'Italian Tune-Up' should definitely be in the Hubnut drinking game. Along with any mentions of tractors, tourists and 'I've got one of those somewhere'.
ive also used plastic filler spreaders as plastic welding/filler. to be honest once that composite plastic has broken it never repairs correctly. I find the best repair is to use the soldering iron and then fill with super glue and bicarbonate of soda
@@dr2stroke611 all I could find in the shops was baking powder or baking soda. I wonder if they are useable for mixing with super glue for repairs. Haven't tried them yet though I did buy them for an experiment.
@@terryatkinson899 i dont think they work as good, baking powder/soda has other ingredients in it. You can buy pure Bicarbonate of Soda on Ebay. I use it to repair a lot of scooter plastic panels and its the best repair ive found so far. its not the best looking repair but is ok for parts that dont get seen
Hi Ian, check the hose from the intercooler if perished once the pressure builds up they sometimes leak, I had a similar issue on my TD4 the hose looked fine when stood but once it was revs was added it lost pressure to the turbo... again there are aftermarket silicone ones of various Internet sites...
David Carver I think if it had a blocked cat or DPF,(not sure if this car is euro 4or5) it would throw a fault code due to the pressure difference between the two sensors fitted to the DPF. Plus I don’t think the fault would be intermittent as it has been. Might be worth a look though. In the past, I had loads of problems with the PSA DV6 engine in 16valve guise with carbon build up and turbos popping every 1000 miles. This doesn’t look remotely similar I would add. I’m thinking that intercooler pipe as I had a very similar problem with a Skoda octavia with an intercooler pipe gone bad.
Very proud of your perseverance and the way you dealt with the adversity. Real life and we have (most of use) been there. More Vectra anecdotes but the comment about vacuum pipes and unions is valid. An invisible (small) break in a union put me in limp mode.
Get a small torx socket set and gently move that injector loom out the way. It makes access to the PCV so much easier. As you’ve cleaned out the egr and manifold id disconnect the battery for a while and let the ECU recalibrate and learn the new driving parameters.
On my father's car we cleaned out all the EGR valve etc which like yours was filthy and blocked and Toyota diagnostics said that it was the exhaust system that was clocked so we had it terror cleaned and it cleaned all the muck out of the exhaust as well and now it performs like a new car !
Trouble with cars like this is all of the vacuum hoses have aged, sometimes an actuator will get sticky and not always do what they should, and MAF sensors.... speaking of which have you tried unplugging it to see if it runs any better? Doesn't work on all engines but it's often an easy test to rule out a cause of a flat spot :)
Brings back memories of self as a younger impecunious motorist leaning into engine bays whilst making lots of oily fingerprints on Haynes manuals, The Vauxhall Viva HB and Skoda 120L ones being the oiliest.
Ah the HB... singularly the most unreliable car I owned for many years until it was surpassed by a Citroen XM. I recall that the gear lever was held in place by what appeared to be a cap from an oil can with a hole in it. Needless to say the gear lever came off in my hand whilst trying to make a three point turn in Hampstead High Street. Head gasket failure, broken crankshaft, broken valve springs etc. etc. In fact, now you've raised the subject, I've had a rethink and realised it was worse than the XM.
“I had a sixth sense this was going to go horribly wrong. And it did”. I laughed so much, I dropped my lunch... Superb work. Loving this series. Thanks.
Ian you are my hero, can relate so much with you, things go bad, stuff falling into places unreachable, something brakes or I place stuff in a place and curse and search till I am exhausted. So now I always put things I take apart in one place,lable them where I took them off or put a tape around with a mark.
Magnificent content - if you ever get truly stuck for small plastic tube or connectors then many aquarium shops sell such items and are open on a Sunday (for all those casual fish tank buyers).
With plastic welding you need to start by fusing the joint Boundary for strength before applying new material. Failing that you can clean both mating surfaces and heat melt them both before bringing them together. (Watch how they weld gas and water main pipes with hot plates). This all said, reliably containing a flammable liquid as it travels across the top of the hot engine does seem worth the trip for a replacement. Great video again.
The 75 CDT is known for having no guts due to it being very detuned. I would suggest either a 135 remap or a synergy ronbox which will definitely sort it. I had a mgzt 135 with a ronbox ( was producing around 170bhp I believe ) and even though it was an auto it was very punchy indeed.
You need a bigger magnetic under bonnet light. Cable tie being used as plastic solder is a genius move! Diesel fuel filter might need a change too and do a couple of tankfuls of VPower. It helped mine massively to restore some power gain but as a cleaning agent instead of using additives.
I had a very similar problem with my 97 Audi A4 TDI, I ended up changing the MAF and giving the turbo intake a thorough cleaning with 96 % alcohol as it was well gummed up, it ran and pulled very sweetly after that, it still does and that was 10 years ago.
@@matty6848 very true, I doubt many Audis made now will still be economic to repair in ten years time. Other highly technical brands are also available.
Almost definitely it will be your under bonnet pump which on its way out leans out at 3200 to 3455 rpm when failing giving surges etc. That ones a quick swap, and even a cheap unit won't cost you more than £30. Do the diesel filter at the same time as its beside it in battery tray. My problem of concern would be immediately looking towards the intank pump, as traditionally the under bonnet starts to fail when the intank has failed. Again easy to test, listen for it prime when you pre ignition to start the car it wurrs for about 12 seconds and you can hear it from under back seat drivers side (UK). It's loud, especially on 02 and older cars that lack the extra sound deadening around the tank. Not such an easy job to do mind you lol. Now obviously 20 year old car situation here but that's the quickest and easiest thing to check. A maf failure or O ring failure will typically not give you that sometimes power sometimes surge sometimes holding back feeling. 99% will be under bonnet pump is on way out, and the intank one has failed already. The m47r on the 75 and zt has a very small turbo, in fact most people don't know it's the same turbo core thats been used on the Renault 1.5 dci engines for the last 20 plus years also. Good for about 1300rpm to 4150rpm before it wains off. Get fueling sorted first, I'd say pumps, injectors sound stable and not clacky. Also ditch that egr. Lol.
I had a bmw 330d that felt lacking in power, a service including fuel filter and it felt very different. I would certainly change the fuel filter, good call
I agree with some previous comments, change the fuel filter, mix some injector cleaner ( whole bottle ) in a five litre fuel can, run very low on diesel, Italian tune the five litres then fill with V power or similar quality diesel. Probably been run for years on cheap fuel or even chip fat which will get thick now the colder weather is here. 😯
Ingenious but futile attempt at a plastic repair. I am glad you were able to get a replacement. I too have lost parts temporarily and it is soooooooo frustrating. In the end I got a biscuit tray, glued some magnets on the underside of it. When working, I clip it to a fender, and put parts into it so I don’t lose them.
Nice one mate good job. On obtaining the clips required I would be inclined to check the boost pipes also diesel and air filter. It may make a big difference. All it takes is a pin hole in a boost pipe. 👍
The dreaded socket falling into the confines of the engine bay. Once i lost a 13mm socket while changing a battery a year later while changing the oil i found it on the undertray. Always great to have a jump pack saved me quite a few times after the battery went empty, also a good old italian tune up works wonders sometimes even on modern cars since it helps DPF's to regen.
Hi ian have you checked the vacuum hoses as these are very common on these engines for deteriorating causing vacuum leaks which will have the effect you are getting, and also the intercooler pipes can split especially around the jubilee clip areas which will cause a loss of boost, i know as i had this same problem as you have.
Trip to the big city.old plastic are a payne,plastic wielding does work melt both face at same time and then push together. Warm a old knife on the stove then use that to melt the plastic mating faces, nice video
Did you actually check the egr was seating correctly? By pouring some fluid down there and checking it was holding. It’s possible that contaminants get stuck on the seat and stop it sealing. Also checking the vacuum by pulling a vacuum wouldn’t hurt.
Ian, get a tool trolley and put everything your using on it, tools won't disappear, also put removed parts in a tub or box you'll save so much time and effort.
Hubnut is not about saving time and effort.Lets get rid of the shelving and have more cardboard boxes scattered around.It’s the calamities that make it compelling viewing.
@@emmajacobs5575 I worked on classic MG's in the late 80's and we imported some from the US with all that gear still attached and I drove a late Midget and it was so lacking in power I was amazed. Once removed it was a different car.
ah part two, excellent. Great vid I like the way you do stuff and I'm still interested in the waffling, you don't have to remove it. I also like the way you never seem fazed by anything. Great.
I met another HubNutter by accident today 40 away from home in Wombwell near Barnsley as I was wearing the facemask. I said it was the Invacar that got me subscribed. The red Skoda Favorite was his choice. Velour, wiper linkages, indicator clicks and "Triangle of DOOM" made good conversation indeed.
Ian well done you got there in the end. As a diesel driver for nearly 20 years, I can't reccomend enough to use a fuel additive to keep things clean and running nicely. I hope you keep the rover for a while and can I suggest calling it 'Rodger'. Thanks.
I've got half a dozen magnetic pickup tools as I keep losing them and then finding them stuck to random metal parts like Dexion shelving or my lathe or mill!
Changing the breather filter was well worth doing. With regards to the flat power delivery and running out of revs at 3500rpm I would suggest looking at the airflow meter. Sometimes the element can be cleaned (carefully) with a spray of brake cleaner, otherwise it may need replacing. Very common problem unfortunately.
When my Rover 75 diesel kept hitting the wall, it was down to the fuel pump in the tank, it just couldn't supply the fuel at the rate needed. There was also a lift pump by the battery which is a pig to replace. The in tank one is simple enough, just a smelly messy job where you need to remember how the pump came out so that you can see how to put the new one in. This is why the 75 needed to be kept with a 1/4 or 1/3 full tank. Once you put the new pump in, you get full use of the tank again.
Ian I had a Toyota Avensis 2 litre diesel which clogged the EGR valve. My local Toyota dealer said not run it on super market diesel has it has a low Cetane rating but, to use the much more expensive BP or Shell, as this has a much higher Cetane rating. In the end I used a Cetane booster which I poured into the tank everytime I filled up at Morrisons.
As you said it is hard to get the Rover 75 Diesel up to and maintaining operating temperature, a renault 5 thermostat can be installed in the top water hose. Probably worth doing before the weather gets too cold.
I did this on my Freelander and had to change the inlet manifold gaskets because of an airleak a few weeks later. They are technically re useable but perhaps not after 16 years.
We had a 2003 MG ZTT with the same engine. That always felt a bit sluggish.. Very smooth, but always felt like it was being held back slightly. It did occasionally feel quicker and more responsive but it wouldn't last. It had been fitted with a new fuel pump under the bonnet just before we bought it. I removed the intake and cleaned it (seriously filthy job as you said in part one!). It did feel slightly better after all that but I actually ended up replacing the in-tank fuel pump. The tell tale sign is the death of the under-bonnet pump as it's having to compensate for the struggling in-tank pump. This could have been really expensive but the pump from a Peugeot (i think) fits into the pump cradle/housing but it was a tricky job with all the brittle plastic clips!
Interesting and informative video. Shame it didn’t improve it much. Just a thought, have you checked the turbo actuator is working fully ?, also, check the vacuum line going to it, they go brittle over time and can leak causing reduced boost.
Of course it's a classic. My Uncle had a 1969 Morris Minor in 1985. It was considered a Vintage car even though it was only 16 years old. Seeing that your car is 25 years old, of course it's at least a classic.
With so many twists and turns, on seemingly so many different jobs, on different vehicles, l'm beginning to think, someone, somewhere is messing around with a voodoo doll, in your image. Do you ever get that feeling? Lol!
WOW. Welding plastic with a soldeing iron was brilliant. Amazing work. I don't know that I'd have thought of that. But um...I admit that I cringed rather a lot at 1:36 when you set the hot soldering iron on the roll of Aluminum tape. Oy. Loving the videos. Keep it up!
I thinkt you are enjoying working on it because it's a little bit new for you. By 2000 they had started to iron out production efficeincy while not yet havin added too much idiotic obsolete at delivery technology to the cars. Makes them neater to work on than older cars.
I used to have a Turbo Diesel car, and a new exhaust and a lot of highway in 4th to keep the revs a bit higher made all the difference in the world, became another car really. Later we found that the intercooler had some holes, we paid a professional shop for a clean and repairs, and the car gain throttle response and a bit of turbo punch, before was lagging at low rpm and power was linear.
One thing I like about this and the l series engine in my old 600gsdi I never have to wait for the glow plugs. (in lancashire so yeah does get cold here too), check for boost leak on the intercooler elbow behind passenger head light. if caked in gunk could be failed o-ring causing boost leak.
Its like looking at myself working on my car. You know exactly what to do and then you need that hose or clamp or whatever, aaaand its gone. Sometimes its so bad that I have to use my bicycle the next day :) but its a ford fiesta, so the welding and wrenching never ends...
Give the MAF sensor a clean with electrical contact cleaner. Had similar with my van and it does improve things. Also check it isnt a cheap ebay MAF that's fitted. Er did the MAP sensor get plugged back in?
Hi Ian, you could get a autotune, had a mobile guy who tested the whole engine,timing,fuel pressure, airflow, pistons compression etc,he had all the electronic diagnostics, and he adjusts things as well so the car performs better. obviously if its a component that needs replacing thats not part of the service, i can say i was very pleased with the service and its saves a lot of messing around, and you you get a printed report at the end so you know what needs changing or not..... hope all goes well and take care.
Sorry to hear of your woes with these 'wonderful' cars!! BTW the recommended replacement T-pieces are made of brass so pretty much bomb-proof!! I also changed the PCV filter in mine for the permanent filter (BMW) housing which does away with the actual filter itself, so supposedly doesnt need to be touched again. Good luck.
Every little bit makes a difference. A Saab dealer I worked for many moons ago had a customer with 9-3 diesel that would take ages to fire when cold. Eventually all the t pieces and hoses in the fuel system had to be changed to cure a tiny leak. That was causing the fuel to drain back into the tank over time. It will probably be something small and fiddly that will sort it ou. Good luck.
I just looked up the X Factor voice over guy Peter Dickson Looks nothing like how I imagined him. Ohhhh ! Graeme with a quick reminder Blind Date shooting stars guy is more hub nut :)
'Italian Tune-Up' should definitely be in the Hubnut drinking game. Along with any mentions of tractors, tourists and 'I've got one of those somewhere'.
Just when you think you've seen most things in life, you see a cable tie used as welding flux. Pure HubNut genius!
I've done that for years, use ties as filler material for bumpers etc
@@terryatkinson899 Me to I’ve repaired plastic parts on mowers using cable ties and had good success.
ive also used plastic filler spreaders as plastic welding/filler. to be honest once that composite plastic has broken it never repairs correctly. I find the best repair is to use the soldering iron and then fill with super glue and bicarbonate of soda
@@dr2stroke611 all I could find in the shops was baking powder or baking soda. I wonder if they are useable for mixing with super glue for repairs. Haven't tried them yet though I did buy them for an experiment.
@@terryatkinson899 i dont think they work as good, baking powder/soda has other ingredients in it. You can buy pure Bicarbonate of Soda on Ebay. I use it to repair a lot of scooter plastic panels and its the best repair ive found so far. its not the best looking repair but is ok for parts that dont get seen
I would say that it needs a fuel filter change
A fuel filter wouldnt go a miss 👍
Hi Ian, check the hose from the intercooler if perished once the pressure builds up they sometimes leak, I had a similar issue on my TD4 the hose looked fine when stood but once it was revs was added it lost pressure to the turbo... again there are aftermarket silicone ones of various Internet sites...
Me too on my R75, boost much stronger when replaced old intercooler hose with a new standard replacement, couldn't find a silicone one.
Definitely worth a look ....or a blocked cat
David Carver I think if it had a blocked cat or DPF,(not sure if this car is euro 4or5) it would throw a fault code due to the pressure difference between the two sensors fitted to the DPF. Plus I don’t think the fault would be intermittent as it has been. Might be worth a look though. In the past, I had loads of problems with the PSA DV6 engine in 16valve guise with carbon build up and turbos popping every 1000 miles. This doesn’t look remotely similar I would add. I’m thinking that intercooler pipe as I had a very similar problem with a Skoda octavia with an intercooler pipe gone bad.
@@scootyman2974 yeah im just going on the experiences ive had with mondeo tcdi s 👍
'I left the light on, and now it's gone flat' - so Hubnut, so real life!
Very proud of your perseverance and the way you dealt with the adversity. Real life and we have (most of use) been there. More Vectra anecdotes but the comment about vacuum pipes and unions is valid. An invisible (small) break in a union put me in limp mode.
Get a small torx socket set and gently move that injector loom out the way. It makes access to the PCV so much easier.
As you’ve cleaned out the egr and manifold id disconnect the battery for a while and let the ECU recalibrate and learn the new driving parameters.
On my father's car we cleaned out all the EGR valve etc which like yours was filthy and blocked and Toyota diagnostics said that it was the exhaust system that was clocked so we had it terror cleaned and it cleaned all the muck out of the exhaust as well and now it performs like a new car !
Trouble with cars like this is all of the vacuum hoses have aged, sometimes an actuator will get sticky and not always do what they should, and MAF sensors.... speaking of which have you tried unplugging it to see if it runs any better? Doesn't work on all engines but it's often an easy test to rule out a cause of a flat spot :)
Brings back memories of self as a younger impecunious motorist leaning into engine bays whilst making lots of oily fingerprints on Haynes manuals, The Vauxhall Viva HB and Skoda 120L ones being the oiliest.
Ah the HB... singularly the most unreliable car I owned for many years until it was surpassed by a Citroen XM. I recall that the gear lever was held in place by what appeared to be a cap from an oil can with a hole in it. Needless to say the gear lever came off in my hand whilst trying to make a three point turn in Hampstead High Street. Head gasket failure, broken crankshaft, broken valve springs etc. etc. In fact, now you've raised the subject, I've had a rethink and realised it was worse than the XM.
“I had a sixth sense this was going to go horribly wrong. And it did”. I laughed so much, I dropped my lunch... Superb work. Loving this series. Thanks.
That’s HubNut for you😂
Queue Donald Sutherland in Kelly's Heroes: "Why don't you quit it with those negative waves"
Thats so Hubnut !!! it brightened up my day too
Ian you are my hero, can relate so much with you, things go bad, stuff falling into places unreachable, something brakes or I place stuff in a place and curse and search till I am exhausted. So now I always put things I take apart in one place,lable them where I took them off or put a tape around with a mark.
Magnificent content - if you ever get truly stuck for small plastic tube or connectors then many aquarium shops sell such items and are open on a Sunday (for all those casual fish tank buyers).
With plastic welding you need to start by fusing the joint Boundary for strength before applying new material. Failing that you can clean both mating surfaces and heat melt them both before bringing them together. (Watch how they weld gas and water main pipes with hot plates). This all said, reliably containing a flammable liquid as it travels across the top of the hot engine does seem worth the trip for a replacement. Great video again.
The 75 CDT is known for having no guts due to it being very detuned. I would suggest either a 135 remap or a synergy ronbox which will definitely sort it. I had a mgzt 135 with a ronbox ( was producing around 170bhp I believe ) and even though it was an auto it was very punchy indeed.
You need a bigger magnetic under bonnet light. Cable tie being used as plastic solder is a genius move! Diesel fuel filter might need a change too and do a couple of tankfuls of VPower. It helped mine massively to restore some power gain but as a cleaning agent instead of using additives.
I do like this Rover 75, it does certainly have plenty of (recent) retro charm!!.
You are so funny without trying, it’s amazing
Cracking tinkering video I do love the advanced Hubnut bodgery you done today.
Love the Italian tune up. Thrash the daylights out of it. I have learned something today thanks
I had a very similar problem with my 97 Audi A4 TDI, I ended up changing the MAF and giving the turbo intake a thorough cleaning with 96 % alcohol as it was well gummed up, it ran and pulled very sweetly after that, it still does and that was 10 years ago.
That the beauty of older cars as well. You can work on them yourself, unlike modern cars where you need a bloody laptop to diagnose problems on them😩
@@matty6848 very true, I doubt many Audis made now will still be economic to repair in ten years time. Other highly technical brands are also available.
Almost definitely it will be your under bonnet pump which on its way out leans out at 3200 to 3455 rpm when failing giving surges etc.
That ones a quick swap, and even a cheap unit won't cost you more than £30. Do the diesel filter at the same time as its beside it in battery tray.
My problem of concern would be immediately looking towards the intank pump, as traditionally the under bonnet starts to fail when the intank has failed.
Again easy to test, listen for it prime when you pre ignition to start the car it wurrs for about 12 seconds and you can hear it from under back seat drivers side (UK). It's loud, especially on 02 and older cars that lack the extra sound deadening around the tank.
Not such an easy job to do mind you lol.
Now obviously 20 year old car situation here but that's the quickest and easiest thing to check.
A maf failure or O ring failure will typically not give you that sometimes power sometimes surge sometimes holding back feeling.
99% will be under bonnet pump is on way out, and the intank one has failed already. The m47r on the 75 and zt has a very small turbo, in fact most people don't know it's the same turbo core thats been used on the Renault 1.5 dci engines for the last 20 plus years also.
Good for about 1300rpm to 4150rpm before it wains off.
Get fueling sorted first, I'd say pumps, injectors sound stable and not clacky.
Also ditch that egr. Lol.
I agree 100%. Also had a similar problem on my BMW engined P38 Range Rover Diesel when the in tank pump failed.
I would not have done that on a fuel item, but Hub Nut you are! This is why we love watching your videos... Stay safe!!!
Has the fuel filter been changed recently? Sometimes it's the simplest of things.
I had a bmw 330d that felt lacking in power, a service including fuel filter and it felt very different. I would certainly change the fuel filter, good call
A fuel filter change and some cleaner additive might do it.
Just what I was thinking! fuel filter.
I can highly recommend Lucas Oil Fuel Treatment Upper Cylinder Lubricant Injector Cleaner 1 Litre. Way better than the redex junk
I agree with some previous comments, change the fuel filter, mix some injector cleaner
( whole bottle ) in a five litre fuel can, run very low on diesel, Italian tune the five litres then fill with V power or similar quality diesel.
Probably been run for years on cheap fuel or even chip fat which will get thick now the colder weather is here. 😯
Ooh, a "Previously on HubNut". We'll be having cliffhangers next!
part 1 was a cliffhanger
have you checked the oil cooler pipe if its sucking air you loose turbo boost
Ingenious but futile attempt at a plastic repair. I am glad you were able to get a replacement. I too have lost parts temporarily and it is soooooooo frustrating. In the end I got a biscuit tray, glued some magnets on the underside of it. When working, I clip it to a fender, and put parts into it so I don’t lose them.
Nice one mate good job. On obtaining the clips required I would be inclined to check the boost pipes also diesel and air filter. It may make a big difference. All it takes is a pin hole in a boost pipe. 👍
The dreaded socket falling into the confines of the engine bay.
Once i lost a 13mm socket while changing a battery a year later while changing the oil i found it on the undertray.
Always great to have a jump pack saved me quite a few times after the battery went empty, also a good old italian tune up works wonders sometimes even on modern cars since it helps DPF's to regen.
Hi ian have you checked the vacuum hoses as these are very common on these engines for deteriorating causing vacuum leaks which will have the effect you are getting, and also the intercooler pipes can split especially around the jubilee clip areas which will cause a loss of boost, i know as i had this same problem as you have.
Trip to the big city.old plastic are a payne,plastic wielding does work melt both face at same time and then push together. Warm a old knife on the stove then use that to melt the plastic mating faces, nice video
Did you actually check the egr was seating correctly? By pouring some fluid down there and checking it was holding. It’s possible that contaminants get stuck on the seat and stop it sealing. Also checking the vacuum by pulling a vacuum wouldn’t hurt.
One small step for mankind, one giant leap for Hubnut....
We will have you welding and doing fibreglass in no time.
Ian, get a tool trolley and put everything your using on it, tools won't disappear, also put removed parts in a tub or box you'll save so much time and effort.
Hubnut is not about saving time and effort.Lets get rid of the shelving and have more cardboard boxes scattered around.It’s the calamities that make it compelling viewing.
@@BRI535D but if Ian did get a tool tray I would guarantee it will be a used cheap tea trolley from a antiques shop. Which probably has issues to fix.
Not convinced that's true..... I still lose tools 🙂 or maybe that's because I don't do your second recommendation.
@@alanlansdell7533 he would possibly lose the whole trolley in the unit
That roving mic. gives good result on a video like this. Thumbs up for the sound.
Modern car problem: Too many capital letters under the bonnet.
True, the amount of acronyms (if that's the right word) in cars now is ridiculous, EGR, DPF, DMF.....I could go on but I won't!
I’ve got a 60s car which said MG under the bonnet and came with a PCV valve. American spec ones were fitted with EGR & ELC, too.
Twas ever thus ...
@@emmajacobs5575 I worked on classic MG's in the late 80's and we imported some from the US with all that gear still attached and I drove a late Midget and it was so lacking in power I was amazed. Once removed it was a different car.
ah part two, excellent. Great vid I like the way you do stuff and I'm still interested in the waffling, you don't have to remove it. I also like the way you never seem fazed by anything. Great.
I find old screen washer fittings a handy alternative to return pipe fittings when in a bind like this. I too have lived in the middle of nowhere. :)
also places that stock aquarium supplies have small pipe fittings like those T pieces for fish tank air bubbler lines.
Fuel filter would be the first thing I would try
Yes I had the same problem on my BMW 339d 2003 plate. It was clogged, changed it and the difference was like night & day!
As far as fuel system cleaners go, miller's ecomax used to work well on the freelanders with the same engine
I second that. Miller ecomax is one of the best
So I imagine it’ll work well on the Rover 75 diesel which has the same engine more of less?
Hubnut moment of the week: (after looking around increasingly frantically) "I think it might be in my pocket, actually".
😁
I met another HubNutter by accident today 40 away from home in Wombwell near Barnsley as I was wearing the facemask. I said it was the Invacar that got me subscribed. The red Skoda Favorite was his choice. Velour, wiper linkages, indicator clicks and "Triangle of DOOM" made good conversation indeed.
Another use for a cable tie. Love it.
What an entertaining video. Your level of patience deserves a knighthood sir ☺
Ian well done you got there in the end. As a diesel driver for nearly 20 years, I can't reccomend enough to use a fuel additive to keep things clean and running nicely. I hope you keep the rover for a while and can I suggest calling it 'Rodger'. Thanks.
Ian,I've got to agree with , about a magnetic pickup tool they always come in handy !👍
Ash
. I don't want to brag...but, I 've got one with a little LED light on the bottom - bloody marvelous for $6.
Yes. As a engineer myself they are a life saver should you drop that last but you really need🙏🏼👍
I've got half a dozen magnetic pickup tools as I keep losing them and then finding them stuck to random metal parts like Dexion shelving or my lathe or mill!
@@ferrumignis I know what you mean !😆
@@matty6848 very true 👍😊
Changing the breather filter was well worth doing. With regards to the flat power delivery and running out of revs at 3500rpm I would suggest looking at the airflow meter. Sometimes the element can be cleaned (carefully) with a spray of brake cleaner, otherwise it may need replacing. Very common problem unfortunately.
You can plastic weld as it's a similar process to soldering.
You can plastic weld if you use the same type of plastic as the filler. Cable ties are not a "universal" filler material :)
Well done Ian .
Really enjoying the 75 content!
Hi have you tried cleaning the MAF sensor with some maf spray cleaner
Lovely Jubbly, at least you achieved something, and it sounds good.
Your lucky.... it seems to still be furnished with a lot of pre project drive niceties.
Loving the new sound HubNut.
Poor Foxanne. "Generally quite dreadful" is not a ringing endorsement. Hope she recovers soon
Worth checking the wastegate has seated fully. It gives low boost which gives the symptoms you describe.
When my Rover 75 diesel kept hitting the wall, it was down to the fuel pump in the tank, it just couldn't supply the fuel at the rate needed. There was also a lift pump by the battery which is a pig to replace. The in tank one is simple enough, just a smelly messy job where you need to remember how the pump came out so that you can see how to put the new one in. This is why the 75 needed to be kept with a 1/4 or 1/3 full tank. Once you put the new pump in, you get full use of the tank again.
Yes, I'm pretty sure my in tank pump is dead. Can't hear it.
You've done it again, fantastic opening, nice nearly bodge, continued comedy🤣.......Great stuff 👏
You're getting all arty with this black & white flashback.....
Great video Ian another tinkering well done
Ian I had a Toyota Avensis 2 litre diesel which clogged the EGR valve. My local Toyota dealer said not run it on super market diesel has it has a low Cetane rating but, to use the much more expensive BP or Shell, as this has a much higher Cetane rating. In the end I used a Cetane booster which I poured into the tank everytime I filled up at Morrisons.
As you said it is hard to get the Rover 75 Diesel up to and maintaining operating temperature, a renault 5 thermostat can be installed in the top water hose. Probably worth doing before the weather gets too cold.
I did this on my Freelander and had to change the inlet manifold gaskets because of an airleak a few weeks later. They are technically re useable but perhaps not after 16 years.
0:49, I didn't even think about this, good work Ian, too bad it didn't work.
We had a 2003 MG ZTT with the same engine. That always felt a bit sluggish.. Very smooth, but always felt like it was being held back slightly. It did occasionally feel quicker and more responsive but it wouldn't last. It had been fitted with a new fuel pump under the bonnet just before we bought it. I removed the intake and cleaned it (seriously filthy job as you said in part one!). It did feel slightly better after all that but I actually ended up replacing the in-tank fuel pump. The tell tale sign is the death of the under-bonnet pump as it's having to compensate for the struggling in-tank pump. This could have been really expensive but the pump from a Peugeot (i think) fits into the pump cradle/housing but it was a tricky job with all the brittle plastic clips!
I should add that my better half's dad now owns the car and it still goes well, even if he does use it as a works van!
Interesting and informative video. Shame it didn’t improve it much.
Just a thought, have you checked the turbo actuator is working fully ?, also, check the vacuum line going to it, they go brittle over time and can leak causing reduced boost.
Hi well done on persevering and finishing the job hope it runs well for you
I use my classic as my daily, certainly keeps you on your toes. Thats if you class a 1995 Mazda Bongo as a classic :)
Mazda Bongo? Never heard of one. Of course being a Mazda I presume the old girl is still reliable?
@@matty6848 Its a 2.5td that I run on old veg oil. Cracking motor, its also known as a Ford Freda. I love it.
Of course it's a classic. My Uncle had a 1969 Morris Minor in 1985. It was considered a Vintage car even though it was only 16 years old. Seeing that your car is 25 years old, of course it's at least a classic.
With so many twists and turns, on seemingly so many different jobs, on different vehicles, l'm beginning to think, someone, somewhere is messing around with a voodoo doll, in your image.
Do you ever get that feeling? Lol!
WOW.
Welding plastic with a soldeing iron was brilliant. Amazing work. I don't know that I'd have thought of that.
But um...I admit that I cringed rather a lot at 1:36 when you set the hot soldering iron on the roll of Aluminum tape. Oy.
Loving the videos. Keep it up!
I thinkt you are enjoying working on it because it's a little bit new for you. By 2000 they had started to iron out production efficeincy while not yet havin added too much idiotic obsolete at delivery technology to the cars. Makes them neater to work on than older cars.
Rudolf Diesel would have been proud of your work 👍
I used to have a Turbo Diesel car, and a new exhaust and a lot of highway in 4th to keep the revs a bit higher made all the difference in the world, became another car really. Later we found that the intercooler had some holes, we paid a professional shop for a clean and repairs, and the car gain throttle response and a bit of turbo punch, before was lagging at low rpm and power was linear.
Oh No..... another classic statement from you Ian, As always great video, thoroughly enjoy your ups & downs.........
Not revving could be a limitation in the fuel system. If a fresh fuel filter doesn't help, check the injectors.
Ahhh chaos, the HubNut way. All the good times.
One thing I like about this and the l series engine in my old 600gsdi I never have to wait for the glow plugs. (in lancashire so yeah does get cold here too), check for boost leak on the intercooler elbow behind passenger head light. if caked in gunk could be failed o-ring causing boost leak.
Its like looking at myself working on my car. You know exactly what to do and then you need that hose or clamp or whatever, aaaand its gone. Sometimes its so bad that I have to use my bicycle the next day :) but its a ford fiesta, so the welding and wrenching never ends...
Give the MAF sensor a clean with electrical contact cleaner. Had similar with my van and it does improve things. Also check it isnt a cheap ebay MAF that's fitted. Er did the MAP sensor get plugged back in?
I loved your logic when you were looking for your magnetic retriever Mr Hubnut....."Ah! Here it is, I knew it was somewhere!" 😂👍
Well worth the wait.
Great to see Rover shopped at local spares shops for their parts too!!
🤣
Thanks for another great video......
I feel proud to say I have the exact same picture frame in my bathroom that Ian has in the workshop of a Dyane
Sounds good to me. Would benefit from some Liqui Moly or Millers Diesel additive though.
BMW and their penchant for plastic parts - Anathema Herr Herman!
Not just BMW, most of the stuff under a VW/Audi bonnet is plastic rubbish these days.
@@ferrumignis Thanks, I wasn't aware of that. Cheers!
Hi Ian, you could get a autotune, had a mobile guy who tested the whole engine,timing,fuel pressure, airflow, pistons compression etc,he had all the electronic diagnostics, and he adjusts things as well so the car performs better.
obviously if its a component that needs replacing thats not part of the service, i can say i was very pleased with the service and its saves a lot of messing around, and you you get a printed report at the end so you know what needs changing or not..... hope all goes well and take care.
Loving the 75 Ian!
I loved the leather trim in mine.
It's not bodgery, it's HubNutery.😉
Sorry to hear of your woes with these 'wonderful' cars!! BTW the recommended replacement T-pieces are made of brass so pretty much bomb-proof!! I also changed the PCV filter in mine for the permanent filter (BMW) housing which does away with the actual filter itself, so supposedly doesnt need to be touched again. Good luck.
Double check the intercooler pipes. Especially the passenger side one, as they can wear through on chassis. Had the same with my ztt
Classic cars in B/W - now that is 'classic'! More!
Good video Ian thank you 😊
Two pt video on EGR valves. We’re really being spoilt. Thanks HubNut. Just what needed avoid the real world.
I like to keep random bits of plastics from cars on the chance that that plastic plasticology matches the one I might need to repair.
8:30 You will be surprised Ian, my mate has one of those packs and she starts up her V8 Dodge Challenger on it with no issues.
Like a British version of Mustie1 :D Well done HubNut- good tinkering.
1. Fuel filter. 2. Mass airflow sensor. 3. Split in turbo/intercooler feed pipe.
0. Sort the stripped nut/bolt at 6:21 and cure the boost leak
Change the fuel and air filters, Shell V-Power Diesel and a big dose of Redex, plenty of revs under acceleration and blow the crud out.
Every little bit makes a difference. A Saab dealer I worked for many moons ago had a customer with 9-3 diesel that would take ages to fire when cold. Eventually all the t pieces and hoses in the fuel system had to be changed to cure a tiny leak. That was causing the fuel to drain back into the tank over time. It will probably be something small and fiddly that will sort it ou. Good luck.
Start of the video is screaming out for a voiceover man to say the, “previously on hubnut!”
Hire that guy who does x factor and BGT😀
I did it myself..think im going to become a voice over man lol
am i the only one thinking it was gonna turn into fast and loud hehe
@@davestraight8219 Dear god I hope not :) WHOOOOOOO
I just looked up the X Factor voice over guy Peter Dickson Looks nothing like how I imagined him. Ohhhh ! Graeme with a quick reminder Blind Date shooting stars guy is more hub nut :)
Maybe intercooler hose split or sticky turbo actuator?
Always check your pockets first if you lose small things !