S54 swap into e36 EP12: Camshaft, and VANOS install with Timing
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- Опубликовано: 28 авг 2024
- Hand rotation of the entire assembly included at the end
*** DISCLAIMER****
I have decided to take the advice of my good dealer shop foreman. I will do the motor install. I will remove the VANOS. Then I will have it towed. They will install the VANOS. WHY because I started from scratch, chains off. This may be overly cautious but I have observed certain "gearbox" interactions throughout the course of getting to this point. I would prefer then to have it in a known state. MOST instructions wherever they are found start with a motor that WAS in time. Then there is the cam timing tool etc. etc. Plus I cannot actuate, the tool is $190 or so. Between that and cam tool this is alot for one time use. The BMW TIS calls for actuation steps. I WANT full POWAH ///M
I think I got it right... but still
The motor has since been started, look for that video, it is linked here early as well
**** DISCLAIMER*****
There are many important portions of the timing to get right in the process. Be prepared to take alot of time to get it all aligned.
The cams both go in with lobes "up" and cylinder 2 hole "up". For the lobes it's not "up" but some resting spot naturally found with the other hole in consideration. For the intake (this was simpler for the exhaust) more complex as the number 6 intake spring/valves are in contention with the piston potentially.
For each I used the 1/4 (quarter) turn process to fasten all the caps. The intake is tricky I had to move it counter clockwise some during cap install to ensure it would not contact the piston or bend a valve.
A review or comparison of the Beisan Anti rattle kit is included. I did not have to adjust my kit pieces per their methods of instruction. Way back at EP2 I rebuild the VANOS with a Beisan kit.
S54 rebuild
S54 swap
S54 VANOS anti rattle kit
S54 VANOS rebuild
S54 camshaft install
S54 VANOS install
S54 valve spring
S54 finger follower
S54 timing
S54 VANOS filter
S54 valve shim
Fuji XT-20 XF18-55
proper! thanks for sharing this
you are welcome! note that because I had motor completely apart and no timing tool I had the local dealer finalize the timing. but if you only did a cam swap or beisan kit this is good visuals!
@@samthing4thetrack806 Ive rebuilt my s54 a few times now. Always love seeing a clean s54
@@ZHPBrent awesome! yeah I tore it down without a book as I have S52 experience. and put it together without. I almost bought the timing tool.
also these things have gone way up in value! so have S52
Hello, I need your help! I had the vanos unit removed, but both inlet & outlet helical gears still inside the hubs/cams. At this stage, I was turning the engine over to check timing and the inlet helical gear popped out (before this happened I already marked up the helical tooth in relation to inlet hub). However I think I turned the engine over to get the helical gear back in without realising the inlet cam was not turning but the exhaust cam was. Now my inlet camshaft seems to be completely out of time. I am not sure what to do? Will turning the engine over cause the valves to touch pistons if the inlet camshaft timing is way out?
so much to say. but at 3:13 in the video. look again. note the main cam sprockets controlled by the chain are mostly fixed. if u have not disturbed the overall chain relationships AND u had the cams pointing in unison ‘up’ at the no2 dowel point. u may be ok. u should be hand cranking the motor first w a long ratchet and not with the starter. if the above timings were not disturbed u are ‘likely’ ok. but turn it by hand first. the vanos has no influence without oil and control into the unit. the other parts of timing are important so that the cams are not going to allow the valves to hit pistons. The vanos causes the relationship of the cam to the main drive sprockets to move controlled by the large female helical gear influenced by the smaller helical gear "box". That box has to move into the female gear to make something happen different than static. The cam will turn by the chain only. At the end of the video when the system is rotated, there is NO oil or control into it and the system moves fine without interfering
@@samthing4thetrack806so what I did is this. I was cranking engine by hand (not starter) with both helical in place inside their hubs. At some point inlet helical gear came out just enough for inlet cam to stop turning with crank/exh cam. I then pushed it back in to align with markings I had previously made. At this point it didn't click that the inlet cam was out of time. Stupid I know. I then continued to crank engine for 1 to 2 full revolutions until I realised my mistake. I had the inlet cam about 180deg out of time. I don't remember any difficulty turning engine when cam was out of time. Nothing I felt as if piston was hitting cam.
To try and rectify, I put all pistons in a position where they are as far from TDC as possible. I measured them from spark plug bores to check. I then rotated the inlet cam back into time with 24mm wrench.
Do you have any advice on what I can check to be sure I have no bent valves?
@@fvresonanator well if you are hand rotating the motor and it never "stops" then you are ok most likely. It should be super noticeable by hand if there is any major interference. Either way the vanos pieces have no influence at all, there is nothing driving them. 180degrees? yeah that is possible depending on how you located the cams at the beginning, I have no experience with that, as I was very careful with initial cam install and timing to fully understand the system, and the no 2 dowel points all that.
but as for checking once things are "right" a leakage test will tell you if something is wrong. You can only hand crank to 50 or 80 psi, the cheap autozone ones are not the best(I have that one). but i did hand crank the motor I bought to see what type of compression I had it was 50-80 psi on all cylinders. so you would want to check compression on all cylinders
look at this ruclips.net/video/ZDn8GmwmGpM/видео.html the vanos is a free "wheeling" system without oil or solenoids and ECU
@@samthing4thetrack806 at the beginning I hadn't touched or.interfered with the timing. The exhaust and inlet hub bolts were all tight. I never touched them at this point.
What I've realised is that the helical gear is what makes the cams turn when they are installed. Without them installed the sprockets are floating so the crank can still be turned, but the camshaft will stay still.
What do you means by no 2 dowels may I ask?
Many thanks for your response.
@@fvresonanator you have to do the compression test...
the male gearboxes are in charge of adjusting the cam within some limits of the rotational slide that I show at the beginning with the females executing it. (sentence deleted). I do not remember the exact VANOS numbers but its 60 degrees of motion on the intake and less on the exhaust in the design.
the helical gears female and male ONLY do the "final" cam adjust. The main cam gear and chain do the actual timing. All of which is reliant on cam placement in the very beginning. Before chains or anything else. No 1 piston at TDC and crank locked. It's all in the video in detail just stop to read it.
No2 cylinder dowel holes "up" is at 1:45, watch the scan of the picture go "up" and there are the holes, and also at the very beginning of rotation at the end of the video
the lobes of intake and exhaust are somewhat "up" but note the differenced with the exhaust and intake cam lobe that I have at initial set.
also see ruclips.net/video/CwhQ9mv6zqY/видео.html this shows the detail (deleted words), normally part of an exhaust hub broken issue