Great job detailing the steps and commentary on possible mistakes to watch out for. The CMAK is the best kit around and I'll be getting the upgraded version soon.
Happy to help! It was a learning experience for me so I'm hoping that any small issues I had are the same issues others might have! I am interested to know what's different about the updated version!
@@konradchristen better engage/disengage characteristics, stronger materials, and I think a better cylinder. I had the V1 and it worked well from 2011 till 2022, only issue is the creaking noise from the cylinder after about 8 years lol. I'd call and double check this info as it was a while ago that I asked. But if you have the V2 you should be good for many years to come.
My 09 Z clutch finally gave up after 110K miles. Exactly like what you're experiencing (clutch slipping @ highway speed, would not get in or out of gear, etc). I just ordered the ZSpeed package and can't wait to get them installed. I would love to do the CMAK kit but decided to go with the HD CSC instead. Chances are it will probably last the life of the car anyways and it's all I could afford for now 😅 Great videos man. Keep up the good work
Happy to help! Don’t be afraid to put some RBF600 in the clutch line while doing this! Most of the fluid will come out anyways so it’s the perfect time!
Great video. Does the clutch fork hit the back of the transmission window at full pedal travel/close to full travel on your car? I’ve verified that we have all of the proper parts and correct install complete. I measured 16mm from the front of the fork to the transmission window. (Optimum according to directions). The pedal hits the back of the window at close to full pedal travel. Parts: - Zspeed cmak V3 w/ V3 tall throw out bearing - Zspeed LW FW and Super six clutch All parts are brand new.
Hey bro quick question how long did it take to convert to CMAK after the trans was dropped? Im getting ready to have my G get a CMAK but just trying to be concious of the labor time Did you find it necessary to swap out the master cylinder as well?
Great video, wondering if you have any quick thoughts on Z1 CSC vs Z speed CMAK? I read about it on lots of forums and seems like there is a huge community preferring the zspeed?
So back when I was doing my install Z1 didn't offer a CSC "delete kit" like they do now. But Z speed pioneered that swap and Z1 made a similar kit afterwards. I just watched Z1's video on their kit and I'm sure it works fine, but it is a more complicated install (barely) than the ZSpeed kit, and at a similar level of cost, with a more simple design, I'd probably go with the Zspeed kit. But my opinion is that Z1 makes high quality stuff so I bet it would be fine too.
@@konradchristen this only happened twice and the burnt clutch smell was BAD! It happened at around 5k miles on the clutch and then 21k miles on the clutch. Thr RJM catch point has been adjusted from 75-25 in both instances. The mechanic who installed the CMAK and new clutch later installed another new slave and master per my request but it still happened.
So slipping under load doesn’t really have to do with your Slave / master cylinders unless they are accidentally applying force when they shouldn’t. And as they fail they tend to become less effective at disconnecting the engine from trans. I wonder if you just don’t have enough clamping force from the pressure plate. Or if the clutch itself doesn’t have enough grip. When you utilize your clutch pedal, you are pushing the connection of engine/trans APART from each other. They are held together by the force of the “fingers” on the pressure plate and then in turn by the friction between the clutch and flywheel contacting each other.
@@konradchristen I forgot to mention.. The two times that the clutch slipped on launch, the tires didn't spin much but I lost pressure in the clutch pedal for a moment. The pedal was sinking to the floor with very little pressure after shifting 1-2-3
@@GTR24 hmm weird. That could be an issue with your fluid getting hot. It’s a common fix to switch to higher temp brake fluid in the clutch reservoir. But still the clutch pressure plate should hold the clutch against the flywheel regardless of fluid pressure. IE if you dumped out all your fluid, you would not slip but instead it would be impossible to disengage the clutch.
Great job detailing the steps and commentary on possible mistakes to watch out for. The CMAK is the best kit around and I'll be getting the upgraded version soon.
Happy to help! It was a learning experience for me so I'm hoping that any small issues I had are the same issues others might have! I am interested to know what's different about the updated version!
@@konradchristen better engage/disengage characteristics, stronger materials, and I think a better cylinder. I had the V1 and it worked well from 2011 till 2022, only issue is the creaking noise from the cylinder after about 8 years lol. I'd call and double check this info as it was a while ago that I asked. But if you have the V2 you should be good for many years to come.
@@Spushed Thanks for the info!
@@Spushed how do I distinguish what version is which and where do u recommend buying one
@@Spushed I just got the v3 but haven't installed yet , I also got the stage 2 quiet clutch kit from them as well
My 09 Z clutch finally gave up after 110K miles. Exactly like what you're experiencing (clutch slipping @ highway speed, would not get in or out of gear, etc). I just ordered the ZSpeed package and can't wait to get them installed. I would love to do the CMAK kit but decided to go with the HD CSC instead. Chances are it will probably last the life of the car anyways and it's all I could afford for now 😅
Great videos man. Keep up the good work
Happy to help! Don’t be afraid to put some RBF600 in the clutch line while doing this! Most of the fluid will come out anyways so it’s the perfect time!
Great video.
Does the clutch fork hit the back of the transmission window at full pedal travel/close to full travel on your car?
I’ve verified that we have all of the proper parts and correct install complete. I measured 16mm from the front of the fork to the transmission window. (Optimum according to directions). The pedal hits the back of the window at close to full pedal travel.
Parts:
- Zspeed cmak V3 w/ V3 tall throw out bearing
- Zspeed LW FW and Super six clutch
All parts are brand new.
So helpful and informative. Ty!
Awesome job and very nice 370Z! I just subscribed to your channel! Thanks for the knowledge!
Hey bro quick question how long did it take to convert to CMAK after the trans was dropped? Im getting ready to have my G get a CMAK but just trying to be concious of the labor time
Did you find it necessary to swap out the master cylinder as well?
Was the CSC that you removed the factory OEM one?
Looks like the heavy duty jwt csc
Great video, wondering if you have any quick thoughts on Z1 CSC vs Z speed CMAK? I read about it on lots of forums and seems like there is a huge community preferring the zspeed?
So back when I was doing my install Z1 didn't offer a CSC "delete kit" like they do now. But Z speed pioneered that swap and Z1 made a similar kit afterwards. I just watched Z1's video on their kit and I'm sure it works fine, but it is a more complicated install (barely) than the ZSpeed kit, and at a similar level of cost, with a more simple design, I'd probably go with the Zspeed kit. But my opinion is that Z1 makes high quality stuff so I bet it would be fine too.
how do you bleed it dude I try 1 hours does not work
And what about the master cylinder
I need help, my CMAK V2 with JWT Clutch and Flywheel + the RJM pedal mod has slipped in 3000 rpm launches
So what do you want help with? How new is the clutch? How much power are you pushing? Where is the “catch point” adjusted to on your RJM pedal
@@konradchristen this only happened twice and the burnt clutch smell was BAD!
It happened at around 5k miles on the clutch and then 21k miles on the clutch.
Thr RJM catch point has been adjusted from 75-25 in both instances.
The mechanic who installed the CMAK and new clutch later installed another new slave and master per my request but it still happened.
So slipping under load doesn’t really have to do with your Slave / master cylinders unless they are accidentally applying force when they shouldn’t. And as they fail they tend to become less effective at disconnecting the engine from trans.
I wonder if you just don’t have enough clamping force from the pressure plate. Or if the clutch itself doesn’t have enough grip.
When you utilize your clutch pedal, you are pushing the connection of engine/trans APART from each other. They are held together by the force of the “fingers” on the pressure plate and then in turn by the friction between the clutch and flywheel contacting each other.
@@konradchristen I forgot to mention.. The two times that the clutch slipped on launch, the tires didn't spin much but I lost pressure in the clutch pedal for a moment. The pedal was sinking to the floor with very little pressure after shifting 1-2-3
@@GTR24 hmm weird. That could be an issue with your fluid getting hot. It’s a common fix to switch to higher temp brake fluid in the clutch reservoir.
But still the clutch pressure plate should hold the clutch against the flywheel regardless of fluid pressure. IE if you dumped out all your fluid, you would not slip but instead it would be impossible to disengage the clutch.