Thanks for the updates! Let's hope there is better weather this summer. I like that you show us the good with the bad, as it helps me learn. One viewer mentioned disliking clay pots. I love them in the summer when they are outside and I can water them every day, if necessary. However, when I have to bring them inside to my dry winter house, clay pots are a pain. I don't have very many orchids so I can manage, but it keeps me from buying more (which may be a good thing!)
Yes, I’m a big fan of how quickly they dry as well! I definitely understand why they would be annoying if you want to water every now and then, though.
I have always felt that repotting stimulates the orchid and roots especially when the media has broken down quite a bit...I definitely think you made it very happy Stephen 😊
I just started repotting all my cattleya’s. They have finally got to a mature stage where I can really get an idea how big they will grow. But I’m completely off those clay pots. They dry out the roots if you’re too late watering. And the with the small bases, they fall over too easily. I buy ceramic coated pots, some with holes and some without, depending how much water they need. Now I’m not racing around trying to keep them all wet enough in our hot summers and they don’t fall over. This is my husbands thumbnail. He loves my orchids too, but I have the green thumb.
Glad you're posting more videos. I have a catasetum question since you sent me down that rabbit hole with your PET method video. I have a cane that was rotting at the base and was told to cut it off and the cane will get a growth at which time to put it in moss. What do I do with the cane in the meantime? lay it down, sit it upright? Any advice?
I think seedlings do better in compot out of flask than individually because they get a humidity boost and the media stays moister. I find Phals do far better if put in a compot for a year versus potted individually.
If you google’the Rock Lilly Man’, who used to post about care of his vast Den.Speciosum collection. I have the white ‘hillii’ variety native to N.S.W. As you move up to Queensland the Den. speciosums become lemon to dark yellow varieties which are less cold tolerant. I live in South Queensland & have ‘hillii’, ‘speciosum’, ‘grandiflora’ varieties. All can tolerate 7 deg C in our winter. Average night temp. is 10 deg C in Winter. I hope this info. is useful.
Hey Stephen, I grow my speciosum (including curvicaule) outdoors, full sun, all year round in Sydney Australia and would say we probably dip to 5 degrees Celsius (41 Fahrenheit) as our absolute lowest through the year (usually it's dry this time too, or at least I keep my speciosum drier), and it would hit 40 degrees Celsius as our occasional top (104 Fahrenheit) where I got a few spot burns last year. Once they're acclimatised they're relatively bulletproof, as you said. They love to feed and drink in growth and slow down a little in winter. It's also true var. curvicaule is from mid-north QLD in more tropical areas of Aus but your 'Windermere' is a well known speciosum var. speciosum that does occur naturally down the east coast in temperate regions on sandstone ridges. Sure to be a great cross, much like 'Moonmere'.
@@SVKLOrchids I've badly damaged some of mine moving from an undercover greenhouse or indoors to direct full sun and outdoor temperature simply because they're leaves aren't used to/adapted to the light and conditions. You can usually tell this by how flexible they are (I find mine to be almost double the rigidity of my catts). A season in that environment though and not even our hottest summer day last year in full sun could kill it (yes I did water still that day), just burned off leaves not a pseudobulb lost. Shouldn't have a problem in Texas summer but I would definitely still protect them from the absolute cold you guys may get
I have a Cattleya purpurata cross. It has 3 sheaths and one looks like it’s drying out. How long does it take for buds to develop? I’m giving it plenty of water and fertilizer and maximum light. I’m thinking it’s getting too much light since the leaves are very light green in color.
I would keep it in its current location! Reducing the light could prevent blooms. It’ll bloom when the time is ready! Pure purpurata blooms in late spring to early summer. A cross could be anytime!
I was just wondering about the coerulea seedlings, and the purpurata. How did the cup alternative to the SphagBag work out? I'm trying something similar on a mossiae right now.
@@mipogrow ohhh, I was wondering! lol The cup didn’t do anything for the Rhyncholaelia but did work for the Catasetum and the Cycnoches. I’ll use this system again if needed.
@@SVKLOrchids I'm trying an aircone pot over a layer of leca with water just below the top of the leca. I'm giving the plant a daily hour long soak in my usual fertilizer solution(Cal/Mag, kelp max, quantum total, fertilizer and mycorrhizae) so far it's working. I was hoping for root growth, but there are four new pseudobulbs growing. Hopefully they will sprout roots soon so I can get it into a pot.🤞
@@SVKLOrchids Thanks for the response. I recently purchased one and it grew like crazy this winter - unlike the rest of my Catts. I will have to wait and see what it does when summer finally arrives.
Aço is the color variety. "Crente" is a slang, unofficial way of calling someone who follows some Protestant or Evangelical Christianism. It is a term used either by others or by themselves to refer to this group and it translates to "believer". This plant must have been originally found by the 'trade" when in possession of a "crente". Whatever the story may have been, the name stuck.
Nice to see your orchids doing well. I hope this year the weather will be kinder to us.
Thank you! I’ll start on a better shade system this weekend!
Great news, your nobilior has buds😄🥳🎊I can't wait to see what flowers it has.
They’re coerulea! I’ll show them on Saturday!
Thanks for the updates! Let's hope there is better weather this summer. I like that you show us the good with the bad, as it helps me learn.
One viewer mentioned disliking clay pots. I love them in the summer when they are outside and I can water them every day, if necessary. However, when I have to bring them inside to my dry winter house, clay pots are a pain. I don't have very many orchids so I can manage, but it keeps me from buying more (which may be a good thing!)
Yes, I’m a big fan of how quickly they dry as well! I definitely understand why they would be annoying if you want to water every now and then, though.
I have always felt that repotting stimulates the orchid and roots especially when the media has broken down quite a bit...I definitely think you made it very happy Stephen 😊
Yes, repotting can definitely refresh a plant!
Thanks for the update Steven!
Glad to do it! 😃
Everything looks great! Sometimes they do some strange things that we have no rhyme or reason why, but it's spectacular when they do! 😂😊
Yes, there’s always something new to learn with these!
I just started repotting all my cattleya’s. They have finally got to a mature stage where I can really get an idea how big they will grow. But I’m completely off those clay pots. They dry out the roots if you’re too late watering. And the with the small bases, they fall over too easily. I buy ceramic coated pots, some with holes and some without, depending how much water they need. Now I’m not racing around trying to keep them all wet enough in our hot summers and they don’t fall over. This is my husbands thumbnail. He loves my orchids too, but I have the green thumb.
Yes, unglazed clay definitely dries quickly! I hit them with water everyday in summer.
Well done 👏 😅
Thank you! 😃
Glad you're posting more videos. I have a catasetum question since you sent me down that rabbit hole with your PET method video. I have a cane that was rotting at the base and was told to cut it off and the cane will get a growth at which time to put it in moss. What do I do with the cane in the meantime? lay it down, sit it upright? Any advice?
You can lay it down on some damp (not wet) moss to help prevent moisture loss
thank you, much appreciated@@SVKLOrchids
@@JaninaCarlona No problem!
Beautiful.
Thank you!
I think seedlings do better in compot out of flask than individually because they get a humidity boost and the media stays moister. I find Phals do far better if put in a compot for a year versus potted individually.
That’s sounds right. I do try the single pots every now and then because some of the big growers do it. Then I realize single pots suck. lol
If you google’the Rock Lilly Man’, who used to post about care of his vast Den.Speciosum collection. I have the white ‘hillii’ variety native to N.S.W. As you move up to Queensland the Den. speciosums become lemon to dark yellow varieties which are less cold tolerant. I live in South Queensland & have ‘hillii’, ‘speciosum’, ‘grandiflora’ varieties. All can tolerate 7 deg C in our winter. Average night temp. is 10 deg C in Winter. I hope this info. is useful.
This is helpful! Thank you!
Hey Stephen, I grow my speciosum (including curvicaule) outdoors, full sun, all year round in Sydney Australia and would say we probably dip to 5 degrees Celsius (41 Fahrenheit) as our absolute lowest through the year (usually it's dry this time too, or at least I keep my speciosum drier), and it would hit 40 degrees Celsius as our occasional top (104 Fahrenheit) where I got a few spot burns last year. Once they're acclimatised they're relatively bulletproof, as you said. They love to feed and drink in growth and slow down a little in winter. It's also true var. curvicaule is from mid-north QLD in more tropical areas of Aus but your 'Windermere' is a well known speciosum var. speciosum that does occur naturally down the east coast in temperate regions on sandstone ridges. Sure to be a great cross, much like 'Moonmere'.
Shoot, I wonder why it did so poorly in the sun and cold here?
@@SVKLOrchids I've badly damaged some of mine moving from an undercover greenhouse or indoors to direct full sun and outdoor temperature simply because they're leaves aren't used to/adapted to the light and conditions. You can usually tell this by how flexible they are (I find mine to be almost double the rigidity of my catts). A season in that environment though and not even our hottest summer day last year in full sun could kill it (yes I did water still that day), just burned off leaves not a pseudobulb lost. Shouldn't have a problem in Texas summer but I would definitely still protect them from the absolute cold you guys may get
@@zacrobertson7257 Ok, good to know! Thanks!
I have a Cattleya purpurata cross. It has 3 sheaths and one looks like it’s drying out. How long does it take for buds to develop? I’m giving it plenty of water and fertilizer and maximum light. I’m thinking it’s getting too much light since the leaves are very light green in color.
I would keep it in its current location! Reducing the light could prevent blooms. It’ll bloom when the time is ready! Pure purpurata blooms in late spring to early summer. A cross could be anytime!
Completely forgot about getting the flask from Troy when I went there a couple years ago… wonder if he has any deflasked now?
I’m not sure if he kept any! I think I saw the nobilior in the video you made when visiting.
@@SVKLOrchids yeah. Should have grabbed it then. I did notice those! Didn’t know they were yours back then.
@@orchidsbythelake Hopefully lots of people are growing them, so they should be available from private growers soon!
I was just wondering about the coerulea seedlings, and the purpurata.
How did the cup alternative to the SphagBag work out?
I'm trying something similar on a mossiae right now.
Code rules?
@@SVKLOrchids sorry intuitive text 'helped' me.
Coerulea which it now would like to change to costumes.
@@mipogrow ohhh, I was wondering! lol The cup didn’t do anything for the Rhyncholaelia but did work for the Catasetum and the Cycnoches. I’ll use this system again if needed.
@@SVKLOrchids I'm trying an aircone pot over a layer of leca with water just below the top of the leca. I'm giving the plant a daily hour long soak in my usual fertilizer solution(Cal/Mag, kelp max, quantum total, fertilizer and mycorrhizae) so far it's working. I was hoping for root growth, but there are four new pseudobulbs growing. Hopefully they will sprout roots soon so I can get it into a pot.🤞
@@mipogrow That sounds like good plan! 4 new bulbs should translate into a lot of new roots
I have a Cattlea for about 5 yrs.now it never bloom.it's purple & white .
( help )
Usually, a non-blooming plant needs more light
I have it where the sun rises but there 's a tall tree at the same spot.
Thank you for your reply. 😁
I read somewhere that the C. Lueddemanniana grows in winter. Is this correct?
It grows year round for me!
@@SVKLOrchids Thanks for the response. I recently purchased one and it grew like crazy this winter - unlike the rest of my Catts. I will have to wait and see what it does when summer finally arrives.
@@Emilio-sq6gb No problem!
I'm not a fan of our Aussie native dendrobiums maybe canaliculatum I just find they all look the same to me
Ha! Fair enough!
Did you say pads?
Aço is the color variety. "Crente" is a slang, unofficial way of calling someone who follows some Protestant or Evangelical Christianism. It is a term used either by others or by themselves to refer to this group and it translates to "believer". This plant must have been originally found by the 'trade" when in possession of a "crente". Whatever the story may have been, the name stuck.
Oh wow, I would never have known that!!! Thank you for the info!