Oddly enough, the shoulder strap issue is one I have to refigure out every time. And as soon as the garment has left my hands the knowledge disappears from my mind. This is the Deep Sewing Magic.
I appreciate the close-up shots of the cartridge pleating. I'd made an apron with cartridge pleats but they didn't seem to want to lay properly. I imagine they also didn't measure the running stitches back in ye olden days.
I think every sewist eventually has one or two favorite patterns that they make repeatedly because it's a) comfortable, b) easy to for them to make, and c) fits well. I have two... a shirtwaist dress and a long sleeved gathered shirt. Made them so often I have the requirements and instructions memorized at this point.
@@improbableopera793 They're older patterns but you might be able to find images of them online. The shirtwaist dress is Simplicity 8014 - I make view D very often for my daughter and view B for myself - and the shirt is McCalls 7123 which I make view B of for myself. I also make a lot of McCalls 2149, a men's camp shirt, for my husband.
“Sir!” “SIR!” “Sir, this is outrageous behaviour!” 😂😂 I’m pretty sure I’ve said these exact words, usually followed by having to meticulously remove cat fur from my polymer clay creations 😂
Thank you, oh Angels of RUclips, for showing me this fun, interesting, informative, clear, down-to-earth, historically-inspired sewist and her beautiful familiar. 😁💝🐾
I love that you advise going the easier, "imperfect" route when it's possible and reasonable. I think many sewists (or craft-sy people in general) can get in their own head about making everything perfect, when then there really won't be much of a difference in the end, and one can just take the easier option and move on to another project. Great video as always 😊
What a perfect way to start the day! I adore patterns worthy of repeated refinement. Off to see if I can access a copy of that fascinating book, meanwhile I get to anticipate watching this video , prepare a snack to enjoy when life calms down, and get myself ready for the day with something enjoyable to anticipate. Hurrah! Have a beautiful day! Thank you for sharing your work, it can’t be an easy process.
Thank you for the very gentle kick in the pants I needed to get back to sewing. I'm rethinking my wardrobe (I have to rethink and remake a lot of stuff because of recent medical shenanigans) and a "Labyrinth meets RenFaire" seems to be the basic vibe I'm leaning towards. I can do this! Think I have a copy of the book, and I do have a lot of experience trying to make historical stuff. I WILL do this!
Charming and delightful video. Your tutorials are so refreshingly matter-of-fact, and there's something very satisfying about the sound of sharp shears cutting through cloth that is so soothing. I'll look forward to the next one!
I am watching this while wearing a flannel tunica. If you’re wanting a paper pattern, I highly recommend Margo Anderson‘s patterns. I love the notebook paper size very complete instructions.
Always wondered how you'd get the waist done without it becoming really bulky. I made and mocked up the kirtle pattern according to Morgan Donner's instructions and have made a short pinafore version that I'm really happy with, just have to make the full length version. It's going to be this lovely plum linen my friend gave me and I think I'll use the black linen I bought on sale to line down to the bottom of the lacing opening. Been thinking about how to get fuller skirts as the way I did it before was effectively rectangles and gores, and that works pretty well on me, I just need to try it with much bigger gores than what I've been getting out of whatever yardage is left after I decide hem and sleeve lengthts. On the first one I made I used a reinforcement of some cotton canvas where the lacing holes went, and I used rainbow cotton crochet yarn for the eyelets. Might do that again, might not, depends how tightly woven my linen turns out to be when I start using it. Thanks for showing shortcuts. I've been starting to use a sewing machine for some construction seams now and then, as much as I enjoy hand sewing sometimes my hands don't.
comment for the algorithm gods! I needed this dose of inspiration to do some sewing. also, thank you for informing me this book exists. I have been wanting to try alt forms of boulder holders and now I know where to get some patterns.
You've convinced me, I need to get that book! Been on the fence for a while but your kirtles look amazing and now I want one too 😁 The fit of the halloween one had me slightly starstruck and the green woolsy fabric had me wanting one in that same fabric (and slightly salivating). Thank you for the video!
I love that you've made and worn enough versions of the kirtle to have notes on what areas wear out before others. I'm thinking of the center front point seam allowance clipping note. You also actually describe what about your body corresponds to what changes in the pattern: I'm thinking of the shoulder posture strap movement. This is not just a "how to make" video, it's a "what to think about when iterating on the process" and "what to know after it's done" video as well.
I don’t recall seeing Sir Cat in prior videos, welcome and he’s gorgeous! The kirtle is great, I love hearing what’s unnecessary-many tutorials will declare things are necessary and I’m like “nah!” but it’s better to know for sure.
Ok, Hi~ I’ve been sewing for like all of two minuets and I love your channel!! I just thought your skirt looked easy to start with, but now I neeeeeeed that book 😮
a very cosy video! i am presently recovering from surgery and consuming stew, and this was just what i needed (even if i do have project envy because i cannot currently do anything with my left arm)
_Note for Robin The Parttime Sewist_ - We can meet for coffee(s) at either Planet Coffee in The Byward Market, or at Equator Coffee Roasters at the base of the NAC at the War Memorial square. Thank you for this video, Mx. Ash! I have a roll of a soft yellow wool that I've put aside for a kirtle... And thank you for providing a platform to talk to my Pen Pal Robin!!! Much fun... - Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown/Pimisi
@@robintheparttimesewer6798 Most excellent! It was so good to finally meet you in person. I take it that the antique shops were hiding something good...
@@stevezytveld6585 I was able to get to one Salvation Army, two value village and two talize. Next time I will try and leave earlier so I can get to Oshawa before things close lol
Such a lovely outcome. Definitely something I should make again. There's hardly a historic dress that's as wearable in everyday life as this, nor as flattering to wear. I kind of got married in a very similar kirtle... - well, a Dirndl. 😬 The patterns and constructions are very similar, so for those not yet confident making their own patterns, using a pattern for a Dirndl dress will probably help to get a very similar look. No, it's not the exact same, but extremely close.
Yay it’s video day :) Oh yeah my local fabric shop had Halloween prints last time I was there and I was going to go back but forgot! Hopefully there’s still some variety left!
It looks lovely. As are the ones you didn’t film. From what I’ve seen filming seems to be a real pain on top of sewing and designing! I’m glad you did film one though. Just as an aside you could always and a panel to the front of the skirt opening. I got really good at plackets when I was avoiding zippers in kids wear! Still not thrilled with zippers but I’m less likely to change the pattern to a button placket these days. There really not as hard as I seen them talked about. Just fiddlely and I can never remember which the buttons are supposed to be on! Glad to hear that you have a PO box I’m still watching for the patterns you said you wanted. And no it’s not a problem I look through all the patterns every time I thrift shop
Love it! I may have to make a trip (IRL or virtually) to a book store and buy that book! I'm not a perfectionist by any means and have tried making dresses in the past and have always made mistakes that make them unwearable and then give up. My thing now is making skirts (a modified mid 18th century petticoat/hobbitcore pattern) with pockets which even if I mess up something it's usually still good to wear. I might get brave and try this! But not until I've finished the skirts I already have fabric for!
Mother? Why do you double gathering thread? Because if one breaks I might not lose the entire process. FWIW I tend to use quilting thread for my gathering stitches.
The artificial whalebone came out after my things were put in storage. I’d love to see how they stack up to the capped spring steel. Awwww cat snoopervisor just appeared. Again.
It's lighter weight, and you can buy it narrower than the spiral steel. I also worry less about getting bodices wet than if they've got metal bones. Synthetic whalebone will also mould to your body after repeated wearing, which metal doesn't. In my experience, this is neither a positive nor a negative, but a distinct consideration for the type of garment you're making! The spiral steel will lie perfectly flat in all situations - I have one corset with a bit of an L-shaped curve on one seam, so it has spiral steel there, flat steel on the eyelets, and synthetic whalebone everywhere else!
I think I've used fabric from the same collection for a few face masks. The musical gave a real Tomorrow's world/ 1970's open university instructional video vibe to the whole thing 😂 Have you seen the closet historian's waistcoat video? That has instructions on how to line sleeveless armholes
Great video as always Ash! Comments section! Does anyone have any recommendations for creating stays or a corset with emphasis on chest compression for a larger body and chest? I've been wanting to make a vaguely historical chest binder for larping, I'm an intermediate sewer and I've made stays before. If anyone has any advice I'd love to read it 💕
I hope this isn't a stupid question but why do you double the fabric on the skirt so you are working through 2 bits of fabric on the cartridge pleats at the top? The fabric seems sturdy, not like a flimsy cotton where you might need to do this to, maybe, prevent rips I'm so going to make this. Thx a million for the video.
So you have a nice edge to sew through, the overlocking/raw edge isn’t visible and isn’t against your skin, as well as long term durability (cartridge pleats are in general not that hard to accidentally rip out, because the attachment is only in one spot)
14:35 Considering I have a smocked apron cut out, hemmed, and ready to go, but measuring and marking the smocking lines is the one thing keeping me from finishing the darn thing...heard. But unfortunately for smocking the preciseness matters a little bit more. (Still not, like, that much. I should just skip it, but we'll see.)
Love how you give real and practical advise, what to spend time on and where extra effort has less impact and can be skipped!
Oddly enough, the shoulder strap issue is one I have to refigure out every time. And as soon as the garment has left my hands the knowledge disappears from my mind.
This is the Deep Sewing Magic.
I appreciate the close-up shots of the cartridge pleating. I'd made an apron with cartridge pleats but they didn't seem to want to lay properly. I imagine they also didn't measure the running stitches back in ye olden days.
Black cat and spooky spider webs…fall season engaged!
I think every sewist eventually has one or two favorite patterns that they make repeatedly because it's a) comfortable, b) easy to for them to make, and c) fits well. I have two... a shirtwaist dress and a long sleeved gathered shirt. Made them so often I have the requirements and instructions memorized at this point.
If you have an easy way to share those, I'd love to see!
your comment has awoken the pattern goblin
@@improbableopera793 They're older patterns but you might be able to find images of them online. The shirtwaist dress is Simplicity 8014 - I make view D very often for my daughter and view B for myself - and the shirt is McCalls 7123 which I make view B of for myself. I also make a lot of McCalls 2149, a men's camp shirt, for my husband.
“Sir!” “SIR!” “Sir, this is outrageous behaviour!” 😂😂
I’m pretty sure I’ve said these exact words, usually followed by having to meticulously remove cat fur from my polymer clay creations 😂
Thank you, oh Angels of RUclips, for showing me this fun, interesting, informative, clear, down-to-earth, historically-inspired sewist and her beautiful familiar. 😁💝🐾
I love that you advise going the easier, "imperfect" route when it's possible and reasonable. I think many sewists (or craft-sy people in general) can get in their own head about making everything perfect, when then there really won't be much of a difference in the end, and one can just take the easier option and move on to another project. Great video as always 😊
What a perfect way to start the day! I adore patterns worthy of repeated refinement. Off to see if I can access a copy of that fascinating book, meanwhile I get to anticipate watching this video , prepare a snack to enjoy when life calms down, and get myself ready for the day with something enjoyable to anticipate. Hurrah! Have a beautiful day! Thank you for sharing your work, it can’t be an easy process.
Very practical, straight forward.
Thank you for the very gentle kick in the pants I needed to get back to sewing. I'm rethinking my wardrobe (I have to rethink and remake a lot of stuff because of recent medical shenanigans) and a "Labyrinth meets RenFaire" seems to be the basic vibe I'm leaning towards.
I can do this! Think I have a copy of the book, and I do have a lot of experience trying to make historical stuff. I WILL do this!
Thanks for the video. Love how your kitty was being so helpful! Have a great week.
Thursday knows he's the star of the show! I love how the newest kirtle turned out and the fabric is excellent
Sewing with the house panther, that's every project ever in my house. Love the fabric by the way.
Commenting for the deities - thank you, Ash!
Thanks for this video. Been wondering about the Tudor Tailor. Wondering no longer
Charming and delightful video. Your tutorials are so refreshingly matter-of-fact, and there's something very satisfying about the sound of sharp shears cutting through cloth that is so soothing. I'll look forward to the next one!
I am watching this while wearing a flannel tunica. If you’re wanting a paper pattern, I highly recommend Margo Anderson‘s patterns. I love the notebook paper size very complete instructions.
Always wondered how you'd get the waist done without it becoming really bulky. I made and mocked up the kirtle pattern according to Morgan Donner's instructions and have made a short pinafore version that I'm really happy with, just have to make the full length version. It's going to be this lovely plum linen my friend gave me and I think I'll use the black linen I bought on sale to line down to the bottom of the lacing opening. Been thinking about how to get fuller skirts as the way I did it before was effectively rectangles and gores, and that works pretty well on me, I just need to try it with much bigger gores than what I've been getting out of whatever yardage is left after I decide hem and sleeve lengthts. On the first one I made I used a reinforcement of some cotton canvas where the lacing holes went, and I used rainbow cotton crochet yarn for the eyelets. Might do that again, might not, depends how tightly woven my linen turns out to be when I start using it.
Thanks for showing shortcuts. I've been starting to use a sewing machine for some construction seams now and then, as much as I enjoy hand sewing sometimes my hands don't.
Yes! I just made my first kirtle (also from Tudor Tailor!) in a rainbow plaid, and also love it! I wish I’d had your video before I started.
Cat is adorable. I may have to try a kirtle again.
As usual you make me want to get over my many fitting issues and get on with it. I could wear this style all day every day!!! 🎉
comment for the algorithm gods! I needed this dose of inspiration to do some sewing.
also, thank you for informing me this book exists. I have been wanting to try alt forms of boulder holders and now I know where to get some patterns.
You've convinced me, I need to get that book! Been on the fence for a while but your kirtles look amazing and now I want one too 😁 The fit of the halloween one had me slightly starstruck and the green woolsy fabric had me wanting one in that same fabric (and slightly salivating). Thank you for the video!
I love that you've made and worn enough versions of the kirtle to have notes on what areas wear out before others. I'm thinking of the center front point seam allowance clipping note. You also actually describe what about your body corresponds to what changes in the pattern: I'm thinking of the shoulder posture strap movement. This is not just a "how to make" video, it's a "what to think about when iterating on the process" and "what to know after it's done" video as well.
Thanks for this detailled yet not too much video, exactly what I needed to make my perfect dress as well 😊
This was the encouragement I needed to actually try cartridge pleats
I love the Halloween-themed fabric.
This is the best dress video I've seen and I've watched SOOOOOOO MANY trying to figure out how I can make myself kirtles dresses like this.
Oh my gosh that Halloween fabric is so cute!!! And it looks absolutely GORGEOUS on you!!!
I don’t recall seeing Sir Cat in prior videos, welcome and he’s gorgeous! The kirtle is great, I love hearing what’s unnecessary-many tutorials will declare things are necessary and I’m like “nah!” but it’s better to know for sure.
Ok, Hi~ I’ve been sewing for like all of two minuets and I love your channel!! I just thought your skirt looked easy to start with, but now I neeeeeeed that book 😮
a very cosy video! i am presently recovering from surgery and consuming stew, and this was just what i needed (even if i do have project envy because i cannot currently do anything with my left arm)
_Note for Robin The Parttime Sewist_ - We can meet for coffee(s) at either Planet Coffee in The Byward Market, or at Equator Coffee Roasters at the base of the NAC at the War Memorial square.
Thank you for this video, Mx. Ash! I have a roll of a soft yellow wool that I've put aside for a kirtle...
And thank you for providing a platform to talk to my Pen Pal Robin!!! Much fun...
- Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown/Pimisi
Hey Cathy I made it home. I will send pictures of my very neat find soon!
Oh and thanks Ash for letting us talk
@@robintheparttimesewer6798 Most excellent! It was so good to finally meet you in person. I take it that the antique shops were hiding something good...
@@stevezytveld6585 I was able to get to one Salvation Army, two value village and two talize. Next time I will try and leave earlier so I can get to Oshawa before things close lol
@@stevezytveld6585 it was really great meeting you too. Next time I’ll plan my holidays better so we can tour some stuff.
Okay but I'm in love with the fabrics you used????
Great fabrics, great dress, great cat cameos and a great video. Thanks! I'll be checking out the book.
Such a lovely outcome. Definitely something I should make again. There's hardly a historic dress that's as wearable in everyday life as this, nor as flattering to wear.
I kind of got married in a very similar kirtle... - well, a Dirndl. 😬
The patterns and constructions are very similar, so for those not yet confident making their own patterns, using a pattern for a Dirndl dress will probably help to get a very similar look. No, it's not the exact same, but extremely close.
Yay it’s video day :) Oh yeah my local fabric shop had Halloween prints last time I was there and I was going to go back but forgot! Hopefully there’s still some variety left!
Brill video. I love your fabric choices and how you explain each step 🕸
Gotta love a good cartridge pleat.
Thank you for the video, I hope to sew a kirtle this year and this video makes it seem much more attainable!
Ok, definitely moving that kirtle up the sewing list. Might have to fiddle with the amount of boning during the mock up stage.
I just had a brilliant idea that would also be extremely tricky but would look cool. Cording in a spider web pattern
It looks lovely. As are the ones you didn’t film. From what I’ve seen filming seems to be a real pain on top of sewing and designing! I’m glad you did film one though.
Just as an aside you could always and a panel to the front of the skirt opening. I got really good at plackets when I was avoiding zippers in kids wear! Still not thrilled with zippers but I’m less likely to change the pattern to a button placket these days. There really not as hard as I seen them talked about. Just fiddlely and I can never remember which the buttons are supposed to be on!
Glad to hear that you have a PO box I’m still watching for the patterns you said you wanted. And no it’s not a problem I look through all the patterns every time I thrift shop
Loving your fabric choices.
Ive made a few patterns from the tudor tailor. It really is a great book.
Sir is very cute and while I don’t do kirtel I got burnly and trobridge’s bed gown pattern and don’t cut the front and have several dozen
Love it! I may have to make a trip (IRL or virtually) to a book store and buy that book! I'm not a perfectionist by any means and have tried making dresses in the past and have always made mistakes that make them unwearable and then give up. My thing now is making skirts (a modified mid 18th century petticoat/hobbitcore pattern) with pockets which even if I mess up something it's usually still good to wear. I might get brave and try this! But not until I've finished the skirts I already have fabric for!
Totally would have used the spider webs as my pattern too!
You can also add sleeves!
I have made some mockups for a kirtle and I am going to start working on the real thing soon.
Its beautiful. You did very well
Thank you for another great video 😀
I’ve made variations of this with front, both sides, and back closures (that one was for the five year old). I would add deep pockets.
All the best videos have some obligatory cat content 😻
congrats on figuring out the pattern! it looks very smart
Mother? Why do you double gathering thread?
Because if one breaks I might not lose the entire process.
FWIW I tend to use quilting thread for my gathering stitches.
Lovely!
Simply perfect.
The artificial whalebone came out after my things were put in storage. I’d love to see how they stack up to the capped spring steel.
Awwww cat snoopervisor just appeared. Again.
It's lighter weight, and you can buy it narrower than the spiral steel. I also worry less about getting bodices wet than if they've got metal bones. Synthetic whalebone will also mould to your body after repeated wearing, which metal doesn't. In my experience, this is neither a positive nor a negative, but a distinct consideration for the type of garment you're making! The spiral steel will lie perfectly flat in all situations - I have one corset with a bit of an L-shaped curve on one seam, so it has spiral steel there, flat steel on the eyelets, and synthetic whalebone everywhere else!
Great video
it's funny how, from afar, that halloween fabric looks vaguely 18th century.
Sewing is always better with a cat. 🥰
I think I've used fabric from the same collection for a few face masks.
The musical gave a real Tomorrow's world/ 1970's open university instructional video vibe to the whole thing 😂
Have you seen the closet historian's waistcoat video? That has instructions on how to line sleeveless armholes
Very cool!
Came for the sewing, stayed for the kitty!😂
A comment for the algorithm god.
Have to feed the RUclips gods. Also, making a waistcoat at the moment.
I see a Void! 🐈Pets from my Void and Void wannabe (tuxedo 😄)
I *always* over think and over do my eyelets, and then they get small and bulky!
Great video as always Ash!
Comments section! Does anyone have any recommendations for creating stays or a corset with emphasis on chest compression for a larger body and chest? I've been wanting to make a vaguely historical chest binder for larping, I'm an intermediate sewer and I've made stays before. If anyone has any advice I'd love to read it 💕
Lovely kirtle. Where did you get the black cat fabric? OK I've got a thing for cats... and kirtles.
I have a Tudor kirtle pattern I've kept languishing for years! Maybe this is what I need to actually use it 😂
Kitty demands attention 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Question: Have you used Drea‘s Elizabethan custom corset generator?
I hope this isn't a stupid question but why do you double the fabric on the skirt so you are working through 2 bits of fabric on the cartridge pleats at the top? The fabric seems sturdy, not like a flimsy cotton where you might need to do this to, maybe, prevent rips
I'm so going to make this. Thx a million for the video.
So you have a nice edge to sew through, the overlocking/raw edge isn’t visible and isn’t against your skin, as well as long term durability (cartridge pleats are in general not that hard to accidentally rip out, because the attachment is only in one spot)
It's Thursday, my dudes!
14:35 Considering I have a smocked apron cut out, hemmed, and ready to go, but measuring and marking the smocking lines is the one thing keeping me from finishing the darn thing...heard. But unfortunately for smocking the preciseness matters a little bit more. (Still not, like, that much. I should just skip it, but we'll see.)
How do you turn the top? I tried making a few but i cant get it turned when there is a lining in it.
Are you leaving the top of the straps open? If they’re joined up, it won’t turn out, but I haven’t had any issues with them open!
How do you wash clothes with boning in them? I imagine you can't just put it through a washing machine
With the strong plastic boning yes, it just goes through the washing machine and tumble dryer
10:45 - Is any project really complete if the cat doesn't sit on it at least once?
Sir, I must ask you to refrain from entering the employee only area 😅