls once you have sprayed them, have you loaded the roller with paint? If yes how much paint is on the roller? Please explain how you do this.
How was the orange peel after the second coat with flattening out the first coat? Great series Peter. Been a great journey to see just how far you have come on RUclips. Glad we are getting a season two on the podcasts as well 👍🏻
Cheers Sean. Orange-peel was very much reduced - you get to see it in the install 👍👍
Hi,
How much paint does it use per square meter ?
Thanks
Hi Peter have you checked out the cabinet door ‘sure hook’ system from rockler? Not sure of it’s availability here in uk but would enable you to spray both sides in one go, potentially halving your time
Thanks Ben. Not sure if it’s available here either, but not beyond the wit of man to make something similar, I’m sure. Does require you to have drilled the hinge pockets already though 👍
If you haven’t drilled the hinge hole yet screw a screw where you would drill hinge after
Not always possible, though. I’ve just done a few replacement kitchen cabinet doors that needed to be painted before fitting; I know where the hinge pockets *should* be, but couldn’t drill them for sure until I’d removed the old doors, on the day they were to be fitted 👍
Rockler do deliver to the UK on not bulky items
Hi Peter, Love your vids! I bought a Graco Ultra max a little while ago and it didn't go well! Im not sure if i'm using the wrong paint or wrong tip or what. it just keeps blocking and spitting. What paint are you using for the white cabinetry? and what tip size are you using to spray it? Did you have to thin the paint down at all? Any advice would be much appreciated! and keep up the good work! :). Ben
Cheers Ben. I’m about as far removed from a spraying expert as you’ll find, but I’m happy to give an opinion, and maybe a proper expert will be along shortly 😂 I’ve only used water-based paints, just so’s you know, and almost all my spraying has been done with a 310 tip. I didn’t (but I should) strain the paint - this will help reduce blockages, and I haven’t thinned any paints at all - everything straight from the can. The only ‘spitting’ I’ve had is at the very first trigger-pull. I’ve used primers from Johnson’s, Leyland and Tikkurila, eggshell from Farrow& Ball and Tikkurila, emulsion from F&B, and gloss from Benjamin Moore. Only the F&B eggshell gave me problems, everything else has been excellent. Big fan of Tikkurila Helmi. HTH 👍👍
Many Thanks for the reply Peter. I'l keep trying and experimenting with it! haha Keep up the good work! :)
Graco have a few good videos about resolving common issues on their website - might be worth a look? It’s a great system when you get the kinks ironed out👍
Did you thin the paint or is that straight from the tin?
Straight from the can - no thinning needed generally, with airless 👍
Hi is that a water based paint? Have you tried oil based I've heard that you need a grounding wire because of static build up resulting in shocks? Have you experienced that?
I’ve been ‘water-based only’ for about 15 years, so no experience of putting oil-based through this, I’m sorry. One of the advantages of the Ultramax over the Ultra is that it has a brushless motor, so it can be used for flammable finishes, but it’s not something I do. Also, this is quite an old video; the pump has just gone on this Graco for the third time; it’s not getting replaced. 🤷♂️
@@10MinuteWorkshop Sorry to hear the pump has gone again, what are you using now? Thanks for the reply too, I really enjoy your vids. 😃
I used the Graco for the last time time in February/March when it was playing up a bit. Lent it to a friend who needed to get a base coat on a large area and it conked out completely. 🤷♂️ And I’m pretty much done with spraying now - I’m not really doing any of that kind of work now, tbh, I may take a look at a cheap Aldi/Lidl hvlp cordless sprayer and see what they’re like for ~£60, but it’s not something I’ll be using for work. 👍👍
Quality job. Very impressed with the way you have gone about this.
I bought a Wagner HVLP to spray all my flat brown cabinet doors white, and then add a lacquer followed by polishing with very fine paper to give them a mirror finish. I found the Wagner was spitting paint on the outer edges of the spray that cause me lots of problems and lost time. I think I will change to one of these. Do you think it will be good for spraying the gloss finish?
Thanks! I’ve used it for gloss and had a good finish, but I’m hesitant to recommend the Graco after mine died mid-job. Repair under warranty took almost 3 weeks, and while I think it’s a fantastic piece of kit, and perfect for the job I bought it to do, if I was spending ~£600 again purely for spraying within the workshop, I think I’d put it elsewhere, honestly.
Super job as always. Also congrats on finishing your first 10 podcasts. Glad to hear you will continue with another series. Love listening to them.
Thanks Ken 👍👍
Hello, have you used this for oil based paints? If so what do you use to clean it with?
No, sorry, I've only used water-based paints for the last ~15 years or so. 👍
You may want to do the walls first, than the ceiling, have gravity help your masking off. Also in NA there hangers that fit 35mm cup hinges, let think Rockler ships international. B
Thanks; yeah, first time out of the workshop with the Graco, was just more comfortable spraying the white first 😉 And yes, the tickler door hangers are neat, though a bit pricey to ship over here; pretty sure I can make something similar though 👍👍
Brent - you don’t know what you are talking about. Ceilings first … always
Please tell me what are your settings? Thanks
Knowing everything you know now... would you recommend it? I'm thinking of buying.
No, absolutely not. Not without some kind of cast-iron guarantee on the pump, which they don’t give. 🤷♂️
@@10MinuteWorkshop it's not meant for full walls an ceilings that's why the pumps don't last its for doors an small areas
They good for cutting in rooms an roll the rest
Benjamin Moore paint is the only paint I use now. Been using it for a few years now.
Cheers Graham. 👍 Haven’t used anything other than the Advanced Gloss - how do you find the other finishes?
Peter Millard fantastic! I’d never use another paint. Water based for kitchen cabinets is almost one coat (with brush) not tried a lot with my Graco - yet. Colours are beautiful, paint runs lovely and settles beautifully.
It really shows up how bad the shed’s paints are. Even Dulux and Crown etc. BM is expensive - but worth it!
Great video and product
Thanks! 👍
Do you thin the paint at all ? Or strain it before use. ?
No thinning at all,, and I don’t generally strain the paint since I switched to a/ better quality paint and b/ using a 100 mesh filter between he cup & the gun 👍👍
Peter Millard brilliant , I’m thinking of getting one for painting trim , I’ll use the 100 mesh filter and a 310 tip , hopefully it will be clog free spraying. Thanks mate.
G'Day Mate
What setting did you have the gun set at. I have one for spraying trim and doors, a bit of hit and miss wither spraying doors. It sometimes spits which buggers up the finish completely and I ha Ve to sand back ,undercoat and hope it doesn't happen again.
What size tips are you using , any help appreciated
Thankyou
Hiya. Gun's usually set to around #3 - any less and it gets a bit 'pulse-y' and more and I drown what I'm spraying. I use a 310 tip for pretty much everything. I've only ever had it spitting right at the start of spraying, so I aim off the workpiece at the start, where I can. HTH 👍
Hello, what is the size of the tip you have used ? Thanks
Haven't sprayed for quite a while, but used a 310 for pretty much everything. 👍
How many Litres of paint did you get from the pump?.
Nowhere near enough. It was used pretty intensely for a short period - though probably no more than 100-150 litres - and did the job it was bought to do, but longer term it was problematic and I stopped spraying.
@@10MinuteWorkshop I believe their is now a version 2 of the pump that has a carbide piston and sleeve and is supposed to last 3 times longer so maybe 300 to 500 Litres is now possible, I have the Ultra but I only have maybe 30 Litres used on mine at the moment, I'm about to paint my house again so I'll use it for wood and ceilings the house is 4500 Sq Ft so hopefully this pump will last then I'll try the V2 of the pump.
Did that one episode of Mr. Bean pop up in your mind, when spraying that room green? 😉
😂 I was thinking more ‘Mission Impossible’ 🤔Must be my age 😆👍
Nice little tool but don’t expect too much of it. Mine died twice 😅
On my third pump. Pretty disappointed tbh. 🤷♂️
What paint are you using to paint walls and woodwork with the sa e paint please?
It's Benjamin Moore advanced gloss. Lovely paint, but takes forever to dry.
Gloss on walls?
Yep. “It’s like being inside an emerald...” #designers 🤷♂️
@@10MinuteWorkshop king's new clothes 😁
Is it all water based paints your using?
Yes, been 100% water-based for ~12-14 years. 👍
Peter Millard could I ask what brand of paint you use on cabinets/ walls ceilings?? I’ve been looking at tikkurila farrow & ball and possibly valspar but not sure if that would be hard wearing enough on woodwork
@@paulcunningham6300 All the cabinetry on this job was done in Tikkurila Helmi colour-matched to Farrow & Ball; the green gloss is Benjamin Moore Advanced, the ceilings were Farrow & Ball estate emulsion. HTH P
everyone using advanced should go try sherwin williams kem aqua for cabinets and such
Not available in the UK just FYI.
These are great for very small jobs, but they fall short when doing a full room. Just rent an airless or buy a cheap airless (drill out the tips) and use an extension. You can buy or rent an extension for the sprayers that eliminates the need for spraying from a ladder. The 5 gallon bucket just can't be beat!
I am interested about the blockage. That should only take like 3 seconds to clear. The graco tips are reversible, you reverse the tip form it's handle and an spray a second, that should clear any blockage in the tip .
Thanks. I’ve owned the Graco since February, so not my first rodeo. Do you mean the terminal blockage I currently have?? It’s not a blockage in the tip - it’s blocked without the tip and tip guard attached. It’s internal - the gun’s been returned for repair, we’ll see what gives in due course. 👍
what FFLP tip change did you do going from green wall to doing door panels? I just bought the ultramax and have yet to unbox.
I settled on a 310 for pretty much everything. Seemed to work for me. 👍👍
Painting a wall in 3 inch wide strips seems very painful
I’m sure it would be. That isn’t what I did here. 🤷♂️
@@10MinuteWorkshop
02:14 🤷♂️
Bloomin 'eck Peter. I've just bought a track saw. Now I want a paint sprayer. Please stop. (No, don't - only joking).
Sorry about that 😂👍 I'll be comparing the graco to much cheaper sprayers a bit later on 👍
Would be a whole lot easier just to use an actual airless sprayer for a job that size.
According to Graco, this was an ‘actual airless sprayer’. 🤷♂️
Hi there love your videos,I use Benny Moore paints and you can get two coats on in a day no problem.
If you need any advice give Craig,Helen or Ian a ring at Shaw Paints and they will give you any advice you need .
Hiya, and thanks! Yes, the guys at Shaw paints were very helpful; what paints were you using that you can get two coats on in one day? Not BM Advanced hi-gloss, 16hr recoat time 👍
I am a deccy mate and you can get two coats with BM advance gloss.Just get good air circulation.
I have been using it for a couple of years and if need be you will get away with two coats in a day.
One in the morning and one in the afternoon no problem.
The guys at Shaw paints told me 16hrs, didn't think to question it, lol! I'll have to try it 👍
Sounds sometimes like my electric hair cutter... good job brw greetings from Switzerland
😂👍 And thanks!
How long can a single "bag" last?
I don't spray anymore, but don't understand what you mean by 'bag' I'm sorry. 🤔
@@10MinuteWorkshop oh sorry i meant the flexible cup, will it "breakdown" after a long time of colapsing cycles..
Ah, OK. Yes - they're semi-disposable; perfect for keeping a colour or finish active for the duration of the job, and easy enough to clean if you choose - but also cheap enough to throw away without feeling guilty about it. 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop nice! Thanks!
How much does it cost?
Depends which model you go for but this one was ~£600
Can I use primer with that machine??
Yes, absolutely. 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop thank you very much.
I wish i had one of these for on site work rather than lugging a turbine around. Mifht have to invest
hi peter
wow thats a lot of green
i am lucky enough to be irish and green is our colour but
i don't think st patrick himself would have that much green 🙂
great job though and i guess even after taking the time to do the masking it is still quicker with the spray gun
looking forward to seeing the final product
we all will be green with envy ha ha 🤢🤢🤢🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂
Hi James. Haha - I was green all over after spraying the walls and woodwork... 😆😂👍
🙂👍👍👍👍
Looks like a tool that will very quickly pay for itself
Already has! 😆👍
Thats a lot of masking off.
A painter & decorator as well.
Why not just paint the room with a roller.
John Colquhoun you'll never get as good finish with roller as a sprayer
As mentioned earlier in the series, client spec was for a sprayed finish. 👍
How do you roll all that cornicing on the ceiling?
Slowly, unless you’re spraying 😂👍
Problem with spraying, you can't touch it up. It's a stupid thing to do for walls unless you back roller it.
this guy likes green
Well, the clients did, anyway. 🤷♂️
I hate you Pete! I paid £400 for my Apollo hvlp!!! So noisy 😢 want one of these now?!!
Sorry about that- the Apollo’s very well thought of, I just wanted so,etching more portable and self-contained for this particular job 👍👍
Too loud to paint the fences...neighbours would go mad after half an hour!!
Peter, I very much enjoy your videos. But, PLEASE learn proper spraying technique!!
I look forward to your videos advising me on where I’m going wrong Marty. If you’re not aware, this 8-part series documents me going from spraying novice to mildly competent over the course of 5 months. This is about the halfway point. 👍👍
I haven't yet done any videos, Peter, but knowing you I'm pretty certain you'll catch onto the main techniques very quickly. I'll follow along on your journey of learning...
Again, thanks for sharing your knowledge and experiences with us, through your videos.
No problem Marty - thanks for watching and taking the time to comment 👍👍
Keep doing carpentry!, leave the paint for the painerts!..
Why would anyone want to have that color?! O.o
Wouldn’t have been my choice, but have to say the finished product looks fantastic 👍👍
I have a client who is also a designer and she decided on high-gloss Hunter green from Fine Paints of Europe. It requires a similar set-up time (65% solids), but ended up being much longer before it could be sanded foor the second coat. In the end finishing costs were $7500 USD for spraying 23 boxes and doors. Aye! Never again!
I hope the customer likesturquoise
👍 Seriously, who do you think chose it? (ps It’s the primer/undercoat- topcoat is the dark green in the second half of the vid)
oh boy what a horrible color....maybe color blind???
Eye of the beholder. I rather liked the finished colour - as mentioned in the vid, the mint green is just the primer - but it really doesn’t matter what we like, does it? We’re not the client. 🤷♂️👍
Over spray, you don’t know how to handle this.
Or you could watch all the way to the end of the series where you'll discover that the tip was faulty... 🤷♂️