How to Straighten a Wavy Zipper on a Mesh back Tulle Illusion Back Gown | Bridal Gown Sewing
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- Опубликовано: 18 сен 2024
- How to Straighten a Wavy Zipper on a Mesh back Tulle Illusion Back Gown | Bridal Gown Sewing
Invisible Zipper Tutorial
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At which point do you hem the new neckline?
I didn't want to get into that in this video because I wanted to stay focused on the zipper. I would actually leave it raw, but not sew the last 1/4 inch or so to the zipper top. Then, I would align the folded edges of the mesh, only then would I sew the edge of the mesh over. I know it sounds smoother to fold first, sew fold, then sew to zipper, but it is really hard to get it perfectly aligned that way.
@@BridalSewing Thank you so much for your quick answer.
that technique for the shape of the boning is like a ray of light
Thank you for watching! Please share about my channel on social media. 🤗
Your work is amazing but your explanations are even better, perfect combination.
Wow. Thank you. ❤ please share on social media. It helps me so much.
This is so good I had to watch it again just to make sure I will remember it. Have to add a tiny trick I use on invisible zippers- when you get to the part that has the thickness in the fabric I literally v out at least a quarter inch right where the bulky seam is, resulting in a space in the zipper stitching that is only about 3/8 inch long. Then I tack the zipper tape side to the seam where I want it to stay so it doesn't pull apart and remains folded right where you want it while wearing but easily and smoothly zips up and down. Works like a charm!
This is brilliant. The boning pull with the strong thread to conform to the back is genius. And the easing in of the zipper works well on the tulle. I wonder if this would work on some of the street dresses I see that bubble like that. Sometime I will try it! The buttons (especially satin ones) often have a very specific direction and all need to be stitched on the same way or they will look crooked and unevenly spaced no matter how perfectly the spacing is measured.
If you don’t mind my asking, what do you charge for an alteration like this?
I didn’t know that about satin buttons! Glad to find out before I stitch on 2 gross
I'm a fashion designer in LA and I make bridal gowns too, another tip is to trim the zipper tape, so it does not show too much, especially for sheer fabrics like this tulle. =) Hope that helps.
Or match it to skin color looks good, too!
@@BridalSewing Oh yes! That is smart. Thank you for sharing your talent with us. Your videos are very helpful.
The boning/stitching trick is genius. Thanks for that!
I just saw this on a bride, but it wasn't too bad. I knew it was not worth the $$ for me to fix a slight problem.
I never would have thought to use boning to straighten it or using some pressure to curve it. Great video!
I needed this after a very busy few months, ending the week with a bride who drove me crazy.
Do you ever sense the crazies, and how do you politely tell them you would rather not do their alterations?
Crazy clients, (or crazy mothers) are a terrible drag on your morale. It can really make things miserable.
If I'm mid-process before they reveal their nasty side, I just try to get through it as best as I can. If I can tell at the start that she's a nasty, I just calmly tell her that I think she would be happier elsewhere. I can tell she can't trust me, and she deserves someone she trusts. It will make her alterations process a happier one for her. If she still doesn't leave or change, I'll finally tell her that she cannot treat me that way, and that we are suspending the process.
I've been tempted to write a short laminated memo for bridezillas, bridesmaidzilla, and momzillas.
Dear Bride, bridesmaids and Bridal Moms
I am committed to doing the absolute best alterations within my power for your very special day. I have acquired skills from many many years of doing Bridal alterations, and I love what I do.
I will be very understanding about your concerns. And I will make myself available for all your questions.
What I don't tolerate you will find listed below.
Calling every day to "keep track" of where your alterations are.
Bringing in friends, relatives etc to "see you in your dress because it will just take a minute" requiring me to stop what I am doing to fit you in a gown that has pins in it that I have spent considerable time getting right and risking pins falling out or being moved because your friends, relatives, etc think it looks better tighter, looser etc
Having been told what the payment arrangements are and then trying to change them or have someone come in to "Pay later"
Sending in your Gramma, Aunt, or Seamstress friend to look over my work or "Voir dire" me about it
There are more lol
But it's a bit harsh. But I don't want to do anything else
Great video btw. Again!! I have eased shoulders for the wavy zip. I usually re-use the zip I take out tho.
Once I think I put in darts in between the zip and shoulder. It was right above their shoulder blade.
Thx for letting me vent lol
😊😊😊
Venting helps!!! :D
@@BridalSewing Thank you! I will hopefully get better at spotting them early!
@@BridalSewing In my years of Bridal alterations, I’ve only had one bride that went crazy on me. I could tell from the beginning that she would be one of those I simply could not please. Didn’t get paid for that one but there’s always the others who make up for the moral beating I took. 😜
Thank you for this wonderful sewing trick. You continue to amaze me with your talents, thank you for sharing.
Thank you for watching!!
What a wonderful tutorial. Love your attention to detail. Thank you so much.
Thank you Brenda this was very informative 👏👏 you just have a manner to simplify even the most difficult stitching issues! 👌👰 Thank you for your time and expertise 😁
Yay! That’s. How I do it!, I love watching your videos to see if I fix things the same way as you
Wow, this was such a cool technique! Thank you for sharing!! 😊
Love the tips on curving the zipper
Great video! Never would have thought of the boning and the pulling of the thread to make the zipper curve! I’ve been binge watching your videos all night! Thank you for sharing your expertise!
Thank you
Another great tutorial!
Very delicate fabric to work with. I,m surprized that the buttons don’t interfere with the zipper. I think this sort of alteration takes a lot of practice to get it perfect.
Beautifully done--thank you so much for sharing your tips and techniques!
Hi Brenda, I do a lot of bridal lately but never did Alteration. I had a dress with this problem and I was able to fixing it following your instructions. Thank you for sharing your techniques!!
Very interesting and useful techniques. Thanks.
Thanks so much for all of your help and encouragement. I really appreciate your great ideas.
Oh my this was so what I needed for one of my gowns 😉😉😉 thank you Brenda
Amazing . Brilliant
Oh thank you! Such a great technique. Awesome video, as usual. 😀
You are so welcome!
You are amazing! Thank you.
Thank you so much for watching. Please share this! :)
So usefull ❤😍 i love and adore u so much...thanks to share all this ❤❤❤❤💥🔥
This is amazing! Thank you!! 💖
Gracias por compartir sus conocimientos, verdaderamente me han servido mucho 😘 I'm sorry I speak English a little, but thank you again...
De nada. ❤
NICE JOB. THANKS
Wonderful imformation
Thanks very much .
Wooow thank you
Great tutorial🤗🤗🤗
I know you did this in the video……do you usually sew over the pins…..what’s your view on that?
It depends. Sometimes sewing over the pins will cut the fabric. 😬
Beautiful demonstration! Thank you for sharing your experience and knowledge ! Personally I’m not a fan of putting fake buttons running up a zipper. I would do that closure in a different way without the back zipper. But this is really well done and fixed the problem.
I agree. But the original design had them & she liked them. I think real buttons would have been much prettier.
@@BridalSewing Well you did a beautiful job straightening that Loch Ness Monster 🤩. I’ve seen that sometimes when there is this type of fake button closure with a zipper the buttons are attached almost at the edge of the zipper opening, still letting the zipper to close obviously, so visually they look more centered and the zipper is a little less evident, although you will still see it’s a zipper closure and not buttoned up. I don’t know if that would work to do the shaping of the back you do with the thread, but maybe something to keep in mind and try and see if it works.
You are such a gifted sewer. I can never do anything without basting first and everything I do takes me ages 🥴
@@BridalSewing In your opinion, if the back of the dress has the rel button closure, and is experiencig the same issue-not lying flat; would you believe it's also a case of the gown back being longer than the brides back? How would you address this fix?
Yes. You have to shorten the back at that point.
Thanks for sharing
Please make a video on how to finish the neckline
Great ideas! Thanks! Many times I have added a horizontal seam and added lace to cover it, but this looks way better. I just wonder if it would still work to ease in large wrinkles and not make it look gathered or puckery.
To get a truly sheer back, I shouldn't use darts. If it had to be reduced in length that much, I would probably cut a new back. It usually wouldn't need to be made much shorter, though. This bride was maybe 5 ft tall.
How to shorten a dress and make the train the same length as the front of the dress
If you go to The Zipper Lady, you can actually purchase a SHEER zipper. Way better than the white one!
...if the bride wants to change the zipper to sheer. We swapped out for the exact same color and width so as not to change the design of the dress. There have been cases where brides have requested a less visible zipper, and we do the swap out because of that. But, if the bride loves her dress and wants it as-is, only fitted, then the standard practice is to replace with something as similar to the original design as possible.
Amazing as always. Thank you for being a good fashion teacher and for sharing your knowledge. I always wanted to sew a sheer gown but I do not know exactly the name of that mesh fabric you use on the bodice? Can you tell me the name? Thank you so much and more success to you hardworking momma
Thank you so much for this! Could you please do a tutorial on how to neatly finish an illusion neckline to look like it's non-existent? Especially when working with nude toned illusion tulle? What's the best way to achieve this in your opinion? Thanks!
That is up to the brides, but usually just a raw cut edge is the most invisible.
Oh alright then. Thanks a lot!
This was so informative thank you! I have a video request, what is the general pattern for a handkercheif style tulle skirt with the horsehair trim? I can't seem to find a general pattern for this technique without it looking flat ahywhere... thanks!
If I were you, I would just go to a bridal salon and look for a skirt that has the look you want, then pull the skirt out to see what shape the pattern pieces are.
Wow! Did you figure this out on your own?
Haha, yes. 🤗 I've altered thousands of wedding gowns.
Thank you so much for your videos Ms LaBolt. I have a gown with an illusion back that I need to lower the back neckline by three inches. Originally the mesh has a raw edge at the neck but I noticed you finish the edge with a hem. Would I be making a bad mistake by keeping the new neckline with raw edge?
No, raw is usually fine. It just depends on the style of the gown. This one needed a stronger edge.
Do you start sewing the boning at the very top of the zipper and how far down do you add it? Didn’t hear you mention the recommended length.
Is the boning technique only good for bridal gowns with buttons on one side? Can this be down on a regular dress or top?
Hello there lovely! I just bumped into your Account and love all the Videos! As I am going to sew my own Wedding Dress I am searching for every little Information I can get ! May I ask what Type of Tulle( Mesh) are used in bridal Dresses?Is it simple Mesh? Is it a stretchy one? Like this see through Version?Thank you very much :-)
had to throw a lot of dresses away due to this problem with dresses....why does it happen? is it the zip is too long or too heavy or too light for fabric or due to lack of proper interfacing ? im not a tailor so dont understand.
The is a very interesting technique..amazing, really! But the zipper tape showing as it is looks a bit odd to me. I know that many dresses have this finish. Personally, I would remove the zipper and replace with buttons and loops.
I def would if it were my dress.
Hi Brenda, newer sub here; 1. Curious how you got into this line of work and 2. Do you have back-up machines for the inevitable break-downs? Thanks n all the best, Gail
I started as a hobby sewer & kind of grew into it over time.
Yes, I have what we call, "equipment redundancy." It's one of the things I list in my video about, "Are you ready to sew bridal."
Thank you for watching. ❤
The best advice I ever got was " let the feed dogs do their job". Meaning the feed dogs will naturally ease in the fabric, put the piece that needs to be eased on the bottom, and let the feed dogs do their job. It is hard sometimes for us to let go and let the machine do its job.
This absolutely will not work with quite a few bridal sewing techniques that I use on the daily. My feed dogs are dropped probably 15% of the time.
You do you, though. If it's working for you, don't change it. 👍
@@BridalSewing True, I would not try that with lightweight materials. That would chew up the material. I like the suggestion of lowering the feed dogs, I had not thought of that and would make it easier to do lightweight materials on my big machine (same brand as yours). BTW I have so enjoyed your channel. Learning new things and reinforcing techniques I have had to find on my own. That is one bad thing about this trade, no schools left teaching it, and usually, I worked alone, so no one to ask. I am so thrilled to have RUclips and this channel to learn even more. I have been doing alterations for 30 years and I am still trying to learn. And all the new fabrics and notice that have been available in the last 10 years is mind-bending. Thank you for your channel.
Question: could you make the spine curve by inserting a dart on the centre back?
Yes
love your video's!
what should I do if I don't want the buttons? how do I get this curve?
Same stitching, just without the buttons. Make sure your thread matches perfectly.
@@BridalSewing thanks:)
I love your videos! I need to expand the lace sleeves on my dress, they are a bit too tight. How would you recommend doing that?
If there is enough seam allowance, you can use that, but if theres none left, that is very difficult to make unless you can patch a similar lace under the sleeve seam
Yes, like the other commenter said. Either let it out using the seam allowance, or gusset it with matching lace.
Ah! This is so helpful!! I would have never thought to pull the thread to force the curve. Question: how did you finish off the tulle neckline after? Or did you just leave it raw?
Someone else just asked that & I answered step by step. Poke around in the comments here and you'll find it! :D Thank you for watching.
Did you find it?
@@BridalSewing hi! Sorry, was the dead of night here in South Africa so was catching some zzz haha. I did find the comment but i'm slightly confused. You said you leave the edge raw but then sew the folded edges? Just struggling to visualize 🙈.
I may have mis-typed. I leave the edge raw & do not sew the last 1/4" or so to the zipper.
Lastly, I go back and fold the edge. *The final edge is folded*.
The edge is raw the entire time I am working on the project.
Does that help?
@@BridalSewing yes thank you so much for getting back to me!🥰🥰
You have amazing, informative videos thank you! I hope you can help me with this one since I can’t find anyone that can figure it out. I currently have a starless aline wedding dress picked out but I would love to also have a low bateau/very slight off the shoulder look with long sleeves (solid and not lace) and so far most Etsy sellers are just telling me to add sleeves but it won’t go high enough to give me the bateau feel plus the chest area is not seamless...is there a way that a bolero could achieve this look? Are you on Etsy? Help!
A bolero may... but, really, if you don't like the design, and particularly the seams, it may just be easier to keep shopping or have a gown custom made.
Ahh, so many great tips, thank you!!! Question: I saw that you eased your net to accommodate for the new length of the zip, I know you already cut the net, but why not cut it the perfect length, so easing is not needed? Is it because the curve on the back would be to deep then? I'm sure you are a pro at easing, but for me it always seems to pucker a little. So I was wondering if cutting it a little more would do the trick. Thanks again, I learnt so much from this video!
Yes, it would've swooped too deeply. The whole back was too long. Not just the upper back.
@@BridalSewing that makes sense, thank u!
You can also just recut the back to a size that fits the brides & doesn't require easing.
@@BridalSewing that makes sense! But yes, I understand how the easing would be easier. Thank u!
@@Mamatebear please join our Discord app community. You can post pics and ask questions there. It's a lot easier to answer with detail & forms a catalog of reference for others.
discord.gg/pTrvU2N2
How to install button loop tape on top of a zipper for bridal buttons?
Great video idea!
ترجمة الفديو للعربية لو سمحتم 🙏🙏🙏🙏
Could horsehair braid work for a plus size bride instead of boning?
It won't be as effective, but may work. You could try it. :D
How to fix the same problem when the back is bottons and loops
Same deal! :) I like to restrict the stretch with a narrow piece of ribbon cut to the length the back needs to be. Then sew on the loop tape and buttons.
Or- if it is a lace illusion backed gown, I often shorten it by removing a eye shape out of the back where the puckers occur. I have a video coming on that! :D
Bridal Sewing Techniques thank you so much
Can’t wait to see the video
@@BridalSewing I am looking forward to this one too. I have often run into this situation with an illusion button up where the brides back is short. I have done darts or fish eye tucks at the waist like under the lace, like the one Brenda mentioned. Works for most.
So by scooping the neck down, you took out around 1 1/2 inches of the excess and then smooched in the rest. Correct?
Yes mam. :)
@@BridalSewing thank you 😊
🙏🌹🙏🌹🙏🌹💕
about how big are those buttons? I think 10mm?
Sz 16
Off topic, but how do you keep your nails nice? Mine get so beat up with the sewing, they split a lot and I have to cut them down to the quick so they don’t catch on the delicate materials. But they look bad in front of customers.
I think my nails look terrible! Lol & I get hateful comments on here about them sometimes. I just say they are my tools & therefore look well used. 😂
I do take hair skin & nails vitamins, though.
Bridal Sewing Techniques Thanks for replying! I have recently started taking vitamins, maybe they will help in a while. I’m so sorry to hear you get negative comments; your nails are my goals!
In italiano per favore
Hello, love your tutorials! You tought and inspired me so much, I'm actually currently making my own wedding dress and have similar issue, however my back is buttons only, no zipper included. I was wondering, if you don't have any advice how to fix it?
When not dressed, the buttons look fine and straight with small spaces between, however when dressed they kinda smoosh together and look like there is too many of them. Photo here: photos.app.goo.gl/xEBUnihwx19LQDeY6
The fabric is too very light and soft. I was thinking already about some kind of boning or at least some added strenght to the side with loops but I'm not sure it would work out well with this kind of lightweight closure. What do you think? I don't think it's too long... or is it?
why not snaps that look like these beautiful buttons. ugly zipper would be gone. some convenience is kept.
If the bride loves the zipper, we leave the zipper. My job is to alter a gown to fit- not to change it without permission or without the change being requested. That's a sure way to get ran out of town as a seamstress.
If she did not like the zipper and requested a change, I would replace the closure with traditional buttons and loops. -Way faster to sew than snaps. -Also more trustworthy than snaps. Snaps are for use as additional stabilizers. They are never to be trusted as closures on their own.