Now Im not sure if this applies, but may be similar to how garbage bags hold more garbage if you incessantly swing them up and down, filling them with air, while making obnoxious amounts of noise.
Groundskeeper here, serrated knives are the best pocket knives I’ve found for impromptu brush / tree cutting tasks. I really think giving a serrated knife is worth having in one’s EDC collection.
The german Company Güde (Franz Güde son of the Founder of Güde Knnives) inventet the Wellenschliff (Wafegrind) especialy for Bread. Wellenschliff is a form of seration and as far as I know it was the first serration developed for Blades (1931). This special serration should help to cut the Bread without pressing it while cutting. Serrations do not only have a Advantage when cutting Ropes but also when cutting soft Materials without much pressure. Another situation where serations have an advantage is when you have to cut deep through several layers of closing. A polished edge can glide over the material without getting a "gripp". Sharks use serated teath to cut ther prey. PS: sorry for my bad english
My favorite blades have all had one thing in common...Half-serration. It is priceless. The smooth point and first half is great for any normal knife work, and the serration is perfect for sawing cardboard, harder cuts with less pressure, and the points of the teeth can sometimes be used for what the point would be used for (and you have a ton of fresh points when needed), without dulling the actual point (because a duller saw tooth is not going to affect anything in everyday use). I have heard a lot of hate for half-serrated blades, but they are amazing. It should be noted that I dont carry $400 blades that I have to worry about sharpening and keeping perfect. That said (topic tangent), if you carry a knife for self-defense, grab a good fixed blade for JUST that, then use your cheaper flippers for daily work. My brutally used (army, camping, industrial maintenance at civilian job) Gerber 800 Legend still has a razor sharp serration and the straight edge has only been sharpened a couple times in it's nearly 20 years.
I agree. It's a shame that the "knife bros" are so biased against partially serrated edges. When I worked on a farm, I always carried a partially serrated knife. A plain edge just sucks when dealing with a wad of dirty/gritty twine. I have to assume that the guys who hate serrations have either an office job or they just don't do much dirty work.
I feel like it’s the worst of both worlds - you give up half the cutting edge blade and there’s not enough serration pattern there to do much sawing/serrating.🤷♂️
@@gi_nattakding ding ding, we have a winner! Exactly. Unless you're cutting rope that's 1/8th inch thick, a partial serration is just going to be a hindrance.
On the question about opening and closing or unsheathing and sheathing the knife. Like any tool, it is good to verify it works before going into battle...or work...or play. It's good to verify that it is functioning as intended before arriving at your destination. Also, it's fun.
I’d love to listen to you talk about coatings… I have a few knives that have cerakote and I haven’t been impressed… I have a BM 940 where the anodizing has held up great… much better than my experience with cerakote. Then you have the treatment of parkarizing on a BM clip which holds up amazing. I think metal treatments and coatings would be a great full episode discussion
I have a Spyderco Native 5 with their smooth black coating (can't remember actual name) and it has been amazing! Super tough and hard and hasn't chipped or rubbed off at all. I am pretty hard on this knife too!
Benchmade puts a nice finish on their clips now. It used to be crap, it was no more than a mediocre to decent quality spray paint. Spyderco seems to use a pretty good finish too.
@@Arman-jx7hu Ah, another Native 5 fan. Pleasure... Spyderco's coating is referred to as a "DLC" coating (Diamond Like Carbon coating). It's similar to a PVD (Physical Vapor Deposition) coating in that the coating is actually the surface layer of a metal that's been molecularly bonded to another substance instead of something like cerakote, which is a more traditional coating that can chip away. DLC coatings are something else. As the name suggests, the carbon that's bonded to the surface is formed in a way to the structure of diamonds, so it's incredibly hard stuff on a molecular level. It can wear over time, but it's definitely not something that's going to be chipping off. I've had my Manix 2 for roughly two years now. I carry and use it for weeks at a time, and aside from a few light snail trails and hair thin scratches, the coating has held up incredibly. I actually kind of like the wear on it, too. It doesn't look chipped and ugly like a cheaper powder coating would.
I'm a knife maker and I keep hearing "I can keep my knife sharp, I don't need serrations". lol. So I did a test with some very high end steels and very good edge geometrys for slicing VS serrations. And I found that serrations worked very well in certain situations. In fact they out performed a scary straight edge. Like it was said in the video, rope cuts and particularly cutting things like seat belts, serrations smoked the regular edge. Just my .02
@@Nudel-nc1cp Serrated edges are useful for people who do real work. For instance, plain edges suck at cutting through a wad of dirty, gritty twine. It's a shame that most "knife bros" are office workers who think cutting cardboard boxes is "hard use".
If I have serrations on a knife I really like having partial serrations. I feel like it gives you the advantages of a plain edge while still giving you the option to easily cut through rope. I really like partial serrations on my outdoors and “tactical” knives. On my Microtechs I like the d/e with the top edge being serrated and the bottom being plain. I also really like how benchmade leaves “puppy teeth” on their plain edges, which gives you a little bit more traction when trying to get through a rope
My preference to actual serrations is a toothy edge in a steel with high carbide content (preferably vanadium) - like Benchmade’s S90v with a factory edge... certainly not for everyone, but it’s a route worth trying if you dislike serrations. I’ve found 154cm is a excellent budget alternative.
DCA did a good job explaining the benefits of serrations in certain use scenarios. A huge benefit is that as you make a straight draw cut with serrations the blade touches the material at a variety of different angles. Depending on the pattern the sharpened edge comes in at 90 degrees, then transitions to over 45. This is especially apparent when sawing back and forth. It’s similar to when you are cutting something really tough and you saw back and forth using different angles, but the serrations do that for you with each cut.
When I got a problem with falling asleep, I just fire up a KC video with DCA talking about the knives and I'm gone in 60 seconds.... Thank You for the knowledge and for the way to fall asleep
They are great. If you know how and when to use them. I like them. My edc has serrations combo this time of year. Cut a lot of low hanging limbs and brush with it when I’m mowing so I don’t get poked in the face. Plain blade takes longer.
I need a new beater knife, Sunday (5/15/2022) I drove 1.5 hours to my sons house to fix the water well. I had to use my older version Kershaw Vapor as a chisel to dig out broke PVC pipe threads in a water tank. I ended up breaking my Vapor thanks to a hammer. I am glad I did not have one of my better quality knives with me or I would have felt bad about hammering on the knife. DCA, What Knife would you EDC Knowing there was a possibility you were going to hammer it to death? P.S. thank you for your devotion to the knife industry.
I went to a Spyderco serrated Endura many years ago because I cut tons of hemp rope from 1" to 2" on the job. I carried a Buck 110 for many years but it would be dull quickly. The Spyderco serrated Endura held up for days before I needed to sharpen. 30 years ago there wasn't many choices in knives.
Thinning the edge (or removing some of the "shoulder" as it was called here) can actually increase longevity because the amount of metal removed at each subsequent sharpening is less. It also reduces the time for honing and restoring performance.
I'm surprised you didn't address "effective edge length" on a serrated blade. Every one of those little scallops adds up to a significantly longer total edge if you were to measure the distance along the curves. A fully serrated knife can have an effective edge of double or even triple the length of the blade itself.
DCA, it's gardening season once again! Let's talk pruning knives across all the budgets! Let's go with pruning everything from garden veggies to flowers and small branches. There's definitely acidic plants to worry about (corrosion resistance), ease of opening and closing one handed and ease of cleaning are a few factors that come to mind. Would be used heavily all around the garden, so cutting rope, twine, the works and getting real dirty. Microtech OTF with double sided blade and serration in Elmax comes to mind, but pain in the butt to send off to have it opened up and cleaned when it gets really dirty. What other options can you think of? Both fixed and folding options are appreciated (but having 2 bouncing puppies make fixed a little less safe for the next year or two!)
Love this question! I think it's a good one for KAQ. My personal go-to in the garden has been a Mora 510 (wish they made a 511 with lefty sheath). But this year I'm using my new Spyderco UKPK Salt. It's bright yellow for high contrast if it falls in the dirt, LC200N, ambi, and one hand opening/closing. Super easy to clean. I think that the Magnacut Native 5 Salt coming out later this year might be a good option too. But if I'm doing any amount of pruning I will usually reach for pruning shears just to reduce plant disease potential
Hey David, I've decided your idea of a Victorinox with serrations at the tip of the blade on the One-Handed Trekker is a great idea. Do they make suck a knife with: One hand opener, saw, scissors, phillips and screwdriver? Other instruments like bottle/can opener and awl would be nice, but the saw, scissors, and one-hand opener are must-haves. By the way, I live in the desert West, and when my hands are really dry, my wooden-handled Conspirator also slips very easy in my hands. I'm going to put in some hand checkering with a very fine saw blade.
My uncle has been a white water rafting instructor for 26 years. For ten years he’s had a Byrd Cara Cara Rescue 2 (Spyderco) with full serrations, a $37 knife. He’s never had to sharpen it because serrations have so much cutting power and they takes years and years before they need to be sharpened and by that point you would have got a new knife anyway. If you want a knife that’s just going to work/cut every time get a serrated knife.
The release of the Boker daily Ak1 is exciting. I love the size, shape, and the pocket sheath. Now I wonder DCA why aren’t there more edc pocket fixed blades on the market?
Hi David, in a teapot, bring the water to a simmer. Pour the hot water into a mug. Add small shot of whiskey, 2 teaspoons of honey and 2 teaspoons of lemon juice. Stir until the honey has disappeared and drink while it's hot. Thank me later 😅
I generally prefer a plain edge, but for certain jobs I want serrations. As a Hydro Operator doing high voltage switching and LockOut TagOut, I cut a lot of tie wraps (retired after 45+ years). Serrations work. In rescue work, everyone knows serrations are great for cutting nylon webbing and rope. They are also great for going through stranded copper wire. My EDC knives all have plain edges, but my EDC includes a Leatherman WAVE with a serrated blade.
My EDC was 1/2 serrated 1/2 plane edge for a really long time. I’ve been carrying a large folder for cutting nylon off big round hay bales, but I still miss that serrated portion. Works so much better cutting rope, plastics, etc.
Question: I've been EDC-ing the carcass splitter and have been getting some odd looks when I use it day-to-day. I think I need a smaller, more subtle knife to hand people and use in more public situations etc. Any recommendations? Thanks!
Meh, carry what you feel like, screw em. How big is your carcass splitter? I also carry a belt knife, and find 5-6" is about maximum without too many weird looks. But I carry a pair normally my kabar and one of several pocket fixies. If you want something cheaper and lower profile, Crkt has plenty of little fixed blades.
Sounds like a great EDC sword to me. I carry two sometimes three fixed blade knives on my a day. All I would say is ignore the annoying city people. Don't give into such stupid people. I've really been thinking about Carring a Gladius around.
I like a half serrated blade. But only rarely. For example my brother hated his gerber 06 auto and gave it to me. Took it down and cleaned and oiled it up nice, which was extremely hard. However it’s a tough knife and to me it fits. And it’s extremely usable.
Serrations are awesome. I used to not think this way until I used an Endura fully serrated to cut through drywall. Piece of cake. The Spyderco H-1 is 67 on the Rockwell scale after it's serrated. It's some black magic sorcery. I carry a Byrd Cara Cara a lot with half serrations and it's a really great knife for the money. I also dig the new Byrd Wharncliffe fully serrated. My wife had a Dragonfly fully serrated and I had to touch it up once in ten years. She uses it all the time.
Thank you for great videos. This is more of a rant than a question, but anyway, here it goes: I don't get thumb studs in folders, and especially in short blades. More often than not, once the blade is deployed, the thumb studs gets in the way of both sharpening and slicing. Am I the only one that views this as a problem? I personally prefer flippers or a thumb hole, where Spyderco seems to be the most consistent manufacturer. I have a Kershaw Shuffle which IMO illustrates this well, but even on my Civivi Badlands Vagabond (which is a great EDC in most ways), that thumb stud sometimes get in the way. Thoughts?
Agree! I wish more knives used a “disk” in the spine like my Benchmade CQC 7. Very positive opening but out of the way for sharpening and most slicing.
DVA..... first I would like to say thank you. Everything that you have covered is right on and I love to watch your videos. I am 63 years young and I believe that, like I believe with a firearm... the best one that you can have, is the one that you have with you. Steel, grind, fixed, folder, are all important, but I believe that learning how to sharpen, utilize, and be safe with the knife as a tool..... is most important. There's a reason why I made it to 63, with my background... teachers, mentors (which you are one of), the grace of GOD, and luck! Thanks, for listening! And I KNOW that serrated knives are the ultimate cutters!
Hey DCA...what would you recommend for carry during mountain biking? Intermediate (blue) trails, so I'm doing nothing crazy. Neck knife (what I've been using)? Serrated for when cutting back trail overgrowth? Perhaps something to attach to a Camelbak? I'd prefer quick access for personal defense considerations. Thanks!!!
The only thing I use a serrated edge for is cutting bread. But if I ever buy a long ship and need to cut a lot of sisal rope to manage my sails and rigging, I'll give it a bit more consideration.
Hi: I like to build survival kits or Bugout bags for people that don’t know what they are doing. This also places their trust in me to build them a bag or kit with gear that is not the basic cheap garbage you often see in prebuilt kits. On my larger Kits I sometimes add in a scissors, often in the form of a paramedic shears. What other options are out there in varying price ranges (about $10, $25, $50 ranges) and at what sizes? Side note: The smaller ones are often better in a kit that is over stuffed and bulging.
How about the Al Mar SEAR Knife ?3.6" D2 Satin Talon Drop Point, Dragon Hyde black FRN handles and with a gold logo inlay you won't have any trouble finding one....it will come looking for you.
Large-handled small-bladed folder? I have larger than average hands, and really like a full handle, but there are times when I want or need a smaller blade, ~2.5” (e.g. for precision work, or to avoid concerns in crowded public areas, or where limited by law such as Boston). I prefer great materials, but understand my choices may be limited. I just want a medium/small blade with a great full grip in a pocket portable package. Any recommendations?
Hey DCA, I'm looking for a second knife to accompany my folding razor blade for construction use. Preferably a manual flipper under $100 with thumb studs and pivot washers.
The QSP Penguin was my first "good" knife I started carrying at work (remodeling). Inexpensive (40 something $) and the blade shape is utilitarian. I have many other ( more expensive) knives now and it's still one of my most carried for work EDC
To max the maker - How about a Swiss Army Farmer X? The red Alox version Knifecenter carries is great. This way you've still got another blade under 3 inches (the blade itself is 2.75) but that way you've also got: Scissors, saw, bottle opener, can opener, awl, and screwdriver (which can also work on many phillips-head screws.)
Great content DCA. Any tips for maintaining blade center on folding knives? Sometimes when I attempt to center a blade I end up with a tight pivot and slow opening knife.
DCA, is blade play something to be concerned about? How much is too much, & does it depend on the type of locking mechanism? I somewhat obsess over blade play, but should I be worrying about it?
I have an Elementum with the cuibourtia wood handle and I find it slippery too. Wish civivi would sell replacement scales for there knives so we have an option to fix the mistake we made when purchasing the wrong version of a knife. Really don't feel like having to buy a whole new knife just because I found the scales on one aren't what I like.
First off KC crew I love what you do. My question is what knife would y'all say is similar to the Sebenza with the Insingo blade? I use the Gerber fastball right now, but I'm just a thumbstuds guy. I work with a lot of corrugated material so the sheepsfoot/wharncliffe blade is a must.
Regarding saber vs scandi: If I take a scandi and raise the bevel way up to midway of the blade or beyond, where does the scandi stop, and where does the saber start? Scandis are also flat ground, just like a flat ground saber, they usually just take up much less hight of the blade. I think this is where many people get confused, because a significantly raised scandi (with micro bevel) must define as flat ground saber at some point. Or am I completely missing something?
What's the best large sharpened metal object (other than an axe) for chopping wood? I am partial to a kukri but I see many other choppy objects on the site and they call to me.
Hi DCA. I'm wanting to buy the slicey-ist manual knife possible with a crossbar, compression, or button lock for maximum fidget factor as well. I prefer the bigger knife versions like the PM2 or even a Bugout over the mini equivalents but it doesn't have to be limited to that. Can you help? Thanks in advance
I have a stone knife blade on my KC exclusive Sig K320, and stone washed titanium scales on my Spyderco Para 3, and I noticed they are both super smooth to the touch. Is this a natural result or is there something extra done to stonewashes to give them that smooth feel?
Hey DCA! Thanks for the content. I like to carry thin bladed pocket knives from time to time. I have a Civivi Lumi and a Spyderco Ladybug in K390, but I have not been able to find many knives in the 3 to 3.5 inch blade range with a blade thickness of less than .125". It must be a locking blade and my price range is $40-$150.
Check out the Hogue Deka, specifically the one in 20CV with a Wharnecliff Blade. It's VERY thin and last I remember only like $130. AMAZING edge on them too. Might be a bit long, closer to 3.5-4 inches.
My son bought me a knife for Father’s Day which I’ve used primarily for cutting cardboard. The blade dulled quickly. What is the best way to sharpen my knife?
Hey DCA, got a question for you and would appreciate input. I’m a butcher/meat cutter by trade as well as an avid outdoorsman. Because my line of work I tend to use a 5-6” boning knife for a lot of small tasks, so here is my question is there something similar in a smaller carry friendly version of a boning style knife that can be used for outdoors tasks and food prep at camp that can be sharpened or maintained easily. Preferably not the outdoor edge option. Any options or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Hey DCA, do you know of any knives that are similar to the Pena Trapper X Series that are within the $50 to $150 range? I like the way the lock is positioned under the scales but still keeps the frame lock vibe. I also like how the knife keeps the traditional trapper style while also having a pocket clip. PS. How is the move going/ how has it gone?
Hello DCA! I need help. I recently lost my Kershaw Vapor which has been my go to edc for nearly 20 years. I have a Tupperware container full of knives from Buck, Cold Steel, Spyderco, and other brands, but none of them feel and care like that Vapor. So what would you recommend as a possible replacement up $125 in price, 3 inch narrow blade height. Bonus points for USA made and an easy to sharpen steel (read as no D2).
As someone who wears a lot of suits to work I'd like to buy a new executive/ceo type pocket knife. However, the blade length in many executive knives seem fairly long. Usually around the 3 to 3.5 inch range it seems like. Can you recommend a slim style like the crkt ceo or the Samior, but with a shorter blade length to not scare off any office folks if I need to use it?
Hey DCA ! I got my hand on a crk umnumzaan and use it as my working knife on the fishing vessel I’m working on what angel would you go with to get the longest performance? I doesn’t have time to field sharp my knive on sea
I've recently picked up my first framelock flipper, a ZT 0462. Fantastic knife, although I find I more careful with heavier cuts. Because when I grip it tight as I push through the material the frame lock can get jammed in a lot deeper than intended and sometimes hard to disengage. Do all framelocks have similar issues, is this particular examples just flimsy, or am I being too hard on it.
I guess i do it the hard way - i used one of those pocket diamond sharpeners that has the hook sharpener - can flip it around and use the small curved part to sharpen the serrated part without grinding the points down and then just sharpen the rest of the edge with traditional sharpening
I despise serrated blades, especially partially serrated with the serrations at the base. You can't whittle or strip electric wire with a blade like that. As for cutting heavy rope, there's not much call to cut hawser in central Kansas.
if you have a task that has to do with rope, some kind of twine or line, then I can understand why you might choose serrations. Other than that, they aren't worth time - because a serrated knife will bind in other materials at the absolute worst time.
Hello, DCA I’m looking for something not necessarily tactical but cool and bad you know what. My favorite knife is the XM-18 have two but not looking for a 24 or other RHK product. 3.5”-4” blade, at least .50 thick on the handle, and a price ceiling of $800. Looking at a Spartan Blades SHF but would like to see what you come up with sense I picked up that Brisa you highlighted in the hidden gems video and love it. Thanks!
Love these videos KC. Question: wikipedia says that G10 is flammable and can "burn violently". Do you think this is a real concern in, say, camping or cooking or rescue scenarios?
Hey Dave, a question for ya. Is there an easy reliable way to work out the angle of a factory edge? I have seen those circular gauges, do they work? I know some knife makers advertise this but it is not always readily apparent. Keep up the great work, luv this channel.
How is it possible there are so many absolute nerds in this one hobby? Lord!
Tongs don't work right unless you click them a couple of times right out of the drawer. I thought everyone knew this! 😅
Very true, this also applies to scissors and click pens.
Underrated comment 🥇🤘🏻
Now Im not sure if this applies, but may be similar to how garbage bags hold more garbage if you incessantly swing them up and down, filling them with air, while making obnoxious amounts of noise.
It's true
Actually in many places, you LEGALLY have to do a crab/lobster impression every time you take out your tongs precisely for this reason.
Groundskeeper here, serrated knives are the best pocket knives I’ve found for impromptu brush / tree cutting tasks. I really think giving a serrated knife is worth having in one’s EDC collection.
I definitely agree
So you use them like a saw?
What blade shape do you think works best with the serrations?
I’d like to a fully separated recurve blade design from Microtech!
@@TClayH Spyderco Endura
The german Company Güde (Franz Güde son of the Founder of Güde Knnives) inventet the Wellenschliff (Wafegrind) especialy for Bread. Wellenschliff is a form of seration and as far as I know it was the first serration developed for Blades (1931). This special serration should help to cut the Bread without pressing it while cutting. Serrations do not only have a Advantage when cutting Ropes but also when cutting soft Materials without much pressure. Another situation where serations have an advantage is when you have to cut deep through several layers of closing. A polished edge can glide over the material without getting a "gripp". Sharks use serated teath to cut ther prey. PS: sorry for my bad english
My favorite blades have all had one thing in common...Half-serration. It is priceless. The smooth point and first half is great for any normal knife work, and the serration is perfect for sawing cardboard, harder cuts with less pressure, and the points of the teeth can sometimes be used for what the point would be used for (and you have a ton of fresh points when needed), without dulling the actual point (because a duller saw tooth is not going to affect anything in everyday use). I have heard a lot of hate for half-serrated blades, but they are amazing. It should be noted that I dont carry $400 blades that I have to worry about sharpening and keeping perfect. That said (topic tangent), if you carry a knife for self-defense, grab a good fixed blade for JUST that, then use your cheaper flippers for daily work.
My brutally used (army, camping, industrial maintenance at civilian job) Gerber 800 Legend still has a razor sharp serration and the straight edge has only been sharpened a couple times in it's nearly 20 years.
I agree. It's a shame that the "knife bros" are so biased against partially serrated edges. When I worked on a farm, I always carried a partially serrated knife. A plain edge just sucks when dealing with a wad of dirty/gritty twine. I have to assume that the guys who hate serrations have either an office job or they just don't do much dirty work.
For me, nothing beats a knife with partial serrations, it’s the best of both worlds.
I feel like it’s the worst of both worlds - you give up half the cutting edge blade and there’s not enough serration pattern there to do much sawing/serrating.🤷♂️
@@gi_nattakding ding ding, we have a winner!
Exactly. Unless you're cutting rope that's 1/8th inch thick, a partial serration is just going to be a hindrance.
I say go all or nothing. Go full serrations or go full plain edge. None of this in-between bull crap!
On the question about opening and closing or unsheathing and sheathing the knife. Like any tool, it is good to verify it works before going into battle...or work...or play. It's good to verify that it is functioning as intended before arriving at your destination. Also, it's fun.
Folks used'ta tell me I was playing with my knife...no I was practicing....even if I WAS playing with it
Slippery??? Add a bit of skateboard type tape
Thanks DCA and team for another super Video! Wish you fast recovery David. Greetings from Austria of course
I’d love to listen to you talk about coatings… I have a few knives that have cerakote and I haven’t been impressed… I have a BM 940 where the anodizing has held up great… much better than my experience with cerakote. Then you have the treatment of parkarizing on a BM clip which holds up amazing. I think metal treatments and coatings would be a great full episode discussion
This ⬆️
They had episode about that .
I have a Spyderco Native 5 with their smooth black coating (can't remember actual name) and it has been amazing! Super tough and hard and hasn't chipped or rubbed off at all. I am pretty hard on this knife too!
Benchmade puts a nice finish on their clips now. It used to be crap, it was no more than a mediocre to decent quality spray paint. Spyderco seems to use a pretty good finish too.
@@Arman-jx7hu Ah, another Native 5 fan. Pleasure...
Spyderco's coating is referred to as a "DLC" coating (Diamond Like Carbon coating). It's similar to a PVD (Physical Vapor Deposition) coating in that the coating is actually the surface layer of a metal that's been molecularly bonded to another substance instead of something like cerakote, which is a more traditional coating that can chip away.
DLC coatings are something else. As the name suggests, the carbon that's bonded to the surface is formed in a way to the structure of diamonds, so it's incredibly hard stuff on a molecular level. It can wear over time, but it's definitely not something that's going to be chipping off.
I've had my Manix 2 for roughly two years now. I carry and use it for weeks at a time, and aside from a few light snail trails and hair thin scratches, the coating has held up incredibly. I actually kind of like the wear on it, too. It doesn't look chipped and ugly like a cheaper powder coating would.
Black tipped arrow! This fantasy nerd is definitely with you. Thanks for the shout-out, David!
I'm a knife maker and I keep hearing "I can keep my knife sharp, I don't need serrations". lol. So I did a test with some very high end steels and very good edge geometrys for slicing VS serrations. And I found that serrations worked very well in certain situations. In fact they out performed a scary straight edge. Like it was said in the video, rope cuts and particularly cutting things like seat belts, serrations smoked the regular edge. Just my .02
nothing I use my knife day to day for requires that second advantage, but a lot of what I do requires a clean, neat cut. I prefer plain edge
@@charlesissleepy That's why the partially serrated edge was created. People need the serrations only some of the time.
@@BornIn1500 Well... Serrated edges are as useful and commonly used, as glassbreaker tips. Like one time per decade? :]
@@Nudel-nc1cp Serrated edges are useful for people who do real work. For instance, plain edges suck at cutting through a wad of dirty, gritty twine. It's a shame that most "knife bros" are office workers who think cutting cardboard boxes is "hard use".
If I have serrations on a knife I really like having partial serrations. I feel like it gives you the advantages of a plain edge while still giving you the option to easily cut through rope. I really like partial serrations on my outdoors and “tactical” knives. On my Microtechs I like the d/e with the top edge being serrated and the bottom being plain. I also really like how benchmade leaves “puppy teeth” on their plain edges, which gives you a little bit more traction when trying to get through a rope
My preference to actual serrations is a toothy edge in a steel with high carbide content (preferably vanadium) - like Benchmade’s S90v with a factory edge... certainly not for everyone, but it’s a route worth trying if you dislike serrations. I’ve found 154cm is a excellent budget alternative.
I've heard a lot of good things about 154CM from a lot of people that really know knives.
DCA did a good job explaining the benefits of serrations in certain use scenarios.
A huge benefit is that as you make a straight draw cut with serrations the blade touches the material at a variety of different angles. Depending on the pattern the sharpened edge comes in at 90 degrees, then transitions to over 45. This is especially apparent when sawing back and forth. It’s similar to when you are cutting something really tough and you saw back and forth using different angles, but the serrations do that for you with each cut.
Must admit, I _did not expect_ DCA to *pull out a saber.* Very nice 👌
I'd love to see you talk about the best grinds and steels for whittling and woodworking, as well as info on Rockwell hardness.
When I got a problem with falling asleep, I just fire up a KC video with DCA talking about the knives and I'm gone in 60 seconds.... Thank You for the knowledge and for the way to fall asleep
They are great. If you know how and when to use them. I like them. My edc has serrations combo this time of year. Cut a lot of low hanging limbs and brush with it when I’m mowing so I don’t get poked in the face. Plain blade takes longer.
The answer to "complimentary blade" is always Victorinox. Always :)
That's what I do :) -DCA
I need a new beater knife, Sunday (5/15/2022) I drove 1.5 hours to my sons house to fix the water well. I had to use my older version Kershaw Vapor as a chisel to dig out broke PVC pipe threads in a water tank. I ended up breaking my Vapor thanks to a hammer. I am glad I did not have one of my better quality knives with me or I would have felt bad about hammering on the knife. DCA, What Knife would you EDC Knowing there was a possibility you were going to hammer it to death? P.S. thank you for your devotion to the knife industry.
Thank you for explaining this. I hear so many incorrect descriptions on the "knife expert" channels.
I went to a Spyderco serrated Endura many years ago because I cut tons of hemp rope from 1" to 2" on the job. I carried a Buck 110 for many years but it would be dull quickly. The Spyderco serrated Endura held up for days before I needed to sharpen. 30 years ago there wasn't many choices in knives.
I carry a Spyderco serrated. It doesn’t dull out as fast when I’m out and use it as a steak knife. Points hit the plate before the edge
Thinning the edge (or removing some of the "shoulder" as it was called here) can actually increase longevity because the amount of metal removed at each subsequent sharpening is less. It also reduces the time for honing and restoring performance.
I'm surprised you didn't address "effective edge length" on a serrated blade. Every one of those little scallops adds up to a significantly longer total edge if you were to measure the distance along the curves. A fully serrated knife can have an effective edge of double or even triple the length of the blade itself.
Good point
Triple or quadruple
I've talked about it in the past. Didn't think it was as germane to the question at hand, but point well made sir -DCA
Try Thompson's water seal on the wooden handle, after cleaning with soap lather as from a shaving brush and drying out before the water seal.
I'm with you on Bard's Arrow!
DCA, it's gardening season once again! Let's talk pruning knives across all the budgets! Let's go with pruning everything from garden veggies to flowers and small branches. There's definitely acidic plants to worry about (corrosion resistance), ease of opening and closing one handed and ease of cleaning are a few factors that come to mind. Would be used heavily all around the garden, so cutting rope, twine, the works and getting real dirty.
Microtech OTF with double sided blade and serration in Elmax comes to mind, but pain in the butt to send off to have it opened up and cleaned when it gets really dirty. What other options can you think of? Both fixed and folding options are appreciated (but having 2 bouncing puppies make fixed a little less safe for the next year or two!)
Opinel makes some good pruning knives and if something happens to it they arent too expensive to replace
@@kydd666 Appreciate the input. Personally not a fan of Opinel, and they don't fit my criteria of ease of opening and closing one handed.
Love this question! I think it's a good one for KAQ. My personal go-to in the garden has been a Mora 510 (wish they made a 511 with lefty sheath). But this year I'm using my new Spyderco UKPK Salt. It's bright yellow for high contrast if it falls in the dirt, LC200N, ambi, and one hand opening/closing. Super easy to clean. I think that the Magnacut Native 5 Salt coming out later this year might be a good option too. But if I'm doing any amount of pruning I will usually reach for pruning shears just to reduce plant disease potential
Hey David, I've decided your idea of a Victorinox with serrations at the tip of the blade on the One-Handed Trekker is a great idea. Do they make suck a knife with: One hand opener, saw, scissors, phillips and screwdriver? Other instruments like bottle/can opener and awl would be nice, but the saw, scissors, and one-hand opener are must-haves. By the way, I live in the desert West, and when my hands are really dry, my wooden-handled Conspirator also slips very easy in my hands. I'm going to put in some hand checkering with a very fine saw blade.
My uncle has been a white water rafting instructor for 26 years. For ten years he’s had a Byrd Cara Cara Rescue 2 (Spyderco) with full serrations, a $37 knife. He’s never had to sharpen it because serrations have so much cutting power and they takes years and years before they need to be sharpened and by that point you would have got a new knife anyway. If you want a knife that’s just going to work/cut every time get a serrated knife.
Thanks for sharing
The way you chose your words in the serration response makes me think you've studied what makes effective communication. Well spoke!
Ya know what, keep doing what you are doing, none better out there, I always share video with my knife group on Facebook
The release of the Boker daily Ak1 is exciting. I love the size, shape, and the pocket sheath. Now I wonder DCA why aren’t there more edc pocket fixed blades on the market?
Hi David, in a teapot, bring the water to a simmer. Pour the hot water into a mug. Add small shot of whiskey, 2 teaspoons of honey and 2 teaspoons of lemon juice. Stir until the honey has disappeared and drink while it's hot. Thank me later 😅
My Hot Toddy recipe was Southern comfort and Sprite with honey and lemon, warmed obviously.
I generally prefer a plain edge, but for certain jobs I want serrations. As a Hydro Operator doing high voltage switching and LockOut TagOut, I cut a lot of tie wraps (retired after 45+ years). Serrations work. In rescue work, everyone knows serrations are great for cutting nylon webbing and rope. They are also great for going through stranded copper wire. My EDC knives all have plain edges, but my EDC includes a Leatherman WAVE with a serrated blade.
My EDC was 1/2 serrated 1/2 plane edge for a really long time. I’ve been carrying a large folder for cutting nylon off big round hay bales, but I still miss that serrated portion. Works so much better cutting rope, plastics, etc.
Nice answer to the most serious question. Boker Joule looks great btw. I always think that serrated edges are light saws.
Question: I've been EDC-ing the carcass splitter and have been getting some odd looks when I use it day-to-day. I think I need a smaller, more subtle knife to hand people and use in more public situations etc. Any recommendations? Thanks!
Meh, carry what you feel like, screw em. How big is your carcass splitter?
I also carry a belt knife, and find 5-6" is about maximum without too many weird looks. But I carry a pair normally my kabar and one of several pocket fixies.
If you want something cheaper and lower profile, Crkt has plenty of little fixed blades.
@@presidentmerkinmuffley6769 The Carcass Splitter is about a 30" long cleaver.
Sounds like a great EDC sword to me. I carry two sometimes three fixed blade knives on my a day. All I would say is ignore the annoying city people. Don't give into such stupid people.
I've really been thinking about Carring a Gladius around.
@@presidentmerkinmuffley6769 it may have been a tongue-in-cheek question, as the carcass splitter is an enormous and heavy thing.
😂
I like a half serrated blade. But only rarely. For example my brother hated his gerber 06 auto and gave it to me. Took it down and cleaned and oiled it up nice, which was extremely hard. However it’s a tough knife and to me it fits. And it’s extremely usable.
If you have to cut through trimmer line or thick rope, having serrations on part of the blade helps alot.
Serrations are awesome. I used to not think this way until I used an Endura fully serrated to cut through drywall. Piece of cake. The Spyderco H-1 is 67 on the Rockwell scale after it's serrated. It's some black magic sorcery. I carry a Byrd Cara Cara a lot with half serrations and it's a really great knife for the money. I also dig the new Byrd Wharncliffe fully serrated. My wife had a Dragonfly fully serrated and I had to touch it up once in ten years. She uses it all the time.
Thank you for great videos. This is more of a rant than a question, but anyway, here it goes:
I don't get thumb studs in folders, and especially in short blades. More often than not, once the blade is deployed, the thumb studs gets in the way of both sharpening and slicing. Am I the only one that views this as a problem? I personally prefer flippers or a thumb hole, where Spyderco seems to be the most consistent manufacturer. I have a Kershaw Shuffle which IMO illustrates this well, but even on my Civivi Badlands Vagabond (which is a great EDC in most ways), that thumb stud sometimes get in the way. Thoughts?
Agree! I wish more knives used a “disk” in the spine like my Benchmade CQC 7. Very positive opening but out of the way for sharpening and most slicing.
DVA..... first I would like to say thank you. Everything that you have covered is right on and I love to watch your videos. I am 63 years young and I believe that, like I believe with a firearm... the best one that you can have, is the one that you have with you. Steel, grind, fixed, folder, are all important, but I believe that learning how to sharpen, utilize, and be safe with the knife as a tool..... is most important.
There's a reason why I made it to 63, with my background... teachers, mentors (which you are one of), the grace of GOD, and luck!
Thanks, for listening!
And I KNOW that serrated knives are the ultimate cutters!
Hey DCA...what would you recommend for carry during mountain biking? Intermediate (blue) trails, so I'm doing nothing crazy. Neck knife (what I've been using)? Serrated for when cutting back trail overgrowth? Perhaps something to attach to a Camelbak? I'd prefer quick access for personal defense considerations. Thanks!!!
I can understand the comment about the grip issue. I have very rough hands and that makes gripping smother knives more of a pain.
Black tipped arrow, that one made my laugh out loud. Excellent videos
With the hot weather arriving, what is a good lightweight primary carry knife with an inconspicuous clip
What are you opinions on the crkt homefront? I'm really fond of the ease of cleaning. Are there other knives with similar takedown features?
Idk I've been looking for a defensive edc and the Ontario arrow may have won over the cqc-4kxl and sog pentagon for me
The only thing I use a serrated edge for is cutting bread. But if I ever buy a long ship and need to cut a lot of sisal rope to manage my sails and rigging, I'll give it a bit more consideration.
Hi: I like to build survival kits or Bugout bags for people that don’t know what they are doing. This also places their trust in me to build them a bag or kit with gear that is not the basic cheap garbage you often see in prebuilt kits. On my larger Kits I sometimes add in a scissors, often in the form of a paramedic shears. What other options are out there in varying price ranges (about $10, $25, $50 ranges) and at what sizes? Side note: The smaller ones are often better in a kit that is over stuffed and bulging.
How about the Al Mar SEAR Knife ?3.6" D2 Satin Talon Drop Point, Dragon Hyde black FRN handles and with a gold logo inlay you won't have any trouble finding one....it will come looking for you.
Large-handled small-bladed folder?
I have larger than average hands, and really like a full handle, but there are times when I want or need a smaller blade, ~2.5” (e.g. for precision work, or to avoid concerns in crowded public areas, or where limited by law such as Boston). I prefer great materials, but understand my choices may be limited. I just want a medium/small blade with a great full grip in a pocket portable package. Any recommendations?
Hey David! I’m looking for a sub 4 inch multi blade knife with a plain edge and a serrated edge for on the go food prep… any recommendations?
Hey DCA, I'm looking for a second knife to accompany my folding razor blade for construction use. Preferably a manual flipper under $100 with thumb studs and pivot washers.
The QSP Penguin was my first "good" knife I started carrying at work (remodeling). Inexpensive (40 something $) and the blade shape is utilitarian. I have many other ( more expensive) knives now and it's still one of my most carried for work EDC
dug the vid from a while back with big/small combos, got me thinking
do you have any "old" and "new" style combos y'all think pair nicely?
I picked up a Chevalier with the wood handle and it is noticeably more slippery than the micarta handles I have on my Other Civivi button locks.
To max the maker - How about a Swiss Army Farmer X? The red Alox version Knifecenter carries is great. This way you've still got another blade under 3 inches (the blade itself is 2.75) but that way you've also got: Scissors, saw, bottle opener, can opener, awl, and screwdriver (which can also work on many phillips-head screws.)
Great content DCA. Any tips for maintaining blade center on folding knives? Sometimes when I attempt to center a blade I end up with a tight pivot and slow opening knife.
I like my Tuff Lite..both standard and serrated..full size and mini...
DCA, is blade play something to be concerned about? How much is too much, & does it depend on the type of locking mechanism? I somewhat obsess over blade play, but should I be worrying about it?
I have an Elementum with the cuibourtia wood handle and I find it slippery too. Wish civivi would sell replacement scales for there knives so we have an option to fix the mistake we made when purchasing the wrong version of a knife. Really don't feel like having to buy a whole new knife just because I found the scales on one aren't what I like.
Have you looked at Flytanium scales?
@@davidgarrett5671 yeah I have. They only have titanium though and I'm not sure that's what I want.
@@tylerbarnes7628 Changed mine to black titanium, like it much better.
First off KC crew I love what you do. My question is what knife would y'all say is similar to the Sebenza with the Insingo blade? I use the Gerber fastball right now, but I'm just a thumbstuds guy. I work with a lot of corrugated material so the sheepsfoot/wharncliffe blade is a must.
I had the Spyderco Watu for a bit and it was amazing, but being in manufacturing I like carrying American made knives.
I carry both a plain Delica and a full serrated Delica ( both stainless steel ) every day.
Regarding saber vs scandi: If I take a scandi and raise the bevel way up to midway of the blade or beyond, where does the scandi stop, and where does the saber start? Scandis are also flat ground, just like a flat ground saber, they usually just take up much less hight of the blade. I think this is where many people get confused, because a significantly raised scandi (with micro bevel) must define as flat ground saber at some point. Or am I completely missing something?
Scandis are usually about 11 degrees and have no secondary bevel.
@@jusme8060 👌🏼
What's the best large sharpened metal object (other than an axe) for chopping wood? I am partial to a kukri but I see many other choppy objects on the site and they call to me.
that Tolkien reference at the end was awesome
Hi DCA, I have an older spiderco. full serration, has loosend. it has rivets instead of screws. how can I tighten it back up? Thanks!
Hi DCA. I'm wanting to buy the slicey-ist manual knife possible with a crossbar, compression, or button lock for maximum fidget factor as well.
I prefer the bigger knife versions like the PM2 or even a Bugout over the mini equivalents but it doesn't have to be limited to that.
Can you help? Thanks in advance
Check out the Benchmade Freek or the Spyderco Manix 2
The upcoming Benchmade Taggedout is unbelievably slicey -DCA
Can you guys review Reiff Knives F4 and F6? Are they worth the price? Thank you for all you do!
I have a stone knife blade on my KC exclusive Sig K320, and stone washed titanium scales on my Spyderco Para 3, and I noticed they are both super smooth to the touch. Is this a natural result or is there something extra done to stonewashes to give them that smooth feel?
You guys need to send that first one to the Dutch Bushcrafters! That is tailored made for them.
Hey DCA! Thanks for the content. I like to carry thin bladed pocket knives from time to time. I have a Civivi Lumi and a Spyderco Ladybug in K390, but I have not been able to find many knives in the 3 to 3.5 inch blade range with a blade thickness of less than .125". It must be a locking blade and my price range is $40-$150.
Check out the Hogue Deka, specifically the one in 20CV with a Wharnecliff Blade. It's VERY thin and last I remember only like $130. AMAZING edge on them too. Might be a bit long, closer to 3.5-4 inches.
My son bought me a knife for Father’s Day which I’ve used primarily for cutting cardboard. The blade dulled quickly. What is the best way to sharpen my knife?
Big fan of the Spyderco Sharpmaker: kcoti.com/3h4Ldjt
At the shipyard, sometimes cutting a !" rope really fast is necessary. Serrations are da bomb.
I got the benchmade bugout mini, how should I take care of it?
Hey DCA, got a question for you and would appreciate input. I’m a butcher/meat cutter by trade as well as an avid outdoorsman. Because my line of work I tend to use a 5-6” boning knife for a lot of small tasks, so here is my question is there something similar in a smaller carry friendly version of a boning style knife that can be used for outdoors tasks and food prep at camp that can be sharpened or maintained easily. Preferably not the outdoor edge option. Any options or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Hey DCA, do you know of any knives that are similar to the Pena Trapper X Series that are within the $50 to $150 range? I like the way the lock is positioned under the scales but still keeps the frame lock vibe. I also like how the knife keeps the traditional trapper style while also having a pocket clip.
PS. How is the move going/ how has it gone?
Hey DCA, is there an ETA on when the Para 3 S45VN knives will come in? I understand they've been out for a while. Thanks!
We've been getting them in for several months at this point, but we're out of stock at the moment -DCA
Hello DCA! I need help. I recently lost my Kershaw Vapor which has been my go to edc for nearly 20 years. I have a Tupperware container full of knives from Buck, Cold Steel, Spyderco, and other brands, but none of them feel and care like that Vapor. So what would you recommend as a possible replacement up $125 in price, 3 inch narrow blade height. Bonus points for USA made and an easy to sharpen steel (read as no D2).
As someone who wears a lot of suits to work I'd like to buy a new executive/ceo type pocket knife. However, the blade length in many executive knives seem fairly long. Usually around the 3 to 3.5 inch range it seems like. Can you recommend a slim style like the crkt ceo or the Samior, but with a shorter blade length to not scare off any office folks if I need to use it?
Hey DCA ! I got my hand on a crk umnumzaan and use it as my working knife on the fishing vessel I’m working on what angel would you go with to get the longest performance? I doesn’t have time to field sharp my knive on sea
Hey DCA. Love the show. What would you suggest for best blade steel for learning to sharpen knives for a beginner? Thanks for all the great content.
I've recently picked up my first framelock flipper, a ZT 0462. Fantastic knife, although I find I more careful with heavier cuts. Because when I grip it tight as I push through the material the frame lock can get jammed in a lot deeper than intended and sometimes hard to disengage. Do all framelocks have similar issues, is this particular examples just flimsy, or am I being too hard on it.
If you could do a full material upgrade on a Budge knife. What knife would it be? Mine would be an S35VN -G10 cold steel voyager
This is a great question, hope he does it in a video.
For me it'd be any of the Civivi button lock knives in M390 with maple burl scales
S45VN & denim micarta XL Voyager tanto. And upgrade the pin sizes and stop bar sizing.
I would say Pioneer X with S35VN.
I've kind of answered this before - Gerber Sumo deserves an upgrade -DCA
I guess i do it the hard way - i used one of those pocket diamond sharpeners that has the hook sharpener - can flip it around and use the small curved part to sharpen the serrated part without grinding the points down and then just sharpen the rest of the edge with traditional sharpening
I despise serrated blades, especially partially serrated with the serrations at the base. You can't whittle or strip electric wire with a blade like that. As for cutting heavy rope, there's not much call to cut hawser in central Kansas.
Could your discuss the issue of Stellite and Talonite non-steels? Whatever happened to them? Anyone still working with them? Are they good for EDC?
if you have a task that has to do with rope, some kind of twine or line, then I can understand why you might choose serrations.
Other than that, they aren't worth time - because a serrated knife will bind in other materials at the absolute worst time.
For the dragon slaying knife, I would say you need a TOPS Storm Vector or Cold Steel 3V Gurkha Kukri
@@sticksnstonespatriot1728 Knife Center carries the Longclaw sword from Game of Thrones, which I feel is the only right answer.
Hello, DCA
I’m looking for something not necessarily tactical but cool and bad you know what. My favorite knife is the XM-18 have two but not looking for a 24 or other RHK product. 3.5”-4” blade, at least .50 thick on the handle, and a price ceiling of $800.
Looking at a Spartan Blades SHF but would like to see what you come up with sense I picked up that Brisa you highlighted in the hidden gems video and love it. Thanks!
Love these videos KC. Question: wikipedia says that G10 is flammable and can "burn violently". Do you think this is a real concern in, say, camping or cooking or rescue scenarios?
For the guy with the PM2 looking for a secondary knife: maybe a Dragonfly? Or even a SAK like a PioneerX
The first thing I thought of as I read the question was a SAK. They are a great compliment to a larger locking blade.
Hey DCA, what are your favorite fixed blades under 2oz?
Can you explain all the grinds? Thanks
Opening and closing a knife when you pick it up is the equivalent to pulling the trigger on a drill or impact when you pick it up
Hey Dave, a question for ya.
Is there an easy reliable way to work out the angle of a factory edge?
I have seen those circular gauges, do they work?
I know some knife makers advertise this but it is not always readily apparent.
Keep up the great work, luv this channel.
One day I wish DCA would showcase a knifes drop shut action. I know some people don’t care about that but many people do.
Very serious question: which blade steel inflicts the most damage?
The sharper one🤷🏻♀️
I need a Stretch 2 XL in K390!
True that 💪😜