Nice job man. but leaving a small gap between the side pieces and the ceiling would have helped to easily level the pieces where they meet without having to plane them down. This helps because because no ceiling is absolutely 100% flat and the gap would have been covered up by the crown molding anyway.
Yes that is true and in a few spots I did scribe some material off. Sheetrock is never 100% flat and framing is never perfect. I was avoiding scribing to help keep the reveal underneath the crown a uniform size. It would involve a lot of extra work to keep everything perfectly flat without ripping off sheetrock and installing furring strips and shims. The room was partially an addition with a large load bearing beam running down the middle of the room creating a hump that couldn’t really be fixed. In some spots it was almost and inch difference in ceiling height.
@@pinerowfurniture I understand. That’s why I said leaving the gap would’ve helped. You could have left as much and an inch gap to compensate. The crown molding would have covered it up anyway. Hey you live and you learn.
@@pf5658 Always learning something new every day! Best part about construction and woodworking is that there is rarely a situation that has only one correct way to do it.
What kind of putty or filler did u use where your boards intersect? I used dap plastic wood on mine and they all cracked with expansion - nice work btw
I often use MH readypatch for nails amzn.to/3R6gztJ but when it comes to joints that I know will potentially crack from wood movement I will use Sashco big stretch amzn.to/3NaSzo9 It is paintable and stays very elastic so it wont pull away from the surface it is adhered to.
You got some skills brother. Thanks for sharing.
kick ass job brother.
Great stuff man
Nice Work!!! what are the measurements of the coffered beams width x height
Was the 3/4 pine a 1 x 6? Just curious tall they are. Love the technique. About to do this at my house. I could not tell if it was a 1 x 4 or a 1 x 6
Nice job man. but leaving a small gap between the side pieces and the ceiling would have helped to easily level the pieces where they meet without having to plane them down. This helps because because no ceiling is absolutely 100% flat and the gap would have been covered up by the crown molding anyway.
Yes that is true and in a few spots I did scribe some material off. Sheetrock is never 100% flat and framing is never perfect. I was avoiding scribing to help keep the reveal underneath the crown a uniform size. It would involve a lot of extra work to keep everything perfectly flat without ripping off sheetrock and installing furring strips and shims. The room was partially an addition with a large load bearing beam running down the middle of the room creating a hump that couldn’t really be fixed. In some spots it was almost and inch difference in ceiling height.
@@pinerowfurniture I understand. That’s why I said leaving the gap would’ve helped. You could have left as much and an inch gap to compensate. The crown molding would have covered it up anyway. Hey you live and you learn.
@@pf5658 Always learning something new every day! Best part about construction and woodworking is that there is rarely a situation that has only one correct way to do it.
What kind of putty or filler did u use where your boards intersect? I used dap plastic wood on mine and they all cracked with expansion - nice work btw
I often use MH readypatch for nails amzn.to/3R6gztJ but when it comes to joints that I know will potentially crack from wood movement I will use Sashco big stretch amzn.to/3NaSzo9 It is paintable and stays very elastic so it wont pull away from the surface it is adhered to.
@@pinerowfurniture thanks for the info and quick reply!!
Looks great! Are the ceilings 8 feet? Subscribed!😊
Yup they were typical 8 feet ceilings. Not flat though haha.