Stringing always adds a touch of class to things; you done a very good job with it lad, it looks amazing 😁 A scraper works best with a burr, and presented at a negative rake...... leaned forward like your No80. The first jig didn't work because there was no burr and the edge was presented at 90⁰. For that jig to work, the flat back of the plane iron should be facing the infeed side of the jig with the burr rolled over to that side, and the iron canted over toward the infeed side to give ya the negative rake..... basically the same geometry as your No80. You could have used the No80 to thickness the parts; but that would have required another jig and time spent, I reckon ya got it done fairly rapid with the sander 😁
Good to know on the burr - I might revisit the jig again later in the year! Since I do have the #80, I might just use the blade from that, and use a similar 3-screw-system in a jig (2 for retention, 1 for angle). that way I don't have to keep track of which blades do or don't have burrs on them 😂
@@TheWoodKnight I would use the No80 as is, with hardly any curve pressed into the iron with the rear screw, presented to the work slightly skewed to reduce chatter. It could be done with strips of wood the same thickness as ya want your parts to be....... but then it's back to square one makin pieces the right size 😆 whats needed for this is two "runners" of the right height that the outsides of the sole can run on, that could be two thin strips glued down (back to square one makin parts the right thickness) or a long and wide groove/dado cut to the right depth down the middle of some MDF or ply. Your parts go in between the runners or into the groove/dado, the sole of the scraper outboard to the left and right of the iron is on the high points, then when it stops cuttin your parts are to thickness, the sole ridin on the runners won't let it go deeper. Often I'm not very good at explaining things, if ya have a gander at lads makin kumiko with hand tools you'll see the type of thicknessing jig I'm blabbering on about 😁 that particular process is usually done with a hand plane, but a scraper might be better for those stubborn woods yee have in your neck of the woods....... I'm in Ireland so I am used to "normal" compliant woods like Beech; got my hands on somethin called "mallee" before, was like tryin to plane a stone lad 🤣 I've always thought the word "scraper" was a bad name for such a tool...... once ya figure out how to make the burr (I struggled with that for about 5 months solid, tryin basically everyday and failing each time) then ya realise there's no scraping involved; it is actually a cutting tool that produces the finest gossamer shavings ever seen 😁
Give it a shot, its great fun! If making the stringing still feels too intimidating, you can always buy it www.veneerinlay.com.au/product-category/veneer-inlays/stringing/ - which honestly isn't too bad a price per m for how long it takes to make :)
Hello from Texas ... an excellent video presentation and commentary. A cool concept (similar to grooving mat boards to highlight photographs inside the frame)...looks fun, tedious, delicate and frustrating ... perfect for my disposition. Thanks for sharing your masterful works.
Glad you enjoyed it! If you can figure out how to thickness by hand tools and have the right router plane bits, it'd be a perfect quiet task to take nice and slow to get those perfect results. Or since you're in Texas, for those midnight workshop sessions when the temperature dips a little below melty ;)
Man that thumbnail was instantly appealing, nicely done. Love the decorative, deco look. Great result! I wonder if you could angle the bandsaw table slightly so the strings are tapered, then hammer them in like that?
Thanks! Sort of like double bevel marquetry? Thats an interesting idea - if you could match the angel with those tapered ballnose end mills you could get a very snug fit pretty easily.
That really does class the place up, I look forward to stuffing it up on a future project of mine... I don't think I've ever been so precise with a big ol' router as you were there, maybe my stringing will be 18mm thick, that'll be easier... 😁
That little 18v Ozito router of yours would probably be *perfect* for that - I know it has a plunge base option, do you know if it has a decent fence? The big router worked well, but it was pretty tiring to make the little cuts with all that weight. I'm with @pete.g - rope inlay sounds great :D
When I've done stringing in the past, I've taken the easy route and used veneer. You got more intricate with the box weave pattern, but I've done it using a tapered scratch stock in the past where exact width can't be fudged a bit.
Nice work! Was wondering if you could cut the strip to final size by routering a groove in that 3/4 ply you used to thin the strip initially. Then slip the strip in the slot so it’s supported, and then thin the thickness down with the drum sander.
I actually thought you were going to use string... Your way of using fine inlay is gorgeous. But I might actually use string in a router groove... I might be able to manage that, and it might have a nice nautical feel 😊
you can get seriously thin stock using a zero clearance with a 7in Diablo blade on your table saw. Use a thick blade if you can find them, otherwise a thin kerf will do just fine. Just plane your stock down to the Height you need then rip for thickness. I didn't go down the rabbit hole with wood inlay I went with silver wire inlay, so even less info out there. haha
CA *could* work, and if I was doing a non-wood-inlay (crushed stone/etc) that'd be the way to go. The 'danger' of CA is you'd have to use the thin stuff, which has a very quick set time, and getting the pieces to fit exactly can take a little bit of back and forth. I'd hate to have it set before I got it fully seated!
Looking at the time, trouble and the requirement for the sander, it would just buy the stringing. The end result on the project would be the same, without serving an apprenticeship on just one part!
Argh scope creep... the only thing worse than a hypothetical request from a dearly loved one that can't be ignored is when for no reason you do it to yourself and a 'simple' dice tower ends up taking you 11 months :P
THUMBS DOWN. 3 minutes in. Sound quality is POOR. It sounds like you're talking inside a barrel. I have trouble understanding you. Is my hearing bad? Maybe, but why should I struggle with it. Bye.
Stringing always adds a touch of class to things; you done a very good job with it lad, it looks amazing 😁
A scraper works best with a burr, and presented at a negative rake...... leaned forward like your No80. The first jig didn't work because there was no burr and the edge was presented at 90⁰. For that jig to work, the flat back of the plane iron should be facing the infeed side of the jig with the burr rolled over to that side, and the iron canted over toward the infeed side to give ya the negative rake..... basically the same geometry as your No80. You could have used the No80 to thickness the parts; but that would have required another jig and time spent, I reckon ya got it done fairly rapid with the sander 😁
Good to know on the burr - I might revisit the jig again later in the year! Since I do have the #80, I might just use the blade from that, and use a similar 3-screw-system in a jig (2 for retention, 1 for angle). that way I don't have to keep track of which blades do or don't have burrs on them 😂
@@TheWoodKnight I would use the No80 as is, with hardly any curve pressed into the iron with the rear screw, presented to the work slightly skewed to reduce chatter. It could be done with strips of wood the same thickness as ya want your parts to be....... but then it's back to square one makin pieces the right size 😆 whats needed for this is two "runners" of the right height that the outsides of the sole can run on, that could be two thin strips glued down (back to square one makin parts the right thickness) or a long and wide groove/dado cut to the right depth down the middle of some MDF or ply. Your parts go in between the runners or into the groove/dado, the sole of the scraper outboard to the left and right of the iron is on the high points, then when it stops cuttin your parts are to thickness, the sole ridin on the runners won't let it go deeper.
Often I'm not very good at explaining things, if ya have a gander at lads makin kumiko with hand tools you'll see the type of thicknessing jig I'm blabbering on about 😁 that particular process is usually done with a hand plane, but a scraper might be better for those stubborn woods yee have in your neck of the woods....... I'm in Ireland so I am used to "normal" compliant woods like Beech; got my hands on somethin called "mallee" before, was like tryin to plane a stone lad 🤣
I've always thought the word "scraper" was a bad name for such a tool...... once ya figure out how to make the burr (I struggled with that for about 5 months solid, tryin basically everyday and failing each time) then ya realise there's no scraping involved; it is actually a cutting tool that produces the finest gossamer shavings ever seen 😁
Hmm. You make me imagine that I could actually do this. And you have passed the loved one test by now I suspect. Thank you, Paul.
Give it a shot, its great fun! If making the stringing still feels too intimidating, you can always buy it www.veneerinlay.com.au/product-category/veneer-inlays/stringing/ - which honestly isn't too bad a price per m for how long it takes to make :)
@@TheWoodKnight That is well worth it. Thanks@
Kia Ora & Good Evening from Caribbean Drive, Unsworth Heights, North Shore, Auckland, New Zealand ...Another Great Video Bro.
Loving the recent videos now you're all set up in the new shop 🎉 Look forward to seeing whatever you try next
Hi, Im new to the channel. forgive my ignorance but at 1:30 I couldn't help but notice the sticker on your planer.
Wanka tools 😂😂😂
Hello from Texas ... an excellent video presentation and commentary. A cool concept (similar to grooving mat boards to highlight photographs inside the frame)...looks fun, tedious, delicate and frustrating ... perfect for my disposition. Thanks for sharing your masterful works.
Glad you enjoyed it! If you can figure out how to thickness by hand tools and have the right router plane bits, it'd be a perfect quiet task to take nice and slow to get those perfect results. Or since you're in Texas, for those midnight workshop sessions when the temperature dips a little below melty ;)
Man that thumbnail was instantly appealing, nicely done. Love the decorative, deco look. Great result!
I wonder if you could angle the bandsaw table slightly so the strings are tapered, then hammer them in like that?
Thanks!
Sort of like double bevel marquetry? Thats an interesting idea - if you could match the angel with those tapered ballnose end mills you could get a very snug fit pretty easily.
That really does class the place up, I look forward to stuffing it up on a future project of mine... I don't think I've ever been so precise with a big ol' router as you were there, maybe my stringing will be 18mm thick, that'll be easier... 😁
if it's 18mm does that turn it from string into rope? :)
That little 18v Ozito router of yours would probably be *perfect* for that - I know it has a plunge base option, do you know if it has a decent fence?
The big router worked well, but it was pretty tiring to make the little cuts with all that weight.
I'm with @pete.g - rope inlay sounds great :D
When I've done stringing in the past, I've taken the easy route and used veneer. You got more intricate with the box weave pattern, but I've done it using a tapered scratch stock in the past where exact width can't be fudged a bit.
Nice work! Was wondering if you could cut the strip to final size by routering a groove in that 3/4 ply you used to thin the strip initially. Then slip the strip in the slot so it’s supported, and then thin the thickness down with the drum sander.
I actually thought you were going to use string... Your way of using fine inlay is gorgeous. But I might actually use string in a router groove... I might be able to manage that, and it might have a nice nautical feel 😊
You can buy rope pattern veneer inlay to really double down on the nautical vibe :D www.apveneers.com.au/product/ins-05-10/
you can get seriously thin stock using a zero clearance with a 7in Diablo blade on your table saw. Use a thick blade if you can find them, otherwise a thin kerf will do just fine. Just plane your stock down to the Height you need then rip for thickness. I didn't go down the rabbit hole with wood inlay I went with silver wire inlay, so even less info out there. haha
Have you ever considered using CA glue for gluing in the stringing?
CA *could* work, and if I was doing a non-wood-inlay (crushed stone/etc) that'd be the way to go. The 'danger' of CA is you'd have to use the thin stuff, which has a very quick set time, and getting the pieces to fit exactly can take a little bit of back and forth. I'd hate to have it set before I got it fully seated!
Very cool great job
I think if you angled you scrapping jig instead of it being at a 90 degree it might work better.
Looking at the time, trouble and the requirement for the sander, it would just buy the stringing. The end result on the project would be the same, without serving an apprenticeship on just one part!
14:43 This is my biggest barrier…
Argh scope creep... the only thing worse than a hypothetical request from a dearly loved one that can't be ignored is when for no reason you do it to yourself and a 'simple' dice tower ends up taking you 11 months :P
I thought the dice tower was for you? Well, I guess its fair enough to love yourself! 😂
@@TheWoodKnight I could have englished that comment better. 😅
Mmm... Pony sauce glue...
Feck the client, tell them to sod off!. Isn’t that what you do there….
Uhm, I guess if thats how you want to talk to your partner thats your prerogative but not really my M.O!
THUMBS DOWN. 3 minutes in. Sound quality is POOR. It sounds like you're talking inside a barrel. I have trouble understanding you. Is my hearing bad? Maybe, but why should I struggle with it. Bye.