Nice shop Frank ,built one using the three speed gear box about twenty years ago . Worked really well i wish there were rubber tracks back then sure would of made it a lot easy'er .I did what you done and got the big change , i think i put 12" pads on it . Gave to a friend and he land scaped 3 acres with it . It looked like a small D10 .......Have fun.................Oh , he still has it and still use it from time to time ..............
Wonderful content about how the hydrostat works. I understand how it works now and your explanation really made it easy. Thanks for the knowledge. I just messaged Mat at Diesel Creek about your vids only because he has a collection of vintage Cub Cadet tractors. I always watch will it run videos or things like you offer.
I have already seen you operating the dosser and was wondering how you made it steer so effortlessly, now I know. can't wait to look at the next video.
@@woodandmetalshoptime8048 I think it is amazing what you are doing. I see that you are going to change the drive from what the actual dozer is but what you are doing is far more practical than trying to engineer the drive sprocket being the upper drive and the 2 bottom rollers as the idlers. A remarkable project and I also see in your shop you have a model grader as well.
The plan is to use the upper idler as the tensioner, allowing both drive axles to remain fixed. I guess we'll see how that works out! Thanks for watching!
You are not the only one to suggest that. That would be easier, for sure, but it would lose the charm of a vintage Cub Cadet conversion. I'm trying to use as many parts from these old tractors as I can and you can't argue with the benefits of the weight of these axles for traction. But I've thought about it...
Sold wire welding I take it. You'd have better luck tacking a small backing plate on the back side of that gap and weld in a downward direction. There's no need to weave back and forth that wide to achieve penetration. Heat soaked metal is a weak point in the overall integrity. Smaller welds with gussets and layers will yield better results.
Frank nice job on the video with keeping everything in the picture along with a great explanation, looking forward to more! Do you have a background in engineering or machining or is this your hobby?
I'm still learning how to do this camera stuff, LOL. I am an engineer by trade (nuclear) but most of my career was actually in IT and business/finance management. This is just a hobby. Thanks for watching!
You know if you leave your welds on there and dont grind them off it will be very strong. If you grind them off then It wont be very strong at all. You would need to v the joint first for it to be strong. Other wise your just welding on top and then wiping it off with the grinder so no strength at all. You could plate weld it on the inside then grind off the outside it would be fine. I have a 149 I took apart and painted them my wife told me she wanted her house painted and I never did put it back together. I am concerned about the trans fan being broken and I took off the regulator and I dont remember how to wire it back up to the gauge and the generator. I wish I would have put it back together when I was doing it. I may be able to do it but I am working on 24 other projects like solar trackers and both my car and truck need attention. Too many projects.
As for the welds, the frame splice is welded from both sides, achieving full penetration. The weld on the inside of the frame is not ground smooth. The outside is. The frame will be reinforced as well.
Just found your channel, going through the older videos. Instead of modifying the trunnion couldn’t you have just turned it 180 degrees thus switching its forward/ reverse range of motion? Nice job, can’t wait to see more.
There would still be a difference between forward and reverse speeds, and with a small (12 inch) drive sprocket, that would be a problem as speed is reduced by half compared to the 23 inch tires.
Out of interest (because I’ve never handled a hydrostat) could you have rotated the swash plate 180° to give you a matching, but opposed, set of motors? Or does it make more sense for a dozer to have matching forward and reverse speeds?
Not trying to be rude but maybe hit a night welding class at a tech college. U will learn a lot on set up an how not over heat ur welding area. Seems like u jus need more practice with a knowledge instructor, and paying for classes opens you up to do as much as you want with their equipment an not working ur small machine to death. Great work with the hydro's. That's one thing I need to get more into.
I wonder if it would be possible to remove the axles and differentials altogether and just put both hydrostats side-by-side in the rear, with their output shafts driving the rear wheels. I would be concerned that driving one track from the front, and one from the rear will cause problems. This might be even more of an issue with your big tensioner. One side will be pulling against ground friction directly, and the other will be compressing the tensioner before it receives ground friction. I know that most drive-chain tensioners are typically placed on the slack side of a chain, and in your case you will have one tensioner on the tight side, and one on the slack side.
There is no way to run them side by side, so the diagonally opposite drives is a compromise. I agree it's not ideal, but it's what I've got. We'll see how well it works. Remember, even the big boys have to go backwards, and they are driving on slack track doing that.
How’d you sort out the speed differential from forward to reverse seeing as your planning on running it what seems to be in reverse? Reckon I should just shut up and watch the video because it’s obvious our brains asks the same questions when doing this type of stuff
@@woodandmetalshoptime8048 found it sorry for so many questions btw Ik comments and likes help push your videos forward so I’ve been doing what little I can plus I really like this project want to build one of these for my little nephew actually been thinking of starting with a zero turn since it would already give me individual control of both wheels
Main difference is in reinforcements/cross members rather than the actual frame thickness. I think both are 12ga. Of course rear ends are completely different.
The modification that you’re doing to the trunnion on the rear hydrostat will also need to be done to the front hydrostat unless you never plan on backing up on the dozer. Edit Oops @1:15:30 you mention that. 😳
I haven't actually modified the other one yet, but it's on the list of stuff to do. In EP #4 I talk about it some, but it will be EP #5 before that's actually complete. Thanks for watching!
@@jwacker6590 I was wondering the same thing. Since he has to extend the axels anyway why not add a disc braking system to each stub shaft at the rear. I would think it would be a lot less complicated and more compact design
![YoungBoy Never Broke Again - Missing Everything [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/dTYeMZGzOzw/mqdefault.jpg)
Best description of how a hydrostatic works also the man who designed that was a genius extremely simple hydro dynamics
First class workmanship and instruction ! Looking forward to next. AAMOI, building a driving wheel barrow from a Cadet GTX1054. with SV740 Kohler !
The coolest thing I've seen on RUclips in a while. I swear I thought the grader came Factory like that LOL it took me a second to see it was custom
Nice shop Frank ,built one using the three speed gear box about twenty years ago . Worked really well i wish there were rubber tracks back then sure would of made it a lot easy'er .I did what you done and got the big change , i think i put 12" pads on it . Gave to a friend and he land scaped 3 acres with it . It looked like a small D10 .......Have fun.................Oh , he still has it and still use it from time to time ..............
Nice work on your various Cub Cadet builds. We shared this video in our homemade tools forum this week :)
Awesome, thank you!
Wonderful content about how the hydrostat works. I understand how it works now and your explanation really made it easy. Thanks for the knowledge. I just messaged Mat at Diesel Creek about your vids only because he has a collection of vintage Cub Cadet tractors. I always watch will it run videos or things like you offer.
Very informative, unfortunately I lost audio towards the end of the episode. Looking forward to more videos. Thanks for sharing.
I have already seen you operating the dosser and was wondering how you made it steer so effortlessly, now I know. can't wait to look at the next video.
Great Job Frank. I have done quite a few thousand hours on D10's and am looking forward to see your finished project.
I could use a consultant!
@@woodandmetalshoptime8048 I think it is amazing what you are doing. I see that you are going to change the drive from what the actual dozer is but what you are doing is far more practical than trying to engineer the drive sprocket being the upper drive and the 2 bottom rollers as the idlers. A remarkable project and I also see in your shop you have a model grader as well.
The plan is to use the upper idler as the tensioner, allowing both drive axles to remain fixed. I guess we'll see how that works out! Thanks for watching!
@@woodandmetalshoptime8048 Why are you using two hydrostats? Dosers typically only drive from the rear.
@@jwacker6590 It's a tracked vehicle so needs to turn by varying the rotation on one track vs the other. A single, standard mower hydro won't do that.
Slick looking welds there Frank. One could put some scab plates for added security on both sides but doubt it would be needed.
Thanks. Hard to do a bad weld with the MIG. But I'm still learning.
You're doing a great job on the dozer build! I can't wait for the next episode. Keep up the good work.
Thanks a bunch!
when cutting metal like you were the frames. start at the bottom and score your line, much easier to keep it straight. great job btw.
You will have a better looking weld if you weld from the top down, it just flows better.
I'm beginning to understand that. In Episode 8, I actually do that pretty consistently. Thanks for the tip!
I've pondered the idea and concluded that a zero turn would perhaps be a decent starting point.
You are not the only one to suggest that. That would be easier, for sure, but it would lose the charm of a vintage Cub Cadet conversion. I'm trying to use as many parts from these old tractors as I can and you can't argue with the benefits of the weight of these axles for traction. But I've thought about it...
Sold wire welding I take it. You'd have better luck tacking a small backing plate on the back side of that gap and weld in a downward direction. There's no need to weave back and forth that wide to achieve penetration. Heat soaked metal is a weak point in the overall integrity. Smaller welds with gussets and layers will yield better results.
Frank nice job on the video with keeping everything in the picture along with a great explanation, looking forward to more! Do you have a background in engineering or machining or is this your hobby?
I'm still learning how to do this camera stuff, LOL. I am an engineer by trade (nuclear) but most of my career was actually in IT and business/finance management. This is just a hobby. Thanks for watching!
⁷⁷77
Id love to come work with this man for free the knolage and where he has worked .
You know if you leave your welds on there and dont grind them off it will be very strong. If you grind them off then It wont be very strong at all. You would need to v the joint first for it to be strong. Other wise your just welding on top and then wiping it off with the grinder so no strength at all. You could plate weld it on the inside then grind off the outside it would be fine. I have a 149 I took apart and painted them my wife told me she wanted her house painted and I never did put it back together. I am concerned about the trans fan being broken and I took off the regulator and I dont remember how to wire it back up to the gauge and the generator. I wish I would have put it back together when I was doing it. I may be able to do it but I am working on 24 other projects like solar trackers and both my car and truck need attention. Too many projects.
As for the welds, the frame splice is welded from both sides, achieving full penetration. The weld on the inside of the frame is not ground smooth. The outside is. The frame will be reinforced as well.
Just found your channel, going through the older videos. Instead of modifying the trunnion couldn’t you have just turned it 180 degrees thus switching its forward/ reverse range of motion? Nice job, can’t wait to see more.
There would still be a difference between forward and reverse speeds, and with a small (12 inch) drive sprocket, that would be a problem as speed is reduced by half compared to the 23 inch tires.
Out of interest (because I’ve never handled a hydrostat) could you have rotated the swash plate 180° to give you a matching, but opposed, set of motors? Or does it make more sense for a dozer to have matching forward and reverse speeds?
Yes, you could rotate one of the swash plates to get matching speeds but they would still be different in "forward" and "reverse."
Not trying to be rude but maybe hit a night welding class at a tech college. U will learn a lot on set up an how not over heat ur welding area. Seems like u jus need more practice with a knowledge instructor, and paying for classes opens you up to do as much as you want with their equipment an not working ur small machine to death. Great work with the hydro's. That's one thing I need to get more into.
I wonder if it would be possible to remove the axles and differentials altogether and just put both hydrostats side-by-side in the rear, with their output shafts driving the rear wheels.
I would be concerned that driving one track from the front, and one from the rear will cause problems. This might be even more of an issue with your big tensioner. One side will be pulling against ground friction directly, and the other will be compressing the tensioner before it receives ground friction. I know that most drive-chain tensioners are typically placed on the slack side of a chain, and in your case you will have one tensioner on the tight side, and one on the slack side.
There is no way to run them side by side, so the diagonally opposite drives is a compromise. I agree it's not ideal, but it's what I've got. We'll see how well it works. Remember, even the big boys have to go backwards, and they are driving on slack track doing that.
@@woodandmetalshoptime8048 Good point. I look forward to following the rest of your build!
How’d you sort out the speed differential from forward to reverse seeing as your planning on running it what seems to be in reverse? Reckon I should just shut up and watch the video because it’s obvious our brains asks the same questions when doing this type of stuff
Modified the swash plate in the hydrostatic transmissions so they run same speed forward and reverse. Episode 3 I believe shows the modification.
@@woodandmetalshoptime8048 found it sorry for so many questions btw Ik comments and likes help push your videos forward so I’ve been doing what little I can plus I really like this project want to build one of these for my little nephew actually been thinking of starting with a zero turn since it would already give me individual control of both wheels
If angle grinders weren't invented how would any projects get done anymore?
You got that right!
Frames not as thick on the 1450 as I thought just how I was looking at it
Main difference is in reinforcements/cross members rather than the actual frame thickness. I think both are 12ga. Of course rear ends are completely different.
The modification that you’re doing to the trunnion on the rear hydrostat will also need to be done to the front hydrostat unless you never plan on backing up on the dozer.
Edit
Oops @1:15:30 you mention that. 😳
I haven't actually modified the other one yet, but it's on the list of stuff to do. In EP #4 I talk about it some, but it will be EP #5 before that's actually complete. Thanks for watching!
The one by the door looks as the other like race cars of midget class to my quick eyes.
Could you please send me that other transmission.
so u didnt clean the dirty valve plates
lol vfd wiring.
If it's a bulldozer why do you need to drive axles you should only need one
need to control each track independently, forward and reverse. Each axle drives one track. Check out episodes 3 and 4 where it's all explained.
@@woodandmetalshoptime8048 why not use one in the rear and a braking system. Brake the track you don't want to spin...
@@jwacker6590 I was wondering the same thing. Since he has to extend the axels anyway why not add a disc braking system to each stub shaft at the rear. I would think it would be a lot less complicated and more compact design
A brake design does not allow you to go forward on one track and backwards on the other at the same time.