The Art Of Solo, Matt Bush
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- Опубликовано: 22 май 2017
- ‘Art of Solo’ captures Matt Bush as he free solos Paarl Mountain, one of the world’s largest granite domes in South Africa. The impressive formation is comparable to Australia’s Ayers Rock in majesty. Matt sets his sights on soloing the committing, ‘Casualties of War’ (6c+/5.11b). The route was opened in 2004 and has seen few ascents. It follows the most prominent line up the rock. Matt says, “It may only be graded 6c+/5.11b but grades are often not a true measure of difficulty for soloing. There are many other variables to factor in. I’ve soloed overhanging routes at 8a+/5.13d repeatedly but this route feels much harder. The movement style is delicate, on-balance and very technical. The margin for error is small. Sometimes the hands and feet are pressed into tiny quartzite crystals. The first crux revolves around two apposing gastons, setting the feet up high and reaching far to a good hold. It’s a dynamic move. The final crux involves a long reach off a layback with both feet smearing on marginal holds. It feels extremely exposed. These factors combine to make this a new level of solo for me. Near the top there’s a small ledge to turnaround on which is probably the highlight of the climb. When it comes to choosing a route for solo I look for something that’s challenging but the beauty of the place and the movement style are determining factors. This particular route has it all in one. It’s a dream solo.”
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If that was me I'd be painting the rock too. Brown.
Many unknown people have soloed hard climbing routes. Most of these people stay far far away from any media. Huge alpine faces in the Canadian Rockies have been soloed, stiff, exposed and long rock climbing route have been soloed in the Laurentians. One day, as usual, I was soloing a route and on a small ledge there was a tree. I kept climbing pass the small ledge and suddenly a small foothold broke off, I fell off immediately but the tree was not far and without even realizing what I was doing, I grab the tree at a speed nearly as fast as light (not like exagerated rambo way). It surely saved me and after that day, I did one or two more route without a rope but I finally realized that NOt a single climb anywhere in the world is worth someone's life. Immediately after the incident (that I kept secret) I saw myself as a figure of the past and I imagined people making comments like how stupid I was by climbing without a rope. Today, NO more solo climbs, now at 66 y old, I love scrambling and hiking in the mountains. It is my personnal choice.
is it really a free solo if you don't do any 360 dynos?
He climbs mountains without ropes. As far as I'm concerned he can have all the ego he wants.
Music takes away from it. Better to hear the sounds of nature, wind, a bird chirping in the distance, whatever happens to be there in the moment. I’ve overdosed enough on inspirational piano music with orchestral accompaniment backing a commercial about someone who persevered through the ups and downs opening a rotisserie chicken restaurant.
I'm legit surprised he didn't say he's becoming one with the rock
Hes got nothing on alex
You guys who say he's pretentious clearly don't get what it feels like to pour every hour of you life into a sport and achieve mastery. It IS art, poetry, discipline and creative expression. If you want examples of pretentious people, look at 95% of hollywood and TV. This guy is not one of them, he just dedicated his life to a single discipline and he deeply enjoys it.
Wearing his wife’s leggings is more dangerous than that climb.
My biggest disappointment in life is waking up in the morning.
Anyone capable of free soloing like this is by definition a remarkable human being. The mental strength, focus and discipline required are far beyond what most people can even imagine. I just wish that guys like Matt Bush and Alex Honnold would apply their unbelievable talents towards endeavors in which a single, minor mistake - inevitable for all human beings - would not result in their immediate death.
Matt: Nature is my canvas, I paint with my movements.
Stunning, extraordinary, courageous and moving, and that's just the cameraman!
Matt, that line looks so clean and beautiful. Truly an amazing route. Well done
It never ceases to amaze me how people will go to any lengths possible to be negative and tear people down. This was awesome to watch and very inspiring.
Free solo climbing is the ignored sport. There is no other endeavor, sporting wise, that gives me chills like this. You guys are incredible.
Every time I watch these solo climb videos my hands and feet get sweaty. There's no room for error, no second chances. You have to have some big balls to do this.
Love the photography! Thanks for the work and inspiration.
Great video, thank you for Saturday evenings motivation for Sundays climb.
The mindset and how you piece together every move.... Free solo, it is a feeling only a few will understand.