Tesla Wall Charger installation (Gen 3)
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 7 сен 2024
- In this video I install a Tesla Generation 3 wall connector / charger. I use 6/3 wire and a 60 amp circuit breaker. The mobile charger is no longer included with a Tesla so you either have to buy a mobile charger or a wall connector / charger. The Wall Charger does charge faster and makes more sense. Elon Musk has posted this and says statistics show that mobile chargers are not being used.
Please do at your own risk, this is not electrical advise, and if you are unsure please hire a licenced electrician in your area. Electrical codes vary from area to area, and what may pass in one area may fail in another. This video is for entertainment purposes.
Torque screwdriver on Amazon
amzn.to/3QsQGE9
#garageking
Perfect tutorial. The charger placement and surface the same as what we're doing, so that was super helpful. What's best is that you answered questions that Tesla didn't, which is, can you provision non-Tesla vehicles. Thanks for the great vid. Cheers.
Thanks so much, really appreciate the comment :) thank you !!
Excellent video. Thank you for reminding me that there’s a reason I’m not a handyman. Looks like I’ll be calling an electrician. 😂😂
Thanks for the comment, hope you are having a good weekend !!
Please do not mislead people!
Here in US your whole proses is code violation
1-you can’t run romex wire in the conduit
2-you can’t tape any color wire to ground wire (specially in the size that you are using)the ground wire should be bare that you already had it or be green.
In your condition you should use a single conductor which is gonna be 6awg thhn (black and red) that is rated up to 75amp and 10awg green (for ground) and it’s gonna be more efficient and cheaper than romex wire that you used.
Thanks for the comment. I’m not in the US so I understand the codes vary country to county. I did put a disclaimer that everyone should check their local codes as it’s impossible to do a video that is shown worldwide and meet all codes worldwide. I think the biggest thing in this video was to show all the mounting. I do appreciate your comment and see where you are coming from.
Actually you can run Romex through conduit in certain situations-
ruclips.net/video/OeuWsYy6bvE/видео.html
I found a video where you can run Romex amzn.to/3loPWnz This is a dry location and the pipe is big. When the weather gets warmer I'm going to strip the wire I used for a ground, this way its bare, that part does bother me.
@@GarageKing You can definitely run Romex in conduit, but you cannot reidentify black wire for the grounded (white) or grounding (green). The CEC states that, for 6 AWG or smaller, the grounded and grounding wires must be of appropriate color along their entire length. This installation would fail inspection in Canada.
I know, and I followed up with another comment where I pulled the wire and stripped it, so the white wire is now bare copper. Appreciate the comment. @@k2line706
You may want to use the regular ground there is a reason why the ground is sized smaller than the conductors and it is to act as a safety measure, the bigger you go it is not going to protect the circuit as fast. There is a Table that tells you what size ground should be used per AMP load also Romex is never allowed in conduit unless specified per manufacture like legrand metal wire mold
Hey Thanks for the comment, I actually stripped the wire and re-ran, it was easy as it was a pretty straight run, also no white wire being used anymore for the ground. Thanks!!
I would be interested in how a larger ground conductor doesn't protect the circuit as fast. Grounding conductors are allowed to be sized smaller as they are not intended to carry current under normal conditions. They are relied upon to carry fault current long enough to open the branch circuit protector, thus there is no concern for overheating.
Depending on the country, you can run nm cable in conduit, here in the US that change was made to the 2002 NEC I believe. It will be MUCH harder to pull, but it is an acceptable method.
@@hopkinsfamily1891 I think it is because there are other more bad faults that you can get on the ground, and you don't ever want the ground wire carrying full current.
Lol this make no sense.
1) Per NEC, Romex can indeed go in conduit as long as it is not outdoors (a garage is ok and common). 2) the reason you can use a smaller ground wire is to save cost. Going up in size doesn't decrease the functionality of the ground.
Great video, my take away is im going to need an electrician lol.... however thanks for breaking things down so i could really see what is involved.
Thank you for the great comment, and hope you enjoyed your weekend. Not sure which Tesla you bought, I got the Y. Love it !!
Thanks for making this video. I used a torque screwdriver and wiggled the wire. Couldn't believe how tight 50 in/lbs is!
Thank you for the comment, and yup you are right 50 in/lbs is quite tight, that is the equivalent to just over 4 ft/lbs which is a lot for those little terminals. Enjoy your Sunday : )
Perfect! This helped tremendously! Thank you. Chris
Thank you for the comment
Excellent video... Thanks for posting, it helped a lot.. there is one thing that you may want to be aware of, not all #6 AWG wires are rated for the same amperage/temperature... meaning, #6 Romex is rated for 55AMP Max, requiring a 50AMP breaker.... yes, the max amps coming from the charger should only be 48, but in a worst case scenario, the wires would start heating up before the breaker had the chance to trip.
The case where a #6AWG could be used with a 60AMP breaker, if you use THHN single conductor wire (Run three single conductors inside conduit from the electrical panel to the charger)
Thanks for the comment and you are right. I later did strip the main sheathing (that holds the 3 wires together) and ran them separately. Corrected the ground as well, to just a bare copper wire. I rarely use over 20amps as the car charges every day at night, so I never need a lot, I just top it up to 80% each day. Most days I'm using about 9-12amps for overnight charge when the hydro is cheap.
Great video. A lot of negative comments about code violations, but the code was written to protect the idiots in society. Nothing done here is a safety concern. The only issue is if someone in the future removes the Tesla connector and used the circuit for a full 60amp load. ... but that's their problem for not doing their due diligence.
Thank you kindly for the very down to earth reply, truly appreciate it, and happy Saturday to you !!
interesting comment in the beginning of the video: we are ok installing wire that can handle 55A on a 60A circuit breaker.
That just sounds wrong. #4 wiring is required with a 60A fuse. If you want to use #6 wire, have to go down with the breaker rating to keep it safe.
The breaker should trip before the wire reaches its max rating.
I know you are right, I went by the Tesla instal manual and used 6 gauge wire with a 60amp breaker. Thinking about it, the wall connecter will transfer a max of 48 amps. So 48amp at 125% gives you 60amp for the breaker, and this meets code. The 48amp max will keep the wire under its 55amp rating. I know it sounds funny, but that's how I'm interpreting it. I hear you about the 55amp wire on the 60amp breaker, but that wire will never carry 55 as we are limited to 48. Thanks for the comment
That pipe cutter looks so handy. Good installation tutorial.
Thanks so much, I do appreciate the comment. Tesla is coming soon. Much better for the environment :)
I wish someone would demonstrate a installation like this for people who don't have enclosed garages,
my garage is now a enclosed bedroom with only 120 Volt regular USA household outlets, and my breaker box is located on the outside of the house
over 60 feet away from where I would place the wall charger in the converted garage bedroom, and most likely place the charging handle out the window
each time to charge the car, but nobody on RUclips demonstrates how to overcome such challenges, all these videos assume EV owners all own or must own enclosed garages,
and not everyone the USA probably should have one of these installed outdoors due to severe heat or severe cold degrradation concerns, like I would have out here in the
southwest, (I personally am distrustful of any manufacturer's claims these can work properly year after year in 100 plus temperatures) I'de rather have only the
smallest portion of the cable and handle exposed to the outdoors temps at night where the warmest it get's is 90 degrees and coldest it get's is like 38 degrees,
(this is true for much of the southwest for most of the extreme temp swings of New Mexico, Arizona, UTAH, Nevada, and Southern, CA ) (even Texas and Florida are very humid , are these chargers and cables installed outdoors going to able to withstand that much humidity as well?)
Hi There, if I read right yours would just be the opposite, you could run the conduit on the outside, and then drill though the wall like I did, but mount the charger on the inside. For me breaker box on inside, and charger on outside. For you breaker box on outside, and charger on inside. Also if you are curious the wall charger is still working great being mounted on the outside and I'm in Canada (some tough weather) Also because you have such a long run I would look at wire size. You may want to step up. Also run individuals wires in the conduit. I later stripped the sheathing off mine so they are now all individual wires so they have more breathing room to dissipate heat. Thanks for the comment
One of the best tesla wall connector videos that I have seen, and I have been searching. Thank you! I used much of the same things you did but to save money I went with the 6/2 wire.
Thanks for the great comment !!! I would have bought 6/2 like you, but it was not available where I am, plus I used extra wire I had from a former hot tub install. Thanks again !!!
Using 6/2 would have been the correct way to go.
6/3 or 4/3 is better. If you ever sell your home, future owners with EVs other than a Tesla may have an EVSE that uses a 4 wire configuration with a neutral wire.
Why make them go through rewiring your 3 wire circuit? Future-proof it.
@@dvader3263 It's a bit too late now! 😂
FWIW, the 6/2 is doing fine - no heat or V Drop issues. Also FWIW, the entire industry is moving towards Tesla's NAC connection and by the end of 2025, it will be rare to find anything else. Kinda like the VHS/Beta thing.
Cheers!
So can i use my existing Romex 6/3 wire from my NEMA 14-50 outlet i installed, if i change the circuit breaker in the panel to a 60amp breaker?
You’ll notice in the sub panel the neutral and ground buses aren’t bonded. This is only done in a main panel.
You are correct, and the only panel bonded is in the basement, that's the 200amp main, then I have a 100sub in the basement, and the 100sub in the garage.
only done at the first disconnect, which is not always at the main panel.
This video inspired me ... Inspired me to call an electrician
Well at least you got something out it : )
The mobile charger can charge at 30kwh but you need to install a 50amp nema outlet and then buy the $35 adapter cable from Tesla to get higher output.
Hey thanks for the comment. The mobile charger is excellent. The one thing the wall charger really has is that you can turn it on and off whenever you want and you can adjust the amps so it’s very customizable from your phone.
The sub panel feeder cable connector is backwards. The lock nut should be inside the panel, not outside, and the clamp should be on the outside, not inside. Good video.
Hey Thanks for the comment, appreciate your knowledge, that one I'll have to take up with the electrician who installed the subpanel. They were licensed by the builder contracted to construct the house. Good eye !!!
Great video. I can just get my handyman to do this who has a ton of experience with electrical work. Hardest part for me is I’ll have to have the cable run through my ceiling in my living room, and then down inside drywall in one of my bedroom closets to get down into the garage, as my panel is on the 2nd level. He can do all the drywall plastering and painting afterwards.
Thanks for the comment, yup that is a lot of work. I'm surprised your panel is on the second level. He is going to get dirty running that wire LOL :)
@@GarageKing ya it’s an incredibly inconvenient setup. I guess the developers back in 2001 didn’t really predict the EV craze 20 years down the road. I’m hoping he can just fish the cable through without having to cut open a lot of drywall.
@@BengalTiger47 Right !!! The 6 gauge is not the easiest to fish around. My main panel box is in the basement and I had to go through the ceiling (before the basement was finished) to get that 6 gauge out to the back of the house for a hot tub, and it was not easy as that wire is pretty thick. Let's hope he can find a way to make it the least intrusive.
no need a neutral for 220vac anyways....its perfect for ground applications just makes sure its labeled and taped green with no white showing also you can use a green heatshrink.
Thanks for the comment, much appreciated. I did get flamed a bit for using that neutral as a ground lol :)
Would he have been able to use 6/2 wire and use the supplied grounding conductor?
Excellent instructional video.
Thank you !!
I can't believe what they are charging to do installs. I did mine and my neighbors. Very simple. Less than an hour total
Oh I know, its pretty crazy, but that's what it is. I'm glad you got yours all installed !!
Very nice conduit job, but do not do what is shown in this video in the US.
I don't know about Canada, but for US viewers, please:
Do not put Non Metallic (NM-B) cable in a conduit, except for a very short run when needed to protect the cable. What is shown in this video is much longer than is allowed. NM-B cable is designed to be in free air, the outer sheath of the cable, in combination with the conduit, can trap the heat generated when current is passing through the wire.
Do not use wire rated in the US for 55 amps for non continuous loads for a circuit which will have a 48 amp continuous load, such as #6 NM-B cable. It is only rated for 55 amps for non-continuous use (loads that are on for less than 3 hours). For continuous loads, such as EV charging, it is only rated for 44 amps (which is 80% of 55 amps). The rule which allows the next size breaker (60 amp breaker) does not magically make the wire good for 60 amps non continuous, 48 amps continuous.
You absolutely cannot use a white wire for your ground in the US, even if you mark it as shown in this video. Do not do that!
If you want a circuit good for 48 amps continuous, use #6 THHN/THWN-2 wire in conduit or in metal clad cable. This type of wire is good for 65 amps. What makes it good for the higher current is the type of insulation; the actual copper wire is the same. The video shows he used conduit, so if THHN/THWN-2 wires (individual wires) had been used, then it would be good for 65 amps.
Or, if you want to use #6 NM, put it on a 50 amp breaker, and configure the Tesla Wall Connector for a 50 amp breaker which will give you 40 amp charging.
Again, what I state above is for the US National Electric Code. No idea if what is shown complies with Canadian electric code.
Thanks for the thorough explanation, and I mention in the description that different countries have different codes. In some places you can run NM-B in conduit if its dry, above ground and the cross section area is less that a certain percentage. The conduit I used is quite large, I should have stripped the white wire back all the way so no insulation and then it would have been fine for a ground.
@@GarageKing Understand, and noted your "for educational purposes" disclaimer but I just wanted your US viewers to understand what is required in the US since not everyone may pay attention to that!
Curious why you did not use THHN/THWN-2 (or Canadian equivalent) since you went with conduit all the way from your panel to the wall connector?
@@ericjorgensen4826 Great question, and the reason was I got rid of the hot tub in the back yard so I had quite a bit of the 6/3 from that. The price of copper wire here in Canada requires a second mortgage, its expensive. THHN/THWN would have been the choice had I not had the hot tube wire.
Like! Awesome tutorial! Thank you for the knowledge. This was good for me to see (and listen to), as I haven't started looking to electrical cars as yet.
Thanks so much for the comment, electric cars are the way of the future so good to know this. Thank you again :)
you should be able to pull the wire through when the conduit is aseembled. If it's tough, then you need larger size conduits.
Thanks for the comment, I got it through. I think I used 2 1/4" conduit for that very reason.
YOU CAN NOT USE #6 ROMEX WITH 48AMP SETTING. YOU MUST USE SINGLE WIRES IN A CONDUIT !!!
I followed up and let everyone know that I stripped the wires and ran them separately in the conduit.
Wow Beautiful video my Dear. Keep uploading more videos. Love to see your work. Thank you for sharing :)19
Thank you, and happy Saturday to you !!!
What I've been reading about wire size is that the wire you run has to be oversized. So if you're running your charger for 60amp meaning a max of 48amp is running through your wire still needs to be rated for the full 60 amps
Yes you are correct and if you use 6 gauge copper, it is rated anywhere between 55-75 amps depending on its temperature rating, and how it's run. I should have covered that in the video and it would have clarified a lot of things. I changed mine to individual cables in the conduit.
@@GarageKing I've just been trying to wrap my head around what would be required to do this for our home, as I've seen such differing information on the topic
Thanks for replying!
@@tenorsax856 Hope I helped, and I think the reason there is so much variance is the electrical codes vary between jurisdictions, I followed the Tesla instructions on mine, and then ran separate wires afterwards which was easy to do in my case as it was a pretty straight run. The thing no one talks about is the actual charging amperage used. Mine rarely uses over 30 amps. Most of the time I'm between 10-20 as I trickle charge my car every night. I think charging at 48amps every time is hard on the batteries, why rush it? Just top it up to about 80% every night.
Perfectly done mate. I now know how it is done. I have all the tools and about to order the charger. Now I am not sure on one thing. Which one to get the universal or the regular Tesla wall connector. 😆 lol
Hey thanks for the comment, you sound like you know which one you will buy LOL :)
sheathed wiring through conduit......lovely
Yup you caught it, that's the one thing that could have been done better
@@GarageKing luckily that’s a pretty straight run of conduit and it’s indoors. You could easily swap it out if it was ever called out. Nice install, appreciate the video
@@spectrepro Thanks for the comment, and this summer I think I'm going to swap it out anyway. It really wound not take long to do :)
@@GarageKing Why not simply strip the sheathing off the conductors? Disconnect, pull out of conduit & slice the sheathing off. Shouldn't need to spend more money on new wiring. The individual conductors inside the sheathing are the proper gauge so should be good to use.
@@MikeSiemens88 You bet, I was just going to pull it and strip it for the Tesla wall connector. The code actually allows for sheathing to be left on as long as its in a dry area and you have a certain cross section (can't be tight) You have to strip in wet or below grade applications. I release another vid tomorrow where I install a Wattsavings charger and just strip the wire and then put into conduit. Thanks for the comment and happy Friday to you.
Quick and to the point! Thanks for the video.
Thank you for the great comment !!
Great video, helped me so much!
Thank you for the great comment and glad I could help !!
I knew you were in Canada the moment you said Hydro ! :D Love the video. Thank you. May I ask why you installed it outside? is the charger weatherproof? specially for Canadian winter?
Hey there and thanks for the comment :) I have a classic in the garage so the Tesla has to go outside. The charger is waterproof and has made it through one Canadian winter with no issues. I did mount it between the houses so its not exposed to direct sunlight, and the rain kinda misses it, but it is rated for outdoor.
@@GarageKing sweet. are you happy woth your Tesla so far? I am considering getting model 3 RWD to replace my diesel ML350. Did RWD ever got you stuck or fish tailed in Canadian winter?
@@mistrykr I have the Model Y so its AWD. I think Tesla just lowered the prices and the Y was lowered more than the 3, so I think the Y is the sweet spot if you can swing it. The Y handles great, the heater comes on really quick (no gas motor to warm up) and it does not affect the range as much as people say. I plug mine in ever night and top it up to about 400kms (80%). I usually charge around 15ams max as I charge over night (cheaper electricity rate) I'm really happy with my purchase, but the one thing is (and I hear they are getting better) is the fit of all the panels, but they have some adjustment to line things up. I have about 10000kms on it, so about 6000miles and so far it has not needed anything. My neighbour has a model 3 RWD and he survives, although he does slide around a bit when we get a good snowfall. I still have my gas powered toys, but for daily driving the Tesla can't be beat :)
I have 100amp panel. i am buying model 3 rwd. will I be okay if I add 60amp breaker knwing it will only draw 32amp max?
@@mistrykr Hey there, you should check with a local electrician to make sure as I don't know what else you are running off the panel box. Normally you are fine, but you can't have more that a 100amp draw with everything combined or you will trip the main breaker, so it depends whats running when you are charging. I have a 200amp main panel, and the sub panel in the garage is 100amp. You are right, the Model 3 RWD will only draw 32amps, and you know technically you could buy a cheaper 40amp Level 2 (240V) charger and it would be just as fast as the wall connector as your car will not take more than 32amp. I think people get a bit hung up on the charge speed. I top mine off every night to 80% and I'm around 9amps, that's all I use and I trickle charge it overnight. If you are in a hurry then I guess the speed matters, but just top off every night and you are fine on slow charging, which is probably better for the battery anyway. Also make sure you use 6 gauge wire.
I understand why you did the video to help people save some money but unfortunately a few things are not by the National Electrical Code (NEC)
You should have used the bare ground wire, it is a code violation to use a conductor that is white for anything other then a neutral (grounded conductor) a grounding conductor must be green or bare. For the ground wire it is not carrying any current unless there is a fault. You can not tag the white with tape marking it green.
The Romex can not be sleeved in the conduit. You need to use single conductors with 2 #6 THHN conductors and 1 #10 green is what’s required by code. There are a few other things but those are minor.
Thanks for the feedback, I really didn't know about not using the neutral. That's news to me, but I can see why, I just thought use the biggest wire and tape it, but I do see your point. As for the sleeving I see your point as well. I used the wire that was formerly used for the hot tub in the back yard (thats where it came from) Thanks for the feedback !!
@@GarageKing it’s all good. You learned something new today. The NEC has a lot of different rules to make everything safe. Some I don’t agree with because I think it’s the manufacturers pushing there products to make more money. But as a electrician I have to follow them.
I like when people do things by code so it’s safe
@@stanley4006 I see a lot of scary stuff being stuff done on RUclips with these chargers. I'm a retired union electrician in the Chicagoland area. All homes in the Chicago and the collar counties are done with EMT. I never really worked with romex that much just when I had to work in the farther out west union areas (461). It's way easier to rope a house but the splicing sucks. I could splice a EMT house way faster than a rope house. I agree with you on manufactures pushing things. I last roughed a house in 2009. We installed ARCH fault breakers in just the bedrooms now I see the new code the Whole house is ARCH/GFI breakers basically. A combo single pole 15 is around 60 bucks, do the math on that for a house.
Also this. PEOPLE NM-B is rated at 60 degrees (C) so 55 AMPS. When the insurance company checks after the fire and sees the wrong wire size used Flo is going to deny. Change to a 50 amp and adjust the settings on the charger. A few less miles per hour is worth it.
Thanks for the comment, just saw this now. I usually charge at 10-20amps. The car slow charges overnight when the hydro is cheap.
Note GarageKing appears to be in Canada and this cable used in the conduit appears to be NMWU for underground wet applications since he mentioned using for hot tub install previously but I believe has lower temperature rating of 60 degrees instead of NMD90 which can go up to 90 degrees hence the name.
I noticed in our local Rona Stockyards location in Toronto the black sheathed NMWU which appears to be thicker than NMD90 (which is typically white sheath cable - as most cable is from Southwire around here) that I saw at the HomeDepot Stockyards (but hefty price - I went to a supply house for much cheaper)
I believe Garage King said he removed sheathing which shouldn’t have done because they are not labelled as individual THHN/THWN/RW90 type conductors. He said he is running lower amperage but Tesla wall connector install calls for 90 degree #6 as this may be fire hazard at higher amperage
Hey thanks for the comment, you are right I used NMWU that was left over. I think the reason for the 60 degree rating is the insulation is thicker so I did some research and stripped the wire as they will run cooler as they are not all tightly bound together anymore. They are not individually labelled, but I think its still better they are separated, judgement call on my part but I think its better this way. The conduit the wire is run in is plenty large so no issues with fill space. Charge amperage is never over 20 as I trickle it at night so most if the time I'm at 12amps to try to get longer battery life. There is no fire hazard the way I use the wall connector for charging as I charge way below the rated capacity (and I think everyone should to try to prolong their battery - another story). If someone is purchasing wire they are best to buy 6awg THHN or THWN and run it in a conduit.
Ny sharing big lykee 👌 thanks
Thank you :)
my side cutter was sooo weak when cutting the 6 gauge wire. i ended up using my bolt cutter. later i got a proper wire cutter when cut the wire with ease.
Hey thanks for the reply. Its amazing what good tools will do. Hope you are enjoying your Sunday !!!
Nice. But having it outside makes me wonder what would stop someone from borrowing it while you were out or at night? I guess a camera might, but some people don't care. :) I care. I wouldn't do that.
Its all been good for a while now. There are no screws that are easily exposed from the outside. The two security screws on the bottom are not easy to get to, and they can't be removed that easily. It would take quite the racket to get it out at night. Would not be easy. There are quite a few cameras around so its been good so far.
Clear, fast! Love your video.
Thanks so much for the great comment !!! Much appreciated :)
I don’t know about Canada, but in the US a grounded conductor can not be white, it has to be either green or green with a yellow stripe.
That is one thing I'm going to change, there was also some discussion about striping the sheathing off before I ran it into conduit, a lot of guys in the US said that was not right, until it was pointed out that it is allowed as long as its in a dry location, above ground, and not tight (so its ok) but as far as the ground, I'm going to strip that right back to copper so its only a copper wire, this way there would never be any confusion in the future. Thanks for the comment
Did you buy the additional breakers for the connection to the Tesla charger or did you use the ones that are already installed and not being used?
I bought an additional breaker, as the ones that were already installed were too small.
Nice video. Thanks. So you used a 6/3 wire with the ground, but cut off the ground and used the white neutral as the ground. I assume that means it is ok to buy 6/2 with a ground for this installation? Is that correct? Thanks.
Yes you are 100% correct, the only reason I used 6/3 was because I had extra from the hot tub. 6/2 is better as 6/3 is a waste (I just had extra)
Thanks for sharing. Would like to ask how much consumption (amps) requires for wiring connection (from DB) to Tesla gen 3 connector? Thanks
Hey There, it can vary depending on how you set up your Tesla, I trickle charge mine up every night and use form 8-12amps. I find that's enough to add about 100miles overnight. The max output is 48amps.
@@GarageKing thanks for replying 👍
@@hkklhkkl Anytime !!
Are you sure that there is no induced voltage on that unused ground wire? You'd better ground the other end at the panel board to prevent unwanted induced voltage.
Hey Thanks for the comment, and I'll one up that !!! I'm actually going to just remove it (its easy as its a straight line) and I'm going to strip it. It was done correctly as you can run romex in conduit if its above ground, dry, and not tight (like in a garage) but it does bother me a bit, plus I can reuse that extra wire for someting else. Thanks for the comment, I do appreciate it and if you look at the next charger I installed (its linked in that video) you will see I stripped the wire.
Main issue here is you can't run that type of cable through conduit. If you peeled the black sheathing off, then the inside is likely thhn or thwn which can be ran through conduit.
Yep, I peeled the sheathing off, also I stripped the neutral so its now bare for the ground not to get anyone confused. All you see now if red, black, and a copper. Appreciate the comment
No. 6 gauge wire ampacity depends on the temperature rating of the insulation. 60*C is 55A, 75*C is 65A, 90*C is 75A. Let’s say you use 90*C rated 6 awg copper wire. Once you land it on the 75*C rated breaker terminals, the conductors are derated to their 75*C ampacity, which is 65A. If the ampacity was actually 55A like you said, you would not be allowed to use those conductors on a 60A breaker as they wouldn’t be sufficiently protected. Breaker ratings are not allowed to exceed the ampacity of the conductors they’re protecting.
Hey Thanks for the comment, The charger outputs a max of 48amps and at the 1:48 mark you can see it says to use a 60amp breaker. (48*1.25=60) so I think that's why they want you to use the 60amp. So I think with THWN (90 degree) you would be fine as wall connector uses max 48 so at 125% that's 60, and our THWN is actually good for more than 60. I think I should have been more clear on the variance of types of 6 gauge wire. TW is only rated to 60 degrees, as is UF, but I doubt anyone would use UF, but you never know.
Hi i got the Gen 3 installed yesterday with 60amp wire 6gage, i also commissioned the connector. the web shows max 48 amp power however when connecting to 2024 Y its only charging with 32amp and there is no way to increase the amps. What should i do?
Hi There, I think, but I'm not sure, that the car can detect the circuit. DO you have a 60amp breaker in your panel box. You can adjust on the app, or in the car, if its stopping at 32 you might have a smaller breaker. Also just fyi I rarely go to 20, most of the time I charge between 10-15 as I top it up every day to 80% so I don't wait until its empty.
Question: the black and red wires are connected two different 110V AC lines (opposite phase to get 220V ?
Tesla Wall Connector manual specifies single phase !!! Please clarify.
Update few days later: my memory went bad. I remember now: the two hot wires are 110 VAC which phases are off by 180 degree. So together they give 220V single phase. If we put these two lines on an oscilloscope, we get two sine waves. Their crossing points are exactly when their voltages are at 0 (X axis). If the scope lead (one+ground) are connected to these two hot wires, we will see one single sine wave with the peaks reach 220V.
Hey There, as per Google "Two-phase service is an obsolete style of electrical power distribution ......" so there is only single phase and three phase. For the wall connector you need a two pole breaker and both wires go into the breaker, then you just need a ground.
@@GarageKing uhhhhh...he is correct in that the two conductors from panel and ultimately from the utility transformer are indeed 180 degrees out of phase...it is called single phase but....
@@jstone1211 I know, it was a naming convention I think.
#6thhn run in a conduit with 60 amp breaker is the correct answer
#6 thhn will do, and its good that it has a high temp rating. Thanks
Romex in conduit plus the 48 amps on 6 guage is wild. Youre looking to start a fire lol just call an electrician
I actually stripped the sheathing off, and updated it in the comments. Later I found that Romex was allowed in conduit providing you have enough space, I used large conduit so there was ample space, but I did wind up stripping the sheathing off anyway. It was pretty easy as it was a straight run.
I am an electrician in south CA. If anyone need to install a wall charger or outlet for Tesla like this or more complicate than this. I can help you with that for around 400-1000 dollars. Only the wall charger you need to prepared by yourself.🙃
Sounds like a pretty good deal :)
@@GarageKing Yes, but only available at weekends.
You have to strip the romex shealthing off i side of conduit.
10-4 that was the one error I did. I'm installing another charger in the garage (so I'll have one on the inside and one on the outside) and I'm going to fix that part. Its pretty easy to do. Thanks :)
That's incorrect. In Ontario where he's from they allow NMSC/NMD90 in a conduit as long as it meets the fill requirement
esasafe.com/assets/files/esasafe/pdf/Electrical_Safety_Products/Bulletins/12-19-16.pdf
Thanks for the video! I’m interested in your prep for mounting the box to the brick. What masonry bit size did you use for the pilot holes? And did you use the included screws or concrete rated fasteners?
Hey Thanks for the comment. I believe I used concrete rated fasteners, the blue ones you can get from Home Depot. I forget the size, but the screws came with the drill bit, I think they were called "Rock" or something like that. They would be equivalent to a #8 wood screw (about that size and about 2.5" deep so you can get past the first part of the brick, through the hollow and into the second part. You need to get into the second part because sometime part of the brick flakes away. Its still holding great !!! The only thing I should have done differently with the electrical was I should have stripped the sheathing off the wires so they are not held so tight when run in the conduit. I actually did that later on. I also stripped the white wire bare, so now the ground is bare. I got flamed from putting that tape on the white wire LOL:) Happy Sunday to you
It’s a simple project, but the thumbnail calls this a charger but it IS NOT A CHARGER. The charger is part of the car, or one of those massive DC objects with the high voltage signs. 😅 This thing is just a connector, which is why it’s a simple install.
you are 100% correct good sir, but the problem is everyone calls it a charger, including me until I read your comment. Good comment !!!!!
Where did you buy the cable? I’m doing the same thing right now. Sub panel and everything. Yours is really neat man
Hey there, got it from the local Home Depot
@@GarageKing sweet. Thanks
@@luisledesma5992 For sure, have a great weekend :)
Great video
Thanks for the comment, I do appreciate it !!
Nice explanation
Thank you for the comment
This is what my GEN3 wall charger says in Australia, there is no 48 Amp maximum
Current Output Range Maximum 32 A (adjustable by installer)
This manual applies to Wall Connectors identified by part number 1529455-**-*
Wow, unless they changed them, but 32amps is low so I'm surprised. Mind you I rarely use of 30 as I just trickle charge for a top up every night.
What you did is against electric code
You are not permitted to sleeve jacketed cables in a pvc conduit sysyem
Due to heat dissipation
When you enter pvc start w a box terminate cable to stranded conductors / install stranded conductors in conduit
Thanks for the comment, I stripped the wires and re-ran, it was a straight run so easy to do.
3/4 is to small diameter for 6-3 Romex, something else you can't use romer in pipe
Hey there and thanks for the comment, you are 100% correct and that's why I used 1 1/4" in plastic tubing designed for romex wire. I don't think it would even fit in 3/4" if you tried. Also, you are right never use romex in steel pipe, only run it in tubing designed for it.
The National Electric Code is a tricky beast. With so many spots hiding so many rules and it may not apply in your area at all.
The 2020 NEC section 334.15.(B). NM cable...exposed work...protection from damage.... RMC, IMC, EMT, SCHEDULE 80 PVC are all approved protection methods.
Things get really interesting when you need to size the conduit. 2020 NEC chapter 9 table 1 (page 70-695) is the section that allows calculations for conduit fill. #6 and a #10 in the same pipe, will they fit? This table has a note 2 (page 70-695) that claims the fill requirements should not apply to conduit for protection.....if it fits, it fits. Anyone that ever pulled wire will know you want plenty of room in your pipe, but these are the rules.
If I missed something please let me know.
@@keithharrington4595 Thanks so much for the comment. The one thing i learned about this video it people have watched it all over the world (I can see in my analytics) and I have learned the code varies between countries. Thanks very much
@@GarageKing Hey, bruh. The code varies from building department to building department. Section 90.4 in the NEC allows local jurisdictions to keep some, none, or all code rules and even add extras. I know North Dakota uses the NEC plus a supplement of about 60 Pages for extra rules they feel they need.
So, please take any and all feedback with an easy attitude. I try to give the sections because some places will allow for legal action against you license in their jurisdiction for bad/wrong advise. Also, with so many rules in different spots, the just add a receptacle to another one may be acceptable in one case and a violation in another room.
Have fun.
@@keithharrington4595 Thanks for the reply, you sound pretty down to earth, appreciate the comment and your insight !! Thanks again
Great video 👏👏👍
Thanks so much for the comment, much appreciated :)
Awesome video, new friend here. Very interesting.
Thank You :) and Happy Saturday to you :)
@@GarageKing my pleasure
Thank you for the extremely helpful video. :) What size PVC did you use? How did you decide the PVC to the charger?
Hey Thanks for the comment, you caught me at a good time when I'm checking messages :) To secure the PCV to the charger I just used that threaded connector you saw in the video, but put an extended it so it pushed out of the wall more, then you can just put a big nut on, you can get those nuts at Home Depot. For the PCV tubing I used 1 1/4" and 6/3 wire.
@@GarageKing Ty. Any what size drill bits did you use for the mounting screw holes?
@@joshuaglickman1871 Hey There, I used 1/4" masonry screws and I used a 3/16" hammer drill bit to make the holes :)
Why did you use a 6/3 conductor instead of the cheaper and just as effective 6/2. The ground doesn't carry any load and is a waste of copper
I know, but it was left over hot tub wire so the cost was better than purchasing more wire :)
what size of the drill bit that you used to drill the holes on the brick wall for mounting the box?
I bought those blue concrete bolts and usually they come with a drill bit. You have to get the drill bit to match the bolt size, so I recommend getting one of those boxes with like 10 bolts and is comes with a drill bit. You don't want to accidentally drill too big of a hole.........
shoulda used "FireFoam" for the that insulation around the pipe.
Very good comment and thanks for that
Hello. Is there a reason why you did not install the wall unit inside your garage? :)
Yes, the car is parked outside
I understand the ground goes on the far left side…but does it matter where the black and red wire go? The Tesla manual shows the red in the middle and the black on the right.
Any reason why you switched it up? Does it matter?
Red and Black are both hot, even though you may put them as the Tesla manual, on the circuit breaker they might be switched as its a two pole breaker so both the black and red go to the same breaker and could be in either position.
Great Video. Can you please post as to where you bought the wires ? May be a link to the purchase site
Hi There, I just bought them at Home Depot in bulk. That is the best way. You can pick up a roll on Amazon, but it may not be enough, or could be too much and the wire is VERY expensive so i would measure how much you need, add a few feet (like 6 so you don't run short in the panel box) and for error, and buy that amount. You don't have to use Home Depot, you could go to any place that sells electrical wire.
Great video - but 'a big bit'? It might be nice to know what size bit it is.
Hey There, I think the bit used to drill into the brick was 2 1/4" so I would have some room around the conduit.
Thanks!
Anytime !! @@jonathanstark8325
so you said you will fix the ground wire. could you put up video of fixed version? I have ground wire also and have no idea what to do with it
Yep, all I was going to do is strip the white neutral wire so its bare, everything else is the same. Its just so the white wire cover will not show. So you will have the red/black, and then a bare wire instead of the white one. The only reason I did it like that was I got the wire from the hot tube, its perfectly safe, but someone else could confuse that white wire with a neutral and its a ground (so it should be bare copper. I did tape it, but I should have just stripped the white sheathing off it. its still hooked up exactly the same way.
Now at the end you said you can set to what you want. Does that mean you can run it on a 50a circuit?
You can set it to what you want, but you are limited to the size circuit breaker you use. For example, if you use a 20amp circuit breaker you can set it to any amps 20 or under. Don't ask me how the car knows what circuit breaker you use, it just does somehow. Keep in mind the max draw is 48amp when using a 60amp breaker. The car regulates the current.
What is wire size connected to sub panel on 100A breaker?
I think the wire the builder used was 3 gauge copper as the run from the 100amp sub panel to the 200amp main panel is not very long (about 40 feet) That wire is thick and I felt sorry for the electrician as it is not easy to work with.
Hey hopefully you answer this soon,
You said 6 wire is good for 60 amps ?
My electrician friend is saying it's not #4 mandatory
My dad thinks the same, retired electrician
Can you speak on that
I have a dead hot tub in a 50 amp breaker currently,
Was just going to swing it over as is,
But it can go on a 60 amp ?
What's the speed difference
Hi There, that's not what I said. I said that #6 gauge wire can carry 55amps and Tesla tells us to use a 60 amp breaker. We are never actually using 60 amps. That is the 125% rule (48ampsX1.25=60). The tesla wall connector has load management built in and maxes out at 48amps so you should never use more than 48amps. Personally I always average around 15amps as I trickle charge it up to 80% each night. If you use a 50amp breaker you will limit the current to 40amps (don't ask me how the car knows, it just does). Also you should use THHN wire. Please google "6 gauge thhn wire max current" and the reply you get is..... "However, the regular ampacity of a 6 AWG copper wire that you are looking at in most installations is 55 to 65 amps. It can carry 55 amps, 60 amps, and 65 amps". If your friend is an electrician he is probably up to code so you can follow what he says. Also if your dad is a former electrician you are most likely in good hands. Sorry for the late reply, I'm on vacation LOL :)
@@GarageKing oh no worries thanks bro !!!
Sorry I was just driving and listening I must have nishewrd
Hahaha my dad is stumped and my other buddy Is like 3ed term now but lives in Hamilton,
Telling me to use shielded teck90 cable
My dad said call the electrical company and ask them what works in our area for code.
I have to go thru the garage, it can go up the wall all the way, or does it need to be in conduit ? In the house it's exposed on the ceiling
I'm definitely going to check that wire.
I have #6 nnvu, it used to be a hot tub, I thought it was on a 50 but it's actually a 40.
I don't know if it's worth it to use existing just for now ?
The wire is just inside rated I think,
not shielded,
he said it should be mechanically protected,
But it's right up a wall exposed on the ceiling of the garage
Good to know about the actual amps it draws.
Neither of them are local to me and can help me other than Facebook pictures
@@GarageKing and sorry to bombard you, but you said you were Canadian too ?
Someone said it needed to be inspected or it could void your insurance,
I asked my insurance lady and she said she's never heard of that.
I was an ncs and comfortable doing all the work,
Just the math I really wanna get right,
There's so much misinformation
Checking those links first thing g in the morning thank you and enjoy the vacation !
@@GarageKing oh damn that thhn the shit
The explanation of the 48 amps is super helpful
I was scared I was gonna burn the house down if I fuck this math up
My girl had the dishwasher on last night and I told her,
We're gonna have to watch that 😂💀
@@TheDJConnect Hey Thanks, in Ontario a homeowner is allowed to do the work himself/herself so you are ok to do it yourself if you wish. It's suppose to be inspected by the ESA in Ontario.
I am installing my charger and not sure what size concrete screws to use for mounting. What is recommended???
I can't remember exactly what size I used, but concrete screws are strong. I think I had so left over ones that I used on another project. I think they may have been 1/4" which is plenty. The biggest thing is if you are drilling into brick make sure they are long enough as the center of the brick has hollow parts.
Hi, thanks for sharing this video. Maybe i've already read some comments below about that, but i'm still in a doubt. Is it possible, with the Gen 3, to use any kind of dynamic load balance, or integration with solar systems to use production excess for example?
Hey There, there was nothing on integration with solar, at least not that I remember. I don't have a solar roof, but I sure wish I did and thanks for the comment :)
Is there an advantage to using 6 gauge for the ground?
No, not at all, its just that I had it.
Why is the charger outside the garage?
You won’t be parking your Tesla inside the garage?
The Tesla gets parked outside, there are other seasonal vehicles in the garage.
So if you use the bare copper as ground the way its supposed to be what do you do with the white?
Well the best thing to do is to take the sheathing off (that holds all the wire together) and what I did was run the red, black, and I stripped the white bare and used that as a ground so I only have 3 wires now. That I did a few months after.
Any other electricians here? Did anyone use silicone to seal the charger or you reckon factory seal will be ok for outdoors
I didn't use any silicone on the charger body as its waterproof, and has a rubber seal so the front seals to the rear, so as long as the conduit comes into the box then really there is no way for water to get inside. I have have the cover off and all looks well with no sign of any moisture.
@@GarageKing thanks mate
@@johnorr2241 Happy to be of service
@@GarageKing did you use a gland or screw to plane for conduit entry? 25mm was a bit loose , bottom entry..
@@johnorr2241 I came in through the rear of the box. I didn't come in through the bottom so I'm not sure if you were coming in from the bottom. To actually drill the box I just used a spade drill.
I know that the tesla charger only uses 48 amps so there's no risk here but shouldn't you use a 50 amp breaker so the breaker trips before the 6 gauge wire reaches its 55 amp limit and burns?
Yup you definitely could, and FYI I usually use about 10-12 amps to charge, that's what the car is set at and it tops up to 80% every night. I thought, probably like most people the more the better, but you really don't need 48amps if you top up every night. Also the wire won't suddenly burn up at 55, and there is 6 gauge that can handle 65amps. You have to take temperature and length into consideration. Just google "can 6 gauge wire handle 65 amps"
@@GarageKing all good info! Thank you! I also saw the charger acts as a regulator so that’s good info to know.
Thanks for the follow up @@bdizzle123001
Thank you for this great tutorial ! Just had an electrician install mine yesterday : how hard was it for you to push the main unit into the backing plate ? Mine was extremely hard and one top screw was stripped in the process. It seems that the seal was hard to compress...Thanks again !
Hey thanks for the comment. I remember those bolts being tight. I really lined it up, and then I started all the bolts and kept going around until they were snug. I think that was the key in my installation.
how much did the electrician charge?
several mistakes. If you want to relabel the white, which is normally neutral, wrap green tape on the conductor (per the NEC). And, you can use THHN or THWN (table 310.16 rates these at 65 AMPS and cheaper) since the conductors are in conduit and except for the charger outside you would be code compliant. NEVER, EVER cut a bare copper wire instead wrap it up in the box...fyi, in a sup panel the neutral (white wire) and the bare copper (GRD) are always separately landed on a bus bar. Not sure your glue is for Electrical PVC..big difference. yes, conductors run outside of the walls are indeed required to be in conduit and protected from damage....why would you cut the wire in the beginning? PVC conduit from 1/2" to 1" require supports every three feet. Table 352.30 of NEC.
Overall not bad install...at least contact an electrician for code compliance.
I am a Prof. Engineer and Master Electrician with 35 years exp.
Hey there, thanks for the comment. I actually pulled the wire and used the bare ground, so no taping required. I stripped the main sheathing off so they are now individual wires run. The glue was for Electrical PVC, I have done some plumbing so that glue is separate. I know there are two kinds. Appreciate you knowledge and comment. Thanks
im confused why you installed it outside when you have a garage...
Its because the tesla is parked outside and the toys are inside.
13 Like so funny I bother and his wife have a Tesla battery power install in the side off their house, 2 gaint box mount outside the house, his it will power most thing in the house and charge the car. They order a brand new Tesla car it have been delay over a years now, they should take deliver the new car next sometime, when come I will do a video on this. great to see how you do this your self great learning if any one want to learn. Have a great week I be back
Thanks so much, I did order a Tesla back in October 2021, it is finally suppose to be here by the end of the month, fingers crossed :)
@@GarageKing Yes they keep delaying him many time, both his and wife feel like they want to cancel it!
@@shahnawazvlog6266 Tell them not to cancel, they have went up so much in price in the last year. Mine has gone up about 10K since I ordered it. With fuel prices so high now I think the Tesla is worth it.
Thank you for the video, what is the diameter of the hole dozer
Hey there, it was just over 2" I think it was 2 and 1/8"
Nice video! i read somewhere saying only thhn/thwn #6 wires in a conduit can produce full 48amp for the wall connector while #6 romex is only able to produce 44A due to temperature constraint. If that's true then you might want to set your max charging power draw to 40amp instead.
Also, romex is only allowed in a garage if the conduit is inside the wall as garage is considered a wet location.
Hey there and thanks for the comment. I will answer both of your questions. First, #6 is rated to 55amps. 2nd, in Canada the conduit, providing you use the right one (usually grey) and I did, its suitable for wet locations, in fact you can use it underground as many people use it to run their hot tub wire. Also if you look at new houses built here you can see the grey conduit popping up from the ground on the side of houses where the main electrical feed comes to the house. Regarding your comment about setting the charging to 40amps, I actually set it around 20 because I plug it in once I get home and let it trickle charge over night as it might be better for the battery to slow charge. I'm not sure about that, but I figure its probably better to slow charge a battery. What's your thoughts on charing fast or slow?
@@GarageKing I tried to charge at 24 amp last night, and it's about 20 miles per hour. Tonight I tried 40 amp and now it's charging at 32 miles per hour. I guess if you charge daily and the commute distance is within 160 miles, 24a is more than enough.
@@jackdai7492 Yup it is, I only use about 12amps a lot of the times and trickle over the night.
#6 is good for for 55 amps per the code. In article 240 of the code (overcurrent)
You can put #6 good for 55 amps on a 60 amp breaker as long as the load does not exceed the 55 amps. But you can’t exceed a load of more the 80% on any breaker unless it’s a breaker rated for 100% load So (44amps) is what’s allowed on a 60amp breaker.
A garage is not a wet location, it’s not even a damp location, if it was then switch’s and receptacles would need to have in use covers.
Romex is not permitted to be sleeved in
conduit
@@stanley4006 Uhm, no. Don't put 55A wire on a 60A breaker. Unless you're planning to be roasted alive in your sleep.
I counted 3 NEC code violations. Weres the video of the inspection?
Hey Thanks for the comment, I did update that I changed the ground wire, and ran individual wires, it was pretty easy to do as it was a straight run. I'm not familiar with the NEC as it does not apply outside the US. I just followed the Tesla directions, remember this really is not a charger although most people including myself did call it a charger. The car is the charger, this is just a conduit to the car and the car controls everything.
How is your experience to install the Tesla charger outside of the garage? Is it safe? Was your tesla charger damaged or stolen from outside?
Its been outside for about a year now and no problems. Still works great.
So you can do your own electrical work in Canada? Only can use licensed electricians in Australia!
Yes you can. In Canada you are allowed to do your own work on your own house :)
Continuous load 3 hours or more. 48 amps * 1.25 = 60 amps.
Yup you bet
You installed wire with a max ampacity of 55 amps on a 60 amp circuit breaker. That is a code violation. The load doesn't matter for the size. The purpose of the circuit breaker is to protect the wire.
Now, even though the max output is 48 amps, any load that runs for 3 hours or more is to be considered a "continuous load" per the NEC. Therefore, you have to calculate the load at 125% of it's rating. 48 amps * 1.25 = 60 AMPS (that's why Tesla says to use a 60 amp breaker for full capacity)
In order to use the charger on a 60 amp breaker and at full capacity, you must install #4 copper conductors, and the ground can be as small as a #10 (NEC 250.122) but I wouldn't go smaller than a #8 personally, and you probably won't find any cable with #4 conductors that has smaller than a #8 ground with it anyways.)
I hope this helps anyone who might come across this.
Any residential cabling is to be considered to be in the 60 degree Celsius column per NEC, regardless.of the temperature rating on the cabling itself.
Hey there, thanks for the info, but I did follow the Tesla installation manual. I think there was a video where they explained how using #6 on the circuit was ok. I don't think Tesla would knowingly put out information contrary to code. Maybe the car reduces current after 3 hrs? Not sure, the wall connector is just a connector, it is not a charger with a fixed rate. The car controls everything. I don't know of anyone who has used #4 wire. Also I usually only charge at about 15amps and top up every night as it is easier on the battery. I do appreciate you insight.
@@GarageKing I read the manual also because will be installing one soon for a customer. But you can never install wire on a larger breaker and be code compliant, except in scenarios where you have a motor load with high inrush current at startup to prevent nuisance tripping. Also, the manual does say to upsize the wire if necessary.
Do I think you'll ever have an issue? I doubt it, but it's technically not code compliant. Other than that, it was a good tutorial and nice job.
@@IrrationalBstrd Appreciate the follow up and I really did consider using #4awg, but its hard to get, and you would know how hard #4 is to bend and route :( Not being lazy, but it was something I thought about, and the 55 wire rating is so close to 60 amp breaker that I doubt anything would happen. You are right with the code compliance. I guess to make it code compliant the 60amp breaker could be changed to a 55 and the car would sense that and limit max current. As I mentioned before, I rarely use over 20amps (mostly 15) as I trickle charge mine back to 80% every night for a slow charge. I did use the max 48a few times just to test and see how fast the car would actually charge and everything was fine.
@@GarageKing it'll be fine. Just wanted to clarify for anyone doing it that might have to have it inspected and save them any headaches...
@@GarageKing wow, a like from the content creator.. sweet! I did a little more thinking about this, and you're right about the wall charger not being an actual appliance/charger, but more of an outlet where the car itself controls the charging. In that case, the way that Tesla came to the conclusion that you need a 60 amp breaker for full capacity is most likely the 80% rule (the circuit breaker should only be loaded to 80% of it's rating). 80% of 60 amps is 48 amps, so that makes sense. Nevertheless, the wire should be rated to handle 60 amps, hence my suggestion for #4 phase conductors. You ran conduit the whole way to the panel, so if you would've used #6 THHN2 individual conductors, it would be perfectly compliant in every way. The PVC jacketed multiconductor cable (NM, SER, SEU) always falls under the 60 degree column, so it's ampacity is only 55 amps.
If my garage has 220v for the dryer, can I just plug this into it?
You need a different charger, this one does not have a plug, it gets hard wired in. You need to order one of the 240V ones that plug in, something like this. amzn.to/4f2H3aw but you have to make sure you get the right end, there are a few 240V plug options.
@@GarageKing appreciate the info
Almost 360 bend right inside the wall connector
You are right, but the radius is not tight and the wires actually follow the channels in the wall connector. You can't run them any differently.
Why did you switch the red and black terminals? Red neutral should be in the middle ?
Hi There, there is no neutral in the wall connector set up. It's just the red and black HOT wires, and a ground. I used the white neutral as a ground because it's thicker, and I labelled it as a ground. Normally you would just have the red and black hot wires, and then a bare copper wire ground. There is no neutral.
Is there anything to look out for before installing? I also have a 100amp double pole main circuit breaker, and I'm uncertain if it would affect the electricity of my home.
Hey There, the only thing I would do different is I would strip the sheathing off the wire before running it in the conduit, now you can run romex in conduit but codes vary and the consensus is to strip it (not the black and red, just the covering that holds all the wires together) A 200amp would be better, but you know it will work. Just as an FYI - I use about 10amps to charge. I top up every night to about 80%, and I slow charge overnight so really my charger is not using much more than a hairdryer. If you can set yours to charge over the evening and night hours and spread out the charge time you won't be using much any. I never understand why people run their Tesla's low and then fast charge for a few hours, and then leave it connected for the rest of the night not charging. Why rush it? Anyway thats my take. Let me know if you have any other questions.
@GarageKing Gotcha. Thanks for taking the time to respond to my question.
@@alkalos For sure !!
we installed the Tesla wall connector today, but when connecting to the wall connector Wi-Fi, it keeps showing that there is no Internet connection, so I can't enter the wall connector setting page, but I can't enter the Ip page! Do you know why? Is it because the wall connector Wi-Fi is broken? Or do you need a car next to you? Or for other reasons?
Hey there and thanks for the comment :) Its normal to see the wall connector not connected to the internet. Go on your phones setting and you should see the wall connector connected to wifi, but not the internet, that is normal. What you have to do is have the wall connector connected to the wifi, and then on your phone you connect to your wifi and you can access it. Somehow the wall connector "talks" to your phone. In your instructions there is an IP address, you can scan that code and enter the password of the wall connector (its in the little manual that came with your connector) If the scan does not work with the phone you can manually type in the address that is in that little booklet. It can take a bit of monkeying around. For me it was not easy to get it right, and it took a few "takes" to make it look good for the video. You don't need the car as far as I know, as I was able to set mine up about a week before I got my car.
Please explain why use 6/3 instead of 6/2 thanks .
6/2 is actually better and all that is required. I just used the 6/3 as I had extra from the hot tub. Also its good practice to strip the sheathing that holds the wires all together. I could run mine like that as the conduit was large, and it was in a dry and above ground place. Get 6/2 if you are buying.
Also what is sub panel model no?
Subpanel in the garage is a 100 amp Cultet Hammer that is wired to the house 200amp main panel box.
Is installing this into Siding difficult
The drilling/screws are much easier as you are not going into brick. The problem you run into with siding is you have to make sure its flat so depending on what type of siding you have it can get tricky.
Hi brother how much do you think an electrician wiil charge for the same work you did....?
The running of the wire is not hard, it's the drilling if you are going into brick, and the mounting of the bracket. To be honest it really depends where you live and how busy the electrician is. The cost of the wire and circuit breaker are fixed, but the labour will vary. Also mine was fairly easy as I have a panel right in the garage. Not many people have a panel right in the garage so the wire has to be run to the panel box which is most likley in your basement.