I know this is an older video, but while there are a lot of good box/finger joint sled designs out there, I really appreciate this one as it resolves two specific points in sled design that often can get overcomplicated. First, at 0:43, the way the back fence is set up makes it much less work to ensure that the fence is perpendicular to the saw kerf. Instead of having to mess with the 5 cut method etc. which can involve fine adjustments, this design relies on cutting the base of the sled square, and then works from there. Second, at 1:35, using sandpaper or shims in order to ensure that the miter bars are a snug fit before gluing also saves the time and frustration of having to trim a piece of wood several times to get that perfect fit.
As if I don’t spend enough time in the shop, then I see this and my mind is blown away. I don’t know if I can figure out how you did it, but I’m going to try. This is one of the best jigs I have seen. I went to Woodcraft today and I can’t give $200 for a jig. This design is worthy of awards.
I used to use low end smooth on both side 18mm plywood from Home Depot. It was far and away the highest quality at the cheapest price for this kind of thing. I used to pay about $35 a sheet. I just looked and it's about $45 a sheet now. The veneer is extremely thin but there are not a lot of voids I used it to make low end painted cabinets with it mostly. I never found another source of plywood suitable for cabinets any where near this cheap any place else. The next step us is a lot.
Hey super cool! I put some nuts on my track slides before gluing them up.worked great! Have to scrap them with a chisel though :(. But it’s a nice strong snug fit. Once I realized the back is a removable jig template I fell inlove with it lol. I’m gonna use this jig to make so many of my projects. I recently got back into wood working. Me and my dad have a wood working shop in his basement. I decided I wanna get into furniture building. Now I need to make a Mortise and tennon jig.
I liked the project but I am too new at woodworking not to have some narration I got lost part way through, I might come back to you when I have more experience
@@victorhe7200 Oh sorry! Saw you use "Tradition Input". Bu it's still rare to see Chinese woodworker from North America on RUclips. Great contents hope to see more soon !!
Yeah his plan works very well. I made the blade guide exchangeable instead of gluing it. So if I need to change the blades with different sizes, I just need to change that blade guide.
6:56 World’s Largest Mustache Comb! Majestic to behold. 😂 Great vid. Easy to follow along and recreate your process at home. Thank you for this helpful tutorial
I've seen a couple of jigs that use a metal insert, but they need a very accurate set up to work (as I found when I tried it). This method using templates looks promising. The only tricky bit is getting the pin to match the kerf.
Richard Wiles, You are right. I just cut a few pins, see which is closest to the kerf (slightly thicker), then slowly sand it down. The good thing is, the whole jig doesn't need to be redone if the pin thickness or the pin position is not correct.
A great quality video but boy does it need some narration there is so much I question as to sizes etc.There is no way i could do this with guess work as a beginner
It's a fair bit of work to set up, but it's a nice jig to use. I'm thinking to make mine from aluminium for a bit more durability. Great idea though. Thanks for sharing.
When I started single blade finger jointing, I found that I was using the wrong type of blade which resulted in voids being formed at the bottom of the cut. I eventually found that the correct blade had to have the cutting edge at 90 degrees to the blade plate which then forms a proper cut without the need to apply excessive glue to fill these unsightly voids.
Hey I love this jig. I am struggling with one thing however. When I go to make my initial cut on the piece that will be jointed, I don't know how to set it up so that the two pieces will match. Does that make sense? Basically I dont know how far to set my first pass off of the edge of the blade
I am sorry I didn't make the video clearly. I just recorded the way I made the jig. The original plan was from Fisher's Shop. I modified his plan to make the blade guide changeable if we need to change blades with different thickness. For you easier to understand how to cut, you can go to his original video ruclips.net/video/5v1QYKWgTvs/видео.html. He explained clearly how to cut.
If you do a lot of box or finger joints, you should look in to a blade with flat teeth, especially for the 1/8" fingers so you don't get that little peak in the middle of the joints. Instead you get a nice flat surface and the joints look clean.
I mean granted I can learn alot just from watching but some commentary would be nice some context so I dont have to keep analyzing every step you take over and over so I don't miss anything
Did you ever think he may not speak english ? 🙄 Or, God forbid, he can't talk at all.?? 😒 If you can't figure it out after watching the video, you're not going to grasp it with a few words thrown in... some folks just want to be effing spoon-fed 🙄😂😂😂
hi, very nice jig, I would like to make one but the original plans from Fisher's Shop has been deleted because he made a different jig and I rather like your model, (so is it possible to have the dimensions ) thank you
Hello sir Thank you for this very beautiful video I am French, and I would like to know what is the reference of your saw blade because I think that this blade looks to be incredible quality. Thank you very much for answering me
I love Diablo blades, very durable and top quality for me. I was using Diabo 60-tooth thin kerf blade. For the best result of box finger joint, you may look for Flat Teeth blade. If it's too expensive, non flat teeth is fine too.
Hi Victor....Great Video and very inspiring indeed! Victor, I'd like to buy the miter/track that you use in this video, can you please let me know the make or model number, as I too have a Dewalt Table saw and I like that this miter has a long miter track that fits well into the Dewalt saw. Did you buy the track and the miter separately or do they come together. Thanks in advance for your response.
Julian Pereira, thank you for your support. The miter gauge is Kreg Precision Miter Gauge System. It comes with a fence. Model number should be KMS7102. The downside of this system is that the fence is too heavy and long for Dewalt's table. It's easy to tilt off the side when we push forward. And this was one of the reason I built an extension on the side for my table saw later on. If you want to find another one to compare, you may check out this guy's review. ruclips.net/video/0zMnY3ZKsZI/видео.html .
Just my $0.02, when he was making the template, he was using a long piece of stock making it easier to hold against the miter gauge for each cut. When you're making the cuts on a work piece, usually it's much taller and more narrow which means either fingers closer to the blade or clamping/un-clamping after each cut. With a jig and template, you clamp the work piece to the template and your fingers are much further from the danger zone, and you can quickly go from one cut to the next. This gives you a safer process for lots of repeated cuts that is just as fast as moving the work piece down the gauge.
maybe Im missing something, but if the point is to make box joints, and you used the Router table to make the box joint template in the desired size, isn't the table saw jig redundant?
@@victorhe7200 Thank you very much for the response. I'm going to take a shot at making a box jointed box. It will be small and I think I'm going to go with the simplest jig and a 1/8 inch kerf blade with flat teeth but I had been thinking of using my current cross cut blade but now I think I'll spring for a ripping blade probably a cheap one. One thing that I liked about your video was that you used the same saw I have. I had trouble with a sled I built using metal rails getting it to slide freely and the miter gauge the saw comes with wobbles too much for precision work (I put tape around it as a kludge). I think I'm going to follow exactly your procedure for making the sled. I've also thought about getting a small dado stack for my saw instead. I know DeWalt recommends against it but I think I might be able to use up to a 1/4 inch thick safely.
The precision is good. But keep in mind one thing, because the Kreg is 24 inches long, and the Dewalt jobsite table saw is not very wide, it's easy to tile off side, it's best to use with an extension platform on the side like what I built. But without the extension, it is still usable.
I had no idea of how this jig was going to work so most of the video made little sense. I had to flick over to near the end to see what it was and how it functioned. So, if you want to be a successful RUclipsr: 1. Show finished device and explain how it works 2. THEN show how it was constructed accompanied with explanatory voiceover.
The biggest problem looking at this video is that you basically see nothing that you are doing .your cuts in the wood how you move it above. If you place your video regarding over your saw there would be a great way to see and not always trying to figure out what you doing next....
What if you don't own a router? then how do you produce the 1/4" , 3/8", 1/2" & 3/4" box joint jigs? this just not a 2 jig fixture? as commented by Fisher's shop.
This jig is for using table saw to make the box joints only. But we need to find a way to make the joint template to put on the jig. The easiest way is to use router. If you can't access to router or different sizes of router bit, you may need to look for another jig design.
I might point out that ONLY the laying out and cutting for an initial template for each size of joint you want is needed... Even that this was modified from Fisher's to allow interchangeable blades with different widths, it still compensates for the width of blade on hand... and then all you really NEED is laying out for 1/4 or 3/8 inch ...etc... Without a router, the templates are still cut-able on a table-saw... pretty close to the way he demonstrated with his second template... AND the "easy" way to start would be by laying down some masking tape and marking out from the blade in desired increments... {from your specific list, I'd just go with 1/8" steps}... Everything else, you already have listed by dimensions in Fisher's design spec's... SO laying the tape out just far enough from the back-wall of the jig-box, you can see the steps and line up fairly quickly for template builds on your own... It's advisable to go ahead and pencil in some marks across the "top" of the new template, so you can be sure of waste-areas... and you might still prefer (as some of us do) to clean all that waste with a chisel and file... BUT... once a template's made... it's made, and you can build your collection either "preemptively" OR "as you go" reducing space and resource concerns for when and however often you might need a specific size of finger or box-joint. Finally, remember this is a convenience. It's NOT a required piece of gear for your shop to accomplish joinery at all. No matter how cleverly we create conveniences in our shops, there's just NO replacement for the skills to do this stuff on your own. ;o)
The wood glue I am using, it's Titebond, it's very common in US. As they claim, it's FDA approved for indirect food contact; after drying, the bonding is stronger and the wood; also drillable, moisture resistant, sandable, solvent resistant, UV/sunlight resistant.
I've watched so many cross cutting sled videos and have always wondered why TWO runners? Each and every miter gage has exactly ONE runner. Seems like asking for over-constraint.
Wihelm Taylor, thank you for your comment. For me, there are two reasons. 1) the tablesaw I have is just a jobsite saw. It's not built for supper accuracy. The thickness of miter track is not very consistent. I tried to use one runner adjustable miter gauge, it will become slightly loose when pushing the job near the middle. 2) also I used wood for the runner, the high and low humidity during different season really affects the accuracy if just using one runner. So I found in most of the cases, I need two runners to make small precise projects.
@@11111972cjb maybe they dont speak english? Maybe they want the video to cater to non english speakers. Honestly if you cant make the Jig he made by just looking, that means you are not a the level to even use that Jig. Probably be best to search for a easier one.
It's not a panel saw. It's a bog standard site saw, in other words cheap and well within the means of your average keen diy'er. However if you can't tell the difference I'd suggest you stay away from tools with moving parts
Sorry about that. English is not my first language, so i don't want to disturb anyone with my poor English. The original plan was from Fisher's Shop. Please check his video out, the link is in the description. The only difference is I just modified his plan to make the blade guide exchangeable, so I can change new one according to the new blade thickness.
@@victorhe7200 Don't worry, only bigots would be disturbed by someone making an attempt at another language! I love the template you made. Now to think of a way to do one for my freehand router or circular saw...
@@victorhe7200 since i grew up in SF bay area, most of my friends are Asian and many with accents. personally i think it helped me to understand many people with various accents. also probably made me more tolerate of ESL people. i actually perfer native English speakers to have complete subtitles on their videos ( i even use subs on all shows i watch). maybe just a person choice of mine. But my point is, have more verbal or non-verbal narration with your videos. i really like them and think this would only enhance them!
I know this is an older video, but while there are a lot of good box/finger joint sled designs out there, I really appreciate this one as it resolves two specific points in sled design that often can get overcomplicated. First, at 0:43, the way the back fence is set up makes it much less work to ensure that the fence is perpendicular to the saw kerf. Instead of having to mess with the 5 cut method etc. which can involve fine adjustments, this design relies on cutting the base of the sled square, and then works from there. Second, at 1:35, using sandpaper or shims in order to ensure that the miter bars are a snug fit before gluing also saves the time and frustration of having to trim a piece of wood several times to get that perfect fit.
As if I don’t spend enough time in the shop, then I see this and my mind is blown away. I don’t know if I can figure out how you did it, but I’m going to try. This is one of the best jigs I have seen. I went to Woodcraft today and I can’t give $200 for a jig. This design is worthy of awards.
ok dude ill buy that bloody table saw and start making jigs, this video is very inspiring thanks a lot
That's a really clever and yet straightforward solution to this problem.
That ply looks to be incredible quality, unlike the massively overpriced garbage we seem to get in the UK.
Don't worry. Here in Michigan, a sheet like that probably costs about $95...It's overpriced here too :(
I used to use low end smooth on both side 18mm plywood from Home Depot. It was far and away the highest quality at the cheapest price for this kind of thing. I used to pay about $35 a sheet. I just looked and it's about $45 a sheet now. The veneer is extremely thin but there are not a lot of voids I used it to make low end painted cabinets with it mostly. I never found another source of plywood suitable for cabinets any where near this cheap any place else. The next step us is a lot.
Browsing around for good videos and carpentry tips, this one made me watch till the end with the bolero music....
Cool. One set up for multiple size joints. I was just thinking of trying to come up with with a way to do this but you tackled it. Sweet!
This is a fantastic idea. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you very much for your time and video! Demonstrating is very good I like! You have a great time!
Nice job...I just got that table saw for Christmas and going to make that jig....thanks!
Good design. I like that there’s no counting turns or anything like that.
An idea I was searching for month! Thank you for showing
Hey super cool! I put some nuts on my track slides before gluing them up.worked great! Have to scrap them with a chisel though :(. But it’s a nice strong snug fit. Once I realized the back is a removable jig template I fell inlove with it lol. I’m gonna use this jig to make so many of my projects. I recently got back into wood working. Me and my dad have a wood working shop in his basement. I decided I wanna get into furniture building. Now I need to make a Mortise and tennon jig.
Gorgeous Joint ! I don’t think that I’d have enough focus for all of those (Jig) Steps
Awesome!!! Your camera is crazy clear!!!! 👍🏽
Great job, I have watched and made Fisher's version but i think yours is easier to follow. Wish I had seen it sooner.
Love your work. Nice jig you got there
I liked the project but I am too new at woodworking not to have some narration I got lost part way through, I might come back to you when I have more experience
Very cool.
I’m an old retired carpenter that already knows everything except for this . 😂😂
Very creative. great video.
Finally see a fellow TW wood worker on RUclips. Great work! Great Vid!
Thank you for your support. I am from Guangzhou , China.
@@victorhe7200 Oh sorry! Saw you use "Tradition Input". Bu it's still rare to see Chinese woodworker from North America on RUclips.
Great contents hope to see more soon !!
Nice josmb... and a different take on a traditional project !!
😎👍☘🍺
Очень хорошая идея, простая реализация. Мне понравилось.
I copied the design from fisher's shop and can confirm that it works well :) Nice build!
Yeah his plan works very well. I made the blade guide exchangeable instead of gluing it. So if I need to change the blades with different sizes, I just need to change that blade guide.
6:56 World’s Largest Mustache Comb! Majestic to behold. 😂 Great vid. Easy to follow along and recreate your process at home. Thank you for this helpful tutorial
I was thinking "Wow, now THAT'S a featherboard!" 🤣🤣🤣
Very good.Thanks a mil.
I've seen a couple of jigs that use a metal insert, but they need a very accurate set up to work (as I found when I tried it). This method using templates looks promising. The only tricky bit is getting the pin to match the kerf.
Richard Wiles, You are right. I just cut a few pins, see which is closest to the kerf (slightly thicker), then slowly sand it down. The good thing is, the whole jig doesn't need to be redone if the pin thickness or the pin position is not correct.
Brilliant.
Very good video, very informational
Thanks
Nice job. Make yourself a zero clearance insert for your saw. I have the same saw and I’ve had tiny pieces burst making cuts like those rails.
Muy buena guía y la música espectacular.
Awesome
Wow that is an awesome jig! I'd still go for a dado stack
They are illegal here in the UK
@@Gwynbuck It's a sad day in a nations history when wood working tools are outlawed. Do they have wood shop raids looking for saw blade contraband?
very nice! thank you for sharing.
A great quality video but boy does it need some narration there is so much I question as to sizes etc.There is no way i could do this with guess work as a beginner
I don't really get how to do the bigger fingers, do I need a router? I don't have one
.Nice.
Gostei muito excelente ideia para fazer junções, obrigado por compartilhar.
It's a fair bit of work to set up, but it's a nice jig to use. I'm thinking to make mine from aluminium for a bit more durability. Great idea though.
Thanks for sharing.
Maxx B yes an aluminum key would be better. I would worry about the wooden one breaking off.
Good one! But too bad dont understand the last part, can't really see the back.
Very good. Muito bom. Good work
Nice Jig...Wrong blade for finger/box joints. A flat-top blade will get rid of the "cat ears" on the joint.
When I started single blade finger jointing, I found that I was using the wrong type of blade which resulted in voids being formed at the bottom of the cut. I eventually found that the correct blade had to have the cutting edge at 90 degrees to the blade plate which then forms a proper cut without the need to apply excessive glue to fill these unsightly voids.
You put the j back into ig, my fine work there son
nice useful jig!
Nice!
Awesome!
Brilliant
Great video, one question i have for making this myself: Is there is set space in between the 'tooth' on the rear and the cutline of the sawblade.
With todays lumber prices it would be cheaper to buy a dado stack sadly
Ultra awesome;-)
不错 well done
Victor, Are you able to post your plan for this jig? Jeff Fisher removed his original plan.
Thanks, Wayne
Hi Wayne, sorry to say I didn't save my handdrawing plan for this project.
Hey I love this jig. I am struggling with one thing however. When I go to make my initial cut on the piece that will be jointed, I don't know how to set it up so that the two pieces will match. Does that make sense? Basically I dont know how far to set my first pass off of the edge of the blade
I am sorry I didn't make the video clearly. I just recorded the way I made the jig. The original plan was from Fisher's Shop. I modified his plan to make the blade guide changeable if we need to change blades with different thickness. For you easier to understand how to cut, you can go to his original video ruclips.net/video/5v1QYKWgTvs/видео.html. He explained clearly how to cut.
If you do a lot of box or finger joints, you should look in to a blade with flat teeth, especially for the 1/8" fingers so you don't get that little peak in the middle of the joints. Instead you get a nice flat surface and the joints look clean.
You are right. Flat teeth blade is the best for finger joints.
I mean granted I can learn alot just from watching but some commentary would be nice some context so I dont have to keep analyzing every step you take over and over so I don't miss anything
Did you ever think he may not speak english ? 🙄
Or, God forbid, he can't talk at all.?? 😒
If you can't figure it out after watching the video, you're not going to grasp it with a few words thrown in... some folks just want to be effing spoon-fed 🙄😂😂😂
If he speaks English but left that out then he may have done so to allow the watcher to choose his or her own size box joints. Makes perfect sense.
hi, very nice jig, I would like to make one but the original plans from Fisher's Shop has been deleted because he made a different jig and I rather like your model, (so is it possible to have the dimensions ) thank you
Just brilliant
why not make a video on how to make a box joint jig?
How about a voice over? Much appreciated.
Why didn't you just use the router table to make the half inch box joints with a sled set up on the router table similar to the table saw.?
La chronologie des phases de travail n'est pas claire mais le résultat est correct
Bem feito o gabarito.
- GOOD job & I love the music. Who is it ???
Hello sir
Thank you for this very beautiful video
I am French, and I would like to know what is the reference of your saw blade because I think that this blade looks to be incredible quality.
Thank you very much for answering me
I love Diablo blades, very durable and top quality for me. I was using Diabo 60-tooth thin kerf blade. For the best result of box finger joint, you may look for Flat Teeth blade. If it's too expensive, non flat teeth is fine too.
@@victorhe7200 Thank you very much for your answer
Hi Victor....Great Video and very inspiring indeed! Victor, I'd like to buy the miter/track that you use in this video, can you please let me know the make or model number, as I too have a Dewalt Table saw and I like that this miter has a long miter track that fits well into the Dewalt saw. Did you buy the track and the miter separately or do they come together. Thanks in advance for your response.
Julian Pereira, thank you for your support. The miter gauge is Kreg Precision Miter Gauge System. It comes with a fence. Model number should be KMS7102. The downside of this system is that the fence is too heavy and long for Dewalt's table. It's easy to tilt off the side when we push forward. And this was one of the reason I built an extension on the side for my table saw later on. If you want to find another one to compare, you may check out this guy's review. ruclips.net/video/0zMnY3ZKsZI/видео.html .
Also, your comments would be more readable in black.
👌👌👌
Rube Goldberg would be proud of you..
rude!
Seems like you made great finger joints with the miter gauge you used for the template? Why build this complicated jig?
Just my $0.02, when he was making the template, he was using a long piece of stock making it easier to hold against the miter gauge for each cut. When you're making the cuts on a work piece, usually it's much taller and more narrow which means either fingers closer to the blade or clamping/un-clamping after each cut.
With a jig and template, you clamp the work piece to the template and your fingers are much further from the danger zone, and you can quickly go from one cut to the next. This gives you a safer process for lots of repeated cuts that is just as fast as moving the work piece down the gauge.
👏👏👏
maybe Im missing something, but if the point is to make box joints, and you used the Router table to make the box joint template in the desired size, isn't the table saw jig redundant?
Nice job got lost early
Is a ripping blade with flat teeth used?
Dave, flat teeth blades are highly recommended. If you can't access to flat teeth blades, general blades are ok too.
@@victorhe7200 Thank you very much for the response. I'm going to take a shot at making a box jointed box. It will be small and I think I'm going to go with the simplest jig and a 1/8 inch kerf blade with flat teeth but I had been thinking of using my current cross cut blade but now I think I'll spring for a ripping blade probably a cheap one.
One thing that I liked about your video was that you used the same saw I have. I had trouble with a sled I built using metal rails getting it to slide freely and the miter gauge the saw comes with wobbles too much for precision work (I put tape around it as a kludge). I think I'm going to follow exactly your procedure for making the sled.
I've also thought about getting a small dado stack for my saw instead. I know DeWalt recommends against it but I think I might be able to use up to a 1/4 inch thick safely.
I liked it but some of it was confusing due to camera angle. I'm just a rookie, need all the help I can get! BE SAFE,GOD BLESS!🇺🇸🙏❤
Quel est la marque pour ton guide à onglet que tu utilises avec le banc de scie dewalt ?
Kreg KMS7102
The precision is ok for dewalt table saw ???
The precision is good. But keep in mind one thing, because the Kreg is 24 inches long, and the Dewalt jobsite table saw is not very wide, it's easy to tile off side, it's best to use with an extension platform on the side like what I built. But without the extension, it is still usable.
I am 62......still haven't made any type of joint. Why so difficult ? ..or maybe I am the slow
I had no idea of how this jig was going to work so most of the video made little sense.
I had to flick over to near the end to see what it was and how it functioned.
So, if you want to be a successful RUclipsr:
1. Show finished device and explain how it works
2. THEN show how it was constructed accompanied with explanatory voiceover.
John Walker, sorry about that. and thank you for your suggestion!
👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏
While you put alot of effort into showing the build, your silent presentation and clipped shots left too many holes to understand "how to".
DrReason - totally agree...
The biggest problem looking at this video is that you basically see nothing that you are doing .your cuts in the wood how you move it above. If you place your video regarding over your saw there would be a great way to see and not always trying to figure out what you doing next....
What if you don't own a router? then how do you produce the 1/4" , 3/8", 1/2" & 3/4" box joint jigs? this just not a 2 jig fixture? as commented by Fisher's shop.
This jig is for using table saw to make the box joints only. But we need to find a way to make the joint template to put on the jig. The easiest way is to use router. If you can't access to router or different sizes of router bit, you may need to look for another jig design.
I might point out that ONLY the laying out and cutting for an initial template for each size of joint you want is needed... Even that this was modified from Fisher's to allow interchangeable blades with different widths, it still compensates for the width of blade on hand... and then all you really NEED is laying out for 1/4 or 3/8 inch ...etc...
Without a router, the templates are still cut-able on a table-saw... pretty close to the way he demonstrated with his second template...
AND the "easy" way to start would be by laying down some masking tape and marking out from the blade in desired increments... {from your specific list, I'd just go with 1/8" steps}...
Everything else, you already have listed by dimensions in Fisher's design spec's... SO laying the tape out just far enough from the back-wall of the jig-box, you can see the steps and line up fairly quickly for template builds on your own... It's advisable to go ahead and pencil in some marks across the "top" of the new template, so you can be sure of waste-areas... and you might still prefer (as some of us do) to clean all that waste with a chisel and file... BUT... once a template's made... it's made, and you can build your collection either "preemptively" OR "as you go" reducing space and resource concerns for when and however often you might need a specific size of finger or box-joint.
Finally, remember this is a convenience. It's NOT a required piece of gear for your shop to accomplish joinery at all. No matter how cleverly we create conveniences in our shops, there's just NO replacement for the skills to do this stuff on your own. ;o)
Uniones madera
How come the wood-glue in American youtube tutorials always look like a bottle of mayonaise?
The wood glue I am using, it's Titebond, it's very common in US. As they claim, it's FDA approved for indirect food contact; after drying, the bonding is stronger and the wood; also drillable, moisture resistant, sandable, solvent resistant, UV/sunlight resistant.
Sorry. It may be me, but I fiund your video very hard to follow.
so the fence moved
Sigue presumiendo tu cierra comprada
I've watched so many cross cutting sled videos and have always wondered why TWO runners? Each and every miter gage has exactly ONE runner. Seems like asking for over-constraint.
Wihelm Taylor, thank you for your comment. For me, there are two reasons.
1) the tablesaw I have is just a jobsite saw. It's not built for supper accuracy. The thickness of miter track is not very consistent. I tried to use one runner adjustable miter gauge, it will become slightly loose when pushing the job near the middle.
2) also I used wood for the runner, the high and low humidity during different season really affects the accuracy if just using one runner.
So I found in most of the cases, I need two runners to make small precise projects.
@@victorhe7200 → Thanks, Victor. Not much humidity to worry about here in Boulder, CO.
FYI....How to videos with music playing instead of voice over explaining the steps, I turn off straight away!
Me too. Why do they do that?
Dave Robinson totally agree
@@11111972cjb maybe they dont speak english? Maybe they want the video to cater to non english speakers. Honestly if you cant make the Jig he made by just looking, that means you are not a the level to even use that Jig. Probably be best to search for a easier one.
Не хороший человек, всё делает молчком, плохо о ком то думает.
You managed to complicate a simple process.
Labour intensive.
get a job
I like all these vids however, it's of no real use to the average keen DIY who does not posses a panel saw.
Sliding mitre saw? Table saw? Track saw? Circular saw and guide? Any of those would do the job.
It's not a panel saw. It's a bog standard site saw, in other words cheap and well within the means of your average keen diy'er. However if you can't tell the difference I'd suggest you stay away from tools with moving parts
Knowing what I already know about making finger joints, this video was basically worthless without audio instructions explaining what you're doing.
Why is it that people don’t talk when making jigs for different reasons. Shit tell jokes, read a news story
I had to dislike this video because you didn’t say anything.
Sorry about that. English is not my first language, so i don't want to disturb anyone with my poor English. The original plan was from Fisher's Shop. Please check his video out, the link is in the description. The only difference is I just modified his plan to make the blade guide exchangeable, so I can change new one according to the new blade thickness.
@@victorhe7200 Don't worry, only bigots would be disturbed by someone making an attempt at another language! I love the template you made. Now to think of a way to do one for my freehand router or circular saw...
@@victorhe7200 since i grew up in SF bay area, most of my friends are Asian and many with accents. personally i think it helped me to understand many people with various accents. also probably made me more tolerate of ESL people. i actually perfer native English speakers to have complete subtitles on their videos ( i even use subs on all shows i watch). maybe just a person choice of mine. But my point is, have more verbal or non-verbal narration with your videos. i really like them and think this would only enhance them!
This was hard to watch. Get to it. Almost 2 min to glue runners on a scrap piece of ply.