I love how Jay always assumes his viewers are just stupid and weren't paying attention to what he was saying rather than the possibility that he sometimes just does a bad job at explaining things. The smartest people in the world are always hyper aware of their own lack of knowledge and flaws because that's how they grow and become the true leaders they are. Most people reach a modicum of success and it goes to their head.
If he were to go into Nvidia control panel and turn on max frame rate, set it to one frame/Hz lower then his monitor, he would lose about half his render time, and feel better "reaction times" thanks to the render times being 2-3ms rather then 10-15. Also his gpu would also probably be sitting at about 40c-45c...
SFF builds don’t have to be hot and loud. I’m running a 3080ti FE in a Ncase M1. Card rarely breaks 70 C and is whisper quiet. Just do an undervolt with both your cpu and gpu and then you can drop your fan curve drastically! Makes a huge difference.
Optimum tech proved SFF builds don't have to hot and loud. When it comes to SFF builds on youtube he's my guy lol. Going from his channel to seeing this is kinda funny lol.
Why not just buy lower end specs and hardware if you plan on under volting it? You’re paying for extra performance that will just always be handicapped.
@@jaredchampagne2752 common misconception. Undervolting done properly will actually increase the performance due to lower temps. If I run a benchmark at stock and then with my undervolt I consistently get 2 to 3 percent better results with the undervolt all while lowering temps and fan noise.
You can probably get another slightly performance increase by ducting the top of the radiator to the top of the case, similarly to what the Noctua NA-FD1 does (Optimum Tech covered this). This will avoid any recirculation, majorly helping the GPU.
I dont know how the power supply looks. But since its Jay ima propose it anyway. Maybe drill small holes on the opposite side of the PSU? Like that flat roof opposite side of the fan for through-flow-air-flow(thats a mouthful for phil) I have about 0 idea if u can DIY. But i reckon its only a metal shell?
On my case, I trimmed out the perforations on the outgoing part of the case fans which made it much much quieter and moved 2x as much air which cooled the whole pc much better. I installed the nice rounded chrome fan covers that still allow the air but keep your fingers in place.
I would recommend using Argus monitor software, it allows you to set fan curves from multiple sources allowing the fan rpm to be controlled by the hottest component.
I don't think the founders edition is optimal for thermal performance for a sandwich layout case because of the cooling system on the card (3080 and above). Undervolting the card may help, but I'm sure you know this. My founders edition 3070 is undervolted and barely ever reaches 70c in a SFF case with no noticeable performance loss.
He just needs to offset the riser so the gpu is closer to the side to pull in air and additionally give more space behind the FE to have more airflow behind. If the power cable is in the way, I'd swap for a pig tail to give more room for this. Undervolt would also work well.
I love all your Phanteks highlights. I just bought the Glacier One for my H5 Flow build and Im 100% getting a Evolve Shift XT for my compact linux server im re-purposing my old parts into. I had so much fun building my PC, ive been watching all your vids back to back for the last year.
This case is awesome and has pretty amazing thermals regardless of it's size. Mine has an AMD Ryzen 5800x 4.85ghz 1.2v, an EVGA 3070Ti XC3 Ultra overclocked to 2100mhz and +750mhz memory. I only have one T30 fan on my 240mm AIO with a Be Quiet Silent wings 3 high speed on with it. With games that draw 280-310W the 3070ti sits at 70-74c while the CPU is generally close to 60-63c gaming and 50c at idle. I also have the PSU flipped so the fan is pulling hot air through the flow-through part of the 3070Ti. I have hopes that the second T30 fan will further help with temps, that fan pushes quite a bit more air than the Silent Wings 3.
11:10 the AIO tubes wouldn't be hitting the graphics card if you reversed the pump location on the CPU. Instaed of the pipes starting on the PSU side, have it start from the rear IO side. I did this and it makes routing the pipes much easier to the side if the radiator fans. Only downside is that the top hinge panel cant open as far. But you can just remove it from the hinge anyways. I am using the 3070 Asus TUF OC, and the cables just cleared the fans.
14:28 it's nice to see you using the fan profile in Afterburner. I wanted to add that you can have 5 or 6 temperature points. Give the first 2 under 50c a lower fan speed to remain quiet, then aggressively raise once you are in a game Temps, and max the fan speed at least 10 degrees C lower than where you want your card to max out. Also, the next tab allows the computer to monitor/shutdown when certain conditions you set are met. Could be useful for this build.
After meddling with fans, I am by far NO expert however.. That fan air flow is IMPRESSIVE. Considering the SFF case/build. I'd be happy with it! I usually run headphones 90% of the time due to shared accommodation so a slight hum from a case isn't a problem :D. Great stuff!
I don't normally comment but I wanted to say thank you for all the content you've pushed out over the years. My wife had brain surgery in 2019 and I've been unable to afford to build a new PC, not to mention the time to build it. Watching you build a new PC helps me scratch the itch just enough to not go crazy. Even watching you run benchmarks is entertaining! Thank you so much, Jay! Keep up the great work!
Ever since I got my first Stacker full tower case with a ton of 120mm fans I've been a fan of big extremely quiet case. It's nice not to hear the fans whining away and the parts still running hot. Small cases are great for home theater pc's and like that where it's dedicated to one purpose, doesn't need a lot of space, and every thing is low power anyway. I'd actually like to get a NUC or whatever it's called case for my HDTV capture box to save space and power use. I have the beast box for editing and games etc. At least most fans now don't have the super loud high pitched noise many of the old 80mm case fans we were stuck with 🤣
i used these fans on a photo/video editing build for a client, and they are super quiet and push a lot of air. I used them in a Montech Air 1000 Silent case and its absolutely silent and blasts real cold air. I would definitely recommend these fans.
For the noise conscious, I suggest put the fan curve at a flat 50% rpm(or lower) until temps hit 75, then at 76 ramp it to 100%. That way you don't constantly hear the fan rpm going up and down, only when temps hit 75 and up.
I really enjoy this video, I did some fans tuning in my PC recently and it really does a difference if we are welling to put the time to tune the fans profiles. Once the fans profiles are set, it can goes for years like that giving us a better experience overall so it worth it. It might sounds too obvious but knowing smaller fans are typically more noisy than larger fans, ramping up the bigger fans to bring more air in usually result in a more accoustic pleasing experience than asking the smaller fans to do most of the work lol on my PC I did settle for about 1200 rpm (full load) but I have a full tower case (Corsair 7000X with 7000D ''Airflow'' front and top panels). I'm really happy we have Jay sharing his experience and knowledge over the years. He's a really valuable human being to me and to millions of people clearly.
I like the discussion of balancing to car talk but a harmonic balancers main task is to dampen noise mainly from the accessory system(belt drive). Noise being vibrations that, without the dampening effect would wear out the thrust washers and bearings. The entire rotating assembly is balanced and the harmonic balancer specifically acts as a sound deadener but for vibrations.
When I changed NH-D15 with Arctic Freezer Liquid II 360mm AIO last year for my 5950x I replaced arctic fans to NF-A12x25 ones from noctua (which Phanteks copied design from) the point being that those fans come with a silicone gasket sealing the Jay's mentioned gaps between the radiator and the fan frame, I've set fans to spin at 50% on idle because they are inaudible) and ramp up to 70% when cpu goes to 70 or 75c - really good fans with one downside being that they are expensive lol.
BeQuiet has a High Speed model fan (model - BL081 - 120mm) thats goes to 2000 RPM and 65.51 CFM to the one you are using PH-F120T30 with 2000 RPM - 67 CFM
Jay, undervolting and oc at the same time. On 3k series it makes huge difference. I'm running 1000mV 2025mhz stable with 100W less and 10 degrees cooler.
Hi Jay, I just watched kiapia unboxing the setup you sent to her. True excitement and gratitude from someone who will put it to good use. Well done fellows! (give it a watch whenever you've read too many comments from entitled haters Jay)
To stop dust from getting into a computer he was building for a friend he modded the case by fitting motor vehicle air filters. The side benefit was it also cut the noise. I'm guessing the air filter while allowing a high flow rate diffused it.
Noise-to-performance-wise, it might be worth separating the two rad fans and running the rear one off of CPU temp and front one off of GPU temp. I've done this in a few cases where the rad is just above both components (like within 6-8" of the CPU and vertical-mount GPU) and it seems to help quiet things better than any curve I tried setting for both fans simultaneously. Also, because the fans are running at different speeds, the different frequencies "cancel out" some of the noise (or at least, make it less annoying). Just a thought.
What GPU are you running in it? I’ve got an EVGA 3080 ftw3. I can’t fit the pcie power cables with that card. Truly disappointed. Then I find this video and noticed he had a similar issue and went with an FE card.
One thing I've noticed which I'm sure Jay knows but for people who don't the Be Quite fans software L-Connect I think it's called sometimes just doesn't kick in on boot for whatever reason so you can set your fans at like 1500 RPM but since the software doesn't idk register or load properly they will run at a stock slow speed, until you manually open the software then they will kick in. Only happens every now and then and not hard to tell with the sound difference but something to watch out for.
If you still want rgb lighting with those fans, the phanteks light rings aren't too bad and don't add too much thickness to a fan, though they are single-sided
You cant expect those viewers to: actually watch the video ... actually listen to what you have to say ... and then actually engage the brain to put it together, before commenting.
Ignore this fake contest comment that replied to my comment (may be hidden now, I reported it to YT). It isnt Jay, has nothing to do with Jay, and he hates it when asshats like this try to use his generosity to profit from. They are thief's, nothing more.
if I wanted to run a bigger gpu. I would run the power cables up and over the the rad bracket along the edge of the radiator still keeping it clean looking. Even if that meant I needed extensions, leaving the cutout free for tubing. You would only see the extra cable length when the top was off
Hi Jay. I would recommend that you try an undervolt. You wont lose any performance and you will drastically reduce temps and TDP. Very worth it! I am doing it on my NZXT H1 and neither my CPU or GPU ghoes over 60C
i said it in the last, ill say it again. SFF doesnt need to be hot and loud. my nr200p with a 3080 and 5600x (nothing underclocked) doesnt make noticable sound at all and rarely spikes into the 70 degrees (celcius) unless im playing something AAA like CP2077
12:01 Jay, if you're trying a bigger graphics card, you now have 5mm more space between the radiator and case to work with for your tube because of the extra fan thickness. You might have a few more options to route that tube.
my sff case of choice is the lian-li Tu-150wa. Not great for watercooling but aircooling is great, plus the handle makes easy travel taking it to work and back daily
I'm disappointed you didn't do the PSU with noctua fans. I bet the added flow rate makes up the difference and you can have quiet times again. Also, I've wondered why there isn't a blocking plate on form factors to isolate the air intake for radiators. Especially pulling air out, seems like a shroud/blocking plate from the rest of the PC would really help. Like a little radiator tray that the fans pull cold air from. Almost like having the radiator away from the case all together. Seems like that would make sense.
If you want silent try working with a Laminar Flow Element on the far end of the exhaust. You do not want Laminar Flow inside the case however as the air won't mix and cool properly.
I have a cooler master nr200p max with a 5600x and 3090 FE and it has EXCELLENT cooling. This case looks nice too. Id love to see more sff stuff become more popular, because there aren't many cases good for high horsepower AND small builds
I added several 3/4” and 1” holes to my case. The airflow did not improve as much as I had hoped but there are fewer material restrictions and t is a little cooler.
Seems to me that it would be a bit more efficient if the fans were positioned above the rad, pulling air through, rather than below, pushing air through, since pushing should cause more air splash. Don't know if that's possible in this case, though, due to needing more room for the water tubes if the rad is positioned lower.
I think this case is my next PC build when I upgrade, im still rocking my 1080 TI and Ryzen 2700. I’d like to upgrade to a 3080 or 3080 TI and a Ryzen 7000 when they drop
i modified my shift xt build and found an oled display that perfectly fits where that infinity mirror panel sits. looks pretty nifty if i do say so my self.
Should have put a temp sensor behind the PSU before and after flip. Radiant heat on the back of the PSU is probably less of an issue than sucking heat into it.
Aside from everyone screaming about undervolting the FE Card, you can also flip the fans to the top of the rad as intake and let the air flow out of the mesh on its own. Immediate access to room temp is better than immediate access to component heat in an SFF case.
These fans are reaaally similar to the Noctua A-12x25, so these are thinner but same 0.5mm frame to blade distance, high performance bearing and rotor motor, and they come in black
Thanks for the info! My Phanteks Evolve Shift doesn't arrive until the end of Apr here in Sweden. But now I have some better ideas on how my build should go when I finally put it all together. Also, thanks for the review of the Phanteks T30 fans. I was planning to use a slightly smaller RGB fan. Maybe now I will skip the RGB fans. I really don't look at the lights when I am working and I don't typically play games on my machines; I am a design engineer (RF/microwave/antenna circuit design & simulation), so I use my machines for simulation & design work. When I run an antenna simulation (phased array type structures), the amount of CPU/GPU usage can be very high for hours at a time (longest run I ever had was 26.5 hours over a weekend).
I recently switched my pc case to a Fractal case and compared to the case I was using it’s amazing. The case I was using is the Maingear Shift Super Stock* (don’t know for sure if it is a Super Stock) the case is MASSIVE! Built like a damn tank! I’m not much of a regular pc user and I don’t play pc games (Xbox console.. yea, you’re envious!) so that pc tower was not practical. Wanna buy the case? 😁
@17:39 I have been flipping the PSU as an additional exhaust for every PC I have built and repaired (people used to laugh at me even when I told them the rational - until they saw the benefits themselves in trying to prove me wrong lol). I noticed that with the PSU flipped down (fan facing bottom of the case) actually has the PSU run alot warmer regardless if the PC is placed on a desk or carpet. The latter is worse as there is so much dust accumulation that can cause a short circuit and actually fry the components. I've seen it happen in a poorly cleaned case (as in never cleaned). Additionally, every GPU blows hot air right onto the PSU plate not only causing heatsoak - it also has the effect of having heat linger in the case alot longer as well as having the heat bounce back into the GPU. Thus causing the case to run hotter by a few degrees - this effect is made worse in poorly ventilated cases.
@@banescar My current PSU is over 10 years old at this point, I've been having the fan point into the case since I started building mostly because when I started the PSUs where mounted at the top of the case and there were no holes to have the PSU point up and now it's part habit and part because my room has carpet. Unless you can put your case on a desk(which I can't because 1. My desk wouldn't allow for it and 2. It's a Full Tower) then having it point down seems like a bad idea because of all the dust down near the floor.
PSU flip around is a great idea actually , i flipped my SF750 in NR200p and it did a great job , as long as you dont use somekind of psu like bronze level your psu doesn't have that much heat problem .
Some cases like my current one the Power Supply is completely sealed from the rest of the components so it won't help flipping it Cases like the Fractal Torrent is designed with the PSU on top like older cases to draw in air which is really cool and what I prefer.
Is the fan on a psu an exhaust fan or a supply fan? Meaning, does it draw air into the psu, or exhaust it out? When Jay flipped it, did the fan go to the top or the bottom? I’ve read my Seasonic manual several times and they don’t explain this, if anyone can shed light pls do.
Something of note also is the top case perforations have a lot of flat metal between them that obstructs full fan flow, and the reason after much experimentation in my limited build experience that I will sometimes neatly cut the fan hole out in the back of rear case punch outs and install a chrome wire fan grille - they flow and they are the absolute best flowing and quietest grille you can use, thought not great looking which is why I only do this mod on tha back case panel exhaust fans - really quiets the fan down and increases the air flow though.
I might be off base here but wouldn't you move more air controlling for dB if you did a high end high static pressure 15mm thick fan under the rad and a 15mm think fan on top? That way the HSP fan doesn't have to work as hard to move air through the rad.
I mean, the heavy buzzing sound with those new performance fans would make me throw the whole computer down after 2 min. Reducing the FPS to a 240fps cap would drastically improve thermals without even changing hardware. Underclock would also help a lot. Silence is key.
For anyone looking to recreate this combo of case and AIO cooler - the 240T30 AIO --- DOES NOT FIT. This was corroborated by Phanteks support. Your only option is to set the top of the case directly on top of the AIO radiator. This makes the case feel janky anytime you need to move it around as the top is not fixed to the actual structure. I just found this out today after completing my build this past weekend and banging my head on the desk trying to figure out why the top of the case will not attach properly.
I am working on a build with a 12700k and a 3080Ti. I plan on undervolting my stuff to help with thermals and noise. I unfortunately can't flip my PSU as i stuff all my excess cables in that slot. Probably not the best
Jay id' be curious to see what the temp differences are if you flipped the aio fans to where it's pulling air into the chassis. Cooler air hitting the rad and pushing air through the system over the components and out of the system.
I have to admit, I was expecting the TR30 to be at least a bit quieter while not going 100% fanspeed since we are talking about a fan-design similar to the AF12x25. Still like the sound of the AF12x25 more since for me it sounds deeper. Kind a sad since I was hoping for (more) competition in this regard (sound profile of the motor / rotor) as well.
If you put Phanteks T30x30 at the same fan speed as Noctua A12x25, it will perform similar, because the fan is thicker (tho the frequency is higher and it "sounds" worse). But T30 is build to brute force as much fan speed as possible for the lowest temperatures, so if you want a jet engine, get T30. If you want 99% the same performance for a lot less noise, Noctua A12x25 is still king. And undervolt is underated, you save 10c just by doing it.
I like SFF for office type PCs and other low performance applications. I'm not really a fan of using them for high performance applications. It's cool that there are some workarounds for people who are really challenged for space, but my personal favorite is MicroATX.
highly suggest trying a non founders edition gpu and you will likely see a 5-10 degree better temps. I use a Meshlicious case (all mesh panels) with a 6700 xt (Red Devil) and 5600 x both slightly overclocked - and the system runs cooler and quieter. Running an EK 280 AIO as only fans in the system.
to me, it seems like the top side vent would stop the fans from efficiently pulling air through the bottom of the case. but IMO the best setups only have one intake and one exhaust.
Love those fans, I have mine in Advanced mode and normally its quiet blowing through my 360EK thick boy 60mm rad. Once it a while it'll go full tilt since its tied to CPU temps.
If you want performance in a silent build, go Noctua NF-A12x25, it's more silent than Phanteks T30, but T30 can brute force the most performance for a 120mm fan. If you want RGB, just undervolt the CPU, GPU and you will get 10C lower.
I have a video idea for you that would also be educational. You should undervolt the 3090 to lower temps which will also reduce the fan rpm and noise. You can get 5 degrees lower on GPU temps with a simple undervolt and not lose any clock speed or performance. From what I see in the SFF community it's common practice. You should make a video on how to undervolt your GPU using this PC and check out the results at the same time vs before. Even if you manage to fit a new card it would still be cool to see.
You know Jayztwocents is more of a overclock kind of guy? Which will put jet engine fans (T30) and just brute force it than putting quiet and powerful fans (Noctua A12x25) and undervolt a bit.
Why arent you using spacers to offset the riser cable so that you can use the founders on the outer 2 slots and create a bigger gap like this for the blow through fan.
I see you're still using that Corsair Xeneon. I managed to get one for $575 after a coupon last week and it delivers tomorrow. Pretty stoked! Seemed like a no-brainer at that price.
I run my 3080ti slightly undervolted so it mantains constant high clock speeds with my fans at 75% when gaming and my temps are great, I have the same FE card and the auto fan settings allowed it to run hotter than i was happy with. Honestly the thing sounds like a jet engine at anything about 70-75% once you hit 80% it's crazy loud don't ever bother with 100% unless you have a loud headset or are further away from the computer, I sit quite close to my tower so i notice it a lot without headphones but for the most part i'll use headphones only on some single player games i'll use my speakers and crank them up as my bose speakers are good quality for gaming. I wish the card ran quieter but gpu's are never going to be that silent when they're running games. I am very happy with it though it's an insanely powerful gpu. the vram temps concerned me the most but i've done enough research to know the safe limits for gddr6x now. PS. just for reference I have a corsair 5000d airflow with 7 ll120 fans and a noctua nh a12u air cooler on my cpu so no rads in my system.
It's not very hard ,if you build one pc by ur own. I just using the Jonsbo A4 for my ITX Build. You only need a good idea what fits and what not. If you want 3 slot Cards no problem, go for Phanteks, Coolermaster or some other. If you want more Fans go for something bigger. My Build working fine for my Conditions and only running in Silentmode all the Time (900rpm on 4 Fans).
I highly recommend the NR200/P model. Its a great introductory SFF/ITX case. If not, the NZXT h1 was literally the easiest I've built in. I saw some guy on RUclips build one in
same. after watching an unhealthy amount of optimum techs youtube channel i'm obsessed with sff builds. 100% plan on my next build being sff. they're so fricken cool.
But Jay.... what about people who want to use it full water cool system... what then... can it be DONE??? would it make it run cooler and a lot better? wondering minds like to know
thanks for covering this direction. im ALWAYS preferring cooler system over noise. granted, im running on an old system, and pushing the hell out of it it as a modern system, (4XXX i5) but i consider 60c as hot, im currently 29c on core. and pushing it playing games and such will get me to the 50's, i consider that ok, anything higher, and there is an issue. this would also show why running it cooler over a long time is why i still have this system as operational as it is. cover more about lowering temps please.
Try stuffing the case with delta fans.... i have a Corsair carbide pro case fitted with a total of 6 DELTA fans and stays cool all day long even through gaming, the highest I've seen my stuff go is 45*c... before anyone asks "what about the noise?"... it pays to have noise-cancelling headphones.
How come a lot of RUclipsrs don’t consider undercoating the card? That was the first thing I did and I dropped 10C!! At lower volume while simultaneously doing a decent overclock!
I love how Jay always assumes his viewers are just stupid and weren't paying attention to what he was saying rather than the possibility that he sometimes just does a bad job at explaining things. The smartest people in the world are always hyper aware of their own lack of knowledge and flaws because that's how they grow and become the true leaders they are. Most people reach a modicum of success and it goes to their head.
Jay - I’m gonna do something to try to improve my cooling. *Does what manufacturer intended*
lol for real!
If he were to go into Nvidia control panel and turn on max frame rate, set it to one frame/Hz lower then his monitor, he would lose about half his render time, and feel better "reaction times" thanks to the render times being 2-3ms rather then 10-15. Also his gpu would also probably be sitting at about 40c-45c...
@@crisnmaryfam7344 I.....did not know this. Thank you for this information
I thought Jay was just whip out a fire extinguisher 🧯 to improve cooling...
@@crisnmaryfam7344 why 1Hz lower? we shouldnt put it the same as monitor max frama rate?
SFF builds don’t have to be hot and loud. I’m running a 3080ti FE in a Ncase M1. Card rarely breaks 70 C and is whisper quiet. Just do an undervolt with both your cpu and gpu and then you can drop your fan curve drastically! Makes a huge difference.
Optimum tech proved SFF builds don't have to hot and loud. When it comes to SFF builds on youtube he's my guy lol. Going from his channel to seeing this is kinda funny lol.
@@PabzRoz same!
Why not just buy lower end specs and hardware if you plan on under volting it? You’re paying for extra performance that will just always be handicapped.
@@jaredchampagne2752 You can undervolt while keeping close to the same performance.
Loosing 1% frames but dropping 20 degrees is a good trade off.
@@jaredchampagne2752 common misconception. Undervolting done properly will actually increase the performance due to lower temps. If I run a benchmark at stock and then with my undervolt I consistently get 2 to 3 percent better results with the undervolt all while lowering temps and fan noise.
You can probably get another slightly performance increase by ducting the top of the radiator to the top of the case, similarly to what the Noctua NA-FD1 does (Optimum Tech covered this). This will avoid any recirculation, majorly helping the GPU.
To be fair, as far as I know, that's a 90 mm fan option only
Please do correct me if I am wrong
I dont know how the power supply looks. But since its Jay ima propose it anyway. Maybe drill small holes on the opposite side of the PSU? Like that flat roof opposite side of the fan for through-flow-air-flow(thats a mouthful for phil)
I have about 0 idea if u can DIY. But i reckon its only a metal shell?
@@wilswils4837 that is a terrible idea, how would you prevent metal shards fly all inside the psu then :O
@@Koichifirst take the PSU out, de-bur it aka sand it.
@@beoeve no no if you drill into the PSU housing, how you wanna stop metal shards/shavings from the drilling to be stuck insiiiiide the PSU?
On my case, I trimmed out the perforations on the outgoing part of the case fans which made it much much quieter and moved 2x as much air which cooled the whole pc much better. I installed the nice rounded chrome fan covers that still allow the air but keep your fingers in place.
I would recommend using Argus monitor software, it allows you to set fan curves from multiple sources allowing the fan rpm to be controlled by the hottest component.
I mentioned this in Jay's last video on this build.Argus monitor is awesome software :)
Argus monitor is OP af
Even better: Fan control is open source and works just like argus, without paying. Just take a look about it on the LTT forums.
Argus is brilliant. My PC is cool and silent when not gaming.
Fan control is waaay better, it's free and open source
I don't think the founders edition is optimal for thermal performance for a sandwich layout case because of the cooling system on the card (3080 and above). Undervolting the card may help, but I'm sure you know this. My founders edition 3070 is undervolted and barely ever reaches 70c in a SFF case with no noticeable performance loss.
I think the founders edition have the worst cooling tbh
I undervolt my 3070 as well. 906 mV seems to be a sweet spot where I don't lose any performance and the temps are about 10°C cooler.
yep putting a fe card in there is just a bad idea.
He just needs to offset the riser so the gpu is closer to the side to pull in air and additionally give more space behind the FE to have more airflow behind. If the power cable is in the way, I'd swap for a pig tail to give more room for this. Undervolt would also work well.
@@aliabdelaziz7585 in a large ATX case the blow-through style coolers actually perform pretty well AFAIK but yeah in a SFF probably not so much
I love all your Phanteks highlights. I just bought the Glacier One for my H5 Flow build and Im 100% getting a Evolve Shift XT for my compact linux server im re-purposing my old parts into. I had so much fun building my PC, ive been watching all your vids back to back for the last year.
Decided to do my first pc build this past weekend and used so many of your videos to help me build it. So glad I found your channel Jay!
This case is awesome and has pretty amazing thermals regardless of it's size. Mine has an AMD Ryzen 5800x 4.85ghz 1.2v, an EVGA 3070Ti XC3 Ultra overclocked to 2100mhz and +750mhz memory. I only have one T30 fan on my 240mm AIO with a Be Quiet Silent wings 3 high speed on with it. With games that draw 280-310W the 3070ti sits at 70-74c while the CPU is generally close to 60-63c gaming and 50c at idle. I also have the PSU flipped so the fan is pulling hot air through the flow-through part of the 3070Ti. I have hopes that the second T30 fan will further help with temps, that fan pushes quite a bit more air than the Silent Wings 3.
11:10 the AIO tubes wouldn't be hitting the graphics card if you reversed the pump location on the CPU. Instaed of the pipes starting on the PSU side, have it start from the rear IO side. I did this and it makes routing the pipes much easier to the side if the radiator fans. Only downside is that the top hinge panel cant open as far. But you can just remove it from the hinge anyways. I am using the 3070 Asus TUF OC, and the cables just cleared the fans.
14:28 it's nice to see you using the fan profile in Afterburner. I wanted to add that you can have 5 or 6 temperature points. Give the first 2 under 50c a lower fan speed to remain quiet, then aggressively raise once you are in a game Temps, and max the fan speed at least 10 degrees C lower than where you want your card to max out.
Also, the next tab allows the computer to monitor/shutdown when certain conditions you set are met. Could be useful for this build.
After meddling with fans, I am by far NO expert however.. That fan air flow is IMPRESSIVE. Considering the SFF case/build. I'd be happy with it! I usually run headphones 90% of the time due to shared accommodation so a slight hum from a case isn't a problem :D. Great stuff!
I don't normally comment but I wanted to say thank you for all the content you've pushed out over the years.
My wife had brain surgery in 2019 and I've been unable to afford to build a new PC, not to mention the time to build it.
Watching you build a new PC helps me scratch the itch just enough to not go crazy. Even watching you run benchmarks is entertaining!
Thank you so much, Jay! Keep up the great work!
What a sweet comment
Ever since I got my first Stacker full tower case with a ton of 120mm fans I've been a fan of big extremely quiet case. It's nice not to hear the fans whining away and the parts still running hot.
Small cases are great for home theater pc's and like that where it's dedicated to one purpose, doesn't need a lot of space, and every thing is low power anyway. I'd actually like to get a NUC or whatever it's called case for my HDTV capture box to save space and power use.
I have the beast box for editing and games etc. At least most fans now don't have the super loud high pitched noise many of the old 80mm case fans we were stuck with 🤣
i used these fans on a photo/video editing build for a client, and they are super quiet and push a lot of air. I used them in a Montech Air 1000 Silent case and its absolutely silent and blasts real cold air. I would definitely recommend these fans.
16:35
Turn it upside down and that thing is taking off
For the noise conscious, I suggest put the fan curve at a flat 50% rpm(or lower) until temps hit 75, then at 76 ramp it to 100%. That way you don't constantly hear the fan rpm going up and down, only when temps hit 75 and up.
I really enjoy this video, I did some fans tuning in my PC recently and it really does a difference if we are welling to put the time to tune the fans profiles. Once the fans profiles are set, it can goes for years like that giving us a better experience overall so it worth it. It might sounds too obvious but knowing smaller fans are typically more noisy than larger fans, ramping up the bigger fans to bring more air in usually result in a more accoustic pleasing experience than asking the smaller fans to do most of the work lol on my PC I did settle for about 1200 rpm (full load) but I have a full tower case (Corsair 7000X with 7000D ''Airflow'' front and top panels).
I'm really happy we have Jay sharing his experience and knowledge over the years. He's a really valuable human being to me and to millions of people clearly.
Incredible change in temp. At 16:50 balloon string needed. Nice
I like the discussion of balancing to car talk but a harmonic balancers main task is to dampen noise mainly from the accessory system(belt drive). Noise being vibrations that, without the dampening effect would wear out the thrust washers and bearings. The entire rotating assembly is balanced and the harmonic balancer specifically acts as a sound deadener but for vibrations.
"Look at these fans. They're like a silver-y black." I think they call that grey, Jay. 😂
When I changed NH-D15 with Arctic Freezer Liquid II 360mm AIO last year for my 5950x I replaced arctic fans to NF-A12x25 ones from noctua (which Phanteks copied design from) the point being that those fans come with a silicone gasket sealing the Jay's mentioned gaps between the radiator and the fan frame, I've set fans to spin at 50% on idle because they are inaudible) and ramp up to 70% when cpu goes to 70 or 75c - really good fans with one downside being that they are expensive lol.
BeQuiet has a High Speed model fan (model - BL081 - 120mm) thats goes to 2000 RPM and 65.51 CFM to the one you are using PH-F120T30 with 2000 RPM - 67 CFM
Jay, undervolting and oc at the same time. On 3k series it makes huge difference. I'm running 1000mV 2025mhz stable with 100W less and 10 degrees cooler.
Hi Jay,
I just watched kiapia unboxing the setup you sent to her.
True excitement and gratitude from someone who will put it to good use.
Well done fellows!
(give it a watch whenever you've read too many comments from entitled haters Jay)
jay try argus monitor to make all the fans ramp up according to the GPU temps
HOW DID YOU TEAR THAT TAPE RIGHT DOWN THE MIDDLE!??
Could a fogger have shown how the the air was flowing before and after psu flip?
Jay Previous episode: I’m in love with this case!
Now Jay on this episode: oh s**t this case it’s too hot, thanks Steve!
Man I love this build. Thanks J
To stop dust from getting into a computer he was building for a friend he modded the case by fitting motor vehicle air filters. The side benefit was it also cut the noise. I'm guessing the air filter while allowing a high flow rate diffused it.
Noise-to-performance-wise, it might be worth separating the two rad fans and running the rear one off of CPU temp and front one off of GPU temp. I've done this in a few cases where the rad is just above both components (like within 6-8" of the CPU and vertical-mount GPU) and it seems to help quiet things better than any curve I tried setting for both fans simultaneously.
Also, because the fans are running at different speeds, the different frequencies "cancel out" some of the noise (or at least, make it less annoying). Just a thought.
Seeing the cross of the FE card on the side is pretty sweet in the build.
I'm currently using The Evolv X and love it! It's a great case with amazing airflow. I love it!
What GPU are you running in it? I’ve got an EVGA 3080 ftw3. I can’t fit the pcie power cables with that card. Truly disappointed. Then I find this video and noticed he had a similar issue and went with an FE card.
One thing I've noticed which I'm sure Jay knows but for people who don't the Be Quite fans software L-Connect I think it's called sometimes just doesn't kick in on boot for whatever reason so you can set your fans at like 1500 RPM but since the software doesn't idk register or load properly they will run at a stock slow speed, until you manually open the software then they will kick in.
Only happens every now and then and not hard to tell with the sound difference but something to watch out for.
If you still want rgb lighting with those fans, the phanteks light rings aren't too bad and don't add too much thickness to a fan, though they are single-sided
You cant expect those viewers to:
actually watch the video ...
actually listen to what you have to say ...
and then actually engage the brain to put it together,
before commenting.
Ignore this fake contest comment that replied to my comment (may be hidden now, I reported it to YT). It isnt Jay, has nothing to do with Jay, and he hates it when asshats like this try to use his generosity to profit from.
They are thief's, nothing more.
if I wanted to run a bigger gpu. I would run the power cables up and over the the rad bracket along the edge of the radiator still keeping it clean looking. Even if that meant I needed extensions, leaving the cutout free for tubing. You would only see the extra cable length when the top was off
Yes to another follow-up video with tuned fan curves to minimize noise.
Hi Jay. I would recommend that you try an undervolt. You wont lose any performance and you will drastically reduce temps and TDP. Very worth it! I am doing it on my NZXT H1 and neither my CPU or GPU ghoes over 60C
I wish undervolting would be possible for AMD CPUs on laptops
i said it in the last, ill say it again. SFF doesnt need to be hot and loud. my nr200p with a 3080 and 5600x (nothing underclocked) doesnt make noticable sound at all and rarely spikes into the 70 degrees (celcius) unless im playing something AAA like CP2077
I just put 6 t30s in my HD500 and the difference from stock fans was about 9°c at the same dB.
They're awesome if they fit your case
12:01 Jay, if you're trying a bigger graphics card, you now have 5mm more space between the radiator and case to work with for your tube because of the extra fan thickness. You might have a few more options to route that tube.
Fans/rad sit on top of the case plate so that height didn't change
my sff case of choice is the lian-li Tu-150wa. Not great for watercooling but aircooling is great, plus the handle makes easy travel taking it to work and back daily
i loved the small jab at steve... good to have friends like that!
I'm disappointed you didn't do the PSU with noctua fans. I bet the added flow rate makes up the difference and you can have quiet times again. Also, I've wondered why there isn't a blocking plate on form factors to isolate the air intake for radiators. Especially pulling air out, seems like a shroud/blocking plate from the rest of the PC would really help. Like a little radiator tray that the fans pull cold air from. Almost like having the radiator away from the case all together. Seems like that would make sense.
If you want silent try working with a Laminar Flow Element on the far end of the exhaust.
You do not want Laminar Flow inside the case however as the air won't mix and cool properly.
WWWIIIINNNNKKKKKKK XD
I have a cooler master nr200p max with a 5600x and 3090 FE and it has EXCELLENT cooling. This case looks nice too. Id love to see more sff stuff become more popular, because there aren't many cases good for high horsepower AND small builds
I added several 3/4” and 1” holes to my case. The airflow did not improve as much as I had hoped but there are fewer material restrictions and t is a little cooler.
Seems to me that it would be a bit more efficient if the fans were positioned above the rad, pulling air through, rather than below, pushing air through, since pushing should cause more air splash. Don't know if that's possible in this case, though, due to needing more room for the water tubes if the rad is positioned lower.
What is the cheapest 4k gaming PC with and without RGB you can currently build for Apirl 1st 2022?
Those fans are kinda fabulous. Nice methodical testing, great looking rig too.
I think this case is my next PC build when I upgrade, im still rocking my 1080 TI and Ryzen 2700. I’d like to upgrade to a 3080 or 3080 TI and a Ryzen 7000 when they drop
@Transistor Jump nah, I’m probably gonna skip the 4000 series, I’ll get a. Cheaper card that is phenomenal
@@TheMrHolmes Good call. AMD might also be interesting next time around. The 7700XT should be a monster if leaks are to be believed.
@@DigitalJedi very true
i modified my shift xt build and found an oled display that perfectly fits where that infinity mirror panel sits. looks pretty nifty if i do say so my self.
Should have put a temp sensor behind the PSU before and after flip. Radiant heat on the back of the PSU is probably less of an issue than sucking heat into it.
Aside from everyone screaming about undervolting the FE Card, you can also flip the fans to the top of the rad as intake and let the air flow out of the mesh on its own. Immediate access to room temp is better than immediate access to component heat in an SFF case.
Then you're making the card fight against the rad fans. CPU temps will get way better but his already bad GPU temps will tank
These fans are reaaally similar to the Noctua A-12x25, so these are thinner but same 0.5mm frame to blade distance, high performance bearing and rotor motor, and they come in black
Thanks for the info! My Phanteks Evolve Shift doesn't arrive until the end of Apr here in Sweden. But now I have some better ideas on how my build should go when I finally put it all together. Also, thanks for the review of the Phanteks T30 fans. I was planning to use a slightly smaller RGB fan. Maybe now I will skip the RGB fans. I really don't look at the lights when I am working and I don't typically play games on my machines; I am a design engineer (RF/microwave/antenna circuit design & simulation), so I use my machines for simulation & design work. When I run an antenna simulation (phased array type structures), the amount of CPU/GPU usage can be very high for hours at a time (longest run I ever had was 26.5 hours over a weekend).
please bring back the RTFM show. God I miss hanging with yall on Fridays
While I do understand the upgrade with the Fans, why not just limit the frames to the main monitor Hertz?
I recently switched my pc case to a Fractal case and compared to the case I was using it’s amazing. The case I was using is the Maingear Shift Super Stock* (don’t know for sure if it is a Super Stock) the case is MASSIVE! Built like a damn tank! I’m not much of a regular pc user and I don’t play pc games (Xbox console.. yea, you’re envious!) so that pc tower was not practical. Wanna buy the case? 😁
If you want RGB with the Phanteks T30's, you could always just add the Phanteks Halo Lux Digital LED Frames. They go well together.
@17:39 I have been flipping the PSU as an additional exhaust for every PC I have built and repaired (people used to laugh at me even when I told them the rational - until they saw the benefits themselves in trying to prove me wrong lol). I noticed that with the PSU flipped down (fan facing bottom of the case) actually has the PSU run alot warmer regardless if the PC is placed on a desk or carpet. The latter is worse as there is so much dust accumulation that can cause a short circuit and actually fry the components. I've seen it happen in a poorly cleaned case (as in never cleaned). Additionally, every GPU blows hot air right onto the PSU plate not only causing heatsoak - it also has the effect of having heat linger in the case alot longer as well as having the heat bounce back into the GPU. Thus causing the case to run hotter by a few degrees - this effect is made worse in poorly ventilated cases.
Any downsides, e.g. longevity?
@@banescar My current PSU is over 10 years old at this point, I've been having the fan point into the case since I started building mostly because when I started the PSUs where mounted at the top of the case and there were no holes to have the PSU point up and now it's part habit and part because my room has carpet. Unless you can put your case on a desk(which I can't because 1. My desk wouldn't allow for it and 2. It's a Full Tower) then having it point down seems like a bad idea because of all the dust down near the floor.
PSU flip around is a great idea actually , i flipped my SF750 in NR200p and it did a great job , as long as you dont use somekind of psu like bronze level your psu doesn't have that much heat problem .
Some cases like my current one the Power Supply is completely sealed from the rest of the components so it won't help flipping it
Cases like the Fractal Torrent is designed with the PSU on top like older cases to draw in air which is really cool and what I prefer.
Is the fan on a psu an exhaust fan or a supply fan? Meaning, does it draw air into the psu, or exhaust it out? When Jay flipped it, did the fan go to the top or the bottom? I’ve read my Seasonic manual several times and they don’t explain this, if anyone can shed light pls do.
Something of note also is the top case perforations have a lot of flat metal between them that obstructs full fan flow, and the reason after much experimentation in my limited build experience that I will sometimes neatly cut the fan hole out in the back of rear case punch outs and install a chrome wire fan grille - they flow and they are the absolute best flowing and quietest grille you can use, thought not great looking which is why I only do this mod on tha back case panel exhaust fans - really quiets the fan down and increases the air flow though.
I might be off base here but wouldn't you move more air controlling for dB if you did a high end high static pressure 15mm thick fan under the rad and a 15mm think fan on top? That way the HSP fan doesn't have to work as hard to move air through the rad.
I mean, the heavy buzzing sound with those new performance fans would make me throw the whole computer down after 2 min. Reducing the FPS to a 240fps cap would drastically improve thermals without even changing hardware. Underclock would also help a lot. Silence is key.
For anyone looking to recreate this combo of case and AIO cooler - the 240T30 AIO --- DOES NOT FIT.
This was corroborated by Phanteks support.
Your only option is to set the top of the case directly on top of the AIO radiator. This makes the case feel janky anytime you need to move it around as the top is not fixed to the actual structure. I just found this out today after completing my build this past weekend and banging my head on the desk trying to figure out why the top of the case will not attach properly.
Hypothetically could you throw some of those rgb ring's on those fans in a different case?
I am working on a build with a 12700k and a 3080Ti. I plan on undervolting my stuff to help with thermals and noise. I unfortunately can't flip my PSU as i stuff all my excess cables in that slot. Probably not the best
Jay id' be curious to see what the temp differences are if you flipped the aio fans to where it's pulling air into the chassis. Cooler air hitting the rad and pushing air through the system over the components and out of the system.
I have to admit, I was expecting the TR30 to be at least a bit quieter while not going 100% fanspeed since we are talking about a fan-design similar to the AF12x25. Still like the sound of the AF12x25 more since for me it sounds deeper. Kind a sad since I was hoping for (more) competition in this regard (sound profile of the motor / rotor) as well.
If you put Phanteks T30x30 at the same fan speed as Noctua A12x25, it will perform similar, because the fan is thicker (tho the frequency is higher and it "sounds" worse). But T30 is build to brute force as much fan speed as possible for the lowest temperatures, so if you want a jet engine, get T30. If you want 99% the same performance for a lot less noise, Noctua A12x25 is still king. And undervolt is underated, you save 10c just by doing it.
Thanks for making these types of videos, I learn so much from them
What about getting an Aquacomputer Quadro and a temperature sensor--and controlling the fans via Aquasuite?
Given how much air the fans are pushing on top - would a top dust filter be of use or would it just restrict air flow?
I like SFF for office type PCs and other low performance applications. I'm not really a fan of using them for high performance applications. It's cool that there are some workarounds for people who are really challenged for space, but my personal favorite is MicroATX.
I really love the way this case looks
highly suggest trying a non founders edition gpu and you will likely see a 5-10 degree better temps. I use a Meshlicious case (all mesh panels) with a 6700 xt (Red Devil) and 5600 x both slightly overclocked - and the system runs cooler and quieter. Running an EK 280 AIO as only fans in the system.
my 2 c,,, small form factors are made for lighter computing that is less intrusive on the space available,
to me, it seems like the top side vent would stop the fans from efficiently pulling air through the bottom of the case. but IMO the best setups only have one intake and one exhaust.
Love those fans, I have mine in Advanced mode and normally its quiet blowing through my 360EK thick boy 60mm rad. Once it a while it'll go full tilt since its tied to CPU temps.
If you want performance in a silent build, go Noctua NF-A12x25, it's more silent than Phanteks T30, but T30 can brute force the most performance for a 120mm fan. If you want RGB, just undervolt the CPU, GPU and you will get 10C lower.
I have a video idea for you that would also be educational. You should undervolt the 3090 to lower temps which will also reduce the fan rpm and noise. You can get 5 degrees lower on GPU temps with a simple undervolt and not lose any clock speed or performance. From what I see in the SFF community it's common practice. You should make a video on how to undervolt your GPU using this PC and check out the results at the same time vs before. Even if you manage to fit a new card it would still be cool to see.
You know Jayztwocents is more of a overclock kind of guy? Which will put jet engine fans (T30) and just brute force it than putting quiet and powerful fans (Noctua A12x25) and undervolt a bit.
Why arent you using spacers to offset the riser cable so that you can use the founders on the outer 2 slots and create a bigger gap like this for the blow through fan.
did putting in thicker fans give you a bit more leeway in the way the AIO tubes bend?
I see you're still using that Corsair Xeneon. I managed to get one for $575 after a coupon last week and it delivers tomorrow. Pretty stoked! Seemed like a no-brainer at that price.
I run my 3080ti slightly undervolted so it mantains constant high clock speeds with my fans at 75% when gaming and my temps are great, I have the same FE card and the auto fan settings allowed it to run hotter than i was happy with. Honestly the thing sounds like a jet engine at anything about 70-75% once you hit 80% it's crazy loud don't ever bother with 100% unless you have a loud headset or are further away from the computer, I sit quite close to my tower so i notice it a lot without headphones but for the most part i'll use headphones only on some single player games i'll use my speakers and crank them up as my bose speakers are good quality for gaming. I wish the card ran quieter but gpu's are never going to be that silent when they're running games. I am very happy with it though it's an insanely powerful gpu. the vram temps concerned me the most but i've done enough research to know the safe limits for gddr6x now. PS. just for reference I have a corsair 5000d airflow with 7 ll120 fans and a noctua nh a12u air cooler on my cpu so no rads in my system.
I want to do a build like this but I'm too wary of the thermals and fitting GPUs and cables
It's not very hard ,if you build one pc by ur own. I just using the Jonsbo A4 for my ITX Build. You only need a good idea what fits and what not. If you want 3 slot Cards no problem, go for Phanteks, Coolermaster or some other. If you want more Fans go for something bigger. My Build working fine for my Conditions and only running in Silentmode all the Time (900rpm on 4 Fans).
I built in a NR200P max and it’s really simple
Well Nr200 is one of the simplier Cases. Stressful goes with Sandwich Layout 😂
I always use the 240mm RAD on the GPU and not the CPU. But if you have a Intel CPU then its understandable as those run ultra hot.
I would like to see what different it makes to remove the side filters. Gives a nice look at the hardware, too
No difference from my testing.
I’ve never built in small form factor but always wanted to. Definitely my next build or when I get round to one.
I highly recommend the NR200/P model. Its a great introductory SFF/ITX case. If not, the NZXT h1 was literally the easiest I've built in. I saw some guy on RUclips build one in
same. after watching an unhealthy amount of optimum techs youtube channel i'm obsessed with sff builds. 100% plan on my next build being sff. they're so fricken cool.
well jay taught me that you can control your fans through armoury crate.. I never knew that.. thanks jay!
I really love that Evolve Shift XT Case Jay!!!
But Jay.... what about people who want to use it full water cool system... what then... can it be DONE??? would it make it run cooler and a lot better? wondering minds like to know
Its actually pretty insane how much this little thing can do. I mean can you imagine this much power from such a small pc a couple of years ago?
thanks for covering this direction. im ALWAYS preferring cooler system over noise. granted, im running on an old system, and pushing the hell out of it it as a modern system, (4XXX i5) but i consider 60c as hot, im currently 29c on core. and pushing it playing games and such will get me to the 50's, i consider that ok, anything higher, and there is an issue. this would also show why running it cooler over a long time is why i still have this system as operational as it is.
cover more about lowering temps please.
Try stuffing the case with delta fans.... i have a Corsair carbide pro case fitted with a total of 6 DELTA fans and stays cool all day long even through gaming, the highest I've seen my stuff go is 45*c... before anyone asks "what about the noise?"... it pays to have noise-cancelling headphones.
lian li st 120 fans have a 2.6mmH20 static pressure if you want good static pressure and rgb
I put one of those same fans on my 120 AIO on my Aurora 10. Needed something that moved a lot of air and was quieter. It’s been good for me.
How come a lot of RUclipsrs don’t consider undercoating the card? That was the first thing I did and I dropped 10C!! At lower volume while simultaneously doing a decent overclock!
This is the way!