Great video, there should be a disclaimer though. Tom and Pete have a very different perception of what "really painful" is compared to the rest of the world. Child birth is probably just "really painful" by their standards.
How do you 1) transition from fist jam to a hand-fist stack jam when the crack gets wider 2) move up when you use hand-fist stack? In both cases are you supposed to just put most of your weight onto your feet until you have the stack in place? Thanks!
Hey, don't know if you are still waiting but your question is a classic. And, shows what I consider to be a flaw in this video presentation. The typical crux of most Yosemite crack pitches is a transition, like from first to offwidth. In most cases, forget the hand/hand/fist stacking stuff. Footwork IS the key, and the arm bar for moving up, and use the chickenwing for repositioning your feet. If your knee doesn't fit in the crack, try pivoting your hips to face slightly away from the crack. With inside knee outside the crack set a toe heel (your foot will be more vertically oriented than horizontally), set your outside foot, similarly toe- heeled, just below the inside foot, switch to an arm bar and move up, chickenwing, reset feet etc. The real key here is shuffle your feet. Don't fully stand up on your inside foot (until the crack is wide enough to accept your knee)keep your outside foot in the crack, below your inside foot . This method of managing your feet can also be effective for fist cracks. Might try thinking of your body as a big mechanical jack, move up, reset move up, etc. This approach worked for the classic Yosemite offwidths in the 1970's, no cams of any size, no sticky rubber, no padded harnesses. Oh yeah, try carrying your gear on a hardware sling, that will help too. Especially with chimneys necking down to jam cracks
After pulling on the hand stack jam, how are you supposed to go for the next hand hold? seems like once you remove one hand that is part of the hand stack jam you would lose grip on the wall and fall...
I like how they're climbing with water running down the crack... No big deal...
Great video, there should be a disclaimer though. Tom and Pete have a very different perception of what "really painful" is compared to the rest of the world. Child birth is probably just "really painful" by their standards.
😅😅😅
I agree, these Wide Boyz climbed the feeling out of their hands when they made their crack machine in their basement in England. They're crazy!
How do you 1) transition from fist jam to a hand-fist stack jam when the crack gets wider 2) move up when you use hand-fist stack? In both cases are you supposed to just put most of your weight onto your feet until you have the stack in place? Thanks!
Hey, don't know if you are still waiting but your question is a classic. And, shows what I consider to be a flaw in this video presentation. The typical crux of most Yosemite crack pitches is a transition, like from first to offwidth. In most cases, forget the hand/hand/fist stacking stuff. Footwork IS the key, and the arm bar for moving up, and use the chickenwing for repositioning your feet. If your knee doesn't fit in the crack, try pivoting your hips to face slightly away from the crack. With inside knee outside the crack set a toe heel (your foot will be more vertically oriented than horizontally), set your outside foot, similarly toe- heeled, just below the inside foot, switch to an arm bar and move up, chickenwing, reset feet etc. The real key here is shuffle your feet. Don't fully stand up on your inside foot (until the crack is wide enough to accept your knee)keep your outside foot in the crack, below your inside foot . This method of managing your feet can also be effective for fist cracks. Might try thinking of your body as a big mechanical jack, move up, reset move up, etc. This approach worked for the classic Yosemite offwidths in the 1970's, no cams of any size, no sticky rubber, no padded harnesses. Oh yeah, try carrying your gear on a hardware sling, that will help too. Especially with chimneys necking down to jam cracks
After pulling on the hand stack jam, how are you supposed to go for the next hand hold? seems like once you remove one hand that is part of the hand stack jam you would lose grip on the wall and fall...
Matt Nicassio loosen the strength to get it sliding and rely on your feet to maintain tension to let you move up
If it’s an overhang. Use your knees and be upside down also
Anyone know the name of the route at 3:40? Is it Goliath at Burbage South?